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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/17/2018 in Posts

  1. 14 points
    Please allow an old man to brag a bit. After 37 years of restoring professionally the business was turned over to my 35 year old Son Devon two years ago. I still come in every day and do a bit of upholstery and woodwork but for the most part I just get in the way. At last week's Hershey we showed a 1960 Eldorado Biarritz which was the first full restoration run completely by my Son from start to finish. Happily it was well received and garnered a First Junior Award. I can now rest easy knowing the business is in good hands
  2. 5 points
  3. 3 points
    well it is an actual question / vent session when I wrote this. yes the whiskey had me thinking, drink a bit, stare at my vehicle (car sits behind me in my man cave/garage, so from time to time I spin around and stare at it). over the years I have built countless vehicles, modified frames, can weld mig,tig,arc and am pretty good at fabricating. so when I stare at vehicles I see what could have been or could be. the speed on the highway is not as much an issue to me as the rev of the engine as I am driving 55-60mph (via phone GPS). I would like to go a bit faster on the freeway, I live in San Diego, everywhere from my location is mostly North/ NE, and when I want to go to a show far away, the speed would help to get to my destination without leaving an extra 40 min earlier because I am slower. that being said, I have decided to take out the transmission/drive line/ and rear end and REBUILD THEM then put them back in the car and see how it feels before I decide to spend $$$ on modern items. yes they would be fun, but I wonder how the car will feel with everything rebuilt and restored as they were meant to be.
  4. 3 points
    Alrighty, here's my google link to over 500 photos mostly taken by my husband Joel! Enjoy! https://photos.app.goo.gl/r65KGdwCUSUnD1mk6
  5. 3 points
    Tail lamp Tuesday. Found this pleasing photo of our 1913 Buick model 31, on tour, before the Old Car Festival in Michigan. Maybe Autumn Buicks because it was September. Regards, Gary
  6. 2 points
    Here is a good short video of an auto pioneer. First turn signals. https://www.chonday.com/32935/cacjartlef6/
  7. 2 points
    Here are a few photos I took as well. Charlie
  8. 2 points
    Actually, we are busier than we've ever been. Happily his wife is a tenured school teacher and a butcher's daughter so hopefully they will never go hungry.
  9. 2 points
    This year was simply amazing for me. I needed to make up for last year when I was mending my broken leg and didn't get to see much of it, so was determined to cover as much as possible. My best finds were actually on Thursday during the rain. Vendors with covered spaces were eager to sell and I was braving the elements in search of great automobilia. One of my best acquisitions this year was a superb early French bronze figurine of a lady in an early automobile. I'm trying to research some history on it so any help would be appreciated. One like it was sold at an auction in Germany in 2008 and it was listed as "Hulcan Trophy 1904/05 signed Hippolyte Francois Moreau" Moreau was a French sculptor and supposedly the original trophy is in the National Motor Museum, Beaulieu. Not sure how many of these bronze editions exist. Found a bunch of great spark plugs for my collection, more pins and buttons, and another great early inkwell/pen-tray. Already making off days on the calendar until next year. Terry
  10. 2 points
    We'll see. I'm meeting with a local hot rodder soon to use their acid bath for my modified intake manifold. I also finalized my switch for 3D printing... I went through a painstaking process of modeling every component in the system to a degree of accuracy that makes sense to me. In the shop here on campus, it's about a $10 job since its relatively small and hollow. It shouldn't see any crazy stresses unless the switch bottoms out, which it shouldn't. I also need to refine the mounting arm strength and switch lever length. I'll most likely increase the radius of the fillet and add an additional rib to the mounting arm after an FEA study. The holes in the arm are not final, either. I don't have a modern carburetor on hand, but it should be arriving soon, or so I'm told. The switch lever has a hole on the other side that needs to be tapped for a machine screw and washer to hold it against that side of the housing, while the lever side will have a light spring between the main body and the lever. The dimensions for the switch are pretty close. I purposely made it a little short so I can shim the end if needed. Also, all clearances are within 5 thousandths, just like the original switch. The printers are campus are stupid accurate, and 5 thousandths isn't impossible. I'm excited to see how it turns out! Also, in case you were wondering, this will mount towards the front of the carb. This keeps it from cluttering the coil and makes for easy access. I'm thinking of using a clevis for both the carb and the switch lever. Oh! A family member dredged through the family albums and is uploading them to the internet on a personal cloud. I'm not really a huge fan of that type of thing, but I did find one picture I believe is from before 1958. It's in the bottom right, with my grandparents and their Great Dane. Edit: I'm sure it's going to come up at some point, but yes I am aware of the switch orientation pushing the bull upwards.
