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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/31/2019 in all areas

  1. Today, I moved the car into the driveway to finally remove the engine. Had to move the other Buick out of the way.Looking foward to this new phase.
    5 points
  2. Headlight Bucket -- Before and After
    4 points
  3. My inspiration? First of all, I'm an automotive engineer. Which does no means that I cannot have two left hand. But, from youth, I had the ability to do something with my hands. Further, before I went to the engineer school, I worked for two years in a body shop. When I left that shop, I did not think a lot about it. But, in the long term, it was a fantastic schooling.
    4 points
  4. The right way, the wrong way, and the Army way... This is from an Army tech manual (TM 1-1500-204-23-6) on General Aircraft Maintenance.
    3 points
  5. Try a pair of 6V Optimas wired in parallel, borrow a pair to see if they improve your situation. (If you have any local Pierce guys, they'll be a convenient source.) The Optimas will spin Pierce 8s and 12s VERY fast, although the primary reason I run pairs in my three 8-cyl Pierces is for Reserve Capacity (RC) for long runs with lights on given 25 amp generators that fall to 17 amps once the temp regulator kicks in after 8-10 minutes. A pair of Optimas fits easily into a Group 3 battery box and maybe a generous sized Group 2. For judging, there is a vendor selling a mock standard battery case into which one fits the two Optimas. From their website, dimensions of EACH Optima red-top 6V starting battery is 10" long x 3.55" wide x 7.81" tall. Further, I never put a float charger on them--they will hold enough charge for 5-6 months to start in the spring. The fast starter spin is an added benefit for me, but may be the solution to your problem. I've been using Optimas exclusively for over 20 years. They last a very long time, there is no need to fill or check electrolyte level, and the terminals don't corrode--ideal for underseat / underfloor battery locations. I have no affiliation with them, just a delighted customer.
    3 points
  6. Wow so many beautiful mascots and badges. Here is one that I know for certain is 'One of a Kind' because I made it. Enjoy!
    3 points
  7. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/buick/riviera/2311443.html
    2 points
  8. Which happens to be a Wix 42043.
    2 points
  9. First off Chrysler did not ever make a 55 amp alternator. Standard without AC was 37 amp or 46 amp with AC for your application. They did not make a 60 amp until 1969. If you are still using your stock mechanical regulator with a mismatched alternator you will have problems. A mechanical regulator can only handle 2-3 amps of field current. Where a 60 amp is 4-6 and requires an electronic regulator. I know those numbers sound small but they mean a world of difference. Consumers have been asking for more amperage forever and suppliers do not always care about consequences as long as they are making money. They will just send it back to their supplier as defective. All of that aside when you are checking your charging system with the issue you are having. With your voltmeter at either the battery or alternator reads steady while your dash ampmeter is going up with rpms and you have no electrical items running other then ignition you need to charge your battery. Voltage holding but amperage climbing tells me something needs power and the alternator is supplying it. And if you have no electrical items such as lights then the only thing that could be asking for power is the battery. If you want to keep your amperage from running high you need to charge the battery separately. Best way to determine if your battery is fully charged is to connect it to a charger along with your voltmeter. Using the lowest possible amperage setting start the charger while singing the happy birthday song. If your battery is fully charged to begin with your voltmeter will get to 14.5 before you finish the song. If it does not then it was not fully charged and should go until the voltmeter does read 14.5. If under the same conditions your voltage and amperage both climb excessively high with rpms you could be in a full field mode and I would check your field wire to make sure it is not melted to your power output wire or to any other wire that is powered. Or you have damaged your regulator by using it with a mismatched alternator.
    2 points
  10. Wix has a filter lookup by dimension function on their website. Wix 42043 is 3.5" tall and 12.80" OD. Used on a wide variety of Chrysler products from the 1960s. $6.92 each at Rockauto.
