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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/16/2018 in all areas

  1. This post has nothing important in it, except to thank you all for the great info, pictures, and comments you have shared over the last 10 years. This post is number 1000 for me and while I do not post as much as some of you, I really enjoy all the old car wisdom you share daily. Keep up the good work. Fleek
    6 points
  2. Thanks to all who replied or just read my note. This is indeed a special place where we are all willing to share with each other. I am looking forward to continue to gain knowledge, and even share a little at times, in the days to come.
    4 points
  3. 4 points
  4. Buying the best possible Riv for a full resto goes double when you live outside of Nth America. You have to factor in the cost of shipping for parts. Soon shipping to Australia will be hit with a 10% goods tax. I would NEVER even consider doing a resto on a Riv if it wasn't even in good driveable condition to begin with. And when you start talking about cars that need extensive panel work due to rust you are really looking for a whole lot of work and frustration. Unless you already have the skills/time and enjoy doing it. I am currently 50% on total resto and have enjoyed almost every m
    3 points
  5. My dear friends, being unfamiliar with these engines and not knowing what other changes may have been done in the past made me a little skeptical as to the final outcome after so many setbacks... Gladly, after much perseverance, some cursing and the grace of God, I got everything in and working!!! I even redid in one shot a new line from the carburetor all the way to the fuel pump in one piece, it took some time... The hardest part being the connection at the very bottom to the pump fitting... I must also say that the car is very smooth and has plenty of power... Whatever engine hesitation I h
    3 points
  6. Actually, it IS important to hear this. It is a very positive thing to be able to help others in the hobby. That is really what this hobby is all about as far as I am concerned. I have learned SO much here and am very glad to have joined the group. I know a lot of folks come here for help and sometimes a "thank you" evades them, but I am certain that whoever does get help here appreciates it. I know I do.
    3 points
  7. The senior assisted living facility where my father lives had a Fathers Day car show today. I took my 1929 Studebaker President. Some of the residents are over 100 years old. They really enjoyed seeing my 1929. I got to talk to many of the residents and relive with them the memories of cars older than mine that they had when they were just old used cars.
    2 points
  8. You should get to know the tutorials Reatta Owners Journal better. Lots of good information there for repairing your Reatta.... Twilight Sensor Photocell Replacement
    2 points
  9. I was thinking the other day.........(and it did hurt a little) .......... what car or car from a certain time period would you buy that had all the amenities we expect today but was simple enough to work on yourself without needing special tools and devices to reset/recalibrate, to keep it running. Sure I like a back-up camera, navigation (which they just told me I must buy updates) tire monitoring, etc but how many of them do I really need. I'm thinking automatic (w/overdrive) V8 would be nice, cruise, power windows, power seats (but who needs them on a car you only drive
    2 points
  10. Head bolts to block on an inline flathead: start from the center and move out alternatively to the front and back. 40 pounds to start, then do the process again at 60 pounds. Drive the car, get it warmed up, let it cool slightly, and check/re-torque at 60 pounds. Do this check/re-torque a couple more times during the first 250-500 miles.
    2 points
  11. *Finally!!!!!!!!! Worked on the wheels tonight at the paint shop. I had them all prepped as far as clean of all varnish on the metal and everything metal scotchbright padded. Of the six wheels, four are in as excellent condition as anyone could hope for 86 years old wheels with the hub and rim virtually pit free and smooth steel. Two others however have a fairly pitted surface requiring the surface to be glazed over and sanded then repeated a few times to get them right. It took 2 1/2 hrs to get the worst wheel done for priming! Moe started with the worst wheel first and will go over one of th
    2 points
  12. You might be guided by data in this chart.
    2 points
  13. Back to the OP's as yet unanswered questions--at least one of them, pertaining to the water jacket cover/plate: I've done these on my 1934 Buick 50 of happy memory, and on at least a dozen Pierce-Arrow 6s (Series 80) and 8s with similar sheet metal covers. The following includes lessons learned the Hard Way. The female threads in the block are fragile because they probably have been somewhat eroded. Accordingly, it is better to set them a tad loose initially, then snug after some heating and cooling cycles. Repeat and rinse. Use #2 Permatex on the capscrew threads.
