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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/28/2018 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    It looks like the spider is installed backwards. If it was flipped, your grease gun would fit.
  2. 4 points
    The parts car has proved to be even more useful than I had imagined. For every part I removed that I needed it seemed that part was connected to two others that I didn't have either. I've removed everything I need for now and will keep it as is to serve as a guide during assembly. I'm getting ready to do that assembly right now! I removed the body tub from the frame and set the frame up outside. I pulled the Clogmaster 3000 out of deep storage, bought 500 lbs of blast media and went to work. The Clogmaster was in rare form... nary a clog the whole time and it produced a wonderful stream of media. I blasted the frame twice and was done in about 3 hours. I have no explanation for its performance. It worked wonderfully and acted as if it were a piece of professional equipment. I've got some pretty good tools in my shop now so maybe it got used to hanging out with them and decided to up its game.
  3. 3 points
    Went to the good guy show now at Home Depot running errands. Here's a couple pics from the show the 54 wagon is my favorite unfortunately it had a small block Chevy in it. Looks like aqua zephyr had buick competition this year.
  4. 3 points
    Doug - Awesome mid-century neighborhood! Did you happen to live down the street from the Brady's...?
  5. 3 points
    The copper coil is placed against the heater core. There is a clip that holds it in place.
  6. 3 points
    Got the doors and fenders in primer. I'm really getting tired of sanding ! Got the doors and the fenders on. Everything is going together pretty well for just a initial test fit. It looks like a car again for now.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Finally finish rockers both sides. Started with left doors. We are going to fabricate door skin panels from side molding down and door bottoms. Previously repaired with fiberglass and Bondo
  9. 2 points
    Unless the king pins are damaged and not just worn, you should only need to replace the bushings which can be found just about anywhere. Measure the OD of the pins and buy bushings slightly undersized so you can ream the bushings to fit the pins.
  10. 2 points
    The 1964 Worlds' Fair NY plate on my '64 GP came with the car, so I was able to transfer it to my registration. The nice thing about that plate is that it was used in '64 & '65 (with a '65 endorsement sticker) only and it was a rear plate only -- unlike the surrounding years. That allows me to run my "GRRRRRR" plate on the front!
  11. 2 points
    When I was little my grand fathers salvage yard was in my back yard rows of 1929 31 Fords , Indians, 69 Camaro, T birds with the port holes. and lots of Studebaker-- heaven. My last trip to kalispell Montana four grate days of shopping at these nice air conditioned, open air malls. AKA ( junk yard)
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
    Contrary to what KongaMan has said, I find few cars offered for "pennies on n the dollar", I find many are trying to get more than market value for a variety of reasons (rather because granddad fold the what is s worth to him or watching too many TV auctions. May be just the area where I reside. Otherwise, I would have a bunch more cars, I fear. John
  14. 2 points
    Fun thread... apparently our toys come in ALL sizes...) This 1:25 scale '65 Riv was built and hand painted back in the early 1980's shortly after I purchased my 1:1 1964 Riv in Wedgewood blue (that I still own). Colour came close, but a tad too dark. At the time, model manufacturers were only producing the '65 Riv' scale models and they are still readily available. For the 1963, and 64 years, these models were only available in '63/64. They can be still be found on eBay, some built, some in original boxes, some $$$, and although I've since acquired a handful of the original '64 scale models, I've not got around to re-creating the 1:1 aside from this one... Although I built models as a kid, that fad faded long ago until about 10-12 years ago when my son got to be the age that he was interested in building them, so of course, I got involved. A couple of our Riv projects... Another '65... '66... (the red thing on the steering wheel is a homemade anti-theft club...) I've also collected a number of first gen Riv's in various scales, some plastic, metal, a couple small slot car racers... When I find the time, I'll take a few photos of some of those...
