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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/28/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Doug - Awesome mid-century neighborhood! Did you happen to live down the street from the Brady's...?
  2. 3 points
    The copper coil is placed against the heater core. There is a clip that holds it in place.
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Contrary to what KongaMan has said, I find few cars offered for "pennies on n the dollar", I find many are trying to get more than market value for a variety of reasons (rather because granddad fold the what is s worth to him or watching too many TV auctions. May be just the area where I reside. Otherwise, I would have a bunch more cars, I fear. John
  5. 2 points
    Fun thread... apparently our toys come in ALL sizes...) This 1:25 scale '65 Riv was built and hand painted back in the early 1980's shortly after I purchased my 1:1 1964 Riv in Wedgewood blue (that I still own). Colour came close, but a tad too dark. At the time, model manufacturers were only producing the '65 Riv' scale models and they are still readily available. For the 1963, and 64 years, these models were only available in '63/64. They can be still be found on eBay, some built, some in original boxes, some $$$, and although I've since acquired a handful of the original '64 scale models, I've not got around to re-creating the 1:1 aside from this one... Although I built models as a kid, that fad faded long ago until about 10-12 years ago when my son got to be the age that he was interested in building them, so of course, I got involved. A couple of our Riv projects... Another '65... '66... (the red thing on the steering wheel is a homemade anti-theft club...) I've also collected a number of first gen Riv's in various scales, some plastic, metal, a couple small slot car racers... When I find the time, I'll take a few photos of some of those...
  6. 1 point
    Greetings All. I just bought my first Buick. She is a 49 Super 56C, aka Convertible, and she is an all original beauty. I look forward to reading about your experiences and appreciate any words of wisdom y'all can give me about finding parts. I come from a vintage British bike background so I understand the ups and downs of owning a classic or 2. Let the adventures begin!
  7. 1 point
    My biggest pet peeve with our newer car (2016) is the sound system. It came with an operating manual that's thicker than the cars owners manual and if I accidentally touch something on the screen I have a he'll of a time trying to get back to the basic radio mode. I've got a 74 MG with a cassette player, cassettes are even getting hard to find. Don't get me started on power windows. They laughed at me if I could get our new car with wind up windows.Give me knobs and a radio and do away with that stupid touch screen! What the he'll is a blue tooth an ah ha anyway? I do kinda like the rear view camera but then that's why God put out heads on a swivel. Greg.
  8. 1 point
    upstairs http://forums.aaca.org/forum/153-junkyards/
  9. 1 point
    Do whatever you can to experience driving as many cars as you can. The first generation cars are small compared to the later models. They are tight in the driver's seat for elbow room. I had a '68 and a '66 before I bought my '64. The '64 is pretty close to Skylark size inside. The chassis on the '72 is a whole lot different with a perimeter frame instead of an X-frame. Depending on how you are going to lift it for home garage service is a consideration overlooked sometimes. If a '72 is your dream car, I would say stick with that model until you find the right one. Short term ownership is not common with most Riviera, or Buick in general, purchases. Stick with first choice. Buying exactly what you want works much better than second choice. Take the time to look at some rough ones. Seeing the spots that go bad from neglect will give you pointers of where to look when the shiny one seems to smell like fresh paint. These are 40 to 50 year old cars. Buying one ain't the smartest thing you can do with your money. Figure the purchase price as the entry fee. If you think you might get some heat at the kitchen table for a few trips "back to the well" at $500 to $1,000 a whack, start setting a little aside while you are shopping to make those inevitable repairs less of an impact. A tin can with a few 100's in the garage never hurts, just to ease the tension. Your choice is good, though, they are inherently good cars. Bernie
  10. 1 point
    My advice is "Don't" If the differential is quite, I would let it be for awhile. See if it over fills again. My '50 shop manual actually instructs to turn the back cover one bolt, thereby raising the fill hole somewhat. What some have done on later years with auto trans is to drill a small [ 1/4 in ? ] hole in the bottom of the torque tube just in front of the flange at the back. Install a plug. Remove plug occasionally to check/drain any thing that gets that far back. My advice and I am sticking to it. Ben
  11. 1 point
    (And the failures were caused by? Just curious, but not as curious as the placement of those business establishments).