    2 points
  14. Forget about changing to 12 volt, it is more trouble than it is worth and will not solve your problems. Keep it 6 volt and fix whatever is wrong with it. Properly maintained, the 6 volt system works fine.
    2 points
  15. This is definitely a great message board. Just car people trying to help each other. Good stuff.
    2 points
  16. People need to READ the factory service manual before working on this car. As I pointed out waaaay back in the OP's first thread about this car, the port fuel injection used on this 350 Olds motor is ancient. It DOES NOT use an O2 sensor. There is NO feedback on the A/F ratio. It runs open loop all the time, by design. The ECU is an ANALOG computer, not digital. I doubt there are more than a handful of mechanics left in the country who understand how this EFI works, much less are able to troubleshoot it. Also, the injectors used in this system are unique to this system. You cannot simply in
    2 points
  17. Barry Newman used to transport cars through that area. The company might still be in business and your trucker could drop it off.
    2 points
  18. Ok........guess, spend money, guess, spend money, guess, spend money........and still have the same problem. An experienced tech uses a diagnostic process to understand the problem, identify the cause, and then make a proper repair. Hooking the car up to a scanner, you can see what event actually causes the system to start running poorly. The machines have “snap shots” in them that are like a black box on an airplane, they hold hundreds of pieces of info for ten seconds before and then during the problem that sets the check engine light, it gives you a place to start looking from. A sensor cou
    2 points
  19. I actually drive my car a lot during the summer. When my wife wants me to go to the store I prefer using my 28 roadster.
    2 points
  20. testing the coolant sensor. if it reads too low will run rich. http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=107883.0
    2 points
  21. I'm glad to see the extended weather forecast calls for mild temperatures all week. with just occasional showers. Therefore those travelling without AC should be pleased. Look for my 52 Special to make the trip with a brend new set of Coker classic radials..
    2 points
  22. The black 73 GS Riviera is still available for 79,900 so act quickly. Now listed on Hemmings .com next to the black car is an amazing value at just 120,000 dollars.......a GM one off styling exercise 73 Riviera with sidepipes and a Stutz Bearcat front end .....get out your checkbooks, they won't be around tomorrow at those prices! You snooze you lose! I called them up on the 120K car and they will accept mint condition #1 1965 GS Rivieras as a down payment, so if you've got one of those to trade, act now!
    2 points
  23. Took this last night after our club meeting, beautiful night, beautiful car, so Happy my wife and I decided to get the 91
    2 points
  24. Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. A little bit more information on who you are interning with and a bit more information about the plans of the organization or business would probably be helpful in getting people to be willing to click on your survey and share information. We get these types of posts every now and then and history tells me that you will find people skeptical to respond without a bit more of an introduction by you. This group is often helpful but initially quite skeptical of vague requests from unknown new forum members.
    2 points
  25. I currently own this 1938 Model 61 built in Linden with a black paint code that I am restoring, a 1938 Model 67 built in Linden with a black paint code, a 1938 Model 41 body donor car built in Linden with a black paint code, and a 1937 Model 61 which I don't think was built in Linden, but was also produced with a black paint code. I think I see a pattern here. I like to see cars restored as they were originally built and luckily I happen to like black cars. I do find it interesting that I managed to find two 1938 Centurys, one near Boston MA and one near Altoona PA, that were both produced at
    2 points
  26. This image is listed as 1921 Essex. Details look like the tranny in the posts #1 & #5.
    1 point
  27. Has ANYONE ever seen this starter switch? I cannot find it. Ben
    1 point
  28. this truck has been sold. thanks .
    1 point
  29. Six cylinder, right hand drive, Perrot type brakes? British or European? A shot in the dark, but got to start somewhere.
    1 point
  30. I've been driving it for the last couple of weeks in 85-90 degree heat with the 20# cap and noticed that when I park it in the garage afterwards there is no coolant puddle under the car. Today I topped off the radiator with antifreeze and drove it for over an hour nonstop in 91 degree heat and there was still no overflow whatsoever when I parked it. The temp gauge showed 190-200 the whole time so it definitely wasn't overheating so my question is why would the radiator always spit out coolant with the 15# cap but it spits out nothing with the 20# cap?
