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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/02/2018 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Well, after 21 years with the same company helping to recruit and hire healthcare professionals, I've officially RETIRED! Of course I've done it before when I retired after 23 years in the U.S. Navy, but this time I'm not wondering what my second career will be- it's already happened, and it certainly was enjoyable and so satisfying. To think the people we hired made such a difference in peoples lives is awesome. Proud also of the projects I initiated to hire our veterans. Those talented hospital corpsmen and medics can do so much more than what is normally allowed in the civilian world, and now we're successfully breaking down barriers for them and putting their experience and skills to work in the right place. Friday was officially my last day at work, although I'll go back later this week for my retirement luncheon and to pick up a few things still in the office. I woke up this morning without an alarm clock, didn't have to fight traffic, and spent the day leisurely sorting and packing for Hershey. Best part of this is I won't need to work by axx off so I can go, ain't worried about what's going on while I'm gone, and won't have to unscramble some crisis when I get back. Sweeeeeeettttttt! So-if I walk by at Hershey with a kinda frozen smile on my face just figure I'm having a really great time! Terry
  2. 5 points
    Do you have a Handicapped placard or tag? If so they cannot by law refuse to allow you to use it nor can they even ask the nature of your handicap. I have become something of a warrior for Handicapped Rights since I have become handicapped myself.
  3. 4 points
    so i finally got off my butt and decided to start working on the special again. shes sat for a month or two because of some personal problems that made me lose interest in the hobby and a rochester 2 jet that seems to hate me. ive decided to make some changes.
  4. 4 points
  5. 4 points
    Sorry to have to say this, but we here believe that offers are for Ebay, not here. It is a gorgeous car and I would go to Ebay and look under "completed listings" to maybe see what one may have sold for. You may not find a comparable car, so you can also look on auction sites.
  6. 3 points
    I have a 1938 Imperial Business Coupe in 2(?) condition up for sale. I am looking for34,000. Runs flawlessly, OD, straight 8, at most 788 of these imperial business coupes were made. New chrome, rubber, glass and paint. Brake system, ignition, fuel tank, carburetor, lines and pump replaced or rebuilt. All gauges work, has heater and original radio, they have yet to be restored. I have owned the car for 19 years.
  7. 3 points
    If you can find a salvage yard that has your seats but are in poor condition ask if you can slice the seat backs out and can buy the head rests. The seat back is vinyl and can be used for the console lid and the head rest front is leather and can be used for repairs on the bolsters on your seats. Match is perfect and way cheaper then buying new leather from the upholstery shop. A great story, thanks for sharing.
  8. 3 points
    This has been my experience with "kits" like this. Their close but you need to re engineer it yourself at home to make it work. Nothing is "bolt on" in this hobby. And once you get the parts to "bolt on" you will still have to engineer the master cylinder situation which they will tell you is a "bolt on" but is probly not. Getting the parts on there is only the first step of a long job. I think it is doubtful that the spindles have been changed. Changed to what? I bet there is no other spindles that will "bolt on" and still work with 46' Buick Super brake parts and steering and suspension. Wilwood wont help because they dont know how to solve this problem. The bearing they gave you worked that one time on that one car that they think is similar enough to your 46' that their "bolt on" kit might kind of sorta work. But if they used a prewar car for prototyping you might be out of luck unless you switch to whatever spindles they used to make they're kit. Did they make they're kit knowing that there are big series cars and small series cars and they might have different spindles? Or maybe the design changed after the war? I hope its easy but I bet your going to have to find whatever spindles Wilwood used to make they're kit and swap those which is a hassle job. Or some kind of spacer to keep the bearing from sliding all the way down the spindle? Is it too late to return the kit and put the drums back on? At least you know those work.
  9. 3 points
    Stanley engines were built into the rear axle, had the cylinders exposed and a tin housing wrapped around the rods. Engine looks like a Stanley with the cover removed. Boiler also has the distinctive Stanley drum shape. Stanley was also the most popular steam car. That is my guess and I am sticking to it lol.
