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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Mike and Nathan Beach stopped by our little hovel today on their way home from a Chico, California Chrysler Airflow meet. It was VERY nice to meet them and to get to view their car close up and personal like. Also nice to exchange stories with one another. Hope to see them again. Here are a few shots of the car and the guys....thanks for coming by, guys! So enjoyable.
  2. 3 points
    I just heard the Jul/Aug Riview is out, and next year’s meet announcement is included as usual, that means the word is out, SO, I thought I would get this posted early for those that want to get a head start on planning. We are moving even further east for next year’s meet. Our host hotel is the Wyndham Gettysburg. The dates are June 25 - 28 (Tuesday through Friday). Mike’s, NC68Riviera, Aqua Zephyr must have found favor, it is pictured on next year’s LOGO! Some details have been posted to the website, as follows ... 2019 ROA International Meet Gettysburg, PA June 25-28, 2019 Tuesday—Friday Photo of historic reenactment courtesy of Destination Gettysburg Gettysburg and the surrounding fields were the site of the largest battle of the American Civil War. Although fought for only three days from July 1-3, 1863, it was known as the turning point of the war. Over 160,000 soldiers from the Union and Confederate armies met in combat with over 50,000 casualties. Total deaths exceeded 8.000 soldiers and approximately 3,000 horses. It is also the site where President Abraham Lincoln attended a ceremony on November 19th of that year to officially consecrate the grounds and delivered his Gettysburg Address. There is so much to do and see in the town and surrounding area that with every registration confirmation I will email a long list of attractions, so you can plan your visit. You can tour the miles of historic battle fields by car, bike, horse, Segway or guided tour buses. We will announce tours in the next issue along with a registration form. Besides the battle fields there is the historic downtown with its many museums, shops and restaurants. One popular stop is the historic home of our 34th President Dwight D. Eisenhower. For Gettysburg we were able to schedule the meet starting on Tuesday with our car show and banquet on Friday. We are also fortunate to be able to block rooms at our group rate for two days before and after so that you can arrive early or extent your visit into the following weekend. Since the July 4th celebration is the following week it is best to make your reservations early. Wyndham Gettysburg The host hotel is the Wyndham Gettysburg located at 95 Presidential Circle and our group rate is $119, single or double occupancy. This is an excellent price considering the quality and location of the hotel at the height of the season. Reservations can be made by calling 717-339-0020, pressing “3” and asking for “Riviera 2019”. For online reservations https://www.wyndhamhotels.com/groups/hr/riviera-owners-association. If you want to extend your visit beyond the 25th—29th meet dates you must call to do so. Registration forms will be posted soon. Mark your calendar and make plans to join us at what should be a VERY large event.
  3. 3 points
    I love the fact that people now bring their cars to you to be photographed!
  4. 3 points
    On one hand you are giving him good advice. On the other hand, if too many of us come to our senses you will need to find another line of work.
  5. 3 points
    The plate on my '1964 Riviera. See if it's not meant for my car. As you know, I'm Ed. The year: 1964. Buick's model number for the Riviera: 4747. It's Ed's 1964 Riviera.
