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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/24/2018 in all areas

  1. You didn't get a 1934 Series 40 Roadster in the USA.
    4 points
  2. Drove my daughter and a couple of her friends to her high school homecoming dance last weekend in the 55 Century.
    4 points
  3. I received this email from Hulon McCraw this morning, with his permission I am posting this in hopes we can reach the goal and honor both of these fine gentleman that gave so much to AACA Thanks Paul & Lynn Gawel I had the honor of serving 10 years on the AACA Board with two gentlemen and past presidents who were stead- fast in upholding the cornerstone mission of our hobby. Both (Dave Zimmerman- 2005 and Herb Oakes- 2012) earned and maintained my utmost respect and support for their commitment and dedication to AACA and our hobby. As we enter into a new building fund campaign we have the opportunity to honor both these individuals by raising $15,000.00 each for Office Naming Rights in their honor. While the members, Regions and Chapters in New Jersey and North Carolina are committed to making this happen we will need help from the many friends both gentlemen made while serving our club. I felt obligated to reach out to members who crossed paths with both gentlemen and found them as I did deserving of this honor. Two offices have been temporarily reserved for a short time period so we can achieve the necessary donations. I hope you will join our efforts for this deserving recognition for both Dave Zimmerman and Herb Oakes. Your donation will have a double impact supporting the Building Fund Campaign and honoring both Dave and Herb with offices named in their honor. Hopefully you will choose to support both men. If so, individual checks must be made each payable to; AACA Building Fund and designate in the MEMO blank Dave Zimmerman office naming and on the second check Herb Oakes office naming. Mail to Antique Automobile Club of America, 501 West Governor Road, Hershey, PA 17033-2219 The families of both Dave and Herb are very appreciative for your support and honoring their loved one. If you have any questions please contact me 828-606-2918 cell or hcmccraw@morrisbb.net I work more effective by phone. Thank you in advance for your support. Hulon C. McCraw Sr. AACA member 573898
    3 points
  4. I believe all of Sandy's patterns were sold to Whalen Henry in Oregon. Sandy purchased 2 open valve T motors from my father many years ago and then used them for patterns to cast new blocks. I happened to purchase one of his blocks at Hershey a few years back. Whalen has manufactured an early 4 cylinder model B Ford for a car he had with missing motor. Whalen has a complete selection of "letter" Fords including 2 B's, a K and everything in between. He is a very creative machinist and has done some incredible work. I suggest you enjoy your Ford with the Brennen engine. It is an outstanding survivor. Most people that would see your car touring around would not know the difference and really who cares . The experts will but who cares, your car runs and drives which is a lot more that some experts can say about their cars. just sayin brasscarguy
    3 points
  5. This 1928 Packard Series 526 Six 2/4-Passenger Runabout was purchased by my grandfather in 1961 and owned my father before I inherited the car in 2015. The car is powered by a 288ci inline-six paired with a 3-speed manual transmission and was refurbished by the family between 1980 and 1983 with a repaint in cream, new caramel leather upholstery, mechanical overhauls, and more. Additional equipment includes a tan soft top, rumble seat, dual side-mount spares, and factory-optional cowl lights. Maintenance during my ownership has consisted of a recored radiator, new battery, and mechanical inspection in September 2018. This AACA Junior and Senior award winner is offered in Pennsylvania with a clean Florida title in the seller’s name. The early 1980s refurbishment was a body off, down to metal restoration that included bodywork, a repaint in cream and black, and the addition of a green pinstripe as well as the initials of my grandfather on the doors. The car was shown in 1983 AACA meets in York and Hershey, Pennsylvania, where it earned Junior and Senior Awards in successive shows. The car also earned numerous Preservation Awards after receiving the Senior Award in October of 1983. Tons of records including original purchase documents of my grandfather, original owners manual. Identical vehicle not in nearly the same condition recently sold at RM Sotheby's Hershey for $71.5K. Here is the link for the car: https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/hf18/hershey/lots/r0092-1928-packard-six-roadster/713421 Asking $75000 Please contact Pete English with questions/information or for additional pictures. Email: PeteEnglish11@gmail.com Ph: 407-474-6378
    2 points
  6. Time to update my vehicle list in the signature. Before the new shoes ^^ then after vvv
    2 points
  7. Mr Zimmermann, I have, for a long time, without being a member of this forum and without giving you proper admiration, followed this amazing project. You are an inspiration to all of us people who are interested in old vehicles but also to those of us who believe that mankind can do almost anything we set our minds to. All your updates fill me with the greatest of joy! Thank you so much for showing this and for telling us so much about it along the way! /Martin C, Sweden
    2 points
  8. Here is a picture of this 1941 Buick Limited 91 as it appeared on the showfield in 1971 at Bonnie Blink School in Baltimore, MD. This event was a CHVA club National Meet. It was the second Maryland CHVA National Meet in Baltimore that Al Newman drove this car to from California. At the time he put CHVA on the hobby land map, and later became the National President of the club. He had great charm and seemed to just draw people to him.
