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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    You didn't get a 1934 Series 40 Roadster in the USA.
  2. 4 points
    Drove my daughter and a couple of her friends to her high school homecoming dance last weekend in the 55 Century.
  3. 3 points
    I received this email from Hulon McCraw this morning, with his permission I am posting this in hopes we can reach the goal and honor both of these fine gentleman that gave so much to AACA Thanks Paul & Lynn Gawel I had the honor of serving 10 years on the AACA Board with two gentlemen and past presidents who were stead- fast in upholding the cornerstone mission of our hobby. Both (Dave Zimmerman- 2005 and Herb Oakes- 2012) earned and maintained my utmost respect and support for their commitment and dedication to AACA and our hobby. As we enter into a new building fund campaign we have the opportunity to honor both these individuals by raising $15,000.00 each for Office Naming Rights in their honor. While the members, Regions and Chapters in New Jersey and North Carolina are committed to making this happen we will need help from the many friends both gentlemen made while serving our club. I felt obligated to reach out to members who crossed paths with both gentlemen and found them as I did deserving of this honor. Two offices have been temporarily reserved for a short time period so we can achieve the necessary donations. I hope you will join our efforts for this deserving recognition for both Dave Zimmerman and Herb Oakes. Your donation will have a double impact supporting the Building Fund Campaign and honoring both Dave and Herb with offices named in their honor. Hopefully you will choose to support both men. If so, individual checks must be made each payable to; AACA Building Fund and designate in the MEMO blank Dave Zimmerman office naming and on the second check Herb Oakes office naming. Mail to Antique Automobile Club of America, 501 West Governor Road, Hershey, PA 17033-2219 The families of both Dave and Herb are very appreciative for your support and honoring their loved one. If you have any questions please contact me 828-606-2918 cell or hcmccraw@morrisbb.net I work more effective by phone. Thank you in advance for your support. Hulon C. McCraw Sr. AACA member 573898
  4. 3 points
  5. 2 points
    I just figured it up. This car pulled up in front of my house in Severn, MD while I was cutting grass exactly 51 years and 5 months ago. It was the first 41 Buick Limited I had ever seen, and I was mesmerized by it. It returned from California again in 1971 with a full family. By 1973 I had one of my own which I took to an AACA Senior in 1977. I have photos of this car in my file from the 1971 trip. Later, maybe today, I'll post one. The owner, Al Newman of Buena Park, CA was a hard driver. He and his daughter traveled to Pittsburgh in two days. She stayed visiting his mother, and he picked her up on the way back to California, again making the trip in three days. After remarrying he came back in 1971 with his new wife and now four children. I don't think they all made that trip in three days that time. Al became a close friend, although all the way across country. We visited him in 1973 and I visited twice, once while attending an AACA Meet in 1979, and once while on a business trip. Al passed away in 1989 and I never knew what happened to the car until a year and a half ago when it turned up for sale. He also had a nice 1940 Series 80 Limited (which he also drove to the east coast once for a CHVA club tour) and an unrestored 1942 Limited. In 1979 the '41 was in his garage, down and needing work. I suppose that is when he rebuilt the engine. Long time ago..............................................good memories.
  6. 2 points
    Problem solved - cleaned the junk aftermarket switches and all working ( at least til in the morning ). Got an original pair on the way. Thanks for everyone's help KReed ROA 14549
  7. 2 points
    I have been looking for a 40' or 41' big series Buick for a few months now and while this car is within my budget its too rough. I have seen several other Century sedans in better condition for about the same money or not much more. Even though it runs it still needs everything done before it can be used so it is still a project car. Maybe not a 5 but not really a 4 either. The interior is unusual but I dont personally think it adds value just because it might be the only one. I would not pay extra for it and Im your target market. I would accept any interior in good condition but wouldnt pay extra just because its a special order. For example theres a very nice 1941 Century sedan on Hemmings now for about $20,000 thats in much nicer condition and is ready to enjoy. Its on the other side of the country from me or I probly would of bought it already. It would take much more than $10,000 to make your car as nice as that one. I would gladly pay twice as much for a finished car rather than this project is what everyone is getting at. That is why you are getting some pushback on the price. Its still a project car but its priced almost like a driver. What you're father paid for it 10 years ago doesnt really play into what it is worth today especially since he took it apart. Please dont get offended or defensive about the comments people are really trying to help. But people are also not foolish with they're money and you will struggle to find someone willing to take on this project at that price thats all they are saying. Just some tips from a guy who has been studying these cars pretty hard for a few months now. Good luck!
