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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Just completed 4 days of touring on the HCCA Portland Group Annual Tour in John Day OR. This was a long hot hill climbing tour that required side of the road fixes and adding lots of water.
  2. 2 points
    Just got home a few hours ago from the AACA North East National Meet in Gettysburg. We left Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday we did the car tours, a Friday bus tour and then showed the '75 Electra Saturday. It was a fantastic event, extremely well organized and run. I was totally surprised and very happy last night at the Awards banquet when the car won it's First Place Jr. Award. The car drove flawlessly and we ended up visiting a friend in Pa. on the way home today. Total mileage for the trip was 767 miles and the car now has 22197 miles. I bought her last July with 18500 original miles and have enjoyed every mile since then.
  3. 2 points
    Yeah, I like easing into the experience of a car, too.
  4. 2 points
    Indeed K31, David and his wife are the principle organizers of the event, also had their 64&1/2 Barracuda there, I'm told it was #21 off the assembly line. In your honor as a Mopar guy, a couple more Mopars, I think a '67 Sport Fury and a '54 New Yorker. Both were in wonderful original condition.
  5. 2 points
    Well, after that, I've decided not to post any more on this thread, that's for sure....oh, snap, I just did....
  6. 2 points
    Hudsons already did Xander, Especially pickups right before I bought mine. Now they are on their downward slide. Already a bunch of even old people came up to me and said Hudson made a pickup? I guess they won't be buying one to relive their youth.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    I love this car! Totally unprepared, we jumped in at 10:00 last night and blasted to an event more than 60 miles away (our newly acquired 1935 Lincoln left us stranded and we needed a back-up). Did a parade in the morning, showed the car in the afternoon, then hammered home at 60 MPH in 94-degree heat without issue. Car ran rock-steady at 170-175 degrees, never stuttered or faltered, and remained eminently composed throughout. So comfortable and quiet, in fact, that Melanie napped most of the way and reports that the rear shocks make a significant difference in the way it rides (which was already pretty impressive). Smooth, fast, reliable. Old cars aren't supposed to be this good. Lincoln left us stranded just as the sun was setting Bulletproof Buick just works like it should, like it always does I realized last night that I love driving this big Buick more than any car I've ever owned. The way it feels, the way it moves, the way it sounds, all of it is more satisfying than any other old car I've experienced, exhaust leak and all. It's shockingly powerful and fast for something so big and while it's not agile, it isn't difficult to manage in the least and you can steer it with just a finger. My excitement over the new Lincoln (and the ensuing disappointment when it died) were immediately erased when we were gliding along at 60 MPH through the cool night air with the car barely seeming to work at all, Cleveland Indians baseball game on the radio. And then today, it did the same thing except it was a radiator-destroying, gasoline-boiling, tire-torturing, oil-thinning 94 degrees. And the big Limited didn't even flinch. View from the best seat in the house If you don't have a Buick Limited, you're really missing out. Old cars simply don't get any better. Go get one. You won't ever regret it. I've never driven a better pre-war car. I've been doing cars for 45 years and I've never had one that I could get in and drive any time, any distance, at any speed, without a second thought. My father, who spent perhaps 40% of his time stranded by the side of the road in an old car, would think such a thing beyond belief. Another very impressive performance by the car my lovely Canadian wife has taken to calling "Gretzky." Here's a video Melanie made of the drive:
  9. 1 point
    FREE stock radiator if you pay for shipping from zip code 35757 (Huntsville, AL area). Or come pick it up. It has a leak in the header tube (if I recall correctly what I was told when pressure tested at the radiator shop). I'm not sure it is worth shipping and repair but if it is to you, let me know. Pictures attached.
  10. 1 point
    I just bought a total piece of rusty junk. The the entire chassis is pretty much gone. Rotted completely into nothing. The car was original green with a white top. The brown you see is total rust. The kind of rust that when you run your hand over it large grains of rust fall off like sand. I just bought this car for the extreme price of $200. Even the people who sold it too me were joking that they should be paying me $200 to haul it a way. It took me the better part of the day to get it on my trailer, because the front A-Frames were totally gone and there was nothing holding up the front of the car. I actually used a floor jack to hold the front end up long enough to get it on the trailer. There was a main frame member in the front that was still strong enough to jack on. So here's the pros and cons: You might not thing there are any pros to this car but here's what I see as pros,... 1. This car was totally untouched for the past 25 years since it was parked in the spot in the photo. Why is this a pro? Well, it's 100% complete in terms of parts. The motor is 100% there and untouched. Even the battery was still it it! 2. It has all the glass with no breakage or cracks save for cracks in the vent windows. 3. The windows still actually roll up and down. 4. The dashboard doesn't look too bad. 5. All of the interior is in it. Obviously it would all need to be replaced, but at least all the frames for the seats are there, as well as the door panels. 6. It's a 3- speed manual transmission. (for me that's a bit plus over an old automatic) I prefer a manual shift anyway, but it's also far easier to repair and will probably be just fine actually. Of course the clutch and pressure plate would need replaced, but that's no biggie. The Cons: Do I need to even mention them? It's just extremely rusty. And the chassis would need to be totally re-fabricated either from scratch, or by modifying a newer chassis from some other vehicle. If I decide to restore this car I'll most likely go with the latter. I just find an old frame that's somewhat close and re-fabricate that to fit. Questions: Has anyone restored anything in this bad of shape? As rusty as the panels are they still seem to be pretty solid. I was whacking them with a big heavy hammer and they won't even dent. So it appears there's enough meat left to restore. I figure for $200 I could no doubt get my money back just parting it out. But now that I have the car home I've actually been toying with the idea of trying to restore it. Whadda think? Should I try to restore it, or just part out? I'm thinking too, that if I part it out I might be able to make enough money to purchase a better starter car? I haven't started the engine yet, but I'll bet it'll run. It's all there. I might be able to get fair bucks for the motor, tranny, rear axle, etc. Especially if I can sell the motor as "running". How much do you think I could get for this junk? If I can squeak close to a grand parting it out, I could probably find a better starter project for the grand huh? All comments are welcome. For $200 it's just a fun experiment. I could probably recover the $200 just taking the metal to the scrap yard. Surely I'd get more parting it out? I'll definitely keep the motor, tranny, and rear axle. I'm not taking those to the scrap yard.
