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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/20/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Hey all, I had a nice visit with my dad today. He always enjoys seeing Patsy Cline, as he is a huge animal lover, especially dogs. He asked me who I was and I told him. Then he said, “If you have any problems, just call me. I’m not saying I can solve them all, but I will try”. 💕 (I had been trying not to cry and wiping away tears, while trying to hide it from him. I get very emotional with each visit, no matter how hard I try not to. I’m actually pretty emotional all the time these days.) I completely forgot to show him the pics of the Jeepster, but I will next time. I have to be careful about sharing pics from the past, or reminding him of the past. It sometimes confuses him and brings out behavior issues, which complicates his care. This disease has taken a lot from him, and he’s not really there anymore, but it hasn’t taken his heart. I know some of you have followed my story for years and thought you might like to see a pic of him.
  2. 3 points
    Saw this on the freeway to town this afternoon. I have always loved those little cars.
  3. 3 points
    Here's a couple of shots from yesterday. Since I took them another load of gravel was put in, and smoothed out more. Today being the holiday, no work was done, but the conrete is due to be poured on Monday. Keith
  4. 2 points
    Thanks John. I doubt that seal is readily available. That is the same type seal as used in the A-5 a/c compressor and by design those seals (vs the available lip seals) will slobber a little oil. Anyhow the hub was not scored and if it was the fix nowadays would be to install a repair sleeve over the scored area. My guess is that there is a crack in either the torque converter or the front pump that spreads when hot. Somewhere I saw a bulletin that described bolting the converter together on a bench with no "innards" and pressurizing with air while dunking in a tub of water. Even then it might require hot water to find a crack. If that transmission comes out again it will go a shelf to donate parts...never to be installed! I've had all the fun I can stand.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    There are classic cars ( in the pre WWII era time span not the post war 1950s-60s era cars some people deem/define as classic ) that are still out there , in decent shape that can be purchased and enjoyed . Because they do not have multi cylinders, or open body styles that may make them not as "valuable" . Quality built cars that were at the upper end of the car market when new. As Ed mentions this is true for the series 80/81 6 cylinder Pierce Arrow as well as for the 1920s 6 cylinder Packards. Nothing wrong with the cars except the current popularity/ interest among collectors due to lack of number of cylinders . I believe Studebaker President series cars of the late 1920s fall into this category as well especially in enclosed body styles. Kinda like steak and hamburger, can be the exact same meat but one is prettier and the bragging rights about what you had will always go with what most think is more impressive by name or how it looks.
  7. 2 points
    Southern Chester Co./ Northern Delaware. This area is still not very built up, yet there are tons of things to see and do, such as Longwood Gardens, a Steam Train, Herr's Potato Chip Factory, Dupont Mansions, for example.
  8. 2 points
    I see it as all in the way of practice/ At some point I have to make the high-dome bolts that hold the wheels together so I'm anxious to work out the details. By the time I get to that, I should have a "bolt making" process sorted out. I could have used hardware store bolts and standoffs from McMaster Carr but I think this looks much more as if it was always that way.
  9. 2 points
    I hear you, my father was poor when he started out and he did well and had some nice cars along they way. I was raised to fend for myself, no silver spoon.
  10. 2 points
    I saved this '32 ET from becoming a SBC powered hot rod. He had the original engine ready to pull!
