Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Picked up my freshly redone steering wheel today! Wow! I really like the way this turned out!
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    Glad to see it has steering. That can be useful.
  5. 3 points
    Yes, that's correct, two small emblems front and back. I agree that the wings are pretty distracting from an otherwise timeless design. Just think, if it had the name on the hubcaps, you'd have all those unknowing people coming up to you at shows and saying "Hey, did you know they misspelled FORD on your hubcaps??
  6. 3 points
    A rainy day brought the Amish crew inside the shop. Finally, some notable progress is made. The paint booth gets some metal, the internal rooms get a ceiling, and the upstairs is framed. They work fast.
  7. 3 points
    During Lunch my boy came home too and saw what I had been up too. I was good there (for a change) and went back out to lower the front of the car. The rain started again but at least came down straight. Once the stands were out of the way I started looking for stuff under the back end as that long overhang of hers was actually raised quiet a bit with the rear stands in place making it easier. I had moved some plywood and panelling along the wall onto the side of the car looking for that first transmission so squeezed in there to move it back off the car. Before I moved them though I noticed the rad cradle and the inner fender / battery side and took it out as they would need to be moved anyway. Squeezing between the car with them and NOT scratching the paint is exactly why I need to pull the whole car out plus to be able to get at that broken rack you see. Some good stainless trim is still in there and don't need it bent. Guess I had sanded the rad cradle and put primer on it but if you look closely there is rust out on the right hand side that I didn't have fixed. Placed it resting on the frame for now and will see if my son will attempt some welding? (Not my thing) The Inner fender panel has the usual rust out on the battery box so maybe two projects for him... At this point I was able to drop the rear end. Suddenly the drivers door opens easier... Going to the back, posturing the next step? Cleaning up is mandated! Feeling a bit feverish by now I tried to roll her out a bit but... even with the transmission and engine out not an easy roller yet. Determined to get this done grabbed a ratchet strap and hooked up to the truck as an anchor. I got some movement and success! That was enough room to get me at the back and clean up some racoon treasures and insulation! ANYONE NEED RED 1978 VINYL TRUCK SEAT? It's going OUT! That was enough for today and enlisted help from my son to push her back into place for now. Tomorrow is supposed to be rain all day too but a bit colder. Need to get feeling better with that, the humidity and sweating (me too) is not a good thing for metal but happy about the progress today. Might have a hot toddy after supper...
  8. 3 points
  9. 2 points
    ’39 Buick Special 40 – Straight 8. 3 speed on the column. 4 door, 5 pass Touring Sedan. Under 65,000 miles. All original parts. Exterior in original Buick Gray. Excellent original mohair interior. New brakes and water pump. Starts, runs and drives great. Road ready. $9,400.00 St. Paul, MN, USA Contact through PM or profile email address.
  10. 2 points
    Where I live it's the bottle blonde millennials driving their Hyundai SUV's, who think they're driving a Mercedes around the Nurburgring, and act as though they're late to everything and have to explain why over their cell phone to anyone who'll listen. Headlights disappear in my rear view mirror thinking that if they push me I'll pull over, even though I'm already 10 over the speed limit trying to keep up with the flow of traffic and there's someone next to me in the other lane. That's when my right foot gets light and I slow to a speed that won't cause major damage if I get rear ended. Then by the grace of God they do get by me and wind up stopped at the next red light.
  11. 2 points
    First, the ONLY reason to buy a new carburetor is that you like shiny items. There are absolutely NO new carburetor produced today that will function as well on your BUICK as a worn-out original. Rebuild the original and there is absolutely no comparison. Not only will the originals seriously outperform the new stuff, everything fits, and if you (or your estate, if you are like me with your cars) sell it, the original will create a larger universe of potential buyers, AND a higher price. Even if you do not have an original, while not common as a 6-cylinder Chevy, they are NOT rare, and not expensive. I probably have 15~20 in inventory, and there are other vendors that should also have one. If you really wish a different than original carb, upgrades would include a Q-Jet calibrated for Buick (I would suggest a 1968~1970 version if you choose this option) or a Carter thermoquad (TQ) calibrated for the Buick engine. BOTH OF THESE OPTIONS REQUIRE CHANGING TO A SPREAD-BORE INTAKE MANIFOLD as Ed suggested above. The spread-to-square adapters are for used-car salesmen! ALL of the e-clones including the AVS are calibrated for small-block Chevy. How good are your tuning skills, and how much do you wish to spend on tuning parts? Jon.
