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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    As we are unpacking the seemingly million boxes that we recently packed up madly. So we needed a break and took advantage of the beautiful weather and took a drive to Port Dover, a town on the shore of Lake Erie, and saw signs for a cruise, so we stopped in for a while. About 100 cars, or so, and here are a few that I took pictures of, another, newer Electra, and an original looking '64 Wildcat, and my own, of course. Keith
  2. 4 points
    Ford did outsell Chevy in 1957, but most rotted away by 1959
  3. 3 points
    I'd like to just take a moment, and thank the AACA (and the moderators!) for providing this great forum, and to all the Forum members who share their thoughts and knowledge. It's a lot of fun, both entertaining and educational, and we should all be very thankful it exists. I've really enjoyed it, as it helps me stay in touch with people now that I'm retired. You read a lot of articles about having enough money for retirement, but rarely is mentioned the fact that when you leave a business or profession, you also leave behind a lot of contacts and "business friends". So why this sudden outpouring of thanks? Why, it's my 7000th post on the forum, and I wanted it to be a little bit special! Thanks to all .............David Coco Winchester Va.
  4. 3 points
    You guys were right about the poor grounds! It's amazing how corroded they were. But now they are working great. Thanks!
  5. 3 points
    Out of the two, there is only one choice.
  6. 3 points
    I semi-daily drive my '57 Ranchero. Very mild "shaved" custom but dead stock powertrain 292 V8, stick, overdrive. Never rebuilt. No PS, no PB, no working heater. People old and young go NUTs over the car. '57 Chevs are dime a dozen and they know it.
  7. 3 points
    Thanks Brian, you were right-on about McNutt. Very reasonable, and, even though I thought they were just talking a good story when I first called, they got it completed in short order, the car was delivered today.
  8. 2 points
    As did Tom, I received an award from the Bugle and Pete Phillips. To even be mentioned in the same presentation with Tom is an honor. Wow! I have waited this long to acknowledge it as I needed to confirm what it was for! Have done so. The Repair/Reconstruction/Technical Writing Award. For "Hop Up", a shortened version of the thread about my 263 build for the 1950. Mr Earl saw fit to feature this in the " whats happening on the forum " pages in the Bugle. I mention this not to toot my own horn, although that does feel good, but to say thanks to a couple of great guys for noticing. Thanks, Lamar. Thanks, Pete Ben
  9. 2 points
    A dealer, broker or agent isn't going to do anything that you can't do yourself. While what you are looking for isn't particularly rare or expensive. It is, however, very specific and somewhat obscure. For this reason, when you find one for sale, you need to be ready to buy it and not be picky. You aren't going to have as many choices as buying a Model A or 1957 Chevrolet. If it needs work, or is too pristine, or an ugly color, or located in Southeastern Timbuktu, you still need to buy it and worry about these issues later. If you find one that is too expensive, just go ahead and buy it anyway, because someone else will and it won't be you. With such a specific request, you will have a hard time finding exactly what you want for the price you want to pay. Be flexible on all accounts. Joining a Chrysler club that focuses on prewar cars is certainly your best bet. Join a national group as well as the closest regional group. Join other car clubs that focus on prewar such as the AACA National and your closest regional group. The more you integrate yourself with owners of these models, the better chance you will have of locating one. Of course, keep searching ALL the websites, keep searching all the dealer listings and keep search all the auction listings. Advertise anywhere and everywhere. Again, the key to success is money in hand and willingness to buy immediately.
  10. 2 points
    Join a club for that particular car. I don't know about Chrysler, but many clubs exist for particular makes and models of cars. Also, join a local AACA Chapter or Region if possible. You would be surprised how often local club members know about cars for sale that might not be advertised publicly.
  11. 2 points
    Chris, I did make the purchase and it will be here Friday. I will post how it goes on this thread. I have a spare 35 amp generator if you want it. Just pay for shipping. No idea if it is any good or not. It turns though.
