Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/31/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Today, I moved the car into the driveway to finally remove the engine. Had to move the other Buick out of the way.Looking foward to this new phase.
  2. 4 points
    Headlight Bucket -- Before and After
  3. 4 points
    My inspiration? First of all, I'm an automotive engineer. Which does no means that I cannot have two left hand. But, from youth, I had the ability to do something with my hands. Further, before I went to the engineer school, I worked for two years in a body shop. When I left that shop, I did not think a lot about it. But, in the long term, it was a fantastic schooling.
  4. 3 points
    The right way, the wrong way, and the Army way... This is from an Army tech manual (TM 1-1500-204-23-6) on General Aircraft Maintenance.
  5. 3 points
    Try a pair of 6V Optimas wired in parallel, borrow a pair to see if they improve your situation. (If you have any local Pierce guys, they'll be a convenient source.) The Optimas will spin Pierce 8s and 12s VERY fast, although the primary reason I run pairs in my three 8-cyl Pierces is for Reserve Capacity (RC) for long runs with lights on given 25 amp generators that fall to 17 amps once the temp regulator kicks in after 8-10 minutes. A pair of Optimas fits easily into a Group 3 battery box and maybe a generous sized Group 2. For judging, there is a vendor selling a mock standard battery case into which one fits the two Optimas. From their website, dimensions of EACH Optima red-top 6V starting battery is 10" long x 3.55" wide x 7.81" tall. Further, I never put a float charger on them--they will hold enough charge for 5-6 months to start in the spring. The fast starter spin is an added benefit for me, but may be the solution to your problem. I've been using Optimas exclusively for over 20 years. They last a very long time, there is no need to fill or check electrolyte level, and the terminals don't corrode--ideal for underseat / underfloor battery locations. I have no affiliation with them, just a delighted customer.
  6. 3 points
    Wow so many beautiful mascots and badges. Here is one that I know for certain is 'One of a Kind' because I made it. Enjoy!
  7. 3 points
  8. 2 points
    https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/buick/riviera/2311443.html
  9. 2 points
    Which happens to be a Wix 42043.
  10. 2 points
    First off Chrysler did not ever make a 55 amp alternator. Standard without AC was 37 amp or 46 amp with AC for your application. They did not make a 60 amp until 1969. If you are still using your stock mechanical regulator with a mismatched alternator you will have problems. A mechanical regulator can only handle 2-3 amps of field current. Where a 60 amp is 4-6 and requires an electronic regulator. I know those numbers sound small but they mean a world of difference. Consumers have been asking for more amperage forever and suppliers do not always care about consequences as long as they are making money. They will just send it back to their supplier as defective. All of that aside when you are checking your charging system with the issue you are having. With your voltmeter at either the battery or alternator reads steady while your dash ampmeter is going up with rpms and you have no electrical items running other then ignition you need to charge your battery. Voltage holding but amperage climbing tells me something needs power and the alternator is supplying it. And if you have no electrical items such as lights then the only thing that could be asking for power is the battery. If you want to keep your amperage from running high you need to charge the battery separately. Best way to determine if your battery is fully charged is to connect it to a charger along with your voltmeter. Using the lowest possible amperage setting start the charger while singing the happy birthday song. If your battery is fully charged to begin with your voltmeter will get to 14.5 before you finish the song. If it does not then it was not fully charged and should go until the voltmeter does read 14.5. If under the same conditions your voltage and amperage both climb excessively high with rpms you could be in a full field mode and I would check your field wire to make sure it is not melted to your power output wire or to any other wire that is powered. Or you have damaged your regulator by using it with a mismatched alternator.
  11. 2 points
    Wix has a filter lookup by dimension function on their website. Wix 42043 is 3.5" tall and 12.80" OD. Used on a wide variety of Chrysler products from the 1960s. $6.92 each at Rockauto.
  12. 2 points
    Second car looks to be a 1938 Nash.
  13. 2 points
    All of the assets should belong to the widow now. The children can wait for her estate. One old car, 5,000 bucks. Any Forum members should be planning for this kind of event. Don't leave your family in the dark. If you are lucky the estate is worth a lot more than the car or cars. My wife knows who my good friends are. I told her if any of them really want one of my cars just give it to them, tools too. Of course, that reckless attitude promotes a longer life.
