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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/01/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    What a waste of every one's time............bob
  2. 5 points
    He did the antenna on my 65. Works better than it ever has and very fast turn around.Thanks Barney!
  3. 5 points
    Take the $10,600 and move on. I honestly wish you better luck next time....
  4. 4 points
    I've been working for some time on my father-in-law's 1918 four cylinder two seater, and we've finally got it running reliably (at least it seems so). Long hours have gone into getting the car mechanically back in shape that I just couldn't resist sharing our success. We still have a few items to sort out before I can tour with the car: - Adjust brakes - Install new float in oil sump - Finalize a couple of electrical improvements But before the leaves fall, I should be driving the car! WHOO HOO! Pictures below. I tried to upload a video of the engine running (quite fun to watch with its exposed valve train), but it was too large.
  5. 3 points
    Taking the pan off is a tried and true preventive action. Pulling the pan you might find 10 pounds of sludge or nothing. Cheap insurance.
  6. 3 points
    Ok, got the front guards on & took it down the street for some better photos.
  7. 3 points
    I saw it on the Internet, so it MUST be true.... 🙄🙄🤣🤣🤣🤣
  8. 3 points
    In the interest of moving forward, I want to get the speedometer head installed back into the dashboard. Several years ago I traded the original unit to the car to Russ Furstnow for this one. It is the same unit with the exception that this one has the light colored face. Russ had completely gone through this one and he told me that this one was one of the best ones of these that he had ever came across. We did our swap at the Chickasha Swap Meet and I had him set the odometer to the same mileage that was on the original head. I also had him go through the flexible cable and check to make sure that all of the chain links would operate as they should. I should have the swivel unit mounted back on the front axle maybe on Friday. It has just been so blasted hot here that a person doesn't feel like getting out in the heat. I will post some photos when that is done. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  9. 3 points
    If you have any drawings or plans at all scan, photograph, copy or whatever and post here so we can have a look. I too had a hard time trying to figure out what you are trying to do and I look over my wife's shoulder a lot as she draws house plans professionally. I'm thinking you have just 14.5' between the garage and the wall, and your side garage doors will open facing that wall. Is that right? If you don't have plans will that affect getting the necessary permits? Is the wall yours or a neighbors? Normally there are property line set-back restrictions that zoning certainly would be interested in. Unless you live in the Australian Outback or Alaskan frontier, others will be interested in what you are building. Just following this out of curiosity. Terry
  10. 3 points
    Needed to make room in the Buick Barn to sweep and clean the floors. So this became a good photo opportunity for the 12 roadster, 24 Pickup, & 13 Touring. Again on Saturday August 3rd, I gave rides for the opening of another 5.5 mile section of the old Oregon Hwy 30 in the Columbia Gorge. This was the only time it will be open to antique cars as it is dedicated as a walking and bicycle trail.
  11. 2 points
    FOR SALE 1962 Buick Skylark Convertible. 215 V-8 4 BBL carb 86,679 original miles. $4,500 O.B.O. Owner presently is in a nursing home. Family must liquidate because of sale of the home. Very solid presentable car with some minor rust in rear fenders. About ½ the paint looks to be original and in need of some touch up. Decent chrome. Very nice top which is around 10 years old. Front seat needs repair of some split seams. Dash needs redone. But, all things considered it looks to be a nice driver condition car. Recent complete engine rebuild, rebuilt Dual path transmission. All new brakes, lines, hoses and wheel cylinders. New Waldron exhaust. Radiator re-cored. The owner could no longer work on the car and some of the engine components have yet to be reinstalled. (Carb, battery box and radiator.) New radial tires and shocks. Everything else seems to be in place. Seller has all the invoices for work done. Contact: Scott Beaver 717-359-0911 or Brittany Beaver email britnoss90@gmail.com Location: Fayetteville PA. South Central, PA. Just off Route 30 between Chambersburg and Gettysburg.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    For those with 63s and 64s with A/C, I’ve found the reproduced 61-62 Impala heater valve can be used if you add a bracket. I’ve also used a Gates 28473 90 degree hose to make the bend toward the engine, but I bet normal hose would work. If you fast forward to 4:59, I go over it in this video:
  14. 2 points
    I have a 2011 Silverado 1500, I love that truck -- still, it has been flawless. 330hp 5.3 Litre/Allison 6 speed. It pulls my 9500 pound (Boat, trailer and fuel)combined weight steel hulled tugboat no problem at all. It marches right over mountains like they are not there, mileage sucks pulling that much weight, get about 9 mpg with regular and 10.5 mpg with premium. Normal city is 13 mpg and 20 on the highway (empty), but that's good for a 5700 pound vehicle. With the little Locomobile on a trailer behind, I have to keep looking back to make sure I didn't lose it. -Ron
  15. 2 points
    I believe that when the 50th Anniversary BCA event was held at Mr Bulgari's "NB Center for American Automotive History", the trailer parking for that event was a few blocks away at the baseball stadium that is the home of the Lehigh Valley Iron Pigs minor league baseball team. I am told back then the team was playing on the road so the trailers used the parking lot at their stadium. I cannot speak for the 2020 Grand National's trailer parking but I would think this location might be an option as well if the team is playing on the road the weekend the 2020 GN is held. No doubt Steve M will discuss the trailer parking situation once that has been locked in/finalized.