  10. 3 points
  11. 2 points
    I cannot answer your two questions but isn't the placement of the bearing on the spindle dictated by the machined race in the rotor hub?
  12. 2 points
    Well let me rephrase, all items may be viewed Friday, the day before the auction as well as of course Saturday the day of the auction. Anyone seriously interested in purchasing a car can call the auctioneer and set up a time to inspect prior to those times. No pre auction sales.
  13. 2 points
    I think he did it so he could run the car on unrationed kerosene during the war.
  14. 2 points
    Im not sure its fairly small. I have a nice black edelbrock air cleaner ill use if it clears the hood.
  15. 2 points
    It's a beautiful thing. 12 valve cages like new again. He was able to use all but 3 of the springs, and said the springs from the spare engine were too rusty to use so he ordered 3 new springs and had to shim them to get the right compression. The 3 bad springs (in the pic) were badly damaged from the forces of removing the cages with the Buffum tool, the 3 new springs that he bought of the right length and size had too low of a compression and you can see where he shimmed them. The 6 brass sealing rings on the exhaust were made by Terry Wiegand, the 6 on the intake were made by Gary at NAPA in Saratoga. He had to buy a huge chunk of brass rod stock and has most of it left over so if anybody needs brass sealing rings he needs to get rid of about 10 pounds of brass.
  16. 2 points
    The Buick is really coming together nicely! I think I recall you had holes for fender mount lights to use as front turn signals. Mine had motorcycle style front turn signals some previous owner installed. I removed them and added hidden arrow style LED lights behind the grille, so I have front signals, but no one sees them unless they're in use. A happy period incorrect solution for me!
  17. 2 points
    Just figured out the trunk picture, it is a steam powered generator for lights.
  18. 2 points
    Speed goodies going it! Cool beans. Let us know how she runs with the new set up.
  19. 2 points
    Ben - the WOT from a stop sign was a minor issue from day 1. Remember there were many changes in engine size and carburetor design during this period. The modification of the idle tubes is a work-around, as is advancing the static timing a few degrees. The actual problem is that the 1956 Rochester has no auxiliary air valve. For 1957, Rochester added the auxiliary valve to the secondary. On the 1956 carb, WOT activates the secondary. On the 1957 carb, WOT opens the secondary throttle plates, but the auxiliary air valve prevents air from flowing in the secondary until a pre-determined vacuum is present in the intake. This solved the issue. Opening the throttle maybe only half way for 1/2 a second and then flooring the throttle might also work, maybe worth a try. Jon.
  20. 2 points
    Looks like the real deal.....2 cylinder steam engine looks too new for Stanley? Jacketed cylinders...the large oval plate should give away the manufacturer.
  21. 2 points
    Engine and boiler look like they came from a Stanley. I have heard of a few similar projects by steam enthusiasts about 10 years after Stanley went out of business. The engines don't wear out, but I would be suspicious of the boiler. It would make a good project for a steam fan and the price seems reasonable.
  22. 2 points
    I'm pretty sure you can throw away NADA on some cars as some they value very high(prices you will never get unless at an auction where the liquor is flowing freely) and other more uncommon cars like this in this condition don't trade hands often enough to reflect a current value and the prices seem quite low because not enough current sales have been reported. 21G will buy you a Plymouth in close condition but still probably not as nice. In the Mopar world, one following it, understands why a Chrysler was priced quite a bit higher. Not to say this car is worth a boat load of Money but if I had it, I would want in the upper 20's at minimum and maybe a bit more if it's really nice. It is an Imperial which was the top of the line Chrysler for the day. I'm not in love with the 38 Styling but this is still one pretty good looking car. For example I had a 68 Big block pretty nice tripower Vette, All correct Numbers matching etc. I got probably 20 percent less than they said it should be worth. I sold my 36 Chrysler Convertible for probably twice what they said it was worth. It's nice to use if you are trying to buy a fairly uncommon car as they will probably value it low and you can use it to try to drive the price down or justify a cheap price from a seller, that's about it. I had only a 6 cylinder 36 Chrysler a few years ago and had a chance to drive my old 36 Plymouth that I had owned 10 years earlier at the same time, though mechanically pretty similar, the Chrysler even in a 6 felt like a Luxury car and the Plymouth felt cheap. Mopar guys understand that and pay for it. I think your low 30's is a good starting point. A crappy car to build would cost you near 10G to acquire and another 50 G to make this nice if it's as nice as the 3 photos you posted and the condition 2 you stated.
