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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/27/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    It was such a nice day here that its' hard believe that it is still winter! I was doing quite a number of errands, so I used the Reatta all day, and put about 75 miles on it. The AC even came on after it was parked in the sun for a while this aft. At that point my wife was with me and I wanted to put the top down, but she thought it was still too cold, which it was, really, but it does have a good heater. Also, a couple of shots showing the garage, and the area behind it. It is 24 feet wide, 40 feet long. As you can see, there is a large space above the parking area, which is 18-20 feet wide in side. The two tall trees are at the property line. So there is space for more garage! According to the area planner she says that I can get the permit to build as well. Hope she's right, or at least still there when I come in with the plans. Keith
  2. 3 points
    If I might make a couple of observations: - It seems peculiar that the long shaft would be designed to have a slight taper or a such a small step (.753" to .749"). - Parts were generally designed using common dimensions (½" rather than .491" or .506", etc.). Taken together one might consider the possibility that the long shaft is .750" and the larger diameter section is 1.125"; any deviations are due to sloppy machining and/or age. And a suggestion: It isn't necessary to duplicate this part exactly. This shaft is part of a system (the shaft and the bushings); the goal is to get the whole thing squared away. And yes, it is quite possible that your efforts will (simply by being attentive) give you something that is better than new. As such, I'd suggest the if the shaft OD is .750", the bushing ID should be .751" - .7515". Similarly, if the OD of a shaft section is 1.125", the ID of the surrounding bushing should be 1.1265" - 1.127". I have no idea if it's feasible to replace the bushings, but if it is, one might strongly consider pressing in new ones of the proper dimensions. If the dimensions you give for the "worn in" bushings (e.g. .764" ID) are what you have now, those are excessively worn and sloppy. It would be bad practice to leave those as is unless there is no reasonable option to replace them. In that case, you might consider turning the shaft a bit oversize to fit the bushings (.763" and 1.125", respectively). Even at that, there's no assurance that the old bushings are round. Dimensions for an interference fit for the drive hub should be readily available. Since the drive hub ID is .749", that correlates nicely with a reasonable .001" interference fit on a .750" shaft. However, there isn't any reason for an interference fit between those parts; a slip fit and the taper pin should hold the drive hub in place. So, perhaps the end of the shaft would be turned slightly smaller. Similarly, if the gear hub is held in place by a key and threaded bolt, it seems unusual to have it be a press fit as well. Again, one might think a slip fit would be adequate. If the gear hub ID is .860", that might lead you to a shaft OD of ~.859". If you want to get these exact, you might consider reaming both the drive hub and gear hub to known dimensions that are perfectly round (or rebushing both and reaming), then turning the shaft ends to the corresponding diameter (but be careful that the drive hub end isn't too big to slip though the bushings, or you'll have to rethink the whole long part of the shaft and its bushings). I guess the bottom line is this: it is likely possible to design and fabricate this assembly to higher standards and tighter tolerances than the original. The decision might come down to whether one should make the "adjustments" on the shaft (e.g. changing the OD at crucial points), the bushings (e.g. changing the ID), or both. Convention would be to hold the shaft at a "standard" diameter (e.g. .750") and set the ID of mating parts according to purpose (e.g. .751/2" for a slip fit or bushing; .749" for an interference fit, etc.). Perhaps there are other factors in this particular application that make that approach untenable. Specifically, would it be reasonable to require that the impeller or a hub be reamed to accommodate this "standard" shaft? If you enlarge the ID of the impeller or hub to fit the new shaft, you may have also rendered those parts unsuitable for use on a different shaft. Is that a trade-off you're willing to make? If it isn't, maybe you do have to deviate from the "standard" so that your new shaft will be compatible with standard parts and other engines.
  3. 2 points
    In my opinion, the best stuff to use is Permatex Ultra Grey. That is what GM was using when I worked for them and it is about the only thing that I personally use. I agree with a thin paper gasket and some of the Ultra Grey on both sides to fill in any gaps.
  4. 2 points
    The older they are, the more addictive they are.
  5. 2 points
    That's what the Jake Brake is for
  6. 2 points
    These are grille ornaments for the '42-'48 and 49 Buicks. The subtle differences between the '47's dark red metal field and the simpler, brighter plastic of the '48 are easy to see. Also the solid chromey objects in the latter's red field, versus the '47's gold-toned trimmed in chrome. TG
  7. 2 points
    Dont you mean the rear end results ?
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Finally found and bought a 4-way power seat that will fit my car from a very kind gentleman out in Washington state. Everything seems to be there but unsure of the condition of the mounting feet which seem to have some damage. Nonetheless, very excited. Thank you.
  11. 2 points
    I suspect the lack of response so far is due to low forum traffic over the weekend. You can always tell a low traffic period when there are no posts on "Girls on Buicks" or from Gary with his '37 thread. Still interested in any knowledge someone might have on the spring clutch plate...
  12. 2 points
    Those brakes are manually adjusted. Adjustment directly affects pedal height. Check the reservoir and make sure you can see some fluid in there. Also, if the fluid is over 2 years old, I would go ahead and change it. It may need to be bled anyway because the pedal is low. To change fluid, suck the fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new, then just keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean. Start at the brake furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. If the system has been converted to silicone then you probably don't need to change fluid. If the fluid is conventional or synthetic it needs to be changed periodically to avoid corrosion damage to the system. Leaks can occur that do not drip on the floor. A master cylinder can leak internally. The fluid goes back into the reservoir. A sinking pedal is the usual symptom. Also, any cylinder can leak a tiny amount. This usually causes the brakes to stop working right away, because if fluid can go out, air can come in, and it only takes the tiniest amount of air to disable the system. To check a wheel cylinder for leakage, with the drum off, peel back the dust boot on the cylinder. Don't take it clear off, just lift it a little bit at the bottom. do both dust boots. No fluid should drip out of there. If any fluid drips out, that cylinder needs to be rebuilt.
