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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/31/2018 in all areas

  1. Pardon my ignorance, but my understanding was the 442 determined 4 speed 4 barrel dual exhaust. As the seller seems to be hesitant to give a $ number up front therefore I am no longer interested. I'm just not interested in a bidding war, If I wanted one I would go to an auction.The key to the value is "numbers matching" . A photo of the build plate and title would be a big plus. I'm guessing this is just a fishing expedition to get commitments then go elsewhere to sell the car. I thought the forum rules here had to have prices listed in the advertisement, if not it should be, save a lot of time wasted back and forth. His stories are a bit thin and if the car is really at a restoration shop better photos would be easy to get. Again its just a fishing expedition in my opinion. just sayin' brasscarguy
    4 points
  2. A week ago on my Honeymoon in Victoria B.C. At the Craigdarroch Castle built in the 1890 best the wealthiest person on the west coast of Canada. Great house to tour, the inside is just amazing. Oh the car, 1953 Super convertible Matador Red. My parents took this trip in 1953 with the same car on their honeymoon.
    4 points
  3. I don't know what the breakdown between 4-speed and automatic was but of course both were offered in 1969. They produced over 4200 convertibles. The person writing the ad seems to have inherited the cars in some way and looking for help. I don't read him as trying to do anything other than learn. He is new to the forum and probably does not understand why some of these comments are being made. His posts do not seem like he is trying to hide anything from us. Not my favorite year but if it is numbers matching someone will jump at this project if he sets a realistic price.
    3 points
  4. Well, I finally got Daphne started. No real problems, she cranked for awhile but then took off. There was some obnoxious noise from the fan or waterpump area that I think was a loose fan belt - you can see my worried and annoyed look on the video. The first few tries nothing happened, and I thought she might not be getting a spark. I loosened one of the plug leads and held it close and got a spark. Then the motor wanted to start. I snapped the plug wire back on and she started right up. Not sure why that seemed to be the "spark" that got her going. On a later try, I had to do the same thing. My coil wires are all rather long at the moment, so maybe she isn't getting enough juice at startup. There might be some lifter noise, see what you think. The carb seemed to work fine and I got 50 pounds of oil pressure. No leaks so far. I am pretty happy with this, as I didn't have to adjust the distributor at all and actually had all the plug wires in the correct sequence.. Lots of smoke as I had Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. I noticed a bit of bubbling around the top of the manifold, but a quick tightening of the manifold bolts got rid of that. The second shot has her running pretty well. Still not sure if I'm getting too much lifter noise or if that's normal. This really took a lot of stress off the restoration. A little work with the motor and I can put the hood on and start working on the interior.
    3 points
  5. I disagree. It needs work but not a huge amount of work as such things go. The expense can be spread out by doing one job at a time. And you will have a cute, unique fun car to enjoy. It should be worth the money in entertainment alone.
    3 points
  6. Yep... the flattest tires I have ever seen and the optional drop-down front bumper.
    2 points
  7. Don't make it harder than the cam lobes. It is better to wear out the rod that is so cheap & easily made.
    2 points
  8. If you are planning to go on one of the driving tours at the 2019 national meet in Oklahoma, please note that there is a change in the schedule for the two driving tours. The Wed-Fri tours have been flip-flopped in order to take advantage of museum hours and also to make sure the Friday group is back in time for the Judges Training class. The Historic Guthrie Tour will now be on Wednesday, June 12 from 9:00-1:00. The Route 66 driving tour will be on Friday, June 14 from 8:30-2:30. The new registration form will reflect these changes and will be in the October Bugle.
    2 points
  9. My gas tank is not back in yet but with having everything in my other garage, will be doing the work there as my wife is wishing to have her parking spot back again. Decided after work last night to fill the temporary cans and take a ride out to my sisters place as she and husband are fixing the place up to list for sale. The trip there and back was the usual thumbs up from the crowd (that cared) and returned after dusk so only put 15 miles on for now.
    2 points
  10. My helpers finishing up the deadener in the rear compartment. Now that the passenger side windows are adjusted, I am moving to the driver's side. I am still missing one of the reveal moldings, but I can get everything lined up and ready. I started by aligning the ventilator frame to the A pillar. I noticed that the inner panel moved when I tried to tighten the attaching bolts. I found that there were 3 spot welds holding the 3 layers (inner panel, reinforcement and outer panel) together. One of the 3 welds only held 2 layers together, causing a fatigue failure adjacent to the weld. Got some advice from some VERY experienced friends... They recommended drilling and tapping 3 holes in the 3 layers, then using 3 fine thread set screws to lock the layers together. The set screws and the interfaces between all 3 layers are coated with JB Weld epoxy. Repair worked great!
