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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Adjusted brakes, valves & lubed before moving the 13 Buick Touring car out to the street in front of the house. Left it running to close the shop door and it ran out of gas. Had to clear the plugged fuel line (all the crud collected in the line when it ran out of gas) before driving three miles to get it filled with real gas (no ethanol). Still need to make final adjustments to the brakes so she is ready for the Yosemite tour next month.
  2. 5 points
    Why ruin the car with a swap like that? Go unique - go original and rebuild the original engine.
  3. 4 points
    Hello all. Im the guy with the project Riv. No we did not weigh anything for before and after. Yes I started with a nice car because the end result is always better that way. I did not have the heart to modify a GS though. I don't plan on doing any autocross or racing, just driving it. I usually do Hot Rod Power Tour and also do Good-Guys tours. These tours are usually 1500-2000 miles. Having something with a modern drivetrain makes these tours alot more fun. The engine is the same as I have in a Camaro and it makes over 900 hp and TQ on 93 octane. In the Camaro I get between 17-20 mpg with the ac on. The LS engines are so good it makes road trips much less stressfull. I used to always be watching gauges etc. Now they are a non issue. Yes a stock Riv will cruise just fine but won't perform how I want it to. My friend Mark Stielow is babysitting the project. If you google him you will see he is one of the top ride and handling engineers at GM. My plan is to keep the orig. white paint and black interior. I believe the orig drivetrain will go to a friend that wants to drag his Dads 63 Riv out of a junkyard and get it together to give his Dad a ride in it. I do appreciate stock condition cars also. Here is my 66 Bonneville.
  4. 3 points
    Yep! Again, thanks for all the messages and comments. I will try to pursue this adventure as well as I can! I’m now towards the end of the paint problem corrections. It was most probably my own fault: To correct irregularities, I’m using a sprayable filler. As I prefer to remove unnecessary materiel than sand and respray again, I’m spraying 2 or 3 coats of that product. When this filler is too thick, it creates tiny pores. Before my eye intervention, I did not see them. Now, I’m more careful: one coat and usually it’s enough. Sometimes too much is worse than not enough. I had to redo the color coat at the door and trunk entrances. I still have the RH front fender to correct; I’m glad it’s soon over! In between, I did the wires for the battery and starter motor as well as the lines for the power steering. Yesterday, I could pick-up the chromed letters and began soon to separate each letter from its brass base. As I expected, it’s not easy: the chrome did a bridge between the base and the letter; that bridge is rather strength and the letters small…All went rather well until the last letter was to be removed: it went in the air and I could not find it immediately. I searched for about ½ hour and gave up. Later that day, I searched on another floor’s surface and I saw it! The chromed bridge had to be removed manually with a sanding wheel held with the fingers and with a Japanese cutter. Now, they are ready to be attached!
  5. 3 points
    I live in Winchester, send me contact information, and when I can see the car. I can do it first thing tomorrow (Thursday) or during the day Friday. I've bought and sold about 200 cars so can give you a good idea of what the condition of car is.... david.coco@comcast.net
  6. 3 points
    The big Packard engine is one hell of an engine and it seems as if it would be a whole lot easier just to rebuild your engine or find another one. The torque tube drive makes any modification of the suspension a real iffy project. There would probably be endless headaches and redesigns in the process. All SBC projects are not a piece of cake.
  7. 3 points
    I like to put one of these between the ground strap and frame when working on the cables.
  8. 3 points
    Are you sure the original engine is toast? Even if it is locked up there is a good chance a careful mechanic can get it running. How many miles on the car? There are 2 ways to go, one way is to fill the cylinders with penetrating oil or auto trans fluid thinned with kerosene and let it soak a couple of weeks, the other way is to take the heads off and inspect the inside of the motor. Of course the first method is easier and cheaper but you could inadvertently damage the engine. The second is safer but more work and will cost you for gaskets etc. I would at least try the oil soak method as it costs almost nothing and you never know your luck. If it is a nice car worth spending money on and you want to save the motor, taking the heads off is safer. Have you ever done an engine swap before? This is a tough one. The torque tube rear axle with coil springs would require re engineering the whole rear suspension. It would be easier to buy another Packard V8 and rebuild it, they are not that rare even though they were only made for 2 years. You could move up from the original 320 cu in to a 352 or even a 374. Suggest you ask the Nash club, I am sure someone has run into this before.
