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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    To all Buick friends and families! Hope everyone has a great day!
  2. 5 points
    Got some paint down and put the old work bench back together. Happy Thanksgiving everyone.
  3. 5 points
    Hay .....where did you get that photo? It sure looks like my kitchen table. FYI. I did do a light coat of copper spray on my manifold gaskets. The upper ones are new from Olsen's. They are twice as thick as the original Victors shown below. I did prep the NOS gaskets with a Scotch-brite and lacquer thinner before installation. I used new studs (Fastenal) and stainless nuts.
  4. 4 points
    Here's a story from another website about AACA's willingness to accept and consider supplemental information before reaching a final conclusion. If only other organizations would follow suite. http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?54532-Correct-Air-Cleaners-for-67-912&highlight=AACA
  5. 3 points
    Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
  6. 3 points
    Dave, two of the things that you don't compromise on are your brakes and your steering. Do the job right! Can you imagine what your insurance company would say if God forbid you had a serious accident and they learned you used epoxy to repair your brakes?
  7. 3 points
    The GSX feature at MCACN 2018 was a major success! I think I can rest a little, now.
  8. 3 points
    Actually, quite a bit there to see. Even if the photo is a bit grainy. A number of details are not clear, but I think I can make out enough. But where to begin? In the first place, it is absolutely an earlier "black era" T. Meaning something after the brass era Ts which ended in 1916. In the USA, that style body (and fenders) was used from 1917 model year (beginning about September 1916) though 1922 model year with the straight (as opposed to slanted) windshield. There was a structural change about 1920/'21 which changed the upholstery tack strips around the seats. This appears to be the earlier style (1917 into '21) which had the tack strips outside the seat sheet metal. 1921 and '22 mostly had the later variation which put the upholstery tack strips inside the seat sheet metal (giving the upholstery a slimmer, sleeker, look). There was some crossover time when both styles were leaving the factory. Another change (in the USA) occurred in late 1922 (for the '23 model year) wherein the slanted windshield was used on basically the same body as used in '21 and '22. Picture clarity makes this next detail debatable. However, careful looking at the front axle appears to show the earlier "over the axle" wishbone which was used from the beginning of the model T (actually something similar was used on the N, R, and S models before the model T) all the way through the brass era and on through 1918. This one appears to also have an after-market accessory wishbone brace added to help stabilize the early wishbone that had a tendency to cause trouble from time to time. I am pretty sure I can see the double wishbone setup under there. The car does not have the oil sidelamps. However, this one is a ringer. Careful examination of the windshield mounting brackets seem to show the silver dollar size mounting brackets for the oil sidelamps. This is a pretty good indication that the car did originally have oil sidelamps. For all practical purposes, all model T Fords from the beginning through 1918 left the factory with oil sidelamps. From early 1919 model year onward, only the "non-electric" (no starter, battery, or generator) cars got oil sidelamps. From 1919 onward, the open cars with the electric option, and all enclosed body cars (on which the electric package was standard equipment), did not get sidelamps, or brackets for them. The windshield hinges appear to be the style that began in mid to late 1917 (often referred to as "unequal length hinges"). The wheels appear to be of the non-demountable type. This was another option change in 1919 model year, when Ford first offered demountable rims so that a ready spare inflated and ready to drive on could be carried. Prior to 1919, all Fords had non-demountable wheels and tires. But, something catches my eye. In the USA, all model Ts with non-demountable wheels and tires from 1909 model on into 1926, left the factory with 30 X 3 1/2 tires on the rear wheels, but 30 X 3 tires on the front wheels. The front tires and wheels on this car do not appear to be 30 X 3, and however do appear to be the 30 X 3 1/2 like the rear wheel size. Ford model Ts manufactured in Canada, did instead, use 30 X 3 1/2 tires on all four wheels. This caused me to look closer at the driver's side of the car. And sure enough, there they are. Hinges. Model T Fords built in the USA from the addition of front doors (about 1912, depending upon body style) through model