  8. 2 points
    There is an amazing amount of old s**t around. I can't complain - I have some of it myself. As I am sure we all do.
  9. 2 points
    Found a pic of my Buick used as an image in a calendar ?.
  10. 1 point
    I just bought a '63 T-Bird, and I have a few model specific questions about things like the power steering system, power seats, swing away wheel, and whatnot. It looks like most of the T-Bird forums are a bit dead...anyone know of a good one that's reasonably well-populated? I'll attach a picture of the car; it's pretty awesome. :)
  11. 1 point
    That is a cool old mansion.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    You have other possibilities ---if you haven't already thought of and tried (1) Many Cont'ls were issued in a kind of "series, in which several engines would share a few or quite a few parts...let us know which Cont'l you have, as it's possible there may be "sister" engines with the same drive gear..... (2) If the gear teeth are worn, gears can be built back up or new ones can be machined, altho may be too costly... (3) For NOS or advice on something that'll work try Garrad/Gerry/Jerry/Gerald Moon at Montes Eqpmt, NW of Chicago, longtime obsolete Cont'l dealers ..garradmoon@montes@flash.net or montesequipment.com.. (4) P A Ross Machinery in Dallas, longtime Cont'l engine dealer, has been mentioned as helpful with old obsoletes (5) Haven't gotten to the Cont'l forum here yet; if not already on it, post which engine you have there too...
  14. 1 point
    After a couple of days off to replace the rear brakes on my 2000 Olds Bravada and build more storage shelves in the shop I'm back to the oil pump. The first project was to make something to hold the holding fixture since I'd decided that it wasn't possible to bore the body of the pump in the 3-jaw chuck I use with my rotary table. I had this piece of thick wall aluminum tubing, bought for a water pump that I later decided was the wrong way to go about it. Fortunately, it was thick enough to counterbore for the holding fixture. I set the fixture up in the mill and centered it... Then moved the table down .100 and started boring the offset hole in the center. I went out to 2.2". The finished size is supposed to be 2.5" but I want to leave material to be taken out after the brass inserts are in place. With that done I took the piece over to the drill press and aligned the input and output holes using the guide holes I'd drilled when I milled the recesses. They were then drilled to 11/16". And tapped 3/4-16 for the inserts. Screwing in the inserts was supposed to be the easy part. It wasn't. I had a lot of problems with them I suspect because the hole and the tap come out on the edge of a circle and deflect slightly. I probably should have cut the threads loose, especially as they are going to be permanently fixed in place. After struggling with it for two hours, I finally got them in. The piece now goes back in the fixture. I will bore it again so that the bottom edges of the inserts are flush with the inside diameter.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I think car on the right is a 1940 Ford.
  17. 1 point
    Left side looks like a 1936 Dodge. Car on the right is different, looks like early 1940s vintage, maybe Ford?
  18. 1 point
    I am sure it could be done, but would be easier to just fix it correctly. Be sure if you rig that up the ignition doesn't power up till you have oil pressure, or very bad things could occur.
  19. 1 point
    Ebay can be a pain but once you figure out how to navigate it, Carefully read the descriptions, ask questions first, can be a great resource for stuff not available elsewhere. Especially when dealing with old cars. As much as I enjoy Hershey and bought 355 pieces of literature while I was there, I also bought the same amount or more off ebay when I was in my Hotel room before and after the show. I have also found alot of parts I was never able to buy at Hershey and often at prices I would have never gotten if I could have found them, plus it's open 365 days a year and not contained to 4 days weather permitting from 8 or 10 AM to 3 or so in the afternoon when everyone starts packing it in.
  20. 1 point
    Hi Randall, These appear to be a little thinner than the originals but that may be due to the pic. Otherwise, these appear to be originals. Tom
  21. 1 point
    CPS's are notorious (at least on the 3800) for getting intermittent. Don't forget to use a folded matchbook thickness paper shim for alignment.