    1 point
  31. Greetings All. I just bought my first Buick. She is a 49 Super 56C, aka Convertible, and she is an all original beauty. I look forward to reading about your experiences and appreciate any words of wisdom y'all can give me about finding parts. I come from a vintage British bike background so I understand the ups and downs of owning a classic or 2. Let the adventures begin!
    1 point
  32. Hi Craig, thanks for the picture, I have seen this one before on the net somewhere, got to be some parts somewhere? just got to keep on looking/asking, cheers mike. p.s that badly mangled chassis did it have the cast steel rear wheels? i'm needing one steel wheel. it may still be in some ones junkpile?
    1 point
  33. The member last month were 6877 members. We have lost 314 members since the beginning of our fiscal year (July 1, 2017). Our budget was $ 354,000 income and 348,000 expenses. Luckily we will hit our income but we won't spend as much as was projected. Our cost per member is right around $50 / year / member. We are much better financially now then we were in 2009. But Barney is correct in saying that more members are better.
    1 point
  34. Here is a picture of me becoming famous by fixing an electrical cut out problem on RY201 It is the last article written by John Utz and he was awarded the Flying Lady Magazine Award for the article. Three of us had spent considerable time chasing past remembered problems relating to the failure of the charging relay to energize. The old timers were taking an anecdotal approach while I kept begging to isolate the relay and prove it worked. They finally gave in the second day of farting around. I think it is a 1998 article, but it basically says "Don't imagine what is wrong. Dia
    1 point
  35. Installed the window frames today, and did some finishing assembly on some of the last pieces to go back on the block and head (water pump, new upper and lower rad hoses, copper manifold gaskets, new tappet cover gasket being torqued down a bit by the cover in the second photo, etc.). Aiming to light her up tomorrow morning. Anyone have any tips or advice on what to do or expect? Will have to adjust the lash tomorrow, but while I know (and hope) the engine will sound and behave differently now, not certain if there are any other hidden landmines to be avoided before I press the pe
    1 point
  36. Does this system have a cold-start enrichment device which is not turning itself off? Reason I ask is my '81 FI does, and you need it to come on to start when cold and go off after it warms up, and they often malfunction.
    1 point
  37. OK way back in the other thread I recall mention that you changed out the injectors with ones from a 'vette. The Cad injection has no feedback. It assumes stock injectors (17# ?) and if you replace with larger (say 21#) then you need to reduce the stock fuel pressure (39 psi) to about 32 psi - where I would start then tune. Back in the day I once turned a 455 Buick with cat so tight it squeaked - when they put the sniffer in for the '75 FEA, it read zilch. Checked twice against other cars. Zero. Still have the plaque.
    1 point
  38. My opinion is that the bores are rusty as Bernie says, plus your piston rings are completely frozen in their grooves with rust and they can't compress at all, thus they are way too tight at the top of the bore. It's time to tear the engine down. If the engine didn't need going through after sitting all those years it would be a miracle equal to the parting of the Red Sea. If you are bound and determined to try to solve this with the engine not being torn down, here is your best shot.............It is known as the Mexican Overhaul........drain out all the oil and fill the cr
    1 point
  39. Had the 61 deuce and a quarter out for a short drive last evening. The 401 nailhead has been rebuilt and she seems to be a happy camper now!
    1 point
  40. This is the area you have to look at. This is a Wheels Vintique wire rim. Notice how the back is flat and then there is a sharp curve towards the center? That flat surface is there to clear a disc brake caliper. I don't have a Kelsey Hayes rim to compare this to, but on the older steel rims this area is angled from the outside to the center and there won't be a clear step in the center. Hope that makes sense.
    1 point
  41. This isn't a Buick, but the beach scene brings back memories of a wild ride trying to get OFF the beach. This was taken on the beach at Chimney Bluffs State Park back when people worked Monday through Friday and public places were kind of quiet during the week. I used to have one long weekend a month and this was one. The beach was deserted. It seemed innocent enough to drive off the grassy bluff and onto the beach. Well, it was. Getting off the beach was the hard part. The drop from the grass to the beach was 2.5 to, maybe, 3' and easy to do. But I couldn't find a good p
    1 point
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