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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/03/2019 in all areas

  1. Speaking of old gas stations: In Edison, NJ, near Metuchen, an old one bay gas station still stands. It no longer has two pumps but in 1957 it had two and a Chevron sign and was owned by them. It was between leases and the Old Man (my father) had an idea. I was fresh out of high school with no prospects, skills, or ambitions. The Chevron guys had a great pitch. The gasoline sales would pay the rent and everything else was profit. What could go wrong? The Old Man leased the station and put me in charge of the only employee...... Me. Gas was about 27 cents a gallon and oil about 25 cents a quart. Every morning I walked to the station and every evening, 12 hours later I walked home. I fixed flats for a $1 using hot patches on the tubes and tire irons and a rubber mallet to mount the tires. A wash job was a buck as was the usual gas sale. It was HORRIBLE. I remember a fire extinguisher salesman visited one day. He took one look at me ( 18 years old) and smelled blood. His lurid tales of guys being burned alive for want of an extinguisher was an easy $100. The old man was livid. We lost money that month. The Chilton repair manual salesman also found me an easy mark, but only for a couple of bucks. Mr. Ira Goodlife, if you are reading this I still have the 1957 Chilton book you sold me with your name stamped on the front leaf. I do still use it by the way. In due course it was obvious that the Old Man's plans of a gas station empire with his son at the helm was just a pipe dream. I joined the Navy as a way out and the old man gave back to Chevron the station to lease to the next unsuspecting dupe. Like most tales this one does have a silver lining. One day two 15 year old girls walked past the station. One of them was the most beautiful girl I had ever seen. A normally shy boy I was nonetheless smitten. I left the office, the pumps, and the grease rack and walked with them. We've been married now for 57 years. Thank you, Chevron. I owe you one. I don't have any pictures of the old station. The next time I go to Jersey I'll take one.............................Bob
    5 points
  2. Thank you to Adam Martin (Smartin) for letting me know about this article yesterday. I have not yet recieved my copy in the mail. Nice to be able to go online and see it there. Also a big Thank you to Pete Philips for the article. It was a pleasure to see you at Hershey. And the Biggest Thank You to John Csordas for all you continue to do and have done. What a great way to start the year!
    4 points
  3. One shot sign lettering enamel that Frank Duval suggested is the way to go, it is not cheap, and the smallest can you can buy is about $15 but will probably do 30 hubcaps. It will dry with no brush marks ( buy and use a quality brush, not a whisk broom, red sable is the best a #6 for larger areas and #2 for smaller ones, make sure you thoroughly clean the brush after use with paint thinner take the time to do this properly ) and look like porcelain. I have had a lot of experience with it, great stuff. It can be found in better/larger art supply stores due to cost and it lasts and stays glossy forever ( remember it is used to letter signs on the dies of trucks so has to be resistant to weather.) When you are done using it make sure that the lid is tapped back securely in place and it can be stored upside down so when the pigment settles it stays at the top and when you turn it over again for future use it won't be a wad of muck at the bottom of the can. This isn't theory or guess work on my part, I have used it for decades and taught art for 35+ years so was aware of every new type of paint available in every form on the market.
    4 points
  4. Tin or wood is all a matter of taste. You can not account for others taste. Do what you like, can afford (or not) it's your money and property, but most of all do what your wife approves. Keep working it looks good. Dave S
    4 points
  5. Everyone is invited to the 2019 - 2,019 mile challenge. This challenge is all about using your collector car in the year 2019. Basically, choose your vehicle and choose your mileage goal and then see if you can accomplish adding that many miles to the car in this year. There are no rules. You can use one car, or more than one car, if you like. You can go the 2,019 miles, or more, or less, if you like. You choose, and you keep track, and occasionally along the way post up how you're doing. Pictures are optional but we all like pictures. So post places you've gone, and odometer accumulations, or what ever helps you make your goal. In the spirit of Buick fellowship everyone is invited to join at any point along the way. As for me, I am going to try the '56 Super again this year, and accumulate the 2,019 miles. I wish you all good luck with your goals.
    3 points
  6. Since the Special does not have the water pump in yet I can start this Challenge from the last "trip meter" reading of my last drive. I have to use the trip meter as the odometer is stuck. Will have time to get things back together as the winter is about to set in and work is slow but will be ready to let the good times roll when we get into the car season. Let's all have fun getting there.