year 1925, did NOT have a door by the driver's side. (I could give a little more history about that detail if anyone wishes?) USA touring cars had only three doors. Canadian touring cars, however, had four doors. This variation was due to the fact that Canadian built cars were being sold to other British common wealth countries including Australia and New Zealand, and the fact that some of Canada's provinces drove on the left side of the road at that time. Canada did not become fully right hand side of the road until shortly after the model T ended production. The reason Canadian built model Ts had doors on both sides by the front seat, was that when the body was being built, they did not know which side of the car was going to get the steering wheel. Another Canadian difference. I mentioned earlier that USA built model Ts got a slanted windshield for 1923 model year. Ford USA also at the same time, switched from two-man style tops. to one-man style tops. Canadian built Fords got a slanted windshield and one-man style top a couple years earlier, in either 1920 or '21. Interesting to note that their slanted windshield was different from the USA slanted windshield. This car has a USA style windshield, which was also used by Canadian manufacture, but for only a few years, ending about 1919. While one might think Ford USA would lead the way by design, and implementation of changes? The fact is that on several features, Canadian production got the changes ahead of USA production. In short, the car appears to be a Canadian built model T Ford, probably 1918. However, could be late 1917, or very early 1919. The car is quite dirty with minor damage to the front fender. The license plate is covered with mud, as is much of the front axle. The car is likely two to four years old when the picture was taken. Someone familiar with license plates might be able to narrow down the photo time, but as dirty as it looks, it may not be possible to see enough detail on it. The license plate does appear to be the taller size, which did not become common in the USA until the mid to late 1920s. Plate sizes and shapes were not standardized and varied quite a bit from state to state and year to year.
  9. 3 points
    Tomorrow, according to the calendar, the 4th Thursday in November will occur. In the US, that means it's Thanksgiving! As I've done for many years, I once again extended my heartfelt hope that all of you have a great day visiting with family and friends. While I've not owned a Reatta for some time, I still drop by the forum from time to time. It's nice to see old names and a few new one too, discussing the Buick Reatta. I belong to a number of auto forums, I still think the Reatta forum is the best! Eat wisely, and drive wisely this weekend.
  10. 3 points
    Same sentiments here. Happy Thanksgiving to you Howard and to all our Reatta friends both old and new! As Dave said, our numbers on the forum are dwindling, but this place is like the Hotel California - you can check out any time you like but you can never leave...
  11. 3 points
    Hit 299,800 today. Tuesday I will for sure drive the last 200 miles as I have appointments that start 100 miles away. Never have been in a car that rolled over to 300,000 miles. About 115,000 of these are mine.
  12. 2 points
    Eric, Here is a link to a thread on v8Buick for the lenses. Well made, but does not have the raised area where the stem goes through. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/buick-tachometer-lenses.258113/#post-2114132 Loren
  13. 2 points
    "He was so fussy about his Roadmaster. If he didn't get out there and start it while it was in storage he didn't think it would last the rest of his life."
  14. 2 points
    An upfront price clearly posted might help as well. I know I pass on many cars I see without a price. This is a nice car and Matt's words are spot on. I post cars here once in a while but have never expected to sell one from here and never have, though a few guys did inquire and one even came up and checked one out. Most of us are car rich and capital poor. I also noticed the convertible sedans seem to be slower sellers than the convertible coupes. There is a beautiful 36 Ford Conv't sedan for what seems almost cheap money (enough so you start trying to figure out how you could buy it) that has been sitting on my local craigslist with no takers, Yet any reasonable priced conv'ts seem to run once and they are gone. Good luck, it's a nice looking car. I took Matt's advice when I sold my Chrysler and though it didn't sell immediately I had alot of inquiries right after I re posted it as he suggested and even garnered a spot on Hemmings (probably a good place to run it) daily email of for sale cars. If you can score that spot (which this car has the potential to do with really good photos) You will be surprised the instant interest in it.
