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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Speaking of old gas stations: In Edison, NJ, near Metuchen, an old one bay gas station still stands. It no longer has two pumps but in 1957 it had two and a Chevron sign and was owned by them. It was between leases and the Old Man (my father) had an idea. I was fresh out of high school with no prospects, skills, or ambitions. The Chevron guys had a great pitch. The gasoline sales would pay the rent and everything else was profit. What could go wrong? The Old Man leased the station and put me in charge of the only employee...... Me. Gas was about 27 cents a gallon and oil about 25 cents a quart. Every morning I walked to the station and every evening, 12 hours later I walked home. I fixed flats for a $1 using hot patches on the tubes and tire irons and a rubber mallet to mount the tires. A wash job was a buck as was the usual gas sale. It was HORRIBLE. I remember a fire extinguisher salesman visited one day. He took one look at me ( 18 years old) and smelled blood. His lurid tales of guys being burned alive for want of an extinguisher was an easy $100. The old man was livid. We lost money that month. The Chilton repair manual salesman also found me an easy mark, but only for a couple of bucks. Mr. Ira Goodlife, if you are reading this I still have the 1957 Chilton book you sold me with your name stamped on the front leaf. I do still use it by the way. In due course it was obvious that the Old Man's plans of a gas station empire with his son at the helm was just a pipe dream. I joined the Navy as a way out and the old man gave back to Chevron the station to lease to the next unsuspecting dupe. Like most tales this one does have a silver lining. One day two 15 year old girls walked past the station. One of them was the most beautiful girl I had ever seen. A normally shy boy I was nonetheless smitten. I left the office, the pumps, and the grease rack and walked with them. We've been married now for 57 years. Thank you, Chevron. I owe you one. I don't have any pictures of the old station. The next time I go to Jersey I'll take one.............................Bob
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    One shot sign lettering enamel that Frank Duval suggested is the way to go, it is not cheap, and the smallest can you can buy is about $15 but will probably do 30 hubcaps. It will dry with no brush marks ( buy and use a quality brush, not a whisk broom, red sable is the best a #6 for larger areas and #2 for smaller ones, make sure you thoroughly clean the brush after use with paint thinner take the time to do this properly ) and look like porcelain. I have had a lot of experience with it, great stuff. It can be found in better/larger art supply stores due to cost and it lasts and stays glossy forever ( remember it is used to letter signs on the dies of trucks so has to be resistant to weather.) When you are done using it make sure that the lid is tapped back securely in place and it can be stored upside down so when the pigment settles it stays at the top and when you turn it over again for future use it won't be a wad of muck at the bottom of the can. This isn't theory or guess work on my part, I have used it for decades and taught art for 35+ years so was aware of every new type of paint available in every form on the market.
  4. 4 points
    Tin or wood is all a matter of taste. You can not account for others taste. Do what you like, can afford (or not) it's your money and property, but most of all do what your wife approves. Keep working it looks good. Dave S
  5. 3 points
    Everyone is invited to the 2019 - 2,019 mile challenge. This challenge is all about using your collector car in the year 2019. Basically, choose your vehicle and choose your mileage goal and then see if you can accomplish adding that many miles to the car in this year. There are no rules. You can use one car, or more than one car, if you like. You can go the 2,019 miles, or more, or less, if you like. You choose, and you keep track, and occasionally along the way post up how you're doing. Pictures are optional but we all like pictures. So post places you've gone, and odometer accumulations, or what ever helps you make your goal. In the spirit of Buick fellowship everyone is invited to join at any point along the way. As for me, I am going to try the '56 Super again this year, and accumulate the 2,019 miles. I wish you all good luck with your goals.
  6. 3 points
    Since the Special does not have the water pump in yet I can start this Challenge from the last "trip meter" reading of my last drive. I have to use the trip meter as the odometer is stuck. Will have time to get things back together as the winter is about to set in and work is slow but will be ready to let the good times roll when we get into the car season. Let's all have fun getting there.