    3 points
  7. I’ve rebuilt a few heater motors and like was said, they’re not hard to do but there is a process of disassembly and reassembly. Oftentimes, the brushes must be pushed back against their springs and held in this position with thin wire or paper clips when the motor is reassembled so the armature clears the brushes and the shaft enters the bearing. Then just before the motor is closed shut, the two wires are pulled to release the brushes so they can contact the armature. It’s not hard, just fiddily as described in a previous post. I disassemble the motor, polish or turn the armature if needed, clean or recut the mica slots, de-solder the old feed wires off the field wires, then solder new cloth wire to the field wires. I’ve found many times the brush springs to be weak and replace them. ACE hardware has a good assortment of springs and I can usually find replacements easy enough. As also said earlier, most of the bearings are bronze and will just need a good oiling. Often these bearings are round on the outside and sit in a tensioned keeper in the ends of the motor housing. Soak the keeper with a good cleaner and using either the armature or a round rod of proper diameter, break this bearing free in its keeper as it should be able to move, though tight. Try to get the bearing bore back in line with body so the bearings line up with the armature but they don’t have to be perfect yet. Both ends of the armature will have thin washers on them. Don’t mix them up or loose them. Don’t switch up their order on the ends either. A very light oil on them won’t hurt. With the new wire installed on the field coils and the brushes held in their keepers put the armature back in the housing and pull the brush keeper wires just as it closes up tight. Tighten the housing screws but not real tight, just snug. Most times, the armature won’t turn freely and it is because the bearings are just slightly out of alignment. I take a small nylon hammer and rap the motor shaft both sideways and down on the ends. This has always aligned the bearings back in alignment for me. Retighten the housing screws. The motor should run like brand new.
    3 points
  8. Ronnie, I think you are doing a great job and hopefully you will continue. Volume of posters is down on all the AACA forums not just ours. I guess there are fewer Reattas being driven as daily drivers hence fewer repairs. I do wish that some of the people looking for help would hang around and post about topical items like we used to do/have years ago but those days are now past. I really don't understand how anyone can take offense for what you as a moderator [and same for the other moderators] do. Someone needs to remind us of the rules and clean up posts.
    3 points
  9. I was thinking tonight about vintage dealership buildings that still exist, either still being used as car dealerships or preserved but being used for other purposes. The thought was inspired by driving past the Howard Motor Company building, on Colorado Boulevard in Pasadena, California, right on the Rose Bowl Parade route this morning. The building was built in 1927 as a Buick dealership. In1938, it became a Packard dealership until the late 50s. In 1996 it was added to the National Register of Historic Places. It's now vacant, and lights were on inside letting me see some details inside. Here's an outside shot, with apologies for all the Rose-Bowl-Parade-route trash on the ground: And here's a shot of the interior from the front door area: And a picture up close of the entrance: Finally, here's a picture of the building from when it was operating as a Packard dealership, Noll Auto, in 1956: Such a cool building, although presumably less practical today than it was in 1927. It occurs to me that others may have their own favorites of old dealership buildings that are still around, either still being used as car dealerships or just in something close to their original form. If so, please feel free to post pictures! And my apologies if others have hosted similar threads; I looked but didn't find anything similar.
    2 points
  10. Rings might be stuck to the cylinder wall from cleaning pistons. Stuff/cleaning fluid/moisture seeping down between piston and cylinder when cleaning?
    2 points
  11. I flipped the intake on my '26 and used the carb from a 60's ford truck. Had to make an adapter plate to square up the carb. It starts and runs great so that why I would never go back to the updraft. It's reliable, automatic choke, electric fuel pump the best of both worlds and I know it's not original but I have more fun driving it than showing it.