  9. 3 points
    hi guys, my name is Pascal and i lve in France. my baby is a 55 Buick Special 4 doors hardtop. And with my wife and kids, we have three old caravans ( 2 french : Notin Chaumière 1956, and Notin Vedette 1964 / and the third one is a belgium one : Constructam Coral 1971 ) here are some pictures i hope you will like ... our 55 Buick Special with our french caravan Notin Chaumière 1956 our 55 Buick Special with our french caravan Notin Vedette 1964 our 55 Buick Special with our Belgium caravan Constructam Coral 1971
  10. 2 points
    1935 Lincoln K Series 541 Sedan Chassis no. K4223 Motor no. K4223 150 bhp, 414 cu. in. L-head V-12, three-speed manual transmission, front and rear semi-elliptic leaf springs with full floating rear axle, and Bendix four-wheel power-assisted drum brakes. Wheelbase: 136 in. In 1935 Lincoln moved the coachwork on its 145-inch and 136-inch chassis forward by several inches, offering an improved ride and lower center of gravity. The Series 541 represented the shorter 136-inch wheelbase and as such was used for two-door and close-coupled four-door bodies like this lovely sedan. Only 170 examples of this two-window, five-passenger Style 543 were produced. According to a copy of its Lincoln Automobile Record supplied by The Benson Ford Research Center, this car chassis K4223 was shipped Feb 18, 1935 and was originally finished in Paris Grey. It’s history is quite interesting, having always been a well-kept Massachusetts car from new and owing to its thoughtful caretakers even retains all of its original interior. Fortunately, its story can be told thanks to an original Massachusetts vehicle registration document which identifies an E. Pardee from the affluent beach community of Harwich Port, Cape Cod. Genealogical research reveals this owner to be Edith Pardee, a lady whose father was a notable coal baron from Hazleton, Pennsylvania and also one of the founders of Lafayette College. Miss Pardee visited Hazleton often so it is likely that many miles were accrued on trips between the Cape and Eastern Pennsylvania. In 1946 Miss Pardee passed at the age of 83 and her Lincoln, barely a decade old, likely remained locally for some time thereafter. In the 1950s or 1960s it was acquired by Daniel Baird Wesson II, great-grandson of the inventor and firearms manufacturer of Smith & Wesson fame. Under Wesson’s ownership it was reportedly stored in a warehouse behind the Roosevelt Avenue S&W factory in Springfield where Wesson family members kept personal property. After leaving S&W in 1963, he founded his namesake Dan Wesson Arms in 1968. Around this time it was acquired by well-known parts purveyor Nelson B. Pease of Palmer, who collected the car from Wesson at the warehouse. Pease sold it to John Brill of Westfield. Under Brill’s ownership the car was cosmetically restored in its current shade of Ascot Maroon and it remained with his family for the ensuing five decades. Amazingly the interior remains 100% original, owing to the good care and service it received under a small number of conscientious owners. The odometer records 76,000 original miles, and the car has recently been cosmetically detailed as well as having received a basic mechanical service and inspection. Starts easily, runs great, drives nicely. The sale of this car is accompanied by copies of its delivery documentation, early registration record, biographical information on the Pardee family, as well as a photo from the 1960s showing its excellent condition at the time. Mrs. Pardee’s Lincoln represents exceptional value as a multi-cylinder CCCA Full Classic and would be a wonderful entry-level tour car. Located in Smithfield, RI and the price is $39,500 for a quick sale. Full photos here: http://www.tomlaferriere.com/listings/1935-lincoln-k-541-sedan
  11. 2 points
    Let us please put this thread to rest. We've learned from it, I'm sure, and the people involved in the accident would surely love to be going forward with their lives.
  12. 2 points
    Not preaching here, when troubleshooting I did recommend connecting ground from battery directly to starter motor. Use completely different positive and negative leads. This is how you eliminate potential causes without guesswork. Use known good cables from another vehicle so you don't have to spend more money. I learned this from experience , the hard way. When grounding directly to the frame , a good ground "strap" should be used between the frame and starting motor in a permanent installation. Current should never flow through driveline or other components where bearings could be damaged from current flow.Care must be given that paint and other coatings do not interfere with having 100% connections which are very important especially on 6 volt systems. I'm willing to bet it something really simple. Its frustrating. Walk away , ponder it then try again.
