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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/03/2018 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    Part Chevrolet truck, part 1957 DeSoto....
  2. 4 points
    Most people on this forum may know this already, but in case they don't, I thought it might be helpful information to some to know that technology in the last decade has given us a very easy way to get inexpensive and high quality music sources in our antique cars. I like prewar cars and I also enjoy having period music playing in the car. In the past, this wasn't such an easy thing to pull off. A long time ago , I used to bring a "boombox" into the car and play cassettes or CDs to get good sound. But these days you can buy a cheap wireless handheld bluetooth speaker that works with any smart phone. ("Bluetooth," for those that don't know, is just a technology that lets you connect wirelessly between two devices near each other, such as a cell phone and a speaker.) You put the speaker anywhere in the car, press a button that pairs it to the phone, and you can play music on your smart phone using a music app that is broadcast over your bluetooth speaker. If you switch cars, you just move the speaker and get the same great sound in any car. There are lots and lots of bluetooth speakers available. I opted to buy the JBL Flip 3, which costs about $70. It's small -- it fits in your hand -- but it sounds astonishingly good. It looks like this: (image from the web) The speaker runs off a rechargeable battery that plays for about 8 or 9 hours between charges and charges easily like a cell phone. I create playlists of period music on a music app for my iphone, and when I take a car out I put the speaker in the car and play the playlist for that car from my phone. (30s music for 30s car, etc.) It fills the car with high quality music sound of my choosing, all for only $70. To keep the speaker in a stable place, I ended up putting a little velcro tab on the speaker and on the carpet of each of my cars so the speaker can rest on the floor of the car and not move if I go over a bump or come to a rapid stop. It's easy to pull the velcro off to recharge the speaker, but otherwise the speaker stays put. I don't know if this info is helpful to readers, but I thought it might be. Happy to share more details (such as how to link the speaker to a phone, etc) for those who may be intimidated by the technology. And my apologies if this is obvious and everyone knows it: I only figured this out in the last year or so, I confess, and it was an epiphany that really improved my driving experiences.
  3. 4 points
    Work continues on the rear door trim panels.... Test fitting the upper trim assembly. All the tan and beige vinyl components are mounted to a .030" thick hardboard foundation, which is then mounted to the main substrate panel. Mocked up in the car: Those wrinkles around the upper, front and rear edges are there because the perimeter vinyl hasn't been edgefolded to the main substrate yet. Satisfied with the progress on the right rear door, I started on the left rear. Then, mocked up quarter trim panels to verify the shape and the color split lines. This is what came in the car, so I had to do a lot of interpolation: I didn't like the loose appearance of the cover, so I kept fine-tuning the substrate and cover to improve the fit. More progress on the rear door trim. I pre-assembled the 2 bottom sections in preparation for sewing them to the main panel. I've been looking for an industrial sewing machine to be able to do more of my own trim work. 57BuickJim and I went in on this Singer 111W155 "walking foot" machine. It will sew stuff that my little home machine could only dream of! Pre-installed the lower trim to the door panel with staples that will be removed after sewing. Ready for edgefolding and moldings! With the sewing done, I installed the metal edging to the substrates. I had to stop all the sew lines short of the edges to allow for installation of the edging. I tied off the stitch lines to keep them from unraveling and handstitched the outermost inch of the trim so the edgefolded panels would have the correct appearance. I also had to replace several of the attaching "nails" where the originals were broken or missing. Turns out they are standard 1" ring shank nails! The steel edging gives a smooth appearance to the perimeter of the panel and also incorporates barbs to retain the vinyl as it is edgefolded around the back of the panel.
  4. 3 points
  5. 3 points
    She looks mighty proud. Looks like my '65 C20 in the background. Cal.
