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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/02/2018 in all areas

  1. I had good news yesterday and posted it on the Reatta forum The Reatta prototype is in transit from San Diego to the National Auto and Truck museum in Auburn Indiana. I think it will fit nicely into their collection. Thanks for all the suggestions...........now stop at the museum the next time you are in Auburn and see all their cars.
    5 points
  2. Finished the front seat cushion today. The leather that Hampton Coach used is really nice. What I commonly see with the Cabriolet seat cushions that have been reupholstered is that the front corners are often scalloped in because the corners are not padded enough on the sides. The problem is compounded by the top of the seat spring front on the sides is narrower than the base is, so the corners want to cave in some. I applied the burlap as I always do and stitch the corners so the burlap is tight. Hampton Coach supplies a jute type padding to go over the burlap then a white cotton type padding
    3 points
  3. But look at that million dollar patina! ?
    3 points
  4. Just received great news.......... the Prototype convertible is in transit from San Diego to Auburn Indiana I am also thrilled that Sid Meyer, a BCA member and present owner of my 1991 White/Red convertible volunteers at the National Auto & Museum and it will finally get recognized for what it is. Here is a link to the Museum and I hope you will stop when in the area. https://natmus.org/
    3 points
  5. Apparently the car must be too big to fit it all in a picture. https://tricities.craigslist.org/cto/d/antique-car-for-sale-price/6655527349.html
    2 points
  6. I have a secret memo from Henry Ford to Walter Chrysler, dated 1927, in which they agree to phony up their compression ratio, shipping weight and speedometers but if I show it to you I will have to kill you. (Joke) What I know is based on 50 years of working on cars and reading about them. This phenomenon of published compression ratios being on the high side is well known. In fact if you take a piece of plexiglass and a burrette and check the volume of each individual combustion chamber on a cylinder head you may well find that each cylinder has a slightly different compression r
    2 points
  7. Anyone who would like to understand how the higher torque of the modern truck is further multiplied by a torque converter, 1st gear transmission ratio, final drive axle ratio and then transmitted by the ~1 foot moment arm of the truck wheel radius converting all this torque to a pulling force, send me a PM. My concern is for anyone reading this thread in the future.
    2 points
  8. I don't think the PerTronix unit is your problem because it either works or it doesn't. Just like an off / on switch. To check for a vacuum leak some where, disconnect all vacuum lines from the carb and plug the ports in the car. See if the problem goes away. If it does, reconnect one line at a time and retest until you find the line causing the problem. Then start tracing that line until you find the problem. When you reach junction points that split off into different directions, cap all but one line and test again. It takes some time, but you've been putting up with this problem long
    2 points
  9. Thanks. They are trying to pick me apart like CNN picking on Trump, but he hangs in there. Ivanka Trump in 2020!... first female president and prettiest. I called it.
    2 points
  10. That's the parking garage at the old Dynaflow design studio. They were coming out of work one day and a guy stopped and said "Let's put reverse way down at the bottom of the quadrant so it is the last option to shift into." The rest looked up and said "Good idea." Bernie
    2 points
  11. I used to buy from local guys too until they raised me out. I just bought a part online for $46 that the local store quoted at $159. A few years ago I bought aftermarket crown gear and pinion for a Chev truck for $189 that the local Chev dealer quoted me $1400. I wish I could buy locally, it would be so convenient. But I am not paying for them to eat filet mignon while I eat macaroni and cheese.
    2 points
  12. It is a year later and I finally got around to replacing the inside door panel window fuzzies with the replacements that Repops made for me to replace the V-shaped ones that I talked about in the beginning of this thread.They fit very well and the chrome looks as original. The only things I had to do were drill some extra holes for the staples in the area that goes under the vent window. They must have used full width stock with staple holes and then when they trimmed it shorter some of the staple holes were in the piece trimmed off. The other thing I had to do was trim the end by the door loc
    2 points
  13. As a fellow lamp collector I knew Richard well and helped him with additions to his hoard as well as some bits and pieces. I'd love to be there to see them but unfortunately am not able to assist. Whatever is done with them, plenty of good clear photos on the auction website will help tremendously. Terry
    2 points
  14. I love my little Reatta but dislike the smallish mirrors. I've always thought that the majority of highway collisions are due to drivers not knowing there is a car in the blind spot. I saw an Equinox in a parking lot with the top / outside corner blind spot mirror. The ones in Autozone etc. are big and clunky and frankly look lousy on our small mirrors. Amazon to the rescue, these look planned and are about 3/32 inch thick. pretty pricey at $11 a pair but cheaper than an accident. I am happy with them and thought I would share. Murray. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product
    1 point
  15. Replace the coil springs. They are available new. I used progressive springs on my 60 Electra. I did not need to replace my front springs. Car sat level once the saggy rear springs were replaced. Ride height is good.