    2 points
  11. Second car looks to be a 1938 Nash.
    2 points
  12. All of the assets should belong to the widow now. The children can wait for her estate. One old car, 5,000 bucks. Any Forum members should be planning for this kind of event. Don't leave your family in the dark. If you are lucky the estate is worth a lot more than the car or cars. My wife knows who my good friends are. I told her if any of them really want one of my cars just give it to them, tools too. Of course, that reckless attitude promotes a longer life.
    2 points
  13. Just Dashes will recover yours. Beautiful work and expensive
    2 points
  14. Finally, Labor Day weekend! What better way to celebrate than...to labor. Productive 1 1/2 days so far. First, when and saw my engine at the shop. Just a bare metal block at this point. Also dumped off all my engine parts (Photo 1). The shop will start inventory and get the block powder coated and start on the work soon (hopefully). The other owner is very communicative and appears to have taken over the communication part from the other owner, so that makes me feel better about things getting done and me hearing about it. Got my windscreen apart, but still have some hardware to remove before it's ready for chrome plating (Photo 2). Had to heat up most of the interior metal with a propane torch to get some of the brass screws out. Some of them just broke off at the top when I tried to remove them. Will be a lot of work to get them all out, mostly will have to drill them out. Finished minor pin hole repair and did some more grinding and got the driver's side inner rocker roughed in (Photo 3). Fits well overall. Will need a lot of metal work at the base of the door pillars, but should be able to save most of what there after I remove the rust. Will probably have to make a few very small patch panels after the fact. The goal will be to get both the inner and outer rockers welded in this weekend.
    2 points
  15. I don't care for the continental kit, but that's just my own personal taste.
    2 points
  16. I think it looked more authentic with the mud. (Really nice work Neil)
    2 points
  17. Yesterday, I used a 6" I beam to correct my bent front axle. First, I removed the steering damper and attached the I beam to the straight side of the axle with 2x4 blocks and two ratchet straps. Then, I used a larger ratchet strap to pull the axle back into alignment. By leaving the axle mounted in the car, the tendency of the round axle to rotate was eliminated. The I beam actually started to bend with full tension on the larger ratchet strap. This project took almost all day since I had to remove my electric hoist and dismantle my jib hoist to use the I beam swing arm. Today I will test drive the car without the steering damper to see if this process corrected the death wobble. Stay tuned.... Well, it did the trick. I just finished a test drive without the steering damper and there was no death wobble at all. I didn't mention it earlier, but I added two table spoons of fine flake graphite to the transmission oil. So now it really shifts easily with no double clutching required. I previously had real shifting problems until I learned how to shift it from a fellow HCCA member on it's first tour. Owners need to speed shift this particular model Buick rather than double clutch or wait for the gears to mesh. This car now drives and shifts better than ever.
    2 points
  18. Don't know for what car, but I think it's a lower radiator apron with crank hole. Upside down.
    2 points
  19. The I took the DB on a short test drive this afternoon and I have to say within 10 seconds of driving off I could feel a vast improvement. Where it used to vibrate a lot in second in the higher revs there is nothing to speak of now. In 3rd gear cruising along it is the same story. When decelerating from speed before there was a big vibration now it is smooth as silk. The engine even seems to have more acceleration now. Next job is to make a new foot brake mount as the old mounting point had to make way for the new rubber engine mount. Testing with just the hand brake is scary but I couldn’t wait any longer. I also fitted a flexible exhaust joiner under the front floor board so the header could move and not affect the rest of the solid mounted system.
    2 points
  20. I agree and would also add that it also incorporates a "reserve" as indicated by the extended tube. If you look closely you might be able to see the notations "On", "Off" and "Res" for reserve around the valve handle.
    2 points
  21. Because as engine speed increases, so does generator output. Generators don't make much electricity at idle, hence the 0 reading. As you speed up, it makes more electricity and shows a higher rate of charge. Eventually, it will stay at 0 most of the time because the battery is fully charged. If it's showing a discharge as engine speed increases, you may have the wires on the back of the gauge reversed. Check the battery with a voltmeter and you should see voltage go up as engine speed increases as well.
