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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/23/2019 in all areas

  1. I see much derision about this phrase but I believe it's only meant to show the car was not parked originally because of a blown engine or similar catastrophic issue.
    6 points
  2. Yup, we drove 1938 “Black Beauty” most of the Easter weekend, probably put over 100 miles on her. Mainly sealed country roads with a detour over a steep downhill stretch of dirt! Tested out both the brakes and engine braking in second! She ain’t afraid of the dirt neither!
    6 points
  3. I did not get a picture, but the wife and I drove almost 60 miles on the 1913 car on Sunday after church. Trying to get all of the bugs out and know the car better. We are getting ready to go touring this summer with this car and the '15 truck.
    5 points
  4. You can find it on Ebay at. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1933-Cadillac-Other/123744738752?hash=item1ccfc2ddc0:g:M9UAAOSwTZ9cv0ct
    3 points
  5. Around the corner from my house....I have always love this rocket style....it seems to have an extra chrome piece on each quarter panel along with that silly bumper strip down each side.
    3 points
  6. Disconnect the arm from the motor and see if it closes manually. If it does it only needs an adjustment. Gene.
    3 points
  7. I am usually a stickler for authenticity. But, I cheated on the wiper motor. My housing was cracked, it was leaking vacuum, a mounting leg was broken, and I couldn't find a correct replacement. A Model A Ford wiper motor fits the mounting holes perfectly and they are being reproduced. In twelve years no one has noticed it is not the correct motor (just squealed on myself) and it works great.
    3 points
  8. ...and then the whole class said in unison..."THANK YOU MR WILLIE".
    3 points
  9. Drove about 170 miles this weekend: water pump is dry; radiator is dry; tranny still leaking but not as much (wishful thinking?) after the STP. I will add another bottle after it leaks down. Planned 300-400 mile trip (150 miles from home) this next weekend. If stable it will go to OKC in June Gotta get back to killin' bugs and killin' the planet .
    3 points
  10. It seems that by waiting long enough, I am able to get around the 9.77 MB issue. Here we have Saphira, the Reatta that our daughter has her eyes on. There's a broken part in the ignition, but I was able to get a replacement blue steering column in Brookfield in 2017. Finally, the McLaughlin-Buick 29-51, which has had the mechanicals gone through and wheels refinished. Unfortunately, the tubes we got had valve stems that were too short, so adding extensions on has caused leak issues. I hope to get that dealt with this year so that I can actually get on the road.
    3 points
  11. Here we have the 1976 Skyhawk, 1966 Wildcat beside the Electra (with portions of 1923, driver quality 1976 PCR, 1954 Century, and 1941), the 1923, and the 1954 Century Estate Wagon (model 69).
    3 points
  12. Once I learn how to post a video I may have something more to show you. I took the Buick for it's first drive in probably 55 years! Really an impressive car, especially when I compare it to the 1922 Dodge brothers and the 1929 and 30 Model A that I have driven. Much more refined. I started with filling the vacuum tank with gas. I filled it 2 days earlier, and some of the gas leaked past the needle and seat and I had an occasional drip that smelled up my garage. I figured it might until it ran a while and really seated in. Easter Sunday at 2:00 pm I again filled the vacuum tank. No leaks this time. I pulled the choke, retarded the spark, and gave it a little throttle. It cranked 3 revs and it popped. I pushed in the starter again and it started. I shoved in the choke, advanced the spark a little, Wow. It runs silky smooth. I kept the idle low hoping to let the water pump bushings seat in. The car will just lope very slowly if you set it that way. 13 in HG on the vacuum gauge and steady. I may be able to improve this with the use of a timing light and a dwell meter. Oil Pressure at 25 psig. It sounded good, so we decided to put a couple of gallons in the gas tank and try to establish vacuum. A few attempts and running out of gas, but it finally did establish itself. I did use a brake vacuum tool and pulled a little gasoline forward that way. Once the vacuum system was established, no issues with continuous running. I live on 5 acres just outside the city limits. My driveway is long and has a circle at both ends. We made multiple trips with a couple of us taking turns driving. The clutch is really light on these cars. Everything was good on all the trips, but on one, I noticed a couple drips of antifreeze coming out of the front water pump seal when the car was stopped. I unscrewed the brass nut, and the outer lip seal was almost all the way out. I had used permatex #2 between the seal and the bore, and I think it got hot and slippery. I was able to push the seal back in by hand. I know Larry Schramm said he did not secure the seals with anything and the nuts were decorative, but I plan to make a 2 part piece that will prevent the seals from coming out. I want to make these in a split version so that I can install them, and remove them if I ever need to install packing on short notice. I did take a couple of the large O rings that I have and I cut out a small section so that they could be installed as a temporary means of preventing the seal from coming out, but I prefer a more robust design. So I don't think I will drive it again until I have the seal holders in place. I need to go thru the brake procedure again. since they have worn in a little. I have no lights or horn- only ignition wiring, so it will take a little time before I actually get on the road. A big step today. Thanks for everyone's help along the way. Another fine Buick running again. Hugh
    3 points
  13. I put about a 100 Miles on the "puff" since taking it off the U-haul, trailer then Sunday I got the transmission filter and oil for the transfusion and made a mess of my driveway, which I expected, having done one of these before, and hopefully will run for while, Oh and I washed it yesterday by hand!
