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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    and some signs... Given the prices that old signs are selling for these days, I decided to go with having a few painted. The ones below were painted by a 85 year old sign painter from pictures and or smaller signs. An early 48" Sinclair HC sign. In 1926, Sinclair leapt ahead of most of its competitors with H-C, the industry's original high-octane premium gasoline for motorcars. The 72-octane auto fuel, developed at its Houston refinery, was better than anything then marketed (Lindbergh's flight to Paris the following year was on 73-octane gasoline). H-C stood for "Houston Concentrate," though some advertising men called it "High Compression." And one of my most favorite early script BUICK signs in 48" He also painted this NO PARKING and this BUICK AUTHORIZED SERVICE STATION signs Both of these are super rare and impossible to find in originals My friend Brad and I fabricated the sign stand from an old fan stand. Wrapped the flat iron around a barrel and clamped it, then welded it. Then cut a piece of flat plate in to a shape to hold the rim and welded it to the old stand. All of the others here below are store bought repros, a couple are getting hard to find though. And Elvis
  2. 3 points
    "drove the car about 20 or so miles before I began my work on it an it dosent seem to me that this transmission shifts at all , I put it in drive an it wont shift . but if I put it in low an pull out from a red light then manually shift it I feel a slight difference as it goes into drive " You have described exactly the way it is supposed to work. Sounds like all is normal. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
  3. 3 points
    A Dynaflow transmission doesn't change. The " L " is an EMERGENCY LOW which is selected manually and under normal driving conditions does not need to be engaged.
  4. 2 points
    Back in those days there was this nerdy kid who got followed home by cars. When I started dating my Hippy future Wife she threw away the shirts in the first two pictures. But I still have the glasses. Just noticed TerryB's truck. A few years ago I came down to Ephrata and did a capital asset audit in the nursing home. Nice town, still. Bernie
  5. 2 points
    I've always like this one of Los Angeles in 1941. This view is looking North on Westwood Blvd. at Wilshire Blvd. It looks "slightly" different today.
  6. 2 points
    Ran across these...a few of my favorite pictures of the brackets
  7. 2 points
    sorry I didn't take photos but we pulled the starter off and completely disassembled the starter and the solenoid. As it would turn out filling the solenoid and starter with Muddy coolant for years does not help it. (See replaced freeze plug a few months back.) Anyhow the internal contacts on both were very dirty and corroded. Thoroughly cleaned everything up, reassembled, and so far so good.
  8. 2 points
    The well known corroded headlight switch/ dash lights rheostat. Did not bother to clean it up. It was out in 5 minutes. Replaced same.
  9. 2 points
    Terry, It is not all that tight and it can be turned by the hand crank.The start gears were sticky feeling and I cleaned them and lubricated them and now they slide and spin freely like the should.At some point in this cars life the little casting that the starter pedal lever sits down in broke off and somebody made a repair using a small medal strip that they brazed one end and and used 2 small screws to mount it .The last time I had this same problem it was from to much freeplay in the starter pedal that wouldn't let the shaft com back far enough to mesh or let the brushes contact the armature.I took the piece out and carefully bent the end up taking all of the freeplay out and that fixed it . After checking it this morning I found an inch of freeplay in the starter pedal and the brushes not coming in contact with the armature.I think that in tearing the car down for the rebuild the heavy spring pressure on the starter pedal bent the piece a little bit as I was removing the pedal assembly.I think this will fix it I will keep everyone posted.One other thing on the engine being to tight I had a profesional racecar engine builder build me up a shortblock and he used a lot of assembly lube and I have lubed everythng real good before I put the pan on so I am hoping everything is going to be ok. With the plugs out I can turn the engine easily but with the plugs in it is more difficult like you would expect from the new compression.
  10. 2 points
    Been a long winter break , but uncovered Ruby today , dirty but all Ok ,3/4 hours on trickle charge started first time magic ! went and filled the tank didn’t really need it half full , but I had to have an excuse to take her out ? give her a thorough clean tomorrow, seems like the only cleaning job I enjoy ? be looking for good weather days now , great to be back on the road. cheers pilgrim
  11. 2 points
  12. 1 point
    Tim. I have 1930 model 70 George
  13. 1 point
    I have a length of flexible aluminium tubing which I connect up to the exhaust pipe and route to the outside so I can have the engine running in the garage. works a treat. Ray.