    2 points
  22. Yes, you win the prize for the id on the bottom item. Motorcycle petcock.
    2 points
  23. I believe thats a ballast resistor, probably for a Ford product, probably from 1956-1960 or so.
    2 points
  24. With the inlet side of the pump in place I drilled a center hole. Then went through with a 3/4" drill. And set up the boring head. Bored out to 1-1/4" The last step was to mill a flat. I've discovered I have a fitment problem I will have to give some thought to so I'll be making more drawings tonight. Tomorrow I may made the threading gauge I need and thread the outlet tube.
    2 points
  25. To me a mascot is fitted to an exposed radiator car. A hood ornament attaches to a hood on a later 1930's to current automobile. Bob
    2 points
  26. Looks like a windshield washer squirter to me. Just a guess.
    2 points
  27. Yes, the flywheel is rather large and Fred isn't. He is well over 4-feet, however! Phil
    2 points
  28. Howdy – my name is Bill Newland. I live just outside of Fort Worth Texas. I have been working on old cars since I was 14, was an aircraft ground support equipment mechanic in the Navy, went to school to become a mechanical engineer, worked for a diesel engine powered equipment company and then a helicopter company, and am now retired. Since my wife and I acquired our 1955 Buick Roadmaster Convertible about three weeks ago, I have been lurking on the technical forum. In fact, I perused all 274 pages and copied the links which were of particular interest to a file. A wealth of valuable information here, thanks to The Buick Man, Old-Tank, NTX5467, Bhigdog, Mr Earl, and many others. Our “new” 55 does have some issues, and I will be asking questions on the Tech forum. I have other classic and antique cars – a 1929 Model A Roadster (AACA Senior Award), a 1956 Ford Victoria (a “high end driver”), a 1930 Model A Town Sedan (almost finished), a 1956 Chevrolet 2 door sedan (85% done), and a 1955 Buick Special (needs total restoration except for the engine which was rebuilt). We plan to sell all of these in order to pay for the 55 Roadmaster Convertible and reduce the car population around here. The previous owner of our 55 Convertible also resides in North Texas and was a BCA member I believe, so others from this area may recognize it.
    2 points
  29. I’m 16. I daily drive my 71 Riviera rain or shine. Drive it to high school, xc, even 100 mile trips, no problem. Only use the parents cars once every blue moon if I have to drive deep downtown where the roads are as thin as smart cars (boats don’t fit lol)
    2 points
  30. Tom I use autosol on my nickle silver radiator on my 1923 Moon. I would not use a vinegar solution.
    1 point
  31. The square emblem is from the early cars. My car has the Hat-in-the-Ring emblem in your middle picture. Didn't the emblems with wings go on the roadsters? I know the 8 with wings was on the Super Sport radiator. I have a lapel pin of the early emblem and I'd like to find a winged emblem to go with my other stuff I have for the car.
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. Making the support for the larger big end, to support the conrod, while I machine the smaller big end holes. Before I machined the final cut on the aluminium shaft to fit into the larger of the two big end bushes on the conrod I drilled the centre out to 31/64 . . . . . . . . took the final 2-thou cut and checked the fit on the conrod. To my amazement it fitted perfectly. Parted off my 'spacer jig' from the bar and turned it round to face this end. It took me much longer this time to 'dial in' the 'spacer jig' in the 4-jaw chuck, but I got there in the end. I then reamed the centre hole out to 1/2" for the T-headed clamp bolt to go through. I checked the T-headed bolt went through hole. It fitted nicely. It was then over to the milling machine to decide the best way to mount it on the mill table. I was going to bore a hole in the block of aluminium to locate the 'spacer jig', Now, thinking about it again, all I need to do is to machine off an area of the block to take the 'spacer jig', then drill and ream a hole through it for the T-headed fixing bolt. The big end bush should then be parallel with the milling quill when mounted on top of the aluminium block. Although this little job has taken me a lot longer than I envisaged, I have learnt some more 'machining stuff' and improved my accuracy as well. Tomorrow, I might even have it ready for machining the conrod!?
