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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/01/2019 in all areas

  1. Left early Sat morning for my oldest son's in Marlin, SW of Waco. Couple pics of the quite, pleasant view. Ben
    4 points
  2. WINDSHIELDS Windshields of vehicles within each group will interchange with each other. 40/60/100 SERIES GRP I 1954-1956 46R & 66R Riv Cpe, 46C, 66C and 100 Conv 1955-1956 43 & 63 4 dr Riv sdn 1954-1956 Olds Holiday Cpe; conv 1955-1956 Olds Holiday sdn GRP II 1954-1956 48 & 48D 2 dr sdn 1954-1955 61 4 dr sdn 1954-1956 41 & 41D 4 dr sdn 1954-1956 49,69 Est wagon 1954-1956 Olds S88 & 98 4dr sdn exc Holiday 1954-1956 Olds 88 4 dr sedan exc Holiday 1955-1956 Olds S88 & 88 2 dr sdn 50/70 SERIES GRP III Early 1954 50 & 70 Conv 1954-1956 56R, 76R, 76RX Riv Cpe Late 1954-1956 56C & 76C Conv 1956 53 & 73 4 dr Riv sdn 1954-1956 Cadillac 62 Cpe exc Conv Early 1954 Cadillac Conv Late 1954-1956 Cadillac Conv 1956 Cacillac 62 4 dr HT GRP IV 1954 52,72R 4dr sdn 1955-1956 52 & 72 4 dr sdn 1954 Cadillac 60 & 62 4dr sdn 1954-1956 Cadillac 75 1955-1956 Cadillac 60 4 dr sadn, 62 4dr sdn BACK WINDOW Back windows *of vehicles within each group will interchange with each other. 40/60 SERIES GRP I 1955-1956 43 & 63 4 dr Riv sdn GRP II 1954-1956 46R & 66R Riv Cpe, 46C 1954-1956 Olds Holiday Cpe GRP III 1954-1956 48 & 48D 2 dr sdn 1954-1955 61 4 dr sdn 1954-1956 41 & 41D 4 dr sdn 1954-1956 Olds S88 & 98 4dr sdn exc Holiday 1954-1956 Olds 88 4 dr sedan exc Holiday 1955-1956 Olds S88 & 88 2 dr sdn 50/70 SERIES GRP IV 1954-1956 56R, 76R, 76RX Riv Cpe 1956 *53 & 73 4 dr Riv sdn 1954-1956 Cadillac 62 Cpe exc Conv 1956 Cadillac 62,4 dr HT GRP V 1954 52,72R 4 dr sdn 1954 Cadillac 60 & 62 4 dr sdn GRP VI 1955-1956 52 & 72 4 dr sdn 1955-1956 60 & 62 4dr sdn exc HT
    3 points
  3. The corn head grease when used in a combine corn head does heat up and flow due to the gear drives in each corn head churning it, a lot. Like a mixer. Now with that said, you have a built in steering gearbox heater on every all left hand drive 1920s Buicks called the exhaust take down. This should warm the box enough on a good length trip to get the corn head grease to flow back to the bottom of the unit. Buick Engineers think of everything!
    3 points
  4. Funny thing but don’t bet on it... I took my “new” car to a show thinking that very same thing, but 20 minutes after I arrived another Pierce pulled in and parked right next to mine! 80 to 90% of the show was post war cars, heavy on the 60’s and 70’s, and there were a few different people who commented that they had never heard of a Pierce-Arrow before and now here’s two of them... Of course, mine drew a bigger crowd... nothing like an unrestored car!
    3 points
  5. Plymouth in this era was mostly a family man’s car and most popular in 4 door models. A 1961 two door is an unusual find.
    2 points
  6. Mr Shaw does our ‘23 parts block still exist and have these pipes? Or are you going to tell me you shipped them to me and make me move two cars to get to my stash of engine goodies?
    2 points
  7. I got the fenders stripped. My sandblaster (Simpson's Metal Refinishing) turned down the air pressure and did a nice job removing the old lacquer and red primer. Some flaws were revealed, but overall not too bad. Phil
    2 points
  8. Yes a good friend has a 61 Plymouth Fury convertible, so I would agree. I do disagree on value v VW. Look at this cars early sixty vibe! Great car to consider restoring. I suspect it has that rectangular steering wheel, a space age dash, and a split front seat with a drivers side lower (or is it higher) than the passenger side.