  23. 2 points
    Document, or at least itemize all the stuff you have put into the car, including your own labor. That at least gives them a starting point. If you play nice and respectful, you become the expert on what the thing is worth...
  24. 2 points
    I guess my '65 Gran Sport is somewhat unusual in that it does not have A/C. It was sold new in Seattle, so I guess the original owner didn't feel it was needed in the cooler summer climate of the Pacific Northwest. I read somewhere that about 70% of '65 Rivieras were ordered with factory A/C. Dick Sweeney, ROA Technical Advisor, visited Vancouver this summer. I recall him commenting something along the lines of "Geeez, that Super Wildcat sure looks good without all that A/C stuff hanging off it.". I guess I should take that for a compliment!
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    Why did I sell it? I had a buyer lol And I want something smaller, although my husband thinks a station wagon isn't smaller, only shorter! What can I say?! Thanks for the words of encouragement guys! I'm really looking forward to the search. BTW, I've volunteered to work the Membership Booth on the Chocolate Field 2-4 Friday! Come say hi
  27. 2 points
    All - As of October 1, 2018, all of the body panels and hood are painted and test mounted. Everything seems to be fine! Painting by Detroit Deluxe of body panels was very high quality. Now finishing engine and mounting stuff like brass trim, windows, windshield, and hood jewelry. Next step and pictures will be engine mounting. Ron Hausmann P.E.
  28. 2 points
    Pete, Also, I believe the AC version of the radiator has a right angle top neck because the AC compressor would interfere with the top hose if the neck was straight. If all you can find is the AC version of the radiator for your non AC Electra, you can still use the AC radiator if you change the top hose to an AC top hose. Tom Mooney
  29. 2 points
    Hi Pete, I dont know why you are having a hard time but just an FYI...All the 1966 Wildcat, Riviera and Electra radiators are the same except the AC version likely has a larger core and the AC version has a right angle top neck whereas the non AC version has a straight top neck. I know this from experience and I just confirmed it in the `66 Buick parts book. So a non AC rad from a Wildcat or Riviera will work in your Electra. I have cores if you need one but I would think with that many models to choose from you would be better off finding something locally. Good luck! Tom Mooney
  30. 2 points
    Annie, can't believe you sold the Burb! I'm sure you'll find something to love in the field somewhere. Can't wait to see your post when you do find it. Drop by and say hi when you can - GCC5-6. If we're not there were out shopping. Terry
  31. 2 points
    If you have a '38' or later service manual, they tell you how. Other later service manuals work. The first thing is to put the double row ball bearing on the front of the pinion shaft. You then screw on the front nut and torque it to - I believe about 130#' to 140#' That sets the bearing. Then clean up the shims so they are clean. Those shims set the position of the pinion gear against the ring gear. Install the shims back into the housing with a bit of oil to keep them from moving. Then you slip on the pinion collar and follow it with the rear roller bearing. Now this is important - you NEED to have the assembly spacer ring that keeps the roller bearing forward as you push the assembly forward into the carrier housing. Also, twist the pinion collar to ALIGN the holes on the collar with the three screws in the carrier housing as you push it together. If you don't get them aligned as you get it together, the holes in the spacer won't align with the holes where the screws are inserted. If you are close, you can move the pinion collar by sticking a small screw driver in the hole to make sure they are aligned. As you put the three screw in, they will provide the final alignment. The service manual tell you how to sequence the three screws - tighten them correctly. You will not be able to move the collar (rotation wise to align with the three screws)) once you start pushing it together. Been there / done that, redone that again - - duh ! You need to use the spacer (C-shapped) to keep the roller bearing forward as you push it all in place. After you have pushed it in place, you remove the instillation spacer and its sone. NOW I remember - there may be a spacer ring between the pinion gear and the roller bearing to keep the roller bearing from moving rearward and touching the gear. So sorry if my memory is not all there, I am suffering from 'old timers' so I use my service manuals. This should give you a good run at it. Then you need to put the drive shaft back on the front of the pinion shaft. I used teflon paste to lubricate the male spline for assembly. Do it slowly to get the cross pin hole aligned. I went to my favorite machine shop and played it on their metal bench. Fixed the transmission end to a non moveable block ? and then used a screw jack on the pinion gear (with an aluminum block to protect the gear. Slowly pressed / moved the two parts together until the cross pin holes aligned and then put in the cross pin. Now yo can use any (?) 