  6. 3 points
    So, while the brake headache continues, I am trying to get other tasks done. I started working on the vent window glass installation. I measured and cut the glass setting tape and cut relief notches for the corners: Sprayed the parts liberally with window cleaner (got that suggestion from the guy who installed the windshield), and began inserting the glass into the vent window frame. I thought I was being patient and careful, but I sliced through the galss setting tape in the area where the drip channel is inserted into the vent window. The windshield guy reminded me that the glass setting tape can be steretched locally to thin it out if necessary. I'll try that on my next attempt... The rest of the vent window seals and the glass frame went in with only minor trimming/adjusting required. I've also been working on the front end trim and headlights. My granddaughter likes to inspect my work... Installed headlight bulbs and checked the light output; they were very dim. With all the powder coating, epoxy primer and paint on the parts, I checked resistance between the headlight attaching screws and the battery's negative terminal. The ground connection was very poor. Rather than scraping coatings, I added a dedicated ground from each headlight bucket to an adjacent core support attachment. Might not be "correct" for judging purposes, but I've done this on several cars now and I like the certainty of this ground connection. You can see the added ground screw and wire in this image. The arrow points to the ground wire attachment at the upper core support bolt. And now, the lights are bright! Also been working on the remaining front end trim. I was unpleasantly surprised to find that 5 of the 8 attachment holes on the outer fender moldings were partially stripped. I had to install heli-coils in all 5 holes. Quite a stressful activity, given that all these parts are already plated. Right side molding installed: It took HOURS to get these to fit this well. I still need to fine-tune the hood fore/aft position to allign the front edges of the hood and fender moldings, but this is getting close! Test-fit of the driver's side headlight door. Fits great! The headlight doors are attached with chrome-plated, brass barrel nuts, attached to studs mounted to the headlight bezel. I made new studs, using 10-32 screws. I also re-shaped the barrel screws to allow insertion through the holes in the headlight doors. After installation in the headlight door, the barrel screws were originally flared to retain the barrel screws in the door. T-3 headlights are installed; next step is to attach the seals to the back side of the doors and install them.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    I knew I had to turn around that day and take a pic. I almost didn’t, but now I’m really glad I did! It’s pretty cool that y’all got to meet!
  9. 2 points
    "Bobcopy", I see from the picture you included with your initial question, the license is a "California Horseless Carriage" plate. If you (The Car) is STILL in California and you want to list it for sale with like-minded Dodge Brothers Owners? Feel free to contact the Northern California Dodge Brothers & Sisters at: donncharles1@ gmail.com or dbbros@aol.com Include a couple of 'general' pictures and where it is currently located / stored ........ We may be able to help sell your car. Keep-on-Dodgin' "Power Wagon Dude" A Member of NCDB&S
  10. 2 points
    Depending on how you are planning to use it, Maybe see if you can find someone that will let you ride along in theirs to see which you want. Old original and slow which has a vibe and is alot of fun or a fast hot rod, without any soul. There are plenty of both worlds out there. I can appreciate both and have had both. (my bone stock 49 3100) and a Shortbed Fleetside 66 with a 454 and turbo 400, which ironically still had stock brakes and would lock the 10 inch wide rubber up with no problem, Lucky for that deer that was darn near a hood ornament) It's all in what you plan on doing with it. Also ask those owners why they like it that way and what would they improve upon or not touch.
  11. 2 points
    Much appreciated! it's an 87, and is $900. Moved to the country recently and wanted a cool old car. Was thinking to take care of the rust myself with touch up paint just to get it looking alright, not really looking to do much beyond drive it for a maybe a year? Going to take a look at it tomorrow and will check the rust on undercarriage. Has a clear title and says vinyl is clean but we will see...
  12. 2 points
    The trade offers are usually pretty much other peoples junk. I answer those "what's you bottom dollar" questions with "bring your money and we can discuss that in person". These people are bottom feeders whether they know it or not. They will never show up with the money because they are not serious.
  13. 2 points
    That might be a Judkins body but it didn't come off a Model J chassis. Both Judkins coupes still exist and have their original bodies.
  14. 2 points
    I had a different take on this comment. I think we're the ones who 'just don't understand'. Largely for reasons that Bernie outlined; it has become increasingly clear that GM and other automakers are not targeting me with their advertising. Although I could walk in, pay cash and drive away with a new car, that's not going to maximize the company's profit. They'd prefer that I lease a loaded model for 36 months with 'free maintenance', so that I'll be sure to stop-by and see the dealer's service department for my 'free' maintenance. "Oh, while you're here we suggest that you consider..." And then on turn-in day, they can ding you for the 'abnormal wear & tear' -- but don't fret, we have a special loyalty lease deal on the new model, so you're still coming out ahead! I had to roll my eyes at the latest Chevy ad where 'real people' who are dating are shown 3 SUVs in graduated size for when they move in together or have their '5 kids and a dog'. No mention of marriage, however. Why would they when they don't even want you to commit to purchasing one of their automobiles? In the same vein, there's a local new car dealer whose ads stress how quickly they can get you in and out in that 'new car' --all before you realize what you've just done...