  15. 2 points
    It is interesting that this paragraph contains unsubstantiated claims that are untrue: Penrite, for example, says of its long life antifreeze " 8 Year 500,000 KM Red Coolant provides extended long-term protection against rust and corrosion for all materials used in the engine and in the cooling system construction. It protects cast iron, aluminium, copper and solder alloys as well as the hoses, seals and plastics. It is especially effective in all aluminium engines that are under load or used in extreme hot and cold climates. " This is a SiOAT anti-freeze. In addition, I don't have coolant around my cam bearings and nor do you. Note it also is safe with hoses, seals and plastics - silicon is not excluded. In fact there are no exclusions. The claim about silicon may arise from a test done by Cummins a number of years ago. They claimed OAT was degrading the silicon seals (around liners?) after 80,000 to 100,000 miles. There was also the case of DexCool vs GM in the '80s - see the Wikipedia article about anti-freeze. We have discussed this here before where I have challenged these broad, general, unsubstantiated claims. Show me the evidence, not someone writing in a forum or journal. In looking this up, I found the same claims in articles about anti-freeze for Model A (word for word!) and other vehicles. This is what I wrote in a previous posting: The ONLY evidence I have been able to find about Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and Hybrid OAT (HOAT) causing problems was with coolants containing 2-EHA as an anti-corrosive agent. Unfortunately this chemical is also a plasticiser and has an affinity for nylon 6,6 and silicon rubber. It apparently damaged intake manifold gaskets in some GM models and some Rolls Royce engines. My conclusion is there is no problem with almost any antifreeze-anticorrosive additive in our old engines because we have no nylon or silicon rubber as they were built. If you have used modern seals including silicon rubber or nylon, then a bit more investigation is necessary. Modern engines are much more difficult to protect than old because they include aluminium (top of the galvanic scale) and magnesium (above Al and zinc at the top of the galvanic series) so the inhibitors are pretty good. I asked the Penrite Tech. Rep about it. The advice is to not mix OAT with HOAT or IAT antifreezes, particularly silicate-free OAT antifreezes. Mixing anti-corrosion packages can lead to loss of corrosion protection. He didn't mention the problem with attacking gaskets etc.. Basically, he said we don't need the recent OAT antifreeze and recommended their 7-year AFAB (anti-freeze anti-boil), a HOAT product. The basis of it is Glysantin from BASF.
  16. 2 points
    I remember that guy. Five or six pages of people trying to help him and it was always just not quite perfect enough or cheap enough or the wrong color or whatever. That's why I don't help people find cars. I get asked all the time, but after dealing with one guy for about four years who wanted a 1941 Cadillac, I gave up. I showed him more than 40 cars and they were always the wrong color, wrong interior, wrong price, not perfect enough, too perfect, too far away, whatever. No more wasting time like that. Sorry for the distraction--this looks like a good buy and an easy job to finish to end up with one of the most desirable of all Model As. Rare body styles are still very much in demand.
  17. 1 point
    Greetings All. I just bought my first Buick. She is a 49 Super 56C, aka Convertible, and she is an all original beauty. I look forward to reading about your experiences and appreciate any words of wisdom y'all can give me about finding parts. I come from a vintage British bike background so I understand the ups and downs of owning a classic or 2. Let the adventures begin!
  18. 1 point
    upstairs http://forums.aaca.org/forum/153-junkyards/
  19. 1 point
    Jack, They were originally black. Red hoses are usually a smaller diameter too on brass era cars.
  20. 1 point
    Do whatever you can to experience driving as many cars as you can. The first generation cars are small compared to the later models. They are tight in the driver's seat for elbow room. I had a '68 and a '66 before I bought my '64. The '64 is pretty close to Skylark size inside. The chassis on the '72 is a whole lot different with a perimeter frame instead of an X-frame. Depending on how you are going to lift it for home garage service is a consideration overlooked sometimes. If a '72 is your dream car, I would say stick with that model until you find the right one. Short term ownership is not common with most Riviera, or Buick in general, purchases. Stick with first choice. Buying exactly what you want works much better than second choice. Take the time to look at some rough ones. Seeing the spots that go bad from neglect will give you pointers of where to look when the shiny one seems to smell like fresh paint. These are 40 to 50 year old cars. Buying one ain't the smartest thing you can do with your money. Figure the purchase price as the entry fee. If you think you might get some heat at the kitchen table for a few trips "back to the well" at $500 to $1,000 a whack, start setting a little aside while you are shopping to make those inevitable repairs less of an impact. A tin can with a few 100's in the garage never hurts, just to ease the tension. Your choice is good, though, they are inherently good cars. Bernie
  21. 1 point
    Sebastian, do yourself a favour and just replace the inferior original unit with a better example of vacuum manifold !
  22. 1 point
    (And the failures were caused by? Just curious, but not as curious as the placement of those business establishments).