  11. 2 points
    Got the copper washers today and they look like they work. No leaks and we kept the factory fitting. I cleaned up the fitting a little with some fine sandpaper just so it doesnt look all chewed up. Note that I didnt chew it up. I removed it with my bare hands. It looks a little better now and no more leaks. Very happy!!! The equal leg 90s wont work on my application. I looked forever to find the right one. The one's on Ebay are pretty close but none are for 5/16" line. Glad I didnt have to do something else. All fixed and back running again. Thank you for the help!
  12. 2 points
    I'm a little late getting this (probably last) entry posted, but the reason for that will be explained in a few moments. Took my time getting packed up at the Comfort Suites-soon-to-be-a-Mariott in Allentown (right across the street from the Dorney Park & Wildwater Kingdom, which I had never even heard of and I love rollercoasters; maybe next year...). Arrived at the Boyertown Museum of Historic Vehicles a bit after 10:30 a.m. and had a delightful visit. I had not realized just how steeped in local history is the Boyertown museum, but soon learned its deep and fascinating story. Not too many museums are situated in a former bodybuilding plant where a number of the vehicles in the collection were originally constructed. As the museum features vehicles built in Pennsylvania, the relatively small collection is a bit eclectic but very impressive. I learned that the Daniels car (built in Reading, Pennsylvania) was only built to order; the museum has three of these rarities in the collection. There were two of the ultra-rare and Full Classic Biddle autos on display. And no less than seven Duryeas, including some crazy models Charles very unsuccessfully tried actually to sell. Seems brother Frank, with whom there was a falling-out early on, was a lot more in tune with what sort of vehicles could actually be marketed. There was a full-size, mass-produced vintage 1938 O’Mahony diner inside, completely restored and seemingly ready to serve patrons (except all the food was wax and plastic props). Also, a very early Sunoco gas station, also completely restored, and surrounded by the kinds of auto service items appropriate to its early '20s era. Both of these displays were really lovely and not the sort of things normally found inside an automotive museum. One of the other interesting displays was a large set of cabinets containing hundreds of small oil cans and bottles of both well-known and very obscure brands, covering likely nearly a hundred years or more timespan. This was very colorful and featured some very early non-can small oilers I'd never seen before. I was amused to see a little 1-oz. Three-in-One oiler can in the collection identical to the one that sits on the windowsill above my kitchen sink, where it is readily available for occasional use. Not sure whether that says more about me or the collection... The Boyertown building was originally utilized for Jeremiah Sweinhart’s carriage factory from 1872-1914 and a small upstairs annex is devoted to locally-built carriages and other related conveyances. One of the best parts is that someone preserved a good bit of the old belt-driven machinery from the original carriage factory and the museum has reconstructed a small section of the shop with about a dozen closely-packed machines arranged to be driven from the proper shafting overhead. I didn't ask if this is actually operational but based on the rolls of extra belting nearby, I'll bet it is. The coal-fired forge on the other side of the room does work (as evidenced by the big basket of fresh burnable wood scraps alongside) and I was told it is demonstrated often, with blacksmithing work being performed basically as theater for small groups. There's a huge table nearby of the special tools used for this sort of work along with many examples of small items that have been produced during their smithing demos. One of the best parts of my visit was the fact that there were a lot of people visiting and viewing. While one might assume this was a post-Hershey rush, in fact, most of the folks I saw and interacted with were pretty obviously not regular old car hobbyists. Always great to see a car museum actually receiving non-trivial levels of visitation and I was told three busloads of field trip students were scheduled to arrive the next day. While I was in the house, some of the museum staff was rearranging tables in the entry area to bring in a couple of small WWI and WWII military vehicles that were being loaned for temporary display, which they did before I departed. Darlene, the busy and nice lady collecting admission, replied positively when I asked if they had a break room with a microwave I could use to heat up my terrific carne asada leftovers from a couple of nights ago. While chowing down and flipping through the March 2018 issue of the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America magazine that was on the table with a few