    2 points
  14. I hadn't given that any thought. What would be appropriate? I rather dread having to repolish the etched surface. Wouldn't you use a strong base to neutralize the acid? (Keeping in mind that I know nearly nothing about chemistry.) I cleaned up the other end of the manifold and assembled it this morning. then calculated where the oil lines have to go. It's more complicated than I'd thought because they can't overlap neatly. I came up with a plan in any case but it will be a long time before I have to install them. First, I squared the oil manifold on the milling machine table. This is where the flats I put on the ends come in useful... it was no problem getting the holes perpendicular to the manifold. After the holes were drilled, I tapped them 1/8NPT Here's the finished piece. Before I can go forward with this I have to get all the burrs out of the inside. I may have to order a flex-hone for that. I need it to be completely clean before I assemble it since oil will be running through it. This is brass pipe. The wall thickness is greater than most tubing but still not enough that I will feel comfortable just screwing the flare fitting into it so when everything is finally assembled I think I will solder them too. The entire unit has been designed so that it can be taken off the car without having to slide it through the aluminum collars that suspend it from the water lines. It took me quite a while to think of a way to do that. I will probably go on to something else tomorrow while I wait for whatever I need to finish this. when it is done, I'll incorporate it into the test stand with the idea of testing the entire oiling system off the car.
    2 points
  15. Drove to a nice small town on the eastern shore of MD. It was an American Legion car show. The group pictured here, like me, did not get the memo it was canceled due to weather. Well, we all parked anyway. The Legion did bring out the music and held an impromptu show as a small group did bring their cars. Eventually a few more showed up. The Legion opened at 12:00. Promptly at 12:01 the drinking began. Early starters in this town I'm guessing. Great people and super friendly. I packed it in not long after and headed home on the lovely country roads. 136 miles round trip. I reserve my cocktails until after 5:00.
    2 points
  16. I have follow your posts for years and feel for you as I went through the same with my Mother. We are driving her 67 Camaro RS Convt this weekend on an Ohio Region tour to Cambridge, Ohio. Maybe I will finally figure out how to post on this site.
    2 points
  17. Check to see if you forced the horizontal rod to move at its adjusting point near the headlight motor. If not, you must have bent something. Try re-adjusting the horizontal rod so the clamshell closes. Make sure the adjustment is not too tight or you will keep the limiting switch on the motor from opening the circuit resulting in a burned out headlight motor. Tom Mooney
    2 points
  18. Lamar, Ask Jack Welch to send them to you. That is the process that he has stated Just send him your name and BCA number.
    2 points
  19. Matt; You have missed the point. There was no disagreement about wording. There was a request to change wording. That was done. There was a request to correct an errant coma. That was done. The disagreement was over wheterr or not I would repost the minutes in their entirety. The correct way to do that is to list the changes and request the minutes be approved with those changes. It is not to force the secretary to repost minutes in their entirety . You can read , reread or talk to anyone you want , but this is the very simple truth of the matter. I had no choice but to have the minutes go unapproved and there for no business being done going forward or get it done. Please look once more at what the reason was for not approving minutes, and please show this forum!!! You have asked for unedited teleconference transcripts, and have never been denied them.
    2 points
  20. Maggie, we have a lot of very knowledgeable people on the AACA Forum. However, back in the era of the pictured car, styling changed noticeably every year, and each make of car had very distinctive styling. Chrysler products (such as that Plymouth) were getting more and more unusual--some might say bizarre. So the car was easy to recognize!
    2 points
  21. I drive my rivi year round even when it rains. I am of the opinion that we only have so many miles of driving during our lifetimes so i try to spend as many as i can in my rivi. But if it snowed here i would i would not drive it in the snow. Not trying to preserve this car for any future owners.
