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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I’m a millennial. Born in 1989 (Just turned 30) my first classic was a 1959 Edsel, now a proud owner of a 1926 Dodge Brothers. My dad is the one (born in 1963) always asking me why I didn’t just buy a muscle car. I tell him I don’t like muscle cars and he looks at me like I’m committing a sin. I like going against the grain and doing what I love. And I genuinely love my 26. People like me may be one in 100 or even one in 1000000, but I we are out there and trying to smash those stereotypes.
  2. 4 points
  3. 3 points
    Ben, I will be serious now. Have you checked the tires? A loose belt on a radial can do strange things. A break in a bias can be just as strange. Ben
  4. 3 points
    Considering "under load/uphill" and "cornering", wondering about any rear suspension bushings that might be allowing the rear axle to shift on its pivot points? If it's all "straight line", then loading the engine with the foot brake with more throttle to maintain speed should indicate that, possibly. When the front u-joint on our '66 Chrysler started going away, it was a light vibration at 70mph that happened. Not unlike a wheel/tire that needed balancing. But also accompanied by squeaks when starting from a stop. With everything in dedicated architecture in the torque tube drive mechanism, not sure if it would act the same. I would think that worn rear suspension bushings would manifest themselves with vehicle handling issues, too. From my experiences with a burnt exhaust valve, it can "miss" on acceleration, with generally lower power going up hills and such, but smooth otherwise. Not the smoooothest idle, either. Ben, you've got too much invested in that car to let it get to you NOW. YOU also know it better than anybody else on the planet, so it's used to your "known touch" in repairing it. Keep us posted . . . NTX5467
  5. 3 points
    This is the Buick that inspired my love for the marque - my parent's 61 Electra 225 that they bought in 62 after trading their 57 Roadmaster 75. Because of this car, I now also own 61 deuce and a quarter that I can't imagine ever selling... also shown in one of these pictures is my uncle's 62 Chevy Impala!
  6. 2 points
    I sent this to my friend Chris (Car Guy). This was his response...... (Make sure she blocks at a forty five degree angle, most dogs and some cats tend to sand in the same spot to long creating ridges and low areas) 😂
  7. 2 points
    Youse guys are all wrong. 😁 Except John.... Real GM part that fits Corvair and Corvette. You are missing the special bolt or nut to make this lock a tire. The bolt type was used on 61-64 Corvairs. The nut type was used on 1965 - 69 Corvairs. I do not know the Corvette years. http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,813643 Of course, it could be an old part in the system that was reused for Corvair and Corvette production. Seen that before, like the Carter YH used on Turbo Corvairs. Last used by GM on Corvettes 8 years earlier. Curtis was still in business in the early 1990s. I bought a lot of key blanks from them. Nuts bolts and auto parts also!
  8. 1 point
    temps in the 20's -to high 30's...after 8 below..I had to fire it up. My garage is attached, has modern insulated door, Owens corning pink in the walls and ceiling still freezes..Too much salt all over to drive, warmed it up ,
  9. 1 point
    I got rings many years ago from Hastings, don't know if they will still make them. The early 28 Plymouth motor may be the same, but the 29 onwards the head is much squarer in the corners and I seem to recall the gaskets were different. The 4 cyl Dodge motors are totally different.
  10. 1 point
    Well I am into 1940s and 1970s and some 1980s luxury cars. This is mostly due to the fact that this is what I grew up around with my WWII grandfather born in 1916. The earlier cars don’t do much for me because sadly they can’t be enjoyed here in ca due to the insane traffic (I only take my 21 out twice a year) even my forties cars have a hard time so they don’t get out much but they are started weekly. 50s cars do nothing for me except the 58 imperial and the Mark II. 60s cars are so common and not exciting (I own a 66 mustang which was my first car). My tastes now in car buying are luxury 70s and 80s. I have the Seville 77, 2 reattas, and now my 81 Imperial. I feel that if I am going to buy a classic I want to keep up with traffic and have something super comfortable to drive and the nice part? I find great deals on these mostly under $2k and they are nice and clean usually original or second elderly owner and they get a lot of looks. As as far as cars getting passed down/sentimentality my 21 Chevy, and 41 dodge came through 3 generations, the Lincoln was my grandpas and I bought it back. The caddy is a clone of my grandpas and that is why I bought it.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Sounds good. I'll check the belt width when I get home. I'll send a PM.