other car club mags, I was quite surprised to find a local friend is the national president of that well-known organization. I took my leave from the museum a bit before 2 p.m. and punched up the home address as the destination in my GPS; I think it said 775 miles, so I knew it was going to be a long drive as I wasn't planning to do another hotel night before home. Thank goodness for those Starbucks 'double-shots,' which actually taste good as compared to the usual energy drinks. On sale at two for $5, they were a lot cheaper than a hotel room. Stopped once for a short bit of shut-eye in a rest area, and used a gas station microwave in Woodstock, Virginia, to reheat the other two slices of my delicious leftover Allentown pizza for a late dinner. Hershey seemingly didn't want to let me go so easily, as about a dozen miles above Harrisburg on I-81, right about where the exit for Hershey is located, traffic came to a standstill. Seems a semi and a dually pulling a very large fifth-wheel camper had tangled and the resulting wreckage blocked all lanes except for the shoulder. The back-up cost me almost two hours... I guess I should just consider it a reminder for what I will have to endure almost daily back home. For example, today I-85 South near my house had all lanes blocked by an overturned truck for almost four hours during morning rush hour. Pulled into my driveway at 4:47 a.m. to end what has been a very enjoyable trip to Hershey and environs for the first time in 38 years. Hope no one is too upset I elected to sample the sheets before tickling the keyboard to compose this post. And I hope there's at least a couple of readers of my scribbles who found them worth the time expended.
  13. 2 points
    1951 Oldsmobile 98. Compare the side spear and the tip of the large stainless piece on the rear door.
  14. 2 points
    I am able to remove mine myself, usually. I have several furniture pads left from my time in the trenches. Raise the hood and place a pad over the fender , stretching into the engine compartment. Another over the radiator with excess on the ground. Lower hood and carefully raise the other side , placing a pad here. Lower hood. Carefully slide hood forward , lowering the nose until it is on the ground, atop the pad. Pick it up and carry it away. Of course, the buddy way is easier. Ben
  15. 2 points
    Today I installed the sill plates and jute padding for under the seat and the back seat floor. I used a spray adhesive to smooth out the padding and make it conform to the hump in the middle.Tomorrow I will put the mat down after cutting the material around the seat brackets. I am hoping to start work in the rear quarter windows to install the flexible pile lining with the stainless steel bead by the end of the week.
  16. 2 points
  17. 1 point
    This is my 1952 Cadillac Fleetwood Series 75. I traveled 575 miles to get it. It was taken off the road somewhere around 1975 due to an “excessive oil leak.” The engine was removed, the heads were rebuilt. That’s as far as the engine was rebuilt. It sat outside of the car uncovered. I found a couple rebuilt stickers in the car. The brakes were rebuilt, they still have the Made in USA stamping on the pads. The sticker is dated 1976. The regulator was rebuilt. As for that there was nothing else rebuilt from what I saw. The transmission and engine came outside of the car. I’m not sure it’s the same engine as the number starts 5360, which should indicate a 1953 Series 60 engine, but my 1952 parts car has the same beginning numbers. I have rebuilt the engine by myself looking at the shop manual and hoping for the best, and believe it or not it runs very well. I have put about 100 miles on the engine so far. Unfortunately the transmission won’t shift past 2nd so it is at the shop as we speak. I generally don’t like to let mechanics touch my classic cars but this is out of my league. The seats have a professional seatcover on top of them which is hiding perfect broadcloth seats. I am at the very beginning stages of working on the car so the brakes have to be pumped every time you get in it and the lights need to be replaced. The windows don’t work due to the broken hydraulic lines and the pump doesn’t work yet. When you move the switches you do hear clicks at the doors so that’s a plus. I’m hoping to get the car back in about a week so I can actually take it out on it’s first real test drive. I bought it in December 2016.
  18. 1 point
    I was wondering how many 16V's are still operational. Let's use the "Like" button on this page to do a poll. If you have a 16V, and it is still operational, please click the "Like" button below. It should be interesting to see the result! Thanks in advance!
  19. 1 point
    He said it was a Crank Cover.........so my thinking is it covered the Hand Crank they had back in the early days to start the engine. You could cover the hole on the front of the car if it also had a battery and starter, uncover if the battery was dead or there was no starter?