  11. 1 point
    Spotted this on Evil-bay a couple of days ago and it took me a half hour to stop laughing. So far, this is the most absurd attempt to guess the price and ID on something the seller has zip knowledge about. Nearly $7K for a simple printers block. Gawd, you could buy a complete Model T for that! Terry https://www.ebay.com/itm/1910-1918-FORD-THE-UNIVERSAL-CAR-BRONZE-EMBLEM-STAMP-ANTIQUE-MUSEUM-QUALITY/202627281235?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  12. 1 point
    Yesterday I was getting my truck smogged and had a little time on my hands. So I walked across the street to McCormick's Classic Car Auction to have a look around. I'm pretty sure someone posted a link to this car last year. It is a real beauty so I just had to share a few pics here. I have no connection with the car or the business. I just like to drop in from time to time and view the stock. Asking price is $110,000. How realistic is that? Greg
  13. 1 point
    This happens frequently when someone who is actually "flipping" cars with some success decides to branch out into an area in which he has little experience. Flipping an El Camino is just like flipping a '31 Chrysler, right? So they buy a car that looks lovely and think, "Those old guys who like old cars will pay big for this!" and ooops! You've misjudged the market just like that. I've done several trades with other dealers who have something like this in their inventory and don't know what to do with it. After unsuccessfully flogging it, they call me, I trade them a muscle car for their pre-war car and everyone is happy. Expertise matters. Without the knowledge merely pricing a car can be difficult, but talking to a buyer without the knowledge can make selling it impossible. It's exactly why I don't deal in exotics.
  14. 1 point
    I would be interested,for the cave.
  15. 1 point
    Automotive snake oil.
  16. 1 point
    Tom, Yes, it is hard to believe that a government agency would give wrong or misleading information. I am thinking that certain 1st class does not get tracking like letters or large envelopes. Maybe it is an e-bay thing. I have shipped 1st class from the post office from time to time and don't recall if there was a tracking number or not. I would be curious to know what you find out. Bill
  17. 1 point
    Due to a sort vacation, I had no time to look at your thread. What you are doing is nice; I like it!
  18. 1 point
    For the average use of a 1930's collector car I wouldn't bother with an oil filter. Although mine are newer, I change the oil in my cars every year. They range from 500 miles to, maybe, 1200 between changes. As my Wife will willingly tell anyone, I make sure I drive a minimum of 10-15 miles when I start a car. Even if I am moving it from one side of the garage to the other. And looking out my window today the cold rain is doing a great job of washing particles out of the air. Bernie
  19. 1 point
    We laugh at those prices, but these museums pay more for a lot less. Case in point, The Henry Ford recently bought an Apple 1 computer, just an open printed circuit board, no case, old keyboard with no case, a 5" black and white TV and a small cassette tape deck, they paid right at one million dollars for it. Years ago, there was a guy had a Locomobile steam engine, he ran an ad in the paper, he wanted $100,000 dollars for it. I doubt he sold it. -Ron
  20. 1 point
    Terry, I am quite surprised you did not jump on that bargain!
  21. 1 point
    "Notsoeasyouts" often work well in steel; VIRTUALLY NEVER IN BRASS! A carburetor is a perfect example of a Galvanic cell (two dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid). In this case one has aluminum, brass, and gasoline. Ion flow takes place and beads of corrosion build up in the threads, making the jets difficult to remove. There is a method that always works, once perfected; BUT IT SHOULD BE PERFECTED ON A SERIES OF JUNK CARBURETORS! Bill of materials: (1) Set of left-handed drill bits THAT YOU HAVE DELIBERATELY DULLED (2) Reversible drill (3) Empty 5-gallon bucket (4) Piece of 1-inch foam rubber (for the bottom of the bucket) (5) Acetylene torch with jewelers tip Procedure: (1) Fill the bucket approximately 3/4 full with water (2) Light the torch, and adjust to a pencil flame (3) Rotate the point of the flame on the periphery of the jet, always moving in a circle, always on the brass. (4) When the color of the flame changes from blue to yellow-green, drop the casting in the bucket of water. (5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 (6) Spray liberally with your favorite brand of penetrating oil. (7) Using the left-handed drill bit of the appropriate size and the reversible drill, gouge the jet, and it will spin out. It should be noted here that using this procedure with a stubborn jet to begin with, will never allow the jet to lose its slot. Not that I am advocating reusing jets, but a screwdriver is easier than the drill. AGAIN, PERFECT THIS PROCEDURE ON CARBS THAT YOU CAN THROW AWAY! Why it works: The heat will burn the oxygen from the corrosion molecules thereby reducing the physical space they occupy in the threads. This allows a good penetrating oil to lubricate the threads, and the left-handed turning action will spin out the jet. And yes, I HAVE removed literally hundreds of jets using this method. CAVIAT TO THOSE THAT APPLY ANYTHING TO ANYTHING: This is not meant as a generic fix, rather a fix in working with the Carter AFB castings. The melting temperature of aluminum (the base metal of the Carter AFB casting) is maybe twice the melting temperature of zinc alloy. Thus, if one tries this method on a zinc-alloy body, one must be extremely careful. The method will still work, but there is zero margin for error (i.e. the flame slipping from the jet onto the casting). EDIT: For those that think maybe the notsoeasyout would work instead of the drill, consider: the force to "grab" the jet applied by the notsoeasyout is virtually sideways, thus pushing the soft brass against the side of the casting, and creating additional friction, whereas the force exerted by the drill is virtually in the same plane as the drill, not creating additional friction. But try it if you will. I was never successful, but it might work for others. Jon.
