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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/19/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
  2. 6 points
    Thanks everyone for all of the replies. I have decided to purchase the car and have started working on it already. I appreciate all of the information you have given me, and all of the useful information on this site in general. You will for sure see some threads started from me for some help along the way (after i use the search function of course)!
  3. 5 points
    Ta da! Doing epoxy on the floors today.
  4. 5 points
    Well, another update! After I got her back on the road running again, turn signals started to play up. I had already invested what seemed half a lifetime troubleshooting the LEDs, so I went back to the good old incandescent 6volt globes. This gave great results, bright and easy to see and a reasonable flash rate. My only issue that I need to monitor is the heat generated by the bulbs. My light lenses appear to be made of a plastic material, not glass, so will see how they fair. BTW this series 40 did not have the front side lights remain lit when the headlights were turned on, so I moved the wire on the switch one place forward. And now they stay on with the headlights, look so much nicer at night. Our switches for the RHD version are much simpler and don’t have the 4 positions stated in the shop manual. Possibly GM-H used a Pontiac or Chevrolet switch for cost saving and standardisation down under! Took her out for her first run at night since upgrading the head lights lights with 6V relays. Nice and bright, but my aiming is way way off as all I can see is the koala bears in the gum trees. But we are getting there, next step is to install the heater I got some time back, and some seat belts! Photos from a recent local coffee n cars we have in our town, with a run out to a speed boat Aquafest event on the river. Fast and loud! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  5. 4 points
    If you don't want your wheels to fall off your brake drums while you're driving down the road, buy the correct 9/16-18 lug bolts. The chrome-plated ones were OEM on Buicks with the chrome-plated 1953-1954 Buick Skylark wire wheels and are advertised on Page 65 in CARS' catalog . . . http://www.oldbuickparts.com/pdf/cat360/36005.pdf Al Malachowski BCA #8965 "500 Miles West of Flint"
  6. 3 points
    I finished up the special intake bolts today. The next step was to turn the diameter that will be threaded. I then single pointed them about 85% of the way. And then screwed them into a die. This gives you nice uniform threads that are really straight. It's practically impossible to start a die on the end of a piece like this and really have it run straight. (Or at least it is for me) but cutting away most of the material first, in the lathe, ensures that the die will run straight. Then I shortened the heads - the extra material was there to provide a better grip in the hex collet. I then set up the radius tool and put a slight crown on them. All done.
  7. 3 points
    1936 Dodge Brothers D2. Upper left....
  8. 3 points
    Thanks Pat. I have already started acquiring some of the items necessary for the transition. I have the covers for the front buckets and new upper seat foam for the front buckets as well. Bill
  9. 3 points
    It doesn't need to leak much. My Pontiac doesn't ever even get any on the ground, but if you put your finger under there there is always a drop. I estimate it leaks a drop every 20 minutes or so, and probably evaporates before it ever hits the ground. It is normal for a packing style pump to leak. It is apple farming country where I live, and big irrigation pumps that use packing nuts are still very common here. When someone tightens a packing nut enough that the leak completely stops, the shaft burns up almost immediately, and the repair is very expensive. For the lubricant in your coolant to lubricate the packing, it needs to get between the packing and the shaft. There really isn't any way around this. It is a separate issue from lubricating the bushings. Those usually either use water pump grease through a zerk, or oil through an oil cup, depending on the design. If you insist on no leakage at all, you might be better served to modify the pump for modern bearings and ceramic seals, as used on modern cars that do not normally leak anything from the water pump. The only trouble with that idea is that when it starts leaking, you need another rebuilt pump immediately. The guy with a packing pump just tightens the nut a little.
  10. 3 points
    Took the Jeepster for a ride today.
  11. 3 points
  12. 2 points
    Kendall Jenner with Jay Leno and her ‘56 Corvette. It’s a 98 point car: https://www.cnbc.com/video/2016/11/29/kendall-jenners-56-corvette-is-the-real-deal.html She took Jay for a ride and he asked her the question all car guys want to ask a beautiful, young women. I like her answer. https://www.cnbc.com/video/2016/12/01/supermodel-kendall-jenner-takes-jay-leno-for-a-spin-in-her-56-corvette.html
  13. 2 points
    Keiser31, they are a LOT of fun ! We had ours for 11 years and it was a hoot every time we started it or drove it ! If you are very large, have a stiff back, or have a left leg, they can be a bit crowded tho, ha !