    1 point
  16. So a quick update.. I started examining valves that were good and was noticing a lot of pitting on the seat and valve head. When I pulled the passenger side head, one of the exhaust valves was red instead of a normal yellow or brown. I found a local shop that said they could do a full valve job within a week time frame, so I opted to go with them. Just another expense I'm not expecting, however i feel it will be better in the long run. If I get the top end sorted now, then i can do the bottom end next year or whenever. I made sure to let them know the basics: no harden
    1 point
  17. I've got a set of saddle tan ones that I pulled from a parts car. Those items were color coordinated to go with the rest of the interior.
    1 point
  18. Seafoam...why such a JB Weld hater? I love that stuff. I'm sure there are specific "steering wheel products" but their base elements are...two part epoxy. I've seen the steering wheel repair kits for $100 bucks at Eastwood and elsewhere. Basically, you get a little paper mixing cup, a popsicle stick, some instructions and two tubes of... two part epoxy. I'm a big JB fan. Five years later, my wheel is still holding up really well. Ironically, the only flaw in the wheel is wheel is where I used a two stick (putty sticks-not in a tube) epoxy product made by Loctite. Back when I repaired my wheel
    1 point
  19. I am not sure when the 4 bolt carb was adopted. Both 248 and 263 have it in 1950. Have had both. What is telling me the probability of '50 or later is the water pump discharge coming to the side of the block just beneath the exhaust manifold. I THINK I see it. Ben
    1 point
  20. Didn`t the 248 engine have a 3 bolt mounted carb, and the 263 was 4 bolt? Craig, on the drivers side of the engine, if there is a vertical rib on the exterior of each cylinder you have a 263.
    1 point
  21. I would recommend exactly the OPPOSITE: Plastic tarpaulins (if yours is plastic) are not appropriate, whereas custom-made car covers breathe. The manufacturers of good car-cover fabric have spent countless hours and dollars developing appropriate materials. Virginia Car Guy, do not use a tarp.
    1 point
  22. If you are using original bolts, assume Grade 2.
    1 point
  23. Flathead 6 is understandable to everyone I know. Flat, in engine terms, apparently indicates an opposed engine which I learned only recently. I couldn't figure out what the heck is a FLAT engine....... I always called them what they are: opposed
    1 point
  24. My tractor is not pressurised and the additive works great, in fact it is the only type that I have ever used successfully. I last used it in a mate's car that blew out a welsh plug (300 Km from home). We plugged it with a piece of wood then used Silver Seal to seal it. We left the radiator cap not done up tight so that there was no pressure to blow out the piece of wood. It lasted some months that way before he got around to fixing it properly. Silver Seal must be added when engine at running temperature and the engine kept running for some time. I have always been reluctant to use such
    1 point
  25. With what John confirmed on the judging and deductions, depending on what else was done you probably could put it in Archive and see what happens. I have never thought about putting my Electra in Archive as it's had a respray and I've restored the engine bay. Even though it's dead stock, I know it would receive too many deductions as too many things have been "freshened up". You might be pleasantly surprised with your results in Archive. Nice car by the way, I don't see too many of those around any more!
    1 point
  26. They have a very Rolls-Royce look about them, perhaps Phantom 1 or late Silver Ghost? Are the splines in a V shape or square cut?
    1 point
  27. Pricey... https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1955-buick-special-parts-car/6659493459.html ad text: We have 1955 Buick special parts car lots of good parts on this car! You can contact us at 919-258-3431 Buchanan's Auto salvage in Sanford NC 1732 Dixie farm Rd Sanford NC 27330 Mon-fri 9-6pm John or James thanks
    1 point
  28. Good Info for many of us that own other GM vehicles. I have a 72 Grand Prix that is experiencing the chatter while turning but only after driving a while. I installed the Castrol Limited Slip Diff oil after a recent service but was suspect it wasn't enough. The car is a "Barn Find" with only 35k miles so I had no point of reference as what it drove like prior to the fluid change.
