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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Well, I understand and it is your car after all -- but I'll wager what you have now is still nicer than the way most left the factory in Flint... The finish line is in sight!
  2. 4 points
    Yes I do. It was sold to a man in CA who drove it and broke the crankshaft. It was sold to another CA man wo had a new crankshaft made and got it running again. It is a Model 72 T-head, and can be found on the cover of a HCCA magazine a few years back. I don't mean to be elusive about who owns the Loziers I am speaking about, but without their permission, I want to be thoughtful in maintaining their privacy.
  3. 4 points
    I was in this situation in 2016 - I had been thinking about getting a car - pre 1933 - for a year or two, and looked at Hemmings and Ebay and some other sites every day for many months to get an idea of what was around and what it might cost. Following advice, I think from this board, or maybe one of the Facebook groups, I headed off to Hershey Fall Swap Meet in October 2016 with a budget and a determination to buy "not a Model A or a Model T" - there are just too many of them around and I wanted something a bit out of the ordinary. The car that caught my eye as soon as I saw it, and survived me looking at other cars the rest of that day was a 1926 Franklin Sedan, so I bought that at the start of the 2nd day of Hershey 2016. I joined the AACA there on the grounds, and joined the H H Franklin Club a few days after I got back home. The club has incredible people, and incredible resources - e.g. most of the factory drawings for cars and parts from 1902 through to 1934 are in the club's possession, and available on the club's website for members to use. My only regret about buying at Hershey was the inability to take a test drive in the car. The picture is me with the car after I'd signed for it and made the money transfer. Roger
  4. 3 points
    In prior threads it was discussed that there was an early and late 55 engine. The early ones had the oil filler in the valley cover, similar to the 53 and 54's. The later had the oil fillers in the valve covers, similar to the 56.
  5. 3 points
    Jack51, You posted the same thing in three different forums here and, by long-standing internet convention, that's kinda frowned upon; it's called 'cross-posting.' I've merged all three threads together and have deleted the duplicate posts to clean up the merged thread, which is here in General Discussion. Just wanted to let you and everyone else know what happened.
  6. 3 points
    Yes...but very pricey
  7. 3 points
    Really appreciate all of the comments and "best wishes" I was released from incarceration yesterday (Jan 09) at 9:00 a.m. Arrived home to find that my keys would NOT unlock the door! Twenty degrees and locked out. 45 minutes trying various solutions (including kicking in the door!) finally lead to an unlocked bedroom window. I pulled one of my cars up to the window climbed onto the bumper then hood, stood up and was able to get a leg in the window and eventually to get the rest of my body in. This trick was witnessed by my friend Bob Schmidt who had brought me home. Bottom line is I am feeling well and have had no significant pain from beginning to end. All doctors and support staff (an international group) performed well. Have great respect for them and the new medical technologies that makes all this happen. As one more interesting note prior to surgery my left knee had been very, very sore making walking difficult. Since the surgery the pain has almost completely gone! I'm not a doctor but guessing something to do with circulation. Best wishes to all.
  8. 2 points
    If you are like me , I tend to "accumulate " car stuff that ends up cluttering up my shop waiting for a home or an application on a future car. Good tires and wheels take up lots of room . Found these tire dollies that hold up to 300 lbs and roll around easily . Cheap at $38 on Amazon with free shipping with Prime . Thought some members might find them useful . KReed ROA 14549
  9. 2 points
    WoW!!! The $15k (this 1929 is a bargain IMO) and $25k (1931 the dash is very similar to a Chrysler 77) Franklins are just wonderful.