    2 points
  9. In Pennsylvania, where antique cars are numerous, one could attend two or three different shows most week-ends. One of our region members, with his wife, attends 50 to 60 shows every season. I usually avoid shows that have street rods: The presence of street rods often means that they aren't serious shows for antiques. I'll choose shows that have a fairly large number of cars, and a wide variety, so I can see some different things. The location is always important, since it's more enjoyable to sit in a leafy green park or on the quiet, narrow streets of a historic town, rather than in a hot and featureless parking lot of a highway-interchange motel. (Photo shows one of our members on just such a quiet street.) Some community events have other activities too-- such as craft shows, book sales, an antique show-- that add to the fun.
    2 points
  10. I just think it is great that somebody like you can write posts in another language. It would be impossible for me. Unfortunately, when I was at school, here in the UK, we only learnt two languages, good English and bad English. The good English we leant in class and the bad English we learnt in the playground! Please keep up your excellent posts.
    2 points
  11. I have never thought about it before, until I read the last two posts. With our changeable weather in North Norfolk in the UK, we don't get many extremes of weather. I can work, or should that be 'play', in my garage 365 days a year. Jeff, I hope you are back on the MG soon as I have missed reading your interesting posts.
    2 points
  12. If I have the time, my car would 'fit in' with the other vehicles slated to be there and the drive isn't too horrible, I try to attend. Problem for me, is that shows for stock 20's motorcars are getting harder to find.
    2 points
  13. 2 points
  14. Landowner: “I’m gonna fix it up some day”.
    2 points
  15. Again to ALL, The chassis manual is your best friend when working on ANY vehicle. It's ALL explained probably better than I can. The ONLY caution I can give is when your installing the box OR anyone else's boxes. You have to remember this a FULL SIZE car box & it's heavy. Coming out is easier than installing so it would be advisable to have help because as I stated this steering box is HEAVY. AND it's not because it's heavy, BUT ALSO that your in tight quarters & it's awkward trying to move around while your trying to hold the box in place & getting things lined up will be just about impossible. Unless your on a lift which many of you I will assume will not. Still it's certainly easier to do with help. Next to make things neater you could clamp both hoses with a pair of needle nose vise grips to help with the oil that will come out of the hoses. Just don't clamp them too tight as all your trying to do is keep oil from dripping all over you & making it more unpleasant to work. The ONLY other thing I can say is get a "crows foot" (11/16" & 5/8") that has an end like a line wrench that you can put a long extension on to break the lines loose. After installation of the box make sure the lines are tight, again the using the crows foot to now tighten the lines. You could go to one of the auto stores that lend out tools as most I'm sure do not have a 1 5/16" socket or a pit-man arm puller. You will see a flat on the input shaft of the steering box & a flat on the coupler attached to the rag joint. With white-out or some other kind of marker (not something really wide other than a line) put a line in the middle of both flats. Get the steering wheel in a position where you can see the flat from below & the flat on the input shaft of the steering box. Use something to hold the steering wheel in that position OR whatever position you feel nec. for you to see the lines your going to be able to see from below. What this does is give you a reference to line up the two lines & the middle of both. This helps to get the twp pieces to line up exactly. IF the input shaft won't slide into the rag joint fairly easily your probably not lined up. What you DON'T want to do is force them together. IF you say the heck with it & continue number one it will be difficult to remove the improperly mated parts, But it may also be impossible to install the clamping bolt. Torque Specs Lower coupler (rag joint) pinch bolt 20-35 ft. lbs. Steering box to frame 60-75 ft. lbs. Pit-man arm nut 90-110 ft. lbs. Average time experienced 3/4 - 1 hr. " " Novis- DYI 2-3 hrs Tom T.
    2 points
  16. I just got the new gas tanks in. I only have 6 right now. I will have more towards the end of summer. I also got in new fuel sending units for non AC cars (single line). Please call me at 215-767-0845 if you are interested in a Riviera Gas Tank and/or sending unit. Thank you James
    2 points
  17. I feel your pain. Still have things to get done before the real heat starts and the monsoon season. I've come up with an idea so I can work on the car without feeling like an ant under a magnifying glass. We may be back on our projects around the same time.
    2 points
  18. Lose the wheels for a set of originals and the car would look so much better.
    2 points
  19. My Mother and I did something similar with one of my Dad's buildings fulllllll of stufffff. We had an interested buyer, we agreed on a price for it to be cleaned to the walls no cherry picking and then rented him the building for 18 months while he cleaned it out. I figure we sold for 10-20 cents on the dollar but would have taken 10 years of serious flea marketing to get full value, not what I want to do in retirement. Plus my Mother got rent on a building she wasn't using.
