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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/19/2019 in all areas

  1. Thanks everyone for all of the replies. I have decided to purchase the car and have started working on it already. I appreciate all of the information you have given me, and all of the useful information on this site in general. You will for sure see some threads started from me for some help along the way (after i use the search function of course)!
    6 points
  2. Ta da! Doing epoxy on the floors today.
    5 points
  3. Well, another update! After I got her back on the road running again, turn signals started to play up. I had already invested what seemed half a lifetime troubleshooting the LEDs, so I went back to the good old incandescent 6volt globes. This gave great results, bright and easy to see and a reasonable flash rate. My only issue that I need to monitor is the heat generated by the bulbs. My light lenses appear to be made of a plastic material, not glass, so will see how they fair. BTW this series 40 did not have the front side lights remain lit when the headlig
    5 points
  4. If you don't want your wheels to fall off your brake drums while you're driving down the road, buy the correct 9/16-18 lug bolts. The chrome-plated ones were OEM on Buicks with the chrome-plated 1953-1954 Buick Skylark wire wheels and are advertised on Page 65 in CARS' catalog . . . http://www.oldbuickparts.com/pdf/cat360/36005.pdf Al Malachowski BCA #8965 "500 Miles West of Flint"
    4 points
  5. I finished up the special intake bolts today. The next step was to turn the diameter that will be threaded. I then single pointed them about 85% of the way. And then screwed them into a die. This gives you nice uniform threads that are really straight. It's practically impossible to start a die on the end of a piece like this and really have it run straight. (Or at least it is for me) but cutting away most of the material first, in the lathe, ensures that the die will run straight. Then I shortened the heads - the extra
    3 points
  6. 1936 Dodge Brothers D2. Upper left....
    3 points
  7. Thanks Pat. I have already started acquiring some of the items necessary for the transition. I have the covers for the front buckets and new upper seat foam for the front buckets as well. Bill
    3 points
  8. It doesn't need to leak much. My Pontiac doesn't ever even get any on the ground, but if you put your finger under there there is always a drop. I estimate it leaks a drop every 20 minutes or so, and probably evaporates before it ever hits the ground. It is normal for a packing style pump to leak. It is apple farming country where I live, and big irrigation pumps that use packing nuts are still very common here. When someone tightens a packing nut enough that the leak completely stops, the shaft burns up almost immediately, and the repair is very expensive. For the lubr
    3 points
  9. Took the Jeepster for a ride today.
    3 points
  10. Kendall Jenner with Jay Leno and her ‘56 Corvette. It’s a 98 point car: https://www.cnbc.com/video/2016/11/29/kendall-jenners-56-corvette-is-the-real-deal.html She took Jay for a ride and he asked her the question all car guys want to ask a beautiful, young women. I like her answer. https://www.cnbc.com/video/2016/12/01/supermodel-kendall-jenner-takes-jay-leno-for-a-spin-in-her-56-corvette.html
    2 points
  11. Keiser31, they are a LOT of fun ! We had ours for 11 years and it was a hoot every time we started it or drove it ! If you are very large, have a stiff back, or have a left leg, they can be a bit crowded tho, ha !
    2 points
  12. Here's a couple of shots from yesterday. Since I took them another load of gravel was put in, and smoothed out more. Today being the holiday, no work was done, but the conrete is due to be poured on Monday. Keith
    2 points
  13. I hear you, my father was poor when he started out and he did well and had some nice cars along they way. I was raised to fend for myself, no silver spoon.
    2 points
  14. No disrespect Victoria, but if I could ride on the coat tails of my family's fame { infamy ? } instead of having to rely on my self made way in life I might have a 100 pointer or two myself. At least the young lady in question seems to have decent taste in cars. What little I know about her clan makes me think taste is a bit scarce. Greg
    2 points
  15. 2 points
  16. Now that I've finished punching all the morons who say, "You should call Jay Leno, he buys old cars," I've started punching the dopes who say, "You should send it to Barrett-Jackson and get really big money for it."