    2 points
  22. Just joined forum, I've been a member of AACA for years, finally decided to get involved here.
    2 points
  23. 2 points
  24. Objective discussion is one thing, beating a dead horse is another. The discussion appeared to have turned into a bunch of armchair experts telling the secretary in a disrespectful way at times how to do his job. A couple of months ago all we heard here was "Where are the minutes, what takes so long for the minutes to be posted, the members need to know what's going on...." Then this month during the minutes approval process when some members not wanting to play by the rules and clearly stonewalling the process thus adding to the time taking to get the minutes out, the secretary takes an appropriate Roberts Rules action action in order to expedite the process and again here come the experts questioning the secretarys motives and telling him how to do his job.
    2 points
  25. Everyone that wants to know what was said during the January 2, 2019 meeting should request a copy of the transcript of the meeting that was recorded by AT&T. You might find it interesting.
    2 points
  26. A number of years ago, I wanted to take my Cord to the ACD meet and have it certified. The shifting had become problematic on the car, however, so I called a well known fellow in the ACD club about doing some work on the car. "Are you going to drive the car?" he asked. Yes, I said, not a tremendous amount of miles but I do plan to drive it. "Then YOU need to get into the shifting mechanism and fix it, so that you understand it. If you break down on the side of the road, YOU need to be able to figure out the problem, because I guarantee that no one else can help you...." So, I dove into the shifting issues, step by step. Yes, I'm an engineer. Yes, I'm handy, having restored numerous cars over the years with my own two hands. And I was successful in fixing it, from eliminating slack in the shifting mechanism to replacing vacuum diaphragms to sorting out the wiring and switches. The Cord shifting sequence is fairly simple, when you break it down into it's component parts. The thing that one must remember is that EVERYTHING must be in tip-top condition and EVERYTHING must work. Each shift is a sequence of events where electrical switches and routing of vacuum (solenoids) and usage of vacuum must all come together to get the correct gear engaged. I'm reminded of an HTST pasteurization machine (high temperature short time) that I became very familiar with in the dairy industry. It was simple in concept, but had SO many things that could shut it down. It, too, was a sequence of events and every event had to be dead on, I always stated that it was designed NOT to run, and only if everything was perfect would it run. The Cord shifting is similar to that..... One side note, regular engine vacuum is actually too much for the system to work properly. Of course, it's not the vacuum that's causing the force, but rather the atmospheric pressure on the other side of the diaphragms that move the shift lever. If a shift cylinder is engaged, one cannot exert enough force physically to move it from that position, it's that strong. Someone in the ACD club sells a vacuum regulator, so that you can adjust the vacuum supplied to the shift cylinders. When I was installing the copper vacuum line on my car, it accidently got crimped slightly. It so happened that it was the perfect crimp, holding back just enough vacuum to make the shifts smooth on my car! That won't win any awards judging, but neither will the rest of the car, so I left it as is....
    2 points
  27. My Special did that same heating / not cooling issue way back and changing the thermostat and flushing the rad didn't cure it. I eventually had to bite the bullet and re-core it and increased it to a three core which today keeps her running normally with the 180 degree thermostat with minimal raising in city traffic. I hope you have success with flushing as it is the easiest effort to try but be prepared... She sure is a beauty and is worth the efforts!
    2 points
  28. Thanks John. I haven’t been doing much for the past two weeks because I had something a little strange happen to me. After putting up all the cabinets and working like a crazy man screwing all kinds of things together using both my right and left hands, I woke up one morning in severe pain in my left shoulder and my left triceps. I could feel a huge knot in my shoulder blade area and it was all swollen. My wife works as a physical rehab assistant and at work the therapist gave her a small hard rubber ball for me to roll on to work the knot out. So on Thursday night I did just that and it felt better. On Friday I woke up in even more severe pain and had lost strength in my left thumb and forefinger. I couldn’t even open my hand completely and had a very hard time working on my laptop for my job. Needless to say I got very worried but I was in too much pain to even worry that much. There was nothing to ease the pain which was the worse pain I have ever felt and I’ve damaged my body pretty severely in many ways. There was nothing I could do to relieve the pain and it was constant, 24/7. I started icing and Advil’s, hot showers, more ice, and nothing, no pain relief. I actually hurt to much to even want to eat and have lost a few pounds.(actually a good thing!) I decided to go to my chiropractor to see if he could help me. That was last Friday. When he checked me out he said my shoulder was bad and it would take a few visits to get right. After my visit I felt better but Saturday morning the severe pain was back, this time even in my armpit area and left lat. Sunday again was murder and waking this morning it was still there, painful as ever. My chiropractor appointment was 8:00am this morning and when I told him how much pain I was in he said he expected that to happen because of everything he moved around. When he worked on me this morning, my neck really cracked more so than it ever has and myuppback cracked well. I got home and started working. Within a couple hours after my visit, the majority of my pain is gone and some strength has come back to my hand. Tonight making the battery plates, I can feel my hand is getting more normal. It’s still far from 100% but it’s better and that makes me feel a lot better. My buddy joe had sent enough 14 gauge steel, all cut to size , to make up two battery plates (one for me and one for him) and my passenger side floor board plate. Feeling better tonight I decided to make them up. I used my tig welder to weld a 3/8” rim around the oval hole after I made the hole using a 4” hole saw and reciprocating saw. I then drilled all the holes where they needed to be and then used the finishing washer die with my 30 ton hydraulic press to form the washers. It worked well even on the heavy 14ga steel and another project for the Olds is done.