  15. 2 points
    Thanks for the kind words. I like to be able to help out other hobbyists and I enjoy a challenge. As you know, after you sent me the photo of the BASCO logo, I created it from scratch on the computer using my engraving software to create the diamond shape. I then simply created 5 separate individual text sections which I could then manually enlarge as needed and place in the right location to create the correct effect, which while certainly not a perfect copy of the original, looks convincing in the small logo. For the data plate it was a bit more involved than a "regular" engraving job. Most of the text just required typing in the correct font. Unforunately none of the fonts that I use have quite the correct "I" for the "1" so I used a standard "I" and used software's shape creation capability and created the top and bottom lines manually. The "6" is probably the strangest element of the whole design. I used my software to create a vertical line and then used it to create a couple of arcs that I could position to form the bottom loop of the "6". The line spacing was a bit odd, so I did each line individually and repositioned the data plate on the engraving machine and taped it down in the correct position to engrave each line separately. If anybody else needs a similar job I now have all of that information saved so I can more easily do another similar one in the future. While a bit time consuming, it was a fun deviation from my normal day to day engraving jobs. Thanks again!
  16. 2 points
    OK -- so now I'd really suspect the filter sock on the tank pickup is clogged with the same crap you saw in the fuel filter. The real test would be to connect a temporary fuel source and drive the car (BE CAREFUL if you try this). I think the next step is to drop the tank...
  17. 2 points
    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. From the photo, I am going to guess you live somewhere up north where salt is used on the roadways in winter weather. I would seriously ask about the amount of rust on the frame and undercarriage. I would carefully examine the bottom of the car for rust issues. Other than that, I would suggest you find a local AACA Region or Chapter in your area and join the club. By joining the club, you will be able to find local antique car folks who can help you learn more about what to look for in cars in your area. They can also help you find the best car for your money in your area, and can probably save you a lot of grief by buying a car that you will regret. With that said, if it is not rusted to the point of being unsafe, and the price is right, the one you found might just be a perfect first antique car for you. Enjoy the hobby!
  18. 2 points
    Does it have a clear title Does it run & stop (brakes) A car like that is not worth much. (may be worth what good tires are worth)
  19. 2 points
    What you missed seeing Kaiser is the 20 or so brass era cars that are on the Red Rock Tour. This tour started 2 weeks ago in Ketchem Idaho. They are about 1700 miles into their 2500 mile trip. How doI know all this? My son is on it with his 15 Mercer Sporting 4. He's having a great time Here's the Mercer and some of the cars on tour Ken
  20. 2 points
    As most in this hobby know, it’s more than less, we’re always waiting for something. Whether its the machine shop, the paint shop, the chrome plater, the interior manufacturer, wiring harness company, etc., we always are waiting for something for our cars and many times, the wait can be from weeks to months. Just a couple weeks ago I was very surprised when my headlight reflectors came back in the mail after being away for just nine days total! Now that’s service and something I’m just not used to in this hobby. I also figured it couldn’t get any better than that. Well, I was wrong. One of the very first projects I tackled on my Olds was machining a new lock cylinder and dust cover for my golf bag door. The originals often deteriorate because they were made of white metal so I had to make my own. While my lock cylinder and dust cover looked very close to the original, it lacked the BASCO logo on the dust cover. I thought that possibly I could find someone, some day, that could engrave the logo on the cover for me. I also needed to get my new sill data plate numbers engraved because the font Oldsmobile used in 32’ doesn’t come close to any number stamp set I can find. I wanted both these items as OEM correct as possible. While reading other restoration threads here in this forum, I read a post from our own Matt Hinson in his Buick thread stating that he had been doing some engraving. DING, DING, immediately the bell went off and I PM’d Matt. After a couple emails, we agreed on attempting the project and I mailed the lock cylinder with the data plate to him this past Monday. The package arrived with Matt on Wednesday and later that day, I received an email with images of my FINISHED data plate and lock cylinder dust cover! Matt shipped them out on Thursday and they arrived today. So just when I thought it couldn’t get any better than Ulvira’s service, along comes Matt and blows it out of the water. I’m pretty sure things can’t get any better!