    2 points
  20. The seller got this backwards: So, buy this car and join the flathead club. Join the Flathead Ford Club and use all the resources of the club to buy the best car you can. I have been an impulse buyer many times, but rarely an impulse seller. Bernie
    2 points
  21. Sorry I got here late. Yes 1928 Graham-Paige 629 Town Sedan; 288 CID; 4 speed transmission.. This car has the Big Six and I believe is the ONLY remaining "Graham-Paige 629 Town Sedan". I have been watching Graham-Paige cars for the last 20 years, and have thousands of pictures of Graham cars, and personally own seven Graham cars, including my Grandfathers. So I don't say ONLY without some experience.. All of the chrome trim parts are reproduced. The problem with the 619 and 629 is they used purchased parts for the interior....let me explain. The 619 and 629 had to be upscale of the small sixes so they purchased unique interior hardware unfortunately it is near impossible to find (it is a wave pattern). On the bright side all the small six parts fit and nobody will ever know....except me (Oh yes I also own a 619 (1929, only 200 made)). The serial numbers are in two places, under the radiator on the frame and passenger side rear floor board, with a new floor most likely all three tags are gone (color, body and VIN number) most of these were registered to the engine number, something about horses. So most likely title matches the engine number, tag on the side of the engine, near the generator. The Graham-Paige production book still exists so you could possibly get the build sheet for this car. Great car to own and drive, it will cruse at 60 mph all day long, yes extra large hydraulic brakes on all wheels. Too bad seats are lost, they are all wood I could get you all the information you need to build new seats. Looks like someone has rebuilt the entire wood top/roof, and he has rebuilt the shocks. Hopefully it retained its one piece rear bumper (the only really scary part to find) if it has a two piece bumper (center missing) that means someone installed the dual side mounts, not a big deal. If you do get the Graham, plan on spending the day (more hours the better) searching the garage for parts. PM me I will get you my phone number so you can send me pictures, I will tell you if they are Graham parts or not. Anything you forget will be hard to replace, and cost you more money. I would bet most of the parts are in the garage or the house. My research shows these are optional colors, with only this example... Most likely it was Graham-Paige blue with black fenders, blue wheels. The disk wheels are great, easy to clean and usually straight. The tail light is hard to find, Nash is the same three lens, one on ebay now. Hope I answered your questions, I think I have a set of cowl lights.
    2 points
  22. There's no such a thing as bigger Ken. Once you have more room.... you just fill it up! 😅 (ask me how I know)
    2 points
  23. Fisher body tag decode: BODY BY FISHER ST 79 4BR35 X 263615 BDY TR 62J AM6 54L 54U PNT 06E 230723 4BR35 4 = Buick B = B-body platform (C-body platform was used for the Electra) R = Estate Wagon (series) 35 = 4-door station wagon X = Fairfax, KS 263615 = body number Trim 62J = Dark Camel Tan Cloth and Vinyl AM6 = seat option code = SEAT ASM, FRT SPLIT W/CTR ARM REST (60-40) Paint code 54L54U = solid Light Yellow 06E = build date = June (06) 1979, fifth week (E) 230723 = batch or broadcast number, also found on buildsheet Buick VIN decode: 4R35K9X163358 4 = Buick R = Estate Wagon (series) 35 = 4-door station wagon K = 403 V8 by Oldsmobile (L80) 9 = 1979 X = Fairfax, KS 163358 = sequential number, range for Fairfax in 1979 was 100,001 to 164,120
    1 point
  24. Do you have one that you can get mesurements from? I know there are a few crank companys out there that can make billet cranks. SCAT and Callies make billet cranks for many V8's but if they have one they can use for measurements they can probably duplicate anything. Last time I had a billet crank made was back in the 90s and it was about $2000. But it was like artwork and was pretty much indestructable. Might be overkill for you but if theres no other way.......