  7. 3 points
    I’ve rebuilt a few heater motors and like was said, they’re not hard to do but there is a process of disassembly and reassembly. Oftentimes, the brushes must be pushed back against their springs and held in this position with thin wire or paper clips when the motor is reassembled so the armature clears the brushes and the shaft enters the bearing. Then just before the motor is closed shut, the two wires are pulled to release the brushes so they can contact the armature. It’s not hard, just fiddily as described in a previous post. I disassemble the motor, polish or turn the armature if needed, clean or recut the mica slots, de-solder the old feed wires off the field wires, then solder new cloth wire to the field wires. I’ve found many times the brush springs to be weak and replace them. ACE hardware has a good assortment of springs and I can usually find replacements easy enough. As also said earlier, most of the bearings are bronze and will just need a good oiling. Often these bearings are round on the outside and sit in a tensioned keeper in the ends of the motor housing. Soak the keeper with a good cleaner and using either the armature or a round rod of proper diameter, break this bearing free in its keeper as it should be able to move, though tight. Try to get the bearing bore back in line with body so the bearings line up with the armature but they don’t have to be perfect yet. Both ends of the armature will have thin washers on them. Don’t mix them up or loose them. Don’t switch up their order on the ends either. A very light oil on them won’t hurt. With the new wire installed on the field coils and the brushes held in their keepers put the armature back in the housing and pull the brush keeper wires just as it closes up tight. Tighten the housing screws but not real tight, just snug. Most times, the armature won’t turn freely and it is because the bearings are just slightly out of alignment. I take a small nylon hammer and rap the motor shaft both sideways and down on the ends. This has always aligned the bearings back in alignment for me. Retighten the housing screws. The motor should run like brand new.
  8. 3 points
    Ronnie, I think you are doing a great job and hopefully you will continue. Volume of posters is down on all the AACA forums not just ours. I guess there are fewer Reattas being driven as daily drivers hence fewer repairs. I do wish that some of the people looking for help would hang around and post about topical items like we used to do/have years ago but those days are now past. I really don't understand how anyone can take offense for what you as a moderator [and same for the other moderators] do. Someone needs to remind us of the rules and clean up posts.
  9. 2 points
    I was thinking tonight about vintage dealership buildings that still exist, either still being used as car dealerships or preserved but being used for other purposes. The thought was inspired by driving past the Howard Motor Company building, on Colorado Boulevard in Pasadena, California, right on the Rose Bowl Parade route this morning. The building was built in 1927 as a Buick dealership. In1938, it became a Packard dealership until the late 50s. In 1996 it was added to the National Register of Historic Places. It's now vacant, and lights were on inside letting me see some details inside. Here's an outside shot, with apologies for all the Rose-Bowl-Parade-route trash on the ground: And here's a shot of the interior from the front door area: And a picture up close of the entrance: Finally, here's a picture of the building from when it was operating as a Packard dealership, Noll Auto, in 1956: Such a cool building, although presumably less practical today than it was in 1927. It occurs to me that others may have their own favorites of old dealership buildings that are still around, either still being used as car dealerships or just in something close to their original form. If so, please feel free to post pictures! And my apologies if others have hosted similar threads; I looked but didn't find anything similar.
  10. 2 points
    Rings might be stuck to the cylinder wall from cleaning pistons. Stuff/cleaning fluid/moisture seeping down between piston and cylinder when cleaning?
  11. 2 points
    I flipped the intake on my '26 and used the carb from a 60's ford truck. Had to make an adapter plate to square up the carb. It starts and runs great so that why I would never go back to the updraft. It's reliable, automatic choke, electric fuel pump the best of both worlds and I know it's not original but I have more fun driving it than showing it.