  14. 2 points
    Here's a couple of shots from yesterday. Since I took them another load of gravel was put in, and smoothed out more. Today being the holiday, no work was done, but the conrete is due to be poured on Monday. Keith
  15. 2 points
    I hear you, my father was poor when he started out and he did well and had some nice cars along they way. I was raised to fend for myself, no silver spoon.
  16. 2 points
    No disrespect Victoria, but if I could ride on the coat tails of my family's fame { infamy ? } instead of having to rely on my self made way in life I might have a 100 pointer or two myself. At least the young lady in question seems to have decent taste in cars. What little I know about her clan makes me think taste is a bit scarce. Greg
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Now that I've finished punching all the morons who say, "You should call Jay Leno, he buys old cars," I've started punching the dopes who say, "You should send it to Barrett-Jackson and get really big money for it."
  19. 2 points
    LEAKS! 1- Water pump: the 5/16 bolts that go thru the timing cover even though I slathered the threads (permatex aviation form a gasket) like I alway do. No big deal, drain the coolant and this time use teflon tape like used on ford flatheads. (last time the pump was changed in a motel parking lot in Idaho all I used for sealer on the gasket and bolts was some bearing grease which lasted for 80K miles). 2- Noticed that radiator petcock would not seal completely. No problem, just change it. Not!! After an hour of fiddling the radiator tank was deforming. Off to the radiator shop where they twisted a hole. I brought them a spare tank to install. 3- THE LEAK: dynaflow has been dry on short 10-20 mile trips, but is leaking from behind the torque converter again after a long hot highway run. I'm gonna try a few things before I line up a different transmission to have rebuilt. Stay tuned
  20. 2 points
    We've had two 1940s Diamond Ts and they both wore such an emblem, so it's at least '40s if not earlier. This was a '48 and the most spectacular single vehicle I've ever had: This was a '42 that was somewhat modified (obviously):
  21. 2 points
    Here is the listing: https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/clayton-1950-buick-super-eight/6849535359.html
  22. 2 points
    As i just got the Doctors OK to start really walking again I hope to get started as soon as the weather cooperates. Maybe by the end of April if anything goes right.
  23. 2 points
    Update: Had a few conversations with George at Harmon Classic Brakes which seems to be the source for all the rebuild kits that everyone uses. A few bits of good information that he gave me: ’65 is what he referred to as a “crossover year.” There was a strike at GM at the time and Buick was putting whatever boosters they had just to get them out of the factory which is the reason some ‘65’s have a Delco Moraine, some have a Bendix or, like mine you have a dealer installed Bendix Master Vac 9”. After removing the booster, I began disassembling it according to the shop manual following the instructions for the Delco Moraine unit (because, best I could tell, that’s what I thought I was dealing with). It quickly became apparent that I am not equipped with tools with enough torque to pop the housing open. I snapped a few photos and sent them off to George and he advised me that I, in fact, had the dealer installed Bendix Master Vac unit and that that particular model is near impossible to crack open without specialty tools. Also that, even if I did get it open without damaging it, there’s a good chance of the spring damaging me. I promptly heeded his advice, boxed it up and shipped it off to be rebuilt which is where I’m presently at. They do have all the rebuild kits at Harmon that come with a lot of good information. Their prices and expertise seem to be on par with Booster Dewey.
  24. 2 points
    Finally got Max out for a long drive. Headed down to the fingerlakes area and snagged a couple pics. Started out the drive getting some cupcakes from the cupcake place in Pittsford, where a group of kids posed for their own picture with Max, I wasn't able to get a shot myself though. Then a nice drive down through Bloomfield to Canandaigua Lake for pics. not very sunny, but what a great drive
  25. 2 points
    If they're on a '53, they're definitely not metric like you've mentioned. I think you should be looking for 1/2" x 20 bolts. Take one of you existing ones to your local hardware store and see where it fits into the bolt guide. I don't think I've ever seen chrome lug bolts. You might wind up putting studs in and going with lug nuts.