  22. 1 point
    Amen to that. If the price of owning cars like that is being a member of that family, I'll thank God for my somewhat rusty drivers. (Thankfully there are are tons of great people who also own and build top tier show cars.)
  23. 1 point
    Oh. Just south of Keene. In the town of Swanzey. The old gent that had it could get in it. But could not get out after he sat down in the big old low rider seat.
  24. 1 point
    So, Could not help myself. Bought a 1971 Ford LTD Rag Top and have been working a few bugs out of it. Nothing is in full bloom here quite yet but it is not far away. There was still piles of snow over in New Hampshire where I picked up the car and then brought it back the Hudson Valley.
  25. 1 point
    Haven't posted in awhile. Been working on required maintenance on the house and my 97 Dakota was demanding some attention. I have been collecting pieces-parts for the instrument cluster. It's now fully functional, but needs a few finishing touches... paint the bracket, find some material that goes on the guages that the instrument lamp shines through, and make some cork rings to seal the glass lenses. I couldn't find the exact ignition coil lock switch, but found one that I modified to work, and it came with the door lock cylinder with matching keys. I delled a hole thru the cluster bracket and welded a steel screw to it thru the hole to hold the key switch in place On my agenda is to get my broken loose fuel tank baffle repaired and have the tank sealed...luckily it is actually in good structural condition. Also am still twiddling with aligning the front end body panels/parts (front fenders, radiator and shell, running boards and skirts, and the hood and cab) it's close, but something is up because I cannot get everything to meet up with all mounting holes without oxerflexing some things... and I want to get the electrical hooked up so I can fire the motor...I have been cranking it with the starter to keep the oil pushed around.
  26. 1 point
    Quote: "Riker was the lead engineer at Locomobile and was probably the "behind the scenes" designer of many of the early Locomobile automobiles." Andrew Riker did work with them, he was definitely one of the unsung hero's of that era. I keep seeing his name pop up. From what I can tell he started out building electric cars, then worked with Locomobile and Stanley on steam vehicles, and then went to work with Locomobile full on when they transitioned to gas engines and headed up their truck division. As I understand it, Whitney was their first head engineer in the steam era. Here is what an internet search just turned up: From this page: http://www.kcstudio.com/riker.html SAE's first president was Andrew L. Riker, an early pioneer of electric vehicles who later produced the Locomobile Company's first gasoline-powered car. Riker served as SAE president for three years, 1905 through 1907. Born in 1868, he produced his first electric car in 1894, using a pair of Remington bicycles as a base. Like the Columbia companies, which had several names and incantations during their run, the Riker companies had three names of incorporation plus two different home locations during their existence from 1896-1902. As listed in The Encyclopedia of American Automobiles published in 1971, these were Riker Electric Motor Company, Brooklyn, N Y. (l896-l899), Riker Electric Vehicle Company, Elizabethport, NJ (l899-l900), and Riker Motor Vehicle Company, Elizabethport, NJ (l90l-l902). The company became one of the country's leading manufacturers of electric vehicles, including cars, trucks, vans and trolleys. Rikers were combined and distributed with Columbias until the company was finally absorbed by Electric Vehicle Co and the brand ceased to be used for automobiles. Riker gained acclaim for his development of high-speed electric cars. In 1901, his electric-powered racer "The Riker Torpedo" set a world speed record for electric cars that stood for ten years. Five-ton electric trucks produced by the Riker Company were in use in New York City in the early 1900s. Riker became vice-president of the Locomobile Company in 1902, overseeing the