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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    This post has nothing important in it, except to thank you all for the great info, pictures, and comments you have shared over the last 10 years. This post is number 1000 for me and while I do not post as much as some of you, I really enjoy all the old car wisdom you share daily. Keep up the good work. Fleek
  2. 4 points
    Thanks to all who replied or just read my note. This is indeed a special place where we are all willing to share with each other. I am looking forward to continue to gain knowledge, and even share a little at times, in the days to come.
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    You might be guided by data in this chart.
  5. 3 points
    Buying the best possible Riv for a full resto goes double when you live outside of Nth America. You have to factor in the cost of shipping for parts. Soon shipping to Australia will be hit with a 10% goods tax. I would NEVER even consider doing a resto on a Riv if it wasn't even in good driveable condition to begin with. And when you start talking about cars that need extensive panel work due to rust you are really looking for a whole lot of work and frustration. Unless you already have the skills/time and enjoy doing it. I am currently 50% on total resto and have enjoyed almost every minute of the journey. All the parts I have bought from the USA have been of good or better quality and the advice from follow ROA members has be extremely helpful. I even had a home visit by Gordon Wolfgang! Great guy. You will see a lot of Gordon at Overland Park KS. Thank You to every one who has helped me out. Appreciative down under ROA member. TomK
  6. 3 points
    Back to the OP's as yet unanswered questions--at least one of them, pertaining to the water jacket cover/plate: I've done these on my 1934 Buick 50 of happy memory, and on at least a dozen Pierce-Arrow 6s (Series 80) and 8s with similar sheet metal covers. The following includes lessons learned the Hard Way. The female threads in the block are fragile because they probably have been somewhat eroded. Accordingly, it is better to set them a tad loose initially, then snug after some heating and cooling cycles. Repeat and rinse. Use #2 Permatex on the capscrew threads. If you're not going to undergo serious judging, use a small diameter flat washer to spread the load on the cover/plate a bit more. I don't recall whether Buick used lock washers (too long ago) but Pierce did NOT; in such a case, use a tooth washer as well as a flat washer. Initially, use a nut driver or no greater than a 1/4-inch drive ratchet applying pressure to only the ratchet head to tighten the capscrews, and make about six or more passes to complete the initial tightening. Afterthought: hope you've run a chasing (not a cutting) tap through the holes.
  7. 3 points
    My dear friends, being unfamiliar with these engines and not knowing what other changes may have been done in the past made me a little skeptical as to the final outcome after so many setbacks... Gladly, after much perseverance, some cursing and the grace of God, I got everything in and working!!! I even redid in one shot a new line from the carburetor all the way to the fuel pump in one piece, it took some time... The hardest part being the connection at the very bottom to the pump fitting... I must also say that the car is very smooth and has plenty of power... Whatever engine hesitation I had before I say it is gone now... Thank you all for your patience and input. Much appreciated.
  8. 3 points
    Actually, it IS important to hear this. It is a very positive thing to be able to help others in the hobby. That is really what this hobby is all about as far as I am concerned. I have learned SO much here and am very glad to have joined the group. I know a lot of folks come here for help and sometimes a "thank you" evades them, but I am certain that whoever does get help here appreciates it. I know I do.
  9. 2 points
    The senior assisted living facility where my father lives had a Fathers Day car show today. I took my 1929 Studebaker President. Some of the residents are over 100 years old. They really enjoyed seeing my 1929. I got to talk to many of the residents and relive with them the memories of cars older than mine that they had when they were just old used cars.
  10. 2 points
    You should get to know the tutorials Reatta Owners Journal better. Lots of good information there for repairing your Reatta.... Twilight Sensor Photocell Replacement
  11. 2 points
    I was thinking the other day.........(and it did hurt a little) .......... what car or car from a certain time period would you buy that had all the amenities we expect today but was simple enough to work on yourself without needing special tools and devices to reset/recalibrate, to keep it running. Sure I like a back-up camera, navigation (which they just told me I must buy updates) tire monitoring, etc but how many of them do I really need. I'm thinking automatic (w/overdrive) V8 would be nice, cruise, power windows, power seats (but who needs them on a car you only drive) and if it only gets 19-20 mpg, I can make up the difference is saving on expensive computers, and dealer service.
