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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I ran across it on the Studebaker Drivers Club website on Monday. It had just been put on there the day before. The guy was listing it for his brother and the only location given was Kentucky so I figured it was probably at the other end of the state. When I emailed him and he said his brother lived about 20 miles from me I started getting excited about it. I went and looked at it on Tuesday and was very impressed with it so I gave him a deposit. Yesterday morning I met him at the motor vehicle office and gave him the cash and they transferred it to me (total cost $78.50 with no appointment and no waiting). Today I painted the wheels red and had a set of Goodyear tires installed at Walmart ($338). The two brothers completely restored it several years and made a few improvements which some of you guys may not like. They yanked the 6 and installed a Studebaker 289-2v that had recently been rebuilt. They replaced the 3 speed manual with a heavier duty T-85 OD transmission and added a new clutch and also a 3 row radiator. It didn't come with turn signals so they added them with 2 big amber lenses in front plus a couple of fog lamps for good measure. They put in a Ford 9" posi rear end with 3.50 gears and also an upgraded steering box and suspension. They completely rewired it with a 12V Painless harness and installed Cadillac disc brakes on the front. They also put in an aftermarket AC and heat system and an AM/FM/CD player with 4 big Pioneer speakers (one in each door and two behind the seat). They had the original seat reupholstered and installed a new headliner and then had a friend paint it. It cruises down the freeway at 70 with no problem which it obviously could never do if it was left stock. I plan on taking it to some shows and cruises in the next couple of months before it starts getting too cold out. Here's a few pics....
  2. 4 points
    We just bought a 1941 Studebaker Commander Deluxe Tone Land Cruiser to add to the flock of my other Studebakers. Dennis and Denise Dupont restored the car some years ago, but it has been carefully maintained and is as clean as a whistle. My wife and I had taken our 1948 Studebaker M5 pickup on a recent VMCCA tour in Ohio, and after 500 miles of touring decided we need a more comfortable sedan for touring with the pre-war car groups. The '41 Commander seats six, has a 226 cubic inch flathead six with overdrive transmission, and can cruise the highway at reasonable speeds. Raymond Loewy did the designs for the '41 Studebakers. This is the first antique car I have bought that didn't require a complete rebuild - it needs nothing! The whitewall tires were standard equipment in 1941. Now we can even drive it long distances to meets and tours. Wave if you see us on the highway.
  3. 4 points
    Few more pictures to help explain the process. Very impressed with the Steele BD cloth. Super sticky and easy to work with.
  4. 4 points
    Good news!!! It runs!!! All it needed was new rubber fuel lines, a new fuel pump, and some fresh gas. Plenty of work yet to do (thanks to the mice that got in ☹️), but it can be driven now.
  5. 3 points
    I often wish that shows would have a "Put the hoods down" timeframe. The lines on these car with the hoods open and trunk lids up are ruined and also those that want photos don't have an opportunity to get good shots. Hoods up and trunk lids open in the real world mean the car broke down. Bob Engle
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    Agree. WS6 is a performance steering and suspension on TAs from the 70s into the early 80s.
  8. 3 points
    Sold the '40 Roadmaster coupe and delivered it on my way to Michigan. Somebody might want to call Dave Tacheny if interested in the car. He surely isn't, but I understand he is not planning to part the car out. I had loaded a rebuilt engine/transmission on the front of the trailer along with a re-cored radiator to deliver to the shop doing the bodywork on the 76C. These will be installed in the car so that final assembly of the body is absolutely final. I don't want to have any part of fender or hood removal after alignment, paint and final alignment has been completed. I realize it will be more of a pain-in-the-drain to complete engine assembly, but at a much lower risk of damaging car finishes. This was a great trip up the middle section of this beautiful country. I also stopped in Detroit to visit Terry Boyce with whom we toured the Greenfield village. Met the Model T entourage at the village during their NY to Seattle cross country trip. I want a Model T now, those guys were having way too much fun!
