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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/14/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Survivior unrestored 1922 Elcar K6 CoupeIt starts easily, and runs and drives well. Inline 6 Continental engine with 3 speed.Of the 61 total documented surviving Elcar models featured in the book "Elcar and Pratt Automobiles: The Complete History By William Locke", this is the only k6 coupe remaining, and has been in the same family for more than 60 years.It was primarily used as a parade car for the Whittier Elks lodge by my wife's grandfather before being passed down to her uncle, and finally to us. Lots of documented history. The Elcar was an American automobile briefly manufactured from 1915 until 1931 by the Elkhart Carriage Company, of Elkhart, Indiana, which had been in business for over 30 years before producing its first car. Known to be a high quality car in it's day, production was limited and eventually ceased due to the stock market crash and subsequent great depression.A true piece of history from the early days of American automobile makers. Keep as survivor or an excellent restoration candidate.
  2. 2 points
    Off to the Texas regional meet today.... 300 + miles one way. Should be fun if we dont have storms.
  3. 2 points
    Oh, friend, where to begin... Differences between Chevy and Buick? Everything except a few electrical terminals and the ballast resistor. Small Buicks shared some stuff with Olds, larger Buicks with Cady. They sold half a million Buicks that year, so had no need to economize that much. It is amazing how the different divisions went their own way in that era. Buicks are bigger, a nicer ride, and a lot more flash. You won't likely have another parked next to you in a car show. Try riding in the back seat of a Buick, even a smaller Special or Century, and then try a Chevy. Buicks take a little more creativity and time in finding parts, but I have always found what I need. Regardless, buy what suits you, your budget and the skills of you and the mechanics in your life. FWIW, I love my '54 Buicks, and have been driving them since 1985.
  4. 2 points
    Just got back from the 2018 Yosemite HCCA National Tour. Had magneto issues that put our car in the trailer. But we had a great time seeing all the waterfalls etc. in a modern car anyway. Tomorrow we go to the Bakersfield Swap Meet!
  5. 2 points
    With working nights now have some time in the afternoon. I heard the garage door opening and found my son was looking for something. Decided to dig in there more and pulled a box or two out. Unmarked opening it, I found these. Opening the other up I found one eyebrow panel needing cleaning but pitted badly and one of the interior courtesy lights from the Limited parts car. it cleaned up not too bad. With today's temp at almost 70 () and having been up close and personal with three different Buick's last weekend it was too much to not rub down the Limited again before it was time to head on in to work tonight. . The trunk lid had splatter of some kind on it when I bought it a long time ago and with a little rubbing compound it will be looking good from a distance for now. At least it won't get any worse... Lot's to do and have all the pieces but will pick away at it as I can (after I change the Special fuel line...)
  6. 2 points
    I think all married women of that vintage who follow their husbands around like that all have the same sighs and "ah"'s. In my very brief and limited dealings with vintage junkyards, it really makes you wonder what their thought process is. They'd rather hike up the prices on "rare" parts (spoiler: everything in a junkyard is apparently rare ) and then crush everything versus selling the parts at an affordable price. It's no wonder most people do frame swaps and drivetrain swaps and brake swaps and anything else really. I find myself lucky my car came complete, give or take the nuisances I've had to deal with over the last two years. But those who start with a shell and go looking for original parts... man I can't imagine how expensive that must be.