  12. 2 points
    Head bolts to block on an inline flathead: start from the center and move out alternatively to the front and back. 40 pounds to start, then do the process again at 60 pounds. Drive the car, get it warmed up, let it cool slightly, and check/re-torque at 60 pounds. Do this check/re-torque a couple more times during the first 250-500 miles.
  13. 2 points
    *Finally!!!!!!!!! Worked on the wheels tonight at the paint shop. I had them all prepped as far as clean of all varnish on the metal and everything metal scotchbright padded. Of the six wheels, four are in as excellent condition as anyone could hope for 86 years old wheels with the hub and rim virtually pit free and smooth steel. Two others however have a fairly pitted surface requiring the surface to be glazed over and sanded then repeated a few times to get them right. It took 2 1/2 hrs to get the worst wheel done for priming! Moe started with the worst wheel first and will go over one of the best wheels tomorrow so he’ll be two wheels ahead of me. I’ll be masking them on Monday to get the ready to shoot the gray urethane primer. Once all six are primed they’ll all be wet sanded and prepped for final color painting. Between the stripping of the original finish, sand blasting of the metal, bleaching of the wood, varnishing of the wood, prepping of the metal, masking, priming, wet sanding, final painting, and pin-striping, it would not surprise me if each wheel will have 40-60 hours of work into them! The amount of work is just incredible for a single wheel if you want to do them right. The two wheels requiring the most work will be my spares and the four that are like new will be my service wheels. While any pits and marks from damage have been filled, any factory seam and forming lines have been left. Leaving those original areas also makes for even more tedious finger sanding! You can see the electro-weld line across the rim at about 2:30 in the bottom picture. This weld is prominent in all six wheels and has to be visible in the finished wheel.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Forget about changing to 12 volt, it is more trouble than it is worth and will not solve your problems. Keep it 6 volt and fix whatever is wrong with it. Properly maintained, the 6 volt system works fine.
  16. 2 points
    This is definitely a great message board. Just car people trying to help each other. Good stuff.
  17. 2 points
    People need to READ the factory service manual before working on this car. As I pointed out waaaay back in the OP's first thread about this car, the port fuel injection used on this 350 Olds motor is ancient. It DOES NOT use an O2 sensor. There is NO feedback on the A/F ratio. It runs open loop all the time, by design. The ECU is an ANALOG computer, not digital. I doubt there are more than a handful of mechanics left in the country who understand how this EFI works, much less are able to troubleshoot it. Also, the injectors used in this system are unique to this system. You cannot simply install "Vette" injectors - they do not fit in the holes in the manifold.
  18. 2 points
    Barry Newman used to transport cars through that area. The company might still be in business and your trucker could drop it off.
  19. 2 points
    Ok........guess, spend money, guess, spend money, guess, spend money........and still have the same problem. An experienced tech uses a diagnostic process to understand the problem, identify the cause, and then make a proper repair. Hooking the car up to a scanner, you can see what event actually causes the system to start running poorly. The machines have “snap shots” in them that are like a black box on an airplane, they hold hundreds of pieces of info for ten seconds before and then during the problem that sets the check engine light, it gives you a place to start looking from. A sensor could be bad, as wall as the wiring, power, resistance to ground, the car could switch to open loop(choke), have a bad purge valve solenoid that opens up a vacuum leak, there are hundreds and even possibly a thousand things to look at and check. Guessing is a fools errand, professionals diagnose issues, and repair them. I have been doing this for a LONG time and am good at it. Truth is it’s probably not too difficult to repair, you just need to find the right guy with the correct skill set. Most likely the car is running poorly because the computer it telling to to...........think about that one for a while........if the computer imputs and peramiters are not correct, the output can’t be correct. Junk in, junk out. Example............ Toyota pick up has no headlights.......... customer installed two new bulbs.......... still no lights........high or low beam......... bulbs have battery voltage going to the hot side of the socket......... bulbs have a good ground going to the socket.............. thus we have 12 volts into the bulb........ we have a good ground............ and NO lights............ the truck was in five shops that couldn’t fix it, and I was able to determine the problem in less than thirty seconds, from proper education and electrical theory..........having never seen this issue before, I was able to repair it easily from possessing a correct skill set in electrical theory and proper diagnostic procedures...............now anyone want to “guess” what was wrong? Or for that matter use proper diagnostic techniques to tell me what was wrong? Ed PS: you have all the correct information to properly identify the problem, and the answer is obvious if you understand electrical systems. It is stunningly easy........and my best people in my shop couldn’t figure it out, I gave it to four “A” techs and they were stumped.