  14. 2 points
    Just Dashes will recover yours. Beautiful work and expensive
  15. 2 points
    Finally, Labor Day weekend! What better way to celebrate than...to labor. Productive 1 1/2 days so far. First, when and saw my engine at the shop. Just a bare metal block at this point. Also dumped off all my engine parts (Photo 1). The shop will start inventory and get the block powder coated and start on the work soon (hopefully). The other owner is very communicative and appears to have taken over the communication part from the other owner, so that makes me feel better about things getting done and me hearing about it. Got my windscreen apart, but still have some hardware to remove before it's ready for chrome plating (Photo 2). Had to heat up most of the interior metal with a propane torch to get some of the brass screws out. Some of them just broke off at the top when I tried to remove them. Will be a lot of work to get them all out, mostly will have to drill them out. Finished minor pin hole repair and did some more grinding and got the driver's side inner rocker roughed in (Photo 3). Fits well overall. Will need a lot of metal work at the base of the door pillars, but should be able to save most of what there after I remove the rust. Will probably have to make a few very small patch panels after the fact. The goal will be to get both the inner and outer rockers welded in this weekend.
  16. 2 points
    I don't care for the continental kit, but that's just my own personal taste.
  17. 2 points
    I think it looked more authentic with the mud. (Really nice work Neil)
  18. 2 points
    Yesterday, I used a 6" I beam to correct my bent front axle. First, I removed the steering damper and attached the I beam to the straight side of the axle with 2x4 blocks and two ratchet straps. Then, I used a larger ratchet strap to pull the axle back into alignment. By leaving the axle mounted in the car, the tendency of the round axle to rotate was eliminated. The I beam actually started to bend with full tension on the larger ratchet strap. This project took almost all day since I had to remove my electric hoist and dismantle my jib hoist to use the I beam swing arm. Today I will test drive the car without the steering damper to see if this process corrected the death wobble. Stay tuned.... Well, it did the trick. I just finished a test drive without the steering damper and there was no death wobble at all. I didn't mention it earlier, but I added two table spoons of fine flake graphite to the transmission oil. So now it really shifts easily with no double clutching required. I previously had real shifting problems until I learned how to shift it from a fellow HCCA member on it's first tour. Owners need to speed shift this particular model Buick rather than double clutch or wait for the gears to mesh. This car now drives and shifts better than ever.
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Don't know for what car, but I think it's a lower radiator apron with crank hole. Upside down.
  21. 2 points
    The I took the DB on a short test drive this afternoon and I have to say within 10 seconds of driving off I could feel a vast improvement. Where it used to vibrate a lot in second in the higher revs there is nothing to speak of now. In 3rd gear cruising along it is the same story. When decelerating from speed before there was a big vibration now it is smooth as silk. The engine even seems to have more acceleration now. Next job is to make a new foot brake mount as the old mounting point had to make way for the new rubber engine mount. Testing with just the hand brake is scary but I couldn’t wait any longer. I also fitted a flexible exhaust joiner under the front floor board so the header could move and not affect the rest of the solid mounted system.
  22. 2 points
    I agree and would also add that it also incorporates a "reserve" as indicated by the extended tube. If you look closely you might be able to see the notations "On", "Off" and "Res" for reserve around the valve handle.
  23. 2 points
    Because as engine speed increases, so does generator output. Generators don't make much electricity at idle, hence the 0 reading. As you speed up, it makes more electricity and shows a higher rate of charge. Eventually, it will stay at 0 most of the time because the battery is fully charged. If it's showing a discharge as engine speed increases, you may have the wires on the back of the gauge reversed. Check the battery with a voltmeter and you should see voltage go up as engine speed increases as well.
  24. 2 points
    Very good information. So it seems the root of the problem is the high compression not excess friction. Do you know how high the compression ratio is? Have you done a compression test? It doesn't seem reasonable that you could raise it so high the starter won't turn the engine over. Maybe it turns over, but not fast enough? 6 volt cars used to turn slow. One like yours, might only turn as fast as a man could hand crank it. This did not prevent starting, if the timing was late enough and everything else working right. I see your engine has a very long intake pipe. This can't be good for starting, do you have to prime the cylinders when it is cold? As a last resort there are special 12v-6v batteries available that start on 12v and switch to 6v for running. Basically a divided battery with Ford starter relays to switch connections. You could do something similar with your 2 6v batteries.
  25. 2 points
    The script “National” on the hub cap wrapper is the give away. National was a manufacturer of aftermarket hubcaps. This set might fit a DeSoto but they are not originals. The originals would be in a MoPar bag wrapper.
  26. 2 points
    Yes, you win the prize for the id on the bottom item. Motorcycle petcock.
  27. 2 points
    I believe thats a ballast resistor, probably for a Ford product, probably from 1956-1960 or so.
  28. 2 points
    With the inlet side of the pump in place I drilled a center hole. Then went through with a 3/4" drill. And set up the boring head. Bored out to 1-1/4" The last step was to mill a flat. I've discovered I have a fitment problem I will have to give some thought to so I'll be making more drawings tonight. Tomorrow I may made the threading gauge I need and thread the outlet tube.
  29. 2 points
    To me a mascot is fitted to an exposed radiator car. A hood ornament attaches to a hood on a later 1930's to current automobile. Bob
  30. 2 points
    Looks like a windshield washer squirter to me. Just a guess.