  9. 3 points
    June 06, 2007 With analog cameras, pictures cannot be shown until the negative roll is completed. Here are some, with comments. I had the leather and I had the paint for it. It was time to see how it would look like on some trim parts I could rescue and modify. On the first picture, the part on the right side is the unfinished LH quarter panel. To simulate the stitching, thin leather bands are glued on the hard surface. The end result can be seen on the part at the left. Second picture: Both trim panels are ready, together with the arm rest. A chrome trim will be inserted between the blue and fawn leather; an ash tray will be inserted into both armrests. The excess leather will be glued into the quarter window aperture during the final assembly. Third picture: I could not resist installing temporarily the quarter trim panels and the seat bottom. The rear seat back rest is still uncovered as you can see. The leather work is requiring a lot of attention and concentration. From time to time, I need to do something else; this time, I began the front bumper. The fourth picture is showing all the necessary parts. For various reasons, I had to redo the central part four times! The supports will be black painted, the 3 main parts will be chromed and both rubber pads will be flat black. I’m using large screws for that assembly: 1 and 1.2mm screws. A view of the front bumper, ready to be installed, less the plating. The main supports are rather easy to assemble at the frame rails; the bumper ends are attached to the front fenders with one screw each side; they are not so easy to install on the model, but it can be done. The front bumper is installed on the sixth picture. As I was in a good mood with the bumpers, I began the rear one. For practical reasons, I had to do some changes compared to the original set-up: the original bumper is attached to the frame with brackets and the bumper ends are attached to the fenders from under the vehicle. This method was just not possible on the model; I did following changes: the vertical bumper guards are attached to the main bumper with concealed strong supports which are attached at the frame underside. The bumper ends are attached to the rear fenders with screws installed from inside the trunk. To change a bit the work, I began to rework the dashboard. On the next photo, it’s ready to get covered with leather. The last photo: this is the covered dash. The picture quality is disputable; I will try to do better the next time! The next things to come: doing the tail lamps apertures into the body.
  10. 3 points
    I much prefer the swapped in 289, as well as Cadi disc brakes and improved steering. I'm a Studebaker owner and SDC member. This rig is road ready and very, very drivable. Whats wrong with that?
  11. 3 points
    Got my headlight reflectors back from Uvira today. I had my reflectors nickel plated first at a Houston chrome plater (Speed and Sport Chrome) ($100 each) - They do good work but are expensive. Then instead of silver plating over the nickel, I sent them to Uvira for their special lifetime coating process. Uvira charged $75 for the pair which included return shipping. Shipping to them was around $20. Some jobs on the car are easy, some are hard. This one just takes cash. Hugh
  12. 3 points
    May 11, 2012. 7:10am Jeep Wrangler turns into the path of me on my motorcycle and hits me head on at 45mph. Ambulance takes me to hospital followed by helicopter transport to major trauma center 50 miles away. Four months in hospitals. Outcome-permanently paralyzed from the waist down, right leg completely amputated. Employer cancels my employment as I cannot meet job requirements. Insurance will not insure me now that I’m a risk. Can’t live in existing home due to layout wont support my new disability, have to sell and find and modify a ranch style house. Have to sell my 1964 Plymouth with 49k miles, my small collection of automobilia, tools and more things than you can imagine at fire sale values, including car and house. No time to wait for fair offers or negotiate better prices. Life is not fair as I think as this happening. I was 60 when the accident happened, just turned 67 last week. Why am I telling you this? Life goes ON! Yes you had setback and yes your car did not sell at the point you wanted but you are alive and you can make the best of it if you choose. What happened with your heath and your car is over! You have the opportunity to continue to live and enjoy what it offers. It may be different that you hoped for but you are here! It’s not the end of the world, it’s not fair in your eyes but it is a lot better than many others may be facing. I wish you all the best as you adapt to a new life. Terry
  13. 2 points
    I have - for parts OR WHOLE - a 1941 Buick Model 47 Special Touring Sedan Car is almost complete and was parked outdoors in the mid to late 60's. WHOLE CAR: Floors gone. Rockers gone. Damage on passenger side door and fender.Left grill broken, right grill intact and a good core. I have the grill center with a cool emblem on it on my mancave wall...if it is really wanted, let me know. The driver's side fender and an extra pasenger side front door are included with the complete car - Complete car includes a set of fender skirts and compound carb system. Hood is useable. One headlight door. One bent fender spear could be repaird (p-side) I can help load here. The Left grill is shattered and gone. Car was driven to where it sat. Interior has seat frames and a complete dash and most glass was in it all this time. Car has a 1961 Iowa title! $1200 or best offer for full car. That covers the carb set up and the fender skirts. Compound carburation system Both carbs, the manifolds, the linkages, the tin, the breather - everything is there. It is a COMPLETE COMPOUND CARBURETION SYSTEM for a 41 Buick that is in need of restoration. The carbs will need freed up. Surface rust on the tin, and it will be packaged carefully with everything marked. Fuel lines to carbs and everything including the linkages to make this system work. I have all but 1 of the manifold bolts out of the head - it is ready to slide off the engine with the turn of a wrench. $700 or BEST OFFER I will get pictures of the air cleaner and remainder of the tin that is for this system. It is all there. Car has a set of restorable fender skirts - both have the base stainless in good shape, the metal has surface rust on it. BOTH of the skirts have damaged potmetal (looks like a towel or pant leg may have caught on one of the spears at some point) Very restorable. $500.00 or best offer
  14. 2 points
    Beautiful day here in Kingston to look at some outstanding cars. There were many more !!