firm's production of automobiles powered by two- and four-cylinder internal combustion engines. His design of the company's first gasoline-propelled car included many features which were largely unfamiliar to the American market, including a sliding gear transmission, steel frame, and gear-driven electric generator. In 1904, he designed a special 90-horespower racing car, and in 1908, he developed Locomobile's "Old 16," the first American car to win an international race (the Vanderbilt Cup). The victory boosted the reputation of American automotive engineering throughout the world. In the World War I era, Riker/Locomobile trucks were very popular, and heavily advertised in publications such as Scientific Americanand The Saturday Evening Post. Riker was appointed to the U.S. Naval Consulting Board in 1915, chairing the board's committee on internal combustion motors. Riker died in 1930. Three Riker electric vehicles, including a truck and a racer, are housed at the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn, Michigan. The book Andrew L. Riker and The Electric Car - A Biography of the Young Riker by Neal Donovan, published by McPherson College Press in 2003, chronicles Riker's early experiments, his contributions to the fields of electricity and transportation, and his business dealings.
  27. 1 point
    Beautiful work Joe. Having done some like this myself in the past, I can really appreciate your work. The average person only gets as close as inserting or removing a bolt, never thinking twice about them. Making them, especially custom ones like these which actually are still kind of simple in design, gives a whole different appreciation for something lots of us use everyday.
  28. 1 point
    Finally got the Motor back together and it ran about 2 minutes and the Oil Pump Shaft Seized up. The washer under the pump shaft got on top of the pin that holds it in place. This happened when I replaced the low distributor with the high distributor housing. Thanks to a member of the Franklin Club I got a replacement shaft and it fixed the problem. I was fortunate that the only damage was the oil pump gear. The cam gear destroyed the oil pump gear and not the gear on the cam that drives it..
  29. 1 point
    Same vendor and product I used.
  30. 1 point
    I used to know a Lamborghini importer who would pick up a car in Italy, drive it a few miles in Europe for 31 days, and it became a "used car". Then the formerly non-compliant vehicle was brought over and sold. I don't know if there was a no crash test problem, or glass & emissions. The Importer was from Castle Rock, Colorado, and this was 1971. I wonder if this would work today? Sounds like a fun job.........I have a passport if similar services are needed!
  31. 1 point
    Floor mat. I got mine from a store that sells cleaning supplies etc to industrial users. They had difference widths and sold it by the foot.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Just had the '25 Buick out for it's first run of 2019, sporting it's new correct stirrup door handles, flip up dogbone rad cap and accessory front bumper. Katching ! Jim
  34. 1 point
    "Every picture tells a story, don't it" -Turner
  35. 1 point
    That’s a beauty! (The car and the landscape too).
  36. 1 point
    10k is a good starting point. the woodwork is an immense task to do correctly. the rest of the car would need to be gone through as well. the woody market has become a bit "soft".
  37. 1 point
    Buick Reatta 2 Door Coupe 1990 - $5000 (Rome, GA) https://nwga.craigslist.org/cto/d/rome-buick-reatta-2-door-coupe-1990/6827382281.html
  38. 1 point
    Thats the preserved barn find dust Tom! Some people like that kind of originality.
  39. 0 points
    I thought the first photo was the actual car, and when I saw the price, I thought wow! Sure was disappointed when I clicked on the next photo.......😟
  40. 0 points
  41. 0 points
    My 56’, someone prior to me had shoved small pieces of rag in the transmission cooler lines where they unscrewed from the tranny and then reinstalled them without taking out the rag pieces. That is what cooked my oil in the tranny. Matt