  12. 1 point
    An important point that seems to be missing is that Ford is still going to make cars. They just won’t be selling them in the US. If the market changes, the product will be availible and can be brought to the US very quickly. The reality is the car making business is one of the most highly regulated industries on earth. All the regulatory requirements that need to be met (emissions and safety) combined with the focus on autonomy creates a situation where Ford simply can’t be investing everywhere. They need to choose the areas that will provide the best return. Another thing to consider is that the gas mileage of SUVs has improved dramatically. If gas prices spike and MPG becomes more important, Ford will have vehicles that get decent mileage.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    You must be referring to the Ford Thunderbirds in the background. That body style ran from 1964 - 1966. So-called "Square Birds". Those are gaining popularity in the US also. One of the most distinctive features of these cars is the sequential turn signals! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPy1cyvMSus
  15. 1 point
    The Aqua Zephyr at the Goodguy's North Carolina Nationals Car Show, Raleigh, NC April 27-29, 2018. This is the overflow indoor display area. There is another building with about 75 cars in it. There are several hundred cars setup outside. Great show! No award for The Aqua Zephyr at the Goodguy's North Carolina Nationals Car Show this weekend.The competition was intense. So many awesome cars. They did hand out nice tin participation plaques to the non-winners though. Nice touch @goodguysrodandcustom! We had a great time and we are seriously considering signing up for the October show in Charlotte.
  16. 1 point
    Glad you got that one sorted Rich One often wonders what canabilizing has been done to our old cars in their "Previous Life"
  17. 1 point
    Kalispell Montana open 3 yards one the owner would not let me look had 400 to 300 cars 30 acres---- Wisher's auto recycling -406-752-2461------ I think you shuld not tell him your from Cal. then he let you see the cars I think --kyle
  18. 1 point
    Car #1 The sticker on the air cleaner probably says Wildcat 445 and not Wildcat 455. This indicates that the engine has 445 lb-ft of torque, making the engine a 401 c.i. nailhead rather than the Wildcat 465 or Super Wildcat which both had 465 lb-ft of torque and were 425 c.i. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION 03D ST 65-46667 FB 161752 BODY TR 677 R1 * PAINT W-2LR-5KW BODY BY FISHER 03D = body build date = March (03) 1965, fourth week (D) ST = style 65 = 1965 model year 46667 = Fisher body style number 4 = Buick 66 = Wildcat Custom 67 = 2-door convertible FB = body built at Flint, MI 161752 = sequential body number, no relation to VIN TR = trim Trim 677 = Red Vinyl with Bucket-Type Front Seats, available on style 46667 Paint code R = solid Flame Red 1 = White convertible top * = unknown, but only found on 1962-1966 tags from Flint, MI built cars Option codes: Group 1 W = Tinted windshield Group 2 L = 4-spd manual transmission R = Rear seat speaker Group 5 K = Door Edge Guards W = Seat Belts With Retractor Car #2 GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION 04A ST 65-44469 KAN 3430 BODY TR 131 C-C PAINT E 2KXPR 3H 4F 5W BODY BY FISHER 04A = body build date = April (04) 1965, first week (A) ST = style 65 = 1965 model year 44469 = Fisher body style number 4 = Buick 44 = Skylark V8 69 = 4-door thin pillar sedan KAN = body built at Kansas City, MO 3430 = sequential body number TR = trim Trim 131 = Blue Cloth and Vinyl, available on styles 44337, 44369, 44437, 44469 Paint code CC = solid Arctic White Option codes: Group 1 E = Tinted glass (all windows) Group 2 K = Air Conditioner X = ST-300 auto trans P = Back-up Lights R = Rear seat speaker Group 3 H = Belt reveal, wheelhouse opening molding Group 4 F = Remote controlled outside driver's mirror Group 5 W = Seat Belts With Retractor Car #3 GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION 01C ST 65-44437 