  15. 2 points
    Even for us, it typically takes more than 90 days to sell a car, and that's with a global marketing push, more than 20 internet storefronts, print ads, and an e-mail blast that reaches more than 86,000 car enthusiasts (not just a generic list I bought, but people who have actually signed up and said they want to see our cars). It takes more than 40 of what I call "touches," which is some kind of contact (e-mail inquiry, phone call, or visitor) before a car sells. I often laugh when I'm talking to a guy about acquiring his car and he says he had "a call" from "someone" who "was interested" and is acting like it's as good as sold. LOL. If I sold a car to every guy who said he was interested, I'd sell 12,000 cars a year. For reasons I don't understand, things are fairly quiet on any car for 90 days, but right about when we think something is wrong or we should mark it down, say, day 102, the phone starts to ring and we start racking up touches. Shortly thereafter, the car sells, often with more than one interested party pursuing it. Don't get discouraged that there aren't five guys pounding on your door trying to buy the car after a week and a single ad in a club magazine catering to guys who already own cars. That's a small interest car, a very niche thing, and it will take quite a while to find a home, no matter how nice or desirable it might be. And always remember that people will pay 100% of retail for a turd but they won't pay 105% for a perfect car. Price is by far the most important part of selling a car, everything else is a very distant second. Quality is often irrelevant to a buyer, although it becomes relevant AFTER the sale if the buyer feels he's been screwed and now wants to renegotiate the price... PS: If the Trippe lights aren't included, I think you should take them off and shoot new photos so there's no confusion. Most buyers will try to hold you to it if they see it in photos. Saying they're not included starts you off on your heels defending yourself and sounding confrontational. New photos will also show off the new top, which is a big plus. Finally, engine bays (and to a lesser degree, chassis photos) sell cars. Photos of the engine bay looking its best can only help.
  16. 2 points
    The chart would be even worse if you included time spent searching for that screw, nut, washer, spring, clip, ________, that just fell from your fingers that were numb from being jammed into some cranny that you can't even see...
  17. 2 points
    Modern fittings don’t look anything like the correct vintage fitting. It’s common to see so-called 100 point cars with all incorrect fittings. Some cars only use a few but many of the big classics use one or two dozen. I’m always amazed that people by vintage radiator hose clamps, reproduction wiring harness in cloth, paint inspection marks as the factory used in Assembly but then I see 15 modern fittings on the fuel and oil system.
  18. 2 points
    For the crack prone exhaust manifold on the 1941 dual carb motors I make a slurry of powdered graphite and a little oil and apply to both sides of the exhaust manifold copper gasket. This allows for some expansion and contraction without drag and subsequent manifold cracking. Also important to use conical spring washers again for allowing movement without losing the seal and vacuum. I find jeep Wrangler washers to be the perfect size for my 41. I also use torque to a lower then specified 18lbs. Have had no cracks and great vacuum with very good wiper blade action.
  19. 2 points
    Greetings to you too Howard. 😊 I've gotten so used to your Thanksgiving wishes It wouldn't be the same without you. We all have much to be grateful for, not the least being recognizing the allure of the Reatta and the comraderie of this club. Happy Thanksgiving everyone! 😋
  20. 2 points
    Love that vintage camera!
  21. 2 points
    Carol will be missed greatly by her family and her AACA family. The special thing I know about Carol is that she was not just supportive of Don in his hobby and advocation of AACA she was a part of it with him and active in her own right. Carol was a valued member of Judges Administration for many years. I always enjoyed discussing her thoughts on Don's latest car acquisition with her. My thoughts and prayers are with Don and his family.
  22. 2 points
    Got the dash painted today. The pic doesn't show off the pearl. It looks awesome!
  23. 2 points
    I only got back from Canada late last night but was able to find some time for the shop today. I have to fit the vanes to the slots in the rotor and, for this, I have to reduce their height a little. The pieces are awkward to hold in the little grinder vise so I came up with this fixture. This should hold them flat in the grinder and I can do both at the same time. If it works as planned, the back edges will be parallel with the front edges.