  13. 2 points
    1st, I'd like to thank all the help & technical knowledge provided by Gene Guarnere, Dick Sweeney, and Tom Mooney these last three yrs, as well as, many other 65 Riv GS Buick owners & part suppliers. From the start, my goal was not to 100% replicate how this iconic RivGS came off the assembly line, but rather take Billy Mitchell's vision of European styling from Ferrari and Rolls-Royce and transform a Post WWII American production line car into "timeless elegance." Our goal was to create a hand-built, B-Body Buick, who's Fit & Finish would rival some of the most iconic Pre-WWII European & American cars. So yes, in order to break "glass ceilings" in concours circles or the International Show Car Association (ISCA) series, we deliberately made several minor deviations to enhance the "Fit & Finish" in order to give the car's exterior or engine compartment a much more elegant presentation. When judged, we openly disclose these inspection points to educate the judges and ensure others are not affected by our deviations. We always identify this is an over restored car, all but two deviation can easily be reversed if one desires. I have meet and helped many Buick Riviera owners on the show trail this past year, and have identified how we did some facets of the restoration differently, as well as we have a thank you sign posted in the display to Gene Guarnere, AB&G "Gene, sorry I got nervous during filming and mispronounced your last name." Too the best of our knowledge, many judges & writers on the show trail, we are the 1st B-Body Buick to earn the ISCA 2018 Restored Category Championship, earn Detroit Autorama 2018 - Best Restored Car, earn Boga Raton Concours 2018 - Essence of Design Award, and Radnor Hunt Concours 2017 - Timeless Elegance Award. All awards aside, the three best things that came out of this build were; were finding & saving what many claim is the most historically significant 65 RivGS that GM build, all the new friendships & bonds that have been created across North America, and the growing respect B-Body Buick's have gained through this concours restoration & showing these last two years. Almost forgot to address the tri-band white wall tires. Both Dick and Tom provided excellent details on both the Goodyear and Firestone tire. I to prefer the Goodyear tire, however the only off the shelf bias ply tire that was the closest dimension size, had a scalloped designed sidewall, thus we had to replicate the Firestone tire. If anyone has questions on tire, call Bill Chapman at Diamondback Tires. All our Best, Col Andy Starr - USMC Ret Owner: 1965 RivGS 1 of 1 Samoan Bronze
  14. 2 points
    You guys may have already seen these but while looking for wheels for my car look what I found. US Mag is making plus size road wheels. I'm thinking a set of 18" would look pretty sweet. No price is shown so I'm betting the per wheel price may scare me off.
  15. 2 points
    Gresham, OR... 1969 Riviera for sale. I'm helping my step father sell his collection of riv parts and his 3 rivs. He's moving onto other things in his later years. For more info about the parts collection and other rivs, please see the Life collection of 69 Rivieras and parts up for sale thread. This is a driver car my step father built for driving. Not a show car, but something he would drive for pleasure, day trips, etc. Has posi lock. His starting asking price is $20k. Please contact me with any questions, offers, etc. Happy to take additional pictures or schedule an in person viewing for serious inquiries.
  16. 2 points
    Here is a picture of the original. Notice it is curved at the bottom
  17. 2 points
    I would say they are not aware of the value of a 1931 Cadillac Cabriolet. Worth much more as an original restored car then any configuration they could conceive of as a rodded or customized car. Sad.