    2 points
  12. I look (lurk) at this site every day. Sometimes if I see something where I can help I log in and type my reply. I know that I have used this site and the ROJ many times when I was working to try to get my '88 Reatta functioning properly and make it roadworthy here in Massachusetts. My car functions very well and does not require much work to keep it "up to snuff". It is currently put away for winter storage waiting for me to pull it back out in the spring. Then I'll be detailing it every week and driving to local car shows at least once a week. I have found that if I drive it more frequently it "behaves" much better. As in; all the buttons and switches seem to work better. The car also seems to run better the more I use it. I am currently VERY involved in another "project" car and don't work on the Reatta unless it becomes an absolute necessity. Ronnie, you and others have helped me greatly when I have hit a point where I was a little stumped with something. I have the manuals and ability to fix most anything on the car but coming here has saved me a bundle of time when I was starting any repairs. I personally think you have done a fine job as moderator for this forum and also on the ROJ. FYI - I have mentioned that my wife keeps asking me to let the Reatta go. She has suggested donating it to get a tax write off. I told her I will not donate it because I would rather it go to a good home (for use as a driver or for parts). I'm pretty sure the car now needs the AC compressor replaced. I am on the fence about fixing it or selling it for less (probably $1,000) and a new owner can either fix it (and have a very good driver) or use it for parts. The reason is because I would rather spend my time and money on my "project" car.
    2 points
  13. My perspective might be different than most as I consider myself a minority in that I am under 40 and have a love for brass cars. Being a single father (full time) a brass car is a toy that is unobtanium. The best I can hope for is to collect small pieces over time and hopefully get enough to build a car investing a little as I can, so far I have been collecting for about 20 years. Every piece I acquire is gold as I know that nothing more is being made and prices are not getting any cheaper. There may be a time in the far future when I am older and need to part with this car. At that time knowing that I will never get the time and money invested out of it and it will be a one of a kind I would rather see it go to a good home than make money on it. The other option would be to exchange it for something that I could enjoy more.
    2 points
  14. Here’s a cutaway of a “torque master”
    2 points
  15. Now that picture looks like something out of Last House On The Left....
    2 points
  16. Thanks for the idea, John! I just reset the odometer today at the gas station so it'll be easy to see my starting point, too.
    2 points
  17. Have you tried contacting Mr. Sorvino? He lives right here in LA. Sometimes it's easier than you think. I have done this several times to confirm or deny celebrity ownership of (usually) cars. I contacted and spoke with Robert Taylor's daughter about a T-bird I was looking at that he had owned. She was very friendly and helpful. Also spoke with one of Erroll Flynn's daughter's regarding a property her father owned. I found, if approached respectfully, some family members are very helpful and appreciate that people remember their family. I know this doesn't apply to Paul Sorvino as he's still among us, but if you send a contact stating that it is in regards to a vintage car, he (or someone there) may be quite helpful. Good Luck with your search. Greg
    2 points
  18. Ronnie. You are doing a great job. I have been on a few auto related forums over the years and feel this is one of the best out there. There seems to be very little selfishness, envy or bickering. Politics and religion don't seem to be discussed and I rarely come upon a troll. One of my friends was a moderator on the Corvette Forum and said he felt it was like being a hall monitor. Keep up the good work.
    2 points
  19. So, it was free recently? Now after a short while it locked up? I think you have a mechanical blockage somewhere. Don't break something! Ben
    2 points
  20. Mission Accomplished. Thanks guys.
    2 points
  21. I think Dave said it correctly, there are simply less Reattas being driven on a daily basis so the need to be on the forum are less. it really has nothing to do with who is posting what. Ronnie from what I have seen it is not an issue you have caused. As my college son says IT IS WHAT IT IS. If you enjoy what you are doing keep going Chuck
    2 points
  22. Ronnie, Let me add my name to those who think you are doing a great job and appreciate all your efforts to help the Forum exist. Every organization needs someone to keep it on the straight and narrow. I'm sorry if some have taken exception to what is your job. You've always seem to be fair and polite and we can't ask for more. RONNIE IN 2019! 😄
    2 points
  23. A thankless job for sure. No sense beating yourself up as it is a complete unknown as to why participants come and go, and I agree with Dave that it is a general trend, plus winter is non primetime for most of our cars. Personality clashes occur, many times for no apparent reason, and are somewhat inevitable, so what is, is. I am sure it was quoted from somewhere else, but my father told me about apologies: You don't need to with your friends and your enemies won't believe you anyway.
