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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/02/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Try and get someone to work on it. Most are poorly done, and the owners don’t understand the cars.
  2. 5 points
    This has been going on for at least ten years now. People watch cable and are convinced the want a resto-mod.
  3. 5 points
    Got out on some new old back roads today. Took a dirt road I had come across.
  4. 4 points
    Got up this morning and took things one at a time... I uncooked collectors, flex plate, mounts, starter, power steering and A/C compressor. Turned out the front bumper was in the way and the hoist arm couldn't reach over the engine. After the bumper and the center headlight trim was removed, I was able to reach over and slowly started lifting the beast. The leveler helped, but not to the point I wanted it to work. The pan needed 6" to clear the top radiator support, before the hoist hit the top of the hood. I put things on hold, called my next door neighbor and he came over help me remove the hood. I drilled 2 tiny pilot holes on the hood hinges and wrote down the number of shims each side had. Once the hood was off, everything fell into place... Flex plate is missing one tooth... 166 teeth plate, btw. Engine is out and secured on the stand. Happy Labor Day weekend
  5. 4 points
    I guess it could be interpreted a bit as a brave statement looking back but... we have it under control and all good after 38 years of marriage! ? Spent the day on the Special getting ready to put the gas tank back on. Set her up to wire wheel the trunk floor before painting it with POR15. Not bad for 60 years use and periodic storage. While putting on the first coat of paint don't I hear thunder off in the distance... Got out from under the car and moved her inside just in time! After Sundays coffee will be touching up the missed spots and putting things back together.
  6. 4 points
    Problem is, alot of restomods, never really got sorted so now they have a bunch of parts not really engineered to be together thrown into a vintage chassis without alot of for thought or even knowledge of what the parts came from so the cars even with disc brakes, don't stop, start or steer much better if any better than the originals.
  7. 3 points
    You should contact a company that makes air conditioners for your car like Vintage Air . They must have solved this problem a thousand times. I was thinking of leaving the car 6V and adding a small 12V alternator and battery just for air, radio, etc.
  8. 3 points
    Bob & I had a LONG discussion about this. From what I understand his original compressor had a catastrophic failure. This puts METALLIC particles throughout the entire system. This happens over the yrs. as most DON'T add oil when Freon is added. When Freon leaks out it carries oil with it. Since I've been in this business I HAVE NEVER had a regular customer have a compressor failure. Clutches & bearings going bad Yes, BUT NO COMPRESSOR FAILURES. 1st. off the mix of 12 & 134 is what comes in the lessor costly R12 being sold today. Some even contain butane or propane. You know what the mix may be with a refrigerant identifier. ANY 12 I've bought ALWAYS got tested BEFORE I paid for it. On ANY system I ALWAYS check the refrigerant. IF you went to recover this with either a 12 or 134 machine IF it was contaminated with other refrigerant it would then RUIN the whole recovery cylinder at which point becomes a hassle & costly to get rid of & CAN'T be used in either system. Now your gauges & other related hardware is ALSO contaminated & need to be flushed & filtered. 2nd. when we talked Bob mentioned the oil was a pinkish??? color. This suggests a large amount of condensation/water in the system. Maybe even a mixture of oils. 3rd. when flushing a system that has been contaminated you MUST pay very close attention. I would forward & backward flush the separate components multiple times with a flushing agent then alcohol as a last step. This includes the evaporator, muffler, condenser, hoses & whatever other components may need flushing using shop air (low pressure, no more than 35-45lbs.) to blow through to help clean EVERYTHING out. This can make a hell-of a- mess so get & be prepared to take the nec. precautions to protect the surrounding areas. 4th. On the compressor. Drain the oil. Put in fresh oil of the proper type. Cycle the compressor by hand off the car, right side up, upside down, sideways, etc.. This gets oil to many parts of the compressor & will hopefully flush out contaminants with it. Depending on the severity of contaminants you may want to do this 2/3/4 times. DO NOT USE a flushing agent or alcohol in the compressor. 