  18. 2 points
    OK, there is something basic that has changed in the course of the engine rebuild... let's try and track it down. We need to be thorough and methodical here. (In this part of the world, earth = ground. I can't help myself!) Before you started, the car started properly and ran with the current starter motor and battery and wiring. This tells us the starter wires and earths are big enough and haven't been replaced with smaller ones. There should be nothing wrong with the starter either. The pedal connections to the starter should not have changed and still operate as they did. You removed all the engine add-ons - starter-gen, water pump, manifolds and carb, fan, distributor, and so on then removed the engine. None of those extras that might affect the starter motor spinning the engine has had anything done to it, other than being reconnected. No new wiring? So the earth wires. The battery is earthed to the chassis and the connection is on clean steel. Is the terminal connected to the wire properly? If it is an old one, they can corrode and have high resistance but carry the volts to register the right amount on a meter. What about the other ends of the wires at the battery: are they clean and the terminal connections to the wires clean? What about the wire from the chassis to the engine? Same questions. Clean, paint-free connections plus the wire-terminal connections are clean and of low resistance? And the starter motor earth is through its mount onto the engine? Are those connections paint free, on clean steel?
  19. 2 points
    Cleaning to bare metal does not guarantee an adequate ground to the starter. Jumper cables to your original battery does not mean you have enough cranking amps to turn the engine. Please listen to at least some of the suggestions you are getting. Previously you were ready to pull the engine apart and we saved you from that. We know the starter works without load. We know the problem is not the tight engine. Go with what you know and never assume, that will only paint you into a corner!
  20. 2 points
    No biggie. Nothing special about them. Measure the pad, add the distance from the mount bottom to the floor or top of the rear kick up and add an inch. Or.........Mount the body and measure. Again, easy peasy. Did you save the body mount shims? Likely they won't go back the same. Mount the body and shim as required to get to best average level on the frame and call it good to go. Just like they did at the factory................Bob
  21. 2 points
    Sebastienbuick, did you happen to see this thread? http://forums.aaca.org/topic/306653-life-collection-of-69-rivieras-and-parts-up-for-sale/?tab=comments#comment-1714194 The disk brake rotors in this picture caught my eye... If they are 1969 Riviera rotors maybe they are the same as the ones that you need for your Electra?
  22. 2 points
    That’s a nice pair of playmates you have there, Rodney. Here’s mine
  23. 2 points
    John Q. Public doesn't care. Most people would see that "Packard" and think it was a real antique car and would take the owner's word for it that it was a 1934 Packard. Things like that offend my eye, but I don't whether that's because I pay attention or because I have spent my life with real old cars. I think the general public has neither of those advantages and therefore anything out of the ordinary is extraordinary, no matter how crappy it is to people who know.
  24. 2 points
    I just wish someone would take the damn valve cover off and listen!
  25. 2 points
    Modifying the original car and getting it right would take a hell of a lot of work and engineering savvy but not as much as gutting the car like a trout and fitting a junkyard pickup truck chassis. I suppose such a hodge podge could be made to go down the road under its own power but it would be a hell of a mess. It would be better and cheaper to rebuild or replace the original engine, by far.
  26. 2 points
    Rear end successfully removed - Ben, Willie and others were correct - it was a binding problem. The only other addition I would make to suggestions is to remove the rear wheels to allow plenty of room to raise/lower the rear end sufficiently to get the motor/gearbox/rear end on a straight plain. This will be influenced as well by year/model and body style - on the 1948 sedanette the rear end had to be dropped low to achieve the straight line between all components. Thanks again to all the knowledgeable people on this forum.
  27. 2 points
    Maybe not a camping trailer, but its atleast pulling A trailer! '37 Century that I've had saved in my cache
  28. 2 points
    It is a 1931 and one of the finest restorations I have ever seen. As to it being driven from Florida to the Northeast I don't think so! This owner has other cars and does in fact drive them extensively. This was the first time out for the car as it was fresh out of restoration.
  29. 2 points
    Just came back from a 60 mile drive... I am speechless. She pulls now like a freight train, no more smoke out of the exhaust, idles like a sewing machine, gear shifts are so smooth, you can hardly feel them. The Bilstein, comparing to Gabriel and Monroe, are night and day. For a car of this size, they work wonders. Much more stable, with a comfortable sport feel. I still have a slight squeak from the left front spring, but nothing like before. Springs will be next.