  31. 2 points
    Yes, the flywheel is rather large and Fred isn't. He is well over 4-feet, however! Phil
  32. 2 points
    Howdy – my name is Bill Newland. I live just outside of Fort Worth Texas. I have been working on old cars since I was 14, was an aircraft ground support equipment mechanic in the Navy, went to school to become a mechanical engineer, worked for a diesel engine powered equipment company and then a helicopter company, and am now retired. Since my wife and I acquired our 1955 Buick Roadmaster Convertible about three weeks ago, I have been lurking on the technical forum. In fact, I perused all 274 pages and copied the links which were of particular interest to a file. A wealth of valuable information here, thanks to The Buick Man, Old-Tank, NTX5467, Bhigdog, Mr Earl, and many others. Our “new” 55 does have some issues, and I will be asking questions on the Tech forum. I have other classic and antique cars – a 1929 Model A Roadster (AACA Senior Award), a 1956 Ford Victoria (a “high end driver”), a 1930 Model A Town Sedan (almost finished), a 1956 Chevrolet 2 door sedan (85% done), and a 1955 Buick Special (needs total restoration except for the engine which was rebuilt). We plan to sell all of these in order to pay for the 55 Roadmaster Convertible and reduce the car population around here. The previous owner of our 55 Convertible also resides in North Texas and was a BCA member I believe, so others from this area may recognize it.
  33. 2 points
    I’m 16. I daily drive my 71 Riviera rain or shine. Drive it to high school, xc, even 100 mile trips, no problem. Only use the parents cars once every blue moon if I have to drive deep downtown where the roads are as thin as smart cars (boats don’t fit lol)
  34. 1 point
    Brakelight trouble is gonna be the turn signal switch. Wiggle the handle. It probably works part of the time.
  35. 1 point
    We took the Limited on a long tour in southern Ontario, Canada last week and it performed flawlessly. About 750 miles, much of which was the 300 mile drive each way to the north side of Lake Erie. The big guy hammered along at 60 MPH without incident and seemed to pull down about 14 MPG. I can't complain about anything, it was as close to a flawless trip as you can get. I fussed with the tuning a bit simply because it was surging at low speeds (trundling along behind a Model T) but I think my vacuum advance is borked, so I've put that on the To Do list, along with a valve adjustment, which I've never done on this car. But aside from one morning when it was fairly hard to start (which might have been operator error--I pumped when I shouldn't have) the car drove beautifully and blasted home in the dark in absolute comfort. What a great car! The one thing that did go wrong is that I lost my left front turn signal bulb (or thought I did) on the way home. I initially thought all my signals were buggered, but no, just the left front. Just a bulb, no big deal. I took it apart today and found some pretty hacky wiring with parts store butt connectors, one of which had come apart, which is why the signal wasn't working. Bah. So I fixed that with a new butt connector, soldered the joint, and sealed it with some shrink wrap. Then I installed a fresh 1154 bulb (I damaged the original because it was pretty well stuck in the socket) using some dielectric grease and put it back together.I also cleaned things up a bit in there just because that's what I do. I think I'll add new wiring for the headlights and signals to my To Do list this winter. I saw the great work my friend Neil is doing on his Super and these are easy circuits to fix properly since they connect under the hood. At least everything's working correctly for now. I also put some rubber seals on the fender skirts, which, until now, had just been bare metal rubbing on the fenders. I pulled the skirts to clean the wheels after the tour and saw that the bare skirts were really doing a hell of a number on the fender paint. Ugh. So I touched up the fenders then installed some generic weather stripping from Home Depot just to keep it from rubbing. I have the correct stuff on order, so I'll show you how that goes next week rather than waste time with this temporary solution.
  36. 1 point
    Looks like speedster material to me.
  37. 1 point
    Look at at a filter element for a 1965 361-2v (and probably 383-2v and a bunch of other various years). I recognize that housing. It was probably black with a yellow sticker on the side of it when it left Detroit.
  38. 1 point
    Good stuff John. You would think it’s not the same car it was a week ago hey!! The difference is huge isn’t it. How did you go with the front mount? its definitely worth the effort.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    That is the way that I have always installed cotter keys. The "wrong" way never seemed right to me.
  41. 1 point
    My other three driver-Kissels being readied for show next weekend. Nothing to do with this post except that these are very rare Kissel Kars also. ron
  42. 1 point
    I think thats a fuel shutoff for some sort of motorcycle.
  43. 1 point
    It's an ignition? resistor I believe. Something in the back of my head keeps saying mid 50's Ford but I haven't had one of those in a few years and can't remember quite what they look like.