  12. 2 points
    I've lived there for over 20 years. Well, that's a POS car with POS brakes. Apples and oranges. And that's the point: drum brakes aren't this monolithic technology wherein all applications are created equal. Put front discs on a 64 Chevy and you'll see noticeable improvement. Of course, you'd also get better performance from 12" drums. Given that the Riviera starts with those 12" drums, the difference between those drums and discs is much smaller. And that's what folks are saying: when you're talking about incremental improvements, it needs to be a significant increment to be worthwhile. For many of us, that increment isn't large enough to justify the time, effort, and expense. Nothing is that black and white man. I live in a world of "driving is their next skill" drivers. You wanna talk about folks pulling out in front of you? Try dealing with roads full of Asian women in minivans. Just the other day I'm going down a 6-lane road and the car in the left lane hangs a right turn across traffic while the car in the right lane is cutting across two lanes to turn left. Keep your eyes open, leave space in front of you, and watch your mirrors so you know your evasion options. Besides, there are almost always contributing factors in the near misses that I see. That guy pulled out in front of you? Yeah, but you were doing 45 in a 30. The car in front of you stopped short for a yellow light? Maybe so, but you were drafting him like you were Ricky Bobby. Accidents are usually the result of compounded errors, by all parties involved.
  13. 2 points
    When I was a kid in the tire shop we would get a pair of tires and one would be a little taller that the other. I would tell the customer to put the taller one on the passenger side of the car to compensate for the crown in the road. They would agree the road had to drain. So if you spare is a little shorter you are OK if the driver side tire goes flat. If a passenger side tire goes flat, first take the driver side tire off and replace the flat one. You can then put the spare on the driver side and compensate for the crown in the road. Simple! If you do that could you, please, video the roadside change? When I first read this topic, I immediately thought of those TV guys modifying the trunk floor to make the tire fit. Bernie
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    No reason it should leak if rebuilt with new seals, gaskets and tolerances. I have 3 that don't leak.
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    Certainly. I think the real question though is how long will it stay leak free. My understanding of the Dynaflow is fluid pressures are created to make the transmission provide power. There are two pumps working like mad to make us go. These high pressures(200 psi) will eventually find ways around seals and gaskets. Particularly with gaskets from the 50s era that are probably not as seal worthy as today's materials. Just my thoughts/theory about it. The odd thing about my Dyaflow in the 60, when running there are no issues. When I shut it down she will drip a bit then stop. Stranger yet after a year of ownership...I have added less than a half qt of trans fluid.
  18. 2 points
    Rusty, Got a chuckle out of the sample, 1932 Studebaker that you indicated might be a better buy. That car is one of two extent, and has just won it's class at Pebble Beach. Plus I doubt that the owner would sell, anyway. If the gentleman inquiring about a convertible sedan, with "reliable classic lines," and "high end marques,", would be willing to define his terms. All the big Studebaker Presidents 1928-33 (less the 1933 Model 82) and the larger Nash offerings are CCCA "full Classics." They are also are more rare, then a similar Pierce, Packard or Cadillac. One of the smaller offerings of these companies, might be less expensive, if one can be found.
  19. 2 points
    I'm sure mine leaks tiny bits but I don't notice any puddles in the driveway or in parking lots. I don't recall having an issue when I drove my 55 back in the day either.
  20. 2 points
    This morning, I was surprised to find that the parts that I painted yesterday were not dry. The weather has been odd, too warm for the heat to come on in the garage, too cold for the air conditioner to come on in the garage, and really humid. I moved the parts outside and put them in a sunny location to finish drying in the sun. I then got too busy with the job that pays the bills to work on the Buick any more this morning. Later today, I installed the rubber cover on the accelerator pedal. I decide to apply a bead of silicone sealant around the back edge to make sure that there is no problem with it sliding off of the pedal in the future. I applied some rubber bands to hold the edges tight to the pedal until the silicone sealer cured. Later today, UPS delivered a nice fuel pressure regulator that I purchased on ebay recently so I installed it. This evening, I was able to paint the black inserts of the ignition switch. Hopefully I will have more time tomorrow to work on the Buick.