  13. 1 point
    You dont have to pull anything. The pistons will come out the bottom right now. All you have to do is remove the con rod cap (watch those shims) rotate the crankshaft so the throw is out of the way and pull the piston down. It will come right out past the crank with no trouble at all. You can also get the piston back in without a ring compressor. There is a taper at the bottom of the bore. Stick the piston in th bore, wiggle it a little as you push up. The rings will compress by themselves. If you do have trouble, you have plenty of room to use a ring compressor. I have done this several times for various crazy reasons. It really is very easy.
  14. 1 point
    So I just picked up my Imperial! It’s raining cats and dogs here in ca and the guy thought I wouldn’t show up. But I did and we negotiated and I got it for under $2k. It runs great. It was low in the front but it turns out it’s the tortion bar, I am also having the wheel cylinders replaced. It is smogged and registered and I already had it transferred. It it has a rebuilt transmission, lots of new parts, factory converted carb. It needs the ac fixed and the power windows and a new set of tires. I am also in need of the rocker molding on the passenger side. The original paint is in good shape and interior is too.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I believe that is a "side mount only" hub cap from about a 1929 Cadillac.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Gary, You rebuilt the whole darned car! Working on the simple carb isnt brain surgery. As suggested above, even though the carb is NOS, the key letter is "O". For one, it probably needs new fresh gaskets. Check the float level and needle and seat. Since the car runs OK, there is a good chance no adjustments are needed other than perhaps float level. Everything is well covered in the manual. Go for it.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    My first inclination was a leaking intake valve(s). I have had some with burnt valves and recently some with sticking valves because the *&^%$# machine shop set the valve to guide clearance too tight. They run happily until going uphill (low vacuum) and then any pressure in the intake will disrupt the flow. Test: drive till it is acting up; remove air cleaner and disable the ignition; crank with the throttle wide open...any huffing back will indicate a leaking intake valve(s). You may have to drive it until it gets worse and then finally get a diagnosis.
  21. 1 point
    who needs land? I could guess Germany for one! LOL
  22. 1 point
    see now I lean towards all my '38 Carbs do it and I don't worry all that much about it and yours seems about like mine. but surely Buick didn't mean for it to do it from the factory...so up to you...
  23. 1 point
    What a neat piece! Love the dash and the oil can that is mounted under the dash. I think it would be a mistake to restore it, it's a little toasty but still looks great and is complete. Plus, you'd lose those great original dash "instruments". You might contact the WSC Museum and see if they have any information. I have no idea as to value of this particular pedal car, but my gut feeling is 1500 would be a bargain and 3000 is too much. Hopefully someone with a real sense of values of these will chime in, good luck!
  24. 1 point
    Isn't there a cap you can just take off to see if the gas is all the way up at that pin? It shouldn't be up there. It shouldn't be anywhere near that high. Carburetors that are running with the float stuck, sunk, or just way too high usually have gas running out of the main discharge tubes down inside the booster venturis. If the car is not prone to backfiring (so you can look safely), look down the throat with the engine running on full-warm slow idle. There should be no fuel coming out of the discharge tubes, or anything else you can see. At a hot idle, all the fuel should be coming from the idle jets just BELOW the throttle where you can't see it. If you see fuel running out of something in there, the float is misadjusted, stuck, or sunk. I have read that sometimes float levels need to be lowered when using ethanol blends. I'm skeptical. I wonder what Carbking thinks about that.
  25. 1 point
    According to the Jan/Feb 2019 Antique Automobile Magazine, the Auburn, IN National is listed as May 28-30, 2020. I would recommend that you double check this date late this year or early 2020 just to be safe. Charlie
  26. 1 point
    Today I took the plunge and broke into my rocker panels. Here's the passenger side before (Photo 1) and after (Photo 2). Not having a proper spot weld remover, I just cut the metal as close as I could to the spot welded areas. I will either buy a spot weld driller-outer, or maybe just grind the other pieces out. Not sure yet. Here's the driver's side after I cut the rocker out there (Photo 3). The inner sills have rust holes, but it doesn't look too bad at first glance. My plan is to stop with the body, other than continuing to remove what's left of the paint, and wait until I can get it professionally blasted to bare metal. I think at that point, I'll be able to see the full extend of the damage. Right now, it looks like I could maybe put in some patch panels, as it looks fairly structurally sound, but the blasting may open up a whole can of worms. I don't have the expertise to replace the full sill assembly myself, I would not be able to keep the body in alignment. While winter continues, I'm still working on some smalls on the side. Was able to heat up the garage today and primer the rear number plate brackets and hardware. Should be able to sand and paint them up tomorrow. Picking up some chrome pieces later this week, and dropping more off. I also need to call the engine shop. It's been 4 months since I dropped it off and last I heard it was at the line bore shop. Starting to get a little antsy, they should be wrapping it up about now. Plenty of paint on the body still to strip. I could get back into the heater, that would be easy and consistent work. Probably shouldn't get too far ahead of myself, my credit card has been smoking other the last few months, it could probably use a break from car parts/services purchases.
