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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Picked up my freshly redone steering wheel today! Wow! I really like the way this turned out!
  2. 2 points
    ’39 Buick Special 40 – Straight 8. 3 speed on the column. 4 door, 5 pass Touring Sedan. Under 65,000 miles. All original parts. Exterior in original Buick Gray. Excellent original mohair interior. New brakes and water pump. Starts, runs and drives great. Road ready. $9,400.00 St. Paul, MN, USA Contact through PM or profile email address.
  3. 2 points
    When I was a kid in the tire shop we would get a pair of tires and one would be a little taller that the other. I would tell the customer to put the taller one on the passenger side of the car to compensate for the crown in the road. They would agree the road had to drain. So if you spare is a little shorter you are OK if the driver side tire goes flat. If a passenger side tire goes flat, first take the driver side tire off and replace the flat one. You can then put the spare on the driver side and compensate for the crown in the road. Simple! If you do that could you, please, video the roadside change? When I first read this topic, I immediately thought of those TV guys modifying the trunk floor to make the tire fit. Bernie
  4. 2 points
    No reason it should leak if rebuilt with new seals, gaskets and tolerances. I have 3 that don't leak.
  5. 2 points
    Rusty, Got a chuckle out of the sample, 1932 Studebaker that you indicated might be a better buy. That car is one of two extent, and has just won it's class at Pebble Beach. Plus I doubt that the owner would sell, anyway. If the gentleman inquiring about a convertible sedan, with "reliable classic lines," and "high end marques,", would be willing to define his terms. All the big Studebaker Presidents 1928-33 (less the 1933 Model 82) and the larger Nash offerings are CCCA "full Classics." They are also are more rare, then a similar Pierce, Packard or Cadillac. One of the smaller offerings of these companies, might be less expensive, if one can be found.
  6. 2 points
    I'm sure mine leaks tiny bits but I don't notice any puddles in the driveway or in parking lots. I don't recall having an issue when I drove my 55 back in the day either.
  7. 2 points
    This morning, I was surprised to find that the parts that I painted yesterday were not dry. The weather has been odd, too warm for the heat to come on in the garage, too cold for the air conditioner to come on in the garage, and really humid. I moved the parts outside and put them in a sunny location to finish drying in the sun. I then got too busy with the job that pays the bills to work on the Buick any more this morning. Later today, I installed the rubber cover on the accelerator pedal. I decide to apply a bead of silicone sealant around the back edge to make sure that there is no problem with it sliding off of the pedal in the future. I applied some rubber bands to hold the edges tight to the pedal until the silicone sealer cured. Later today, UPS delivered a nice fuel pressure regulator that I purchased on ebay recently so I installed it. This evening, I was able to paint the black inserts of the ignition switch. Hopefully I will have more time tomorrow to work on the Buick.
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    Here is one that could be useful on the side of the road.
  10. 2 points
    The ad above now shows listing was ended by seller because item was lost or broken.... since we knew it was broken, how the hell did he lose it?
  11. 1 point
    I am the second owner of this 33 year old 9 passenger wagon. It was bought new by my mother in law's neighbor. I have owned the car 5 years and used it as a second car at my home in Florida. This car was certified HPOF Original at the 2017 AACA Meet in Ocala Florida, where the car is currently located. This car has the last Chevrolet of that era to used the Chevrolet 305 V-8 while the sedan were already using the Oldsmobile 305. Car is equipped with cruise control, AM/FM radio, power steering and brakes, power windows and locks, but oddly no power seat. I replaced the water pump, tie rods and center link, brakes, original alternator was rebuilt, new exhaust, new A/C compressor and A/C lines system was retrofitted to 134. The only thing this car could use is maybe a set of shocks. It is in very nice used car there are a few bruises on the right side from exiting and entering the garage. Someone touched up some of the wood grain with paint that was damaged and did a pretty good job of it, however I have a roll of the correct color and pattern wood grain di-noc material that goes with the car. I also located a set of NOS floor mats that add to the car and make a nice touch.The original factory grey primer is still on the bottom of the floorboards. This is a rust free car! from Long Island New York, was in a heated garage it's entire existence and never was taken out in the snow. I have the original owners manual, shop manual and sales literature, I also have an NOS rear bumper filler panel that is broken, This car will be listed for sale in the classifieds of the next issue of our great magazine Antique Automobile a nice clean car, fly in and drive it home! $8200 PM me if interested (PLEASE NOTE I WILL BE OUT OF TOWN FOR A FEW DAYS THIS WEEK AND WILL BE AWAY FROM EMAIL I WILL CONTACT YOU ONCE I GET ON LINE AGAIN) Thanks for looking
  12. 1 point
    Putting our speedster project up for sale, be the terror of the neighborhood this summer. $4,250 overhauled engine, trans, ton of spares. See details in Model T section. Thanks for looking.
