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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2019 in Posts

  1. Assembling the front door trim starts with attaching the armrest base to the main panel, followed by a layer of padding and then the trim cover. The second layer consists of a sub-foundation that carries all the upper trim pieces. Lots of measuring and double-checking before bonding and sewing the individual panels together. The two-tone split lines must line up with the narrow, stainless steel trim moldings that surround the center section of the panel. I hand-stitched the upper and lower panels together and bonded the joints with contact adhesive. The completed upper panel is retained to the main board with several bend-tabs above the armrest, and adhesive & staples around the perimeter. Below the armrest, the beige and tan panels are sewn to the main panel with a seam reinforcement to provide a clean, straight edge at the color change lines. After sewing both the beige and tan pieces, I test-fit the moldings again: The beige material is "peeking" out above the lower molding, which meant that I had to re-do the two lower sections. Now that's better! Moldings installed and perimeters edgefolded. Waiting for the arrival of the Century script emblems. To install the emblems, I marked the positions of the studs on the front side of the panel and used a small pick to create the holes for the attaching pins. From the back side, I used a 1/8" drill bit to enlarge the holes in the main panel, while leaving the small holes in the vinyl cover material. Here, I am installing the retaining clips. I used a small socket, sized to drive the perimeter of the clip onto the studs. I used a small mallet to drive the clips and supported the emblems from the front of the panel with a cloth-wrapped piece of wood. Complete and ready for installation! I will cut the holes for the door and window crank handles when I install the panels to the doors.
    9 points
  2. 1936 MAHARAJA DUESENBERG REPLICA After 18 years of work our one of a kind 88% scale fiberglass and steel replica of the famed Maharaja Duesenberg for sale. The last Duesenberg ever made before A-C-D went out of business in 1936 was a spectacular roadster built on chassis number 2,614 for Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar (1908-1961) of Indores India. With a one off body made in Croydon, England by coachbuilders Gurney Nutting, gifted designer young John Batchley deserves credit for the sweeping lines. Many feel it is the best looking Duesenberg ever made. Reportedly when it came out of the jungle to be shipped to the USA in 1956, it was cradled in a sling between four elephants! I saw the car at the Louis Vuitton event in New York City in 1999. I was overwhelmed. It is owned by retired Air Force General William Lyons in Orange County, CA. I was allowed to photograph the car in his marble floor “garage” (see photo). If you haven’t heard, Gary Cooper’s similar 1935 SSJ roadster just sold at the Gooding auction at Pebble Beach in Sept. for 22 million. I had my custom ’39 Lincoln on display at the same Louis Vuitton event and Iiterally drooled all over the Maharaja Doozie for three days. Studying the flowing lines I realized the body was very similar to the 1939 Zephyr fiberglass Deco Rides convertible body I produce. I started the eighteen year task of creating an 88% scale mini-Maharaja using the fiberglass Zephyr convertible body as a basis. I acquired a steel replica J model Duesenberg grille shell and front fenders built by Marcel Delay of California. I had a steel hood and side panels made, as well as a brass windshield frame. Ed Flanagan did a masterful job of transforming the Zephyr body to copy the Maharaja. Junior Kelly and the team at Bad Donkey Hot Rods of Hanover, PA completed the project. Chrome by Marty Baker of NEL Metal Restoration in Philadelphia. Custom fitted luggage by Brian Matthews of Carlisle, PA. Trim & Top by Mike Sholley. The original car had a massive 153.5 inch wheelbase while our smaller replica has a 135 inch wheelbase to keep the body proportions correct. The car has a new 502 cu. in. big block Chevy and automatic transmission, The idea is to have an affordable mini-Maharaja you could drive and enjoy. It sits on a rectangular steel Fat Man Fabrications chassis with 9-inch Ford rear with an independent front suspension. It has “snap-shut” power windows, power disc brakes, power steering, air conditioning and a defroster. It has a removable top, orange leather interior and custom-fitted luggage. And respectfully yes, I know it's not a genuine AACA type car, it's a replica. I can't afford the real thing so I did the best I could. Titled as a 1936 Ford. TERRY COOK 201 400 5528 $279,000
    3 points
  3. you are correct and the curve for your chevy is still climbing while the T birds have a hard time garnering any interest. in the end- what will you enjoy or is this just a case of value and money?
    3 points
  4. 2K miles saved on the Regal GS so far! And it just seems to be better all the time. I recommend buying one if you find it. Although I'd try to stick with 92-93 for the 3300 engine. It has amazing pep and pickup and that's with a 180K reading on the odometer!