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Here is one that could be useful on the side of the road.
  24. 2 points
    We had really nice weather today considering it's February. Temperature was about 76 degrees. The wife wanted me to do a few house repairs but I thought it was stupid to waste a nice day doing that so I took off and drove my Reatta instead.
  25. 2 points
    The ad above now shows listing was ended by seller because item was lost or broken.... since we knew it was broken, how the hell did he lose it?
  26. 2 points
    Before I fixed my leaking rear main seal, it would quickly lose 2 quarts like yours especially if driving in hilly locations (my theory was that oil sloshed back to the seal and leaked). After 2 quarts it would stabilize. That engine holds 7 quarts and will not be hurt if 2 quarts low...I would add 1/2 quart when it got 2.5 quarts low on the dip stick.
  27. 2 points
    You got your work cut out for you there. Keep it up.
  28. 2 points
    Time to get some signs or something up that will keep all the neighbors from asking when is the saloon going to be finished. After considering a large 20's 30's script lettered BUICK painted sign and getting some estimates from some sign painters I decided on another route and am glad I did. I ordered some large MDF (medium density fiber) letters from Woodland Manufacturing. Took quite a bit of sanding and ended up laying on 4 coats of paint (and sanding between each coat) on the front and 3 on the back. Each coat had to completely dry for several days in the sun before sanding and applying the next coat, so it too a couple of weeks total. I drilled the mounting holes before painting so the MDF would be completely sealed off from water. B-U-I-C-K Always under my feet... and Kowpi too... The letter inspector keeping me straight Glued and screwed
  29. 2 points
    I don't know of many open 7-passenger touring cars that also have roll-up windows. You're talking oranges and grapefruits, so to speak. A convertible sedan will have roll-up windows but most are 5-passenger models, not 7. A 7-passenger touring car will not have windows, just side curtains. They look significantly different, even though both are 4-door convertibles, with the touring cars generally being more sporting and less formal-looking. Convertible sedans often have a more upright look simply because of the roll up windows--the angles have to be straighter to accommodate the flat glass. Here's a 1934 Packard Eight convertible sedan: Here's a 1934 Packard Eight 7-passenger touring: You can see the differences quite easily. One isn't better than the other, but the experience is different. For instance, I know of very few convertible sedan owners who actually put their tops down regularly because it's a big job. Phaeton tops go down more easily but don't seal up as well in inclement weather (although neither will be anything like a modern car). At any rate, if you're looking for a big, high-end open car, you can't go wrong with any of the major marques, Cadillac, Packard, Lincoln, Marmon, etc. Bodies can be catalog bodies or customs, and prices are all over the map depending on how much car is under the body and just how custom the body is. There are those who will argue for their own personal favorites, but in that time period, all the high-end marques were exceptional cars. Find the one you like the best and that's the right one for you. I would encourage you to drive all your potentials as well, since they often do drive quite differently. Again, not better or worse, just different. But you will not regret any quality Full Classic open car of the early '30s, they're my personal favorites. Have fun in the search!
  30. 1 point
    I am the second owner of this 33 year old 9 passenger wagon. It was bought new by my mother in law's neighbor. I have owned the car 5 years and used it as a second car at my home in Florida. This car was certified HPOF Original at the 2017 AACA Meet in Ocala Florida, where the car is currently located. This car has the last Chevrolet of that era to used the Chevrolet 305 V-8 while the sedan were already using the Oldsmobile 305. Car is equipped with cruise control, AM/FM radio, power steering and brakes, power windows and locks, but oddly no power seat. I replaced the water pump, tie rods and center link, brakes, original alternator was rebuilt, new exhaust, new A/C compressor and A/C lines system was retrofitted to 134. The only thing this car could use is maybe a set of shocks. It is in very nice used car there are a few bruises on the right side from exiting and entering the garage. Someone touched up some of the wood grain with paint that was damaged and did a pretty good job of it, however I have a roll of the correct color and pattern wood grain di-noc material that goes with the car. I also located a set of NOS floor mats that add to the car and make a nice touch.The original factory grey primer is still on the bottom of the floorboards. This is a rust free car! from Long Island New York, was in a heated garage it's entire existence and never was taken out in the snow. I have the original owners manual, shop manual and sales literature, I also have an NOS rear bumper filler panel that is broken, This car will be listed for sale in the classifieds of the next issue of our great magazine Antique Automobile a nice clean car, fly in and drive it home! $8200 PM me if interested (PLEASE NOTE I WILL BE OUT OF TOWN FOR A FEW DAYS THIS WEEK AND WILL BE AWAY FROM EMAIL I WILL CONTACT YOU ONCE I GET ON LINE AGAIN) Thanks for looking
  31. 1 point
    Putting our speedster project up for sale, be the terror of the neighborhood this summer. $4,250 overhauled engine, trans, ton of spares. See details in Model T section. Thanks for looking.