  27. 1 point
    Sent you a PM too. (private message)
  28. 1 point
    Wonder what the occasion was? Keith
  29. 1 point
    Looks like a standard, aftermarket spare tire lock from the late 1920s or early 1930s. Not necessarily for a "continental kit". Could be for a side mount or rear mount spare.
  30. 1 point
    Roger, That is looking really good. I may be getting close to doing upholstery and top on my 1925 Buick Standard Touring in the near future, so any pointers would be very helpful. I would bet that we have the same front seat. I will look into that. I put together an upholstery package because my plan is to essentially have an original style interior made. Maybe get some volume pricing. High volume for old Buicks is 2 or more right? I am posting what is needed for the front seat. I do have a similar file for the rear seat of a Touring car if someone needs that. I also have information on what your door covering should look like. I do have some convertible top information as well. Are you aware that there is a sheetmetal piece sewn into the top material that fits between the top frame and the glass frame? If you are, I would love to get dimensions from you on this. Otherwise I have some photos of what it looks like if you need it. Most of this came from my experts - Leif Holmberg and Larry DiBarry. My car won't make the show, but I hope your does. Your car looks great. Hugh
  31. 1 point
    I cant. People dispose of their money all the time in terrible ways. They buy new appliances every 2 years, new phones every year, new cars every few years. If people who complain about not having disposable income had any sense about how to manage what they had, they could collect cars too. They choose to spend it in other ways trying to impress themselves. Daily driving the same car since 2005, having a (God forbid!) iPhone 5, and fixing my 5 year old stove for $12 allows me to have 2 collector cars. If a person wants to be involved in the hobby, they can. I guess that’s it. People would rather spend their money on other things. There is nothing wrong with that. We all have our hobbies and interests. What’s wrong is doing that, and then complaining about being unable to have a collector car. Either make more money and buy and old car, or make different decisions. Sorry for the diatribe. I just know a few people like this, and I meet people like this at work every day. They are always “broke,” but spend endlessly.
  32. 1 point
    or should this be in Find the Buick 😁 judgin by the the wheel covers I’m thinking there’s a fitty fo convertible under there somewheres
  33. 1 point
    Wow! What a difference 48 hours makes! The weather is loosening up and it is to be 34 degrees for a high today and close to 50 tomorrow and Monday... Thank Heavens!!! My knees are sore from praying the pipes didn't burst on my other house and guess it paid off as heating areas suspect of freezing with space heaters, we got water to flow after 10 hours and no split pipes... Heading out to change a burned out brake light bulb on Mom's Venture Van and then over to the Special to gather up the new water pump and thermostat housing to paint them up. Hope to put things back together tomorrow with the garage door open and the tunes on!
  34. 1 point
    No, not unfixable at all. Its very easy. 😎 There is a 1971 California registration card in the glove box in Grandpa's name, so he did have a title. Likely the 'pink slip' was placed in a secure spot so that it would not be lost. But then people either forgot where that was, or didnt recognize what car the pink slip was for. (BTW - having the registration document even allows someone in CA to reactivate the original black license plate) Same with the keys, they were likely put in a box or hung on a hook and when the time came to 'clean up' nobody recognized them and threw them away. Creating a current California title would be very easy but it would cost about $100 in California state fees and the lines at the California DMV have made the headlines as currently being 6-8 HOURS long! If the car was being offered for $15,000 I would put things on order. For $1500 it will be a learning experience for the new hobbyist. 😉
  35. 1 point
    Worked a little more on the cutting jig. I had a couple pieces of hard nylon from work that I milled to the thickness of the slots leaving the thickness of the nylon sides to the inside. This allowed me to mill a 1/2” slot in the middle for the cutter and holder and two slots on the ends that will secure the ends so the whole jig is straight and strong. I milled a slot on each side which will allow for height adjustment of the cutter holder. Hope to get more done tomorrow. The concept of this tool is to operate it much-like a file. With the cutter in the middle of the long sides, it should be able to produce good straight lines but only testing will prove it.
