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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Just drive it.........keep some extra paint on hand. It’s a car..........the plastic looks ridiculous. Yes......I put my money where my mouth is, my 99.25 point Pierce Arrow V-12 has 22k miles on it.................as my motto in my signature area says.......drive it like you stole it. Trust me........just drive and enjoy the car. That’s almost fifty years in the hobby speaking. πŸ‘
  2. 5 points
    Drove my 1941 Buick Series A Special Coupe 322 miles (518km) to a car event in the country here in South Australia. The car ran like a dream. Nothing like getting out on the open road. Since getting the car on the road, I've covered 2,700 miles (4345km) in 7 months. Many more miles to come!
  3. 4 points
    Today I worked on finishing up what needed to be done on the chassis to prepare it for the body. I redid the front brake line to the passenger side and then installed all the webbing material to the chassis where the body will sit. Then it was time to mount the body back on the chassis. I had to get my brother in law and my dad to assist in this as I didn't think I could do it all myself. All went well and the body now sits on the chassis and I hope to not have to take it back off again! Does it look any different from the last picture? Progress is being made!!!!
  4. 4 points
    Boys, great news. Changed the oil (which looked thin and watery so must have mixed with gas) and she no longer smokes! Took her for a short spin around the hood and she ran great, pulled the plugs and they, too, look really good - no more fuel fouling! For reason's I cannot explain, the busted rods seem to be related to the flooding issue. In any event, I am going to go on a longer run tomorrow to confirm all is well. Probably still get a rear damper, though. Can't wait to finally drive the thing. Thank you all for all the help, encouragement and support during this whole process. Dave, Greg, Matt, Keith, Neil, Bloo, and others, thanks much, Boys and I hope I can return the favor. And I know I'll be leaning on you again before you know it. This forum is awesome. Peter
  5. 3 points
    I was there!!...in Indy at least... I really thought about going over there. I wanted the '42 Limited, I would have settled for the sedanette or the '38 of course. I figured any of them would be a several hundred thousand dollar car even at the $26K the sedanette sold for cause I either would to have bought a building or got a divorce so either way it was gonna cost me a lot more than the value of the car...πŸ˜‚ I went over to the Speedway instead and drank beer in the suite for free...all worked out...
  6. 3 points
    Well, you can't drive to Alcatraz... You don't need (or want) a car in San Francisco. See the sights (watch out for the piles on the sidewalk) and pick up your car on the way out of town.
  7. 3 points
    Well, haven't had time to get the pictures off of my camera, but I have about 700 miles on the new engine in the Electra. It's starting to run much cooler now, since it passed around the 500 mile mark. We did a vintage car tour on Sat., and that put about 120 miles on it, then another bunch on Sun., as we had to go to my daughter's to do some yard work for them. Then the rest of the family showed up, so we had a weeding party! Keith
  8. 3 points
    This thread serves as a reminder of why I don't go to car shows: the annoyance exceeds the pleasure.
  9. 2 points
    I feel like that's a steal. The interior was done paint/body and engine compartment needed attention but that's kinda the easy part.
  10. 2 points
    I went to see the car with that same article printed on paper, and I gladly gave it to him. The car is in Sweden, they don't use salt on the streets there, and I understand it came in from Dubai.There is some rust but in my opinion it's mostly surface stuff. I will post more pictures as soon as I can, if anyone is interested. I need to scale them down to reasonable size and this requires some time and bandwidth - not good from the train. Yes, it is loaded with options. I don't know about the vinyl top. I've seen the cruise pull (or push) tab, and one extra horn under the hood, but the front seats have been remade and the shape altered, I think, change of colour aside. A bit more about myself. To me, it's about the driving performance and originality. For this reason I'd rather buy a GS with handling package over one with all the others options. My other two cars are great drivers, a Lancia Fulvia Rallye 1600 HF and a Maserati 2.24v. The latter, when properly taken care for, is a 5.9" 0-62 mph car that I've slightly tuned adding, reversibly, a much needed rear sway bar. So much for originality, in this case, as it fixes a well known deficiency in an otherwise fine car. My wife and I are in Sweden because our daughter is getting her mechanical engineering masters degree in Stockholm tomorrow. Our son is also a mechanical engineer, getting his master degree in race car design. Luckily mom (and wife) is a musician, for a change . We decided to take a long train trip through Sweden to check the car out. We don't regret doing it, as it was such a beautiful day. I knew I should have stopped looking at cars online while I could. I thought I could stop anytime. Before getting the Riviera '65 bug, for example. Too late.