  11. 1 point
    My grandpa in his first car. I would like to know what it is and the year. I want to say he told me it was a Franklin but not sure. He passed away in 1974.
  12. 1 point
    Not mine, but looks like a nice, unmolested car and quite solid looking for being from Connecticut. Is listed in the "Other Makes" section of Ebay cars for sale, where few Buick people will ever see it. Seems like a reasonable price and definitely has a nice, original interior. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Other-Makes-Buick/253752509622?hash=item3b14d404b6:g:4UQAAOSw3GVbSmUI&vxp=mtr
  13. 1 point
    The big problem is being cheap. The age old phrase you get what yo pay for comes to mind. Spend more up front (even if you have to borrow a couple of grand) to buy a much better car that you really want in the first place. No sense in buying something you don't really want just because it's something.
  14. 1 point
    Congratulations Ben on a great write up. It takes technical knowledge, writing skills and many hours of work to produce this kind of product. I and many others enjoyed reading your work. I am glad that you have received this recognition. Joe Indusi
  15. 1 point
    Some place in a box, I think I have a hubcap from the same car. The hubcap hung on a nail in a garage that was rotting in on itself.
  16. 1 point
    Found the cause of the problem - pulled the left front signal wire from the socket to the junction block and went for a drive. Both signals worked all the time. So the issue is with the light socket or wiring to the junction block. How can the bulb create a short in the socket?
  17. 1 point
    NAPA stores should be able to supply these items.
  18. 1 point
    Can't help remembering how you asked about restoring the interior on your 47 and when I pointed you to a professionally made interior kit for half price you couldn't afford it. But you can afford to blow $200 bucks and an weekend to buy another project. Wish I could say I don't understand but unfortunately I do.
  19. 1 point
    You can undo or loosen the body mount bolts/nuts and then raise the front of the body an inch or two off of the frame, replace your body mount rubber pads, and let it back down. Then do the same thing for the rear half of the car. Springs can be replaced without removing body from frame. Just be really careful and think things out before you undo them.
  20. 1 point
    Your entire problem might be your needle and seat. If it sticks and you are driving the mixture is too rich and will smoke. Easy fix.
  21. 1 point
    Haven't posed in a while still plugging along on the body work. Its almost all done now. My family car Taurus SHO blew a turbo so had to take some time off the Buick for a bit. I ordered all the weather striping , chanel runs , window seals every rubber part on the car that wasn't cheap. Was hoping to be painting by now but got pushed back a bit when falimly car died. Bit more sanding and shaping then I'll primer it again block sand final time then finally paint time !
  22. 1 point
    Don't you mean Billings meet?
  23. 1 point
    Nice middle-class car, 1912-13. Quite a few possibilities Any other photo's in your family's collection ? There were many makes that look similar in this era. Greg in Canada
  24. 1 point
    I doubt if E.L.Cord and Fred Duesenberg had in mind lugging these cars on trailer. Once while at Auburn,maybe 25 years ago a Derham (J164)was driven in from Connecticut and the owner was asked WHY.His reply was "It's to heavy to carry". I complimented him on the fast response.This car then was unrestored and reeked of mothballs.I think I might have pictures of it.
  25. 1 point
    My thinking is that the formal false front facades of buildings back then were used mostly on the actual store fronts. This is just an oil and lube shed, he he, AND this way was much simpler. IOW I didn't want to take the time to figure out the flashing As seen and discussed previously, I had actually installed two purlins on the upper rafters with a 2 ft overhang for the barge rafter when I came up with the idea of installing the rough cut tin cladding first then trimming it off. So I pulled them off and proceeded with that idea. That worked great and really didn't result in much waste of tin. btw, folks, it helps to read here, not just look at the pictures...? But I have a dilemma. I am getting short on the corrugated tin to finish out the 4 ft sides. I have plans for much of what corrugated I have left to go inside the BS&S garage area as 4 ft wainscoting. I do have sufficient amount of the 5V that was used on the BS&S ceiling, so I am thinking of going with that along the sides and back.