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Car #1 The sticker on the air cleaner probably says Wildcat 445 and not Wildcat 455. This indicates that the engine has 445 lb-ft of torque, making the engine a 401 c.i. nailhead rather than the Wildcat 465 or Super Wildcat which both had 465 lb-ft of torque and were 425 c.i. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION 03D ST 65-46667 FB 161752 BODY TR 677 R1 * PAINT W-2LR-5KW BODY BY FISHER 03D = body build date = March (03) 1965, fourth week (D) ST = style 65 = 1965 model year 46667 = Fisher body style number 4 = Buick 66 = Wildcat Custom 67 = 2-door convertible FB = body built at Flint, MI 161752 = sequential body number, no relation to VIN TR = trim Trim 677 = Red Vinyl with Bucket-Type Front Seats, available on style 46667 Paint code R = solid Flame Red 1 = White convertible top * = unknown, but only found on 1962-1966 tags from Flint, MI built cars Option codes: Group 1 W = Tinted windshield Group 2 L = 4-spd manual transmission R = Rear seat speaker Group 5 K = Door Edge Guards W = Seat Belts With Retractor Car #2 GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION 04A ST 65-44469 KAN 3430 BODY TR 131 C-C PAINT E 2KXPR 3H 4F 5W BODY BY FISHER 04A = body build date = April (04) 1965, first week (A) ST = style 65 = 1965 model year 44469 = Fisher body style number 4 = Buick 44 = Skylark V8 69 = 4-door thin pillar sedan KAN = body built at Kansas City, MO 3430 = sequential body number TR = trim Trim 131 = Blue Cloth and Vinyl, available on styles 44337, 44369, 44437, 44469 Paint code CC = solid Arctic White Option codes: Group 1 E = Tinted glass (all windows) Group 2 K = Air Conditioner X = ST-300 auto trans P = Back-up Lights R = Rear seat speaker Group 3 H = Belt reveal, wheelhouse opening molding Group 4 F = Remote controlled outside driver's mirror Group 5 W = Seat Belts With Retractor Car #3 GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION 01C ST 65-44437 FB 89968 BODY TR 138 CC * PAINT W-2XP-3H-4F-5W BODY BY FISHER 01C = body build date = January (01) 1965, third week (C) ST = style 65 = 1965 model year 44437 = Fisher body style number 4 = Buick 44 = Skylark V8 37 = 2-door hardtop sport coupe FB = body built at Flint, MI 89968 = sequential body number, no relation to VIN TR = trim Trim 138 = Black Cloth and Vinyl, available on styles 44337, 44369, 44437, 44469 Paint code CC = solid Arctic White * = unknown, but only found on 1962-1966 tags from Flint, MI built cars Option codes: Group 1 W = Tinted windshield Group 2 X = ST-300 auto trans P = Back-up Lights Group 3 H = Belt reveal, wheelhouse opening molding Group 4 F = Remote controlled outside driver's mirror Group 5 W = Seat Belts With Retractor
  25. 1 point
    I didn't try to knock it apart. Probably been on there since 1948 or so.
  26. 1 point
    Let me say that I agreed with the govt's assessment that GM was too big to allow to fail. This is not based on politics, or ideology, it is strictly based on economics. GM took the govt loans, paid their obligation early, and moved on. Ford got universal kudos for not needing to accept the "bailout," but what did it really cost them. While they were able to secure loans on their own, to stay the course they also were forced to sell Jaguar/Landrover to Tata motors. Alan Mullally, company president, stated that it was time to return to their own luxury marque Lincoln. The selling price was, I believe, around two Billion dollars. This was after Ford had sunk millions into the Coventry plant, to both modernize it, and to attack the quality flaws that had become implicit with the marque. So how did that work out for Ford, not very well. Tata returned management to Coventry, and returned the company to profitability. Enough profit, in fact, to cover all of the purchase price in several years. Ford's emphasis on Lincoln fell flat. While the Towncar served the company well domestically, there was no international marque recognition. By giving up on their only global, luxury marque was a huge mistake. We live in a world economy, and Ford chose not to play. Personally I think that Ford made another huge mistake, when the chose to drop the full framed, rear wheeled drive, Crown Victoria based, line of cars. They had been the mainstay for police, taxi and limousine service for two decades. None of their offerings have made them a player in any of these markets.
  27. 1 point
    Haven’t been able to work much on the car for the past week, lots of yard work cleaning up after this winters storms. Cutting up downed trees, burning the brush, edging beds, the driveway, and spreading 8 yards of mulch took much of the past weeks spare time. Got to spend some time on the car today. Fitted the rechromed windshield frame to the cowl to test fit everything before the body gets painted. In some areas I had to sand away some chrome, copper, nickel where it was too thick. The insides of the windshield posts where they rotate on the lower frame and the small tab on the top of each post where it slides into the top header over the glass were the areas needing all the sanding and fitting. Steele rubber products sells a two piece windshield frame to cowl seal that fits a few different GM Cabriolet models including Cadillac, Chevy, pontiac, and Olds. Because it fits many models it needed to be trimmed to fit my DCR and I also got that done today. I also installed my latch strikers on the new pillars along with the door bumpers. Now the doors are closing and latching as they should. Will start working on the rumble seat wood to fit it to the lid better. All these things need to be done so I might as well get them done now while waiting for the body to go to paint. At least I can’t scratch any paint!