  10. 2 points
    I don't know if anything that I have to say will strike a chord, but decisions that I made many years ago have help define who I am, and what I own. I own a number of cars, from all eras, but when it comes to the years you are interested in, it is all Studebaker and Pierce Arrow. I was a Studebaker owner before I became interested in the "Classic Era" cars. That was more then fifty years ago, so it was easy to slide into the cars that I chose to own. I'm not trying to sell you on either of my choices, even though I think that they would be a good choice. It's the independent car companies that I would urge you to consider. From styling to engineering innovation, it was often the independents that led the way during this period. Ask yourself if owning a car that you can take to any cruise night, or car show, where you will find other similar cars and owners, with the same interests that you have, is what you want, or whether you willing to tell the story of what you have, over and over again. I made that choice so many years ago and never looked back. Showing, driving and sharing some of the knowledge that I have picked up, over the years, and the eyes that have been opened, has been an opportunity that I wouldn't have missed for the world. For me it's always been important to be willing to answer a question without coming off as a no-it-all. There has never been the need to search out an audience, because real car people really want to understand. It's not always easy, because telling the story can interfere with enjoying the car show, but it's an obligation that I don't take lightly. Good luck, I laud you in your choice of era, now just choose what suites you best.-Bill
  11. 2 points
    Bev and I just returned from our annual fun in the sun trip to Cuba and thought you might like to see some photos of the iconic taxi cabs. These cars are the original resto mods, for show but they are working cars, like the Clydesdale draft horses from Budweiser, a symbol of the company but they also have to pull the beer wagon. We hired the '55 Bel Air for a day trip the old Havana with a excellent driver, whose patience could teach me how to be a more courteous driver, and university educated guide with history and languages. I brought some AACA magazines for distribution, they were popular and taken away in a few moments. Regards, Gary
  12. 2 points
    Starting 2019 at 50584 miles on the odometer.
  13. 2 points
    Hey Ben I have 2 Sup/Roadee columns with wheels still attached. Are all 56 wheels same? Lemme know if you need a cheap core to practice on.
  14. 2 points
    Did you try turning the terminal over? Ben
  15. 2 points
    Well this has got to be a new personal record, especially since it was just my 4 year old and me. I left Key Largo (south of Miami) at noon on Sunday and arrived in Gilroy (south of San Jose) last night around 9:30. I picked up a trailer outside of Houston and have been towing the empty trailer since then. I will say the trailer while being heavy duty tows beautifully even if I did drive like a little old lady thru Pasadena and was not passing cars going up grapevine hill. I should be getting my first look at this Lincoln in an hour or so.
  16. 2 points
    Minus the weight of the rolling frame and determining the correct front/rear weight distribution of the body........ Yes?........bob
  17. 2 points
    Hello there! Name is Sean Batiz, I just came across this particular thread for the first time. I very recently was fortunate enough to snatch up an original 1955 Buick Pr Ant Sw BEZEL ONLY that appears to be NOS “but”, after receiving it in my mail a couple of days ago, it suddenly dawned on me that I’ve gone and impulsively purchased this part a bit too hastily! It’s casted part # on the top side (that’s not visible when mounted to the dash) is: “1165749”. Which, if one looks through the 1955 Buick Master Chassis Parts Book, they’d see this part number listed for specifically the 1954-55 40 - 60 series &, 1954 100 series cars! My cars are both (I own two) 1955 Buick ‘SUPER’ serious 50 2DR HDTP’s. Which lists the correct bezel part number as: “1165715”! All of this long winded message leads me up to ask: Do you know what part number is on the bezel part that you have there? Can you find a part number on that actual switch itself? Do you still have these parts? If the one that you have (presuming you still have it?) is in fact, for the larger body series (1165715), like my Super’s are, AND if you own a Century or Special series, WOULD YOU BE WILLING TO TRADE THE BEZELS? That is, unless you’ve been looking to sell your switch/bezel combination? This one that I have, appears to be flawless. I’ve included a picture of the page from my 55 BMCPB with red arrow aiming this bezel I have &, green underlining the bezel part number that would be correct. Just above that, is listed the part number into for the switch itself.
  18. 2 points
    I started this morning by setting the radius turning tool up in the lathe and drilling a hole to start the boring bar. I took it out to about 7/8" then set up the boring head. This part went smoothly. Here's the finished product. I hit the size dead on. I never milled one end of the 1-1/2 square pieces because getting them perfectly to length is a PIA. Instead, with the tool assembled I fly cut the side where they were unever. This won't make the tool work any better but it does look better. So, here it is. I had intended to make a split bushing so I could adjust tension on it but when I assembled everything the tension was just about perfect as is. I can always do that later if it needs it but for now, this is fine. I also discovered that I have to take the tool apart in order to mount it - something I hadn't anticipated but not a major problem. I tried it out with a boring tool and then with a 1/2: end mill as a cutter. Neither worked although the tool itself functioned exactly as it should. The problem is cutter shape... and grinding cutting tools has never been one of my strong points. Despite the fact that it didn't cut well there was no vibration in the tool itself so I'm convinced that when I find a cutter that works the entire thing should be fine. I did see something on youtube - I hate watching youtube videos but I do have to admit that occasionally I find a good idea there. In any case, tomorrow I'll try it. If it doesn't work, I have to go on to another job I promised a friend for another brass car so I will probably post some photos of that project as well. I did have a couple of near misses though - I forgot to measure the radius of the boring head itself. Fortunately, it fit albeit with a very small clearance. I did have to reduce both the width and the diameter of the set screw collar to get it on but overall, I'm satisfied.