  20. 2 points
    I actually drive my car a lot during the summer. When my wife wants me to go to the store I prefer using my 28 roadster.
  21. 2 points
    testing the coolant sensor. if it reads too low will run rich. http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=107883.0
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    I'm glad to see the extended weather forecast calls for mild temperatures all week. with just occasional showers. Therefore those travelling without AC should be pleased. Look for my 52 Special to make the trip with a brend new set of Coker classic radials..
  24. 2 points
    The black 73 GS Riviera is still available for 79,900 so act quickly. Now listed on Hemmings .com next to the black car is an amazing value at just 120,000 dollars.......a GM one off styling exercise 73 Riviera with sidepipes and a Stutz Bearcat front end .....get out your checkbooks, they won't be around tomorrow at those prices! You snooze you lose! I called them up on the 120K car and they will accept mint condition #1 1965 GS Rivieras as a down payment, so if you've got one of those to trade, act now!
  25. 2 points
    Took this last night after our club meeting, beautiful night, beautiful car, so Happy my wife and I decided to get the 91
  26. 2 points
    Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. A little bit more information on who you are interning with and a bit more information about the plans of the organization or business would probably be helpful in getting people to be willing to click on your survey and share information. We get these types of posts every now and then and history tells me that you will find people skeptical to respond without a bit more of an introduction by you. This group is often helpful but initially quite skeptical of vague requests from unknown new forum members.
  27. 2 points
    I currently own this 1938 Model 61 built in Linden with a black paint code that I am restoring, a 1938 Model 67 built in Linden with a black paint code, a 1938 Model 41 body donor car built in Linden with a black paint code, and a 1937 Model 61 which I don't think was built in Linden, but was also produced with a black paint code. I think I see a pattern here. I like to see cars restored as they were originally built and luckily I happen to like black cars. I do find it interesting that I managed to find two 1938 Centurys, one near Boston MA and one near Altoona PA, that were both produced at the same plant with the same Paint Code 515 black paint and with the same trim code 409 Tan Bedford Cord.
  28. 1 point
    Appreciate finding this group - new to brass cars, uncovered a 1911 Buick, model 26 roadster – got it in running condition. Having the magneto remagnitized due to starting only through a slight tow. What should the plug gaps be size wise? Also not sure on this 4 cylinder how you know the oil level is full? I do not have a oil tank, just two filler tubes, one per jug, one side petcock on the motor and a plug at the timing cover. Thanks. Dr. Brian, Watseka, IL
  29. 1 point
    There is soil under it on top of another chassis etc. It has been scooped up with a digger or FEL and put in a heap with the chassis, not connected to any of them. Distributor drive on right front with drive shaft along RHS - e.g. water pump, starter, generator? Very wide Morse chain at front for timing drive. Gear lever lock.
  30. 1 point
    That should get a lot of "thumbs up" along the way
  31. 1 point
    I've been driving it for the last couple of weeks in 85-90 degree heat with the 20# cap and noticed that when I park it in the garage afterwards there is no coolant puddle under the car. Today I topped off the radiator with antifreeze and drove it for over an hour nonstop in 91 degree heat and there was still no overflow whatsoever when I parked it. The temp gauge showed 190-200 the whole time so it definitely wasn't overheating so my question is why would the radiator always spit out coolant with the 15# cap but it spits out nothing with the 20# cap?
  32. 1 point
    2 7/8 inch. They are still running after this many days.
  33. 1 point
    Here is the explanation from the book, Seventy Years of Buick, by George Dammann: "When the [1949] Roadmaster Riviera [2-door hardtop] was first introduced, it featured a straight chrome bar as side trim. Then, when production really got rolling in June, the cars started coming out with the chromed sweep-spear trim...all subsequent models carried the new trim bars." The cars are the same model, with the minor difference of the side trim.