  15. 2 points
    The black “Gran Sport,” not “Grand Sport,” as they have it advertised, just went for $46,500. The ’83 convertible went for $7,000 earlier today.
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    Check with your local jobbers (NAPA, O'Reillys, Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc.) who rent/lend tools to see if they have a tool for holding the balancer while you attack the bolt. A couple of months ago I checked with O'Reilly's about a torque wrench i could borrow that would go to and beyond 220 ft. lbs. and they have one. I also asked about a balancer holder. That they that had also but it had no capacity attached to it and looked pretty small.
  18. 2 points
    Along with what Tom T said about soaking and tapping bolts, I applied heat to the bolts a few times. If you do that make sure to keep some kind of fire extinguishing agent near you. Your car will run, start and idle much better once you change out the chains. good luck
  19. 2 points
    You can lock it at the flywheel with a special tool made for turning flywheels that you can buy at a tool store, or perhaps an assistant can put a wrench on the alternator pulley nut and hold a back up on it to keep the pulleys from turning. In my shop we use the flywheel tool and do the job on a lift with one guy holding a backup underneath the car with a back up tool. On this style of balancer once the bolt is removed you can pull the balancer off with your bare hands. Pontiac V-8s are made the same way.....this is why there has to be high torque on the balancer bolt. On the front crank seal, the original seal is a rope seal......I used a replacement neoprene seal on my timing cover that was designed to replace the rope seal. Also, on this design, the washer under the head of the balancer bolt must be there or the balancer will fly off. Any bolts that you remove from the aluminum timing cover need to have anti-seize compound on the threads when you go back with them.
  20. 2 points
    To each his own for sure, I personally think it looks nice to show off what I work hard for and on but hey that's why they make Chocolate and Vanilla ice cream right? lol......
  21. 2 points
    The water pump in most cases doesn't need to be removed. IF you want to remove to just check for the corrosion (which you SHOULD do) start soaking the 1/4" bolts with 7/16ths. heads now with some kind of penetrate. Do this now & keep doing it until the time comes to do the chain & gears. Take a ball peen hammer & kinda hard tap the heads of the bolts. What this does is vibrate the bolts which tends to loosen them & let the penetrate wick it's way into the threads. In reality you should do it to ALL the cover bolts that go into water. IF the cover is too corroded (best to send pics) I have new ones. IF you need a more modern seal I have those in stock also. I can ALSO get new thermo housings or a Mopar one can be used by slightly elongating the bolt holes & those replacement Mopar ones are cast iron. IF there is much plastic teeth missing off the plastic cam gear it would be advisable to remove the oil pan & clean the plastic out of the oil pick-up screen. If you put an oil pressure gauge on it the pressure will usually be fine. The BIG concern is NOT pressure BUT VOLUME!!! This tends to starve the engine of the nec. lubricate it needs for oiling & for COOLING. Of course at the same time you can clean out any junk that has accumulated over the years. How many miles are on the car/engine???? It's not hard to drop the pan in a Riv. I can run you through it IF it becomes nec. REMEMBER the bolt needs to be tightened to at least 225-250 ft. pds. of torque!!!!! as mentioned. I also use RED Locktite on the threads. You DON"T want the balancer falling off. Causes much damage. IF your lucky only belts & maybe a pulley or two. OR depending could wind up costing a radiator, fan shroud, more pulleys, a new fan blade & maybe clutch, & a HOLE in the hood from the fan blade. This is just to make you more aware of things that you need to take precaution on. Tom T.
  22. 2 points
    Almost certainly a bad cut and paste from another product description, but would be relevant for our well-documented Pontiac friends. http://www.phs-online.com/
  23. 2 points
    Did more machining on one of the two flywheels this morning. With a bit of 'jiggery pockery' I managed to get a lathe tool to the rear side of the flywheel. I had to go back to the carbide insert tool, that I had used before, as it was the only substantial one I had, that would reach without the tool post hitting the rotating flywheel, when the cutting tool was in as far as it needed to go. Even then, I only managed to take off 0.0025" at one pass, if I tried 5 thou cuts, the tool 'chattered' and I was concerned that the shaft would move in the jig. By lunchtime I had only managed to remove 10 thou with the slow revs and feed rate that I was using. If it stops raining and hailing, I might go and do a bit more machining this afternoon. At least now, with slightly cooler weather, the old breathing (or lack of it!) seems a little better.