  44. 1 point
    And now our grandson, a college Senior majoring in Music Performance (Trumpet - of course!) is using several of my horns, especially the Bach which Vincent Bach personally designed for me back in 1954. His University's Wind Symphony is recently back from their invitational to perform in a series of concerts at Bunol, west of Valencia, Spain.
  45. 1 point
    I somehow ended up collecting stringed instruments but only have a few after I learned/ still learning how to play the Guitar. (one has to love some of the things you can learn from Youtube) I only buy stuff totally different than what I have though. Latest purchase was a tricone Resonator, unfortunately not a real National but a good copy. Hard to convince the wife that spending $3,000 on a Guitar is a good idea for someone that isn't a Musician. I will say even an untrained ear can tell the difference between the cheap $100 Chinese Guitar a friend sold me, that I started learning on, and the very nice Gibson Acoustic A friend turned me on to that was donated to a church sale by a wealthy family that I purchased from them. One strum across the strings and wow. Night and day. I have a 12 sting , A Banjo , Mandolin, Of course a run of the mill Epiphone Electric, an Acoustic electric, That new Resonator, my Mom's Broken Acoustic that came to me that way, a wall hanger hollow body arch top electric from the 50's and a couple nothing special Acoustics that I can let the kids bang around on though they show no interest. The wife pretty much hates Music in general and never listens when I ask her to so not much of an audience to play for. Kind of a Bummer when you enjoy playing. I play all genres as well though tend to play oldies and Country most. Funny thing is I often play the Cheap electric Epiphone more than anything else. It stays in tune nice, I can really turn the amp down when I'm playing at 1AM in my office and it really plays nice. Not bad for a Guitar I bought at a garage sale from a Neighbor for $200, which was the money I just got from selling a friend a few nothing special signs. He was only selling a few from his collection and it was exactly what I was looking for at the time. I imagine I will add a few more over the years but boy they really have to speak to me. The wife should really appreciate that, after walking by probably a couple hundred at an antique sale a few weeks ago and some that seemed like very good buys. I know alot of guys with alot of money invested in their guitars and they to are not professional musicians. I would still like to try a Martin some day. I've heard they are really nice.
  46. 1 point
    First generation Riv - next generation driver...
  47. 1 point
    They must have used both versions depending on factory or availability. My 55 Century convertible and 55 Special (46R) parts car had the elongated version.
  48. 1 point
    No car movie list is complete without: The movie itself is just meh but there are 15 minutes right in the middle that'll really get your heart racing. And it's always neat to see all kinds of '50s and '60s cars in the background just being normal, everyday cars. (Watch for the hit man's driver buckling his seat belt--things are about to get very serious.)
  49. 1 point
    Made it to Detroit without incident. Man, that wagon is just a pleasure to drive. Cruised along effortlessly at 70 MPH without much noise. Stayed cool under the hood and in the car--fairly amazing air management, in fact. Not windy at all with all the windows open but plenty of fresh air. And the ride is unbelievable! Melanie drives the car a lot but I'll admit I don't have much seat time (and still don't; she drove all the way today); this thing just hovers over bumps and broken pavement. No squeaks, no rattles, no shaky structure, suspension is supple and very little impact harshness. I am extremely impressed by this inexpensive yet incredibly well-maintained and well-built Chrysler. Maybe you guys don't understand why this is miraculous. I grew up with old cars that would break every time you touched them. My father refused to go more than 3 or 4 miles from home because he knew he'd be walking as often as not. Each outing was an exercise in terror for me as a little kid, as I didn't know if I would have a fun day with my dad or if my dad would turn into a monster and abandon the broken old car (and sometimes me) at the side of the road. Having cars that work properly, ride nicely, and are reliable is nothing short of a miracle to me. After 15 years of having my own cars that are reliable, you'd think I'd get over it, but I don't think I ever will. That wagon just drove beautifully. The show is tomorrow and there are plenty of Mopars in the parking lot. Dark clouds rolling in, but hopefully tomorrow is clear for the show. I'll have more then. Excited to be here! From the passenger's seat on the Ohio Turnpike: Effortless cruising (yeah, the gas gauge is broken, no worries!): Riley and Cody head back to the car after lunch:
  50. 1 point
    The RH door panel is done; before I'm looking for the quarter panels, I did some details at the dash board: both small round lamps (I had an inquiry to make them functional but I decided the added value v/s added work is so marginal that it makes no sense). Ralph Nader would not appreciate the way I did the lock for the glove box with the shaft protruding that way! Don't worry, this is just to be attached to the chrome's tree. Once the part will be chromed, the shaft will be cut! The "ribbed" plate under the heat and A/C controls was also added as well as the grille for the speaker. The pitch for the "holes" is coarser as it should but I have the impression it's a good compromise as I had to have a visual difference between the lower plate and the grille. Once plated, the indentations will get some black paint, creating the illusion of holes.