  26. 1 point
    I have the same type of headlight bar ornament from a Miami. I think it was a series based on the Chrysler/Maxwell deal. The Miami had an upscale model with a padded top called the Southbeach, an upscale model. Bernie
  27. 1 point
    You could drive it out here and strap down your free Hudson hood.
  28. 1 point
    WOW! my eyes cant stop looking at that Duesey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! like an incredibly hot woman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! damn, Im getting eye burn..........................
  29. 1 point
    Made between,1900,1905.I would like to know what the radiator badge says.that car is much later
  30. 1 point
    Dave, I run the same Dyna-Flyte 880 dist. plate, way better than the 3 ball-bearing plate, I`ve mentioned this plate as a replacement many times on this forum. The 880-D is the dual point dist. plate. They come up on ebay once in awhile, I keep an extra one on my shelf, it`s manufactured by Renberles Products, Detroit, Michigan.
  31. 1 point
    Fits Lagonda, Thomas Flyer, Flint, and Metz
  32. 1 point
    Just came across this. A show chassis at the Maas Collection. https://collection.maas.museum/object/214116
  33. 1 point
    The dark haired one does seem to cover a little more of the door panel.
  34. 1 point
    For the Fordv fans, a pair of '53's, both largely original
  35. 1 point
    I did say something for everyone, how about a very nice '66 Triumph Herald, a mid '60 Corvette, or a beautifully restored early '50 Chevy Pickup.
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Why I got a REATTA....I've always loved ''NON-COOKIE CUTTER CARS'' I've owned 100's of cars since I was 14 years old Many ''COOKIE CUTTER CARS'' & some ''NON-COOKIE CUTTER CARS'' The following is a LIST of SOME the ''NON-COOKIE CUTTER CARS'' that I have owned : DELOREAN RAMBLER MARLIN AMC PACER INTERNATIONAL SCOUT 1966 OLDS TORONADO FIAT 850 SPYDER BMW 1600 1966 MERCEDES 1959 CADILLAC WITH HUGE FINS 1963 PORCHE 356 COUPE 1967 PORCHE 912 VW ''WOODY'' KIT CAR 1969 VETTE 1962 VETTE And of course a REATTA I KNOW I HAVE OWNED MORE ''NON-COOKIE CUTTER CARS'' , I'll post them as I remember them...hahaha
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Didn't go very far but found a nice spot for a picture.
  42. 1 point
    Here you go Morten: http://classicfordradiator.com/radiatorsforgmvehicles.aspx See what they can do for you. They can rebuild your radiator but may also be able to fab a new one for you. Due to cost of shipping between you and this company, you might call them to find out what you can do to strip your radiator of weight. Just an idea but if they had the top and bottom tank, they might be able to replicate something in aluminum for you. I'm not sure of any other material or alloy currently being used than the original copper or new aluminum.
  43. 1 point
    Every single one-of-none car comes with a "special order" story and no documentation or actual proof. I'm really tired of the "well, anything could happen" argument, too. On another forum, there's a person who claims that his 1972 Olds 442 came from the factory with 1971 grills, because the factory used up prior year parts. Of course, his car was built more than four months after the start of production, and no other 72s with the wrong grills have ever been documented. ?
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    That half open wheel welt in the rear is a real pain. My 69 GS, which has the same opening, was a big problem when I had a blow out away from home on some 235-60 series ties with 14" Buick Regal road wheels. Had to use the bumper jack almost to the top, and then a portable floor jack under the axle to manipulate the rim and tire around the brake drum and the small opening. That was not fun! Freaking thing almost fell over off the bumper jack. While the fat tires looked great, I do not miss them at all and now have the 225-70 series BF Goodrich radials on the original 14" rims. These go on and off with no issue.
  46. 1 point
    Yup. In high school, we taunted each other with "Fix-Or-Repair-Daily", "Shove-Or-Lay", and "MoPar-Or-No-Car". And we street raced - there was a long, straight two-lane highway with very little traffic just outside town. We even painted start, 1/8-mile, and 1/4-mile lines across it. Cops knew about it and came around to chase us off once in a while but usually left us alone - guess they figured we were gonna race no matter what and that was the best place to do it. I'm a MoPar guy at heart probably because my Dad was, but I appreciate anything automotive - heck, even Yugos have a place in the world. I'm especially fond of any car that can turn money into smoke and noise. ? As for the OP, not sure it's fair to show a hardtop next to a convertible (retractable) - just sayin'. Anyway, I prefer the 57 Chevrolet to the 57 Ford - one can argue the merits of the mechanics but both get the job done. I just like the Chev's overall styling better, especially the fins.
  47. 1 point
    An important part of rebuilding MGA carbs is making sure the main jet is centered to the needle. There is a small tool that takes the place of the needle when re-assembling the jet and seals that insures the needle will be centered in the jet. And in my experience they always need new throttle shafts, not a difficult job. Greg in Canada ….. 45 years of MGA's.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Glad I found this group. This is my "90. I've had it for 13 years, second owner. 61k
  50. 1 point