  16. 2 points
    Start pricing all that stuff out in a 2500 square foot garage and figure a normal crew of skilled craftsmen Maybe rental of a Lull and or man lift, possibly multiples, add things like slate alot of custom windows nice finishes, in floor heat. Give me 650 and I could build a dandy of a garage with lots of architectural style and there probably wouldn't be alot left over. My one garage door with opener and we are talking high end but on the bottom end scale as true custom doors are over 10,000 each, Mine with opener was almost 6000. Pella all glass doors for man entry doors start at about $1600. My windows were on the cheap end at around 400 and change each. Full divided light windows would have been another half to double. I bet any of these could push that mark. Especially if labor in your area isn't cheap. The last is mine and I'm at over 100G having done all the finish work myself, the inside is completely unfinished and I don't even have a floor. (that's 30G alone) (electric probably another 10 G). (Insulation 20G) That's another 60g before I even get to buying a boiler and plumbing it all in. Siding is local pine sawed by a friend. I'm trying to save everywhere i can but even doing excavating and getting cheap prices on stuff, it adds up real fast. Pay as you go , makes it real slow as well.
  17. 2 points
    In the 1990's and a bit into this century I had good luck going through my club rosters and finding a person near a distant car. I could match a person with a similar car and got excellent evaluations for $50 to $100, probably a little more today. I got one car checked over for a friend. It was a modified Chevy. I found a person near it on the Cadillac roster who had five hearses and a couple of cars. I figured he was eclectic enough. Turned out he worked in the shop that put the exhaust and knew the car well, even knew a hauler. My friend is still driving the car. That is a benefit of belonging to a club. You will get more from a hobbyist than from a "certified" inspector any day. The math always works. How much would you pay to avoid making a $20,000 mistake? Bernie
  18. 2 points
    If they won't allow an inspector, pass on the car. That's a big red flag. That said, even "professional" inspectors won't give you the information you hope they will. They'll look it over, make notes of where all the scratches and demerits are, and maybe drive the car, but probably they'll just ride with the owner. They probably don't know anything about that particular type of car and may have exactly zero experience with anything that's more than three or four years old. I could tell you all kinds of amusing stories about inexperienced inspectors coming to look at expensive old cars and doing an awful job of it for their client. An inspection is a few hundred bucks better spent on a plane ticket to see it yourself. That way there are no mistakes and no misunderstandings and you get the car you expect. If you can afford a collector car, you can afford a plane ticket to be sure you don't get screwed. Everyone who thinks they got ripped off by someone on a car purchase has only themselves to blame if they didn't go see the car in person, myself included.
  19. 2 points
    Howdy how! Over in Tempe Phonix spending some time with cars. some updated pictures on the wagon and the 57 Coupe. The need the seats, doorpanels done. Material already ready from SMS fabrics. Also need to order a new carpet. When thats doen it is just some minor work at it will be ready to ship. The wagon is soon ready to fire up, the valvecovers came out really nice. All painting is almost complete and the color is very rich and deep. Think it was a good choice. What we realized as that the parts car I bought has saved me for thousands of dollars in parts and labour. Still have parts for sale - to much to make a list! Still there is a lot to do, amazing was actually how good the rear (third) seatrow backrest came out just after a proper soap and water scrub. Seems like we are able to use most of the interipor from the partscar. Here comes some pictures of my cars and some other intersting cars that my buddy Art is working on right now. Most interesting is that the 63 Bonneville wagon (fully optioned) is more well designed and have way more luxury interior than the Buick. Thought Buick was supposed to at the higher end. Joern
  20. 2 points
    If you don't use it often, buy a set of car dollies. Drive the antique straight into the garage. Then put it on the dollies and slide it sideways to the far wall leaving plenty of room for your wife to pull her car into the garage. Don
  21. 2 points
    If the chuck needs to be replaced get a good quality one. Buy the best and cry once. My 20" Grizzly (import) drill press and generic chuck has a bunch of run out. I don't use it for close work, just to drill holes. The mill is for the serious stuff.