    1 point
  34. The leather is an electrical insulator, to prevent you from grounding yourself to the car body, in case the car is struck by lightning when you are signaling a turn.
    1 point
  35. I tend to agree with this. It looks almost like a Cal-Custom party for hot rod guys since it has the ribs....
    1 point
  36. Books...mostly history related. I don't know how many I have but it's in the area of 2,000 with a heavy emphasis on the 17th & 18th century. Also books on the Imperial Russian Army, cars before WWI and Judiaca. Federal period militia arms, especially New England Rifles and British muskets as well as British officer's fuzees. Here's 3 of them... a Volunteer short Land Pattern musket by William Ketland (c. 1801-1804) and officer's fuzee by David Blair (c. 1780) and an unmarked British rifle (c. 1780) along with an officer's saber, probably Irish (c. 1785–1790). The other stuff isn't mine.
    1 point
  37. Jack, I just looked at it a second time and the 37 Olds L-37 has 4 bolts for the carb. Sorry for my mistake.
    1 point
  38. Maybe John(Keiser31)will know. He is hardly ever stumped..
    1 point
  39. My little story can from a guy who asked why his dashboard glowed red above the oil gauge when he started the car. It turned out that excess tubing was coiled near the gauge and clamped to the back side of the gauge. Due to other issues it was the only path for an electrical ground. It may have been the temperature cap tube, but the message is the same. Expect the unexpected. Back in the early 1980's I taught Adult Ed nights in a High School trades shop. While explaining HVAC electrical circuits I put my meter on a white neutral wire explaining it would read zero. There was 110V. Unwinding an overhead extension cord reel we found a splice about 20' from the plug. Under the tape; two wires, black to white and white to black. "Trust, but verify"
    1 point
  40. Welcome (back), love the cars (especially the '56 Roadmaster convertible and the '46/'47 Caddy), and appreciate the invitation
    1 point
  41. Picked up the engine today. It looks about 98 years newer. Of course, the car is not ready for it yet! You can see the oil fill/breather and the magneto connection on this side. Note also the new ring gear. You can also see the oil level gauge. Phil
    1 point
  42. First thing you need to do is remove the fuel filter and blow backwards through it and check for rust particles in the filter. You may have a rusted tank screwing up fuel flow with trash in the system. If you find rust, it's time to install a new repro gas tank and a new sock on the fuel sending unit and blow out all the lines and replace the fuel filter and fuel pump. If you find zero signs of rust, replace the fuel pump and fuel filter and the sock in the tank.
    1 point
  43. All I know is that they are claimed to be brand new, look to be brand new, are less expensive than any rebuilt pump I could find, and (most importantly), the one I got from Cars, LLC has performed flawlessly since I installed it in March of this year. That's what I would recommend based on my own experience. http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=11020
    1 point
  44. No car movie list is complete without: The movie itself is just meh but there are 15 minutes right in the middle that'll really get your heart racing. And it's always neat to see all kinds of '50s and '60s cars in the background just being normal, everyday cars. (Watch for the hit man's driver buckling his seat belt--things are about to get very serious.)
    1 point
  45. Great pump, much quieter than the modern units today.....had on on my V-12 Pierce for years.
    1 point
  46. The RH door panel is done; before I'm looking for the quarter panels, I did some details at the dash board: both small round lamps (I had an inquiry to make them functional but I decided the added value v/s added work is so marginal that it makes no sense). Ralph Nader would not appreciate the way I did the lock for the glove box with the shaft protruding that way! Don't worry, this is just to be attached to the chrome's tree. Once the part will be chromed, the shaft will be cut! The "ribbed" plate under the heat and A/C controls was also added as well as the grille for the speaker. The pitch for the "holes" is coarser as it should but I have the impression it's a good compromise as I had to have a visual difference between the lower plate and the grille. Once plated, the indentations will get some black paint, creating the illusion of holes.
    1 point
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