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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    The whole issue of "altogether" and "chronological" parking has been hammered out to the point where, I even hesitate to even bring it up. That said, John DiFore has done as good a job as I have seen of explaining where this is at the moment. I know that a parking issue at a previous National Meet has brought this to the forefront. That is long over and done with. No one on the National Meet Committee has been against this type of parking. The biggest issues are that parking at any National Meet becomes a compromise between the hotel and the host chapter. Many times a planned parking arrangement gets changed at the 11th hour due to a hotel selling part of their parking lot, agreements between hotels and their neighbors going away just before a meet is scheduled to happen. (the same situation can occur with trailer parking) Unless a person has been involved in the running of a meet, it can be very difficult to understand how these situations can occur. The other issues that can and do occur is a lack of volunteers to actually do the parking. Much of our membership is aging and can not be putting 8 plus hours a day parking cars in the summer heat. As John mentioned in his comments, every effort will be made to accomplish chronological parking starting at the 2018 Denver meet. This will be our initial trial for this type of parking with the expectation, that what ever is learned will be used to make improvements going forward. It is not expected that modifieds will be included as, they use a different type of judging, and will probably prefer to park in the modified Class. Modifieds span a great number of years and this would put too great a strain on the organization of the meet, if they prefer to be judged. I am also sure that any modified that wants "display only" and wants to be chronologically parked could be accommodated. I am looking forward to the Denver Meet. The host chapter has done a great job in organizing this meet. Jack Welch (National Meet Committee / 2018 National Meet Head Judge)
  2. 3 points
    John: Love the idea. I may or may not make, it but I will have a lot fun trying. This is strictly an activity where the journey is more important than the destination. My '38 is waiting for tis lousy New England weather to go away and bring Spring.
  3. 3 points
    I have no problem with the Chinese jacks, because you should NEVER be under anything supported by one! And you should throw it away when it gets damaged. Harbor Freight jacks lift a car just like Snap-On jacks. No, of course, when it comes time to rebuild the Harbor Freight, one just buys another one, typically. Snap-On might get you service parts for your jack. I say might, because I now have Snap-On pneumatic tools that the company no longer supports. Not to mention battery operated Snap-On tools from 20-25 years ago. I do use the Harbor Freight Hoist Stands with my lift. They are great. Nothing hydraulic to break. Hey, Real, don't you know experience come from bad judgement? Ha!
  4. 2 points
    Salvage yards in my area used to mark down a buyer's name on parts like transmissions, when the buyer had called ahead and agreed to buy the unit, and the employees had pulled it out and brought it up to the front desk. That way, when the buyer walked in the door asking for his part, the counter men could easily find it on the "will-call" shelf. I bet that's what this is. Your transmission reminds me of the Borg Warner auto trans that was in the 1963 Studebaker Lark I had about 10,000 years ago. I wasn't allowed to own a car, but when her transmission went out, a kind old lady in the neighborhood gave me her Lark. I went to a local salvage yard, and bought a used transmission. It wasn't much better than the one I took out, but it got me around town, somehow. Glad my dad didn't catch me out on the road with it! LOL
  5. 2 points
    When the shop install the shims be sure to make clear they are not to put any weight on the sensor leads. Remember these leads are obsolete. The shop sometimes just lets the calipers, hub assemblies hang from the brake line and wheel speed sensor lead.
  6. 2 points
    It is Monday, April 16th; and we have a report from Greg. Good day to you all. Enclosed find some photos a long time coming. Not just because I've been off the air for a while, (progress has left me behind when it comes to communication technology. These pics captured and sent by Nathan's smart phone.) Last night began some reassembly of the '10 Overland engine. That too long overdue since I took the Overland apart over thirty years ago. But since it has been a very long time ago means that now I can enjoy the help of my son Nathan. This series of photos shows the crankcase which has been cleaned, fitted with new babbitt main bearings, the interior sealed with Glyptol and the exterior my usual treatment of buffing with a wire wheel, a rub with Rustoleum aluminum paint on a rag to seal the pores, and rebuffed with the wire wheel to bring up the gloss. The crankshaft had been reground, and Dave Coleman checked the balance. So now with a slathering of a mixture of STP and motor oil, the shaft has been bedded in the bearings. It will be nice to keep adding to the assembly. And seeing today's date I'm reminded that only fifty years ago today I started the mustache that gets in my way, begun that first day I arrived in Viet Nam. Half a century?! best wishes to all. GREG.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Big ask for me John , living on a small island, a long trip is 60 miles .Have added only 3000 miles on Ruby’s mileometer since I bought her 2 years ago and that’s with quite frequent trips. I am only here 8 months of year and would need to nearly double my driving activity to reach 2500 per annum. Also when you have been coming to same place for 14 years there are very few places you haven’t been. You guys in States have no excuses , good luck will watch with interest
  9. 2 points
    I wonder if "purists" read the running "modifications" in the service bulletin books printed by th First Bhick modifiers, the factory engineers, as they found the "original" designs needed to be updated! The GS guys go so far as to find the build date, then buy the book printed at the time appropriate for the month of manufacture of their car! Lord save us. Perfection is a laudable goal, not a reality! More power 2 ya! Cars are the best they'll be the moment restoration is done! Its down hill ever after, so Im ganna halfta get one o them big plastic climate controlled bags or have it cryogenically frozen, oh my, better buy a backup generator case of power loss, hope it starts when needed, maybe another to backup the backup....