    2 points
  11. Safety measures! (To avoid lawsuits) 1. there must be an eyewash on the premises at all times, and a hose for washing down spills on clothes or skin 2. vent hood with fan to remove fumes in the winter, garage door open at all times in the summer, or people will get stinging sore eyes 3. neutralize project with baking soda to prevent flash rust 4. increase insurance policy and no customers allowed in the shop 5. Die young from inhaling fumes, tell wife ahead of time
    2 points
  12. FS - 1965 Buick Electra 225, 4 Dr., w/425 engine w/ 62K original miles for sale. Has aluminum valve covers, chromed air cleaner, power steering & antenna, PW/PB/PS/AM/FM radio, vacuum trunk release, chrome wheels, remote mirror. Garage kept. Original black exterior w/ gray interior, trim code = 642. Runs but has slow transmission leak & needs head liner. Small area of rust on bottom of passenger front fender. $8,000.00. Located in Lehighton, PA 18235. 610-377-6130, csgetz@ptd.net, serious inquires only please. Thank you. Have a nice day.
    2 points
  13. Added 191 more for a total of 1491 more. I'll make the next adjustment with the next fillup.
    2 points
  14. As suspected, all the BCA rooms are booked at the Sheraton host hotel. They just gave you a room at the normal rates. To anyone reading this, please call the alternate hotels listed on the registration form. All of these hotels are just as nice, are within walking distance of the Sheraton (no streets or highways to cross), and will give you the same $119 room rate, with breakfast included.
    2 points
  15. That pipe clearly says "For drain waste and vent only". Is this another exception when working on a Crosley FOR?
    2 points
  16. 2 points
  17. Found this on the Buick V8 forums, straight from TA. It's good enough for me. Buick Power, Jun 15, 2009 #27 http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/new-1967-76-400-430-455-timing-cover.180285/page-2
    2 points
  18. This is a photo taken around 1956-57 of a family trip from Flint Michigan to the Black Hills of South Dakota, by way of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. There were four adults and three children on the trip. It was my uncles Buick, and pictured are my Aunt and Cousin. It was the middle of July and no air conditioning! ? I can't remember how long it took, but we survived!
    2 points
  19. Please do yourself a favor and drop/clean the oil pan. Do’t just change the oil. There will probably be thick gunk in the bottom of the oil pan that needs to come out. You will thank us later.
    2 points
  20. You'll have a lot more interest and success if you name a starting price. Many of us are tired of playing the "what will you offer me" game with sellers. Check completed auctions on ebay for an idea of pricing. One of the things you will find if you do that is that most of the cars on ebay do not sell. Too many people apparently have terminal cases of "Barrett Jackson disease". Value of your car will depend a lot on condition of the body. Mechanical repairs are easy. Rust repairs are not. For example, from your photos, I can't tell what's going on with the left rear wheel well. Is that rot or just surface rust? And photos of a wet car only impress the uninformed, as the water hides a multitude of sins. Get real photos of the car that honestly show the condition. Informed buyers will want to see detailed photos of the typical problem areas. Post a photo of the cowl tag as well. Good luck.
    2 points
  21. IS ANYONE INTERESTED IN KNOWING A GREAT PLACE TO PARK YOUR CAMPER OR CAR FOR HERSHEY WEEK? THE HERSHEY-DERRY TOWNSHIP HISTORICAL SOCIETY OFFERS LIMITED CAMPER AND CAR PARKING AT A VERY REASONABLE PRICE ON THEIR GROUNDS. THEY ARE LOCATED ACROSS FROM THE OUTLET MALL ON NORTHEAST DRIVE. THEIR PHONE IS 717.520.0748- ASK TO SPEAK WITH THE PARKING LOT PEOPLE. WE HAVE PARKED-CAMPED ON THEIR GROUNDS FOR MANY YEARS AND FIND IT CLOSE ENOUGH TO THE HERSHEY FIELDS. OF COURSE IT IS HANDY TO THE MALL. PLEASE ASK ME ABOUT THIS, IF YOU WISH.