  11. 2 points
    Matt, it was just so wonderful to read what you posted and see the photos as well. I have posted elsewhere on the Forum that it takes the time and willingness of the car owner to reach out to kids and let them have more then just a visual experience with the old cars we love. they will be very respectful if you give them a chance of the experience of sitting in your car or perhaps a ride around the parking lot, with the permission of their parents. What you shared with them will be with them for their entire lives and has promoted more respect for the cars as well as the cars owners. this is first hand experience with a piece of history. THEY are the future car collectors and AACA members. We all need to keep that in mind. As I have stated here earlier a friend from the Buick Club (who has several mid 1960s Buicks) came over with his three sons who are all about 13 years old or so, and I told them to sit in my 1930 Packard touring and 1940 Buick conv sedan, front seat, back seat etc. , behind the steering wheel . We all enjoyed the experience. Kids of all ages observe a lot more then we ever will be aware of ( I taught art to kids ages 5 to 12 , 1,000 to 1,200 kids per week, for nearly 40 years ) . Give them some memories to savor forever.
  12. 2 points
    If you're still in contact with the seller, you can go to the Riviera Owners website and show him the "How to I D a Gran Sport" article. Could relieve him of further frustration.
  13. 2 points
    talked with my plater this morning, and they have already stripped & polished my buckets !! next will be a filler layer of copper to fill in the pits, and make it baby bottom smooth !! maybe a few layers of copper, then polish and on to nickel and polish... so looks like my 3 week wait may be a LOT less, and i will NOT complain on that. actually surprised me, i expected them to be sitting right where I dropped them off on monday !!
  14. 2 points
    Doug, I would adjust it into #1 and hope for slight pressure against the main vertical surface of the weatherstrip. Tom Mooney
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    Grit and metal do not β€˜float’ but they are both in suspension within the oil. I have analyzed many vehicle and dyno test oil filters in my career. Metallic material and byproducts of combustion and debris do find their way to a filter element. We sent many filters to the Chem Lab for sediment analysis. After the material was separated and weighed it was put through spectral analysis for content. I can’t do anything about the combustion byproducts in my non filtered 1923 except use an API rated detergent oil that puts this material in suspension and it gets removed with the frequent oil changes. The ferritic material from the rings, pistons and bores will and does collect with a strong magnet. Best I can do in my situation.
  17. 2 points
    Hi James, you may have seen a couple of my replies to this topic. I was probably also a bit skeptical at first with an unknown brand and leaning toward others, however the choice for whitewalls in Australia is somewhat limited. As mentioned, the Caddy owner is very fussy and fastidious about his Coupe DeVille, so figured the tyres tires must be reasonable. Ok, since my last post have done several interstate trips as well as many intrastate to cruise nights, swap meets and general running around in yer Riv and am very happy with them. I was so happy, I rotated them to include the spare. I am running 32psi and get a good but firm ride. The white walls clean up well with a sand soap and they don’t loose air. I love the look of the wide white and also the tyre size fits the vehicle. I often think some of these look under tyres, especially as we are so used to seeing more rubber on our vehicles. No, I don’t have any affiliation with Suretrac or their Australian distributor but find paying a fair price for a good tyre is what floats my boat! To buy a Coker or other Classic Radial whitewall would have been THREE times the price! rodney πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€
  18. 2 points
    Agreed, this is a great looking car at a fair price. Several years ago, after a lengthy search through all of Van Kaufman & Art Fitzpatrick's works for General Motors, I finally settled on this '61 Bonneville to grace the wall of my mid-century themed office.
  19. 2 points
    Wild guess would be some sort of inner rear wheel grease seal retainers. GM used something similar but I can't remember if it was 30's or when but not exactly the same. It's been a few years since I have had or seen any since I drifted away from NOS parts. A size would help.