  26. 2 points
    I think Peter is saying "in this case I am OK with it". I will make a somewhat automotive contribution : I have only seen Notre Dame once. In December of 1968, I bought a little Citroën 2CV van in Copenhagen. I paid $100 for it. The "Gringo" who sold it to me could not solve a vexing problem which caused it to stop running frequently and regularly. Didn't take me, a licensed pilot, too terribly long to recognize carb icing, and cure it. Bouncing and slipstreaming (absolutely amazing how little throttle you need when you are 18" off the bumper of the"tow truck"!!!!), my way South on the "Europe on $5 a day" trail, I drove into Paris over snowy roads being fueled by the still falling snow. The sure-footed thing had plenty of traction, and had got me there through significant snow in Germany also. I had a wonderful time wandering around Paris, and even went to Napoleon's Tomb. All the cars on the road back then would be considered old now, and some of them actually were at the time. I recall being somewhat unimpressed with the Parisian drivers, but I found the Paris Metro to be a fantastic way to get from point A to point B. Left Paris and Notre Dame, headed down to the French Riviera. 2CV running well. Now, temperatures not being so cold, occasionally the little van served as "home" for a night. 1968-'69 was about the very best time ever for someone to be in their 20s. Staying in Mougins above Antibes and Monaco, exploring the area, watching the Monte Carlo Rallye cars come and go, the temporary Danish girlfriend, the big bowls of mussels, with 1/2 baguette and a glass of red wine for 1f25centime (about two bits at the then exchange rate), at Chez Jacquie in the back streets of Nice, pretty hard to beat for me and the faithful 2CV. Etc. So long ago, now. Most of the little I can remember comes to me more as a dream than a memory. Did I REALLY see those 3 or 4 Bugattis in a garage while cruising the hills with Grethe at my side ? She was at my side when I understood over French radio that one of their great wartime heroes had just died. That does come in full memory context. Perhaps you too remember where you were when you heard. President, 5 Star General Dwight D. Eisenhower. Oh how I wish we had one of such wisdom. Memories or dreams, idyllic, innocent times. With such relatively pleasant, sunny weather, I sold the Citroën, and hitch hiked into Spain. And that is my automotive contribution to my cloudy memories of Notre Dame. - Citroën Carl
  27. 2 points
    I seem to be having a good day so I decided I might as well try the next step. I put the bearing on a mandrel and turned it down to the finished size... 1.925 It fit just about perfectly... All that is left is to make the oil pockets and the oil groove. Then, because I have to finish the intake manifold in order to get measurements to finish the oil manifold I soldered one of the elbows to a spare piece of tubing. This is to hold it while I file and sand. I also started on the special bolts with built-in standoffs that will hold the manifold on... This is also an experiment in making identical pieces, something that is a lot more demanding than most people think.
  28. 2 points
    I was not yet completely ready with sheet metal: the doors were waiting. The ones on the car were really bad. I contacted a known supplier in the USA; (he does advertise in the Self-Starter, the Cadillac club magazine) he said that he had a good pair of doors. I asked again about rust and he said that he spent the whole Sunday with his son to inspect them and they are excellent. OK, please ship them! Well, I don't know what for glasses he had at the time; maybe the ones to observe a sun's eclipse: they were as bad as mines (or they rusted in the plane between USA and Europe). So with 4 doors, I could do 2, but I had to weld some new sheetmetal; the lower outside panels were also made from scratch for both doors. Are you surprised if I don't buy anything anymore at this location?
  29. 2 points
    Breakfast run today! It drew some attention! And then wrapped up with a sunset this evening...
  30. 2 points
    Just had the '25 out for it's first run of 2019, sporting it's new accessory front bumper,flip up dogbone rad cap,and correct stirrup door handles. Geez, plating is expensive now.
  31. 2 points
    Well, problem solved. Turn signals working as they should, one side at a time. Park lights working too, independent of turn signal. Many thanks to all and sundry for help and advice. And with the parcel arriving today with a replacement ammeter, oil and gas caps and wiring clips it felt like Christmas 😀😀 happy Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Look at the link I sent and see if it looks right.
  34. 1 point
    In a Turbo 400 or ST 400, reverse is immediately after park, then neutral and drive.
  35. 1 point
    As I said it's probably something to do with the perlin size as well that connects the trusses. I imagine a steel truss might be stronger than a wood one, as the wood ones of larger sizes have to be pieced along the top and bottom bands where the steel ones can be one piece. I got a little soffit up on mine between yesterday and today but with the wife under the weather, I have had alot of her duties shifted to me as well as caring for the kids, school etc. Got on my lift today went up, put one band board on the siding to finish it off (of course it had a bow to it). Got the first fastener in so the 16 foot board was hanging by that, then out of nowhere the sky's opened up and got me drenched. I worked through it to get it up. Of course nothing like working under Niagara falls wit hteh eves running, I called it quit and put the lift inside, then it stopped and never rained again the rest of the evening. Figures. There is a higher power working against me I think. Nice to see the quick progress on yours.