  19. 2 points
    Running board supports could easily be modified to become stream board brackets. The mounting base and profiles are the same for both. Stream board supports are narrower across the flanges but that might not matter. At worst a little grinding would would be in order. The stream board brackets are shorter overall but again an easy fix. Slots for the carriage bolt hold downs are different but they could be cut in the proper place. Attached some photos FYI. The black powder-coated stream board brackets are for my project convertible. The running board brackets are available with a revision in the condition report. They all four have some damage. Tried to show the worst one in the photo with two only. The are all really solid and could easily be restored. Bob H
  20. 2 points
    I agree with Vintman - too many pictures in one thread to keep them easily separated - especially for us novices.
  21. 2 points
    What people are trying to tell you is that in old cars (like with so many collectibles) DETAILS MATER! Among old cars it is very common that one year is 'priceless' and the next year is 'worthless'. The word "original" has VERY SPECIFIC meanings (especially around here) and can significantly affect both price AND interest. Imagine if somebody posted a picture of a house asking for a valuation but could not correctly state where it was located? or that the description and picture did not match between one story and two story . . . ? But they still want to know what it was worth. . . Same as if somebody asked what some stock was worth without saying the name of the company or how many shares they had. You can get excellent help here BUT exact information is critical. The more information AND PICTURES the more accurate your answer.
  22. 2 points
    Hi Folks, would remind everybody about the rule from Peter Geriepyat the top of this forum which advises only one photo per thread!! Gets bit complicated othewrwiase.
  23. 2 points
    Things have been moving quickly as I prepare the car for its maiden show. It will be displayed at the Detroit Autorama on March 1-3. Early in December, I visited my friend Pat who has been working on the seat trim. He had completed most of the covers and we planned to install the covers onto the frame & spring units. He had researched the correct appearance for the covers. Images of interiors of several other cars showed that there was a lot of variation in the way the trim covers were sewn. For example, these seats look "overstuffed" and the french seams at the corners do not line up with the outboard stitch lines on the insert areas: This seat has better contours, without the overstuffed look, but the upper (red) panel goes straight across the seat, instead of curving downward at the outboard corners: Here is the 1/3 section of the rear seat back. The short , angled french seam aligns perfectly with the insert stitch line and the corner of the tan and beige joint. The upper edge of tan/beige joint is contoured to match the images in the 1958 Buick color and trim book and images of original interiors. This is the initial test fit of the 2/3 folding rear seat cushion. Shape looks good, corners and edges still need some finessing: Looking better! Here, I am beginning to assemble the 1/3 section of the rear seat back. A perimeter wrap of non-woven polyester will help retain the shape of the side facings. Together in the car for the first time. I'm not happy with it, so I will disassemble it and start over. But my granddaughter gave it her approval for comfort!
  24. 1 point
    Think you guys are right that it is a Nash, but perhaps 1930. These pics are of a 1930 Nash 450 six article I found. The dash layout would appear correct but it has obviously been modified at some time. The wheels are 10 spoke with 5 hub bolts. The rim clamps design appears to be like the "Motorwheel" ones on my 26 chrysler, but could also be Firestone or Rubsam in design. Not sure about the 3 spoke steering wheel on a 30 Nash, as I've failed to find a picture showing one. Viv.