  12. 2 points
    I look (lurk) at this site every day. Sometimes if I see something where I can help I log in and type my reply. I know that I have used this site and the ROJ many times when I was working to try to get my '88 Reatta functioning properly and make it roadworthy here in Massachusetts. My car functions very well and does not require much work to keep it "up to snuff". It is currently put away for winter storage waiting for me to pull it back out in the spring. Then I'll be detailing it every week and driving to local car shows at least once a week. I have found that if I drive it more frequently it "behaves" much better. As in; all the buttons and switches seem to work better. The car also seems to run better the more I use it. I am currently VERY involved in another "project" car and don't work on the Reatta unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Ronnie, you and others have helped me greatly when I have hit a point where I was a little stumped with something. I have the manuals and ability to fix most anything on the car but coming here has saved me a bundle of time when I was starting any repairs. I personally think you have done a fine job as moderator for this forum and also on the ROJ. FYI - I have mentioned that my wife keeps asking me to let the Reatta go. She has suggested donating it to get a tax write off. I told her I will not donate it because I would rather it go to a good home (for use as a driver or for parts). I'm pretty sure the car now needs the AC compressor replaced. I am on the fence about fixing it or selling it for less (probably $1,000) and a new owner can either fix it (and have a very good driver) or use it for parts. The reason is because I would rather spend my time and money on my "project" car.
  13. 2 points
    My perspective might be different than most as I consider myself a minority in that I am under 40 and have a love for brass cars. Being a single father (full time) a brass car is a toy that is unobtanium. The best I can hope for is to collect small pieces over time and hopefully get enough to build a car investing a little as I can, so far I have been collecting for about 20 years. Every piece I acquire is gold as I know that nothing more is being made and prices are not getting any cheaper. There may be a time in the far future when I am older and need to part with this car. At that time knowing that I will never get the time and money invested out of it and it will be a one of a kind I would rather see it go to a good home than make money on it. The other option would be to exchange it for something that I could enjoy more.
  14. 2 points
    Here’s a cutaway of a “torque master”
  15. 2 points
    Now that picture looks like something out of Last House On The Left....
  16. 2 points
    Thanks for the idea, John! I just reset the odometer today at the gas station so it'll be easy to see my starting point, too.
  17. 2 points
    Have you tried contacting Mr. Sorvino? He lives right here in LA. Sometimes it's easier than you think. I have done this several times to confirm or deny celebrity ownership of (usually) cars. I contacted and spoke with Robert Taylor's daughter about a T-bird I was looking at that he had owned. She was very friendly and helpful. Also spoke with one of Erroll Flynn's daughter's regarding a property her father owned. I found, if approached respectfully, some family members are very helpful and appreciate that people remember their family. I know this doesn't apply to Paul Sorvino as he's still among us, but if you send a contact stating that it is in regards to a vintage car, he (or someone there) may be quite helpful. Good Luck with your search. Greg
  18. 2 points
    Ronnie. You are doing a great job. I have been on a few auto related forums over the years and feel this is one of the best out there. There seems to be very little selfishness, envy or bickering. Politics and religion don't seem to be discussed and I rarely come upon a troll. One of my friends was a moderator on the Corvette Forum and said he felt it was like being a hall monitor. Keep up the good work.
  19. 2 points
    So, it was free recently? Now after a short while it locked up? I think you have a mechanical blockage somewhere. Don't break something! Ben
  20. 2 points
    Mission Accomplished. Thanks guys.
