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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2018 in Posts

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
  3. 3 points
    Glad to see it has steering. That can be useful.
  4. 3 points
    Yes, that's correct, two small emblems front and back. I agree that the wings are pretty distracting from an otherwise timeless design. Just think, if it had the name on the hubcaps, you'd have all those unknowing people coming up to you at shows and saying "Hey, did you know they misspelled FORD on your hubcaps??
  5. 3 points
    A rainy day brought the Amish crew inside the shop. Finally, some notable progress is made. The paint booth gets some metal, the internal rooms get a ceiling, and the upstairs is framed. They work fast.
  6. 3 points
    During Lunch my boy came home too and saw what I had been up too. I was good there (for a change) and went back out to lower the front of the car. The rain started again but at least came down straight. Once the stands were out of the way I started looking for stuff under the back end as that long overhang of hers was actually raised quiet a bit with the rear stands in place making it easier. I had moved some plywood and panelling along the wall onto the side of the car looking for that first transmission so squeezed in there to move it back off the car. Before I moved them though I noticed the rad cradle and the inner fender / battery side and took it out as they would need to be moved anyway. Squeezing between the car with them and NOT scratching the paint is exactly why I need to pull the whole car out plus to be able to get at that broken rack you see. Some good stainless trim is still in there and don't need it bent. Guess I had sanded the rad cradle and put primer on it but if you look closely there is rust out on the right hand side that I didn't have fixed. Placed it resting on the frame for now and will see if my son will attempt some welding? (Not my thing) The Inner fender panel has the usual rust out on the battery box so maybe two projects for him... At this point I was able to drop the rear end. Suddenly the drivers door opens easier... Going to the back, posturing the next step? Cleaning up is mandated! Feeling a bit feverish by now I tried to roll her out a bit but... even with the transmission and engine out not an easy roller yet. Determined to get this done grabbed a ratchet strap and hooked up to the truck as an anchor. I got some movement and success! That was enough room to get me at the back and clean up some racoon treasures and insulation! ANYONE NEED RED 1978 VINYL TRUCK SEAT? It's going OUT! That was enough for today and enlisted help from my son to push her back into place for now. Tomorrow is supposed to be rain all day too but a bit colder. Need to get feeling better with that, the humidity and sweating (me too) is not a good thing for metal but happy about the progress today. Might have a hot toddy after supper...
  7. 3 points
  8. 2 points
    ’39 Buick Special 40 – Straight 8. 3 speed on the column. 4 door, 5 pass Touring Sedan. Under 65,000 miles. All original parts. Exterior in original Buick Gray. Excellent original mohair interior. New brakes and water pump. Starts, runs and drives great. Road ready. $9,400.00 St. Paul, MN, USA Contact through PM or profile email address.
  9. 2 points
    Where I live it's the bottle blonde millennials driving their Hyundai SUV's, who think they're driving a Mercedes around the Nurburgring, and act as though they're late to everything and have to explain why over their cell phone to anyone who'll listen. Headlights disappear in my rear view mirror thinking that if they push me I'll pull over, even though I'm already 10 over the speed limit trying to keep up with the flow of traffic and there's someone next to me in the other lane. That's when my right foot gets light and I slow to a speed that won't cause major damage if I get rear ended. Then by the grace of God they do get by me and wind up stopped at the next red light.
  10. 2 points
    First, the ONLY reason to buy a new carburetor is that you like shiny items. There are absolutely NO new carburetor produced today that will function as well on your BUICK as a worn-out original. Rebuild the original and there is absolutely no comparison. Not only will the originals seriously outperform the new stuff, everything fits, and if you (or your estate, if you are like me with your cars) sell it, the original will create a larger universe of potential buyers, AND a higher price. Even if you do not have an original, while not common as a 6-cylinder Chevy, they are NOT rare, and not expensive. I probably have 15~20 in inventory, and there are other vendors that should also have one. If you really wish a different than original carb, upgrades would include a Q-Jet calibrated for Buick (I would suggest a 1968~1970 version if you choose this option) or a Carter thermoquad (TQ) calibrated for the Buick engine. BOTH OF THESE OPTIONS REQUIRE CHANGING TO A SPREAD-BORE INTAKE MANIFOLD as Ed suggested above. The spread-to-square adapters are for used-car salesmen! ALL of the e-clones including the AVS are calibrated for small-block Chevy. How good are your tuning skills, and how much do you wish to spend on tuning parts? Jon.