FB 89968 BODY TR 138 CC * PAINT W-2XP-3H-4F-5W BODY BY FISHER 01C = body build date = January (01) 1965, third week (C) ST = style 65 = 1965 model year 44437 = Fisher body style number 4 = Buick 44 = Skylark V8 37 = 2-door hardtop sport coupe FB = body built at Flint, MI 89968 = sequential body number, no relation to VIN TR = trim Trim 138 = Black Cloth and Vinyl, available on styles 44337, 44369, 44437, 44469 Paint code CC = solid Arctic White * = unknown, but only found on 1962-1966 tags from Flint, MI built cars Option codes: Group 1 W = Tinted windshield Group 2 X = ST-300 auto trans P = Back-up Lights Group 3 H = Belt reveal, wheelhouse opening molding Group 4 F = Remote controlled outside driver's mirror Group 5 W = Seat Belts With Retractor
  19. 1 point
    So an update: It's late and I just returned from Hood River where my 99-year old mother-in-law is going into hospice; but it's ok. She's not in any pain, she's lived a good, if hard, life, and she still considers me her favorite son-in-law (I'm also her only son-in-law!). And I'm on my second glass of Burgundy. Anyway, on Wednesday I spent over two hours at the yard removing the wiring harness from the '92 Riviera. I couldn't believe how many parts I had to remove to get to this harness; the coil pack and ICM (which I was keeping) , the alternator (which means removing the serpentine belt (which I just cut off, this is a PnP after all)), a couple of hoses, and some brackets; (one around the crankshaft which had 17 mm bolts holding it on, as compared to the same bracket on the Reatta having 10 mm bolts). And the engine had an oil leak which meant everything was filthy with grimy oil; to paraphrase the king of Siam, " et cetera, et cetera and so forth). In other words, a typical day at the yard. You know it's either cold and wet or hot and dusty. This day it was hot and dusty. I had to return Thursday morning to finish up but I got it all. Thank you again 2seater, I'm sure this is the same harness and it cost me $5. I also picked up the coil pack and ICM, which cost me $50, and the alternator (which I had to remove anyway, and I had checked out at my local FLAPS (O'Reilly's), and it tested good, for $35). I have not tried to start the 'vert since the wiring is obviously suspect. I am about to begin the journey of replacing the wiring harness. I will try to keep you all (I can't believe I said that!) posted but my personal life keeps interfering with my automotive life. I can't understand how that happens.
  20. 1 point
    Let me say that I agreed with the govt's assessment that GM was too big to allow to fail. This is not based on politics, or ideology, it is strictly based on economics. GM took the govt loans, paid their obligation early, and moved on. Ford got universal kudos for not needing to accept the "bailout," but what did it really cost them. While they were able to secure loans on their own, to stay the course they also were forced to sell Jaguar/Landrover to Tata motors. Alan Mullally, company president, stated that it was time to return to their own luxury marque Lincoln. The selling price was, I believe, around two Billion dollars. This was after Ford had sunk millions into the Coventry plant, to both modernize it, and to attack the quality flaws that had become implicit with the marque. So how did that work out for Ford, not very well. Tata returned management to Coventry, and returned the company to profitability. Enough profit, in fact, to cover all of the purchase price in several years. Ford's emphasis on Lincoln fell flat. While the Towncar served the company well domestically, there was no international marque recognition. By giving up on their only global, luxury marque was a huge mistake. We live in a world economy, and Ford chose not to play. Personally I think that Ford made another huge mistake, when the chose to drop the full framed, rear wheeled drive, Crown Victoria based, line of cars. They had been the mainstay for police, taxi and limousine service for two decades. None of their offerings have made them a player in any of these markets.