  20. 1 point
    Sorry to hear, we always hate to lose anyone, and anyone with talent is missed that much more. I guess you could read that wrong, but it's what I feel....
  21. 1 point
    Then you can tell him how fast he's going and what the oil pressure is.
  22. 1 point
    Spy photos from the Tesla- Fisher- Spacex development team.
  23. 1 point
    You might find you have to pull at least some of the floor so you can tilt the top of the column down a bit if the front of the car is not high enough. Rebuild kit is unlikely. The rebuildable parts are the top and bottom bearings, but they don't wear much if lubricated; the bottom seal; the bushes on the sector shaft. You will be very luck to find a good worm and sector. They were made with a taper so that as they wore, they could be adjusted to remove it. But eventually they are worn too much in the middle to adjust out without binding at the ends (towards full lock). No doubt you have discovered this in trying to adjust it. I also had an O-ring put in the outer end of the sector shaft bush to keep the oil in. Many here will direct you to Lares Corp. I took mine to a local machine shop. The only work really is to rebush the sector shaft and perhaps fit a modern seal in the bottom. I did the rest. The top and bottom bearing cones were NLA although I found some cups. Anything you do to the worm and sector is more difficult; maybe a clever shop can regrind it. There aren't many coatings that will stand up to the shear forces in steering - they generally just peel off the worm. Remember to refill with semi fluid grease, NLGI 00, NOT chassis grease. If POs have put chassis grease in there, you will find it up inside the column, between the outer case and the steering shaft.
  24. 1 point
    This Model T on you tube does pretty well in the snow....well, it does have 4-wheel drive. For some reason this video seems to start in the middle. You can scroll back to the beginning. Don
  25. 1 point
    I think skinny tires might be quite good in snow. High ground pressure pushes through the snow. I have seen a model A go through a high country road closed by deep snow. Low power helps too; the wheels have less tendency to spin.
  26. 1 point
    Some of the folks in the Cascade Pacific region of the Plymouth Owners Club have fitted overdrive transmissions to their '33 Plymouths. I've heard from them that a '37 DeSoto overdrive is pretty much a bolt in, just swap the top cover from the '33 transmission and put it on the '37 overdrive. And apparently that overdrive uses a cable for actuation and the freewheeling control for the '33 transmission can be used for that. I think a shorter driveshaft might be needed too. Mind you, I've not done this. So all the above is hearsay, but it might be worth looking into if you are determined to have an overdrive transmission with minimal modifications to the original.
  27. 1 point
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  29. 1 point
    I am NOT an expert on these early makes. But I find them fascinating. In an earlier response, I suggested Autocar. I had noticed a similar-looking vehicle on page 85 of the Standard Catalog. Fenders very similar, front and rear. Radiator similar, with full-eliptic springs. Hub caps similar size, radiator similar shape. The Autocar shown in that photo seems to have an enamel style radiator emblem at top, which is different, and headlights are different. But I ASSUME that there were often small differences like this throughout a model year for many manufacturers. Again, I am not trying to argue that this is the car...I'm just offering to try and help.
  30. 1 point
    Yup, and it's rockin' and rolling in my 38 Century! Working excellently! Thanks Phillipe! Cheers, Dave
  31. 1 point
    This is a dumb question, but what is a 1930 8-55? Is that the model number? Buick didn't build a straight eight until the 1931 model year. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
  32. 1 point
    nice pic even though, wanna go fishin with those girls
  33. 1 point
    Still amazed at how much information Eric was kind enough to load on the registry for others to view. Thank you Eric ? Regards, Dave
  34. 1 point
    Thanks for the responses. I have ordered it all from Centerville.
  35. 1 point
    I can't even begin to tell you how amazing that is, a fully functional jack for an amazing project.
  36. 1 point
    While soft soldering one of both bearings for the long screw, the screw got soldered too! Fortunately, I could unsolder the bearing and screw. With some rework (using a steel part to avoid the same accident), I could finish the main part. Then it was the turn of the second leg and the handle. I got then in trouble with the hook. I had good pictures from a Mark II forum member and I could not figure how that should work because I was on the wrong brand: on my Cadillacs, the hook is following the shape or the bumper, but not here. Anyway both bumpers don’t have the same profile; therefore a little change from the common practice was developed for the Mark II: the hook is contacting the rear bumper at the bottom; the upper part of the hook is pushing against the upper bar. It’s a little bit different at the front: the hook is grabbing a bumper support and, like at the rear, the upper part is pushing the upper bar. I did a quick try with the model; it works well! Now, the jack should be painted. With a little use just for the fun, there will be some scratches due to the nature of that tool. That’s life!