  6. 2 points
    Good afternoon all! I spent a few days investigating and studying the Dynaflow. In particular, issues with slipping, leaks, whining and rumbling noises. Basically making notes of what a happy healthy Dynflow performs and how a sickly Dynaflow does not perform. By and large the threads on the forums I read did not come to a conclusion as to what the issue was and the resolution. I would like to start this thread in hopes those that that that have experienced Dynaflow issues and resolutions would share. Also, in hopes the thread is sticked becoming a page full of answers to trials and tribulations with the Dynaflow. It can be a one source thread for the mysterious and foreboding(as some called it in my investigating) transmission affectionately known as the Dynaflow. For me, I performed a transmission service per the manual instructions. Drain the pan. Pull the pan. Clean the screen. New gasket. Re-install. Drained the TC. One trick I noted on the TC, loosen one drain plug just enough to allow air into the TC. Prevents fluid from coming out but allows air in. Spin the TC ( used a pry bar and turned the TC carefully) to the second drain plug. Completely removed this plug allowing the fluid to drain as air was sucked into to the plug only loosened. The converter holds a lot of transmission fluid. It appears to have a drinking problem. I used Dexon 3 with Mercon. Knock on wood that my Dynaflow is working well and hopefully for a long time. However, if need be I can come to this thread, along with others, when trouble rears it's ugly head! Thanks!
  7. 2 points
    A couple of years back I was a regular here while fixing up my '66 Thunderbird for an indie film I produced (prior to that, I was here posting photos of a 1919 Chevy 490 I had purchased). Been into old cars my entire life so I thought it would be easy to find 60's cars to populate the film, "Summer of '67". I started going to local car shows and handing out a flyer to get owners interested in having their car in the film. Problem is, the responses I was getting were from guys with modified cars. For an accurate representation of the 60's, I needed bone stock cars or ones with period mods. Gradually I weeded out the hotrods and came up with a list of cars : '57 Chevy Ambulance (owned by a local funeral home) '65 Chevy C-10 truck '62 Corvair convertible '62 Nova '65 GTO '65 Rambler wagon '59 Chevy convertible '61 Impala bubbletop '68 Camaro '64 Chevy C-10 '66 Mustang convertible '66 Thunderbird (mine) Volkswagen bus (mine) '67 Cadillac hearse There are others but you get the idea. With the exception of the hearse, the use of all the cars was donated by the owners, most of who belonged to local car clubs. All had stock wheels and tires, except the Rambler wagon (we kept it well in the background). So for an indie film, I felt we ended up with an accurate representation of the 60's. It wasn't['t easy, as it seems 8 out of 10 cars these days are modified. The movie itself is a Vietnam war story, told about the wives and girlfriends of the soldiers left behind when the men ship out. It's based on my father in law's story (he was on the USS Forrestal when it burned in 1967). He was below decks while John McCain was on deck starting his plane at the time. The film has received over 10 festival awards and is getting great reviews on Amazon Prime, where it can be watched for free if you have an account. Here's the direct link and hope you enjoy it: https://www.amazon.com/Summer-67-Rachel-Schrey/dp/B07GWS1CV3 If you take the time to watch, be sure to leave a review- Amazon movies live or die by the number of reviews.
  8. 2 points
    Another thought for those wanting to keep their smart phones, bluetooth speakers, etc. charged on long drives: One easy way to do this is with an external battery source that has a 120v outlet. Many battery boosters that we carry to jumpstart our cars have them -- just insert the plug like you would in your car, and in addition to jumping your car you can charge your various battery-powered devices. This is good in case the power goes out at home, too. Alternatively, you can bring along an external portable battery source like a laptop (or a dedicated battery source just for electronic devices ,which are cheap and fit in your glove box). At the end of a few days of driving, you may need to charge up your battery source, but that's easily done at a wall outlet at the hotel that night. Sorry if this is all obvious; just thought some might not have thought of it.
  9. 2 points
    Update, cooking right along, torque tube , rear diff and suspension, all brakes and brake lines with drums and new bearings. installed trans lower linkage and e- brake cable.
  10. 2 points
    I hope to have my ashes scattered in the Red Field, seriously.
  11. 2 points
    So its used to get the grubs and worms out of you oil.