  11. 2 points
    I've lived there for over 20 years. Well, that's a POS car with POS brakes. Apples and oranges. And that's the point: drum brakes aren't this monolithic technology wherein all applications are created equal. Put front discs on a 64 Chevy and you'll see noticeable improvement. Of course, you'd also get better performance from 12" drums. Given that the Riviera starts with those 12" drums, the difference between those drums and discs is much smaller. And that's what folks are saying: when you're talking about incremental improvements, it needs to be a significant increment to be worthwhile. For many of us, that increment isn't large enough to justify the time, effort, and expense. Nothing is that black and white man. I live in a world of "driving is their next skill" drivers. You wanna talk about folks pulling out in front of you? Try dealing with roads full of Asian women in minivans. Just the other day I'm going down a 6-lane road and the car in the left lane hangs a right turn across traffic while the car in the right lane is cutting across two lanes to turn left. Keep your eyes open, leave space in front of you, and watch your mirrors so you know your evasion options. Besides, there are almost always contributing factors in the near misses that I see. That guy pulled out in front of you? Yeah, but you were doing 45 in a 30. The car in front of you stopped short for a yellow light? Maybe so, but you were drafting him like you were Ricky Bobby. Accidents are usually the result of compounded errors, by all parties involved.
  12. 2 points
    When I was a kid in the tire shop we would get a pair of tires and one would be a little taller that the other. I would tell the customer to put the taller one on the passenger side of the car to compensate for the crown in the road. They would agree the road had to drain. So if you spare is a little shorter you are OK if the driver side tire goes flat. If a passenger side tire goes flat, first take the driver side tire off and replace the flat one. You can then put the spare on the driver side and compensate for the crown in the road. Simple! If you do that could you, please, video the roadside change? When I first read this topic, I immediately thought of those TV guys modifying the trunk floor to make the tire fit. Bernie
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    No reason it should leak if rebuilt with new seals, gaskets and tolerances. I have 3 that don't leak.
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    Certainly. I think the real question though is how long will it stay leak free. My understanding of the Dynaflow is fluid pressures are created to make the transmission provide power. There are two pumps working like mad to make us go. These high pressures(200 psi) will eventually find ways around seals and gaskets. Particularly with gaskets from the 50s era that are probably not as seal worthy as today's materials. Just my thoughts/theory about it. The odd thing about my Dyaflow in the 60, when running there are no issues. When I shut it down she will drip a bit then stop. Stranger yet after a year of ownership...I have added less than a half qt of trans fluid.
  17. 2 points
    Rusty, Got a chuckle out of the sample, 1932 Studebaker that you indicated might be a better buy. That car is one of two extent, and has just won it's class at Pebble Beach. Plus I doubt that the owner would sell, anyway. If the gentleman inquiring about a convertible sedan, with "reliable classic lines," and "high end marques,", would be willing to define his terms. All the big Studebaker Presidents 1928-33 (less the 1933 Model 82) and the larger Nash offerings are CCCA "full Classics." They are also are more rare, then a similar Pierce, Packard or Cadillac. One of the smaller offerings of these companies, might be less expensive, if one can be found.
  18. 2 points
    I'm sure mine leaks tiny bits but I don't notice any puddles in the driveway or in parking lots. I don't recall having an issue when I drove my 55 back in the day either.
  19. 2 points
    This morning, I was surprised to find that the parts that I painted yesterday were not dry. The weather has been odd, too warm for the heat to come on in the garage, too cold for the air conditioner to come on in the garage, and really humid. I moved the parts outside and put them in a sunny location to finish drying in the sun. I then got too busy with the job that pays the bills to work on the Buick any more this morning. Later today, I installed the rubber cover on the accelerator pedal. I decide to apply a bead of silicone sealant around the back edge to make sure that there is no problem with it sliding off of the pedal in the future. I applied some rubber bands to hold the edges tight to the pedal until the silicone sealer cured. Later today, UPS delivered a nice fuel pressure regulator that I purchased on ebay recently so I installed it. This evening, I was able to paint the black inserts of the ignition switch. Hopefully I will have more time tomorrow to work on the Buick.
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Here is one that could be useful on the side of the road.
  23. 2 points
    We had really nice weather today considering it's February. Temperature was about 76 degrees. The wife wanted me to do a few house repairs but I thought it was stupid to waste a nice day doing that so I took off and drove my Reatta instead.
