Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    2002 to 2015...what a long, strange trip its been.
  2. 3 points
    Here is one of those adaptors that Willis mentioned
  3. 2 points
    Does your 37 have the 4.44 gears? An overdrive slows the engine rpm down but HAS to raise the ring and pinion rpm way faster to achieve that pleasant 60 or 65mph cruising. speed. Before I went to shallower gears I switched to Torco 85-140 racing gear oil and lowered then temp a bunch. A downer is It WILL find any potential leak spots.
  4. 2 points
    Today, Friday, we drove out to join a vintage touring group that we are a member of. This is for cars built in 1942, or earlier. This was a difficult choice, as we are only 4 weeks away from our move, and there is still lots to do, but it will be hard to tour here, as it will be over 3 hours away, that's in good conditions, from our new home, so we decided to do this tour. Traffic is always a problem on Friday afternoons, plus some construction, so it took us about 2 1/2 hours to go the 80 miles to our hosts place for a BBQ supper. Here are a couple of pictures of the line of some of the cars. We will be touring all day tomorrow, and a bit Sunday morning. Keith
  5. 2 points
    I thought up this addition to the intake manifold... As I was assembling it I realized that, since the tubes are round, orienting the carburetor flange so that it was always parallel to the ground could be a problem and that, in order to keep the float level, this was very important. I got a wider piece of 1/8" brass sheet and made a plate the width of the flange that will bolt to the engine sub-frame in the same position as the temporary one shown above. This also serves to support the long, cantilevered end of the manifold so that it shouldn't be affected by the weight of the carburetor. Until I get the bronze castings for the replacement intake flanges I can't proceed on this but it is at the point where I can work on the exhaust manifold without worrying if I'm putting two parts in the same space. Because the critical element of the exhaust is the location of the down-pipe from the manifold, I'm starting there. The first step was making a really robust clamp that will hold the down-pipe in place, both to allow me to work on the manifold itself and, when it is done, support the manifold. I took the large steel ring I'd made earlier and milled a flat on one side. This will be the back of the clamp and gives me a reference surface for the next machining operatons. I then used my antique B&S height gauge to scribe a line precisely through the center of the hole... it is a 2" hole although the finished size will be 2-1/4". Using the flat as a reference point, I milled two 1/2" holes for screws and center drilled them. With that done, I moved over to the drill press and drilled the holes through. I forget the size but it's the correct size to be threaded 5/16-18. The ring was then cut into two halves with a slitting saw - the first time I've successfully slit steel. It worked pretty well. Of course, the holes line up perfectly because they were drilled together. The next step was to tap the holes for the back half of the clamp. The flat I milled gave me the needed reference surface to get these perfectly straight. Then the front half of the cap was drilled 1/64 over 5/16 and counterbored to accept the screw heads. I was now able to reattach the parts but, because of the material removed by the saw, the ID and OD are no longer round. To fix this, I set it up in the mill and bored the center to the finished size. Now that the center is round, I'll do the outside but I'd forgotten I don't have the proper expanding arbor so I finished the day starting on a "quickie" tool to hold the ring while I turn it. I also have to fix that hole I drilled in the bottom. I should have followed my own advice and quit when I was tired... I drilled the wrong size hole and didn't center it properly. I've thought of a way to fix it but, like so many things, it will take a little extra work.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    A very fine mist from a spray bottle with water in it works very good for checking cap and wires.
  8. 2 points
    Bloo, this is a late-1970s Craftsman inductive timing light with a plastic body. I've had issues with the metal-bodied light on older cars. When the inductive pickup was attached just above the cap towers (to see if there was a steady spark being sent to the plugs), the idle faltered--not a dead short of that cylinder, and an irregular strobe resulted. This was a hotel parking lot diagnosis on a 5-day tour based out of Sequim (generally your neck of the woods). The intermittent short effect was minimal at the far end of the wires near the plugs, BUT this was a no-load test. The owner is attending to replacing the plug wires before the Pierce-Arrow Society annual meet in Rohnert Park CA next month. This light does NOT have dialback. I'd used it on my 1930 roadster a week before in the same manner while diagnosing an occasional miss at idle. In that case, one spark plug was at fault. The 1919 Pierce in question had recently been acquired by a WA collector from a static collection, and the plug wires were decades old, smaller than 7 mm, and although not visibly broken were dried out in their high-heat location below the exhaust manifold. I get a lot of use out of about three sealed 12V batteries which were designed as backup batteries for home alarms and for gate openers. I run an 11-year old Garmin GPS off such a battery, connected by a Radio Shack cigar lighter intended to be connected directly to a 12V battery. I cut off the alligator clips and soldered on female push-on connectors to fit the male push-on connectors on the battery. The battery rides on the floor in a plastic Folger's coffee can. This set-up is easily moved from car to car, and feeds the GPS for about five days without a recharge. I prefer using my Sun 820 machine but (1) its timing light is not inductive, and (2) it's anything but portable.