  7. 1 point
    Hello All! We have a new to us 49 Super Vert in the garage (Its the wifes toy, that Im sure is only part mine when she wants me to fix it.) It has a few gremlins and I was hoping you could help us out. This post is about my first hurdle, It has a starter issue. First some info. It is definitely 6 volt, in 2013 it was pedal start (which I plan to get working later on) but someone has recently installed a push button switch in the dash that sometimes clicks the solenoid even when the key is off, If you give it a 12 volt jump it fires right up and runs well with decent idle oil pressure, and amps. The solenoid looks to be new (see pic), The battery is a brand new Interstate Heavy Duty. I believe its either the push button setup or the solenoid that was installed is a 12V since it fires up when jumped with a 12V. I was thinking of using a jumper from the battery to the solenoid to bypass the push button and determine if that is my problem. I need to know if the solenoid is + or - ignition start in order to test this. Im assuming its + but I want to be sure. The solenoid boot is orange and looks like brand new. The solenoid has some lettering in sharpie which tells me its most likely a rebuild. Any thoughts on how to diagnose this? And in advance, I want to thank you for taking the time to help me be my wifes hero on this
  8. 1 point
    I wanted to provide a link and share this particular Photo of a mid 20's Buick Dealership garage. It looks to be a 1924 Buick 6 with the engine removed in the foreground, and an earlier Buick touring with the engine being removed just behind it. Numerous sport touring cars on stands in the background. No need for a lift. Do everything with a bank of chain falls. Lots of other photos on this site. Hugh http://theoldmotor.com/?p=164416
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    An interesting problem. I just took a quick look at my sources but a perfect solution didn't pop out. Tubing is measured on the OD so the perfect size would be 2-1/4" with a .125 wall. That would be pretty heavy but I think a Wisconsin engine would have no problem with it and it would be durable. I do not know if it is available in copper ... that may take some looking. The sizes of my fittings were an educated guess... the outside diameter of 1-1/4 inch pipe is smaller than the 1-3/4 diameter of my tubing so I was taking a chance that I could bore the pieces out and still have enough wall thickness left. As it is, it worked but you'll have to take a bunch of measurements to figure out if you can do it with a larger tube. I'd mismeasured something and the measurement I ended up with is just about perfect... but I still have a very expensive piece of 2" brass tube left over!
  11. 1 point
    I might had adlibed a little ? but don't remember I was just floating off the ground :] --kyle
  12. 1 point
    John Kruse = wonderful person who I have known for years. And, I endorse Worldwide Auctions http://www.worldwide-auctioneers.com too!
  13. 1 point
    There is another home in Phoenix available....
  14. 1 point
    Looks to be taken in 1925 as the sport touring cars on the stands in the back round all have black tops.
  15. 1 point
    Another view of a different car than the one you posted Stooge. The only reason I know it is a Roadmaster is that I have other photos of this car.
  16. 1 point
    You're one of the lucky ones. As his website states 'Posi's, I get them from time to time, call'
  17. 1 point
    Hi Gary, Don't know about anybody else but I am experiencing separation anxiety, its been almost three weeks since your last post! Cheers Paul
  18. 1 point
    I’ve had my car since I was a kid. Since then I’ve always looked for an alternative to adding positraction to my existing third member. NO ONE makes “new or reproduction parts” for our third member posi’s. I’m no mechanic by any means. But I think we can all agree that our third member posi’s are part of our driveline right? Well I finally ponied up & bought a posi. Guess from who? Yup...good ole Russ Martin Call me old school...even tho I’m not very old...but I am a “pick up the phone, say hello & ask” kind of guy. Websites are nice. But most guys in our hobby have hands in all sorts of things. Or can least point u in the right direction. So you never know who has what until we ask. Internet is awesome. But let’s get back to using the phone more often. No more judging books by the cover...or by the website in this case
  19. 1 point
    Em Tee, interesting. You may be on to something here. I read this morning an interesting thought from a respondent to a drive time article in the local paper. If all vehicle manufacturers were required to eliminate automatic transmissions and produce "only" 3 on the tree manual transmissions I wonder if it would save lives by eliminating or at least reducing texting time?". Peter J.