  20. 2 points
    It was my then and now current Model A
  21. 2 points
    It is... In a week or two I am going to have to slow down on the car and go back to making windows for the house - and then there is the hot water heater to replace and much of the plumbing which has frozen and burst so many times it's now a mass of repairs. I won't stop - primarily because I do the car stuff during the regular work week - but I won't be able to make progress as fast as I have been. I would like to get on to the water pump. that will be next after the oiling and lifters are fully sorted.
  22. 2 points
    At the McPherson College car show, the only music we have is the college jazz band, and the high school jazz band. Each plays a set lasting about 45 minutes. Otherwise the PA system is used for the occasional announcement. Without any other music throughout the day, the jazz bands really stand out, and everyone loves it. They are young talent, playing jazz, it is not all day, and the sound system is adequate enough that it doesn't have to be blasted. It's just one of the things that make our show different. I've had some people tell me they come back each year because we don't blast music all day.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    Just got back from Carlisle, Pa (import nationals) and a mini holiday. Didn't find too much at Carlisle, but did get a few great items. I found a good original bumper to replace my original pretzelled bumper, which is beyond repair for a show car. Maybe could be straightened somewhat for a driver. Found a great repro heater inlet tube, and found a complete original exhaust system, with original muffler (Photo 1 & 2), which is a big deal, I think. Has some surface rust, I little pitting on the muffler, but should clean up quite well. I'll throw some high-quality exhaust paint on it and it should be good to go. Was able to redo and install the accelerator pedal assembly from when I refinished it last week. Turned out perfectly (Photo 3). Picked up a lot of really nice show chrome from Librandis while I was near Carlisle and dropped off the rear bumper, the front bumper ends, and the rest of the telescoping steering column assembly for re-chroming.
  25. 2 points
    If I saw an auction for a car with a reserve and an opening bid of 30G I would expect the seller probably wants atleast 50G so I would just pass. Reserves are strong deterents in interest especially when coupled to high opening bids. If you are going to use a reserve start the sucker at 10G and get some interest in it. The problem is it's already been run through and the more it's run through with the high number the less interest you will garner. People can also quickly look at completed sales and see it had a high reserve so even starting it with a low number will tell them it can't be bought for 30 or 34,500. In fact previously interested parties won't even click on it when they see it listed. I know I don't on similar items I had an interest in. There is also the problem that you need two bidders to bid something up to meet the reserve. There was a lot of literature I wanted and I kept bidding on it, several times it went through once or twice I bid against someone but a few times no one. The reserve was never met, but each time I contacted the seller and said I can't win it or meet the reserve if no one bids against me. Finally the seller contacted me and told me they would take x number of dollars, a good 50, lower than my highest bid. So it was a done deal. Who knows what that top bidder was willing to pay.
  26. 2 points
    This morning I turned the knob down using the rounded tool you see. I wanted a radius on the inside edge. When I got the thickness to almost where I wanted it I soldered the threaded center portion into the knob. This time it worked perfectly so I've no idea what I did wrong yesterday. Then set up the radius turning tool to put a radius on the projecting part of the knob. I would really have liked to cut a radius on the entire top of the knob - that would have been more authentic looking but the largest radius this tool will turn is not big enough. It came out like this... And screwed into the top of the pump. The kn ob on the right is the one I made two days ago. With that done, I started on the bracket that will hold the pump to the subframe. When finished it's only about 4" long but I'll cut it down later. The extra length makes it easier to hold securely in the vise. After drilling a larger enough hole for the boring head, I bored it out to 1.450. And set it up to thread. But, I'm tired and I'll take my own advice and stop before I make an error. The bushing for the top of the pump also arrived at the end of the day so I'm plenty to do tomorrow.
  27. 2 points
    I bought this car on Craigslist for $600, $800 delivered. The picture is the arrival at home. Quarter cut out, no engine or trans, just a shell. After fees and shipping costs I netted $3200. Parts went all over the world to happy people. I still have about $500 worth of parts to sell AND I dumped the body off at a junkyard. (where it was bought the next day by a hobbyist). Outside of one dinner out with my Wife, all the money went to my car hobby. That Caddy would net a similar amount but a little more outlay. That's the "is it worth" part. Anyone restoring a rough one might say it was too much at the start, but somewhere around the 80% complete mark it could take on a whole new value to them. If the car was $3200 I could be tempted to throw some "easy money" at it. All depends on where the money comes from. Bernie
  28. 2 points
    Can I add work truck to this topic? I’m a carpenter by trade and do historic restorations in the Pasadena area. 67 GMC 3/4 ton truck I’ve owned for 18 years. Drive it daily. Had a 351 V6 then I swapped in a SBC. Then an LS motor to keep the gas mileage down and relatively low maintenance. It has PS AC leather buddy seats. Fuel tank out back. Disc brakes up front. Modified to keep it reliable, dependable and fun to drive. I absolutely love this truck. It even appeared in a McDonalds commercial years ago!