  12. 2 points
    After my study day, I worked on the instrument switch and light switch. If I had worked on this from the start (seven years ago). This would have been much easier, as the wiring was all numbered real well and everything matched with the wiring diagram in the Buick manual plus the hand drawn diagrams really helped. The problem came in when the numbers were removed from the wires, or were worn to a point where they could no longer be read. At times a wire would exit a loom without a number and I used a wire tracer to tone it out to locate the other end of the wire. At other times I used a wiggy to test for continuity (such as the #12 wire that exited the loom in the trunk next to the tail light). The instrument has six connections and two fuses. I thought it would be a good idea to make notes stating what the wire colors were and where they were going, as some of the numbers were missing. Two connections come from the light switch, one to each end of the fuse. One connection goes to the dash lights and one to the map light above the ignition switch. Two wires go the the clock and light for the clock with a split for the switch that operated the glove box light ( still working on what the switch looks like and how to mount it. Any suggestions). Another wire goes to the light for the ash tray. I would love to do three or four more of these to get more comfortable with this (just kidding). Working as a volunteer at the hospital today, so I will be back on this tomorrow.
  13. 2 points
    Interior code 634 is something called "Covert." I have absolutely no idea what that means. Paint code 75 is definitely Fire Red paint and code B is a black vinyl roof. Lots of upside here for someone with a little time and elbow grease to spare. These cars are surprisingly popular right now.
  14. 2 points
    I had been involved helping sell a 57 Hudson a few months ago, that actually sold on this site. It was a nice car but not exactly soothing to look at.
  15. 2 points
    Have a think about joining the Dodge Brothers Club Australia , they are a good bunch and are willing to help and hold good runs , the next national in your area in October, info on there web site . Bob
  16. 2 points
    Let me know if there is any rhd stuff you need as there is a lot of these Dodges in the Northern Rivers area and I have a mate near Lismore that has a good stock of parts for most models except 128s which have , he doing a sedan version of your car at the moment ,will see him tomorrow and ask if he is willing to part with parts ( we do a lot of horse trading in these parts ) ha ha ha . Bob
  17. 2 points
    When I purchased my wiring harness I couldn’t buy from my normal supplier, Rhode Island Wiring, because they did not have a pattern harness for a 32’ Olds and mine was in too poor of a condition to be copied so I chose to purchase my harness from another very well known wiring company. I ordered the hidden, self canceling directional switch so my harness would be slightly different from the OEM one. When I received my harness a quick look over showed me that it was very well made and of the correct type wiring but there was something that surprised me that was very incorrect. GM cars of the era used a metal twist bayonet type connector in places that they wanted the wires to easily come apart. On the Olds, the cowl harness could be detached from the frame using three of this connectors and removing the main power wire from the starter terminal, the wire at the generator cutout, and the wire to the stoplight switch. Removing the high and low beam wires at the dimmer switch would allow the body to removed frame the frame, splitting the harness leaving the chassi harness intact on the frame. On my new harness, in place of the bayonet connectors, modern bullet connectors are used on both wires with a Bakelite double female to plug them in to. My first thought was the bayonet connectors were no longer made but the last harness I received from RIW for a customer’s vehicle had them attached so I decided to call RIW as I needed to order another harness for another restoration. It turns out those connectors are still made so I ordered 8 of them to “fix” my $800+ harness. Because of the directional switch, I have a need for more connectors because there are more wires running to the rear and front fender lights. Looking at the remnants of my original harness I can see that the connectors are soldered on with the inside part of the connectors to the cowl harness to wires heading to the rear of the car. The one wire heading towards the front of the car is the horn power and it has the outside part of the connector on it. I will continue this pattern on all wires heading to rearand the front. The below picture shows the original harness alongside the new, the original bayonet connectors still on the wiring, the new bayonet connectors in the foreground, and the bullet connectors with the Bakelite double female connectors on the new harness. I will start to solder the connectors on tomorrow.
  18. 2 points
    A BAD connection will cause the starter to heat as current flow through each winding has much longer duration than a starter which spins normally. When I got the Confederate (in my avatar) the engine would barely turn over with a brand new battery. I found a questionable connection in the hot cable terminal end which connects to the starter. I removed it and verified it was a lousy connection. I yanked out the cable from the terminal end, cleaned up things and soldered it. Now the starter spins the engine as if there were no pistons in it. Night and day!....... ?