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    OK, I'll post one of me with my first "car". The date is June 5, 1952 (thanks, Mom, for writing on the back...). I'm almost 3 in the photo. And yes, I still have the pedal car. Since we lived in the country, there were no sidewalks to drive on and thus it didn't get 'driven' much. Today, it looks almost exactly as it did then.
  23. 2 points
    The 4 wheel disc conversion with the original drivetrain is a waste of time. This truck even with the 4 speed in stock form is probably good for about 50 MPH and a little more if you really want to flog that 6. A fully restored set of factory brakes will stop it quite adequately. The conversion will probably give you more headaches than you want. If you plan on putting a V8 and everything else in it and aren't a real good mechanic / engineer buy one already done you can test drive. There is more engineering to modifying something from stock than alot of people understand. Craigslist is full of cars that are 80 to 90 percent there. It takes alot to get that last 10 percent right. Let us know how you make out. Cab corners, and the cowl where the fenders bolt as well as driver's side floor and the bottom of the steel kick panels rot out in these trucks first as well as the rear fenders where the running boards bolt. They are a mail order truck otherwise and you can buy every part for them with just about one phone call.
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Beautiful sunset tonight over Frank Cwikla's '40 Limited.
  26. 2 points
    came upon an interesting roadside attraction :
  27. 1 point
    Not my car, but I got a look at real barn-find Metz yesterday; a 1917 Model 25 touring. It's been parked for around 50 years, and has a completely oxidized patina, but no rust-through and a nice, straight body. The wood looks good, also. The car seems amazingly complete and original, including both bottom pans (engine & transmission cover), the tops bows (and dry-rotted canvas), original upholstery... even the side curtains. In fact, the only missing part I could identify was one of the hub caps. It even has a set of pretty green Splitdorf plugs. The tires hold air and the steering is not sloppy. Original linoleum floorboards with clutch instruction plate are there, Gray & Davis head lamps. As I say, it's not my car, but contact me and can give you the seller's contact info. I think it can be had for $6500. Located in se PA. Phil
  28. 1 point
    Despite a severe bout with vapor lock and a failed coil, I made it to the meet today after spending 6 hours on the side of the highway yesterday. Here's a freshly restored 1963 LeSabre with factory 4-speed and 425 V8.
  29. 1 point
    I vote for a 1937 Oldsmobile.
  30. 1 point
    John, Looks very promising. Thanks.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    I had a 61 that I was lucky enough to find an original tonneau for back in the early 2000's for the same 500 they wanted for the repros. After seeing these, boy am I glad I found an original. Those look terrible. I picked it up in CT about a 8 hour round trip, but well worth it. I think I paid half as much just to have an upholstery shop upholster the head rests to match my interior (which was done before I traded for the car) When I find a picture of the car, I'll post it.
  33. 1 point
    Hey, thanks so much everyone. Great advice. I will keep plugging away and report my results. Today is compression test day. Should be pretty quick considering the cylinders are so accessible on this thing! I stick my head under the hood I get so excited with how much room there is.
  34. 1 point
    Yeah, the repros have horrible fit and finish. Even the factory pieces weren't all that good. I recently sold a '60 Thunderbird, which never came with a tonneau, but the buyer wanted one. So he ordered a repro from the place that makes them and had it delivered to our shop for installation. The fit wasn't even close. It was embarrassingly bad and he would have spent more making it fit than he paid for it in the first place. We arranged to send it back to the manufacturer and he simply enjoyed the car without it. They don't look right on the earlier cars anyway and they're a pain if you suddenly need the back seat.
  35. 1 point
    I noticed that "shacked up" ad, too. One of those mental notes I stash away. An ad showing them sleeping in their new 1974 Suburban after being turned away from a Rutland, VT, hotel because they weren't married would have brought a smile to my face. Just a random thought, about a random event, by a random couple, on my part, of course. Bernie
  36. 1 point
    Nice work. Should last forever.? Ray.