  29. 2 points
    Couldn't help adding some pre-war Holden Buicks...note the double suicide doors and fabric roof of the '36
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Hi all, Just arrived back from a 6 day combined Buick Club trip to the country music capital of Australia, Tamworth a 450 mile round trip (for me) where we also were a feature display at a local automobile show, please enjoy Cheers Paul
  32. 2 points
    As it was explained to me a long time age " oil is relatively cheap, engines are not", change it early and change it often. All those small pieces of metal and grit you could not clean out of the engine when you rebuilt it are floating around in that oil. Drain it out and get rid of them.
  33. 2 points
    How can anybody give an assessment of value of a car with such a limited description and dimly lit pictures.
  34. 1 point
    Okay, all of you got what you wanted. I told the dealer I want the car back at 1 PM on next Tuesday, May 28. I have to go up there to see it before I have AAA pick it or decide to drive it the 55 miles home. It's been sitting for 5 months, but it has often sat that long in my garage, except the new battery might be dead by now. He thinks I'm too old and sick to drive it home myself...ha. But, I might take the easy way out. I have AAA for 125 miles. I hope I made everybody happy. I dont' know if I'm happy or not. He said he'd reduced the price to $41,500 and cut his commission, and I don't disbelieve him. Actually, I like the guy personally. But, according to one of you who should know, you can't just keep cutting the price. After my heart surgery, maybe I'll put it up for sale in Hemmings, BCA and other places or maybe I'll wait until I'm 82 when I plan to sell the truck and trailer (June, 2020). Hear this. My wife is a tough cookie. If anything happens to me I'll bet she'll be harder to deal with than me. πŸ˜€ Oh yeah, I'll take all the advice and remove the Trippe Lights and put them in my trophy case.
  35. 1 point
    The first series 1928 Studebaker FA President used the headlight bezel with an 8 in a wreath. This would be from January 1928 to about June 1928 when the mid year second series 1928 Studebaker President came out the 8 in a wreath was replaced by a wing on the top of the bezel that matched the winged radiator cap.
  36. 1 point
    I second edinmass' recommendation. Do NOT go to Tijuana. It was dangerous 10 years ago and is even more so today. There's nothing to see. I would recommend a visit to Morro Bay on your way from San Francisco to Los Angeles. Very nice bay with a nice ocean breeze, otters at the north end, and many interesting shops and eateries.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Any time Bob, Basic wiring comes pretty easy to me. And I just recently hooked one of those aftermarket signal switches. I have found on these old cars that grounds and parts that the grounds pass through (fenders and such) can be a bugger to figure out for some.
  39. 1 point
    Hi all, thoroughly recommend the conversion, my β€˜63 dash has never looked so bright. And a chance to clean up the dust from 60 odd years too! Should be a post somewhere on here what was done. And also did the led conversion on the shifter lighting as recommended by Schmiddy which come up a treat too! Rodney πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€
  40. 1 point
    With the generator on that side of the engine, that looks to be a '28 or earlier Chrysler engine ? It could be parallax error, but your valves look to be on angle to the block face? Awesome work on the cylinder head. Just love it.
  41. 1 point
    Assembled with tapered pins for perfect alignment , oh and those triangular groves are highly experimental haha😬
  42. 1 point
    You might have better luck if you put it in the Parts Wanted forum. Good luck....
  43. 1 point
    Here is what mine looks like with the bumper mounted. The tire hangs behind the bumper. Photo of makers emblem, made in San Francisco.