  21. 2 points
    I think Dave said it correctly, there are simply less Reattas being driven on a daily basis so the need to be on the forum are less. it really has nothing to do with who is posting what. Ronnie from what I have seen it is not an issue you have caused. As my college son says IT IS WHAT IT IS. If you enjoy what you are doing keep going Chuck
  22. 2 points
    Ronnie, Let me add my name to those who think you are doing a great job and appreciate all your efforts to help the Forum exist. Every organization needs someone to keep it on the straight and narrow. I'm sorry if some have taken exception to what is your job. You've always seem to be fair and polite and we can't ask for more. RONNIE IN 2019! 😄
  23. 2 points
    A thankless job for sure. No sense beating yourself up as it is a complete unknown as to why participants come and go, and I agree with Dave that it is a general trend, plus winter is non primetime for most of our cars. Personality clashes occur, many times for no apparent reason, and are somewhat inevitable, so what is, is. I am sure it was quoted from somewhere else, but my father told me about apologies: You don't need to with your friends and your enemies won't believe you anyway.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Thanks for doing a thankless job...........wish you would continue if you can
  26. 2 points
    According to the title of your thread, you have a 1932 Buick 344 (assuming series 80 or 90). The following is based on the assumption that you have an 80 or 90 series: The 80/90 used a Marvel TWO-BARREL updraft carburetor. You are looking for a modern replacement. To my knowledge, the LATEST (modern?) two barrel updraft carburetors were: (A) Stromberg UUR-2 used on a WWII White truck, and (B) another Stromberg UUR-2 used on the late 1930's Bugatti type 57. The White truck carbs used to surface occasionally through military surplus vendors, to the chagrin of those buying them thinking they had found the Leprechaun's pot of gold; only to find they needed to empty their own pot of gold to convert the truck carburetor into passenger use. And do you really wish to compete with the Type 57 folks for the Bugatti carb? Assuming you acquire one of these (or an earlier UUR-2, UU-2 OO-2, Zenith 105-DC, Schebler S Duplex, Penberthy Duplex, Johnson Duplex, or Detroit Lubricator/Stewart Duplex), it still cannot be used with original manifold. You will have to fabricate a fairly complicated adapter; and you may/may not have sufficient clearance for any of the above mentioned carbs; and recalibration would be a major/expensive issue. Mark mentioned the Carter type BB-1 updraft, BUT THIS IS A SINGLE BARREL CARB!. One-barrel -> two-barrel adapters do not work well, especially updraft; PLUS the largest of the Carter BB-1 carbs maxes out on 1930 and newer engines at about 315 CID if you had a single barrel intake. Using a 1 ->2 adapter, I would not suggest using the largest BB-1 on more than 250 CID 1930 or newer engine. So what are your options? (1) use the original Marvel (bet Mark enjoys reading me suggest this ) (2) flip the intake and use a modern DOWNDRAFT 2-barrel (3) fabricate an entirely new intake to accept TWO single barrel updraft carbs (lie to your buddies that it was a factory performance option ) (4) fabricate a new plenum/adapter to mate one of the expensive 2-barrel updrafts to your Buick intake My choice, depending on the condition of your Marvel and riser, would be either (1) or (2), probably (2) above. Buick Marvel two-barrel updraft (no, it isn't a 90 series): http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Marvel_10-1577_1.jpg Jon.
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    This was taken December 31st, I almost got to squeeze another 1k since my last post. Not sure what im up to now but I think it was almost 4k driving! Looking forward to 2019! (Won't be able to start until February i think)
  29. 1 point
    Approx. 8 and 1/2 qts. unless dry , then it would take an additional 1 and 3/4 pints.
  30. 1 point
    going in fellas Head first rotisserrie on the way see you on the road in about 2 years;-) progress pics to be added if you guys don't mind
  31. 1 point
    Welding the block is not a good idea. It can lead to other cracks and is more expensive to have done right than stitching. Stitching involves drilling along the crack and filling the holes with threaded plugs. To properly weld a block, it should be heated in a oven, welded and then allowed to come to room temperature over a long period. Even then a weld may not hold due to contamination in the casting.
  32. 1 point
    I think the Reatta was designed to be a halo car that would stand out from the crowd. The flat hood emblem replacing a stand up hood ornament was just one of the things they did to achieve that goal. I'm glad they did. I like the how the emblem looks and it certainly sets it apart from Grandma's big Buick. Not that I have anything against Grandma's Buick... I wish they had used a supercharged engine out of Grandma's big Buick in the Reatta even if the stand up hood ornament had to come with it.