  22. 2 points
    I have a 1934 Dodge which has the Free Wheeling setup. Basically on mine there is a control knob on the dashboard ( see the pic ) ....the big one in the middle with a button in the centre. This is attached to a cable as you can see in the second photo. This is the attached to the gear box and enables you, once engaged, to change gears without putting the clutch in. The only problem was that people forgot to disengage it and the car kept on going. The black and white photo is a 34 in the showroom. Zoom in and have a look under the spare wheel on the ground. Notice anything ???.....I believe they disconnected the free wheeling cable to prevent potential customers killing themselves on a test drive !
  23. 2 points
    Both very rusty parts cars. Offers on complete cars encouraged. 57 Buick Special 4 door hard top 57 Buick Super 4 door hard top Best to email me direct mwilliams021 at nycap.rr.com
  24. 2 points
    This is what I have pictured in my mind based on what has been said. If this is right, it would be annoying for right side access, but, if its the only way to do it due to property lines/easements/etc, then go for it.
  25. 2 points
    The KX code Super Wildcat back from rebuilt, painted and again connected with the TH 400 Super Turbine. Now back were it belong. One bad head, but my friend Art where able to get hold of a correct one including casting number.
  26. 1 point
    This car in the black and white photo is in the "What is it" forum and I say it is a 1933 Studebaker Victoria Brougham. Is it? The blue car is why I guessed that since it is nearly identical....minus the sidemounts.
  27. 1 point
    Mike, If its the chrome that's the problem, look for a Molotow ONE4ALL acrylic paint pump marker*, liquid chrome. Guys in the bicycle restoration business have been using it with great results. Ed * check Amazon.
  28. 1 point
    Bryce, On your fuel gauge - does it look like the ring holding the glass in is some type of snap or expansion ring? The curved segment with the markings looks to be in pretty decent shape - you might want to pull the pin and remove that so as not to do any damage to that piece. From the photos it is obvious that the glass lens goes in from the top. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  29. 1 point
    A person can spend $650k on a 2500 sq ft building if they really want to.
  30. 1 point
    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I too am not quite sure what you think is wrong about the current fenders other than the rear contour of the rear fender, but the quick answer is, No the Century fenders on ebay will NOT fit on your 80C. I would also suggest you scroll down a bit to the Buick Pre-War Forum where you will probably find the most experts on this era of Buick available. I would also recommend you check out the 36-38 Buick Club at http://www.3638buickclub.org. Membership in that club would probably be a good idea for you. Also the best source of any parts for 1936-1941 Buicks is Dave Tacheny. You can best reach him between 4 and 7 pm Central Time by phone at 763-427-3460.
  31. 1 point
    Well to give you the "rest of the story" as Paul Harvey used to say, I also want to replace the oil pan gasket, so I do need to take off the pan It makes sense to inspect the wrist pin when the pan is off. As to the float, I have a new one made of plastic, so I'll use that rather than a cork one. It was designed for a Model A Ford, but should work just fine. I used the same thing for the float in the fuel tank.