  24. 2 points
    Bob, You are awesome, my Grandfather took this picture about 100 years ago, and it only took till now to identify it. I am positive it was not his car, he was a history buff, so that is my guess why he took the picture. I just sent a copy to the Holsman web sight, I am hoping it finely found its home. Wish he was here to tell me more about the picture. Thanks again
  25. 2 points
    I second Terry's use of corn head grease. When the gear is being turned the grease becomes more fluid/ liquid. When it is not being used/car sitting the grease stiffens up and does not leak out of the gear. If you use regular grease, with use, the grease will migrate away from the moving parts in the gear and will not keep the parts that rub against each other lubricated. That is why the corn head grease is so good. As for still binding, you are probably right that there is still some crud in the gear. The crud could cause premature wear of the moving parts. You should be sure the gear is real clean and then reassemble with the new grease.
  26. 2 points
    So now the car will sit for awhile before any updates probably. I'm starting back on the coupe after the new year, so should have updates in a couple months, and then hope to make steady progress again...
  27. 1 point
    Well, I've let the 75R coupe sit the last 6 months, but not because I had tired of it or wasn't working on a car. Okay, maybe I did need a little break from it after a pretty solid year. I'll be getting back to it very soon. So, I picked this car up this spring. I was planning on just doing some touch ups to the paint, maybe cheap-painting a couple panels, and making it a 20-footer driver. I just couldn't resist a running and driving (but not too far for too long) all-black Roadmaster 75 for a pretty low entry fee.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    As promised two pictures of an old not cleaned partly damaged one, still in use. The diameter from the outside in widest 3.990 next (rim inside size of glass fit ) 2.668 Blue dot opening 1.285 The press of the glass profile is different in the Cadillac glass, compared to the one from the Packard in the picture, have a look at both glasses closely and you notice the difference in model of print, visible from the outside. Also the blue dot in the Cadillac glass serves two purposes, hence the split in the middle, it serves as a backup lens as well as a stoplight lens. The Packard may have this as well I don't know, the split is visible from the outside picture of The Cadillac glass, can't recognize it in the Packard picture. For me it's a Cadillac glass. Johan
  30. 1 point
    Route it anywhere to get to each end like they said above. just leave the old line where it is. You only get one chance to stop.
  31. 1 point
    REpoxy holding hydraulic pressure. Sure, just wrap it with electrical tape to be sure. Then tow it to the scrapyard, as you might kill yourself and others if you drive it!😧 DO NOT compromise on safety parts, like brakes. Running is optional, stopping is mandatory. Do not use compression fittings either. Illegal in this state. Why? Improper installation and they fail. See above about killing others in crash. Inverted flare fittings only. I have spliced brake lines, with inverted flare fittings, to avoid spots that looked hard. But now I just replace it all, since I learned the section I didn’t replace had to be replaced later. Just do it once. I use Cunifer for the brake tubing, easy to bend and flare. You may also find some of your lines have bubble flares instead of the typical inverted flare on one end. You can make these with standard inverted/double flare tool. Instructions on Internet. Always do a hard harder test on brake systems of older (as new as 5 years old in salt states) brake systems. Step hard on brake , then step harder. If non-power brakes, grab steering wheel and pull yourself up. A good brake system will hold this pressure. If something brakes, be glad it happen do in the driveway and not at a big intersection.
  32. 1 point
    @Frantz Your profile photo looks darn close to mine - it was stolen from me and found in downtown LA with 'Gangster Love' spray painted on the side. I got it back and spray painted the (originally white) body blue and left the top white - just like your photo! (Is your's a '53?). Glad to hear the great news because I'm more than cool with putting another era 239 in it if that's the best bet. Just want reliable, don't care about speed or anything! @28 Chrysler Indeed, it was the oil filter that was not replaced correctly, not the oil cap. @Rusty_OToole I will definitely have it opened up for a look before making any moves and really appreciate the info. Imagine - back when they built motors with enough foresight to account for eventual re-builds! I'm out of the states until spring but I do have a spot (Modern Engine in LA) who I will consult with to see if it can be straightened out with the current block. @JACK M That bad oil change was a long time ago but their response was "we'll refund the cost of the oil". @61polara "You may not care about resale value with a different engine in it because you will never sell it, but when you are gone, someone is going to have to deal with selling it." - Man, with all due respect, that gave me a full-on belly laugh. I can't be bothered with someone I'll never meet, after I'm dead, having a problem selling the car. I'd prefer to keep it on the road and enjoy it to the fullest while I'm alive. I mean, how should I feel about putting seat belts in it? If it was a '53 Vette or something, I'd definitely feel differently. Anyway, truth be told, it will probably go to my niece who will probably be better at fixing it than I ever will be! But, my heart is in going as original as possible, so I think we ultimately concur 😉 All of you guys rock for shooting me your feedback on it. Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. Funny enough, the guy who suggested the Mustang engine was the owner of one of LA's main 'classic car repair shops'.