  12. 2 points
    Hello I have a 49 Super with Dynaflow, Mine was leaking at the torque converter,had been apart sometime in the past,replaced all of the bolts with nylon inserted lock type.Found a number of the original bolts were cracked along the slots on them , allowing them to back off.Dynaflow apparently leaked when fairly new,In the program service bulletins condensed book over half of it refer to The Dynaflow .Buick said that unless it was leaking more than a pint of fluid in a 1000 miles ,that was considered normal. It seems to work ok after that but still get a slight amount of leakage noticedable on garage floor.
  13. 2 points
    That's a Sweptside, ain't it? Ha Ha
  14. 2 points
    He's a railroad man and gets up very early in the morning
  15. 2 points
    I never intended to be a parts supplier............it happened mainly by accident, and the fact that no one else seemed to be interested. I am a retired manufacturing engineer/problem solver for a fairly large company. Even before retiring, I became involved with the Reatta and tried to help when people had a problem. One example...a Reatta owner called one day saying he was having his seat redone and the lumbar bladder was shot, where could he get one? I'm thinking that should be no problem and started looking around. I was going to SEMA every other year and had a book listing all the vendors...so I started calling the people that sold seats....asking if they would sell lumbar bladders....the problem was most of them were using mechanical lumbar support but they would give me a lead....that got me to a company in LA that was in the aircraft seat business. Turns out they made the lumbar bladders for the Reatta (and some other GM cars) the conversation lead to me asking if they had any and they did not then I ask them if they still had the tooling and if they owned it, and they did. So then I ask if they would make some and they said they would but there would be a minimum buy. We worked out a deal and then I was in the parts business. That was around 2005, I purchased 50 new bladders at a very reasonable price. I sold them at a very reasonable price but it took about 10 years to sell 50. When I went to reorder, the company was out of business, and I had no interest in finding another source. Most of the thing I sell started in a similar way. I did convertible visor brackets until Kingsley Baker told me he was thinking about doing them....my response, go for it, I hate making them. I did several fixes for headlight arms/bellcranks, published them (see www.reatta.net) then found a production part for a Pontiac that could be reworked into a unit for the Reatta. I contacted the supplier, he had the tooling, and I had him run some new steel parts for me (the set-up charge for that was $2,400 if I purchased 1 or 10,000) again I was not interested in selling parts but here was a chance to make a good part at a reasonable cost ....when the original bellcranks were last available from GM the bellcrank kit cost $180 for one side. I sell my kit for $40. One last story........the 1988-1989 Reatta floor mats were reversible. I somehow go a lead on a company that made floor mats for GM, think they were in NY state... got in touch with them and they were not interested in reproducing the Reatta mats...not enough volumn for them but they did say they had a lot of Cadillac floor mats that they would sell me cheap. Turn out the Cadillac mats were like the early Reatta, were reversible and had the non-skid plastic grid on the back. I told them I would be interested in the plastic grid but did not need the mats, so we ended the conversation. A week later they called and said they were disposing of the Cadillac floor mats and wondered if I was interested in the plastic grids....and the answer was YES. I don't remember how may I purchased but I ask them if they had a standard shipping box that would hold the grids, they did, I said fill it with grids and I will take them. Again I was in the parts business. PS I only have 1 or 2 of the grids remaining. Bottom line, I don't really care if I sell parts.........I like to solve problems.
  16. 2 points
    Managed a couple of hours before dinner today and pulled the Special out to see what I could do with the paint on the passenger side. Up close you can see what needs attention on the door. This is not really a proper fix but more of a preserving issue. The fact it doesn't show as bad does help though. Before anyone says anything, I know full well it's going to take more than a little paint to deal with the rocker panel!! Still, encouraged with the results I moved on to the lower front fender and the obvious spots. Once it all dries completely will go at the paint with the wax / cleaner and see how things look. Think I might have gained a few feet letting someone look at her before the obvious becomes too clear...
  17. 2 points
    Heres what the coolant passages looked like when I took the intake off. Now I know why I never had any heat and why she liked to run hot at idle even with that big aluminum radiator. This is after I started to clean them out.