  13. 1 point
    I just want to let everyone know that my email address has been compromised somehow. I DID NOT send an email to folks asking for help. The internet can certainly be dangerous at times. Thank you all for reading this and please pass this on. I have contacted law enforcement to report this activity. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  14. 1 point
    I am not associated with this listing. Contact the seller email address listed above.
  15. 1 point
    There is a little bit of information in the previous discussion about the new library/headquarters building here:
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Most cars prior to 1935 did not have script other than the hubs or caps indicating much of anything. Maybe an emblem or two. Not sure the Cord is very unusual.
  18. 1 point
    DO NOT use Loctite!! If you have to take it apart again sometime down the road you will find out why not to use loctite.
  19. 1 point
    Modern steering wheels with all their electronics and airbags just don't have much class -- safer , yes -- but ugly.
  20. 1 point
    As far as I know, there never was one from the factory on a first gen Riv.Lots of posts over the years about this topic. One of the biggest issues is the placement on the door. Specifically, the place on the door that looks right from the outside is virtually useless as a mirror for the inside. Its all about the combination of seating position, placement on the outside of the door and sightline interruption of the A pillar. PRL
  21. 1 point
    Keep in mind that there have been more than few, all steel, reproduction B-400, convertible sedan bodies reproduced over the years. Also, many B-400 were made for export and built in non-USA Ford factories. These bodies are different than the US built B-400s. Some have been fitted to US chassis and sold as authentic, US B-400s. Like all 1932 Fords, the convertible sedan was supplied with either 4 cylinder or V-8 engine. An authentic V-8 car is worth the most. Many four cylinder cars have had a V-8 engine change and the serial numbers altered accordingly. A real, US built, authentic 1932 Ford B-400 is quite rare. Make sure you know what you buying. Also, technically, speaking the proper reference is 400-B, not B-400. Ford never used the term B-400!!! Good luck on your purchase.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    if I do the deal...I ll post all the pictures and progress. finger cross
  24. 1 point
    My understanding is that the 4 clynder engines had a aluminum gear fitted this is what I have on my car so you may be able to find one you will never break it tony
  25. 1 point
    A Rare beautiful day near Memphis! Had to take this shot, it was practically begging for a picture
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Gary, I'll go out in the morning and get you some pictures of the setup on my Roadster. I just checked the parts manual and the Roadster has different part numbers compared to the closed cars, but I'd bet that they are similar.
  28. 1 point
    If you did not get anything there, might think generic aftermarket. I would post each gauge separately in the what is it below.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks Steve, I was lucky to get it! I would not be looking to sell it if my Mother in Law did not give me her 1988 Celebrity Wagon. That one has around only 35,000 miles. Problem is with that car is my Father in Law had a pretty bad accident when the car was 3 years old so it was a repaint, so it i not unrestored in the eyes of AACA, which I understand. If I put 500 miles a year on that car it would be a lot.
  30. 1 point
    Hi Gary, if you look at my first post dealing with the running boards, in one picture you’ll see a rubber running board cover sitting on top of the metal board. A NIB pair of 32' Oldsmobile Northfield Ltd. rubber covers were with the car in the barn it was stored in. They are an earlier set as the metal backing with bolts is molded in. I have to drill holes in the boards to mount them. The latest version Northfield make comes in two pieces and you have to glue the rubber to the sheet metal piece that has the bolts. I’ve had some people tell me that the early version boards dried up and got hard cracking almost immediately. These rubber boards have been around for 20+ yrs and are still soft and subtle. Possibly it’s the ultraviolet light that raises hell with them but time will tell. I’m not running out to get new ones without using these first. I also had some tell me that the problem was corrected on the later ones produced with with the vulcanized backing plate. As we all know there’s many stories that about our cars and we can only believe a few at the most in many cases.
  31. 1 point
    Problem solved! It was something simple. I played around with the handle for awhile and finally got it to go in all the way by first inserting it part of the way, then turning it 90 degrees, at which time it goes down some more, apparently into another slot. Fits and works like a charm! Thanks for all of the help and photos. Pete
  32. 1 point
    Stooge, It would have probably made both my life and your life easier if you had found it before I did, but I am enjoying the project.
  33. 1 point
    Mike, that’s VERY impressive, waaaay over my head. Great job!