  37. 1 point
    For anyone attempting to re-galvanise their sump I’ve had mine done and just finished re-assembling it. The inner oil plate had to be removed for plating (as it wasn’t plated originally) and is riveted in place and the rivers soldered to prevent leaks. I wasn’t looking forward to it as I thought that soldering the rivers to the galvanising would be difficult. Turned out to be quite easy, just had to make sure it was all clean and surfaces were ‘tinned’ prior to assembly. Rear tube re fitted and inner tray ready to fit. tray rivited in place Rivets soldered to seal heads
  38. 1 point
    Something like this? Bulb/CP/base 53: 1 BA9S 90: 6 BA15D 161: 1 T3 194: 2 T3 1445: .5 BA9S 1816: 3 BA9S 1881: 1 BA9S 1893: 2 BA9S BA9S: miniature bayonet BA15D: double contact bayonet T3: wedge - dash: (6) 161/194 - clock: 1816 - hot/alt/oil: (3) red 194 - cold: green 194 - parking brake: red 1816 - signals: (2) green 194 - high beams: red 194 - IGN switch: 1445 - cruise: 53 - radio: 1881 - HVAC: (2) 1816 - front courtesy: 90 - front ashtray: 53/1816 - front console: (2) 90 - shift indicator: 1816 - glovebox: 1893 - rear courtesy: 90 - rear ashtray: - sail panel: (2) 90 If two bulbs are listed, the second is the brighter of the two. If you want LEDs, warm white is a more pleasant, almost incandescent look compared to the harsh whiteness of cool white.
  39. 1 point
    I had the same issue on my Riviera though. Make sure all the parts are there for the spring assembly. I was missing a perch. I ended up fabbing my own perches. It helped equalize the height.
  40. 1 point
    This place might help with the springs. http://www.romeoengineering.com/Vintage.html
  41. 1 point
    It is the right way to do it... the alternatives are more complicated and not as satisfactory.
  42. 1 point
    Party's over...heading home tomorrow. 1200 miles so far.
  43. 1 point
    I thought you would like that one auburnseeker, my guess is the body shell was pretty stripped down before that build was started.
  44. 1 point
    I'm not picking it apart. I LOVE it! But I think you might need to moderate your price a bit. There are guys that will buy a project just to get on the ladder and "payment plan" with a car they otherwise can't afford. There will be a buyer for your car as 53 Caribbeans are COOL and somebody will want it. But don't let it stay outside much longer.
  45. 1 point
    My 47 Hudson Pickup came from a guy named Mr wells. He had his son engrave the custom made racks with his name, there is also a card from his memorial tucked up under the edge of the dome lamp. I just left them the way they were, The racks are nicely done, I could cover the name up, but why. It's Mr Wells truck. It looked like it was his pride and joy. I think he had it atleast 20 years. I've been improving on it slowly but don't plan on changing it.
  46. 1 point
    Ken, I took the plastic end of a screw driver and pounded the top down until it cleared the pinch. Then I used soap and water and needle nosed pliers to pull it up. The old piece slid out without issue once it was clear of the pinch. I did not replace the actual window seal, just the strip.
  47. 1 point
    Paul, If you want their 2N material, you might as well wait a while. If you want any other material, I would not be concerned. I think they said it would take 6 to 8 weeks to produce my kit. My kit was ordered on 4-26-18. It was delivered on 6-18-18.
  48. 1 point
    You seem to get more done than me each day and I actually spent most of the day on it. I'll post over on my thread. Looking good. I could feel that heat the other day really starting to come through my roof and that's 16 feet to the low end. I imagine it's much toastier up in the air than down on the cool ground where I am.
  49. 1 point
    In the past twelve months, I was at a major collection and they were "selling" a car, that was very nice and 100 points. It seems somewhere along the way it ended up having less doors, less windows, bigger power plant, ect,ect,ect.......you get the drift. Even people with years of experience can get misdirected, fooled, or be victims of fraud. Recently a guy who made two cars out of one real great car and sold both as the read deal, since he was known to have the real thing, it got past the new buyers........... anytime you spend more than 100,000 dollars on a cAr, you should pay an expert to look at it for you, even if your an expert. I practice what I preach, its very easy to get burned.
  50. 1 point
    No need to pull the dash apart. Replace the speedometer drive cable. Ben