  37. 1 point
    Here is a film of the 1962 HCCA Harrah/Reno Tour. I wonder if your car attended in 1962 as well? Boy, there are a lot of great cars in this film. It is really worth a watch if you appreciate "real" old cars. I would contact the HCCA office. They might be able to help you. I know the Harrah/Reno tours were covered in great depth in the HCCA Gazettes. Maybe your car is pictured in a back issue of the HCCA Gazette.
  38. 1 point
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  40. 1 point
    For what it is worth, I've had my '33 Plymouth up to 70 MPH as indicated by both the speedometer and a GPS, it was on a flat section of freeway posted at 70 so no laws broken. A bit scary thinking about the skinny little bias ply tires, tiny drum brakes, etc., but the most noticeable thing was that my talkative passenger became silent. With the original 4.375:1 rear end, I figure the maximum sustained cruise speed is a tad over 60 MPH. If I had a coupe or standard model with the 4.11:1 rear end that would be a little above 65 MPH which happens to be the speed limit for much of the California freeway system. A couple years back I returned to the SF Bay Area from Tucson, a distance of about 900 miles cruising at 62 MPH the whole way. I assume that a Dodge, especially one equipped with a 1953 engine, would be capable of equaling my Plymouth's cruise speed. Back roads at 45 MPH are a lot more fun but longer distances on freeways should not be a problem with that car with stock running gear in good condition. Just allow lots of space as your small drum brakes are not as good a the four wheel power assisted discs of the car(s) ahead of you.
  41. 1 point
    Seeing my 6 year old Grandson Wheel & Deal was the highlight of Hershey 2018, he missed last year due to the arrival of his younger brother and talked about it all year long. He got to ride down on Tuesday and help set up the space, too bad I didn't have any quality stuff this year. We were loading the trailer on Sunday and that rocking horse fell out of the junk in the garage, he asked if it was going to Hershey. I told him it was non automotive and didn't fit in with the car stuff. This is the direct quote from a six year old "Put $20.00 on it and see what happens."...……..he got $10.00, the hobby will do just fine. Bob
  42. 1 point
    Here are a couple favorites! Cool all day, but few empty slots, if they registered it seems, they showed up!
  43. 1 point
    1) Engine oil type and weight (synthetic or not). Today's oils are better than anything in 1922. Synthetics will work fine. There is much discussion on oils designed to suspend solids for use in cars with no oil filters. I use ordinary 20w40 for my cars. 2) radiator (use of anti freeze or not, if so mix 50/50??). Yes, 50% green antifreeze works fine. 3) Will antifreeze hurt the Moto-Meters? (shouldn't seeing how it is sealed, but just asking). No. 4) Rear differential Gear Lube type and weight. I use SAE 250 for tranny & rear end. 5) Bearing grease for wheel bearings, axial, etc. General purpose for chassis & high temp for wheel bearings. 6) Transmission gearbox fluid. SAE 250.
  44. 1 point
    The Cadillac is finally home! No overheating, no stalling. Now that it shifts I can see that I need to adjust the carburetor a little more. The shifting needs some fine tuning too. It shifts first to second alright but holds second while it’s revving a little too long before clunking into third. Then you have to let up on the gas for it to shift into fourth. That’s just a linkage adjustment so I’m not overly worried. But it made it the 17 miles home with no problems at all. Next thing on the agenda is to figure out why I keep losing brake pressure. It’s not leaking anywhere and we bled them for at least half an hour. Then it’s on to the window pump, lines, and switches. Then the heating assemblies.
  45. 1 point
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  49. 1 point
    Sir? can you shut off the car while I'm filling you up, you're gaining on me.
  50. 1 point
    In the late eighties and into the nineties, the Sears Catalogue sold reproduction Allstate bias ply tires in original sizes for vintage cars. They also sold reproduction Allstate batteries. When Sears went out of the catalogue business, these products went away.