    2 points
  29. Isn't the purpose of an open forum to allow for everyone's opinion? I'm sure there are some positive opinions of Tesla mixed in with bad ones in these pages. Mine was positive, and I have despised electric cars since the Prius first showed up.
    2 points
  30. A forum is a discussion; a website is a lecture.
    2 points
  31. The electric car is no solution to the "environmental crisis" (assuming there is one, and assuming cars are causing the problem). As stated above, you still have to generate the energy since electricity is not energy source but a conduit. Gasoline happens to be both. A "true believer" is not really interested in the engineering since they are saving the world.
    2 points
  32. Just pop on up to the Fountainhead Auto Museum in Fairbanks. They have a 1921 Daniels.
    2 points
  33. Thank you, one and all for the posted replies. I appreciate your effort. It looks like Denver is my closest encounter for a Kissel. I have had the hots for a Kissel for many years, ever since I road in the rumble seat of a Gold Bug on a Fall Foilage tour in Minnesota, back about 1966 or so. I was back home from the Army at that time. At that time that beautiful yellow Kissel belonged to Mr. and Mrs. Johnson, of Cokato, Minnesota. I finished college in 1969 and immediately hired on with The Company. In 1972 I returned from an overseas assignment and met up with the Johnson's again. At the time they had the Kissel and a beautifully restored Rickenbacher roadster for sale. The price was $7,500 for both cars. The only problem -- I was married and we only had exactly $7,500 in the bank. I try not to think about "the one that got away." As compensation I ended up with a 1935 Terraplane four door sedan at a price of $300. The Terraplane was 100 percent original, from the original owner, and it had the original battery, tires, World War Two ration stickers on the windshield, and it had 24,000 original miles. The attached photo was taken in a park in Waconia, Minnesota.
    2 points
  34. Yes, I imagine it is very hard to keep up with it all. I cannot even get ahead with just the few here. But that is a nice garage to keep em all in. Too bad we didn't live closer together. I'd be happy to help you put some miles on some of the more obscure ones. 🙄
    2 points
  35. I now have to assemble the intake manifold...something I've been putting off because I don't particularly care for the polishing I'll have to do. But, there was no putting it off now so I soldered the elbows to a short piece of tubing to hold while I filed and sanded them. They took about 2-1/2 hours each to do and I have to admit they came out pretty good. I assembled the pieces on the engine to get they straight with each other. I then stuck the interface between the threaded elbow and the flange in two places to lock it in place. Then I very carefully took it apart and soldered the elbows to the flanges. Ordinarily, I'd be a little worried about using plain lead solder here but the elbows are threaded into the flanges so all the solder is doing is holding them tight and filling whatever space there is between the male and female thread. After cleaning the elbows up, I reassembled it again and soldered the tube in place. I think it's ok... tomorrow I'll finish up the carburetor side. They certainly don't look like the pipe fittings they started life as.
    2 points
  36. I run the lathe at the lowest possible speed. It's critical that the piece being knurled be held very securely. I usually attach it to a fixture held in a chuck or directly in the chuck. You then have to get both knurling wheels in contact with the piece and absolutely parallel. Then I start the knurl with a light cut and with about half of the wheel on the piece and run it down until it's about half off. Stop the lathe, reverse direction, turn it in a little more and run it down again until it's about half off. It's critical that the wheels never come off the piece since it is virtually impossible to put them back in exactly the same place. Usually, four passes, turning it in a little each time is enough but I stop the lathe and take a look and don't pull the knurling tool back until I like the result.