  19. 2 points
    My back complained about shoveling this morning so tore down and moved scaffolding to building and installed a couple of braces. Pulled the front two purlins off and backed them up temporarily. Going to try a different way of installing the tin on the gables hopefully starting tomorrow. Stand by... and a birdseye view from the rooftop
  20. 2 points
    Unless you did virtually all the work yourself,you couldn't restore a car like that for $35,000 CDN. 1938 was one of the nicest looking prewar Buicks and this one appears to be well restored. It should be able to keep up with all 50MPH traffic,but might have to breathe heavy on the freeway without an overdrive unit and/or a different rear axle ratio. As for an investment, that's a topic that has had a lot of discussion on this forum.Few of us in this hobby make a lot of money buying and flipping cars (figuratively speaking !). We buy them because we like them. We buy them because they're fun to drive and show. We buy them for their historical significance.You would likely wait many years to make a big dollar on this "investment", but you could have years of enjoyment with it and meet a lot of great people along the way. You will need a good dry inside place to keep it and it will require a little more maintenance than a modern car. Jim
  21. 2 points
    I suppose it's also true that we often grow up considering ourselves to be sort of a "fan club" team member of certain brands of cars. Or at least, I and a lot of my friends did. I am a product of a childhood in AACA (back into the fifties), but also graduated high school in 1972 when many great muscle cars were becoming common "used cars." Less than a grand would buy you a hot Camaro, Mustang, Chevelle, Road Runner, etc, etc, and street racing was rampant at every stop light. (I know, shameful and dangerous...but I LOVED it). My dad drove Chevy's (I fell in love with his 57 Bel Air convertible), so I became a Chevy kid...mostly. And admittedly, it was great fun to pick on each other's brand of hot rods...just as it's fun today to pick on the other guy's football team. Mostly in good fun, of course, then and now. But as I've aged and gotten so deeply involved in the car hobby and the industry which serves the car hobbyists, I've learned to appreciate nearly all the brands of cars. I'm a hardcore Chevy guy, but who DOESN'T admire a 426 Hemi, or a 428 Super Cobra Jet, or a Pontiac 400 Ram Air IV, or a Stage 1 Buick, or a 302 Z28, or...well, you get the idea.
  22. 2 points
    I think too that the '57 Ford is longer and sleeker than the Chevy and the retractable is a great body style!
  23. 2 points
    I think they are both good looking cars but I'm not crazy about the protruding headlamps on the Ford!
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Another update, after searching through all of the boxes of parts I found the distributor to water pump shaft coupling washer I was missing so very happy I don’t need to make one now! Still trying to get water pump impeller off the old shaft though. Engine is going back together nicely and after tightening the last two caps this morning I have turned it over for the first time, very excited!
  26. 2 points
    I don't even mind rude. Just don't be stupid. Rude can be managed and overcome. Stupid is unworkable.
  27. 2 points
    Tacked on emblems or no that is one good looking car, inside and out, Todd C
  28. 1 point
    Hey! I have a 1965 Buick Wildcat GS. It was a dealer offered package but I can't find out if there was a standard package, what was offered besides the dual 4 barrel carbs. Also, about how many were made in 1965? Anybody?
  29. 1 point
    On ebay right now is an nos Riviera wood wheel horn bar. Two guys have been in a bidding war for the last several hours with two more hours left to go in the auction. A few minutes ago the part got bid up to 7800.00, then one of the guys blinked and retracted his bids, and then it fell back to 500.00. A few minutes later the guy who retracted jumped back in and it's up to 1575.00. Pure madness........ this for a part that is reproduced out of a much better material than the originals for 266.00. MADNESS!
  30. 1 point
    Let me know your opinion... no arguments. We are all adults and welcome to our opinions.
  31. 1 point
    Vintage Pennsylvania 'Bicentennial' license plate. Perfect for a '53 Skylark. Good condition - but year stickers worn. $35 includes shipping.
  32. 1 point
    Tie ribbons around a lot of old oak trees?
  33. 1 point
    And what an excellent site it is! Alex
  34. 1 point
    A line up of 1929 wheel styles at the Denver Meet Disk, artillery, wire. The second and 4th from the left have regular wood spoke wheels.
  35. 1 point
    See my reply on your Lincoln post asking the same question. On my '31 Pierce, I had a problem running at speed, when I let off the water would push out the overflow and cap. Took a freeze plug (casting plug) the same diameter as the inside of the top radiator hose, drilled a 5/8 inch hole in it, and inserted same in hose. Since it has flanges, so to speak, on it, it will fit snug. Totally solved the problem and still plenty of water flow and cooling.