  21. 1 point
    Antifreeze left in too long runs out of its additives, and turns acidic. Years ago, many drivers could not be convinced to ever change coolant unless it looked really rusty or something. These were the same people who had a lot of radiator failures, rusted out freeze plugs, heater core failures, and so on. You could recognize a car like this because the coolant would be trying to eat it's way to the outside. There would be corrosion, usually white, slowly coming out from under every hose, the thermostat gasket, and so on. The radiator would usually be seeping around the tubes. There was no modern coolant yet to blame. From my point of view, the recommendation to leave it in 5 years is the problem. I still use "modern" coolant, much to the horror of some of my car guy friends. I change it often. I have only been doing it 30 years. We really should get back to the OP's question, as this is getting a bit off-topic. The newest car he mentioned was a 1936 Cord. As I recall, there are some folks on here who don't think you can even get away with using antifreze in cars with open cooling systems and packing-style water pumps, due to foaming. My 1936 Pontiac doesn't seem to care, but my 1913 Studebaker had to go back to water. That is extremely inconvenient because it freezes here. I have to drain it every time, or risk forgetting.
  22. 1 point
    Yes, it does. Back in the day however, it was common for there not to be enough room to get a fitting in to grease universal joints, even when installed correctly, so your local gas station had an adapter like the one on the bottom in this pic labeled "needle-end adapter" It is not a needle-end adapter. Here is how it works. Your air-powered grease gun has a standard fitting like the one on the upper right, that would not reach the universal joint fitting. The large barrel-shaped right side of this thing they are calling a "needle-end adapter" has a zerk inside. You pull that outer barrel back, and snap the fitting on the zerk, then a spring on that barrel pushes it back around your fitting, locking it in place. The long tip of the adapter is concave, so that if you push it up against the tip of the zerk on the universal joint, It will sort of seal. You have to hold it up against the zerk tightly while you squirt the grease in, because you are the only thing holding it there. This actually works pretty well on an air powered grease gun. I have never tried one of these on a hand-powered gun. I imagine it would be a little like trying to do calligraphy while riding a mechanical bull. If that adapter wont get the job done because it is still too big around to get a straight shot at the zerk fitting on the universal, then you need an actual needle adapter. These seal around the inside of the little hole, and either the grease or some part of the needle pushes the little ball out of the way. Be sure it is a grease needle for zerks, as other types of grease needles exist. The best of them have a tip at the universal joint zerk end that looks about like this: Warning: this one may get grease on your hair, the cat, the neighbor kids, the ceiling, and any birds that might be flying overhead. Have fun
  23. 1 point
    If you haven`t done it and no telling if it`s ever been done, the rocker arms may need to be adjusted.
  24. 1 point
    When I first got my 1937 Century, it was running very rich due to a carburetor problem. That black soot was quite an issue with it running too rich. After I got the carburetor straightened out, it was still acting like it was running rich, black smoke under acceleration, etc. Lots of people thought the car ran really well. I was convinced that it was running like it should but I later figured out that it was just barely firing. The plug wires and distributor cap contacts were showing lots of sign of corrosion. After I replaced the points, plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor, the car no longer has any black smoke or soot coming out of the tailpipe under acceleration and it runs much better than it did before. Check all of the wiring and contacts in the ignition system. Clean or replace them as needed. Check and adjust the timing as necessary and make sure your vacuum advance is working correctly in the distributor. If you take care of all of those, I suspect your car will run much better.
  25. 1 point
    You got that right! I have two 1931 Dodge coupes. Both built in February. One has the shooting star radiator cap, the other has the leaping ram. One has two hinges on the doors, one has three... there were other weird changes that are small, but significant when looking for a correct 1931 Dodge part. That is what makes it fun... I guess.
  26. 1 point
    I've done fine without back up cameras for over 40 years of driving. I'm going to decide what I want or don't want in my car. If that means having to drive vehicles that are 20, 30, 40 or more years old, that's fine with me. I wouldn't be interested in sites like the AACA, HAMB, etc if I wasn't.