  33. 1 point
    I have this side of a 1928 Buick Sport Roadster Engine that Larry says is pretty correct. You can get the correct paint from Bob's Automobilia or Bill Hirsch. My comment is that the firewall should be body color. I will note that the oil can would have been cadmium or zinc plated and heavy polishing will make a copper oiler shine. The fan is black. I have this photo from Rod of the opposite side of a 1926 Buick. The caps on the breather and oil filler should be engine color. The steering box should be engine color. The steering tube is black or nickle plated depending on the model. Nickle plated for the sport models. Hugh
  34. 1 point
    But just running the engine does nothing for the other moving parts of the car. Running the transmission through the gears, ring and pinion, wheel bearings, etc. Might as well make use of using the gas. Run to the store. Go see family. Enjoy a nice day. Visit your local pub and lube some other systems. You own the car to drive it, so just do it.
  35. 1 point
    Condensation also forms in the crankcase and oil pan. To "steam" that condensation from the crankcase, you should actually take the car out and drive it until everything has been brought to full operating temperature. Just starting it and letting it run for a few minutes to put fresher gas in the carburetor probably does more overall harm than good.
  36. 1 point
    This car will be better than new...incredible! I think I'd be afraid to drive it when done!
  37. 1 point
    I watched an episode of Bitchin' Rides last night and there were a couple of quick shots of two RIvieras. Dave and his crew were hosting the start of a Power Tour and there were a ton of cars gathered outside his shop. In the gathering were a white '65 and a silver/black two toned 66 or 67. Nothing more than passing views.
  38. 1 point
    You are right Steve. My 71 Monte Carlo which was bought new, has the very same one.
  39. 1 point
    Required by what person/code/government rule? Steve, it does not make a difference for your collector car. Whatever is easier to wire.😉
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Next, installed fresh-looking exhaust manifolds, linkage, and remaining components. Almost ready to run!
  42. 1 point
    Now to finish the sliding vanes... The first step was to make a fixture that will allow me to turn the leading edge with a radius of 2.128 – the actual measurement of the inside of the pump body. I cut a piece of aluminum bar, faced the ends and reamed it to 1". It was turned down to 2.2" – slightly smaller than the finished size. Then slots were cut, exactly as I did for the rotor but, in this case, a little deeper. I want the pieces to come out a bit too long so they can be fitted after the radius is in place. They were then drilled and tapped for small set screws to hold the vanes in place. After attaching the vanes to the fixture I set it up on an expanding mandrel. This will be a little stiffer than the expanding arbor I used earlier. And started turning it down. I ought to have milled about 3/8" off these first. The turning took a lot longer than I'd anticipated because I was concerned about the ability of tghe fixture to hold the pieces secure and didn't want to stress it any more than I had to. Eventually, I got there. Of course, while doing this I thought of a better way to do it but it was too late to go back and this seemed to be working. Here are the vanes with the rotor. They are still both too long and a bit too tight. They have to move freely in the slot but that will be a matter of lapping the vanes and the slot. In a real industrial setting, the slot would have been finished by grinding but I haven't the skill to do that and my grinder is pretty worn. Maybe when I get my better grinder back together I'll try something like that. Now I have to fit the rotor to the pump body. It was purposely made a few thousandths oversize because I need to do the final fitting with the bushings in place.