    1 point
  22. I just posted an article about this tour on the HCCA website. You may be interested. I double-posted a picture and have asked the webmaster to remove it since that's above my skill level or pay grade; he may have done so, or not, when you open the link. https://hcca.org/BOARDS/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1122&sid=44fc08aefcafc187f2c1a34e644 4d623#preview%23preview%23preview%23preview
    1 point
  23. It would be a stronger wire but it would not improve performance.
    1 point
  24. 1 point
  25. Bob & I had a LONG discussion about this. From what I understand his original compressor had a catastrophic failure. This puts METALLIC particles throughout the entire system. This happens over the yrs. as most DON'T add oil when Freon is added. When Freon leaks out it carries oil with it. Since I've been in this business I HAVE NEVER had a regular customer have a compressor failure. Clutches & bearings going bad Yes, BUT NO COMPRESSOR FAILURES. 1st. off the mix of 12 & 134 is what comes in the lessor costly R12 being sold today. Some even contain butane or propane. You know what the mix may be with a refrigerant identifier. ANY 12 I've bought ALWAYS got tested BEFORE I paid for it. On ANY system I ALWAYS check the refrigerant. IF you went to recover this with either a 12 or 134 machine IF it was contaminated with other refrigerant it would then RUIN the whole recovery cylinder at which point becomes a hassle & costly to get rid of & CAN'T be used in either system. Now your gauges & other related hardware is ALSO contaminated & need to be flushed & filtered. 2nd. when we talked Bob mentioned the oil was a pinkish??? color. This suggests a large amount of condensation/water in the system. Maybe even a mixture of oils. 3rd. when flushing a system that has been contaminated you MUST pay very close attention. I would forward & backward flush the separate components multiple times with a flushing agent then alcohol as a last step. This includes the evaporator, muffler, condenser, hoses & whatever other components may need flushing using shop air (low pressure, no more than 35-45lbs.) to blow through to help clean EVERYTHING out. This can make a hell-of a- mess so get & be prepared to take the nec. precautions to protect the surrounding areas. 4th. On the compressor. Drain the oil. Put in fresh oil of the proper type. Cycle the compressor by hand off the car, right side up, upside down, sideways, etc.. This gets oil to many parts of the compressor & will hopefully flush out contaminants with it. Depending on the severity of contaminants you may want to do this 2/3/4 times. DO NOT USE a flushing agent or alcohol in the compressor. 5th. You will need to add oil of the proper type to the condenser, receiver drier, evaporator, muffler & compressor. The chassis manual tells the amount. PLEASE refer to the compressor manufacturers instructions on how much oil to add to the NEW compressor that was purchased some time ago. It could take the same or more or less refrigerant than specified in the chassis manual. Find out the manufacturer if nec. & contact them BEFORE proceeding. Lastly on a system that has been BADLY contaminated I usually install low & high pressure inline filters. This will hopefully protect ALL the components & ALL THE TIME & EFFORT you have put into the system to help protect it IF there are ANY PARTICLES that didn't get flushed out. All you need is a couple small pieces to ruin all the work & effort you put into your system to make it work properly & blow ice cubes. Another Lastly. Put the vacuum pump on & leave it evacuating the system overnight. When you bring a system under a vacuum the purpose is to boil OUT the moisture that has entered the system. ANYTHING that is left open for even a few minutes attracts moisture & being this system will NOT be closed up for some time the longer the better. To be on the safe side on some systems I've left them on for a couple days. Better to be safe than sorry. It's ALWAYS a hassle to do it AGAIN!!!!! Just because a system will hold vacuum for a few hours/days doesn't mean it won't leak under pressure. On particularly difficult jobs I've used Hydrogen to pressurize the system to about 300pds.& let it sit for a few days. If it holds up to that it SHOULDN'T LEAK. As you can tell this is a very arduous, long, costly process. THERE'S NO CUTTING CORNERS HERE. If you want the satisfaction of knowing you did the BEST possible job with the BEST possible outcome the time & $$$$ you spend will be worth it in the end. Just my thoughts on the subject. P.S. this is why I HATE long replies as this has taken me more than 2hrs. to complete. I'm TO OLD to be taking typing classes. Tom T.