  22. 1 point
    Hello Jp Thank you for your concern. I will be getting a signed statment from the specialist firm in the UK that are relining the gearbox bands and top-gear cone, stating that they are Asbestos Free and a similar one from the Brake firm.( Your friends at Eltham) who will be relining the brake shoesThe car does not have a clutch! There is just one gasket in the exhaust system and I will replace that also with a certified Asbestos free gasket that I can cut myself. I am already talking with our shipping man, Greg Gibson who has vast experience in shipping our cars into and out of Melbourne. We packed the Fiat 501 to go to England yesterday. I have shipped our present Lagonda to and from England before (seven times) and I do not know how many other cars either coming or going over the past 50 (approx) years. If you are sufficiently interested you are welcome to come and look at the wonders of a Preselect gearbox before I put it together and back into the car. Just let me know before you come. I will make and fit a new exhaust flange gasket before the car departs and retain an off cut of the material used, if anyone needs to either look at it or test it to destruction.I carry a spare NEW head gasket in the tool locker in the rear of the car so it will be easy to show anyone who is likely to need to see it. The gaskets under the carbs and between the inlet manifolds are made of a heavy paper that I also cut myself. I am sure I can find a sample of the material or even a spare gasket if needed. I believe that I am reasonably experienced in both working on the Lagonda engine, etc and shipping the car back and forth, to and from, England. I do not live all that far from you and there is a standing invitation for you to come and see me. I can promise you that regardless of age, I am not in the final stages of Dementia! I am reasonably sure that there will be no over looked Asbestos fibres left anywhere in or around the gearbox. Again, all I ask is that you please let me know before you come. Bernie j.
  23. 1 point
    I for one don't like the idea of sub-categories.Some things are buried or hard to find especially for new members. I also think What- is-it should be a category of its own and all the photos and videos should be as one.
  24. 1 point
    The windows all go up and down now. I believe the motor needs to be rebuilt though because once one window goes up I have to wait about 3-5 minutes before putting another one up. If I don’t the motor cuts out. I found my short that was plaguing me. When the rear doors would open the power to the rear controls would stop working. All of the wires seemed to be intact. I couldn’t turn on the dome light by the switches at the B pillar and at the rear seats. After some testing I found that the current was backfeeding into the dashboard. I replaced all of the wires leading under the carpet from the rear to the dashboard. One of the wires was snapped inside the harness. Once I replaced those the rear had power whether the door was opened or closed. The passenger side door light turned on when the door was opened. The driver’s side door doesn’t turn on but I am thinking that it is a bulb that needs to be replaced. And I can turn the dome light on by the B pillar switch. I broke the rear seat switch so I can’t test that. I started working on the underseat heaters. The front heater works great, the rear blower turns on. The rear underseat heaters are frozen so I need to take them out and clean them. I killed the battery so I had to call it a day. The car looks like a mess right now with the wires and tools everywhere and the seats out. ?
  25. 1 point
    Norm, I would say its the agents plate. The left side of the dash is where they usually attached them. My 25 was a South Aust car, so Eyes & Crowle were the Agents. That car is close to me, so I,ll go around and have a look
  26. 1 point
    Queer that the circuits found a good ground when the switches were removed from the body/disconnected and all the manual switches were off?? But... sometimes voltage will seek out ground in unanticipated pathways. Good to hear it was relatively painless, Tom
  27. 1 point
    Greetings I was noticing that there were really no resources for purchasing license plate frames for antique license plates which are normally a different size than the modern plates. I decide to start cranking some out using my CNC machine. They are turning out really great in my opinion. I use a rotary CNC machine which allows me to produced crisp clean lines, and also allows me to engrave into the surface instead of just cutting all of the way through the material. This engraved area can then be color filled with contrasting colors. I can create any size and custom wording or graphics to your liking are added. We are very flexible in our services. We normally sell in unfinished, powder coated, or chrome finish. Image 1 - Uses our Wacky font and is chrome plated. Image 2 - Uses our cartoon font and is unfinished. Words on bottom like this works better on some applications. Image 3 - An idea to create your own dealer frame Image 4 - An idea on how we can incorporate graphics instead of just text. Image 5 - Shows how the color fill looks on chrome. Thanks Jeff www.BossBadges.com
  28. 1 point
    Have some pics of the hood emblem which is the reason I started this thread... this seems to be more appropriately engineered as there is a raised square shoulder on the emblem which indexes into a relief in the hood molding. Fit in the hood molding opening is perfect. Tom
  29. 1 point
    Ed, Perhaps you havnt been looking for them because you did not know they were the original plate frames? I see them on some cars at the meets, they can be obtained on Ebay and occasionally NOS frames appear on Ebay. I have the rest.....LOL...point is, they are around Tom
  30. 1 point
    I packed EBay in a few years ago and have never looked back.