  9. 2 points
    I had big plans also to build a new home with attached garage when I retired but things just did not work out. The wife and I are at a stand off at the present time. I was hoping to make the kitchen smaller by eliminating the double sink to save on the floor space. There is just no reasoning with her.
  10. 2 points
    My 1923 Model 50 Seven Passenger Sedan.
  11. 1 point
    Hi, probably a long shot but looking for mainly mechanical parts for two 1918 series two Liberty truck restorations, rad/engine gearbox/sheetmetal, any leads appreciated, and more or less any condition would be considered, thanks in advance, mike Cameron.
  12. 1 point
    All fixed! Just have to get the a.c. fixed and the car smogged the guy I took it to did a great job. I also had him replace all of the accessories as well.
  13. 1 point
    I recall reading in an old Floyd Clymer book that Ford made just over 300,000 model T's in 1915, and only twice that many are still registered.
  14. 1 point
    I have just replaced the inner and outer seals on my 1930 Dodge Brothers 8. The inner seals were found by size. They are NAK brand if I remember rightly and the part number is the size. Yours may be the same - do they have the same part number? The outer seals only keep the grease in, not diff oil and I replaced them too. The old leather seals were pulled out of the housing and a modern seal pressed in. The inner seal is a modern lip seal too. The reason my seals were shot is because the bearings were shot and allowed axle lateral movement the seals are not designed to deal with. Yours is likely to be like that too. Have you read Taylormade's topic on Daphne? Read the bit about his rear axle reburbishment and learn from that. I expect yours will be pretty similar. When the service men test the brakes on my 1930 Dodge Brothers, on the rollers, they always express surprise at how good the brakes are. The are in good adjustment and have fresh fluid. Remember there are two adjustments with our brakes, the fixed anchors and the upper shoe adjustment. This is discussed in various places on these fora, including in Daphne's story.
  15. 1 point
    I know that '54 was especially pleasing to Mr. Earl. In fact, I am sure he would have liked to drive it to Denver. And the issue is really spectacular. Thanks to all. John
  16. 1 point
    Hoarding makes some people feel secure I guess. What can be said, if it works for them… The trucks in the bushes (from the links) are really nice.
  17. 1 point
    auction in the netherlands - lincolns start around catalog # 240 - just for fun http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25077/
  18. 1 point
    * * Greg, what a great gesture! I try to leave everyone with a smile, and like you I thank people for the good work that they do. We all have a bad day every once in a while. A pat on the back goes a long ways! Great job!
  19. 1 point
    After some bad luck and now good luck, yesterday I got the word that I would be able to go to Denver. Nancy has not attended the last 2 national meets because she lacks the stamina to get around, up & down, and she is sloooooow. I was able to make part of Allentown then I drove to Brookfield last year but a schedule conflict was keeping me from going to Denver. That problem has gone away and I will probably leave central Texas Monday morning and make the 900 miles in two days. I contacted Roy Faries so he could forward to the proper people that I would be there to help judge. Believe this is my 18 or 19th straight National. Looking forward to seeing old friends and some different Buicks
  20. 1 point
    Sears problems started long before the merger with Kmart. When the sold off Discover card, Allstate insurance, their mortgage division (now PNC mortgage) and Dean Witter (now part of Morgan Stanley) was the beginning of the end. The management thought it would be great to sell the money makers and concentrate on the loosing side of business. What not to do will be part of business school text books for years to come.
  21. 1 point
    Too hot to deal with now with temperatures starting at 80*f in the morning and spiking to 105 later all with dew point in the mid 70's.(too hot too soon). Trying to get 2 cars ready for a trip to Colorado (driver plus a backup if issues late).
  22. 1 point
    Too bad you can't bench test it with a pressure differential and flow across the plates. Tom Toal, the famous GM carburetor engineer, told me carburation it not a science. It is an art. As an artist, I would bush the shaft. What has been lubricating that shaft for the last 60 years? Dusty unfiltered air? Ben will tell you why 4005 is a velocity constant. Bernie
  23. 1 point
    Is the throttle linkage holding it open? Dumb question, but if it's not binding on the bench, it could be that.
  24. 1 point
    I checked the carb on my other 3 cars and the linkage is the same. The linkage is free when in the high idle situation. Lateral pressure to the shaft will not free it...only rotating the shaft (or turning the engine off). And I can't duplicate any binding on the bench. Right now I am looking for a throttle body section.
  25. 1 point
    Its mine, Pete. 65 Wildcat Custom, Burgundy w/black bucket interior. Trunk is rusty, chrome was taken off and the holes filled. It had a 65 Lesabre grill(replaced). The original 4-speed came in the trunk! I have great plans for this car. I have a LX engine to replace the KW in it, i'll rebuild the original transmission and rear end (3.42 posi), redo the body and interior. The thing is it runs and drives pretty well now and I am working on a automatic Wildcat Custom Coupe, Red/black buckets, console with tach, 66 engine with quadrajet and cam.<BR>It will be a while till i'm done with that Texas car, but I enjoy it the way it is now. Havin' Fun!,