    1 point
  25. Here's an addendum to the previous post above I did about 40 minutes ago. There's a lot more on the internet than just the three I listed above...…..some Internet/Utube searches along the lines "EPS Installation" will bring up more stuff. If you should go down this road the first thing you will have to decide is between a GM ( Saturn Vue/Equinox) type unit or an Asian type unit. The Asian unit is a little easier to install and doesn't require an add-on module....but you can't adjust boost level. The GM unit is a little more difficult to install and requires an a small add-on module ( buy off of eBay for about $50 ) but with it you can adjust boost level. So far we have $35 in a used Saturn Vue ( 2005) EPS unit about $50 for a add-on module off of eBay and about $30 for the converter to recharge the 12V battery. The battery cost us nothing...off of a used lawn tractor. And maybe $50 for wire and misc. We needed a modest amount of machine work but my buddy has a machine shop so no cost here For the three of us working two afternoons a week this has been a two month project. Sounds like a lot but we are in no hurry and also there has been a lot of trial and error as we learned about EPS units etc etc. Someone learning off our experience could do it faster Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
    1 point
  26. I recently found out about these: https://www.tirestickers.com/shop/white-wall-tires/ Basically rubber stickers you glue to the tires. I'm wanting to make double stripe whitewalls. I second Hankook, they make some great tires.
    1 point
  27. These are very common and used on early antique motorcycles. When I'm done all this will get Cadmium Plated 👀 INDIAN's Harley Davidson, Crocker, old british Watch the old british because the threads are BSP ' british standard pipe ' which you don't want. WHAT you may know that ANY plumbing supply / hardware store had Gland Nuts in American threads. What you do need. These are available now, anywhere ! LOOK @ :: Jerry Greer Motocycle Co. https://www.jerrygreersengineering.com under chief / 4's IN THE 1930's - 41 years .......... gas line ...... pp 29 ...... you'll see the fittings #5 ....... about 3-4bucks ea. && Unusual 1/4" fittings https://www.plumbingsupply.com/copper-by-size.html#025 THIS could be used as a TAP OFF........ remove the valve core and use the cap to seal. When you want / need to drain the tank [ slow as it may be ] this could very well work. https://www.zoro.com/jb-industries-14-access-valve-tee-brasscopper-a31140/i/G1290177/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5J_mBRDVARIsAGqGLZB-NcbTuPWeD7hExGtQ1KHa3D56Dhshk16_qOwjkJR2GTJ4r3L58wUaAqslEALw_wcB https://www.grainger.com/product/3DXA1?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5J_mBRDVARIsAGqGLZB2FdzvqgK8l3oR9S1BsFkFF8-Sid6d6SsXwkxOPvaKnD-dOD4cmIMaAunFEALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQjw5J_mBRDVARIsAGqGLZB2FdzvqgK8l3oR9S1BsFkFF8-Sid6d6SsXwkxOPvaKnD-dOD4cmIMaAunFEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281733070937!!!g!471321798603! ANOTHER BENDING TIP Tape the line ends and PACK & I mean PACK fine grained sand into the steel brake line before bending and you a lot less likely to kink on a small radius. Use Steel over copper , because copper can "work - Harden " depending on vibration, fatigue & softer material. 1/4" steel brake line is the bees knees. Be Extra Sure and use a taper drill bit @ the end INSIDES of the steel lines so the 'flow' of fuel isn't restricted or any turbulence caused inside the line. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! A " V_Belt' Pulley . . . . . also acts as a bending shoe............: . .
    1 point
  28. For what? And why have one built, wouldn't it be easier to find another one or even repair the one you have? It would be possible to machine one from the solid but hideously expensive.
    1 point
  29. Ben and Don No it will be a while before we are confident. We will probably road test it next week for the first time. This week we will finish adding the "boost converter" which will take 8V and boost it to 12V ( to keep the 12V lawn and tractor battery charged up....this 12V battery powers the EPS motor ) And we have found that we need to add some support to the EPS motor unit. To install this we had to cut out part of both the outer steering column and the inner steering column tube......and installed the EPS motor unit...which is a bit heavy...…...in the space we cut out. We lost a little rigidity here and we have to get it back with some bracing of some sort. You can figure on having toe remove the complete steering column.....along with the steering box since you can't separate them We garage tested the unit again today and again it gave plenty of boost to the steering. In the interim....there's a fair amount of info on the internet and UTube if you want to get familiar with this. Then later....if I'm successful...I can add the "1937 Special" aspect. It will be hard to describe what we have done if you haven't already reviewed some of the stuff on the internet/UTube stuff for example https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1848775-35-electric-power-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-no-caster-issues.html#post19425307 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4TYQ_KJSpc http://www.epowersteering.com/ Jack Worstell jlwmaster@aol.com
    1 point
  30. 4BR35 is the Estate Wagon model number. There was no separate LeSabre or Electra Estate Wagon, just Estate Wagon and Estate Wagon Limited. "X" Engine was the Buick 350, I believe you should have the "K" code Oldsmobile 403 in your EW.