  36. 1 point
    We can get quite a bit of snow, for this area, 2-3 feet. Doug, this is what is often called a pole barn, and it is insulated, r18 in the walls and roof, and I think something like r30 for the wall nearest the other garage, as it has to be a firewall. Also, the floor is have about r18 in it as well, then 6+ in of concrete.
  37. 1 point
    I sure love my camera on my cell phone! There are just some places I can't get my head into to see what is going on. Take a picture with the cellphone and there it is! Changed the oil in the Hupp today and added the oil, 9 quarts, and I couldn't see the gauge on the block. Snap a picture and bam, it is right on the full mark. Without the camera I couldn't even read the markings! Technology is great!!!! I am now ready for cars shows.
  38. 1 point
    Ron, You mentioned that many of the earlier Locomobiles were replicas or made up. Is there anyone tracking the survivors and showing them as such, simiiar to what is done on the Stanley Register? I assume that the whereabouts of the early cars is well known. Several come to mind such as the 1899 Warren Weiant car and the 1900 Stan Tarnopol car, both of which were AACA award winning cars years ago. In addition, the 1900(?) Bob Lyon car restored meticulously by Dick French around 1950 is another example of older restorations of Locomobiles that were not made up. Do you know where these cars are today and where the later 1901 and 1902 survivors are?
  39. 1 point
    That’s what we are here for. All of us have questions on this beast of a motor. I believe a number of guys on this forum know more about the v-12 than the Lincoln engineers who designed it. Good luck.
  40. 1 point
    Coolant operating temperatures: These are exerpts of the bulletin.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I was wanting to address a few items and hopefully not overlap the good advise you have already received. The water pump shaft is steel. Some people do run straight water, but water is very aggressive and I strongly advise that you use 50/50 green antifreeze for both the anti corrosion and lubricating properties. I have personally installed Evans lifetime coolant in my car and I hope to be able to report good things after the car is running. If the car has been sitting, rust forms on the shaft and that makes the surface rough and then that shortens the life of the packing. Everyone today rebuilds the pumps using a stainless steel shaft. The option is staying with packing or converting to a lip seal for the pump. My preference is a lip seal, as they do not require the maintenance of packing. The seal has a circular spring that maintains constant pressure and compensates for wear. The lip seal should also be a high dollar graphite teflon lip seal and not just buna like you find for an oil seal. both will work, but the more expensive one will last longer. As stated, the packing should be tightened just enough to make the leak have an occasional drip. I prefer to tighten them when the engine is running and avoid overtightening. You may have enough old packing, or you may need to add more packing. The amount of rust on the shaft will determine the life of the packing. As the car is run, the leaking should reduce. You should always be able to see just a little of the antifreeze in the radiator. You can stop adding as soon as it comes into view while you are looking down into the fill neck. You will always want to have some head space. You want to make sure the overflow tube is never plugged. We have dirt dobber wasps that like to find that tubing. In theory, you have more pressure on the packing or seal while the pump is spinning as the impeller is creating pressure. The amount of leaking when the engine is off all depends on how bad the wear is on your shaft . 1925 and earlier Buicks have packing on each side of the pump since our shafts drive the starter/generator. Consider yourself lucky that we have twice the fun. This is a photo of my shaft. I have a bushing on each side of the impeller and the packing is outboard of the bushings. I only labeled one side. The bushing surface is at least close in diameter to the impeller section of shaft. You can see how rough the packing area is, and the difficulty you face getting it to seal when they have gotten overly rusty. Hugh
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Hey, Welcome, I have an expression, and most of the guys here can attest to this, "You do it for Love, not Money"! That said, you ask a fair question, is it worth it, and is your granddad getting a good deal. It can be very difficult to sell vintage cars, it can take months or years, to try to get the value a price guide says its' worth. You need to find the right person, as there are lovers of all of the 100 + years of all the makes, model, and endless variations in cars. In my, partly educated view, the $6,000 is a fair price. That said, it sounds like you just might be that "right guy"! I'm partial to '56's, as I've had one for 40+ years, and I have personally driven the car in excess of 100,000 miles. They don't drive like modern cars, but these cars drive good, and are comfortable, as long as everything is up to scratch. The Dynaflow is slow off of the line compared to newer ones, but, will cruise at today's highway speeds. Forgive me if you know this already. It also helps to be mechanically inclined, as they need service from time to time, and depending in what kind of use its' had recently, you might need to do a bunch of maint related things, if you are going to drive it quite a bit. If you have issues to solve, there is considerable knowledge here that can help you out. Lastly, nice to hear of your interest, and please keep us posted as to how it goes, plus we're all like kids too, as we like pictures to look at! Keith