  20. 1 point
    Heres an excerpt ( in italics) from my 322 rebuild illustrating Willies point. My rebuild was of a running engine. The original valve train clacked pretty good - not quite as loud as yours and there was some play in the system because the lifters were frozen from sitting for so long in "the barn". I replaced with 56 push rods and lifters and everything got very quiet. During the rebuild and upon making this measurement I found some out of spec conditions. Depending on what parts were new/reused (I didn't go back and check your post) note that valve seat depth (if you had the heads worked), valve face material removed if the valves were ground, and valve stem height can result in play (if too much material removed inconsistently across the 16 valves that the lifter can't make it up resulting in no preload) in a fixed geometry pushrod/lifter/rocker assembly. If you are not sure what the rebuilder did go through and make this measurement and observe the final height which would reflect all the part tolerances. In my case the swapping a few valves around got it back to spec. When all the parts in this car were new and GM factory parts, it was less likely to run into this. If you don't have adjustable push rods and some of the parts are "overworked", there is nothing to take up the tolerance stack of an out of spec condition. Replace the suspect parts. The "system" will "depend" on everything measuring out properly. 1/8" slop between the pushrod and lifter is wrong if all the lifters are pumped up - if I'm understanding your post correctly. Progress update and lessons learned: 1) Write these numbers in your shop manual from Willies post and make these measurements. They are important unless you have adjustable pushrods or rocker arms and hard to find elsewhere valve stem height: 1.525 to 1.550 measured (in inches) from valve cover rail (base on where valve cover sits on head) to valve stem tip. valve stem clearance in guide: 0.0025 inlet 0.0030 exhaust Check all the valve stem heights. Having been the second time these heads were worked, we had 4 of them that were out of spec due to varying seat depths and the fact that the intake valves were reused. Swapping shortest to longest positions fixed 2 of the valves, milling a little off the stem of one, and the seat of the other fixed the other 2. All now meet spec. This measurement is important as it will affect lifter preload, valve spring installed height, and rocker arm position on the stem. (unless you provide for adjustment somewhere) Attached picture of measurement method to base of head: Think this link will work - go to page 2 about part way down and check the photo - Two other things to check for - ensure the valve guides are not sitting too high in the head, and ensure the valve springs aren't binding (fully compressed to solid when valve is open). Both those scenarios crept up on us during the project and we caught them through measurements before assembly was complete. Also agree with others observations - sounds like a miss at the exhaust pipe. Put a piece of cardboard or something over the tailpipe and leave a small opening between the cardboard and pipe tip to listen to the exhaust flow - should be steady with no regular "puffs". Some occasional irregular puffs are fine. Good luck
  21. 1 point
    contact Don: Don Axelrod 35 Timson St, Lynn , MA 01902-1824 781-598-0523 Headlight guy headlights hdlthqtrs@aol.com
  22. 1 point
    Congratulations Pete. These cars are very comfortable cruisers. A common problem with these cars are the bumper fillers. They are prone to cracking and/or breaking with age. If yours are original, they may be brittle by now. The sport steering wheel is a nice option to have and I believe it could be had as a stand alone item. I have seen some cars converted to dual exhaust but not sure if anyone supplies a kit. Any good exhaust shop can easily fabricate a dual system. Are you looking to do a cat back system? Depending on where you live, some states don't allow the removal of a catalytic converter if the car was originally manufactured with one. I would encourage you to join the Riviera Owners Association if you are not already a member. Not many parts are being reproduced for this era Riviera but mechanical parts are fairly easy to source. The rear bumper shouldn't be too difficult to find. A good upholstery shop should be able to take care of your headliner. These were glued in place and the glue dried out with age which caused the material to separate and sag in places. This is very common in a GM car from this era but can be fixed. Good luck and post some pictures if you can.
  23. 1 point
    For goodness sakes, if not just drive them to where they want them for a couple hours judging day. The rest of the time park wherever the h**l you want! Ben
  24. 1 point
    But you were probably not around when this was the trend. Takes you back to some good time if you lived in this era. Scallops, side pipes, wide whites, Lancers. Skirts, dual rear mount antennas, custom grill, shaved handles. SWEET. Peggy Sue would be all over you just to give her a ride in it. You'd probably not like the interior either if you could see it. Probably red or white roll and pleat with contrasting piping.
  25. 1 point
    Kyle, More rear wood details. Maybe someone with a roadster has more photos to share? Hugh