  10. 2 points
    Four things are needed to lift any car or truck: - A quality jack. - Quality jack stands. - Good judgement. - Experience. Missing one? Come back after you have it...
  11. 2 points
    I really like that early Buick truck with the chain drive. Such a cool unit. There aren't many around.
  12. 2 points
    These pictures are from last summer. I am going to drive it to Overland Park this June. I hope winter is over by then.
  13. 2 points
  14. 1 point
    Here,s a 1925 Standard for sale on Long island craigslist. Says $22, Best offer. California top. Looks very complete. In garage for 35 years. I wonder what sort of price he is thinking of. Phone 718 598 1954
  15. 1 point
    Well I took the idea behind Pete's wind wing mounting scheme and refined it a bit. I designed this flat plate support (3/16" / 4.76 mm thick) and had them machined at Emachineshop.com. It was easy to get a quote and the price wasn't too bad. I machinedup some larger diameter, thicker wall spacers to replace the original thin wall ones. This should prevent tilting with wind loading. The wind wing clamps are circa 1929 Model A as are the tempered glass pieces. It would have been nice if the glass was a few inches longer but my budget wouldn't allow for custom made ones. I also had to shorten the springs a bit to compensate for the extra thickness (to keep enough thread bite for the acorn nut). All in all, I think it looks OK. If anyone would like a copy of the support AutoCad file just send me a PM with your email.
  16. 1 point
    General suggestion on paint: if you are going to change colors from the original, get a sales brochure and see what colors the manufacturers chose for your model. A great deal of time and money is spent on deciding these original colors for maximum sales, and, generally, those colors remain the most popular, for that model, today.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Without PROOF to the contrary , any prospective purchaser would have to ASSUME the worst. WE all know how that goes , and why. From the very little I can see , I can see I would have to see a lot more of it’s potential. I have a feeling the seller will be the owner of this car for some time. Like all the rest of us , I sure hope he can drag it out in the light of day and take some real pics of it. - Carl
  19. 1 point
    One of Broderick Crawford's cars repurposed.
  20. 1 point
    Peter I've reviewed the ad you provided a link for and it seems as if it would be a fun car. It is a B25 which has the model 10 engine and is well known and easy to keep on the road, sort of, but not as easy as a Ford. Many things wrong with the layout of the car, most of which are obvious but could be put right in time. Regards, Gary
  21. 1 point
    Most of the National Meets, that i have brought a car to, I have shown it as display only. Even though I am heavily involved with the judging program, I do not care about submitting my car for judging for the most part. I do have one car that is a Gold / Senior car, but I have also participated in a 2000 mile plus tour with that same car. BCA National Meets are currently set up for members to get the most of that fellowship regardless of their reason for attending. Some come to see other cars and get ideas for cars, that they are restoring, others to buy Buick parts from our vendors , some to have their cars judged. The greatest fun to me is seeing the cars and getting together with my many BCA friends. Why are we hung up on why other members attend?
  22. 1 point
    I spoke to the owner of this 1914 McLaughlin last night. It is still available and seems like a fair price, in Canadian dollars. https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1914-McLaughlin-Touring-Car_27816256 Peter
  23. 1 point
    Wipers are working great! Yes, they do slow under acceleration. That is normal. Do the same when driving up a hill. Vacuum simply dies. But, the fuel/vacuum pump keeps them going.
  24. 1 point
    Morten: Yes it is possible. I have done it many times on mine. 1. Drain system and remove upper radiator hose. 2. Disconnect heater hoses, if any, and lower radiator hose from pump end. 3. Remove the 2 bypass/thermostat housing bolts, loosen clamp to short bypass hose on bottom of housing, separate from cyl head and work out of top of hose 4. Loosen gen bracket hold bolts, loosen belt, and remove from car 5. Tape a piece of cardboard over the radiator surface to protect it 6. Remove the inner bolt on the pump to block fitting and loosen the outer one 7. Loosen the center bolt and work it out, you will have to work it out around the fan 8. Remove the loosened block fitting bolt 9. Remove from car, carefully working it up and over the top of the engine. Notice I did not remove the fan. It's a bit tricky if you haven't done it before and having somebody help does ease the process, but I have done it myself a lot. On our 1940 cars, you have to remove the pump before removing the radiator, so that approach won't work in our case. Good luck, Dave
  25. 1 point
    Hello richelieumotor, I may have a pair of solid front fenders, in paint. Send me a PM if interested. Al
  26. 1 point
    Hi there. Would you happen to have a decent set of rocker panels and front fenders?