  34. 1 point
    Simon, I am bit late to this discussion but I have a 1912 Buick Model 35 and 1912 McLaughlin- Buick Model 35 both with the same 165 CI engine and chassis. The Body of the McLaughlin is different than the Flint made body with a cowl but both have the shifter inside the body as have most 13 Buick model 25's I have seen. It was unusual to see the shifter on the outside but as Mark Shaw and other have stated, it might be due to shipping laws. I have toured quite a bit in the McLaughlin and it cruises nicely at 35-40 MPH on flat ground but has slightly different rear end ratio than most others that run better at 30-35 MPH. I have not run the 12 Flint Buick yet as I inherited it from my Father and while it was almost completely restored about 15 years ago, it was never sorted out and has carb issues now and I have not had time to deal with them yet but hope to later this year after I get a 1911 T Ford back on the road after a cracked engine head issue last fall. One of the issues you must consider with a Buick or any non-Model T era brass car is the fact that you will have to make or have made any parts that fail. For a brass T, you can order most any mechanical parts you would need from numerous suppliers on the net for a very reasonable cost. With a Buick like this, no so. For example, the ring and pinion on my McLaughlin went out a few years ago and I had a new set made to the tune of $2000 vs $300 for a Model T. I had lot of other issues with the Rear end that made the $2000 ring and pinion cost pocket change. Got almost as much in the rear end as I paid for the car. Same thing if you have major engine or Tranny issues, be prepared to shell out big bucks or hot rod with other cars parts. A friend has a 1911 Overland his father modified years ago with 26 Chevy Rear end and Tranny. It also has cast Aluminum wheels that look like the wood ones. Wish I had done that with McLaughlin as I am grossly underwater. On a side note, my daughter met an Aussie in Perth, Au four years ago while student teaching. She stayed and they were married last year. I have made one trip to Australia so far but will be making some more in future. Tom Muth Cincinnati, Ohio
  35. 1 point
    Don't see many of these wagons around anymore Neat Wagon!
  36. 1 point
    No, but if the front cam bearing is not installed correctly there will not be flow to the rockers. Install a pressure gauge for testing.
  37. 1 point
    Reads (unknown car), probably no help. My '31 Chrysler Roadster has 6 pieces each side, of similar sizes, thought these are clearly different, and only 5 per side. If you do some trial layout, you can likely figure approximately how they assembled to create a 3-bow top. The longest pieces likely went to the front bow over windshield, and the ones with the curve on end connected to a pivot bolt just back of door post. Many such sets had a small part to act as a sort of hinge to lock them when open. Here is picture of '31 Chrysler Roadster bows.
  38. 1 point
    Listen to the first half and come on. Or you could just wait til the Grand Opening... You keep watching, I'll keep posting... or both!!! Actually I like the idea of "I work for parts" get in that Super or even the lil TR-3 and come on down Dave!!!
  39. 1 point
    I have been a bit behind with another medical issue. But, if many may recall, the Covered Bridge Tour in Allentown was a "free form" driving tour, totally on your own, so I would suggest that you just provide maps and point out attractions, and drive on their ow, any day they want. I would hate to see trying to keep 30+ cars together on a group drive. Just my opinion. John
  40. 1 point
    I picked up one for my car. But it had to be something special.
  41. 1 point
    Also thinking this was never originally a coachbuilt flower car. None of the established coachbuilders extended the fenders on '41s/ used the S60S. Nothing else seems to match up with an original pro car, including the roofline, the trim, the side window, the wheelbase, etc. All the pics I've seen of '41s show commercial-length cars with 4 doors.
  42. 1 point
    Will be a magnificent car when done. I hope you have in writing that you will be the future owner, even if the "real owner" is family and the basis/cost of the work being done. Some other family members of the real owner may think it worth a gazillion dollars (now and later)
  43. 1 point
    I finally finished rebuilding the fog lights themselves, which turned out to be a lot more work than expected. There were several problems, the big one being the undersized wire pigtails on the replacement sockets. Some of the issues were my problem--as you may or may not know, "Harwood" is apparently a Gaelic word for "overkill" or "He who works waaayyy beyond the point of diminishing returns." As I mentioned, I wanted to upgrade the grounds in the lights since they originally grounded themselves through the housings, mounting brackets, and ultimately the bumper brackets. Since all those things are old, dirty, rusty, and covered in paint, it's not really a great ground path. So I decided to run a separate ground wire along with power from the sockets inside the light housings. I also thought the bulbs in the fog lights were 55 watts each, not 25, so I used 12 gauge wire, and, well, since it was out in the open like that, I used armored cable with two leads in it. Glancing around my shop, I saw that every single other car with fog lights had one weenie little naked 16 gauge wire and no ground, and they all seem to work fine. But that's not the Harwood overkill way. Surely those engineers could have done a better job, right? Anyway, I was committed so it was time to make it work. 12/2 armored cable comes from Rhode Island Wiring Service Step one was figuring out the socket problem. I refused to spend all that money on quality wires only to do a splice to an 18-gauge fire-waiting-to-happen inside the lights themselves and risk it melting inside