    2 points
  37. Beautiful! Makes the car. Ben
    2 points
  38. 54 miles to Easter Brunch today! The day started sunny, but then threatened some rain later on. About half way home I got the chance for these shots!
    2 points
  39. Well, the extended test drive to the show today went fairly well. I am going to need to address the temperature creeping up and not wanting to come back down. I'm pretty sure I'll need to flush the system and replace the thermostat. I found out the AC WORKS! Ha! Clock works, too. I feel the car wanting to wander a little bit, but I think most of it is natural with the bias ply tires. It was happy on the highway, though. I just need to work on the temperature issue before OKC. Brakes are still not happy. I bought hoses for it, so that will be the next spot I work on.
    2 points
  40. Earl, if you'd like a little unsolicited advice that you could pass along to your selling dealer, here's what I would have done if the car arrived at my shop: 1. Remove that foam insulation on the fuel lines. It's Home Depot junk that makes people think the car has something wrong with it. And it looks like an amateur has been maintaining it. Not a good impression. 2. Remove the fender skirts. I know you like them, but they're polarizing for buyers. Keep them with the car, show photos of them, maybe one photo with the skirts installed, but otherwise I would present the car without them. They weren't standard equipment and they make the car look stubby. Skirts are the one thing that most folks can't see past and I always remove them if possible unless they were standard equipment. They change the look significantly and most people aren't really visionary enough to see past what's in front of their faces. Even if they know they come off, they can't imagine how it would look, they just know what they see. It's all about first impressions. 3. Paint the wheels red. A little contrast with the yellow car and whitewall tires would really make it pop and give it some definition. It would also tie in with the interior rather nicely. The wheels are pinstriped, and that may increase the degree of difficulty, but a quick repaint on the wheels and a simple silver pinstripe probably wouldn't cost much. We've done several cars without even removing the tires--just let the air out, break them off the bead, hold them away from the rim, then paint. Flip over and repeat. Reinflate tire and mount it on the front spindle, give it a spin, lay down a pinstripe, and it's good to go. If you want to keep the Trippe lights, keep them. Now that you've shown them in photos, it will be hard to keep them no matter what kind of discount you offer. Buyers will want the lights AND the $1000 discount and won't accept you removing parts. Too late now, they're out there, but that kind of deal usually doesn't fly. Nobody ever asks how nice a car is when they buy, they only ask how cheaply they can get it and how deeply they can reach into your pocket. Just as an FYI, I've bid on the car several times to try to kick it up over the reserve. Hope this helps and I hope it works out, it really is a lovely little car!
    2 points
  41. (AZ BARN FIND) Hello, I’m selling my 56 Imperial, car has been in AZ for most of its life. Has original complete 354 Hemi and push button auto trans (moves freely and is not frozen). Car is mostly all there minus the back of the front seat, rear center arm rest, and door panels. Due to being in the dry heat of Arizona, the interior will need work. However, the seats have been reupholstered. The headliner was replaced at one time, but the sun has begun to deteriorate it around the rear window. Car has no major rust issues just has surface rust and a few pin holes due to rat piss sitting on the original carpet (carpet has been removed). The entire front bumper section has been rechromed and is like brand new. I have all interior and exterior parts (minus what was earlier stated) to put the car back together. I am selling my car due to family issues and for the fact that i need money for school. $7500 or best offer. 509-818-8828 jeep.ster@live.com
    1 point
  42. No the Lexus and all the cars copying that ugly mouth came from this:
    1 point
  43. Looking for a trans, mount for a '63 Riv. with a dynaflow trans. I read SOMEWHERE that a jeep mount was used. ANYONE have an idea??? Besides trying to find a new original mount. TYIA Tom T.
    1 point
  44. Many years ago we rewooded an L29 Cabriolet. I can tell you for a fact there were 103 individual pieces of wood in the body not counting the doors or the rumble lid.
    1 point
  45. The thermal lock-up capability is important to the lower RPM cooling. The original equipment clutch is not nearly as efficient. However, on my Roadmaster, the OEM is very adequate. Dan
    1 point
  46. Awesome news Hugh, Big weekend for both of us! Thanks for still taking them time to message back and forth so many times with me Sir! I wish I had known you were working on your car I would not have bugged you so much!!!! Again, Congrats Sir!!!
    1 point
  47. Housewife with pinny using the new fan spray hose nozzle without getting water on the ground?
    1 point
  48. Bought it this morning.
    1 point
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