  30. 2 points
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Back in the old days, I would DA the car with 180 grit paper, tack off and spray one coat of non sanding primmer-sealer and then three coats of enamel, all in one day. ($80.00 please, thank you) You could DA a whole car with 400 grit, tack it, and spray a non sanding primmer-sealer and then top coat it. It will be a good looking 30/30 finish* that won't peel off. *(30 feet at 30 mph) In your specific case, tack it , spray the non sanding primmer-surfacer and then the top coats. You could spray one or two extra top coats so that you could buff out some small defects later. Not every paint job has to meet everybody else's standards. Buffing a new bad paint job always makes it look better because it removes the new look and the criticism from the "know it all's."
  33. 1 point
    Hossrod, I need a very good condition gas pedal set also! I spotted at least two in one of your photos! :-)
  34. 1 point
    I have good clean battery connections on the battery.I cleaned the ground cable and cleaned the connection to the frame to bare metal and replaced the grounding bolt with a new one the terminal also was replaced with a new one.The motor has never had a separate ground it is only grounded to the negative terminal of the battery.I am thinking of putting a separate ground to the engine.I totally rewired the car a couple of years ago and all wires are new and have good tight connections.
  35. 1 point
    Really a shame to turn a 31 Caddy that looks this sound into a "rod"
  36. 1 point
    Holy crap, that very '57 Chevy is sitting in my showroom right now! That's my photo, taken of my car, in my studio. They even left my license plate visible on the back of the car. I've been thinking about putting a watermark on our photos, maybe that would cut down on this kind of nonsense. Note that it does not have power windows nor a cassette player... On the other hand, if you're dumb enough to fall for this kind of trick, perhaps you're a hard learner who needs to get burned before you understand that the stove is hot.
  37. 1 point
    Matthew, many thanks for your help. Looking forward to posting some pics of the refurbished bracket. ????? And all the photos have helped so much. Buick with such a engineering marvel, it wasn’t too hard to opt for the original bracket rather than try to make one. cheers Rodney ?????
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    You may notice that the "Reatta Resources" topic in the Buy/Sell forum has been replaced with a new "Reatta Parts Vendors" topic. I made that change to make it clear where our list of parts vendors can be found. The vendor information in same as what was in the Reatta Resources topic. The Reatta Resources topic is still here in the Reatta forum and has not been changed.
  40. 1 point
    1929 Packard 6-40 Rollston Touring Barn Find. Here is a video of the car being pulled out of the garage. The picture of this car in black was posted on October 1953 in Motor Trend. Color was changed to white at some point. The body is aluminum. Front seating has a pass through. There is a windscreen that pulls out the back passenger seat, it is adjustable. The firewall data plate dealer name is PMCCO. New York dated 5-1-29. This is a very interesting car.
  41. 1 point
    I've been thinking this over and if I had to replace the rear axle with an open drive line it might be easier to put in an independent rear suspension out of a Jaguar. The Jag unit comes out as an assembly in its own cage. You would have to remove the old rear axle assembly completely, cut out the unibody above the axle area and box it in again, and build mounts for the IRS but it could be done. It sure would not be cheap but might be better and cheaper than designing and building a whole rear suspension system from scratch. I am NOT suggesting you do this, just throwing it out as an idea.
  42. 1 point
    He has no gear,correct me if I am wrong,As far as a fiber gear.i doubt that,,Not arguing but I thought the fiber gears started in the 60s
  43. 1 point
    Wow, that's A LOT of car for the money. [checks wallet] Dang.
  44. 1 point
    As much as I love the pre war cars in stock form, I've always been a big customs guy! From some pictures from the Chicago world of Wheels, chopped and nailhead powered, although im a little indifferent on what they did with the grille
  45. 1 point
    I don't think this is new, out and about today, saw many Chevrolet's with no name, maybe a truck but all the cars and SUVs did not say Chevrolet on them and this is where they were born, so read some more articles, the new generation can't read, they like "logos" LOL!!!!
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    The part of the hobby that the price of fuel has an affect on is participation. That really applies to pulling a trailer X,000 of miles to go play some of those on a fixed income might be forced to think about it. When I take one out for a ride the cheapest part of the day is gas in the tank.
  48. 1 point
    My 39 Buick special. Out on a short drive.
  49. 1 point
    Please excuse me being shamefully late, but... ... Thanks, the same... and - Happy & Successfull Year 2018!
  50. 1 point
    John. looks like the original fittings though......at least they didn't toss them...those are similiar to mine, but just ought to be under the vinyl.