    1 point
  26. Hello from Rock Hill SC. My name is Philip and I have recently become a proud owner of a 57 Roadmaster
    1 point
  27. Fun stuff. I am always drawn to the unusual.
    1 point
  28. Totally agree...congratulations, Mike! Hope to see your Riv at the 2019 ROA, Gettysburg.
    1 point
  29. And it only took you 65 pages and 1618 posts....? MUST BE AN AWESOME FEELING!!!
    1 point
  30. Pictures from 1923 6 cyl.parts book. Leif in Sweden
    1 point
  31. I had to purchase a replacement carburetor for the car and then I had to buy a used metering pin for that carburetor. Its not that I overhauled the original carburetor off the car, its that I built this out of a collection of parts so I want to make sure I have all the settings correct
    1 point
  32. Ron, Two ways to skin a cat. The photo that Shawn has matches the style used on his handles and the handles from Hildebrand. This is just a different design that uses a ball and socket. Interesting to see a different style, but accomplishing the same task. Hugh
    1 point
  33. Thanks Bdad for for your thoughts on the 64 Buick. I agree with you on the seller. Something just doesn't seem right on this Buick plus he has been hard to get a hold of. It seems almost to good to be true for his asking price that he has agreed to sell to me. The car looks really clean as well as the engine compartment, but the Air is also going to be a deal breaker for me. I am still waiting to hear back from him on when I can get the car inspected. Thanks
    1 point
  34. That nice blue example is in the Hemmings Motor News that just arrived in the mail, and is listed currently on their internet site. I suspect it's still available. Isn't it great to know that there are affordable, nice cars out there?
    1 point
  35. Jim, a member of our A.A.C.A. region is selling his Century 4-door sedan, which I'm quite sure is a 1938. (Slight chance it's a 1937.) I haven't looked at it closely, but I think it has an all-original interior with some wear. The black exterior is very presentable. If you are interested in knowing more, PM me for the member's contact information. The car is within an hour of Hershey.
    1 point
  36. I've posted this before but rather than find the old one and give it a TTT, I'm posting the new CL ad. If anyone is looking for a 6th generation car - SHIP - here's one that's well worth what the new price is. $3,950 OBO https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/d/1985-riviera/6684298493.html
    1 point
  37. We did the same thing in 1950 (I was four at the time) in my Uncle's new 1950 Buick Super. My mom and dad along with me and my little brother (he had just turned one and rode in my mother's lap the entire trip), riding with my mom's brother, his wife and their daughter. We went from Central Kansas to NW Oregon. Didn't think a thing about it except for when we stopped on US 50 in Colorado to get a picture of the family and the car with Pike's Peak in the background. My uncle was taking the picture and trying to get us all framed in the picture and I was squeezed close enough to the car that I got my leg burned on the tailpipe. That I remember, the rest of the trip was uneventful and I remember nothing of it.
    1 point
  38. I didn't want to waste the time to join. Too many sites and passwords to keep track of now. If your spidey senses make you suspect, then listen to them. I don't know anything about the site, but a 34 Ford in the real world priced cheap is pretty much nonexistant. Evryone knows what they are worth and how easy they are to sell. If it's a good deal, a friend would buy it and flip it for retail.
    1 point
  39. The radiator looks 1930. The engine is a STANDARD series engine.
    1 point
  40. To all who submitted: I inherited the newsletter review system we have and really find it a fine way to do things. The electronic submission was done, I understand, to try to keep costs down for smaller regions. As has been stated, many regions have gone over to electronic newsletters exclusively. Many do paper only, and a large amount do both. Every region is given the choice if they want to submit a paper copy or an electronic one for review. Currently around 70 newsletters have been entered for the Newsletter Awards Program. A lot of regions and editors choose not to submit for judging, just like many of our car owners choose not to be judged. To review them we have 15 reviewers that are a hard working and dedicated group. I am thankful for every one of them. Roughly 3/4 of the newsletters submit electronically and the balance are paper only. Some reviewers only want to do electronic newsletters, and some want to do paper only (so John S we would welcome you if you have the time and you could do hard copy only). It is interesting and very satisfying to me that with the newsletter scoring system we have, if you look at the scoring done by different reviewers ....just like scoring of judging of cars, they come within a few points. Personally when I score a newsletter whether electronic or printed I use a hard copy score sheet. Just makes it easier for me. I welcome anyone with editing experience to get involved in the newsletter program, either as an editor or as an evaluator. If you have questions or suggestions, feel free to contact me at Tmkldwwj@yahoo.com Dave Anspach VP Publications
    1 point
  41. Never use Teflon tape on fuel systems. Little pieces of it have been found blocking passages in carburetors .
    1 point
  42. Depending on where your price comes in, you will want to verify that it is a matching numbers engine. Even if it looks original to the car and hasn't been modified, it wasn't uncommon for the engines, even under warranty to get replaced. To some that will be a deal breaker as it takes as much money to restore a matching numbers car as a non matching numbers car, but in the Muscle car world, it will make a big difference in the value and sale ability of the finished car.
    1 point
  43. A brass fitting adapter is required. I have two Oldsmobiles with the exact same pump and attachment. The fuel pump casting is fine thread, the steel carb line is coarse thread and is a larger size. Should be obtainable at a good auto parts store like NAPA. The torque spec for the carb to intake manifold nuts is 11-14 ft./lbs.
    1 point
  44. Still in the Pits with the Special but wanting to get back into the Race. Glad so many of you have join the Challenge.
    1 point
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