    1 point
  29. I must preface this comment by stating that I am yet to put water in my DA radiator. However, a couple of years ago I had my radiator dismantled cleaned by a radiator specialist near here. He came recommended as someone familiar with working on old radiators. When I picked it up, he commented on it being pretty good, but also said that because of its age, there may be a weep or two when in use. He recommended NOT to use any standard additive, only distilled water plus soluble oil like we used to do before additives were available. This also meant (and he advised to do this) that you could use
    1 point
  30. Thanks 1953mack that is correct it was originally green. I see on the firewall and in some scratches on every body panel. thanks so much for taking the time to post that.
    1 point
  31. Buick people, whether they belong to BCA or not, are the greatest people around. They cannot be beat! Proud to be associated with such stellar human beings. GO BUICK!
    1 point
  32. Seconded on the jack oil. That's what I've used in most of my lever-action shocks. Too thick and it rides like a brick and you start breaking things. You'll swear it's too thin when you're pouring it in, but remember that it has to be pushed through some pretty small orifices at very high speeds. Hydraulic oil is the right choice.
    1 point
  33. I for one, wonder why this vehicle was parked in the first place. Odds would say that there was some issue which caused it to be parked or it would still be in use. And forgive me, but you have no idea what that issue or issues is/are. What if, what you have now, is an engine that seized a bearing or piston or wrist pin decades ago and you just succeeded in damaging that issue further in the name of getting it to turn over or, broke something up stream of that seizure that is still seized? A modern truck has more torque than a 1919 Buick and you are on the reverse si
    1 point
  34. That crack about being the name for stalls in the restroom tickled the whiz outta me. And, I could not agree more with what you said about new and exciting in the beginning, only to become anything but that.
    1 point
  35. In my "vast" experience it seems that when many people ask for advice or information they are often looking for others to confirm what they have already decided to do
    1 point
  36. ...so someone has changed out the grille and hood emblem (and possibly the entire hood) on your car. Pretty sure I have a '46 grille if you are interested, but I am not home right now to look. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Leonard, TX.
    1 point
  37. Well, I am gong to keep right on buying parts from Rock Auto. ? I do check unfamiliar part numbers on their website with the manufacturer's website/other websites when searching parts for obsolete vehicles. I like to support local businesses so they will stay in business, but my last local independently owned non-franchise auto parts store closed so the owner could retire.? I am starting to like Amazon for auto parts also. With Prime membership, they can show up pretty fast, even on Sunday!
    1 point
  38. I was really surprised with my all my trusses open on the ends (36 of them) and no garage door on my building, I didn't get any in mine this year. Of course the neighbor has a barn and there is a Horse farm with 60 horses and multiple out buildings on the other side as well, so maybe they have plenty of accommodations already, I hope. Should have all the soffits finished in the next month so the No vacancy sign will be up for next year.
    1 point
  39. I like the very functional tree and brush separator's on the front bumper. If this was a street car they would be called Dolly Parton's or Dagmar's or something like that. One improvement I can think of is a combustion air intake pipe extending out of the three portholes then upwards to keep water from entering the engine when crossing the deep parts of rivers.
    1 point
  40. Yes Rod I saw this also. As an owner of both a Master and Standard 1925 car I would like to have it. But it will be beyond my means. Still waiting on the bill $$ for the engine rebuild on my Standard.
    1 point
  41. Appreciate finding this group - new to brass cars, uncovered a 1911 Buick, model 26 roadster – got it in running condition. Having the magneto remagnitized due to starting only through a slight tow. What should the plug gaps be size wise? Also not sure on this 4 cylinder how you know the oil level is full? I do not have a oil tank, just two filler tubes, one per jug, one side petcock on the motor and a plug at the timing cover. Thanks. Dr. Brian, Watseka, IL
    1 point
  42. The 18s will rub only a little on full-lock when turning the wheel, but you should be fine. These old cars have so much room under them that its a crime not to bump up the wheel size.
    1 point
  43. All good advice, i'm sure. But man - those 20" wheels sure do look sharp on that car!
    1 point
  44. Finally something I can help answer! So I can get more pics later this week but I have US Mag 20x8.5 up front and 20x9.5 in the rear. Sooooo, my suspension body is pretty modified but I can help with some pointers. First is the hub bore and axle center on a 63 won’t clear. I bought my wheels through discount tire. Not only did they have the cheapest price and didn’t charge any shipping they also sent them out to get machined FOR FREE!!!!! I have disk brakes all the way around so you may have to run a small spacer to get around the drum rivets but I’m honeslty not the best to answer that. I wil
    1 point
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