  31. 1 point
    Now you can have authentic, original style 1936 "air conditioning".
  32. 1 point
    I know exactly what my father and I paid for the Century ten years ago and it was a number significantly above the price of a "#5 car". Harold Zulick placed an ad in Hemmings, we traveled to his home, inspected the car and paid his price based on the rarity of the interior option and the low mileage on the odometer. We performed a lot of work to get the car running and it runs well--no blue smoke out the tail pipe and no known exhaust leaks. At the time, Terry Dunham agreed that it was the only Century known with the 913 (Limited Series) interior code. We accumulated additional accessories and NOS parts over the years. Yes, it is rusty and a four-door sedan, but there is not another 1941 Century out there with a two-tone, wool broadcloth interior, to my knowledge. Additionally, I have already done my research as I consulted with one 1941 Buick expert on the car's value prior to placing the ad. Thank you.
  33. 1 point
    I don’t know anything about those years of cars, but if it was mine I’d toss it on eBay with a no reserve price just higher than the scrap price to make up for the pain in the butt aspect of selling that way and hope for the best. Lots of pictures and an honest description here on the foreign car thread should work too. Be better to have someone save it as opposed to scrapping...
  34. 1 point
    Personally, In a perfect world that would be fine. In this world, it would be a bad idea. You have no idea how much time the moderators spend moving things now when people post them in the wrong category. The more categories you have, the more things that will be posted in the wrong category. Most forum members simply do not pay close attention to which forum they are posting in.
  35. 1 point
    It seems you're serious about getting the car sold. It might be time to do some research into what a car in its condition is worth. This is basically a #5 car, and not the most desirable body style. I'll leave it to you to check the value guides. It'd be a shame for you to be insulted by what is actually a fair offer. Good luck.
  36. 1 point
    That is the directions I copied Forgot it was for a 37 but same directions for a 36. Thanks Tom
  37. 1 point
    Had to make up some new floor/toe boards as the existing ones were disintegrating. with the fittings attached fitted to the car
  38. 1 point
    The rest of the headliner installation went well; no broken panels, no cracked or broken retainers. I think it turned out great. I am SO glad this is done! One of the things I forgot to show previously is the "anti-rattle" felt pads I installed on the instrument panel, dash panel and windshield lower garnish moldings. These small pieces of adhesive-backed felt were applied to all the the metal-to-metal interfaces. The fender-mounted rear view mirrors are installed, too. These are the Buick Accessory mirrors; I think they are very cool. Next step is to install the quarter windows. After looking at the fit of the gasket to the inner quarter panel, it appears that the upper reveal molding retainers must be installed before the glass is installed. Here's the driver's side reveal molding in position. There are 2 separate moldings nested together and retained by a set of clips that go through both moldings and through mating holes in the upper sash. The clips have studs approximately 2 1/2" long which are retained to the vehicle with brass barrel nuts. I tried to fit the glass into the openings (with help!) 3 times...no luck. I asked the pro who installed the windshield and liftgate glass to give me some guidance. We tried to load the glass into the opening and he told me that the aftermarket gasket needs to be trimmed. Another project for another day...
  39. 1 point
    https://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/d/1931-buick-wheels-fits-all-gm/6728507098.html Not mine, I just came across them while perusing.
  40. 1 point
    To fyreline: it would be fine if an assembly manual would be available and telling "don't do that way but put that thing here!" Halas, I have to "write" that manual myself and do the necessary corrections! To Randy: I was almost sure that the jack would create some reaction because it's not at all expected on a scale model! To keiser31 and Nelson: There is a pocket at the base of the rear bumper, near the attaching points to the frame, see the attached picture. On the front, the hook is grabbing at the bumper's bracket. On my Cadillacs from the fifties, the bumper jack brabs the bumper at its base, the hook is following the shape of the bumper. On the '57 Brougham, there is a hole at the bumper ends, the hook is coming into that hope. I discovered that when I have to lift the rear of the car after one levelling valve lost the air for the suspension during a drive. There were later slots into the bumpers; my '80 Olds had them. Yesterday, I removed some pieces from the carpet (velvet) and the underlying material. Boy! I did not spare with the glue when I did that! I will use less in the future…Now, the RH door is permanently “attached” to the body with the wiring. To keep the excess wiring as short as possible, I put the door on some wood and protective material. That way, I can work into the car without be limited by the door. It would be nice to have connector(s) but they are taking too much space! The wiring is held on the floor with instant glue; I hope that I will not have to do some modification! The wires are adding some height at the tunnel; I will have to do some padding on the tunnel to have a level surface with the wires. Today, I will redo the carpeting on the RH side. The next step is to solder the wires to a circuit board which will be located behind the LH kick panel. After that, the dash will come in.