    2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. Thanks for doing a thankless job...........wish you would continue if you can
    2 points
  26. According to the title of your thread, you have a 1932 Buick 344 (assuming series 80 or 90). The following is based on the assumption that you have an 80 or 90 series: The 80/90 used a Marvel TWO-BARREL updraft carburetor. You are looking for a modern replacement. To my knowledge, the LATEST (modern?) two barrel updraft carburetors were: (A) Stromberg UUR-2 used on a WWII White truck, and (B) another Stromberg UUR-2 used on the late 1930's Bugatti type 57. The White truck carbs used to surface occasionally through military surplus vendors, to the chagrin of those buying them thinking they had found the Leprechaun's pot of gold; only to find they needed to empty their own pot of gold to convert the truck carburetor into passenger use. And do you really wish to compete with the Type 57 folks for the Bugatti carb? Assuming you acquire one of these (or an earlier UUR-2, UU-2 OO-2, Zenith 105-DC, Schebler S Duplex, Penberthy Duplex, Johnson Duplex, or Detroit Lubricator/Stewart Duplex), it still cannot be used with original manifold. You will have to fabricate a fairly complicated adapter; and you may/may not have sufficient clearance for any of the above mentioned carbs; and recalibration would be a major/expensive issue. Mark mentioned the Carter type BB-1 updraft, BUT THIS IS A SINGLE BARREL CARB!. One-barrel -> two-barrel adapters do not work well, especially updraft; PLUS the largest of the Carter BB-1 carbs maxes out on 1930 and newer engines at about 315 CID if you had a single barrel intake. Using a 1 ->2 adapter, I would not suggest using the largest BB-1 on more than 250 CID 1930 or newer engine. So what are your options? (1) use the original Marvel (bet Mark enjoys reading me suggest this ) (2) flip the intake and use a modern DOWNDRAFT 2-barrel (3) fabricate an entirely new intake to accept TWO single barrel updraft carbs (lie to your buddies that it was a factory performance option ) (4) fabricate a new plenum/adapter to mate one of the expensive 2-barrel updrafts to your Buick intake My choice, depending on the condition of your Marvel and riser, would be either (1) or (2), probably (2) above. Buick Marvel two-barrel updraft (no, it isn't a 90 series): http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Marvel_10-1577_1.jpg Jon.
    2 points
  27. This was taken December 31st, I almost got to squeeze another 1k since my last post. Not sure what im up to now but I think it was almost 4k driving! Looking forward to 2019! (Won't be able to start until February i think)
    2 points
  28. I have a 1934 Chrysler Six Brougham 2 door AKA CA. The car has been in my family since it was purchased in 1934. I ready to begin the 2nd restoration of this original automobile and would like to reach out to other owners. Only 1575 2 door models were produced. I am not sure if any others exist. I have not seen many 4 door models either. Would enjoy speaking with any owners of a CA. Thanks!
    1 point
  29. Approx. 8 and 1/2 qts. unless dry , then it would take an additional 1 and 3/4 pints.
    1 point
  30. Mark, item # AN5H-12A 5/16-24 x .813 Grip airframe bolt, 1.34UHL, Drilled head. I also used new grade 8 lock washers. I do not reuse any of these old lock washers. They are pretty inferior. Hugh
    1 point
  31. Mark, Look up Pegasus drilled head bolts. I barely had a lock washer in one of my wrist pins. Wiring these in place is an easy upgrade. You can't get a torque wrench in here. They just need to be tight. As for the main bearing caps, the person that line bored my engine said no more than 100 ft lbs. Hugh
    1 point
  32. License/registration/proof of insurance? Yes officer. I have them right here.
    1 point
  33. They had bronze bearings if they had any oil it dried out long ago. Soak them good with synthetic motor oil and they will be good for another 50 years. Brushes are usually OK too. Even taxicabs with a million miles didn't wear out the heater motor. Heat and age dries out the oil and they can get full of dust and the brushes get stuck, that is usually all that is wrong.
    1 point
  34. A member of our region wrote a story for our newsletter on a car person he had met in the early 70s with 4 Cords and a lot of other interesting cars. The fellow owned Willson’s TV in the West Palm Beach area, a long time family business. He only referred to the fellow as Mr Wilson. Below is the interesting part of the story to this thread. A Sportsman, a Phaeton, a Beverly, and a Westchester. These were all the 1936 or ‘37 Gordon Behring designed coffin nose models. Half of them were running or roadworthy and the other two were in the middle of servicing or paint work. His Sportsman was a light yellow and in the fifties paced the race at Sebring one year. It was stunning.The two sedans, Beverly and Westchester were nice but the star of the show was this grey Phaeton with special modifications made in France. It seems E.L. Cord sent this car to Citroen of France and the French engineers had many ideas about the car. It was still front wheel drive but now the Citroen system. It lost the supercharger in place of multiple French carburetors. It was a little lower and wider and the frame had been modified in several areas. And all of these changes were painted a frog green to show what had been done. The French did this. I saw green changes all over the car. Brakes, suspension, you name it. And the surprising thing was it was HERE. Maybe one of the missing Cords?