1/4" bolt for this function. I used a grade 5 NF bolt and a lock washer to keep it together. Being a nut about balance, I matched the head of the bolt with a regular washer to try to keep the same weight at both ends of the bolt. Works. If you have a drive shaft shop close by, you can then take the complete assembly there and have them balance it perfectly. A great way to finish up a part that you will not be able to do easily in the future. Read you service manual to see if I forgot anything. By the way, "Dr Earl" the moderator on these forums, has the spacer assembly ring and the very important forked tool to tighten the carrier bearing on final assembly. It is not rocket science, just proper procedure with the proper tools. JMHO
  32. 2 points
    See hard head!! I'm not the only one insisting you go get checked out!!! Spinal problems can take a while to show up then it's hard to prove they were the result of the crash. As I have already expressed to you, so glad you are OK, and sorry to hear the bag of groceries didn't fair as well. Matt texted me these pics even before the police arrived and I was so shocked and saddened. Rita literally let out a scream. As some of you may remember this is the car that I bought out of the warehouse( along with 7 others) and sold Matt. One of the most solid '54's I have ever seen. Absolutely zero rust, straight body and good mechanical condition. Matt absolutely loved the car and spent SOOO much time joyfully working on it (til he got to the ignition, but even then he persevered) and had great plans of having the interior redone etc. While I am sad to see the car in this wrecked condition I can't imagine how Matt felt when he walked out to the car this morning. I feel pretty certain Geico will total the car, no way repairs could be less than the value. But not sure how insurance companies determine value of old/classic cars. Hopefully it will equal at least the dollars you have in it. Which brings to mind all the NOS and nice chrome I sold you for it. Hopefully you can replace/salvage that After the adjuster looks at it. Or you can purchase the car back from the insurance company. Keep us posted and I'm sure I speak for all here, let us know if there is anything we can do to help.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    When I get to the end of a project like the manifold I often find myself at loose ends deciding what I should do next. I should finish the water manifolds and intake manifold. Maybe it's the prospect of filing and polishing - a job I don't particularly enjoy that's keeping me from it for the time being. Instead, I started two other jobs. This pile of bits will be (I hope) a radius turning attachment for the lathe. I need it to properly finish the bolts I want to make for the external engine parts. Period bolts had thicker heads and usually had a very slight rounded radius on top. Bolts like that aren't made anymore but it is the sort of detail that I think lends verisimilitude (a favorite word of mine) to the job. At least they don't look modern and, to an extent, distract from the "newness" of the parts I'm making. I also have a plan to make special bolts for the wheels that will allow me to tighten them properly and have the appropriate high crowned head. The piece with the square hole in it is the adjustable tool post - the only part I've finished. I don't really know if all this will work - and won't until I try to use it but I've been looking for a radius turning attachment that fit my lathe for a long time. I haven't found one I liked or could afford so I thought I'd design my own. The worm and gear are to turn it. Most radius tools are hand operated - you turn them with a lever. If this works as I've envisioned it, I will be able to turn the tool post with a small hand wheel which should result in a smoother cut. The design also allows for precision sizing. This second pile of materials will be the oil pump. This is particularly challenging because I have to make it fit in the space taken up by the original rear camshaft bearing and its holder. There isn't much room between this and the face of the flywheel so I've re-designed it five or six times. I'm still not absolutely certain it will fit but it should if my measurements are accurate.