  44. 1 point
    Well, it’s been over 12 months since she disgraced herself by popping the fan and water pump shaft into her radiator. Didn’t improve the cooling at all, or the drivability. So we have sorted that with a later rebuilt pump and rebuilt radiator, hoses etc. We also installed the new wiring loom that came with the car, along with a replacement charge indicator. The connections on the old one were loose, too much resistance and it became toast. A few other things have been sorted and today she finally went β€œon the road again”. Nice to be back behind the wheel, nice to hear her running. Many thanks to those on the forum who have helped with ideas, suggestions, photos and parts! Looking good, Rodney πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€
  45. 1 point
    Was great to finally see the car on the Anzac Day cruise Rob. Fabulous!
  46. 1 point
    Saturday's run to a town with the almost interesting name of Currabubula
  47. 1 point
    After sitting for more than two or three weeks, Melanie's Chrysler station wagon always smokes for the first 50 miles or so, then it's fine. I stopped worrying about it. Some driving will limber things up and get it all sealed up again. I'm sure it's not related to anything you've done in the valve area beyond some oil getting in where it shouldn't be and needs time to burn off. It's easy to try to second-guess the 1941 engineers and I often see cars in my inventory where someone has "modified" an old car with varying results--usually failure. If the engineers decided that the flapper was necessary, well, I'm going to consider it necessary. The one on my '41 Limited was stuck closed, probably since I've owned it, and I only just noticed that when I took it apart to do my exhaust upgrade. That probably meant my rear carb was never really doing any work, despite the fact that my car is seriously fast. Your car, without any plates, is pulling vacuum through the rear carb all the time. It may or may not have an idle circuit, but even if it does, it's not like the front carb and it's far less precise. The rear carb is designed for all-or-nothing work. Without the blades in that flapper, there's gas flowing through it all the time, but it's unmetered because the throttle plates are closed. It's like the choke is stuck in the on position (if the rear carb had a choke). I'm still putting my money on that missing flapper being the source of your rich rear cylinders. Do we know for certain that it was running great or is that just what the previous owner is saying? Despite his pedigree as a caretaker at the Nethercutt, does he know what "running right" is with that car? I have so many cars come through my shop where the owner thinks it's running great and then I get in and realize that the idle is wrong, it has a stumble, and two exhaust leaks. What one guy thinks is good isn't necessary "right." I've learned that a vast majority of people, even experienced people in the hobby, settle for "good enough" because they simply don't know the difference. Not that this is the case here, but it's always possible that it ran good but not great and the previous owner just didn't recognize it because he had no other car to which it could be compared. I let a fellow 1929 Cadillac owner drive my car a few years ago and he was astounded by how smooth it was, how easily it pulled in high gear, and how smoothly the transmission shifted--he figured his car was typical but now he's tearing his hair out and spending a lot of money to make it work as well as mine. He didn't even know there was a problem with his car until he had something to which he could compare it.
  48. 1 point
    1937 Limited: $19,800 1938 Limited: $15,400 1939 Limited: $24,200 1940 Limited: $40,150 1941 Limited: $44,000 1942 Limited: $77,000 1942 Roadmaster: $26,400 1949 Roadmaster Wagon: $66,000 The only price on this list that seemed market-correct was the '41 Limited, although I'll admit I was a bidder on the '42 Limited and bailed when it crossed $40. $77,000 is almost shocking, but then again, where will you find another one? The '42 Roadmaster sedanet seems especially cheap (probably the color), as was the '38 Limited. The '40 Limited was a little eyebrow-raising on the high side, but that's a good sign that maybe these big cars are warming up. The wagon might have been a little cheap, too, but I had a blue one that I couldn't give away for $75,000 so might just be the market on high-end woodies these days.
  49. 1 point
    I was driving a pair of tennis shoes.
  50. 1 point
    To call the owner an IDIOT, is just wrong. We as owners have the right to do what we like, YOU can say you don’t like the mod, but to call him an IDIOT, poor choice of words, and simply WRONG We have beat this topic to death in the past, allow those that wish to do their own thing do their thing. I’m all for your decision to be a purist, that’s your right, so is deciding to modify our right. Matt loves his Limited, I’m happy for him, I’m thrilled with my modified Limited. I have never picked on a purist, just don’t call me an IDIOT. Those that know me, know, they would never call me an IDIOT. I suggest you edit your comment. Dale in Indy appy