  18. 2 points
    I cannot answer your two questions but isn't the placement of the bearing on the spindle dictated by the machined race in the rotor hub?
  19. 2 points
    The Buick is really coming together nicely! I think I recall you had holes for fender mount lights to use as front turn signals. Mine had motorcycle style front turn signals some previous owner installed. I removed them and added hidden arrow style LED lights behind the grille, so I have front signals, but no one sees them unless they're in use. A happy period incorrect solution for me!
  20. 1 point
    This auction to be held at Geneseo, New York, October 20th will offer an extremely choice 1933 Auburn 12-161A cabriolet and a 1923 Lincoln L seven passenger phaeton, plus a 1922 Dodge touring, a 1930 Franklin, garage equipment and other items: https://www.cottoneauctions.com/auction/140/on-site-estate-automobiles-antiques The '33 Auburn was a favorite when it appeared at local shows, a car that was simply maintained and enjoyed for decades. I'm sure the new owner will as well.
  21. 1 point
    That was my plans till they paved everything, I figured now I would just be wash down the sewer if I was spread so I changed my plans. My first trip to Hershey as an adult, was in 1971. Because we came with someone that wasn't in any hurry we got to the flea market about noon on Saturday. Vendors were pulling out already. In 72 we had a space for the first time and every year since. Saturday has never been a good sale day for us. We use to stay till Sunday morning until HerCo let us know on Saturday evening they want us out by 6am and then turned the PortaPotty people lose on the field at around 3am. The stench was bad enough we got up and left shortly after.
  22. 1 point
    Got the three rear most floorboards cut out and routed the edges. The rear floorboard has the mounting holes drilled and the cutout for the differential plate. The attaching edges are routed for an overlapping fit. I still haven't sanded the edges, cut out the battery access, or cleaned things up. The routing was done on my Bosch router table. I was worried about tear-out on the plywood, but I got very clean cuts on all the boards. Each floorboard has a mounting pad made of wood, and attached to each short end, that rests on the top of the frame rail. The wood is 1-1/8" thick, three inches and a quarter inches wide, and the length of the floorboard. Getting lumber of that dimension proved impossible. Rather than having a sawmill plane it for me, I bought some oak from a big box store and glued two pieces together. This gives me a chunk of wood 1-1/4" thick and 3-1/2 wide. I'll use my router to knock off an eight of an inch of the thickness and a quarter inch off the width, and then I can cut the resulting stock to the correct lengths. I should have everything wrapped up by tomorrow evening.
  23. 1 point
    That would be interesting if any information could be tracked down. I have looked at as much information on the factory cars as I could find and the fwd turbo iterations appear fairly similar to what I have done but with the older 3.8fwd engine. The hi-boost rwd looks to be an old style GN engine and drivetrain. There have been different people that have done turbocharging to various fwd GM cars but no kits I could ever find.
  24. 1 point
    I drink a glass full of dihydrogen monoxide every day and it hasn't harmed me yet. Was watching a "building off the grid" show the other evening and they wanted to install a naturally occuring dihydrogen monoxide collection system but it turns out such a system is illegal in Colorado.
  25. 1 point
    The AACA tent with lots of new merchandise and the membership table will move slightly to the East and be on the concrete pad in front of the Giant Center. It will occupy the space RM has used in the past. They turned it over to us this year. Convenient to Hershey food tent and restrooms!
  26. 1 point
    Does this look better? It is not a headlight bar. It looks more like a brace between the left and right mudguards (I think you in North America call them fenders).
  27. 1 point
    I might be an American Steam Car built in West Newton, Massachusetts from 1924 to 1948. There is a short Wiki article on them you can find if you google "American Steam Car". The wiki article says they mostly used Hudson bodies and chassis which is probably true but since they were always bought out it wouldn't surprise me if one was built on a Packard chassis. Many years ago one of my friends said he'd seen an "old car" behind the rental house his cousins were living in and did I want to take a look at it? Of course, I did... We drove down to Saunderstown, RI, found the house and sure enough in the backyard was a roadster under a tarp. We lifted the tarp and then the hood and were quite surprised to see it was a steamer. I suppose it was a Hudson body, c.1925 to 26 but I didn't know enough to recognize it. I do remember it was marked "American Steam Car" somewhere. In looking again I see that the wiki information is taken directly from G.N. Georgano's encyclopedia so it is probably reliable if perfunctory.