  41. 1 point
    I was So distracted I was not a good photographer.
  42. 1 point
    Almost finished with the bathroom vanity - awaiting arrival of a pair of concealed hinges for the door, followed by the top and sink. Drawer fronts are walnut and frame is birch. The rest is scrap plywood and some old drawer boxes removed from my parents kitchen several years ago. My mechanics room is ready for tools and benches now that the floor has been coated and waxed. I really like the very hard coating as it is almost indestructible -called Clear Gaurd and I can get you more info if desired. The wax will make it even easier to sweep but no doubt dangerous when wet with oil or water. My 60 Electra has developed a knock and will likely be the first Buick to visit the mechanics room. More about that knock later.
  43. 1 point
    You could, in a bind, run them like they did like this during tough times (the depression) just by doubling up on then tires!!! This is on my 25-40 I used for parts on my 25-45. Leon
  44. 1 point
    i dont know about favorite, but most current atleast, and was great to see it outside for the first time since January. Had to shuffle a few cars around at the shop and I was wanting to spin my Century around to make working on the passenger side a bit more convenient. I am mostly done with sheet metal work on the driver side, with the exception of an area in behind the front fenders, I just need to clear a safe spot to store those giant things
  45. 1 point
    The day Jughead arrived from Illinois. .
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Norm You can still work around a few missing body pieces up to a point. A good place to get a reference point from the rear tub for initial sill layout is the inside step of the door jamb on a complete car. A trammel can reach into this crevice, locked into position, then removed for easy straight line measurement. see photo #1 I made a wall chart with all door opening dimensions, and often re-check them again after some wood part has been disassembled. Sheetmetal Lower door sills will provide the correct spacing for door openings, so if these are missing you will need to get these dimensions from another car and make some temporary spacer to maintain proper distances. (photo #2, red arrow) These can be replicated by a sheetmetal shop. As you progress, there is a constant need to disassemble something, trim a little off here or there, then reassemble, and having a solid spacer in place helps everything go back together in its proper place. Also mark centerlines on the cross sills or other temporary cross pieces to help get things lined up correctly. Another clue to help get parts located are the 4 steel brackets with body to frame bolts. The forward pair are attached to the cowl firewall, rear pair are just behind the rear door. Transfer the frame to body bolt spacing to your work surface and use that to assist in spacing cowl & tub to each other. The cowl firewall to frame brackets are missing on my car. I transferred the rear body bolt spacing from the frame to the cross sill, bolted the 2 rear brackets to the sill (photo #3, bolts circled in red) which is the only reference point to frame in forward/aft direction that was available. I set the partial sill assembly on the frame to align and transfer the remainder of body to frame bolt holes. Then I aligned the rear tub door opening about 1/2" forward of the steel bracket. (photo #4, yellow arrows). There are about 5 tabs which must be wrapped over the curved wood piece, and 1/2" seems just about right. The sheetmetal lower door sills and center pillar provided the spacing from rear door opening to the cowl. After the rear sill extensions were attached, I put the full sill assembly back on the frame to get rear sills aligned and transfer the rear body to frame bolt holes. photo #5 Kevin
  48. 1 point
    Norm, That is a separate issue. I wanted to let you know that some of the entire pieces once fabricated are glued and screwed together. The 2 long sill boards are actually made from 3 pieces each. They are slid together and glued. (Use waterproof Epoxy these days). This is the front of the original sill on my car. These sills are about 5 or 6 feet long. There is a double tongue and groove that holds the pieces together. It is not like flooring tongue and groove with a carve out on one side and a raise on the other. These grooves are actually V shaped to lock the parts together. Now the glue really does all the work. Hugh
  49. 0 points
    Here's an easier way: Let the AACA simply affix their names on some facet of the building in their honor. It's done all the time at colleges, in honor of people like them who served in a distinguished manner. That doesn't require spending money; it would be an act of the Board. There may be some other past presidents, too, who could be honored in this manner.
  50. 0 points
    The parts book lists a different part numbers for 1932 and '33. Not sure why but must have been a difference though they look the same? Of course there was also a standard and deluxe shells.