  25. 1 point
    Here is the LONG version of the story of the Walking Beam engine that disappeared. This ran a year ago in the ACD Gazette. No leads came from it.As you can see from 3 or 4 of the photos when the car was built,that it was definitely a Rochester Duesenberg originally installed in the car. Dear ACD Club Members: In 2008 I bought the early 1930s Pop Dreyer built sprint car photographed below from John Jackson Jr. of Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania. His dad John Jackson Sr. of Winchester Va. bought the car from Frank Moore of College Park, Maryland around 1970. Franks older brother, racing great Don Moore of New Jersey, Richmond, Virginia, and finally Maryland, had Pop Dreyer build the chassis and body for him during the 1930-1934 period. Don drove on the Kline Kar racing team in the 1920s,up until the late part of the decade. Kline Kars used Duesenberg four cylinder walking beam engines in their factory team cars. My car had a somewhat antiquated by the early 1930s,Duesenberg or Rochester Duesenberg walking beam engine put in it from new. It is possible the motor is one removed from one of the Kline Kars when the team disbanded, since Moore was on the factory team. However, based on the photos, I believe it is almost certainly a Rochester Duesenberg engine, used in such early 1920s cars as a Roamer, Revere, etc. In fact we just learned that around 1930 Don was driving a Roamer, so I suspect the Duesenberg Rochester engine was removed from his Roamer and put into this car. A deceased older gentleman who was a race car historian for many years in Richmond told John Jackson Jr. in the 1970s he remembers his friend Don Moore driving the Roamer to Indianapolis and picking up the newly built chassis and body from Pop Dreyer. Don in turn brought the chassis and body back to Richmond, and finished the car, installing the engine and transmission. Don Moore was a fierce competitor in the AAA big car east coast division with this car in the 1930s and early 1940s.The motor blew up around World War Two, and was replaced with a flat head Ford 6 in, which is still in it. The car is a superb original, and was shown at the 2010 Amelia Island Show. The Duesy motor was set aside, and someone around 1970 convinced Frank Moore that he was from the Indianapolis Speedway Museum, and to give them the motor. Then he and the motor disappeared. Please read John Jackson Jr's. account of this as told to him by Frank Moore around 1970. This engine is probably still in a garage in the greater Washington D.C. area. Please share with your antique and race car friends in the greater Washington area, and help me find a lead to reunite this motor with its car. John Jackson Jr's. written account of the Duesenberg engine, as emailed to me in 2008: "Interesting written material about Don Moore. He must have been quite a character. He started racing not long after the turn of the last century. I met his brother Frank (Babe). Nice individual. Dad bought the #47 from him. The car was sitting outside in the elements in College Park, Maryland. I know dad made two trips to get the car and the related spare parts of Dayton wire wheels, magnetos, Winfield carbs, clutch mechanisms, etc. It was during this "gathering" process that Frank told my father about the walking beam Duesenberg engine. Frank gave the engine remains to a man presenting himself as a representative of the Indy Motor Speedway museum. Dad contacted the museum who responded they never received such an engine from Frank Moore. This correspondence took place in 1971 time frame. A good friend of ours, who lives in the Washington D.C. area, and was connected through friends with interests in vintage race cars, inquired around about the motor remains and discovered who had it. His contact would not reveal were it was. Frank Moore said the engine needed a new crankshaft and other parts, which Don had sent to New Jersey to have manufactured sometime prior to WWII. Don must have been much older than Frank based upon the pictures I saw of Don in his scrap books that Frank retained. The scrap books were a trip though racing history. I have copies of some of the pictures and memorabilia in the books. As a side note, the Kline Kar that now resides in New Jersey almost was scrapped per my deceased friend and former AAA driver from Richmond. He was contacted by a government authority to review the car and estimate its value back sometime as best as I can remember about 1983 or so. He told me that car was of which the Kline Kar was one. As I understood there was some kind of a disagreement within the family. One family member decided to scrap the three cars. Two of them were scrapped before rest of the family discovered what was going on. All I know about those cars is they had knock-off wire wheels. I suspect they were probably Model T's." Sincerely yours, John Your help finding any and all of this motor in the greater Washington D.C. area,,or of another Rochester Duesenberg walking beam motor,is appreciated. Sincerely George Albright, Ocala,Fla. ACD Member Email: gnalbright@gmail.com cell 352 843 1624
  26. 1 point
    Yes, I'm 700 miles from the car and have to wait for more pics.
  27. 1 point
    Your square item should also fit the 1930 DB 8 cylinder car.