  36. 1 point
    Everybody would like to be able to make broad general statements about different segments of the hobby. Please try to remember that "trends" are not absolute. I was born in 1960. While I have owned a 1989 HPOF car in the past, my preferred cars are all prewar. I owned a 1954 collector car for a short while, but I have no interest in the 60's or 70's cars that I am apparently "supposed" to be most interested in. While people often identify that most young people have no interest in antique cars, they seldom seem to realize that is true of most generations. There is a small percentage of all age groups of people who are interested in antique cars. There are still "car guys" and "car gals" in the younger generation. I see them every month at our local Cars and Coffee event. The hobby, like everything else, is always changing. In spite of the setbacks in the economy in 2008 and subsequent years, the rumors of the imminent death of the hobby are quite overstated. I have been an AACA member and antique car owner since I was in my mid 30's. This hobby has always been something that is mostly affordable to the retiree crowd. It has always been less likely for a younger person to have the disposable income and storage space needed to own a collector car. While it might be a bit worse post 2008, that is not the first time in history that economic downturns have affected the hobby.
  37. 1 point
    Don't even think about giving up.
  38. 1 point
    Looks like a standard 1932ish Auburn Cabriolet that has had modifications to the rear body tub (they cut back into body to get 4 passengers inside and in doing so also closed up the rumble seat or trunk lid). The wood wheels are proper Auburn with accessory hub covers. The grill has had 1934 inserts installed and heavily modified sheet upper and lower grill sheet metal, as are the running boards modified. The dash inserts and instruments are 30's Cadillac, but the tachometer looks correct Auburn. The steering wheel and horn button are not Auburn. The trunk hinges/spare tire compartment are 1938-1941 Cadillac 60 Special Fleetwood. The taillights are 32/33 LaSalle. The hood doors are not Auburn. And, the bumpers are Ford. Auburns 8's have a tendency when proper sized tires are installed to look a little small wheeled - common problem (a fair number of people put a larger profile tire on their cars when restoring).
  39. 1 point
    The down side is fewer gasoline cars after the EV's have taken the market over. Less demand for gasoline equals higher gas prices. Just look at the price of paint thinner' lighter fluid' kerosene, regular 87octaine ethanol free gas compared to 87 10% ethanol.
  40. 1 point
    Elon Musk is a genius if only because he was the FIRST person in 120 years that figured out how to build an electric car that wasn't an embarrassment to be caught dead in.
  41. 1 point
    That is a great website. It is in my Riviera bookmark folder now. Thanks.
  42. 1 point
    What a sweet assistant you have! You are a lucky man.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Agreed. The car "right in front" is either a 68 or 69 Dodge Charger.
  45. 1 point
    Intake valve leaking...sticking or burned.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I hope my comments won't be too far off topic, but here goes. In regards to the braking ability of most pre-1930 automobiles? People fear mechanical brakes because they do not understand them. Basic physics, weight of vehicle, two wheel brakes or four wheel brakes, and the relative footprint and condition of the tires dictate maximum braking ability and stopping distances at what speeds. Size and material types of the drums and shoes or bands have some lesser effects, and mostly affect the required amount of pedal pressure needed to make a stop. The most common problem with mechanical brakes is that most people do not understand the relationship of the various levers, cams, and other mechanical components of the system. PROPERLY adjusted, mechanical brakes can work very well. As an example, when I bought the 1915 Studebaker I used to have, the service brake could not stop the car from 20 mph in less than about a hundred yards (YIKES and DOUBLE YIKES!). A quick examination of the brake linkages revealed that their adjustment was atrocious, in part due to an incorrect brake rod that was a bit too short. A quick modification to the short rod, and a hour of adjustment, and the car would lock both rear wheels with only light pressure on the pedal. With only two wheel brakes on that car, it wasn't going to make you feel like it had four wheel power assisted disc brakes. But from 20 mph, it would stop in only slightly more than twenty feet. Definitely something I could live with. (As a clarification? Both those stopping distance tests were going on a very slight down hill. If I had gone the other direction? One could have just pushed in the clutch and stopped in somewhat over fifty feet.) As for the Cadillac in question? If I were ten to twenty years younger, not nearly as broke as I now am, and didn't have a half dozen projects already that need restoring (two of which I am working on!)? I would love to give $4000 for that Cadillac. But as things are right now, I won't live long enough to do more than half the project cars I now have. But then I always was a bit crazy and a sucker for large '20s sedans. For whatever it is worth? I hope a good home can be found for this car.