  43. 1 point
    Had another non Buick moment today. At least this car is in the family. A little history.... My Dad bought this 66 Corvair many years ago and did an amature body and paint by himself but had the engine and automatic transmission rebuilt right after finishing his paint job. He had many years of enjoyment with it. One of the things on his bucket list was to have a better paint job some day so with my son having painted one of his cars, which turned out not too bad, he asked him to take on the Corvair. Of course he was there helping what he could as he was diagnosed with bladder cancer about that time. His plan was to gift this car to my sister and he lived to see the car finished and managed a ride or two with my son as he had given up his drivers license a few years before this due to his failing eyesight. That was almost five years ago and bringing things up to today, the car is indeed my sisters but with no place to park it at her home in Tenn, it resides at moms where it was repainted. With concentrating on the Special I have not been too attentive to her so last week decided to see if it would fire up. Naturally the battery (even though disconnected) was dead so grabbed one of his old trickle chargers and left it till today. Took quite a bit of cranking but the battery seemed to be holding her charge for the size it is. Finally she took off and with nary any noise from the lifters, once warmed up, the chokes came off and idled like the day we parked her! I've emailed my sister and with her permission toying with taking her our to a Cruise Night to burn some of that old gas. Man it stinks! A little fresh Hi-test can't hurt... So that is the Special, the Cougar and now the Corvair all running again.
  44. 1 point
    Got the Special early this morning to drive back home and get the wife as we're going with friends to an all day Car Show in the City. The sun started coming up as I pulled in the driveway beside my Cougar to load up chairs, snacks and a cooler. I picked it up yesterday as the work on it was finally completed. Realised it is the first time these two have been beside each other. Stopped by one of my friends to meet everyone and to roll into the show together. It was only 62 degrees out and windy so jackets and windows up with the heater on were the order of the day... Picked what turned out to be a fine spot so set up chairs in front of the pizza place which had windows that opened up totally across the front which when opened we felt the heat from the pizza oven. The girls were happy therefore so were the guys. This is usually a busy east west four lane road but today they had about 12 blocks closed off for the areas BIA. Since I was # 10 on the registration list we were able to watch the cars coming in behind us from this view. Lot's to see and this mocked up Desoto Paddy Wagon with period correct drive train was fun for the kids (of all ages). The owner was letting the kids sit in the drivers seat which was nice but if it were me, I would have disconnected the battery as they were turning switches and knobs and such... Still, it was an interesting display. Here are a few other cars: This is a Canadian built Pontiac, Model: Parisienne Another Canadian built Ford, Frontenac Another Pontiac decked out as a Police Car. And yet another Chevy Police Car. All too soon it was the end of the show and while only warming up to 68, that wind kept coming in from the northwest so headed home to unload the chairs and stuff in the trunk then head her back to the garage for the night. Tomorrow will be another car outing but this time in the Cougar.
  45. 1 point
    OK here goes from what I've learned over the years of owning and restoring a 1935 KCL: The truck you are thinking of buying does not have an original box on it from what I can tell. The headlights are off something else. The dash instruments are from the 1933 Dodge car and indicates this truck is an early production. Later 1934 KC/L trucks would have a dash with large round holes for the instruments which were shared with the Airflow series of trucks. It should indeed have a T5 coded engine. A letter and $25 to the Chrysler Archives would get you the build ticket and it would give you a wealth of info including the original code for the engine (which could have been T12 but is unlikely.) The front fenders of ALL 1933,'34 and '35 1/2 ton trucks use the front fenders from the 1933 car and are somewhat easy to acquire. The rear fenders are UNIQUE to the 3 years of trucks and are impossible to find. You would have to repair what you get. The front bumpers are repro'd. The headlight stantions appear to be correct. The crankhole cover and the Ram rad cap are available. The hubcaps are most likely the "flat" 1933 car style and are out there. The windshield frame and the running boards are repro'd as well as the rubber for the boards. Anything else please ask I might be able to put you in the right direction. You're looking at $20K to restore it,YOUR labor being a large part of it.