  32. 1 point
    Had some fun shopping 2day! Seller didnt have much time, so have to return another day. Used, but a full set (10)of pretty nice interior handle escutchions and a windshield washer switch/valve, reproduction, but very nicely done! And a very perfect knob!
  33. 1 point
    There is a little bit of information in the previous discussion about the new library/headquarters building here:
  34. 1 point
    Try this Carter BB1 Updraft carb and this BB1 Updraft diagram
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    One concern I've had since the woods was that the front wheels did not turn at all. Thankfully today I was able to pull the passenger side brake drum, clean it up (until my angle grinder started smoking) along with the bearings, pack those, and spray it with some paint to protect from humidity. Luckily, the bearings and races all looked amazing. I'm keeping the brake shoes and their linkage out to work on in the meantime but they won't be needed for a couple months at least. One down, four to go! i also did a little wire wheeling on the frame and other grease-covered stuff just to check it out. Everything looks really great–very encouraging.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Hi Gary, if you look at my first post dealing with the running boards, in one picture you’ll see a rubber running board cover sitting on top of the metal board. A NIB pair of 32' Oldsmobile Northfield Ltd. rubber covers were with the car in the barn it was stored in. They are an earlier set as the metal backing with bolts is molded in. I have to drill holes in the boards to mount them. The latest version Northfield make comes in two pieces and you have to glue the rubber to the sheet metal piece that has the bolts. I’ve had some people tell me that the early version boards dried up and got hard cracking almost immediately. These rubber boards have been around for 20+ yrs and are still soft and subtle. Possibly it’s the ultraviolet light that raises hell with them but time will tell. I’m not running out to get new ones without using these first. I also had some tell me that the problem was corrected on the later ones produced with with the vulcanized backing plate. As we all know there’s many stories that about our cars and we can only believe a few at the most in many cases.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Problem solved! It was something simple. I played around with the handle for awhile and finally got it to go in all the way by first inserting it part of the way, then turning it 90 degrees, at which time it goes down some more, apparently into another slot. Fits and works like a charm! Thanks for all of the help and photos. Pete
  43. 1 point
    You need to realize that if you get rid of the heat riser and bolt the exhaust pipe to the manifold, you're moving your pipes closer to the chassis. Do some work on thar bad riser so that it now becomes a spacer.
  44. 1 point
    Don't see many of these wagons around anymore Neat Wagon!
  45. 1 point
    OMG What will we use for sealing core (freeze) plugs? Seriously good stuff.Maybe to be PC they are just changing its name.
  46. 1 point
    Thinking about putting in the LT1 and trans....until I saw the torque tube.....DOH!
  47. 1 point
    Listen to the first half and come on. Or you could just wait til the Grand Opening... You keep watching, I'll keep posting... or both!!! Actually I like the idea of "I work for parts" get in that Super or even the lil TR-3 and come on down Dave!!!
  48. 1 point
    Here's a picture of my Reatta at the end of driveway, taken today, Valentines Day 2018. Then I left to have dinner with my sweetie. Keith
  49. 1 point
    The dreaded ran when parked disclaimer!
  50. 1 point
    I really like this photo. These Reattas belong to forum member ZoltanB. I wonder what happened to Zoltan? He's not posted on the forum for a long time.