  32. 1 point
    Definitely not an Overland 4 or Model 91 circa 1920 axle with the Triplex setup. I believe it is a Chevrolet 490 circa 1920. The below link should show the spring attachment to the axle. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/130386.html?1269252966
  33. 1 point
    I did say in my posts that I would not include anymore photos of rebuilding the other main shaft/flange and flywheel which make up this V-twin crankshaft assembly. Replacing the loose rivets with countersunk screws has been a big learning curve for me. My last post showed the problems I had with the main shaft/flange with the steel appearing to have been hardened. And the drilling of the clearance holes for the 5/16 UNC countersink screws being a bit of a problem. I was rather concerned that the material of the shaft would be a real problem with cutting the countersinks for these screws. I have included a couple of photos to show a couple of things I did differently. I bought a drill chuck with a No. 3 Morse taper to fit into the milling machine quill without having to use a 2 to 3 Morse adaptor. I thought it would make the drilling the countersink holes more accurate. It seemed just as bad, if not worse, than using my old drill chuck with the Morse adaptor. Perhaps I should I have spent more money on it? It cost £29.55 (approx.. $35.00). Of course it may be the condition of the inside of the No. 3 Morse taper in the part that fits into the milling machine? After lapping in the main shaft/flange to the cast iron flywheel I made sure all the holes would accept the 5/16 UNC screws by trying to fit the socket head cap screw first, as they were easier to hold and get started, rather than using the countersunk screws. On the screws that that would not start easily, I tried using the tap by hand, if I could not start from the flange side, I turned the flywheel over and put the tap in from the threaded side and used the tap to cut away the small amount of offset on the flange side. It seemed to work and eventually I managed to screw in all six cap screws. Once all six screws were in place I started attempting to cut the countersinks in the milling machine. I removed one cap screw at a time. Using a drill as a mandrel to centre the threaded hole on the milling table, I clamped it down ready to start drilling. I have some short drills, about 1/2", or just under, that seem to drill through anything. I used one of these first to just start the cut for the countersink. It seemed to work, maybe the shaft flange had been originally case hardened? It still proved difficult cutting the countersinks. Once the countersink was drilled out to the maximum diameter, I cleaned up the swarf/cutting lubricant with thinners and managed to screw in the countersink screw. I then removed the next cap screw and repeated the process another five times. Believe it, or not, just countersinking these six screws, on this second flywheel flange, took me all day! Today I will get on with modifying the countersink screw heads so they are clear of the big end of the conrod. I measured the amount I have to remove from the heads with a depth gauge, once all six had been screwed in for the first time.
  34. 1 point
    When the boss gets her new vehicle and needs running boards installed in February, and you have a stone driveway you just suck it up, freeze your a$$ off, and do it... 😀 the price of old cars inside, new ones outside...
  35. 1 point
    Chances are the knob itself can be replaced and may match from other full size Buick’s from the same year. The entire assembly is unique because it is tied into the vacuum system that opens and closes the headlights.
  36. 1 point
    Third backseat after cleaning! The quality of the vinyl is impressing, the could produce real good stuff back then...
  37. 1 point
    Painted and wet sanded and clearcoated
  38. 1 point
    Oh man...you could have accepted the plaque for the next forum exchange.... Good to see things are functioning, if not perfectly and that you’re able to get Chiquita, I mean Belle out to Buick Pointe. I don’t remember seeing an email about the Rascals hits...that’s a bunch of characters there 😜
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Based on the diagram a commenter provided, it would probably work IF YOU ALWAYS BACK INTO THE GARAGE.
  41. 1 point
    I found this 1955 Dodge postal van and couldn’t resist bringing it home. I don’t think many have survived, internet research shows very few examples, maybe less than a hundred remain? Supposedly USPS ordered 3000 but it’s unclear how many were actually built. The coach work was done by Fageol. It is right hand drive with a stepped down frame so it can be driven standing up. It has a corrugated roll up door in the rear. I will be installing a slant six and automatic. It originally would have had a Flathead six with an automatic but the powertrain was gone.
  42. 1 point
    Set up some cones, garbage cans, or whatever according to your measurements and see if your car fits.
  43. 1 point
    Funny, I was thinking my A and 4 grand would be about right for the MG. They are everywhere between 15 to 20 for a nice one. Problem is I like them about equally...
  44. 1 point
    Yeah, what Matt said. I would try to fix it if it were me, but every old car, in daily use, had some things that weren't quite right. Find out how bad it leaks. IMHO fix it anyway. Transmissions are sort of fiddly to check the level in, the car needs to be hot, level, in the correct gear (idling in park on a ford/mercury), its hard to see on the stick. ALWAYS check engine oil when you get gas, BTW. In 1969, someone at the gas station would have done that for you, automatically. Yeah it's possible, but probably not because of that. Some cars just have butchered wiring harnesses, some don't, working properly or not. A radio should take a LONG time to drain the battery, and if it is the stock ford one, it shouldn't do it at all, because it is really OFF when it is off. The 69-70 stock ford radios are useless as radios BTW, definitely a contender for the worst car radio ever built. I wouldn't expect one to work. Call the stock radio a hole plug, and hide the one you intend to use. Use a phone and bluetooth or something. Minor wiring problems can be repaired without changing the harness. A battery drain is more likely a clock or a glovebox light staying on. A bad alternator could also do it. If he let the battery sit for more than a few hours dead, it is hurt, and you can expect to replace it, too. But the right one does? There is only one motor. The linkage fell apart. There are some balls and plastic sockets. West Coast Classic Cougar should have the parts to fix it. I have no idea what the car is worth.