  33. 1 point
    Mark, Look up Pegasus drilled head bolts. I barely had a lock washer in one of my wrist pins. Wiring these in place is an easy upgrade. You can't get a torque wrench in here. They just need to be tight. As for the main bearing caps, the person that line bored my engine said no more than 100 ft lbs. Hugh
  34. 1 point
    Please reread my post with additional warnings. While it may be technically possible to remove the oil pump drive like I mentioned, but it may not be practical in everyday life. I don't want to get a home hobbiest in a lot of trouble, so if you do not know Hemi's, don't do it.
  35. 1 point
    Milan auto show, showing the 1933 Packards -- the so-called 10th Series, introduced (if I recall correctly) in January 1933.
  36. 1 point
    I didn't intend for my post to come across as me saying I'm quitting. I just wanted to let you guys know that I'm willing to step aside if anyone wants to try your hand at being a moderator. This forum is a great group of people that have helped me a lot in the past. Thanks guys.
  37. 1 point
    A lot of Buicks in this great video from 1957 (as well as many other great cars). Check out the VW dealer sign that's visible on the right side of the street at about 1:17. It jumps out at you because it looks contemporary among all the 50's signage. VW has stuck with the same logo all these years.
  38. 1 point
    With the loss of rules, I’m going to work toward this...I have some thinking to do about how to do it and what to drive, but I do have some time to get that thinking done. The most direct route to Midwest City is over one thousand miles, so if we are able to drive a car to that, we will meet the challenge. At any rate, I will do some thinking and post back what the plan is. I definitely won’t be counting the modern Buicks. If I replace the engine in the Rainier, I probably won’t count that either as it is likely to be just the get around vehicle for the children.
  39. 1 point
    Good luck with that.I too had a '71 Renault 16,a TS model at that. I loved the 4 cylinder hemi, four on the tree, weird wheelbase that was different left and right, headlights that adjusted up and down from a knob under the dash, and really comfortable naugahyde seats..What I didn't like was the absence of front inner fenders.Road salt and slush ate their way through the body, right where the wiring junction box was located. Short circuits became routine after only two years.
  40. 1 point
    .001" per inch of journal diameter is the general guideline. Bob Engle
  41. 1 point
    The wagon fell through. Old guy selling it decided to keep it and restore it. Just picked up a complete front end from a model T with beautiful wood wheels. How'd I do on price? $150 Canadian. The spokes don't have so much as a crack in the grain. All strong and tight. It's too dark now for a picture, but this is from the ad. The steering is already locked, I think it has been a trailer in the past
  42. 1 point
    Yeah, the Maxwell gag was not intended to go on for decades like it did. Jack didn't own a Maxwell in the beginning, and probably not until much later because as J. H. Boland pointed out, he posed with many Maxwells over the years. There was a scene in some movie where he appeared in a residential street scene with a late Maxwell touring, very similar to the one in this thread. I think it was dark blue. There is also this clip:
  43. 1 point
    Thanks to all for the info and leads on parts to accomplish my mission of adding outside horns similar to what came standard on the '32's. Here is what this weekend was devoted to. A nice set of chromed short trumpet horns (that work) was procured on evilbay from England, though they were made in Toledo, Ohio. Thanks to a little blacksmithing and a couple of strips of 3/16" cold rolled steel, I made my own brackets that use the headlight bolt as a mounting platform. First one was easy. Second one (a mirror image was a bear). Seems Chrysler did not use a "vertical" bolt and a flat pad. The bolt angles back about 15 degrees, so the brackets have to compensate for the angle, and then "dropped" to position the horn properly between the fender and grille shell. Yes I know they are a little "cocked" toward the outside. This is a picture from the third trial mount. The brackets were subsequently "tuned" and now they sit level and square with exactly the same distance from the fenders and the grille and the light housings (X-Y-Z axis) to those in Rio Linda. And no the floor is not tilted. Old Mikey can't hold a camera square, as evidenced by the girts in the background
  44. 1 point
    Though I don't post daily, I do peck away at my garage build. With one this size, working all alone, it takes a long time to complete every phase. I did manage to get my soffit done across the one end. Finishing up just as the latest sleet storm came in. It was the perfect day, cold enough the eves weren't dripping but warm enough the lift would start. I also tore out the extension I put on the garage door opening and jammed it out with the rough cut 2 by 10's I prestained this fall. That one on the header was a bear especially by myself, but atleast the lift acted as a dead man. I spent part of last week, cleaning the garage and organizing the tools, fasteners, as well as cutting up all the scraps and burning them. I then went on, made up all the extensions for the trusses to put the soffits up. Finished the week off bending up a bunch of flashing. I still have alot more to do. Spent one day as well making a bench for my Son's work shop we gave him in the shed, even had an old vise my wife bought at Hershey to mount on it for him. Now I'm ready to have the door installed when it comes in. I hopefully will be able to get some siding on this week. Every phase takes so long, it's hard to see any of them ever getting done. I also found with everything it's handy to make templates. Here are some quickies I made up for marking the flashing where it has to be bent.