  34. 1 point
    Here is a picture of me becoming famous by fixing an electrical cut out problem on RY201 It is the last article written by John Utz and he was awarded the Flying Lady Magazine Award for the article. Three of us had spent considerable time chasing past remembered problems relating to the failure of the charging relay to energize. The old timers were taking an anecdotal approach while I kept begging to isolate the relay and prove it worked. They finally gave in the second day of farting around. I think it is a 1998 article, but it basically says "Don't imagine what is wrong. Diagnose with proper test equipment." Even a new car with electronic equipment has has code written on variable inputs, digitized to equal an output. Find the code and read it. If you can't there are two German programmers who used to work for VW who could surely fix it. One thing about Chrysler, at one point each dealership had an monthly allotment for warranty work. When it was exceeded corporate funding was not available. Service departments were encouraged to push warranty work away. That practice may still be in place. Show up early in the month. I have a few meters but usually use an old Triplett analog one. Its not smarter than me so I don't get in trouble so much. I guess I would be called a pneumatic controls tech who realized all the pneumatic devices had an electrical counterpart. When was that, 1982.... Bernie
  35. 1 point
    Love2Wrench- your close...........but remember I said you already had everything you need to answer the problem. Why replace the switch? You can test it and determine if it is functioning. The switch was good. Interestingly the problem in the Toyota was caused by a unskilled service technician years before.........it took several things over time to cause the problem........but don’t let any of this information throw you off the correct track you were on........again scientific method is the answer, as it always is. A lifetime of experience often causes us to go off in the wrong direction. The answer is incredibly simple, so simple almost no one in a modern repair garage will look for it, because experience sends them in the wrong direction. It’s always the fundamentals that kick us in the ass. PS- to be fair, I had to look up the exact definition of the technical term you used and review it again, as I am not an electrical engineer. You have the correct answer. I would express it in a less sophisticated and probably an incorrect way. But remember I was taught by master technicians for automobile repair, not in a lab at an engineering school. I want to leave the example up for a while to let others see it and learn from it. Ohm’s Law is the answer, dielectric was the problem. ? You can wrench on my cars anytime! ???
  36. 1 point
    Voltage is potential, current is realization of that potential. If you have the potential but don't have the "flow" then you have an open circuit. We would create this situation using a dielectric in lab. I'm not sure how that happened in the Toyota but I am curious. - maybe the headlight switch is acting like a dielectric.. I'd try replacing the switch.
  37. 1 point
    It's Medford cruise week, so I have started to see some shiny cars around here. Here is a 1940 Ford coupe that rumbled by us....the fist photo is when he came up behind us in my mirror....
  38. 1 point
    I am now going to make the threaded connection between the exhaust tubing and the manifold. This will be similar to the water connections but much larger and, of course, it has to be made of steel. I think this is A36 - a mild structural steel. It is tougher to machine than the high lead stuff I usually use but these parts will have to be welded and that material doesn't weld well. Here it is bored out to 2". The finished hole will be 2-1/4 but I've no good way to hold the piece so I'll have to finish bore it as the last step. Turned to the major diameter of the threaded portion.
  39. 1 point
    https://www.teambuick.com/reference/engine_torque.php
  40. 1 point
    Looks like 1931-33 Studebaker Commander, to me. Here is a 1933...
  41. 1 point
    Had the 61 deuce and a quarter out for a short drive last evening. The 401 nailhead has been rebuilt and she seems to be a happy camper now!
  42. 1 point
    I hear the average lawyer is a little taller since Viagra became available.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    The guys at Ford Barn need to see that. Unusual for sure. FAA approved?
  45. 1 point
    So after some research, this seems to be a common issue on these cars. The fix is replacement of the brake light switch and then configuring it with a scan tool. $ 85 to do this in the 100 degree heat up under the dashboard on your back. That and not having to correct scan tool made it easy for me to spend the $85.
  46. 1 point
    My good RC plane buddy came over Friday with his high coverage air brush and a mixture of gloss black epoxy enamel and harder. After wiping down my repaired steering wheel and horn button, he shot both with a few coats of the black. The paint used is the same paint we use on our nitromethane powered models and not only is it a hard wearing paint, but it’s resistant to most solvents making it the ideal paint for the steering wheel. I installed the wheel on my spare spider (the good one is at the paint shop), installed the chromed center cup, horn button contacts, and the horn button to test the assembly for full ground. All worked properly. One more step done. Wheel will now come off and be put away until final assembly.
  47. 1 point
    My dash pad was in good shape, but it did not match the newly installed upholstery. The upholsterer stained the package tray to match as well as the dash pad to match the new leather option for a 63 Riv. At first I was reluctant to use a stain thinking the stain would fade. I keep the car garaged 24/7 unlessI drive the car about 700 miles a year. Here is a picture of the dash stained.