    2 points
  9. I just figured it up. This car pulled up in front of my house in Severn, MD while I was cutting grass exactly 51 years and 5 months ago. It was the first 41 Buick Limited I had ever seen, and I was mesmerized by it. It returned from California again in 1971 with a full family. By 1973 I had one of my own which I took to an AACA Senior in 1977. I have photos of this car in my file from the 1971 trip. Later, maybe today, I'll post one. The owner, Al Newman of Buena Park, CA was a hard driver. He and his daughter traveled to Pittsburgh in two days. She stayed visiting his mother, and he picked her up on the way back to California, again making the trip in three days. After remarrying he came back in 1971 with his new wife and now four children. I don't think they all made that trip in three days that time. Al became a close friend, although all the way across country. We visited him in 1973 and I visited twice, once while attending an AACA Meet in 1979, and once while on a business trip. Al passed away in 1989 and I never knew what happened to the car until a year and a half ago when it turned up for sale. He also had a nice 1940 Series 80 Limited (which he also drove to the east coast once for a CHVA club tour) and an unrestored 1942 Limited. In 1979 the '41 was in his garage, down and needing work. I suppose that is when he rebuilt the engine. Long time ago..............................................good memories.
    2 points
  10. Problem solved - cleaned the junk aftermarket switches and all working ( at least til in the morning ). Got an original pair on the way. Thanks for everyone's help KReed ROA 14549
    2 points
  11. I’m now working on the floors in the main shop area. Shortly after the concrete was poured and hardened, I put on two coats of the Clear Guard coating. Although it had held up well, I wanted to give it one more coat and then follow it with two coats of floor wax. The wax makes the floor easy to sweep. Now, It’s about time to get some stuff moved into this building.
    2 points
  12. I have been looking for a 40' or 41' big series Buick for a few months now and while this car is within my budget its too rough. I have seen several other Century sedans in better condition for about the same money or not much more. Even though it runs it still needs everything done before it can be used so it is still a project car. Maybe not a 5 but not really a 4 either. The interior is unusual but I dont personally think it adds value just because it might be the only one. I would not pay extra for it and Im your target market. I would accept any interior in good condition but wouldnt pay extra just because its a special order. For example theres a very nice 1941 Century sedan on Hemmings now for about $20,000 thats in much nicer condition and is ready to enjoy. Its on the other side of the country from me or I probly would of bought it already. It would take much more than $10,000 to make your car as nice as that one. I would gladly pay twice as much for a finished car rather than this project is what everyone is getting at. That is why you are getting some pushback on the price. Its still a project car but its priced almost like a driver. What you're father paid for it 10 years ago doesnt really play into what it is worth today especially since he took it apart. Please dont get offended or defensive about the comments people are really trying to help. But people are also not foolish with they're money and you will struggle to find someone willing to take on this project at that price thats all they are saying. Just some tips from a guy who has been studying these cars pretty hard for a few months now. Good luck!
    2 points
  13. There is an amazing amount of old s**t around. I can't complain - I have some of it myself. As I am sure we all do.
    2 points
  14. also, hence the word "nitwit!
    2 points
  15. Found a pic of my Buick used as an image in a calendar ?.
    2 points
  16. Had a trip out to the wineyards. Was a nice and sunny day.
    2 points
  17. In the early days of automotive repair work it seems the need for great accuracy was not as critical as it is today. For example here is a page from the Hinkley-Myers / Dearborn Equipment garage and service station equipment catalog from 1922 advertising a portable engine boring device that allows cylinder boring to be done in the field or in the garage. All parts fit in a wooden box for ease of transporting. Interesting concept!
    1 point
  18. eBay it, some Tesla owner most likely had one back in the day. Bob
    1 point
  19. That is a cool old mansion.
    1 point
  20. You have other possibilities ---if you haven't already thought of and tried (1) Many Cont'ls were issued in a kind of "series, in which several engines would share a few or quite a few parts...let us know which Cont'l you have, as it's possible there may be "sister" engines with the same drive gear..... (2) If the gear teeth are worn, gears can be built back up or new ones can be machined, altho may be too costly... (3) For NOS or advice on something that'll work try Garrad/Gerry/Jerry/Gerald Moon at Montes Eqpmt, NW of Chicago, longtime obsolete Cont'l dealers ..garradmoon@montes@flash.net or montesequipment.com.. (4) P A Ross Machinery in Dallas, longtime Cont'l engine dealer, has been mentioned as helpful with old obsoletes (5) Haven't gotten to the Cont'l forum here yet; if not already on it, post which engine you have there too...