  48. 1 point
    I will defend braking systems of early cars - they worked incredibly well when new and still do when properly done = I can generally throw you into the windshield (big heavy cars though so they do not stop on a dime though and certainly will not stop like your new car). People are not happy as people try to improve upon the original and use newer engineered linings verses woven, they do not adjust them properly - we are talking thousands and feeler gauges, people install worn parts, drums not turned properly and shoes not arched to drums, and the list goes on and on. As to younger people - yes they do like early cars, but it is somewhat more challenging if you did not grow up around this stuff or have friends involved. I see incredible numbers of younger people doing pre -1915, ACD Club, British car clubs, and ... And, in Europe I think nothing of younger people driving in PreWWII cars. And, younger interest tends to be regional (aka if you are in LA or East Coast there is a lot going on with earlier cars). As to this particular Cadillac, it is actually a better looking than most sedan via the "Box Car School of Design" and I certainly would not call it a parts car - but if someone does not do their homework (photograph it well, figure out what is missing, know if it has good wood, know if engine does not knock or ... matched to good oil pressure and not puff like a steam car or ...), then it will only sell for parts car prices or heavily discounted prices. Here is a good early car example: I needed a rather unique ball bearing and hunted high and low to find someone had reproduced 10 of them (enough for 5 cars) - they wanted $2,500 for two bearings (a set) OR I could buy a $35.00 bearing and do $2,000 of machine tool work (which everyone seemed as excited about as much as imminent death).
  49. 1 point
    That little hole is called the "compensating port". It's tiny - only about .025 - .030 inch diameter. Small enough that it sometimes gets plug when cars sit for many years, the bore gets rusty and a novice doesn't see it and know to check that it's clear. The port allows brake fluid to move from the working pressure side of the system back into the reservoir as the brake fluid normally heats up and expands during driving. More often, a novice will adjust the pedal linkage too far trying to keep the raise the pedal to keep it from going to the floor to make up for poorly adjusted shoes. That leaves the port covered up by the rubber cup. When the fluid heats up and expands, it starts to move the wheel cylinder pistons out against their return springs, thus dragging the brake shoes. I've had two customers whos brakes lock up in hot weather so bad it stalled the motor.... and each time the car owners told me they had the brakes adjusted by a supposed "professional". It's shocking how many mechanics don't really know the basics of brake systems. The foot pedal should have about a 1/2 inch of free play before you feel the resistance to push the pedal increase as it works against the master cylinder piston return spring. That's so that the linkage is not pressing on the master cylinder piston and the piston spring will move the piston back to it's stop and allow the rubber cup to move back and uncover that compensating port. Never adjust the pedal linkage so much that it removes the pedal free-play. If you have a too-low pedal look for the fault at the shoe adjustments, and/or, air still trapped somewhere in the in the system. That check valve in the master cylinder holds about 7 psi in the entire system. If it were at fault the front brakes would be dragging also. If it's only happening in one front brake, or both rear brakes with non-independent rear suspension (one hose to the rear axle), then more likely it's a bad hose that the inner sleeve has swollen shut. The outsides of the hose can look perfectly normal because they are designed to hold very high pressure in. But the core is not designed to prevent swelling inward. The high pressure of braking can easily force fluid through a swollen hose, but when you let the pedal up, the shoe return springs are no strong enough to force the wheel cylinders to push fluid back to the master cylinder as quickly as they should. The fluid can take a long time to bleed back through that swollen hose and release the shoes. One other possibility is If it's a dual system, and only the rear brakes are locking up, the rear piston cup is not uncovering it's compensating port, or the port is plugged. Paul
  50. 0 points
    14 years and 80,000 miles ago and it is slobbering a 10 inch puddle from the front, along with rust proofing the bottom --- junk! More to come...