  28. 1 point
    Found this in a coffee can from a fellow forum stalker.... IronWorker. I don't need it. I have a Chrysler CJ. Has a ding. Otherwise in good condition. Scarce as hens teeth. Fits 29, 30 Plymouth U and maybe others. Best offer. I'll pay shipping. Bill H New Bern NC
  29. 1 point
    Here is the link to Franklins for sale at the website of the H. H. Franklin Club. There are 3 good-looking ones within Brooklyn's price range: http://www.franklincar.org/forsale/#carsforsale
  30. 1 point
    This is what the text of the auction says (in part): "Burley Auction is proud to announce the public auction of Dick Burdick's car museum collection of select antique cars, signs, & memorabilia from Dick's Classic Car Garage Museum in San Marcos Texas. Featuring a 1929 Stutz Model M LeBaron Dual Cowl Phaeton, 1949 Oldsmobile 88 Deluxe Club Coupe, 1962 Austin Healy 3000, 1956 Ford Fairlane Crown Victoria, 1941 Chevrolet convertible, 1940 Chevrolet Special Deluxe, 1941 Ford, 1943 Ford WWII Navy Jeep with Corpus Christi Texas history, 1957 Hudson Hornet second owner survivor in unrestored original condition, 1937 DeSoto Sedan, & more. Plus an extensive memorabilia collection..." Thank you for sharing this, Victoria. It's always interesting to see what's going on in the hobby, and we probably wouldn't have heard about if it weren't for you.
  31. 1 point
    There is a New Old Stock, 30 Plymouth crank hole cover on E-Pay for 850.00. No ding. Are ..... You..... Kidding.?? !!
  32. 1 point
    I agree, ten spokes. The two spokes that are partially hidden by the hub can be clearly seen where they meet the rim. Paul
  33. 1 point
    Ha -- I was thinking of you while I was typing my response! Between the cold & the taxes I'm thinking of moving down to Asheville with my son!
  34. 1 point
    Lol, I have gotten the Ferrari thing a couple times over the years, priceless
  35. 1 point
    I inspected a Reatta years ago that hit a horse. Had a horse shoe imprint on the roof.
  36. 1 point
    Hey there, are you trying to reproduce this racer? Have you figured out the motor? I don't think there was a transmission. There is a model D schebler carb between the cylinders. It is direct drive to the rear wheels, probably with no differential, and bicycle wheels. If you had the motor, it would be an easy build. The car didn't have to steer; it just had to go straight. Did you notice the size of the flywheel? The steering is gear driven. The yokes at the end of the front axle indicates traditional steering. The sprocket on the outside of the rear wheel is a skip link bicycle sprocket Men in those days always wore ties. The racer was pushed off to start and probably raced from a running start. There should be further information on the web. There is a guy in England that racers a replica racer using a period motor. His car has no differential. It would be a neat build. One last point, the subject of this thread really should be changed to reflect the subject.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    When I built the barn for my daughters horses I was on a ladder nailing in siding. I did not have a nail gun. We had a rather large Percheron two year old draft horse that weight about 2200 pounds and thought he was my lap dog, as I was the one who fed him. He loved to untie my shoes. Being on a ladder and having a beast untie your shoes is a bit unnerving. He would grab the lace pull it the run and hide behind a 6x6 post! Of course he was a bit wider. You haven’t had to put up with that at least but I don’t envy you for some of the comments you have had to endure building this. Please keep posting as I find it most informative and interesting. Dave S
  39. 1 point
    You had BETTER listen to me as I tell you to listen to Ronnie !
  40. 1 point
    1966 VIP. What's it worth? Selling! Are you the buyer or seller? With a title, runs & stops would be worth more $. The Falcon - Ranchero also interesting
  41. 1 point
    IMHO soak it up in some real heat riser solvent (Mopar 4318039AC) for a day, and then heat up that shaft from the inside with an acetylene torch. Let it cool off. When its cold again spray it some more, let soak, and then heat it again. Do this 2 or three times over the course of a day or 2 while you are working on other things. then try tapping it again from the outside.
  42. 1 point
    Like the wildcat II concept better
  43. 1 point
    This exercise is one more proof of my long-held theory that auto manufacturers have, for decades, installed a tiny, undetectable component called an Urgency Detector which senses when the owner/mechanic really MUST meet a deadline, and then kicks in Obstruction and Failure Mode. Urgency Detectors are also found in Windows 95 computers, office copiers, and (for you really old people) fax machines.
  44. 1 point
    Welcome to the world of Rivieras. Rebuilt, rework, redo, replace but don't look for repos.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Dave, I'm sure glad that car wound up in good hands. I notice you've already got an Aussie accent. I may have some manual retard Monday night as I bought a new bottle of Wild Turkey w/ honey.
  47. 1 point
    I may be able to help you. Rand Broadstreet email: broadstreetltd@msn.com phone: 440-786-8141
  48. 1 point
    Chevy Camaro brochure from 1970 View the full article