  24. 2 points
    The ad above now shows listing was ended by seller because item was lost or broken.... since we knew it was broken, how the hell did he lose it?
  25. 2 points
    Before I fixed my leaking rear main seal, it would quickly lose 2 quarts like yours especially if driving in hilly locations (my theory was that oil sloshed back to the seal and leaked). After 2 quarts it would stabilize. That engine holds 7 quarts and will not be hurt if 2 quarts low...I would add 1/2 quart when it got 2.5 quarts low on the dip stick.
  26. 2 points
    You got your work cut out for you there. Keep it up.
  27. 2 points
    Time to get some signs or something up that will keep all the neighbors from asking when is the saloon going to be finished. After considering a large 20's 30's script lettered BUICK painted sign and getting some estimates from some sign painters I decided on another route and am glad I did. I ordered some large MDF (medium density fiber) letters from Woodland Manufacturing. Took quite a bit of sanding and ended up laying on 4 coats of paint (and sanding between each coat) on the front and 3 on the back. Each coat had to completely dry for several days in the sun before sanding and applying the next coat, so it too a couple of weeks total. I drilled the mounting holes before painting so the MDF would be completely sealed off from water. B-U-I-C-K Always under my feet... and Kowpi too... The letter inspector keeping me straight Glued and screwed
  28. 2 points
    I don't know of many open 7-passenger touring cars that also have roll-up windows. You're talking oranges and grapefruits, so to speak. A convertible sedan will have roll-up windows but most are 5-passenger models, not 7. A 7-passenger touring car will not have windows, just side curtains. They look significantly different, even though both are 4-door convertibles, with the touring cars generally being more sporting and less formal-looking. Convertible sedans often have a more upright look simply because of the roll up windows--the angles have to be straighter to accommodate the flat glass. Here's a 1934 Packard Eight convertible sedan: Here's a 1934 Packard Eight 7-passenger touring: You can see the differences quite easily. One isn't better than the other, but the experience is different. For instance, I know of very few convertible sedan owners who actually put their tops down regularly because it's a big job. Phaeton tops go down more easily but don't seal up as well in inclement weather (although neither will be anything like a modern car). At any rate, if you're looking for a big, high-end open car, you can't go wrong with any of the major marques, Cadillac, Packard, Lincoln, Marmon, etc. Bodies can be catalog bodies or customs, and prices are all over the map depending on how much car is under the body and just how custom the body is. There are those who will argue for their own personal favorites, but in that time period, all the high-end marques were exceptional cars. Find the one you like the best and that's the right one for you. I would encourage you to drive all your potentials as well, since they often do drive quite differently. Again, not better or worse, just different. But you will not regret any quality Full Classic open car of the early '30s, they're my personal favorites. Have fun in the search!
  29. 1 point
    Putting our speedster project up for sale, be the terror of the neighborhood this summer. $4,250 overhauled engine, trans, ton of spares. See details in Model T section. Thanks for looking.
  30. 1 point
    From what I have read, I don't think they were planning on becoming a mainstay in the automotive industry when they built these. It almost seemed like a big pet project to me, to say here is what I can do. It definitely did accomplish that. Actually 1956 Oldsmobiles only have one script in the grille stating they are an olds. They do have the globe in a couple of other places, but on an 88 if you got the deluxe spinner hubcaps added, They didn't even say Olds. I think a few cars have been the same way, but not for with the intent of the Cord. Just my 2 cents of course.
  31. 1 point
    Keep in mind that there have been more than few, all steel, reproduction B-400, convertible sedan bodies reproduced over the years. Also, many B-400 were made for export and built in non-USA Ford factories. These bodies are different than the US built B-400s. Some have been fitted to US chassis and sold as authentic, US B-400s. Like all 1932 Fords, the convertible sedan was supplied with either 4 cylinder or V-8 engine. An authentic V-8 car is worth the most. Many four cylinder cars have had a V-8 engine change and the serial numbers altered accordingly. A real, US built, authentic 1932 Ford B-400 is quite rare. Make sure you know what you buying. Also, technically, speaking the proper reference is 400-B, not B-400. Ford never used the term B-400!!! Good luck on your purchase.
  32. 1 point
    Hope this helps. The vacuum tube is held in position under the dash by clips on the bolts for the cowl trim.
  33. 1 point
    After rereading your post, the excessive end play is probably because the replacement grey gear is not as thick as the original. Assuming the casting has not slipped on the shaft, you could add a washer on the side with the threaded end and eliminate some most of the movement. The only concern is clearance on the bellcrank end.....I don't know if 2 mm is going to cause the bellcrank to hit anything if it moves in and out. Because of the worm design, the shaft will automatically move in and out when the motor changed directions.