    2 points
  17. LEAKS! 1- Water pump: the 5/16 bolts that go thru the timing cover even though I slathered the threads (permatex aviation form a gasket) like I alway do. No big deal, drain the coolant and this time use teflon tape like used on ford flatheads. (last time the pump was changed in a motel parking lot in Idaho all I used for sealer on the gasket and bolts was some bearing grease which lasted for 80K miles). 2- Noticed that radiator petcock would not seal completely. No problem, just change it. Not!! After an hour of fiddling the radiator tank was deforming. Off to the radiator
    2 points
  18. We've had two 1940s Diamond Ts and they both wore such an emblem, so it's at least '40s if not earlier. This was a '48 and the most spectacular single vehicle I've ever had: This was a '42 that was somewhat modified (obviously):
    2 points
  19. Here is the listing: https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/clayton-1950-buick-super-eight/6849535359.html
    2 points
  20. As i just got the Doctors OK to start really walking again I hope to get started as soon as the weather cooperates. Maybe by the end of April if anything goes right.
    2 points
  21. Update: Had a few conversations with George at Harmon Classic Brakes which seems to be the source for all the rebuild kits that everyone uses. A few bits of good information that he gave me: ’65 is what he referred to as a “crossover year.” There was a strike at GM at the time and Buick was putting whatever boosters they had just to get them out of the factory which is the reason some ‘65’s have a Delco Moraine, some have a Bendix or, like mine you have a dealer installed Bendix Master Vac 9”. After removing the booster, I began disassembling it according to the shop ma
    2 points
  22. Finally got Max out for a long drive. Headed down to the fingerlakes area and snagged a couple pics. Started out the drive getting some cupcakes from the cupcake place in Pittsford, where a group of kids posed for their own picture with Max, I wasn't able to get a shot myself though. Then a nice drive down through Bloomfield to Canandaigua Lake for pics. not very sunny, but what a great drive
    2 points
  23. If they're on a '53, they're definitely not metric like you've mentioned. I think you should be looking for 1/2" x 20 bolts. Take one of you existing ones to your local hardware store and see where it fits into the bolt guide. I don't think I've ever seen chrome lug bolts. You might wind up putting studs in and going with lug nuts.
    2 points
  24. I think Peter is saying "in this case I am OK with it". I will make a somewhat automotive contribution : I have only seen Notre Dame once. In December of 1968, I bought a little Citroën 2CV van in Copenhagen. I paid $100 for it. The "Gringo" who sold it to me could not solve a vexing problem which caused it to stop running frequently and regularly. Didn't take me, a licensed pilot, too terribly long to recognize carb icing, and cure it. Bouncing and slipstreaming (absolutely amazing how little throttle you need when you are 18" off the bumper of the"tow truck"!!!!), my way South on
    2 points
  25. I seem to be having a good day so I decided I might as well try the next step. I put the bearing on a mandrel and turned it down to the finished size... 1.925 It fit just about perfectly... All that is left is to make the oil pockets and the oil groove. Then, because I have to finish the intake manifold in order to get measurements to finish the oil manifold I soldered one of the elbows to a spare piece of tubing. This is to hold it while I file and sand. I also started on the special bolts with built-in standoffs
    2 points
  26. I was not yet completely ready with sheet metal: the doors were waiting. The ones on the car were really bad. I contacted a known supplier in the USA; (he does advertise in the Self-Starter, the Cadillac club magazine) he said that he had a good pair of doors. I asked again about rust and he said that he spent the whole Sunday with his son to inspect them and they are excellent. OK, please ship them! Well, I don't know what for glasses he had at the time; maybe the ones to observe a sun's eclipse: they were as bad as mines (or they rusted in the plane between USA and Europe). So with 4 doors
    2 points
  27. Breakfast run today! It drew some attention! And then wrapped up with a sunset this evening...
    2 points
  28. Just had the '25 out for it's first run of 2019, sporting it's new accessory front bumper,flip up dogbone rad cap,and correct stirrup door handles. Geez, plating is expensive now.
    2 points
  29. Well, problem solved. Turn signals working as they should, one side at a time. Park lights working too, independent of turn signal. Many thanks to all and sundry for help and advice. And with the parcel arriving today with a replacement ammeter, oil and gas caps and wiring clips it felt like Christmas 😀😀 happy Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
    2 points
  30. Look at the link I sent and see if it looks right.
    1 point
  31. In a Turbo 400 or ST 400, reverse is immediately after park, then neutral and drive.
    1 point
  32. As I said it's probably something to do with the perlin size as well that connects the trusses. I imagine a steel truss might be stronger than a wood one, as the wood ones of larger sizes have to be pieced along the top and bottom bands where the steel ones can be one piece. I got a little soffit up on mine between yesterday and today but with the wife under the weather, I have had alot of her duties shifted to me as well as caring for the kids, school etc. Got on my lift today went up, put one band board on the siding to finish it off (of course it had a bow to it). Got the first fasten
    1 point
  33. We can get quite a bit of snow, for this area, 2-3 feet. Doug, this is what is often called a pole barn, and it is insulated, r18 in the walls and roof, and I think something like r30 for the wall nearest the other garage, as it has to be a firewall. Also, the floor is have about r18 in it as well, then 6+ in of concrete.