  28. 1 point
    Antifreeze left in too long runs out of its additives, and turns acidic. Years ago, many drivers could not be convinced to ever change coolant unless it looked really rusty or something. These were the same people who had a lot of radiator failures, rusted out freeze plugs, heater core failures, and so on. You could recognize a car like this because the coolant would be trying to eat it's way to the outside. There would be corrosion, usually white, slowly coming out from under every hose, the thermostat gasket, and so on. The radiator would usually be seeping around the tubes. There was no modern coolant yet to blame. From my point of view, the recommendation to leave it in 5 years is the problem. I still use "modern" coolant, much to the horror of some of my car guy friends. I change it often. I have only been doing it 30 years. We really should get back to the OP's question, as this is getting a bit off-topic. The newest car he mentioned was a 1936 Cord. As I recall, there are some folks on here who don't think you can even get away with using antifreze in cars with open cooling systems and packing-style water pumps, due to foaming. My 1936 Pontiac doesn't seem to care, but my 1913 Studebaker had to go back to water. That is extremely inconvenient because it freezes here. I have to drain it every time, or risk forgetting.
  29. 1 point
    When I first got my 1937 Century, it was running very rich due to a carburetor problem. That black soot was quite an issue with it running too rich. After I got the carburetor straightened out, it was still acting like it was running rich, black smoke under acceleration, etc. Lots of people thought the car ran really well. I was convinced that it was running like it should but I later figured out that it was just barely firing. The plug wires and distributor cap contacts were showing lots of sign of corrosion. After I replaced the points, plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor, the car no longer has any black smoke or soot coming out of the tailpipe under acceleration and it runs much better than it did before. Check all of the wiring and contacts in the ignition system. Clean or replace them as needed. Check and adjust the timing as necessary and make sure your vacuum advance is working correctly in the distributor. If you take care of all of those, I suspect your car will run much better.
  30. 1 point
    Fooled around with the parts car today. Tried to get the engine to turn over by putting a jumper wire on the starter, but no luck. No surprise there.
  31. 1 point
    I've done fine without back up cameras for over 40 years of driving. I'm going to decide what I want or don't want in my car. If that means having to drive vehicles that are 20, 30, 40 or more years old, that's fine with me. I wouldn't be interested in sites like the AACA, HAMB, etc if I wasn't.
  32. 1 point
    I have seen it several times first hand - 100 point car (solid no questions asked AACA senior potential and last we spoke they were prepping for CCCA - and should get it as all his CCCA cars score 99 point + or 100 on dot) and a super nice road car too (restored to show, but also run down the road)- fellow who restored is does incredible work. Also, car was super solid original prior to restoration.
  33. 1 point
    Yeah, nobody give a d--n about older people, except if they can get their money. If any of these companies had built a decent sized CAR instead of these gas guzzling SUV's and pickup truckes (a Buick Park Avenue for example, ugly but a truly great car) then trucks wouldn't necessarily have run off with the market. It was all a plan.....a devious plan by Detroit big-shots to build a one-size-fits-all vehicle. Young people today have no idea how great it was to come of age in the 1950's when beautiful, multi-colored cars, with multi-colored option interiors were offered. The people running the car companies were babies in the 1950's if at live at all.
  34. 1 point
    Rear cameras are great for parallel parking, if you still do that yourself! ? You can tell if that is one or two inches left between your bumper and the car behind you. No more bump to park like in the old days.... And, you can choose to not look at it! Mirrors are still mandatory, although some interior rear view mirrors are cameras.
  35. 1 point
    Leif is correct. Engine color. Hugh
  36. 1 point
    Engine color. Leif in Sweden
  37. 1 point
    Having judged modified (which is a VERY different animal than 400 pt) and being a devoted pre-war guy I would advise my fellow pre-war brethren to agree that: 1. this is agreeable 2. the amount of pre-war modifieds are few in number 3. Fair in that if the owner of a pre-war modified cares that much about judging of their car they can move for a few hours and come back or if they don't care they can simply stay and thus not participate in modified judging ( cause they don't care to)
  38. 1 point
    The brake material is shorter on the one shoe to keep the brakes from grabbing and give a more uniform friction force from the leading / trailing shoes as applied to the brake drum. I have heard that this was pioneered in the 1924 French Grand Prix by the Dusenberg race team as they were the only team that had hydraulic brakes on their cars. They also won that race which was the first American team to win that race.