    1 point
  31. Please save that rare Graham-Paige 629 town sedan, its too rare to lose! Value restored bedamned, conservatorship of a sole survivor is worthy objective in and of itself! Steve
    1 point
  32. YUP... this thread is now closed. Open another if you like - but without the politics.
    1 point
  33. The factory called it a corrugated drive, think corrugated fibre board box ( incorrectly usually called a cardboard box). House wheels have 10 corrugations where the hub fits into the back of the wheel center shell.
    1 point
  34. Just because you can't find another doesn't mean it's rare. It could mean you are just not looking in the right place. It could be that a small run of them was made and wholesaled off and the maker went on to producing other products. If you define rare as simply not many made, then you might be correct, but if you attempt to include the "rare factor" in determining value, it's a long stretch for items like these. They are purely modern knock-offs and are virtually worthless, unless you can find one of those kinds of people who P.T. Barnum said were "...born every minute." Hope you didn't buy it as a real "antique" or pay too much for it. As a decorator item for the proverbial "man-cave" it might be cute sitting on the bar so I suppose it has some value in that respect, but IMHO it's not more than a $20 novelty. Loads of info is available from this posting on a great forum for collectors of all types of Petroliania and was submitted by a well known expert on Michelin items, Dr. Pau Medrano-Bigas, Professor of Graphic Design at the Grade of Design. Department of Visual Arts and Design. Sant Jordi Faculty of Fine Arts. University of Barcelona. A full discussion on Michelin collectibles and fakes can be found at http://www.oldgas.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=384489&page=2 I write you to tell you that the English translated version of my Thesis Dissertation titled The Forgotten Years of Bibendum. Michelin’s American Period in Milltown: Design, Illustration and Advertising by Pioneer Tire Companies (1900-1930) is now available online at the University of Barcelona Thesis Depository: http://diposit.ub.edu/dspace/handle/2445/126382 The Thesis Dissertation was presented in 2015 and the English translation was finished in 2018 thanks to the financial support of the late Bruce T. Halle and the management of Susan Driver, curator of the Collection of Discount Tire turn of the Century lithograph tire posters. I’m so grateful for their support and endorsement. The pdf files has been prepared and concived to be printed on paper. The Thesis can be downloaded separately by chapters, where the images appear reproduced in full color and in good resolution. Files with the covers/back covers of the four volumes are also provided. It is made with the intention that everyone can print it on paper and bind it for your own enjoyment. I think you will delight it, specially the chapters dedicated to American forgotten tire companies such as FISK, KELLY, REPUBLIC, GILLETTE, HOOD, MILLER, LEE, among others. Although it is deep in the textual content, do not worry ... it is not boring, and it is also very visual (it contains more than 4,400 images, most of them never published before). I 'm looking forward to reading your opinions... I wish you enjoy it! Your friend in Barcelona, Pau Terry
    1 point
  35. Looks like one nice paint job. Just like a mirror. Hope you and your car are doing well.
    1 point
  36. On Facebook today. The man who painted my car reflected in the hood of the one he is painting.
    1 point
  37. I found some special welding supplies that should work on any needed repairs. These are for the old fashion stick welders only not for MIG or TIG.
    1 point
  38. They are getting cranky in their old age, humor them by not paying any attention to their unexplained antics.
    1 point
  39. Holy smokes, Rob! While I agree we are all crazy, and you maybe more than some, but I don't think it's as crazy as having golf as a hobby.
    1 point
  40. After reading all of the replies here , and because the person that sent me the email has not responded, even though he sent me a PM through this site, I now believe that it is some kind of scam.
    1 point
  41. I can see the pile of stainless steel wheel covers in my back yard from their satellite....
    1 point
  42. From the looks of the right front tire that wasn't the first time on the curb.
    1 point
  43. Ok K31, so I guess that makes you only 999 out of 1000!
    1 point
  44. A man after my own heart. Did you try swearing and throwing tools? I find that sometimes frightens the parts into cooperating. But if that doesn't work, sometimes all you can do is get creative. Nice work!
    1 point
  45. Quick Check Pull a head light, on the back it will say what voltage it is. It is most likely still 6 V positive ground. If the hearer hoses are off I would by-pass it for now. Look at the side of the engine block, a long crack is not good. Drain the oil, look for water or large metal pieces. When installing the battery make sure every thing is in the off position. If you should not have a spark when touching the last cable, mice can do a number on the old wiring.
    1 point
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