  14. 1 point
    My wife and kids get the signs for me. Birthday and Christmas.
  15. 1 point
    Back when I could not afford antifreeze (or just chose not to buy), i would drain the radiator after driving and then fill the next day. On one 10*F morning I filled with cold water that froze in the radiator after a few miles of pulling air through (chugga, chugga, gush!). The next day while the engine was running with an empty radiator I filled with boiling water (gush, splat, clunk went a block freeze plug). That's when I discovered the miracle of those rubber expanding plugs, since even under ideal conditions it is nearly impossible to replace a block plug on a nailhead. So the plugs will come out in freezing conditions, but you have to work at it!!
  16. 1 point
    If it is the solenoid, just replace or service that. Check that the solenoid is transferring 12v to the starter. If not the solenoid is bad; if 12v to the starter and no spin then the starter is bad.
  17. 1 point
    I deleted my prior post due to it's inappropriateness. I apologize to any of you that I offended. It was totally my mistake. I feel bad about that post, but worse yet for this fellow and family, and all the others who lost so much in the fires that seem to incessantly consume the West. I can only hope they find some comfort in saving themselves, and that the insurance companies treat them fairly.
  18. 1 point
    Looks like the rear of a 1949 Ford, to me.
  19. 1 point
    Thanks Dileep for your comments. I don't know Pere Terrago; there are many builders I ignore that they exist! Yep Randy: the upholstery is usually never quite right: the leather's grain is too coarse, this is evident especially on pictures. The body work is an on/off job, waiting that the surfacer is drying. I got a lot of issues; I don’t know they are the result of my eyesight or not enough time to let dry the products. During the drying time, I’m doing small jobs, like the belts for the engine. The Mark II with A/C has 3 belts; I did a mold for them by turning some wax. The end result is not what I expected; the Coltogum is too elastic to pretend to be a belt. I could find O rings with the proper length, but then they have a too large section. Then I did the antenna. In my opinion, the Mark II antenna is a bad design: when the antenna is fully retracted, the tip is still at 18” from the base. I choose to replicate the antenna when retracted; for that I took a pin and reduce the tip to be better, but not perfect, in scale. The “mast” is screwed into the base; it will be installed as a last item. You remember probably that the second tentative to have the letters “Continental” went bad. Now, I soft soldered each letter on a strip of brass with a minimum of solder; I hope that this tentative will be the last one. The letter “N” at the end of each word is a spare letter. The antenna base will get chromed too.
  20. 1 point
    Another picture of a Weymann Peerless.
  21. 1 point
    There was no gasket on my engine so I made sure the area was free of oil contamination then stuck A 1/4" strip of cork along the bottom of the valve chest. Being at the front, it holds back any oil that is swilling around on the "lands". Ray.
  22. 1 point
    At least, you must not deal with a regular replacement of the brake fluid!
  23. 1 point
    Following the rain this morning, I went out to the Farmers Branch Historical Park this afternoon and took a couple of photos in the sunshine. May be a couple of days till the Buick can go out to play again, since rain is in the forecast for several days. AACA meeting tomorrow, so maybe if the weather man is wrong, the Buick can get out sooner.
  24. 1 point
    Not sure why paper would be better for a daily driver. They clog. Is it a major inconvenience where you are to rinse the element and/or dispose of 1/2 quart of old oil? If so then maybe paper. You can take it out and toss it. If you drive a lot it an oil bath will need rinsing out. If you don't change the oil, eventually water will collect under it and cause rust pinholes in the bottom. I am wondering what paper possibly could have won at compared to oil bath. Flow? Oil bath generally has some restriction because of the air reversion that makes them work. Usually in air cleaner tests oiled fibers (cotton? like k&n) win by a landslide.
  25. 1 point