    3 points
  5. There are SO many parts on this car that are "58 only" or "57 & 58 only". These clips are the "D" pillar exterior reveal molding retainers. On the left is the OEM part; on the right, the piece I am making to replace one broken retainer. I started with a piece of spring steel and laid out the centers of the bends, then formed the part to shape using the OEM piece as my pattern. Finished part - best of all, it works! January 5: Down off the ramps and back to the paint shop for touch-ups and rear bumper final alignment! Unfortunately, the car was very difficult to start and it ran very poorly. More work to do... Notice that the right rear window is open. When I tried to roll the window up, the glass was moving on an arc into the car, inboard of the roof rail weatherstrip. Another task to add to the list... Looking quite spiffy! With the car in for some touch-ups, I shifted my focus to the rear compartment carpeting. It took some experimentation, but I was finally able to make acceptable, consistent stitches with the vintage Singer over-edger/serger machine. I had created full-size paper patterns and used them to cut the carpeting to size. Then ran the carpet pieces through the serging machine to finish the edges. I think they turned out great. A little bit of video... I finished all the ends by tying off the stitches and tucking the "tails" under the adjacent stitches. Then, I used a hook needle to draw the threads under the adjacent stitches. And I added a small piece of tape to hold every thread end down until the carpet is adhered onto the steel panel.
    3 points
  6. My AC/heater vents never stayed in place. They always flopped around & rattled. I was planning to take this project on if/when I got around to installing a modern AC system. This probably won’t happen anytime soon. I recently attacked the renewal of my gauge & glove box plastic surrounds. So it only made sense to address the vents now. I was kinda excited that I figured out a fix on my own without thinking to look on the forum for direction & counldn’t wait to share my journey haha. Just as I went to start this thread the voices in my head said “try the search function”…haha Of course, someone already address this. Additionally, I just went to a junkyard for a fuel gauge yesterday & noticed felt falling out from all the Rivi vents. That, plus the thread I found made me happy to know I did it right. So here are the steps I took & pix to go with it. My original felt was long gone. I had no idea what was used to keep the vents from moving freely. I thought felt was a good option & went to my local fabric store for some. I planned on cutting strips & spraying them with contact cement. Then I found they had these felt sticker sheets & literally laughed to myself about how cool this find was haha. These vents can be broken down into 3 separate parts by loosening a set screw & removing the wire from the vent closure. We’ll call these parts the front half which holds the vent closure knob, the chrome ball vent & the back half where the actual air duct attaches. Once apart u can see where felt would fit nicely on the inside edges of both the front half & the back half. I simply cut strips of felt & applied them to the two halves. Sorry. Forgot to snap a pic of front half process I cleaned, masked & rattle canned everything visible before applying the felt. The two halves sandwich the chrome ball vent sooooo nicely now. The set screw allows for adjustment if u want a tighter or looser fit. This was one of those stupid simple but rewarding projects. I really like the outcome…maybe someday I will actually be able to use these vents haha Herw is the link to the other thread
    2 points
  7. Agree completely with Jason. One could possibly EDIT a book with experts from each Riviera generation writing their sections but.... Finding people willing and able to meet publishing deadlines as well as acceptable wring styles would likely be frustrating at best . My two cents worth ( although a beautiful coffee table book with lots of color pictures and info would be loved by a few us but $$$$$ would come in to play very quickly ) KReed ROA 14549
    2 points
  8. I doubt enough to make a profit which is probably why it has not been done and same reason there isn't many reproduction parts for Riviera's. While they are gaining in desirability, the numbers of interested folks isn't anywhere near the massive public interest in mainstream classics like Mustangs, Camaros, Chevelle s, Challengers, Chargers, old trucks, etc which make it lucrative for folks to reproduce parts and printed documents. No one person I know is familiar enough with all generations to write a book therefore it would take a tremendous amount of research to cover all years and get it right. There is a lot of accurate information on net but there is also a lot of incorrect information when it comes to Riviera's so an author would have to be careful and fact check what goes in the book. I think its safe to say Chris Wolfe never got wealthy off his book. Though I never asked him directly I think he did it more for the passion he had for Rivieras than to make money. It was a different time when he published which was mostly pre-internet so a book was still the best way to get information. ROA was still in its infancy and aside from that there was little printed info to be found on the Riviera aside from factory literature and manuals. Today the Riviera has a much larger following and there is a decent amount of Riviera related information available on the net which tends to reduce effectiveness of a book. ROA's members have been the main source of information we have today either directly or indirectly no matter where you find it.