  34. 1 point
    YOU DON'T want to rum odd size tires with a Posi diff. I've been using 225/70's for yrs. with NO problems. Same size spare. Tight fit, but does fit. Tom T.
  35. 1 point
    I think Gunsmoke has it right....says "(UNKNOWN CAR)"
  36. 1 point
    Haha a little cold right now. I stuck a glob where it was leaking at the torque ball flange before I had it replaced after the shop that did the work didn't replace the torque ball. Haven't needed it since but it stopped the leak in the time being. My grandfather told me that one. Now the only place it leaks is from the front seal and I have no way of sealing that without taking the bell housing off. I'm not sure how effective the gum is, so its probably wishful thinking, but I stopped seeing red dots at the torque ball end on my pee pads.
  37. 1 point
    If you did not get anything there, might think generic aftermarket. I would post each gauge separately in the what is it below.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Simon, I am bit late to this discussion but I have a 1912 Buick Model 35 and 1912 McLaughlin- Buick Model 35 both with the same 165 CI engine and chassis. The Body of the McLaughlin is different than the Flint made body with a cowl but both have the shifter inside the body as have most 13 Buick model 25's I have seen. It was unusual to see the shifter on the outside but as Mark Shaw and other have stated, it might be due to shipping laws. I have toured quite a bit in the McLaughlin and it cruises nicely at 35-40 MPH on flat ground but has slightly different rear end ratio than most others that run better at 30-35 MPH. I have not run the 12 Flint Buick yet as I inherited it from my Father and while it was almost completely restored about 15 years ago, it was never sorted out and has carb issues now and I have not had time to deal with them yet but hope to later this year after I get a 1911 T Ford back on the road after a cracked engine head issue last fall. One of the issues you must consider with a Buick or any non-Model T era brass car is the fact that you will have to make or have made any parts that fail. For a brass T, you can order most any mechanical parts you would need from numerous suppliers on the net for a very reasonable cost. With a Buick like this, no so. For example, the ring and pinion on my McLaughlin went out a few years ago and I had a new set made to the tune of $2000 vs $300 for a Model T. I had lot of other issues with the Rear end that made the $2000 ring and pinion cost pocket change. Got almost as much in the rear end as I paid for the car. Same thing if you have major engine or Tranny issues, be prepared to shell out big bucks or hot rod with other cars parts. A friend has a 1911 Overland his father modified years ago with 26 Chevy Rear end and Tranny. It also has cast Aluminum wheels that look like the wood ones. Wish I had done that with McLaughlin as I am grossly underwater. On a side note, my daughter met an Aussie in Perth, Au four years ago while student teaching. She stayed and they were married last year. I have made one trip to Australia so far but will be making some more in future. Tom Muth Cincinnati, Ohio
  40. 1 point
    You need to realize that if you get rid of the heat riser and bolt the exhaust pipe to the manifold, you're moving your pipes closer to the chassis. Do some work on thar bad riser so that it now becomes a spacer.
  41. 1 point
    Thinking about putting in the LT1 and trans....until I saw the torque tube.....DOH!
  42. 1 point
    Listen to the first half and come on. Or you could just wait til the Grand Opening... You keep watching, I'll keep posting... or both!!! Actually I like the idea of "I work for parts" get in that Super or even the lil TR-3 and come on down Dave!!!
  43. 1 point
    I will be able to answer only the second question since I myself was recently interested in this. Initially, the front drive was not, the cars were rear-wheel drive and in this case the automatic boxes had only three gears, which was quite enough, now other times the cars received a front-wheel drive, so there are more gears, there are 4, 5 and 6 high-speed options. The 5-speed automatic device 545 RFE appeared in 2001. It became the next stage in the evolution of the 4-speed automatic transmission 45 RFE, produced since 1999. For the first time 545 was applied in the Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ, and later in other cars of this brand. For example, in pickup trucks Dodge and even in London taxis. Despite the fact that the box is used in cars subjected to heavy loads, it creates few problems. This is a typical representative of the American school: the switch is very slow, but it's almost impossible to "miss" the automatic transmission system. Repair after 400,000 km is not difficult. Example of application: Jeep Grand Cherokee, Commander Wrangler, Dodge Dakota, Durango. My dream, of course, is that car massagers go in the package, there are things that excite me more than the filling of the car.