  27. 1 point
    I have seen it several times first hand - 100 point car (solid no questions asked AACA senior potential and last we spoke they were prepping for CCCA - and should get it as all his CCCA cars score 99 point + or 100 on dot) and a super nice road car too (restored to show, but also run down the road)- fellow who restored is does incredible work. Also, car was super solid original prior to restoration.
  28. 1 point
    Yeah, nobody give a d--n about older people, except if they can get their money. If any of these companies had built a decent sized CAR instead of these gas guzzling SUV's and pickup truckes (a Buick Park Avenue for example, ugly but a truly great car) then trucks wouldn't necessarily have run off with the market. It was all a plan.....a devious plan by Detroit big-shots to build a one-size-fits-all vehicle. Young people today have no idea how great it was to come of age in the 1950's when beautiful, multi-colored cars, with multi-colored option interiors were offered. The people running the car companies were babies in the 1950's if at live at all.
  29. 1 point
    This is a hobby for old guys. That's an actuarially endangered demographic, with few replacements on the horizon. Do your heirs and assigns a favor, and either start thinning the herd or make sure they know exactly what you've got. Even at that, your pride and joy is likely to become "Dad's old car" to be disposed of for pennies on the dollar because they have no need or want of it.
  30. 1 point
    Engine color. Leif in Sweden
  31. 1 point
    It's subjective in my area of NYS. I have run YOM on the GS and the '56 for decades and have never been pulled over. The 56 is even a one plate year, so I have no front plate at all. Meanwhile a good friend with a 75 Trans Am was pulled over after an event where the norm is a burn out upon departure, even though he had both YOM plates duly mounted. The Sherriff in that case claimed she knew nothing about using the old plates on historical vehicles. Yeah...like I'd believe that! The YOM plate number is listed on the vehicles papers, in our case the glove box documents and windshield registration sticker . The DMV will register just about anything remotely recognized as a NYS issued YOM plate for the vehicle, but will not register anything where the plate number is already in use. For example, you can put a car plate on a commercial vehicle and taxi plates on a car, just as long as the plate sequence is not already in use. It gets interesting when you get to older custom plates. The number I have on my '56 appears to have been custom ordered because there were plates issued under that same number across several plate design changes. As long as I keep that number active by renewing my registration, no one else with the same number, on a different styled plate, can use it. But if I let it lapse and someone else registers the same number before I renew, then I'd be out of luck. But the rule says the plate has to be a legitimate plate for the year of manufacture, and it cannot be restored. Meanwhile I have seen later year plates on earlier vehicles, restored plates on several cars, and even heard a rumor that one guy had a plate made to describe his car, in a series where the plate combo was never available, and it was accepted. Oh well.
  32. 1 point
    Having judged modified (which is a VERY different animal than 400 pt) and being a devoted pre-war guy I would advise my fellow pre-war brethren to agree that: 1. this is agreeable 2. the amount of pre-war modifieds are few in number 3. Fair in that if the owner of a pre-war modified cares that much about judging of their car they can move for a few hours and come back or if they don't care they can simply stay and thus not participate in modified judging ( cause they don't care to)
  33. 1 point
    Good idea or not we are currently supplying wood and other parts to at least 4 HOBBYISTS who are restoring 900 Coupes or Convertibles. Anyone remember that word " hobbyist" ? These days, and especially on these forums it has been replaced with "speculator". " Beware the Philistine for he knows the price of everything but the value of nothing. " It isn't always about the money, folks.
  34. 1 point
    The brake material is shorter on the one shoe to keep the brakes from grabbing and give a more uniform friction force from the leading / trailing shoes as applied to the brake drum. I have heard that this was pioneered in the 1924 French Grand Prix by the Dusenberg race team as they were the only team that had hydraulic brakes on their cars. They also won that race which was the first American team to win that race.