    2 points
  9. Wow! Nice hidden headlights!
    2 points
  10. No, nothing like that. This car seems fine to me, although I haven't personally inspected it. But the fact that it keeps reappearing is making you question it. THAT is entirely my point. Just by virtue of repeated eBay auctions, the car is "tainted" because now everyone thinks there's something wrong with it. You aren't sure either way, but you're wondering. So is everyone else. And nobody spends thousands of dollars on a vehicle that has them "wondering" about its fitness. It's "tainted." Truth, reality, fiction, whatever, the car is marked because it's been out there so many times with so many unconsummated deals. I didn't mean to be cryptic, only pointing out that your comment is proof of the idea that perception is reality and it's very hard to sell a car that has been repeatedly flogged on eBay with buyers backing out of the deals. This is why I don't use eBay as much as I used to and when I do, I use "Buy It Now or Best Offer" instead of an auction. When a $70,000 car bids to $12,000, I eventually get calls from guys saying, "Well, it only bid to $12,000 on eBay. Looks like the market has spoken. I'll be generous, though, and give you $15,000 for it." The internet is forever and any time someone searches for a particular car, they're going to find that eBay auction and see that it fell down. It's now "tainted."
    2 points
  11. Hi, Neil. Here is a swap meet tip : A day or two before, buy a to go pizza. Extremely high quality pizza can often be found at joints cooking in wood, or coal fired ovens. Enjoy the tomato pie, and save the box. Use said container to make a fore and aft sign board with a wish list drawn on it. Tape it up into a crude vest. Discard vanity, swallow your pride, and don this assault on sartorial elegance as you approach the meet. You must max out the limited time you have. When I have a few topics needing exposure, I use three different colors for separating each for easier recognition. Good luck in finding the Cadillac parts. Are you a member of CLC ? In any case, I hope you can come back and visit us frequently. - Carl P.S. I am still looking for EXACTLY the right fog light. I just don't get around much anymore.
    2 points
  12. It's tainted. It's been through eBay so many times and has sold at least once so most viewers are going to assume that it has problems and other buyers saw it and backed out. If he really wants to sell it, he should let it cool off and take new photos so it looks like a fresh listing. I'd also lose the life story and complaining about buyers and just stick to describing the car. But that's just me.
    2 points
  13. Worked for me way more than once. Kind of intuitive. An in line spring driven weight (hammer), guaranteed to strike the tower squarely, with a repeatable impact force and just begging to be used. Easy peasy........................Bob
    2 points
  14. I'd go one better, specifically at Chickasha....... Plan to arrive Thursday early afternoon in order to "work the parking lot" before the vendors are allowed onto the fairground field. You'll have a chance, especially if you're looking for autos or the rusty bits that are typically loaded in on large open trailers! The indoor vendor space vendors tend to be the more specialist type vendors, specializing in certain products and/or services. Outdoor vendors tend to be more along the line of complete cars or large parts thereof, you know.....rust bits and other interesting items. Be assured, these are only my observations and are complete generalities. Either way, get there Thursday or Friday, stay for Saturday to enjoy the balance of the meet and to get those last minute deals from a vendor packing up and headed for home. I know that I always stay until noon before leaving my vendor space, not all vendors do this. As a buyer, remember, the best deals can often be gotten at the last minute! Enjoy Chickasha......many improvements have been made over the past few years. I'm sure additional improvements will be made. One improvement that I've noticed for this year is a start at re-doing the web page http://pwsm.com/ Unfortunately the update is not complete yet (3 weeks prior to the 2019 Swap Meet), hopefully the update will get done in time and it can contain links to aid attendees find local eateries, services and other travel assistance for persons attending in the next couple of weeks. Come to Chickasha, enjoy the swap meet, enjoy the people and best of luck in finding those special parts that you've been looking for!
    2 points
  15. Mike, the string broke most probably because of the stress. Have a look at the attached picture I did right now. When the window is going down, there is extreme stress on the string just after the pulley on the extreme left, because the window is coming to its stop. It the same on the extreme right. The string on the left near the motor has no tension now, but it will have a lot when the window is up. There is a pulley and a spring on the right behind that broad piece of brass, but the device is not well done and inefficient. As you can see that the string at the left of the motor is frayed, after about 10 times up and down. It's also a candidate spot for weakness. I did a search at that magic Kevlar reinforced thread; unfortunately, the diameter and other properties are not described in all the sites I had a look. If the properties and diameter are available for my needs, it will be the solution because I will not be able to avoir the stress at some places. Are you confused with my tentative of explanation? Me too!