5th. You will need to add oil of the proper type to the condenser, receiver drier, evaporator, muffler & compressor. The chassis manual tells the amount. PLEASE refer to the compressor manufacturers instructions on how much oil to add to the NEW compressor that was purchased some time ago. It could take the same or more or less refrigerant than specified in the chassis manual. Find out the manufacturer if nec. & contact them BEFORE proceeding. Lastly on a system that has been BADLY contaminated I usually install low & high pressure inline filters. This will hopefully protect ALL the components & ALL THE TIME & EFFORT you have put into the system to help protect it IF there are ANY PARTICLES that didn't get flushed out. All you need is a couple small pieces to ruin all the work & effort you put into your system to make it work properly & blow ice cubes. Another Lastly. Put the vacuum pump on & leave it evacuating the system overnight. When you bring a system under a vacuum the purpose is to boil OUT the moisture that has entered the system. ANYTHING that is left open for even a few minutes attracts moisture & being this system will NOT be closed up for some time the longer the better. To be on the safe side on some systems I've left them on for a couple days. Better to be safe than sorry. It's ALWAYS a hassle to do it AGAIN!!!!! Just because a system will hold vacuum for a few hours/days doesn't mean it won't leak under pressure. On particularly difficult jobs I've used Hydrogen to pressurize the system to about 300pds.& let it sit for a few days. If it holds up to that it SHOULDN'T LEAK. As you can tell this is a very arduous, long, costly process. THERE'S NO CUTTING CORNERS HERE. If you want the satisfaction of knowing you did the BEST possible job with the BEST possible outcome the time & $$$$ you spend will be worth it in the end. Just my thoughts on the subject. P.S. this is why I HATE long replies as this has taken me more than 2hrs. to complete. I'm TO OLD to be taking typing classes. Tom T.
  9. 2 points
    A while back a friend who was in an advanced age had passed away. His beautiful cars, which he restored and owned for many decades were sold off by his family members. A year later I saw his '61 Plymouth convertible being auctioned on eBay. The eBay listing made no mention of my friend or the history of the car. I thought it was very sad how this car, it's story and how the car was so important in my friends life, is now all lost to history. With that in mind, I made this little video on my Corvair Greenbrier. I did this to simply share the story of my van and to memorialize my journey with it. I also invite others to share their car stories so its history and memories can continue long after the car leaves your possession. Chris
  10. 2 points
    Here is the deal on Bohman and Schwarz: 1. 25% of the cars look as good or better (Think Sam Mann Clark Gable car) 2. 25% of the cars look 0k 3. 25% of the cars look worse 4. 25% of the cars are a crime against humanity (see subject car).
  11. 2 points
    My 1925 Buick model 25A Touring and 1923 Buick Model 50 seven passenger Sedan.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    No it’s not me I’m quite alive but thanks to my friends on here looking out for me. Also my car is the reverse color combo.
  15. 2 points
    I know... I ordered the timing kit, gaskets, everything... Now I have second thoughts about doing it... There are still 2 or 3 long bolts remaining on the timing cover that will be a pain to get to... I was so afraid yesterday a bolt might snap in half and it did... It was not one of the long ones, but still. I can't imagine how the exhaust manifold ones will be, IF I get to them. I found out that the smoke from the left side was oil dripping down the petrified value cover gasket. I pulled the valve cover and have never seen a valve cover so clean inside. I didn't even wipe it clean. Valve train is spotless, not a spec of sludge... Part of me wants to just put everything together and leave the timing gear alone for now. I wanted to ask how important is to replaced the nylon gears with steel ones and out of all you guys that have the 430/455 motors, how many are still running the stock timing gear... Took the radiator to the shop and was told it needed to be re-cored. I kind of was expecting it, that's why I took it in. At least now I know the cooling system is done. New water pump, T-stat, hoses, fan clutch and heater core.