  24. 2 points
    Be careful. The front cover is aluminum and the bolts molding the water pump to the cover are iron. Probably some "bonding" of parts over the years.
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    The big thing on the nailhead timing chain job versus a Chevy is make note of the very very high necessary torque on the harmonic balancer bolt... I believe it is somewhere around 225-250 foot pounds. If you don't get that right the balancer will fly off in about 200 miles. Take a good hard look at the timing cover when you get it off......if the coolant wasn't maintained over the years they corrode horribly on the inside and often need to be replaced, When you have the crossover water pipe off the front of the engine, use Permatex "The Right Stuff" silicone sealant on it when reinstalling, not regular gaskets.......if you don't do this you will have a coolant leak. This also applies to the thermostat housing if you have it off. You want to just use a bead of "The Right Stuff" with no other gaskets and it will seal just fine. Also, be sure to replace the front timing cover crank seal while you have the cover off. When I did mine, the first timing chain set I bought, the chain installed with a lot of slop in it. I bought a different brand and the chain was very tight. The chain should have no slop in it when you install it, if it does try another source for the part.
  27. 2 points
    Took the GS to the last night's Hemmings Cruise in. Had planned to meet up with Ed @ 4 pm but had massive issues enroute. No, not problems with the Happy Car! If that car is unhappy it is because I haven't used it enough. Due to the 2019 Challenge most of the time I am driving the '56. This was external factors. To start with the weather forecast was for 20% chance of rain. I was just a mile away from home on a bright sunny 83* day when I saw the massive storm type clouds right in the direction I was planning to travel. With no other clouds around I decided not to return home to close the windows which I had left open slightly on the Regal and Wagon. A few miles later I pulled over and tried to get a weather radar on my cell phone, but that didn't work. And just then there was a HUGE thunder clap overhead. So I put the top up, but decided to leave the windows down. a few miles after that In Mechanicville, I had to put the windows up. Sheesh! Then I turned onto Rt 67 for the eastward drive and the train tracks I have never seen a train on were blocked by a stopped train! I did think I was getting a message to go back home, but I turned around and drove 6 miles north to Stillwater where I could catch the next bridge over the Hudson River. This brings me to essentially the same place. Just a short extra trip through Saggicoke and I'd be back on track. However, on Rt 40, the main passage through this town, there was roadwork with the highway reduced to one alternating lane of traffic. It was here that I was wishing I had fixed the AC in that car! But eventually I got through and drove in soft rain to the meeting spot, arriving a half hour late. But no problem, we finished the drive to Hemmings and parked the cars, then walked the three blocks downtown to get some dinner.
  28. 2 points
    Looks great, very nice looking !! sure it take a lot of patience and time, but worth all of it in the end for sure
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    My self adhesive bowdrill cloth from Steele Rubber Products came in today. Tonight I put it on the four new T rubbers to what my research on my originals indicated. I used my tablesaw to cut the angles on the ends and the 80T carbide blade did an amazing job giving a perfect cut and not leaving any kerf marks in the rubber. I tried the table saw for the heck of it and it turned out working perfectly. After I cleaned each T extrusion thoroughly with prepsol to remove any dirt or release agents, I let them dry. Once dry, I cut the BD cloth to an inch over length on each end and then peeled back about a 1/2” of paper backing down the whole length. I stuck the BD edge to the molded inletted line on the inside edge of the T rubber and made sure the BD was straight. I then pulled the BD over the tip of the T and started to work the BD down the outside face of the T rubber. I used a plastic window stick used to work glass into rubber to smooth the BD on the rubber as I worked it down to the bottom curve of the outside lower flange. Once this was done, I worked the BD around the bottom outside edge onto the back and the sheet metal strip that’s glued to the back. With a razor the ends were cut and the corners of the BD 45d cut as the originals were. Overall, happy with the results. Need to get a couple of 22ga strips made up for the upper window frames so I can glue on the rubber and finish the job.
  32. 2 points
    TerryB Senior Member Members 1,011 2,803 posts You are an Inspiration Sir Jim
  33. 2 points
    IT RUNS!!!!!! 😎 A little recap... Started out by pulling the gas pickup out of the tank and checking the filter. It was fine, so it went back in. We then replaced the rubber fuel line that connects the metal fuel line (that runs most of the length of the car) to the fuel pump. That needed to be done, but didn't help. Then we replace the rubber fuel line that connects the gas tank to the metal fuel line. That also needed to be done, but didn't fix it either. Nowhere around here had a fuel pump in stock, and because I wanted to get it running before this weekend I ordered one online. My son and I replaced it tonight, and after a little bit of cranking to get fuel up to the carburetor, it started. BTW...if anybody is in or around Northeastern WI, Zion Lutheran Church in Peshtigo, WI is hosting a car show this Saturday. There is no registration fee, and it is open to all. (That's why I wanted to get it running before this weekend.)