  44. 1 point
    Don't be too eager to pull the body off. The amount of bracing needed to avoid damage and misalignment is substantial. The other aspect is with the body on the frame , you are properly jigged up to re-wood that big body. That is a tough enough task to do under the best of circumstances. Just a little deviation , or flex may make it somewhere between overwhelmingly difficult and impossible to get the car right again. Even a steel framed car has to be properly braced in order to pull the body. Your situation is vastly more critical. There are plenty of other things you can do with all of the running gear , etc. to keep you busy while doing the wood. Let this be an invitation to the very experienced guys here to explain the correct sequence to deal with a large 4 door sedan in this condition. I have never done it , nor at this point ever will. Take your time , ask a lot of questions , and don't assume anything regarding new tricks. - CC
  45. 1 point
    I spent this afternoon connecting the fog lights to the car's electrical system. My goal is to make it look as OEM as possible, even though I'm not quite doing it the way the factory recommended. I still want it to look like it was all installed in 1941. To help with that, I bought a bunch of cloth-wrapped wire in various colors that would look right, the aforementioned NOS relay used to correct dim headlights, and even a bunch of connectors and terminals that were similar to what they were using in '41. My initial plan was to put the relay on the firewall and pull power from the battery and run wires on the passenger side of the engine bay, but as frequently happens, plans and reality aren't always the same. I discovered that by putting the relay on the driver's side of the engine bay on the inner fender, the armored cables from the lights would reach all the way to the relay without the need for a splice. That's much better. And at a fellow board member's suggestion, I decided to pull power from the BAT terminal on the regulator rather than from the starter solenoid. That means the hot wire that runs +6 volts directly to the relay will only be about 16 inches long. That's better, too. Wiring diagram that came with the NOS relay and brand new cloth-covered wires (yellow = 12 GA, red = 14 GA, black = 12 GA) I ran the armored cables through the grille rather than drilling new holes in the splash apron, which would just be an invitation for rust. Nobody but I will notice and the wires are mostly hidden by the lights anyway. I pulled the upper radiator shroud and routed the armored cables up the driver's side and alongside the harness for the headlights. I vowed to keep it all 1941, but zip ties are so damned handy (and since they wouldn't be seen}, I used them to secure the armored cable to the radiator cradle so they don't move around. Sorry. Removing the radiator shroud was easy and gave good access to the area behind the grille. Looks like I forgot to take a photo of the armored cables in place I discovered there's a nice flat spot on top of the inner fender on the driver's side where the relay would fit perfectly, be protected from water, and wow, there's already a hole drilled to mount it! I positioned the relay and drilled a second hole, then cleaned the surfaces since the mounting legs will be the ground for the relay. A little dielectric grease on the feet, two sheetmetal screws, and it was securely mounted. It turns out there's a handy place to install the relay on the driver's side inner fender right next to the carburetor intake tube. Looking at the diagram for the relay, it's a little different than the one I downloaded from the internet (and I was really bummed that I had to destroy that neat little NOS Delco box to get the relay out). It shows the power coming in at the fuse, the power output at the forward (left) terminal and the switch input at the rear (right) terminal. That actually works perfectly and includes a 30 amp fuse on the relay itself, so I can omit the inline fuse that I was planning to use--two fewer splices to make, two fewer places for things to go wrong. I will, however, downgrade the fuse to a 10 amp unit since the fog lights' draw is 8.3 amps (2 lights x 25 watts each = 50 watts/6 volts = 8.3 amps) and I want to keep it safely under the wires' melting point. If I'm reading this right--and I think I am--it looks like power comes in at the fuse and goes to the lights at the lower left I peeled back more of the armored cable to expose the wires inside (the armor is just flat wire wrapped around the conductors), then secured it with some shrink tubing so it would not continue to unravel. I used some flag-style terminals that were what GM was using in 1941, which I also acquired from Rhode Island Wiring Service. They're a little more labor-intensive to install than the usual crimp connectors you buy at the auto parts store, but you'll note that they stacked neatly on the relay terminals better than standard eye terminals would. I initially planned to route both power wires from the lights into one connector and connecting that wire to the output terminal on the relay, but if I did it that way, you'd have to cut wires to remove the fog lights for service in the future. In the interest of making it easier on some theoretical future owner, I connected each power lead separately so the lights can be disconnected and removed without any cutting. The flag terminals made it easy and I bent one upwards and one downwards so they would clear each other on the terminal. After some frustration, I went out and