    1 point
  21. After a couple of days off to replace the rear brakes on my 2000 Olds Bravada and build more storage shelves in the shop I'm back to the oil pump. The first project was to make something to hold the holding fixture since I'd decided that it wasn't possible to bore the body of the pump in the 3-jaw chuck I use with my rotary table. I had this piece of thick wall aluminum tubing, bought for a water pump that I later decided was the wrong way to go about it. Fortunately, it was thick enough to counterbore for the holding fixture. I set the fixture up in the mill and centered it... Then moved the table down .100 and started boring the offset hole in the center. I went out to 2.2". The finished size is supposed to be 2.5" but I want to leave material to be taken out after the brass inserts are in place. With that done I took the piece over to the drill press and aligned the input and output holes using the guide holes I'd drilled when I milled the recesses. They were then drilled to 11/16". And tapped 3/4-16 for the inserts. Screwing in the inserts was supposed to be the easy part. It wasn't. I had a lot of problems with them I suspect because the hole and the tap come out on the edge of a circle and deflect slightly. I probably should have cut the threads loose, especially as they are going to be permanently fixed in place. After struggling with it for two hours, I finally got them in. The piece now goes back in the fixture. I will bore it again so that the bottom edges of the inserts are flush with the inside diameter.
    1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. Left side looks like a 1936 Dodge. Car on the right is different, looks like early 1940s vintage, maybe Ford?
    1 point
  24. Thank you! Great collection of equipment, reminds me of the Kent Connecticut Machinery show. Bob
    1 point
  25. Apart from the harshness of the camera's flash and the shadows it creates, those photos look incredibly life-like. It really is amazing to see the car in that condition. (Maybe you could brush some soot in the exhaust pipes? It looks almost too perfect at the moment! )
    1 point
  26. I have done the same Joe- with exception of selling cars. Ive sold 4 cars on ebay in the last month. 2 people actually paid! yep, that is a pretty good percentage. LOL
    1 point
  27. I could tell that my car used to have the frame on the rear plate because there were factory spacers on the lower license plate mount that were there to allow the frame to clear the bumper when the gas filler door was pulled down. I removed them because I felt it looked better without the gap at the bottom between the plate and the bumper. My Dad's 65 had the frame when it was a new car, but it broke a few years later and was thrown away, probably why there aren't any around anymore.
    1 point
  28. If one of my followers is asking for something, I may well try to do what was wanted! Here are 2 quick pictures at a different angle. With a better illumination the effect would be better. I'm probably a better scale model builder as a good photograph!
    1 point
  29. Hi Randall, These appear to be a little thinner than the originals but that may be due to the pic. Otherwise, these appear to be originals. Tom
    1 point
  30. Norm, I would say its the agents plate. The left side of the dash is where they usually attached them. My 25 was a South Aust car, so Eyes & Crowle were the Agents. That car is close to me, so I,ll go around and have a look
    1 point
  31. Have some pics of the hood emblem which is the reason I started this thread... this seems to be more appropriately engineered as there is a raised square shoulder on the emblem which indexes into a relief in the hood molding. Fit in the hood molding opening is perfect. Tom
    1 point
  32. I packed EBay in a few years ago and have never looked back.
    1 point
  33. I don’t know anything about those years of cars, but if it was mine I’d toss it on eBay with a no reserve price just higher than the scrap price to make up for the pain in the butt aspect of selling that way and hope for the best. Lots of pictures and an honest description here on the foreign car thread should work too. Be better to have someone save it as opposed to scrapping...
    1 point
  34. Fortunately, there are more good news than bad ones, at least with that model. Routing the door’s harness through the floor was not a big deal; I have enough slack to solder the wires on the board outside the car; on the first picture, you can see that board in its approximate final position. The plan is to do the same with the LH door: pass the wiring through the A pillar; the wire should be long enough to solder them at the corresponding place on that board slightly out of the car. Once the carpet on the RH side was replaced, (the carpet under the feet will be installed later), I could try to install the dash; I had to take it out 2 times due to the routing of the remaining wires. The moldings at the base of the windshield could also be installed; by chance I could insert 5 from 6 small screws to attach the moldings to the firewall. The 6th screw could not be installed because, when I constructed those parts, the roof was not attached and that screw behind the instruments pod could be screwed in. Now, the roof is in the way…I will put a dummy screw to plug the hole. I had to shorten a bit the upper door’s molding, it was touching at the rear quarter and at the dash; fortunately that molding is just pushed on the trim! Yesterday, the trunk emblem came home from the chrome shop. Today, I put a new decal on the base and installed the assembly on the trunk. Honestly, the difference between the old emblem and to new one is not overwhelming; most probably the effort to make a new part was not necessary but I have now a part without design error.