  45. 1 point
    Completed the 3.5 day HCCA Portland Group Annual Tour; Bainbridge Isle and Beyond last week.
  46. 1 point
    Probably but not soon. He's going to the H.A.M.B. drags at the Mo-Kan Speedway on Aug. 12 but he'll be racing his 64 Super Stock Dodge 330. He just acquired the dragster and is waiting on the fire suit and other safety items before taking it out. I'm in touch with him so when it goes, I'll go.
  47. 1 point
    For Sale is my 1969 Camaro Z28 RS. Fathom Green, Parchment vinyl top, Green standard interior. Real deal Z28 with Rally Sport. Born-with drivetrain. Numbers matching. 302 four-speed, 3.73 posi rear. Original smog intact, chambered exhaust, console, gauges, endura bumper. Factory Rally Sport. Built at the Van Nuys, CA plant. Sold new in Colorado Springs. Original invoice, documentation, photo library of stampings. Older restoration that runs strong and shows excellent. Asking $80,500. The reason for selling is I'm looking for driver/project correct original 1966-67 Corvette convertible small block 4-speed. Located in Iowa. Contact Tim at birdcam69@gmail.com
  48. 1 point
    Today is three years to the day of the 50th Anniversary BCA event at Mr Bulgari's "NB Center for American Automotive History". I just reshared my album of the event on the AACA FaceBook page to give everyone an opportunity to see where next years (2020) event will be held. Just over 200 pictures.
  49. 1 point
    What i think is getting sort of missed here is how much cheap tools have improved in recent years. In the 1970s-80s-90s, cheap tools were unusable crap that was probably going to cause damage to whatever you were working on, and maybe injure you. Craftsman was expensive, but good enough to get some work done. Snap-on, Matco, and Mac were excellent, but completely out of reach for the average person. If you were missing some socket to get a job done, you might ask a few friends, ask yourself if you can really justify buying some weird size socket you might never use again, and then grudgingly scrape your pennies and go buy one Craftsman socket. Today there is a lot less change scraping, and you come home with a whole set of sockets, and best of all, they don't suck. The current crop of Harbor freight wrenches, sockets, etc, are almost commercial grade. What do I mean by that? I mean they are real usable tools that fit correctly and usually don't break. They are as good as Craftsman was in the 80s, and they are finished better. Those of you who have not tried just don't know. If you were expecting the "tool sale" stuff of years past, you are in for a big surprise. I have seen big rollaway toolboxes that look perfectly usable lately at places like Harbor Freight, Home depot, etc. that cost in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands. The whole landscape has changed. Everyone and his dog has a MIG welder today. Think about that for a minute. Most of my tools are Snap-on, Matco, Mac etc. left over from my automotive career. Am I glad I kept them? Yes. Are they still noticeably better than the Harbor Freight stuff? Yes. Could I justify buying most of them for hobby use now? No.
  50. 1 point
    Looking forward to hearing from whomever bought the 1924 Peerless Six-70. It has been six months since your purchase. In the event that you have any questions I would be more than happy to help you! Over the years I have sent out quite a bit of information about the 6-70 model to people whom I thought were great candidates to restore it and I hope that one of them -- or perhaps someone else with considerable skills and resources -- is making a little progress. 1912Staver, "Projects like this Peerless that is the focus of this discussion are never going to make sense from a financial perspective. Only known survivor or not the car is going to be a major money pit, and needs a very dedicated owner." I'm not aware of any antique car restorations where one makes money, once all the expenses are factored in...even if you own a body shop. It's all about whether or not you want a vehicle restored, in my opinion. I know of a Peerless owner who gladly sold off a '69 Dodge Daytona(yes, the one with the wing) to pay for a little restoration work on a Peerless, and there are a number of car collectors to whom cost is quite secondary(I'm not one of them). Point well taken about a lot of dollar bills going into the restoration of a car like this, but that's true for new, used, antique and condition 1-5. Yesterday I saw a newspaper ad for a new Ford pickup, on sale at $50,700. Yikes! I think that the potential of this motorcar for both Before and After Photographs and Classic Car Club of America "Full Classic" status after restoration is enormous.