  45. 1 point
    I will say that virtually every guy who brings a hot rod in to sell in my shop says the same thing: it's boring. I don't know what their goal was when they started or what they expected, but it's rarely what they want when it's done. I don't even think they know what they want, only that they've convinced themselves that an old car isn't what they want. That mindset probably comes from what they've heard from other people or things they assume about old cars being unreliable or hard to drive (you should hear how many grown men whine about needing power steering, but that's another story for another day). I bet the owner of that Chrysler will say it drives like a modern car. Unfortunately, I already have a modern car. What I don't have is a car that drives like a 1940 Chrysler New Yorker.
  46. 1 point
    Without checking the prints, would guess that the shafts are unique to the dual quad carbs. Repeat, this is a guess. The throttle plates often are not unique. There is generally no reason to replace the shafts other than the efforts of Dr. Goodpliers (you know, the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench). The methods described earlier in this thread work, and work well. New throttle shafts can be machined by ANY competent machine shop that is interested in doing the work. A skilled enthusiast can do the work provided the enthusiast has a lathe and milling machine. One first needs to index the "double D" on the end of the shafts with the slot. Now one can first cut the slot using a milling machine and a "slitting saw". Once this has been done, the holes for the screws may be cut and threaded, and the double D on one or both ends of the shaft cut. Now the original throttle arm may be installed on the correct side sliding over the machined double D, and peening to retain. New throttle plates are more difficult, but may be done by a good machine shop. The first step is to take a piece of round metal bar, and turn it to the diameter of the throttle bore. Now the tricky part is to cut the shaft into two shafts at an angle the same as the closing angle of the throttle plates (Carter generally stamped this angle on the plates). Once the metal bar has been cut and both bars trued, two holes should be drilled into the two pieces of bar representing the position of the holes in the throttle plates. The holes in one of the shafts should be threaded, and studs installed. The holes in the other end should be just sufficiently large to slip over the studs. Now, measure the thickness of the existing throttle plates, and acquire flat metal of the same type (brass, aluminum, etc.) and thickness. Cut "blanks" which are larger than the largest diameter of the plates. Drill holes to represent the screw holes in each of the blanks. Slide the blanks over the studs in the end of the shaft with studs, slide on the other end, and secure with nuts on the studs. Place the shaft with studs into a four-jaw chuck on your lathe, and CENTER. Now, turn down the portion of the "blanks" to where the blanks are smooth with the shafts. Remove the nuts, the end cap shaft, and FINISHED throttle plates. Each will have the correct closing angle. Jon.
  47. 1 point
    I have just noted that the side tiller, used by Locomobile, is very similar to that unit as used on a Holsman. I wonder if there is a relationship in the sourcing of parts? I just can't imagine riding one of these narrow steam cars, at speed, with the center of gravity high like it is! In 1900 we still had plenty to learn for sure. Al
  48. 1 point
    Some of the old service manuals, in the carb rebuild section, showed how to remove those throttle plate screws during the rebuild process. How to go to the backside, use a flat file, and file-off the bradded threads on the backside of each screw. Which "staked" them into place. Once that lip was removed, then the screw came out normally. After the soak and clean-up, then the plates were repositioned on the throttle shaft and new screws were installed, suitably "staking" them on the bac side of the shaft. After about the middle '60s, that section wasn't in the manuals any more. As the positioning of the throttle plates with respect to the idle and transition slots in the primary (on a 4bbl) throttle bores became more important for emissions controls and such. Once you get things all apart, IF the carb is the correct one for your car, you might consider getting those throttle shafts bushed so you don't go through this again. The cost of which Carbking is referring to? NTX5467