  35. 1 point
    Here is the drawing from Heldt. This is c.1910. Notice that there are only two vanes. The difference in size between the rotor and the housing must be very exaggerated because the volume pumped is equal to the difference in volume between the rotor and the housing. I had to reduce the gap, at the big end of mine to 1/8" in order to get the volume down to only two times what he considers ideal for the surface area of the bearings in my car.
  36. 1 point
    Here is the facts on antifreeze on what to use and not use. I have posted this before. I also have some pic. of rad cores I got from Don Graham a very experienced third generation rad guy. Pictures showed the solder being eaten away from the core causing leaks. I will see if I can find and post them.
  37. 1 point
    I wish they would use a better nomenclature than "junk yard"!! "Junk" is so pejorative, and what I've pull out of yards, and the good time had in doing so, seems to call for a more dignified term. So here's to "salvage yards"! The old car hobby is, by the way, a real leader in the craft of recycling and salvaging of parts. Those green Priuses - or is it Prii? - They aint got nothin on my old Buick.
  38. 1 point
    Thanks for sharing. I enjoy seeing the fabrication skills
  39. 1 point
    Actually getting a CUV rather than a sedan is most popular of all with mature buyers. Comparing the two the higher seating makes for easier entry and exit and older folks prefer that and have the money to pay extra to get the bigger vehicle.
  40. 1 point
    The first temptation is to put the hand crank on the front of the engine and see if it turns over. As long as this one looks to have been sitting, I would not. You may end up with broken rockers, best case, bent push rods due to stuck valves. First check to see if all the valves are free. PB Blaster and a nylon hammer to 'tonk' each one. Stuck ones won't sound like free ones.
  41. 1 point
    This brings to mind a bumper sticker I saw 20 years ago: "Out of work? Hungry? Eat your import!"
  42. 1 point
    One could also say, that who ever can invest this kind of money, just go and see it live. You wil not buying it based on pictures onley. I would also not waste time to send pictures knowing they wil not buy anyway.... rgds. i think the pictures are good enough to have general idea.
  43. 1 point
    Wire wheels were available from the zone warehouses for the 35, and 36 Chevrolet Master series. That is what they look like to me. Hubcaps are available. Wire wheels are a little problematic to keep clean.
  44. 1 point
    Yes there was a guy looking I sent several that looked to really fit his criteria and they all got vetoed. I think the problem was it boiled down to wanting a 25G car for 10G. This on looks like a good candidate as mentioned for someone looking for one of these.
  45. 1 point
    Congrats on your progress, and sorry to hear I missed you at Bakersfield! Not a total loss, I found a steering column and gear for my 24 4-banger.
  46. 1 point
    Accrued 79 miles between yesterday and today. Wrapped up with sunset tonight
  47. 1 point
    I dealt with his shop one time when I needed info on a trunk lock for a 30 Cadillac. They needed info on front seat mounting hardware for their 31 Cadillac. So I sent pictures to them then they asked for more no problem. I waited a week for my info so when nothing came I called. Told me the trunk was locked and they could not open it so I was out of luck. Last time I heard from them.
  48. 1 point
    Nice weather is killing my productivity at home.....
  49. 1 point
    These photos or similar ones have appeared elsewhere on this forum but they fit here,too. The 1925 Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe was restored in the '70's and sat for 37 years.I bought it in July 2017 and just got it all sorted out in time to put it away again for the winter. The 1929 McLaughlin-Buick Master Close-coupled sedan underwent a ten year year restoration from cow scratching post to show winner.I bought it several years ago.
  50. 0 points
    Nice 5 window resto project - NOT!! This is on the side of a trail at a waterfall park in NW GA. The falls are called Amicalola. (Easy access and really neat place if you are in the area) The intriguing question is how did it get there. It appears to have been there longer than the trail. It is a long way up a very steep slope to the road above it. No way it came up from below. There are a lot of large trees between it and the road above that look to me like they have been there longer than the truck. It is completely stripped of anything removable and is only the shell.