  35. 1 point
    Back again! This is the panel that I made out of some steel and panel beat to shape to fit over the door 'tread plate' I suppose you would call it. It has a small downturn on the outside to cover the pins holding the outer panel on. On the inside I have made the downturn to come about an 1/8" above the floor. I removed the temporary screws, countersunk the screw holes and fitted brass screws. The 'HUMBER' name plate will cover the two centre screws. I will have a think as to whether I hide the outer screws with filler. At least this plate will stop the ash frame being worn away over time.
  36. 1 point
    way coooooool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  37. 1 point
    Is that a Doble boiler? Would make sense for the period. I'd bet if so the motor is worth more than the asking price. Admittedly I know next to nothing about factory steam power.
  38. 1 point
    I can certainly corroborate that the Library Sale is worth going to. The best deals have been in literature from the 1970's and up: Because those cars aren't considered as desirable (yet), their literature is very inexpensive. There are a lot of cars from those decades that many people have probably forgotten, and for just a few dollars you can get a nice pile of catalogues to stir the memories. Library folks, since a few parts of the U.S.A. remain on Standard Time during the summer--but Pennsylvania does not--you might want to restate the auction time. You undoubtedly mean EASTERN DAYLIGHT TIME (E.D.T.), not Eastern Standard Time.
  39. 1 point
    I have always struggled to keep my sanity; when talking to someone who is not an avid collector of automobiles or motorcycles. Mostly when the person uses terms like ," Rare, Special, Custom, and the famous term, Classic. They have no idea that the terms; especially Custom and Special, are usually not always though a baseline line offering from a motorcycle or automobile company. I live in a State that brought out a licence plate , with "Classic" on it. It has lower time and other requirements , that an Antique Tag. Classic has a 15 year requirement from production date; Antique has a 25 year time frame. There are some other requirements also. So depending on your luck at the DMV or any special help from a notary; you can have a Classic car after 15 years of build date. That term Classic just makes my blood boil. These people don't even know what a Classic car is. I motorcycles, I guess the term Custom , does about the same thing to me. I''m sorry I was just venting.
  40. 1 point
    you could definitely turn it ok but it was firm. I can pull it back out if you like, the gearbox is still on the bench.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    John, the Long Island "Snail" Road was one of the major factors pushing me to retire. Possibly the worst railroad in the nation.
  43. 1 point
    Sorry to see this. As far as insurance goes if you have it insured for a certain amount on your colllision that is what you should get. Example is if my Bonne is totaled I should get $14,000.00 because that is what it is insured for. you do have collision and comp. on your car, correct? Best of luck.
  44. 1 point
    Maybe I’m missing something here but doesn’t balancing a crankshaft require adding bob weights to the crank throws? The weight of the bob weights is a calculation derived from the weight of the rod/piston assembly. Did your machinest allow for the different weights when he balanced the crank? You need to know. If so don’t change anything, just put it together. Have you talked to your machinest about what you plan to do? If you change something and the engine vibrates, he’s just gonna shake his head and say “to bad, so sad, you should have listened to me”.
  45. 1 point
    Agree with you, Bob. Anything in the late 60's US Army that I recall coming out of the Supply Hootch had a zillion contract numbers in lieu of a manufacturer's name. A true example that I still laugh about is a box of 12 everyday wooden graphite pencils. The description after a ton of contract numbers read: "12 each hand held portable transcribing devices" without the word pencil anywhere. Peter J.
  46. 1 point
    @Centurion you seeing this?
  47. 1 point
    As an AACA Member, you get a limited amount of free research each year. You can also stop by in person anytime to do research and their fees for copies are reasonable. It is just one of the reasons that you should be an AACA Member. This forum, provided for free by AACA is another.
  48. 1 point
    My girl paid me a surprise visit this weekend. We went up to Steptoe Butte to watch the sunset last night since she's never been. The smoke isn't too bad right now, but it was thick enough on the horizon to make the sun watchable. Right before it hit the horizon, it went from orange to an almost blood red and there was a visible corona around the sun.