  16. 1 point
    Lovely car, hope someone in the Buick mood gets a strong look at this one. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1954-buick-buick-roadmaster-riviera-2-door-hardtop/
  17. 1 point
    I've yet to come across a 6 volt system, that if restored to correct original condition, needed any changes. I have found some conversions to 8 and 12 volts were the person who thought it better to make the change obviously didn't understand how to properly restore the original 6 volt system. Do we really believe the original engineers didn't know what they were doing ? As for adding 12 volt type items to a 6 volt systems, I vote for the 6 to 12 volt converters to power that item and leave the original system ..... original ! Paul
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Because for some, maybe a lot of people on here it is no longer a hobby & hasn't been for a long time. It is now a business or investment complete with dishonest wheeler dealers that show up whenever money in large quantities is involved, maybe not here, but they are around this "business." Perhaps you've heard the saying about 1970 Chevelle SS's. There's more of them today than were ever built.
  20. 1 point
    I may have bumpers. Can you send picture of front and rear you are looking for. My email is humes45@yahoo.com
  21. 1 point
    Received some parts today for work on the quarter windows and back seat flooring. I received some valuable information from Tom regarding installation of new rollers for the drivers side window. Parts are on order for those rollers and hope to receive them tomorrow. Today I pulled the plate that covers the brake and clutch pedal to check the insulation and found that some was loose and needed to be tightened up a bit. I used some high temp spray adhesive to secure this. I also purchased the two boots for the brake and clutch pedals and installed those. I was able to stretch those over the pedals and no need to do any more dismantling. Next I laid that jute padding out to see how this was going to fit. The padding and the front mat were purchased from Bob's Automobilia some years ago. The mat was a pretty good fit, but there was no cut out for the dimmer switch. Brake, clutch and throttle all had proper holes provided, but nothing for the dimmer switch. The mat was the same (nothing for the dimmer switch. I have seen videos that recommend using spray adhesive on i the padding, but I would say first check the fit, as the three holes for the gas pedal are very close to the exact dimensions of the two screws and the rod at the top of the pedal. I ended up enlarging them slightly in order to provide play and being able to install the two screws under the gas pedal. I still have some clean up to do, but overall I'm happy with this product.
  22. 1 point
    Please do yourself a favor and drop/clean the oil pan. Do’t just change the oil. There will probably be thick gunk in the bottom of the oil pan that needs to come out. You will thank us later.
  23. 1 point
    Called the shop that has the gas tank and the repair work has been completed. Says that it will be treated on the inside with sealer and then the coating before it gets baked in his oven so Dave is thinking the game plan is to have things done for me before Friday. YEAH! Can't wait.... Meantime, came across a can of red enamel paint sitting on the shelf that appeared to be close to the red on my rims. Decided to test an area that needed covering on the car and while not exact, decided it made enough difference for the misc scratches and such for now. Not exactly the right way to do a car but for now.... a bit of preservation till I commit to doing a full body and paint for real. I have a pair of NOS front fenders stored for this car and all the inner front fender panels so the saving of money for labour, materials and paint is slowly coming together. Please don't anyone hold their breath for this milestone OK for fear of passing out from lack of oxygen! ? There was a comment from EmTee on another thread about the wax job making the existing paint pop and thought I'd share what I used. I mostly have used Turtle Wax paste wax all these years but splurged last week at the local Auto Store seeing a "sale sign" on this can of paste wax. I have no financial investment in this but feel with the wax on (heavy on the elbow grease) and wax off with a clean rag effort, it did indeed made a difference on my almost 50 year old existing paint. So without a huge investment on my part, maybe she looks better now from say 30 feet versus.... 40???
  24. 1 point
    Take out the Diff level plug to see if it is running down the torque tube into the diff
  25. 1 point
    Skymark, I think you will find that you are putting the rear main seal in bekwards. This seal appears to be a lip seal when in fact it is not. It is a compression seal the same as a rope seal. If you put it in with it facing the way a lip seal would go, it puts the contact point riding on the oil grooves cut in the crank shaft journal. Turn it around and it rides right behind the grooves. A lip seal has a sharp edge and a compression spring, this seal does not have that. It has a flat contact simular to the rope type, just not as much contact surface. Put the seal in they way you would a lip seal, put dirty oil on the journal and spin the crank and look at where it makes contact. You will see what I am talking about. Then flip it around and put it in the way that does not look right and check it. There is a Cadillac seal from mahle that will fit to. I dont remember for sure but I think the part number has a 600 or 602 part number. It is a rope seal replacement. I realize this is an old post but maybe it will help the next guy.