  36. 1 point
    I’ve seen both and both look good in the car it was meant to be in. Red Riviera Bob
  37. 1 point
    Those with 65's might want to go with the one in post #1 as most 65's came with the "custom built for" message. All the 63's and 64's I've seen say "built expressly for", like the one in the last post.
  38. 1 point
    Here is a problem similar to what you describe and the fix: When you reach about 50 mph under light acceleration the transmission is in 4th gear and the torque converter locks up. If you try to accelerate a little more and the engine hesitates the problem is likely to be caused by a misfire due to a weak ignition system. It is often mistaken as a transmission problem. To see if this is your problem, the next time it does it keep your foot constant on the accelerator while it is hesitating and then lightly put your left foot on the brake pedal. Not enough to apply the brakes but just enough to activate the brake light switch. That will unlock the torque converter. If the cars seems to smooth out and run better you like likely have the ignition problem I described above.
  39. 1 point
    "What should you do with old car paint?" Paint an old car of course!?
  40. 1 point
    Let me know if you need help with any information , I have a small collection of books that i can copy info from and can talk you through it . can also find parts ! depending on what is needed bob
  41. 1 point
    Why not just check with your local authority having jurisdiction? Although the advice given in this thread seems to be fine with me, following it may lead to legal difficulties. Just sayin'. Cheers, Grog
  42. 1 point
    Now that he has it, he'll probably has plans for the 4 note horn option. He'll go around honking the horns to impress everyone and the horn bar will probably break in no time. Ed PS - If you're not familiar with how they break, don't press down on the bar, push up on the bar from the underneath side.
  43. 1 point
    I stand corrected. I'm a mechanical engineer, so don't believe in electricity. Let me amend my statements to say that 6 volts will turn over an engine very nicely, IF all components are correct, with plenty of torque. I honestly didn't know...thanks
  44. 1 point
    I thinK some of your aversion to the disk wheels is that yours aren't striped to break up the "massing" of them...just IMHO
  45. 1 point
    Like as not, this isn't destined for a Riviera that "needs restoration". Rather, it's going to a guy who is collecting options that were never on his car. But if he thinks his car just went up in value by $2000 because he's got an OEM horn bar, he should probably check into rehab.
  46. 1 point
    I have the red clay around my house. Can't stand it!! Nice work!
  47. 1 point
    Judging from mine, probably a little lower than the seat top. The belts will be routed up the backrest and out over the lower seat cushion. The seat cushion will be compressed when occupied and the belt is being worn. The reinforcement plates should be installed horizontally (or nearly so). The bottom edge of the plate should be just above the point where the floorpan goes from vertical to horizontal. That will determine the height of the hole above the floor. By the way, I don't know if you have belts yet, but I bought mine from CARS (http://www.oldbuickparts.com/index.php).
  48. 1 point
    The '60s and '70s did a lot of damage to a lot of old cars. People cared less about "correct" and more about "I like what I like." To us today, with the benefit of hindsight, it looks dreadful, but I can clearly recall going to car shows in the '70s where you'd see row after row of brightly-colored garish old cars. Hell, how many suffered through the brown/tan with orange wheels and shiny brown vinyl upholstery phase? I bet 20% of all old cars were that particular combination at one point or another. Scott, if you don't need to sell it, I vote for continuing to enjoy it. Keep it for sale in a casual way and let people know it's available. Eventually someone will see it in use and that will be your buyer. Get out on some tours and let people see how well the car works. I think that is how you will have the most success moving this car and if not, at least you're enjoying it yourself. That matters, too!
  49. 1 point
    The Denver BCA Board Meeting Agenda includes reports from all BCA Divisions. So, since this forum currently serves for contacts and communications for over 400 registered members of the BCA Pre-War Divison, I hereby request our members to notify me about any issues you would like me to present to the board at the upcoming Denver Meet. Feel free to send me private messages if you feel your issues should not be public or if you simply wish to remain anonymous. I will do my best to convey your concerns or compliments to the board. Thank you, Mark Shaw Pre-War Division Director
  50. 1 point
    I sandblasted mine. Then wire wheeled them. Then added a high temp clear coat you can buy at an automotive parts store. Still look the same since I've running the engine.