the housing. That meant I had to figure out a way to make my 12-gauge armored cable into part of the socket. After a LOOOONG search on the internet, I finally found brass button socket terminals, although they were only available for 18 gauge wire (go figure). I bought 10 of them anyway. They showed up late in the week and step one was getting them onto the ends of the 12-gauge wires inside the light. That meant threading the wire through the bottom of the reflector housing, through the socket spring, through the plastic insulator disc, and ultimately attaching it to the button terminal. The little terminals were adequate and after a little trial-and-error wherein I sacrificed three of the terminals, I finally got one crimped in place. Just to be sure it would stay, I also soldered it. Good joint, very solid, it isn't coming loose. But problem #2 is that the joint is now larger than the hole in the plastic insulator disc. Dang. Cut it off and try again, careful to make a tight, small splice and use minimal solder. OK, it fits pretty well now. Great! Button terminal is secure and fits well (it slides down into the socket and rests on the plastic insulator and spring) I also needed to figure out how to attach the ground wire that I had inside the light. There were no nuts or screws to use inside the housing, so I soldered the wire to the outside of the bulb socket. Not so easy to do, but a clean solution that puts the ground right where it's needed. I forgot to take a photo of this step, sorry. Just imagine a wire soldered to the side of the socket--that's what it looks like. Step two is reassembling the light. The armored cable is considerably larger than the original single strand of wire, so I needed to enlarge the hole in the back of the light housing. I did that with a step bit in my drill and tidied up the edges with a round file. And because I'm doing the overkill thing, I added some shrink tubing as a strain relief and so the armored cable wouldn't rub on the housing and chew it up. It also fits tightly enough to seal the opening. Shrink tubing protects the housing and acts as a strain relief. Next up was reassembly. There was a rubber gasket around the perimeter of the reflector that sealed to the glass lens, but it was shot, so I used some flexible weatherstripping that was like putty. It was the right size and sealed up very well. And even though there was no gasket around the perimeter of the lens where it fits to the outer housing, I note that the bottom of the light housing and bezel are rusty down there and filled with dirt, so I figured I could seal it up better. A little more weather-stripping around the perimeter of the lens where it goes into the outer bezel and it should not have any problems. There's a little rotating clip at the bottom of the outer bezel to hold the lens in place, so I squished the weather-stripping and twisted the clip into place. The putty squeezed out the edges, so I trimmed it with a razor blade so it was invisible. I used flexible putty-like weather-stripping to seal the lens into the housing. Note the little clip at the bottom that holds the lens in place. Last thing before I assembled everything was cleaning the reflectors, so I used a little silver polish to brighten them up, installed the bulbs and bulb covers, then reassembled the lights. Mounting them was easy, although I'm still undecided on whether I'm going to run the armored cable through the splash pan (I have two little grommets that are just right) or just run it through the grille opening behind the lights like all the other cars in the shop. Just for grins, I hooked them up to the battery just to see how they look. Nice! Lights have unique swivel-washers so you can adjust the angle on the bracket. They look great! I'm hoping to wire up the switch and relay tomorrow. I should have rebuilt the lights weeks ago when I first got them but it was a good day project.
  44. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. I am now 3 years into my restoration of my 1949 Chrysler Town and Country. Stripped and blasted the frame and painted myself. Pulled the body to fix the rotted out rockers, floors and trunk floor. This has been a long process doing this work. I am trying to do it correctly. This hood piece would be worthy of my car, trust me. I am completing the restoration as funds allow and spare time. So my timeline is long. Let me know once you are settled, find the mascot and evaluate your best price. Included are a few photos of where I am now. Currently struggling with the wood as I have no patterns. Best Regards,. Brian
  45. 1 point
    Your radio is revolting and choking on that modern music(?). A steady diet of Hank Williams or Benny Goodman will have is playing correctly in no time
  46. 1 point
    This was an interesting RR project: Everyone was scolding me that I had to get the chassis card to verify if correct body# to frame # to engine# - Yep, it is a 100% number matching car. After spending a lot of time with the car, I suspected that even though very tail end production the original owner got a 100% new car too (appears she was RR of America's nickel alloy supplier). Sounds like she also tied to bail company out again in 1941 buying the last unfinished PIII. I thought I would post as few people ever see this kind of paperwork and ....
  47. 1 point
    I prefer Folger’s to Starbucks...more money for the car hobby
  48. 1 point
    Yes, that’s easy. Call Joe Morgan in NH.
  49. 1 point
    These are Cragar's version of the Astro Supreme. Summit sells the Astro's and I think will ship down under, but you may have better luck with these. Fitment will be the same. Still will need to use the spacers front and rear. Here are a few pictures on a first generation Riviera. Hope this helps.
  50. 1 point
    I thought John Hemingway's Buick was a 1953 SPECIAL. Only SUPERS AND ROADMASTERS for 1953 had bolted-on rear quarters (fenders). Al Mack "500 MILES WEST OF FLINT"