    1 point
  35. Do you remember the turbocharged Dodge and Plymouth COLT cars of the late '70s? When you drove one of them, brand new, and got on it from a standing start or at speed, there was a very definite TORQUE STEER in those cars. That is what comes to mind.
    1 point
  36. Check this out. https://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/d/monmouth-junction-antique-trailer/6771086250.html
    1 point
  37. I guess that the speedster (aka, race about) is circa 1910-1912. The car's features don't match Mercer, Stutz, or Peerless of the period. The car appears to be professionally made (not home-built). The following are some features that I noted in the photograph: • The car has a monocle windshield, which has been removed (note the slightly darker area on the steering column, below the steering wheel). • The car has a step plate. • The car is lacking the fenders. • The car has four spare tires stacked behind the driver. • The car has separate quadrants for the spark and throttle controls on the steering wheel hub (a bit unusual). • The car appears to have an "aerodynamic" designed pressure tank on the frame. Likely for the acetylene headlights. • The gear shift lever gate design and the hand brake mounting is a clue to indentifying the car. • The shape of the cowl likely encloses an angled instrument panel board. • The gasoline tank could be oval shaped, as not much of the tank is visible behind the driver.
    1 point
  38. May I join? Just the 1950 Special Stealth Hot Rod! Ben
    1 point
  39. Not sure where else the car is advertised but you should try sites such as Hemmings, etc. that will reach a wide audience. Just my opinion. Hope snatches it up.
    1 point
  40. Took some time off for the Christmas holiday, kids were home, lots of running and celebrating. Spent several days working in my train room. It is mostly a collection of American Flyer with a loop of Lionel that was my uncles. Seven trains running at the same time tends to keep me busy... I cleaned this room several years ago from a unused room with a dirt floor and cobwebs so thick you couldn't see the other wall (like 10-15 years ago) and laid out the platform and trains and always had to crawl up on the platform when there was a derailment in the back. I have been planing for years to cut holes in the platform to access the rear areas from underneath, this was the year! It is so much nicer to crawl under the platform then crawling on top and fighting all the accessories. I haven't run the trains much in the last couple years so there was lots to do, cleaning, rearranging, adjusting, adding accessories (now that someone doesn't have to crawl over the platform) that had been bought but never installed. The block sanding continues on the FOR. Things are looking really nice on it, a few small spot will take a little more filler and then another coat of primer. I hope everyone had a nice Christmas holiday and wish everyone a Happy and Healthy New Year!!!!!
    1 point
  41. OK Riviera People: I really need to get nasty here. Carb King nailed it. A diagnostic procedure is the only way to begin fixin' anything. The question is ALWAYS...."what is the diagnostic procedure"???????? I'm sayin' it and I'm owning it....anyone who suggests anything except this doesn't know what the hell they are talking about and lowers the bar for all. Mitch
    1 point
  42. Today I got the new, stainless steel exhaust system installed. It took a lot longer than I expected. It wasn't so easy getting every clamp and pipe to line up, but it finally all came together. Then, to the front of the engine to install the water pump, thermostat housing, water outlet and the fan belt and fan. I'm really looking forward to starting the engine soon. The manifold / exhaust pipe clamp fit perfectly. The challenge was lining everything else up properly. I had to use my original Buick clamps, simply because they fit correctly. It's nice seeing the original style round barrel muffler. The previous owner had a generic Midas oval muffler. I like the original design under there. My only problem was that the new muffler is not labelled front / rear so I took a 50/50 chance and installed it. Hopefully it won't matter much. Water pump going back into position. I use Permatex Ultra Black for my sealant. A nice thin coat with new gaskets will take up the roughness of the castings and creates a nice water tight seal. Install the Thermostat body / bypass valve unit. I installed a 165 degree thermostat. Slip on the fan belt. Install the water outlet casting, again with black permatex and a new gasket. And finally, the fan is installed. I also installed a 1/8" pipe thread plug in the oil pressure hole so I can start it without oil blowing all over the garage. JANUARY 18, 2017 APRIL 27, 2017. I'm so happy with the progress so far! Questions: 1. Before starting the engine, Do I have to hook up the voltage regulator? Will the generator get ruined if it runs without a load or the regulator? 2. The radiator mounts to the front clip. Besides the hoses, how would you support it so I can run the engine? 3. Anyone know the thread size of the water temperature gauge so I can plug that as well? Throw out your suggestions. Hopefully its running soon!!