  13. 1 point
    41-9 -- 4.55-1 The largest circumference 550/19 tires I could find. Approx 2900 revs at 60 mph. According to the optimum piston feet per second travel (1200) optimum speed for the engine is 40 mph. 400,000 miles (3 engine overhauls and 3 C&Ps) since becoming my daily driver in 1959. 99,000 miles when my Grandfather gave me the car. Going from 475/500/19 tires made quite a difference.
  14. 1 point
    Maybe I'll catch Metz envy soon...
  15. 1 point
    Then be prepared to tear it apart when you still don't have pressure while turning it over. Something is wrong and nows the time to fix it.
  16. 1 point
    Sssssmmmmmmoooooooottttttttthhhhhhhhhh is what a Dynaflow should be! It was designed to not have a gear change. The Hydramatics of the day had a distinct shift. Buick wanted none of that! It does the torque mutiplying through the 5 piece torque converter. I can tell you, having driven a 56 Special in my youth, the accelerator pedal activates the pitch change in the torque converter by mechanical means when it approaches "floored" position. The linkage does not care what "gear" is selected, moving the accelerator will change the pitch of the vanes. So, it DOES HAVE passing gear in Low and Reverse shift positions! Make sure you have lots of space when you test that in Reverse! It is fun. You can win some bets with the "My car has passing gear in Reverse".
  17. 1 point
    Hello everyone, here are some pictures of this weekend :). so I started to make a new support. for that I proceed step by step. I first made the bottom part, the top and a band that goes around the support. then I cut the part of the floor of the box or was to fix the support. I then cut the two liners that remain on the wheel well and on the floor of the trunk. I then grind the rust on the wheel arch and I applied rust-proof (acid-based); it's a product that blocks the pores of the metal and prevents the metal from breathing and thus oxidizing. Originally the lining was pointing to the wheel arch, so I made holes in my new lining to weld the two pieces together. next week end I will finish welding the second liners and the rest of the pieces that I made.
  18. 1 point
    Hi all, am picking up my 1938 Buick Series 40 this week end and will be taking a lesuirely drive back home (about 500miles.) Can members advise me what tyre pressures they usually run on a trip like this? It is all bitumen highway, with speed limits up to 100 and 110 kilometres per hour. Was thinking to run it at about 50-55mph on the speedo, with several stops on the way to check things out, and for fuel, food, etc. Any advice will be good for owners who have driven that sort of distance in one of these Buicks. regards Rodney
  19. 1 point
    I once had a beautiful original '57 Buick with the Dynaflow. It had less than 20K miles from new, and drove and looked like a new car. This was in the late 1970's, so it wasn't even that old then! I took it on a tour, and a fellow fell in love with it. He later called me, asked if it was for sale, I said sure, and he came over to test drive it. As mentioned, there's no discernible shift point. He got all upset, asked me why I didn't tell him the transmission was bad, he wouldn't have wasted his time. I tried to explain the concept of the Dynaflow, but he wasn't buying it, figuratively or literally, and left, mad at me. Sheesh.....
  20. 1 point
    Building a garage and restoring a car are very similar. Always over time and budget........and when the wife asks, you tell her you only have one third in it of your actual cost.
  21. 1 point
    Been super busy doing some remodeling to our bedroom so I’ve been spending all my free time finishing that up. I did start to make up a painting rack for the wheels so I wouldn’t hold up the paint shop. I moved off the running boards for now to get the rack done. Using a hole saw, I bored so plugs out of 2x6 pieces. Put a long 1/4-20 bolt through the center and put some washers and a nut to hold it. Chucked each one in the lathe and turned them to the proper diameter to fit just snug in the hub. I cut a relief in the plug so the inside of the hub would get painted. Cut out 6- 7” circles out of 1/2” ply and bored a 1/4” hole in the center. Using a 1/4” bolt to center the ply circle on turned plug, I then screwed the ply down to the back of the plug. Fitting the plug in the back of the wheel hub, I drilled 1/8” holes through the ply in the center of three lug nut holes. Turned some dowels down to match the lug hole diameter and screwed them to the ply. The plug with the plate and dowels securely holds the wheels but still allows for all the areas that need to be painted without any issues. The wheels are evenly spaced, every other, so the backs of the wheels are easily accessed for painting and the wheels never need to be touched until dry. Of course they rotate on the EMT tubing so painting all six wheels at one time should be easy. The rack frame was made a while back by me for hanging parts I was painting here in my own garage. I just added a couple 2x4s and drilled through them to secure the EMT. Will finish the rack up tomorrow and drop it off at the paint shop.
  22. 1 point
    Two of those suitcases would be just enough to restore a “barn find” Buick if it was all hundreds.
  23. 1 point
    You guys should have been around in the 50's and early 60's when GM was trying to remove static from their cheap radios. Buick Sonomatic radios never seemed to have any trouble but Chev and Pontiac were often terrible. The worst cars were the v8 Corvettes. They had condensers, static thingies and shrouding around the distributors. Many tune up guys and mechanics could never seem to get the shrouds back properly and of course we were working with the early carbon core wire. What a mess. Thank God for FM.
  24. 1 point
    I'm not sure that I quite qualify for driving my '41, but I started it up for the first time in a couple of months, pulled it out of the garage a few feet and drove it back in to give it a bit of exercise. It certainly was nice to sit in it and move it about! Keith
  25. 1 point
    Could not wait for the weekend. Still plying the roads like it is 1960.