  27. 1 point
    Maybe I can put flames on grimace , not sure I can find such a fender accessory though ?
  28. 1 point
    As they say, one cannot control the weather. It was clod and rainy on Friday night, and cold and windy Saturday morning. We left at noon to go see two local private garages, so not enough time to get the cars organized in a parking lot together. The garages were outstanding. By the time we returned, the weather was nice but we lost our parking spaces. Not a lot of Buicks, but it was nice to see old friends again.
  29. 1 point
    Found this the other day, it was a mockup of a 1954 Roadmaster taken for artist reference material for when they would do the paintings for brochures and advertisements
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Thank you for the reply. I think that I will leave it the way it is.The problem is on the hood, from 10 ft away the paint looks new. buckeye 2
  32. 1 point
    I plane on driving it for a weekend like that befor I bolt the car body on !!--kyle
  33. 1 point
    Here in America we are idiots. We say fender instead of mud guard, and we say cheese when they take out picture, instead of cheers. But we made Buicks so we can't be all bad.
  34. 1 point
    Went from mid 60s here in the Northeast yesterday (first nice day) in which I was able to mess with the new headlights on the Riv, to low 40s again today and sort of rainy. Grrrr.
  35. 1 point
    Post 52... Going for triple.
  36. 1 point
    Never balanced trailer tires and unless they were way out of balance, find it hard to think it would cause the lug problems. Small trailer hubs are not as precision made as a hub on a car or truck. It’s very common to see, if you look close at a trailer hub, that it has been bored and turned off center of the casting a fair amount. Manufacturers just don’t put the accuracy in machining on a trailer hub because of the lack of need for balancing. Like what was mentioned about replacement of studs and lugs, I’d also recommend the wheels but this is if they’ve been on and off a lot or ever run with loose lugs (loose meaning finger loose). Worn wheels, lugs, and studs will cause your problem but I’ve seen it happen on virtually new trailers as I explained in my previous post. Unless you’ve been towing this trailer for years, replaced wheels on and off, or had some severe rusting of the studs/lugs, I’d look first at the trailer attitude and weight distribution over the axles.
  37. 1 point
    Here is a pic of my 65. Had it for over 10 years now. Very fun car to drive around town. Looking to put some "reverse" style Supremes on there next, if any of you have experience with reverse style wheels, any advice would be appreciated. Mainly want to know if there is anything on the car that would need to be modified. Thx.
  38. 1 point
    This small shaft on the steering arm could be part of the mechanism to operate the brake band. Can't tell if there is another on the other side.
  39. 1 point
    New license plate for the front since I live so near to Route 66. In fact, I can see it from my living room window. Almost every time I drive Route 66 I see some type of classic car.
  40. 1 point
    With small wheels and what appears to be pebble-surfaced concrete, if that is where it is used, the ability for the jack to roll is hampered. Rolling is necessary as the jack raises the vehicle.
  41. 1 point
    Just wanted to say Thank You to the Hornet's Region for putting on a great show. I really enjoyed it. Also, thank you to the car owners for bringing their show vehicles out even in the rain. I do not think that the rain dampened either the vehicle owners or the Judges spirits. Thank you to all of you who have posted pictures. I always enjoy seeing them. Looking forward to the Charlotte Meet next year.
  42. 1 point
    Thank you Annie. Glad to hear that Joel will be taking pictures and appreciate that he is willing to take a day off to be at the NC Region show.
  43. 1 point
    That judkins coupe is missing some hard to find parts and its in poor shape. I would not consider that car. Buy the blue 169B in hemmings.
  44. 1 point
    Yep, I want to drive it. I plan trailer it to a couple of shows initially. I would like to get it judged at a few major AACA and Buick Club of America events, but then it's going on the road.
  45. 1 point
    Gary, The electric fuel pump is used to prime the carburetor, or it can be run to supplement the mechanical fuel pump to combat vapor lock in the rare times when that is a problem. It is installed in the single fuel line and it pumps through the mechanical pump, and when it is off, the mechanical pump can pull fuel through the electric pump without any problem. That is the way it is installed on my 1937 Century, so I installed one on the 1938 Century in the same manner.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I suggest you contact Russell Holden in Mudgee AU. He gets full shipping containers shipped from the states every year and usually has cars for sale. He is now on the HCCA board and will probably have more opportunities to find what you seek.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    These photos or similar ones have appeared elsewhere on this forum but they fit here,too. The 1925 Standard Six Four Passenger Coupe was restored in the '70's and sat for 37 years.I bought it in July 2017 and just got it all sorted out in time to put it away again for the winter. The 1929 McLaughlin-Buick Master Close-coupled sedan underwent a ten year year restoration from cow scratching post to show winner.I bought it several years ago.