bought a new soldering iron with some serious horsepower to heat up that big terminal and the wire inside. Soldeirng was the only way to make the terminals secure because I don't have the special crimping tool they require. The result was a super-clean installation with the wires running in neat parallel lines. Wires exposed and terminated to connect to the relay. I did this for both fog lights. It was at this point that I decided that I would use the relay's mounting feet for the ground wires for the lights as well. The wires were already right there. Two more flag terminals and I bent them up a bit so they would fit neatly under the mounting screw. It was a little tight and I wished I had thought a little more carefully about ground wire routing, but it's not bad. I also keep second-guessing myself on my choice of colors--some say black should be hot and white ground (as in your house) but in a car, black means ground. By slightly bending the flag terminals, they fit neatly and don't interfere with each other Next step is to get power to the relay. Ideally, you want a direct +6V to the relay, which will ensure as much juice as possible reaching the lights. The shorter the wire, the less resistance you'll have and the more current will reach the lights. I'm using 12-gauge wire throughout, and while I initially thought I'd pull power directly from the battery, mounting the relay on the inner fender meant I could run a short wire from the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator to the power terminal and get a full +6V to the relay. I took some of my cloth-covered 12-gauge wire and added another flag terminal, giving it a bit of a bend to clear the battery wire already on the regulator. It was easy to route it to the relay where I installed a regular eye terminal rather than another flag terminal. I debated this, but since that wire will be hot all the time and is in a place where a tool or a hand could brush against it, the eye terminal with as much shrink tubing as possible would be safest. Another flag terminal connects the +6V power to the relay with an eye terminal on the relay end. I routed it alongside an existing part of the harness to keep it neat and secure The remaining terminal is where the fog light switch wire connects, which will be the last step of the job. I haven't mounted the switch yet, but it should be relatively easy to run a wire (I'll use the red 14-gauge wire) through the firewall and to the terminal on the relay. I haven't yet decided where to pull power for the switch, but I'm now leaning towards the taillight terminal on the headlight switch. By using the taillight terminal, the fog lights will only work when the parking lights or head lights are on and it makes sense that when the fogs are on, the taillights should also be on. It also means that the fog lights will switch off with the main headlight switch. And finally, since I already have LEDs in my taillights, the extra few milliamps pulled from the taillight circuit by the relay won't overload or overheat the ancient headlight switch. My other thought is connecting it to the ignition switch so the lights go off with the ignition, but that doesn't seem as elegant. Finally, just to make sure I did everything right, I put a jumper wire between the relay's switch terminal and the parking light terminal on the fender, then turned on the parking lights. The relay clicked audibly and the fog lights came on. Flip it to headlights and the fog lights went off (because the parking lights go off when you turn on the headlights). Back to parking lights and CLICK! Fog lights back on. The fog lights even register on the ammeter. All good! So far, so good! I'll get the switch installed this week or maybe next weekend, although I think I'm traveling. I'm eager to get it done and move on to the next project.
  46. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. I am now 3 years into my restoration of my 1949 Chrysler Town and Country. Stripped and blasted the frame and painted myself. Pulled the body to fix the rotted out rockers, floors and trunk floor. This has been a long process doing this work. I am trying to do it correctly. This hood piece would be worthy of my car, trust me. I am completing the restoration as funds allow and spare time. So my timeline is long. Let me know once you are settled, find the mascot and evaluate your best price. Included are a few photos of where I am now. Currently struggling with the wood as I have no patterns. Best Regards,. Brian
  47. 1 point
    Your radio is revolting and choking on that modern music(?). A steady diet of Hank Williams or Benny Goodman will have is playing correctly in no time
  48. 1 point
    This was an interesting RR project: Everyone was scolding me that I had to get the chassis card to verify if correct body# to frame # to engine# - Yep, it is a 100% number matching car. After spending a lot of time with the car, I suspected that even though very tail end production the original owner got a 100% new car too (appears she was RR of America's nickel alloy supplier). Sounds like she also tied to bail company out again in 1941 buying the last unfinished PIII. I thought I would post as few people ever see this kind of paperwork and ....
  49. 1 point
    These are Cragar's version of the Astro Supreme. Summit sells the Astro's and I think will ship down under, but you may have better luck with these. Fitment will be the same. Still will need to use the spacers front and rear. Here are a few pictures on a first generation Riviera. Hope this helps.