    1 point
  16. I have a friend that was registering a new acquisition and the lady set the plates on the counter and he noticed that the plates had his initials for letters and the numbers missed his birth day by just a couple of digits. He asked politely if she could dig down the pile a few and got his initials and birthday for the going rate for current registration. This guy has the best 'dumb luck' of anybody I know.
    1 point
  17. What has this post have to do with this? Wisdom of trading 1957 chevy belair two dr. hardtop for a 1957 Thunderbird
    1 point
  18. Might be connections for some kind of aftermarket stereo/CD. It's not unusual for people to remove the units, but leave the wiring before they sell a vehicle.
    1 point
  19. Bob The 1933 Fords weren't introduced until February 1933.
    1 point
  20. "Neighbor" would be wrong. They are reproduced and sell for about $35 a pair from all the Mustang repro suppliers. NOS originals might be worth something. Pitted old ones, not so much.
    1 point
  21. What, you were expecting us to be even more handsome!?!
    1 point
  22. Great picture. But why don't either of you look anything like I was imagining?
    1 point
  23. Post numbers are not working again, or is it still? Here is an example where someone referred to the "last picture in post #5", a very good way of dealing with a reference to a post with a bunch of pictures, rather that than having to repost the same string of pictures in a quote every time someone refers to it again. Then the post numbers disappear. Here is a poster in a thread who is quite understandably confused by the missing numbers. Of course in this thread, I guess you could just count them. The thread is pretty short. It's a good thing we arent talking about "1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)" (58 pages) or "I JUST LOVE THE PICTURE OF THIS BUICK..........." (230 pages). Thanks for any attention to this matter.
    1 point
  24. I agree with you JD, to an extent, but I think the pictures showing the extent of damage to the vehicles themselves is sufficient to get that point across without having to include maimed or dead bodies which may possibly be disturbing to some.
    1 point
  25. Any Power Steering Fluid container 'so marked' It is basically an amber colored hydraulic pump fluid. JUST NOT ATF of any kind.
    1 point
  26. Yep, love those Roman Numerals. I had them on my 1973 Cadillac back in the 1980s: LXXIII. Very few understood.
    1 point
  27. Another price drop!! $35.00 picked-up in Freehold, NJ 07728. What a deal!
    1 point
  28. When the small odometer gear breaks, and it WILL break at some time, that is when it stops. On some cars it at very low miles, with others it could be in the hundreds of thousands. It is more dependent on time not operating which allows the grease behind the gear to harden and restrict the gear from rotating.
    1 point
  29. I had that sort of thing but the axle slot was damaged. Same principal though. I got the slogged out keyway straightened and had a stepped key made to fit both slots. No problem after that. Well, not with that, anyway. But it turned out that wasn't the end of the story. After not many hundreds of miles, we found lateral play in the wheel bearings. It turned out the outer cone had been turning on the axle and worn it, allowing lateral movement in the axle. This had damaged the inner seal too. I suspect the two problems - axle wear causing lateral movement and slogged keyway - are related but haven't worked out how. So my advice to you is to check everything in there very carefully, not just the keyway problem.
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. Just FYI the Airflow Club of America has the molds for Straight 8s - 298.6 and 323.5 cu. in and are actively taking orders. If you contact John Librenjak through the ACA perhaps there may be some synergies and you may not have to completely reinvent the wheel. Maybe just adjusting the existing molds' combustion chambers for your high performance ideas would work. ACA has a website and I think the heads are offered there. They have molds for 6 cyl.241.5 cu. in engines as well.
    1 point
  32. Imagine finding this. Has a bumper guard and spotlight, but is that a factory roof rack ?
    1 point
  33. Hello, My name is Mark my car is featured on you tube under 1936 Chrysler air stream. Parts are difficult but not impossible to find (example, tail light lenses and bezels not to mention brake shoes). If it's not a model A or a 57 chevy no one wants to carry parts for other cars. I however do have some connections. If anyone wishes to contact me phone # is 407-390-9710
    1 point
  34. Oops, I went into two parking spots...
    1 point
  35. Simply stunning as it nears completion! What a remarkable Buick treasure this is!
    1 point
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