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    Great truck! It’s set up so you can drive it which is fantastic. Enjoy and keep the pictures coming.
  36. 2 points
    Congrats on your new truck. Most would call it a resto-mod but it sure looks good.
  37. 2 points
    I know someone with this new reproduction Shasta that is planning on towing behind a certain '50's Buick.
  38. 2 points
    It is funny how these old threads keep popping up and make me laugh at the sheer audacity of the OP... and I still don’t have any problems sleeping!
  39. 2 points
    When I was finally able to communicate with the world after all the tubes and hoses were removed, I felt like the end had to be near and I was just waiting to die. To say I felt terrible would be an understatement. I asked my wife, in the little breath I could muster, if she knew that I must be dying and if she had all the preparation done that would be needed. You can imagine my utter surprise when she said I was actually improving quite well and I would soon be transferred to a rehab facility to learn how to adapt to my new normal. I guess the take away is if you are not feeling the best is not unusual and it may be I good thing. It’s not an easy road, and it will have a few bumps along the way but the body is marvelous in its ability to heal. With all my heart I hope your travels on the road of life are great. Terry
  40. 2 points
  41. 1 point
    Black for these years is my favorite color. IMO, if it had any paint, it would probably had black. Without paint and all of the oil dripping everywhere from lubing the rockers, etc..., the engine was eventually black anyways.
  42. 1 point
    Possibility so that bystanders don't get as pizzed off when your car unnecessarily makes unwanted noise?
  43. 1 point
    I guess that I wouldn't go so far as characterize response to nickle era cars as "disinterest." It kind of depends on the marque we are interested in. If the right Pierce Arrow, Rolls or Hispano Suiza was available, it simply would not make a difference.
  44. 1 point
    Nice, nice 2R5, from the year of my birth ... !! Remember the words of Ricky Nelson’s hit, ‘Garden Party’ : “But it's all right now, I learned my lesson well.You see, ya can't please everyone, so ya got to please yourself”
  45. 1 point
    Here's the article from the WPC newsletter I thought some of you may enjoy reading if you don't have a copy of the "1931-1932 Dodge Trucks The Not-To-Be Forgotten Asset" by Sherwood Kahlenberg. Copies come up on eBay from time to time and are always reasonably priced. I'd recommend it to anyone with a 1931-32 DB truck. BTW, does anyone know if Sherwood is still around anymore? If so, I would like to get his current contact info if possible as I have a few questions for him...
  46. 1 point
    Personally I don't like the look of both sides of the hood opened at once. I too have tried propping the hood halfway open and resting it on the cowl ledge and yes, it has slammed down at the wrong time. Luckily, no injuries and no damage, but never again. One side at a time for display. Alternate sides at different shows. If someone who SHOWS INTEREST wants to see the other side, it takes seconds to lower one side and raise the other and often attracts more attention and interested parties as you do so. Or leave the hood down, and wait for someone who SHOWS INTEREST and would appreciate it, to show off the engine compartment detail. That also avoids having to hear people laugh at the silly flat fan belt, not even realizing what they are looking at and that you can drive without it, unlike their serpentine belt drives everything modern car. Ignorant people who laugh at the wood spoke wheels and say "flat head?" are often in awe when I explain the original engine has overhead valves, roller cam lifters, and gear driven generator and water pump, things mostly unheard of these days in a production car.
  47. 1 point
    One only needs to please one's self. I would be tickled pink with that truck. Ben
  48. 1 point
    Auction today. GAA Auctions in Greensboro, NC 1965 Buick Riviera Grand Sport https://www.gaaclassiccars.com/vehicles/28493/1965-buick-riviera-grand-sport Dual 4 Barrel Carbs Vehicle Highlights Dual 4 Barrell Carbs Loaded with Factory Options Power Windows A/C Tilt Steering Wheel Rally Road Wheels New Black Paint Rechromed Wheels New Tires Highly Detailed Engine Bay V8 Engine Automatic Transmission Factory WS6 PHS Documented
  49. 1 point
    Man, those are both really cool old Buicks for the money!
  50. 1 point
    Here is my 1913 Cole Carb and number.