  39. 1 point
    Here is the facts on antifreeze on what to use and not use. I have posted this before. I also have some pic. of rad cores I got from Don Graham a very experienced third generation rad guy. Pictures showed the solder being eaten away from the core causing leaks. I will see if I can find and post them.
  40. 1 point
    They have got to go with what sells. If economy sells again, then they will start making more cars again. Ford still did not declare bankruptcy and that is still a positive in my book.
  41. 1 point
    Actually getting a CUV rather than a sedan is most popular of all with mature buyers. Comparing the two the higher seating makes for easier entry and exit and older folks prefer that and have the money to pay extra to get the bigger vehicle.
  42. 1 point
    There are three technologies of antifreeze: organic acid technology (OAT), hybrid OAT (HOAT) and traditional ethylene glycol. They all work very well. OAT gives the best anti-corrosion protection because it is designed to work in pressurized systems in modern engines with magnesium and aluminium alloys, which are right at the top of the galvanic series. They are the most costly, too and many say we don't need these in our systems with iron, brass, copper and solder in our systems. As has been said, colour is not a reliable indicator of the type of anti-freeze. RTFL! (read the flamin' label) You will also get a load of tripe that OAT and perhaps HOAT attack seals in our old engines. This arises from a problem with dexcool in some Chevrolets in the '80s. It doesn't affect them. So use whatever you like at 50-50 ratio with water. It will do the job without harming anything, as long as you change it at two or three year intervals. The anti-corrosion additives are used up somewhat over that time and begin to break down into acids and so on.
  43. 1 point
    Yes, because I'm just positive gas will always be this cheap and will never, ever cost $5/gallon ever again. People will always want big, thirsty trucks. Great idea, let's bet the farm on that! Bye Ford. Join Chrysler on the ash heap of history when your short-sightedness and inability to see past this quarter's profit statements burn you to the ground. It won't be tomorrow, and it may not even be soon, but it will surely happen. And everyone will stand around shrugging their shoulders wondering how this happened, how could we possibly have seen this coming?
  44. 1 point
    Yes there was a guy looking I sent several that looked to really fit his criteria and they all got vetoed. I think the problem was it boiled down to wanting a 25G car for 10G. This on looks like a good candidate as mentioned for someone looking for one of these.
  45. 1 point
    Least you got a response, that’s one better than me... not much point saying you’ve got all the parts and then not reaponsing
  46. 1 point
    I dealt with his shop one time when I needed info on a trunk lock for a 30 Cadillac. They needed info on front seat mounting hardware for their 31 Cadillac. So I sent pictures to them then they asked for more no problem. I waited a week for my info so when nothing came I called. Told me the trunk was locked and they could not open it so I was out of luck. Last time I heard from them.
  47. 1 point
    although mines far from finished it is mobile an got right around 100 miles on it this weekend .
  48. 1 point
    When I had my shop I TOOK THE TIME TO DO IT RIGHT NO MATTER THE TIME INVOLVED!!!! Most times it was a LOSS!!!. BUT, I had the confidence/knowledge knowing it was done the best way I knew how. ALL CARS got a 4 wheel alignment even though there was NO adjustment for the rear. You would be surprised on how much movement there is on a car with leaf springs & the alignment pins between the springs & rear diff. housing. By loosing up the rear u-bolts & using a bar against the wheel one way or the other & tightening down the u-bolts, if nothing else can get the rear MUCH better than it was. It's amazing how much BETTER a car can ride/handle when the rear is closer to being aligned. Kinda takes some of the roughness out. Another thing concerns ride height. I know there are ALL KINDS of ways to bring the vehicle back up to specs. by replacing springs, adding rubber spacers between the coil springs & control arms/upper mounts. I have used with much success is the plastic spacers used/made by TRW. You need a spring spreader to install but they have been in the front of my '64 Riv. since 1968 & haven't fallen out or caused any advise affects. Since they are plastic you will get NO noises if they do rub, which mine DON'T!!! You wouldn't believe what an improvement in the ride & handling departments. Just my dimes worth. Tom T.
  49. 1 point
    1925 Buick Model 25A Enclosed Touring.
  50. 1 point
    These photos or similar ones have appeared elsewhere on this forum but they fit here,too. The 1925 Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe was restored in the '70's and sat for 37 years.I bought it in July 2017 and just got it all sorted out in time to put it away again for the winter. The 1929 McLaughlin-Buick Master Close-coupled sedan underwent a ten year year restoration from cow scratching post to show winner.I bought it several years ago.