  28. 1 point
    I don’t think you want a 68 Camaro in a film called “summer of 67”. ! Dave S
  29. 1 point
    That is my guess too. The simplest way to repower the Packard would be to transplant the whole Stanley rear axle/engine assembly. There were steam car enthusiasts long after Stanley, Doble, White and the rest went out of business. There were always guys reviving old steam cars and trying to build new ones, at least as late as the seventies. The sixties and seventies actually saw a revival of interest in steam as a means to fight pollution and get around the gas shortages. They never got anyplace but had more or less fun trying. Here's a 1969 Chevelle converted to steam power for General Motors.
  30. 1 point
    Its a '39 Six that's been converted.
  31. 1 point
    Wow. I can only access the .com page. S or no S, nothing else opens
  32. 1 point
    Do a CO test on the coolant to check for exhaust gases entering the coolant system. The kit is available over the counter. Use a bore scope to look in each hole after you pull the plugs, if you find a clean piston and head thats your problem. I have seen very, very small leaks from hoses that just drip onto a manifold and evaporate the coolant leaving no trace. Sometimes you just have to drive it till it gets worse. The CO detection kit is very helpful on head gaskets and cracked heads.......its not effective for other leaks. Ed
  33. 1 point
    I don't remember that but I also don't remember what I had for breakfast yesterday. My first thought upon seeing this was "Gene is selling nicer ones than this one for $100 less." Apparently this seller isn't aware of what else is out there.
  34. 1 point
    Yes. Fog lamp & turn signal with a 1044 bulb, plus a parking bulb.
  35. 1 point
    This is mine, smooth and clean, just the way it rolled off the line in 1936.
  36. 1 point
    This Cadillac is exceptionally good looking. The designers got just right. If it were mine, I would run sans front license plate and round medallion. The LEO's have never bothered me about a front plate on any collector car.
  37. 1 point
    In advertisements, it is completely meaningless about 99% of the time. It is a word like "classic" which has come to mean nothing at all.
  38. 1 point
    Hugh Do you know what mass ring weight the crank was balanced to? This is what you want to make the large end rod masses match. Cotter pins included. Typically, the ring weights (a heavy bolted two piece affair that matches the large end of the rod) are made (all 6 in this case) to match the lightest large end you have. Bolt all 6 on and put the crank on the balance machine. The light ends of the rod, the reciprocating mass, you want to be all common so they cancel. Include the bolts. I’ve seen the bolts trimmed to help match mass. It it would appear on the large end of the rod there are two small balance pads per side. The two flat spots just inboard of the bolt heads on the forging. Both sides of the rod should have these two small pads. The small end would have been balanced by machining its width on both sides. If if you can’t do any machining, put the heaviest large end rods on the center two journals to minimize the rotating couple they induce. The other good news is these are big heavy rods so look at your error as a percentage of the total mass of a rod. 15g / 1000 g is only 1.5% error on a very low revving engine. What about your reciprocating piston mass?
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    How about “Temptress”
  41. 1 point
    Engine installed and running. After replacement of A/C system components listed previously, system held vacuum for five days, so should be good to recharge. Now to start the tuning process.
  42. 1 point
    This photo was taken several years ago and the only change to the car is the addition of the spare tires cover. Whenever we get this car out and drive it people just seem to go nuts over it. My friend here in town who runs the one Dairy Queen loves for us to come by on a weekend afternoon and hang around for a while. He tells me it is the best customer magnet that he has ever seen. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah Kansas
  43. 1 point
    Love all those beautiful Buicks! Here is a picture of my '41 McLaughlin Buick. The backdrop is the coach house on the Parkwood estate of Sam McLauglin, who started building McLaughlins in 1908. Keith