  45. 1 point
    Mr. Can we touch your car?
  46. 1 point
    Finished the day by installing the fuel tank. I had Moyer's Fuel Tank ReNu do the restoration of the tank and Bob's Speedometer restored the sending unit: January 25, 2017: Dropped the tank out from under. The sending unit was stuck at 1/4 tank. I ran out of gas on one of my first outings and had to be flat-bedded home so this had to get fixed. Stripped down and ready to ship to Moyer's. I went to the local bike shop and got boxes and with tons of packing material it made the journey just fine. Install the sending unit FIRST. I had to bent the fuel line a bit to clear the crossmember, I didn't want to hear rattles or have the line get cut by friction. Straps in and tightened down. Honestly, a five minute job once the sending unit is installed. Finished for the day. If you look into the tank filler tube, you can see a reddish-orange coating that is applied to the inside of the tank. Hopefully will last for many years to come!
  47. 1 point
    A few little odds - and - ends today. The most time consuming is wire wheeling all those nuts / bolts / washers. Then they get a scrubbing in paint thinner, a final soak in acetone to strip all the residual oils then two coats of gloss black. It takes hours to clean up all these small parts. Manifold Studs before I have a vacuum hood that pulls all the rust / dust / debris through a triple fllter and i wrapped the whole thing in a trash bag so there is no dust flying around. Keeps things pretty neat for the job it is. Same studs after wire wheel and rinse in thinner Sprayed with Rustoleum Automotive Gloss Black
  48. 1 point
    Rear Leaf Springs: Removed the rear shock Links and the rear stabilizer bar the other day so they are already off the lower spring plate. Removed the 4 "U" bolts by removing the 8 nuts (Which were rusted/frozen). The rubber bumper and it's plate come out with the "U" bolt closest to the backing plate Removed the shackle bolts from the shackles to free the spring. (This was the hardest part of the job. I broke one bolt and still have one in there. The other three came out) Removed the spring and placed it on the workbench Removed any remaining shackle bolts Removed the spring center bolt Pried open the metal spring covers and completely removed them. This revealed three broken leaves! Amazing how nice the car rode with such a bad spring under it. (Last photo shows what 80-year old springs look like!) Removed both shock absorbers, cleaned them up and filled with oil. They work beautifully so I simply reinstalled them onto the frame. So now I have a little more chassis cleaning and painting before installing the new springs. Hopefully I'll be installing the new rear leaf and my new front coil springs Saturday.
  49. 1 point
    Painted the block tonight. I carefully covered all the block openings with blue painter's tape. It's amazing how nice it looks when everything is the same color. 2 coats??? So now I have to paint all the engine accessories to get ready for the final build. My plan going forward is to restore the master cylinder and do a complete brake job. Then replace all four chassis springs. After that, a nice coat of chassis black (POR-15). Then I'd like to install the engine back in the chassis as I feel it's a lot safer there.