    1 point
  43. SPRINGTIME!! So, for those who have been following along, you know that I had to replace my rear leaf springs. In the series of photos that follow, I'll show how I prepared and installed the new set of springs from Eaton. When the new springs are delivered, they are stacked and clipped on the third leaf. So, I carefully disassembled the leaves, and marked them so they went back into the same stack they came out of, just in case there was a little discrepancy between the two sets. I took delivery of the springs, disassembled them and had each leaf blasted to get rid of any manufacturing slag and to prepare them for paint. These photos show how I accomplished this transition: Spring leaves arrived Friday afternoon from the blaster. (And some other parts) Painted every leaf. Top, bottom and sides. Allow to completely set overnight. Paint dried and ready for Slip Paint. I apply two coats of Slip Paint on all the rubbing surfaces. I wash all the leaves with acetone and the Slip Paint graphite paint bonds nicely. The leaves take on a charcoal grey look when the slip paint is applied. Second coat applied and and allowed to dry overnight. While the slip paint is drying, I spent time restoring all the spring plates, u-bolts, shackles and the shackle bolts. I had to drill out the petrified grease from the top and the side hole Install a grease fitting.... Pump the grease through it until it spits out clean! Repeat 7 more times. Back to the springs. Set them up in the proper order, getting the long side and short sides in proper orientation You'll see the grey "slip paint" over the gloss black. Don't worry. It looks sloppy now, but will finish nice in the end! First I use a long bolt to line up all the holes in two dimensions. Look down the leaves to be sure you are not "tilting" them in any direction. Once satisfied: Clamp it in position with the long, temporary bolt keeping everything aligned. Install the spring center bolt, It'll slide right in after lining things up Tighten up the bolt. Notice the clamps are still in position. Release the clamps and start installing the spring rebound clips. Notice I find it easier to start at the end, and slide the clip up into position. Then I install the rubber into the bottom, under the spring clip. A little silicone helps here A C-clamp is ideal to seat the "tabbed" end fully, and it keeps the bottom side with the rubber insert from "bowing" out when you wrap the clips around Once I'm happy with the fit of the clip, over to the vise to squeeze everything together and keep the leaves from slipping out of position. Tap the round hole over the tab with a punch Then punch the tab over to lock the spring clip in place and they are in tight. You see the thick graphite paint. It looks sloppy BUT... I then light sand the graphite paint that is exposed, wash it down with acetone and give it a final coat of Rusteoleum Automotive Gloss Black Springs are assembled and ready for installation! They look great and the graphite paint means no grease. they stay lubed and slide easily. Install the shackle bolts, then the spring plate...... Install all new rubber parts and the U-bolts DONE!!!! Front coil springs next
    1 point
  44. Transmission apart, all bearings checked and nothing mechanical done. The transmission shifted nice and smooth, so I opted to install all new gaskets and simply reinstall it in the car. I was instructed to heavily grease the u-joint.... so I did! Cleaned, degreased and rubbed it down with acetone and painted it Buick engine green to match. I will be sending the gearshift lever out to be chromed. Installed the flywheel cover and a nice copper ground to the starter. Then I riveted some extra "asbestos substitute" to the fuel tank upper support irons to replace the black sticky stuff that came off. (I had a roll left over from the Model "T" restoration after I wrapped the muffler) Is that enough grease in there? the only thing I want to do is chrome the gearshift lever Gas tank straps.
    1 point
  45. A few little odds - and - ends today. The most time consuming is wire wheeling all those nuts / bolts / washers. Then they get a scrubbing in paint thinner, a final soak in acetone to strip all the residual oils then two coats of gloss black. It takes hours to clean up all these small parts. Manifold Studs before I have a vacuum hood that pulls all the rust / dust / debris through a triple fllter and i wrapped the whole thing in a trash bag so there is no dust flying around. Keeps things pretty neat for the job it is. Same studs after wire wheel and rinse in thinner Sprayed with Rustoleum Automotive Gloss Black
    1 point
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