    1 point
  34. I sure love my camera on my cell phone! There are just some places I can't get my head into to see what is going on. Take a picture with the cellphone and there it is! Changed the oil in the Hupp today and added the oil, 9 quarts, and I couldn't see the gauge on the block. Snap a picture and bam, it is right on the full mark. Without the camera I couldn't even read the markings! Technology is great!!!! I am now ready for cars shows.
    1 point
  35. Ron, You mentioned that many of the earlier Locomobiles were replicas or made up. Is there anyone tracking the survivors and showing them as such, simiiar to what is done on the Stanley Register? I assume that the whereabouts of the early cars is well known. Several come to mind such as the 1899 Warren Weiant car and the 1900 Stan Tarnopol car, both of which were AACA award winning cars years ago. In addition, the 1900(?) Bob Lyon car restored meticulously by Dick French around 1950 is another example of older restorations of Locomobiles that were not made up. Do you kn
    1 point
  36. That’s what we are here for. All of us have questions on this beast of a motor. I believe a number of guys on this forum know more about the v-12 than the Lincoln engineers who designed it. Good luck.
    1 point
  37. Coolant operating temperatures: These are exerpts of the bulletin.
    1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. I was wanting to address a few items and hopefully not overlap the good advise you have already received. The water pump shaft is steel. Some people do run straight water, but water is very aggressive and I strongly advise that you use 50/50 green antifreeze for both the anti corrosion and lubricating properties. I have personally installed Evans lifetime coolant in my car and I hope to be able to report good things after the car is running. If the car has been sitting, rust forms on the shaft and that makes the surface rough and then that shortens the life of the packing. Everyone t
    1 point
  40. yours truly picking up the motor taking her home and stripping the grey finish off now she is in epoxy primer ready for whatever happens;-)
    1 point
  41. Hey, Welcome, I have an expression, and most of the guys here can attest to this, "You do it for Love, not Money"! That said, you ask a fair question, is it worth it, and is your granddad getting a good deal. It can be very difficult to sell vintage cars, it can take months or years, to try to get the value a price guide says its' worth. You need to find the right person, as there are lovers of all of the 100 + years of all the makes, model, and endless variations in cars. In my, partly educated view, the $6,000 is a fair price. That said, it sounds like you just might be that "right guy
    1 point
  42. I will say that virtually every guy who brings a hot rod in to sell in my shop says the same thing: it's boring. I don't know what their goal was when they started or what they expected, but it's rarely what they want when it's done. I don't even think they know what they want, only that they've convinced themselves that an old car isn't what they want. That mindset probably comes from what they've heard from other people or things they assume about old cars being unreliable or hard to drive (you should hear how many grown men whine about needing power steering, but that's another story for an
    1 point
  43. Without checking the prints, would guess that the shafts are unique to the dual quad carbs. Repeat, this is a guess. The throttle plates often are not unique. There is generally no reason to replace the shafts other than the efforts of Dr. Goodpliers (you know, the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench). The methods described earlier in this thread work, and work well. New throttle shafts can be machined by ANY competent machine shop that is interested in doing the work. A skilled enthusiast can do the work provided the enthusiast has a lathe and milling machine. One
    1 point
  44. I have just noted that the side tiller, used by Locomobile, is very similar to that unit as used on a Holsman. I wonder if there is a relationship in the sourcing of parts? I just can't imagine riding one of these narrow steam cars, at speed, with the center of gravity high like it is! In 1900 we still had plenty to learn for sure. Al
    1 point
  45. Some of the old service manuals, in the carb rebuild section, showed how to remove those throttle plate screws during the rebuild process. How to go to the backside, use a flat file, and file-off the bradded threads on the backside of each screw. Which "staked" them into place. Once that lip was removed, then the screw came out normally. After the soak and clean-up, then the plates were repositioned on the throttle shaft and new screws were installed, suitably "staking" them on the bac side of the shaft. After about the middle '60s, that section wasn't in the manuals any more. As the pos
    1 point
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