    1 point
  35. You may want to post on one of the many Bimmer forums. The BMW Classic Club people might have an interest.
    1 point
  36. There was this one, but it is ''37.
    1 point
  37. Took the '25 for a little foliage run this morning.
    1 point
  38. The rest of the headliner installation went well; no broken panels, no cracked or broken retainers. I think it turned out great. I am SO glad this is done! One of the things I forgot to show previously is the "anti-rattle" felt pads I installed on the instrument panel, dash panel and windshield lower garnish moldings. These small pieces of adhesive-backed felt were applied to all the the metal-to-metal interfaces. The fender-mounted rear view mirrors are installed, too. These are the Buick Accessory mirrors; I think they are very cool. Next step is to install the quarter windows. After looking at the fit of the gasket to the inner quarter panel, it appears that the upper reveal molding retainers must be installed before the glass is installed. Here's the driver's side reveal molding in position. There are 2 separate moldings nested together and retained by a set of clips that go through both moldings and through mating holes in the upper sash. The clips have studs approximately 2 1/2" long which are retained to the vehicle with brass barrel nuts. I tried to fit the glass into the openings (with help!) 3 times...no luck. I asked the pro who installed the windshield and liftgate glass to give me some guidance. We tried to load the glass into the opening and he told me that the aftermarket gasket needs to be trimmed. Another project for another day...
    1 point
  39. https://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/d/1931-buick-wheels-fits-all-gm/6728507098.html Not mine, I just came across them while perusing.
    1 point
  40. Almost finished with the bathroom vanity - awaiting arrival of a pair of concealed hinges for the door, followed by the top and sink. Drawer fronts are walnut and frame is birch. The rest is scrap plywood and some old drawer boxes removed from my parents kitchen several years ago. My mechanics room is ready for tools and benches now that the floor has been coated and waxed. I really like the very hard coating as it is almost indestructible -called Clear Gaurd and I can get you more info if desired. The wax will make it even easier to sweep but no doubt dangerous when wet with oil or water. My 60 Electra has developed a knock and will likely be the first Buick to visit the mechanics room. More about that knock later.
    1 point
  41. You could, in a bind, run them like they did like this during tough times (the depression) just by doubling up on then tires!!! This is on my 25-40 I used for parts on my 25-45. Leon
    1 point
  42. i dont know about favorite, but most current atleast, and was great to see it outside for the first time since January. Had to shuffle a few cars around at the shop and I was wanting to spin my Century around to make working on the passenger side a bit more convenient. I am mostly done with sheet metal work on the driver side, with the exception of an area in behind the front fenders, I just need to clear a safe spot to store those giant things
    1 point
  43. Excellent! I much appreciate the step by step process of removal... Thank you!
    1 point
  44. AC Delco 25530882 pressure switch for Teves ABS systems My original ABS pressure switch has been sticking and causing both the red and amber warning lights to come on. Brake function is still good and the pressure pump cycles on and off normally as the pressure drops which leads me to believe that only the switch contacts that control the fault lights are sticking. I can reset the fault and stuck contacts by shutting the key off and pumping the brakes until all pressure is relieved and then restarting it and allowing about 25 to 30 seconds to re-pressurize the system. The pump contacts within the switch are independent of the fault contacts and therefore in my case I was able to carry on with no panic. Still it is a condition that needs a speedy fix. So most of you know that the original pressure switch is not available anywhere....at all. A couple years ago I purchased on Amazon an AC Delco 25530882 pressure switch because it appeared to be exactly the same as what I was looking at on my master cylinder. Of course when I went to change it I found that the connector pins were arranged differently. (Why did they do that??!!) I have done a local search for cars with the correct harness but I was quickly discouraged as most cars of that vintage have been sent to the crusher. So here is what I did... Small female spade connectors fit snugly on the new switch terminals but I needed to grind off one side as they were a bit too wide. On the original Reatta harness connector I found that 16 ga solid copper wire fits snugly into the harness wire sockets. I added a connector from an electronics shop for easy troubleshooting and disconnect. I verified the original wire colors assigned to the terminal letters according to the diagram on the FSM page 8A-202-22 After much checking and tracing and head scratching I have concluded that the switch diagram on page 5E1-74 of my FSM has terminals A and C reversed. The diagram should be as I have drawn below. New switch works fine connected this way and the correct harness connector was not needed.
    1 point
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