Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Time to get some signs or something up that will keep all the neighbors from asking when is the saloon going to be finished. After considering a large 20's 30's script lettered BUICK painted sign and getting some estimates from some sign painters I decided on another route and am glad I did. I ordered some large MDF (medium density fiber) letters from Woodland Manufacturing. Took quite a bit of sanding and ended up laying on 4 coats of paint (and sanding between each coat) on the front and 3 on the back. Each coat had to completely dry for several days in the sun before sanding and applying the next coat, so it too a couple of weeks total. I drilled the mounting holes before painting so the MDF would be completely sealed off from water. B-U-I-C-K Always under my feet... and Kowpi too... The letter inspector keeping me straight Glued and screwed
  2. 3 points
    Door Lock Problem Another item on my list was fixing the door locks so I could lock my car. When I got the car, the key cylinder was missing altogether from the driver's door, and the key would not open the door on the passenger side. As a result, it was possible to lock the car, but that didn't do me any good because there was no way to unlock it from the outside once it was locked. First step was to remove all the hardware and take the door panels off. I don't know about anyone else, but I'm not a big fan of the GM system of securing the inside cranks and handles with those nearly impossible to get at clips that have a tendency to "fly away" once you finally get them off. I got a special tool from Bob's that helps a lot, but it's still a hassle. But enough complaining ... Here's the latch mechanism, door handle, and key lock once I got them out of the door. The Shop Manual had very good instructions with photos showing how to do this. (I love the photos in the shop manual that always show the mechanics dressed in white smocks like doctors.) I was fortunately able to see right away where the problem was. The round piece with the triangular hole for the rod from the key cylinder has two "ears" on it (one of which is obscured in this photo). The pointy part (lever?) is supposed to sit down between the two ears. When you turn the key, the ears hit the lever and either lock or unlock the door (pulling the button down or popping it up). On my car, the lever had gotten bent up so it rode above the "ears" and consequently, turning the key did nothing. Here's a close up showing the lever riding on top of one of the "ears" instead of sitting down between them. Side view showing the problem Lever bent back down -- all fixed. All cleaned up and ready to get a little grease in the right spots and go back in the car. I have to wait to put everything back together because I ordered new rubber from Steele's while I had it all apart. It will sure expand my horizons to be able to lock the car when I park it!
  3. 2 points
    The key is overall diameter and sidewall height. I have some very tall 17" tires on mine. Still enough sidewall for a good ride, but still proportioned right.
  4. 2 points
    This was originally posted by TBENVIE. I am re-posting so other's in the future will have an easy way to find this valuable information. I have completed most of the 1991 database information and would like to share what I have for the convertibles. First, sorry to say no Polo Green converts showed up on the list from GM. The 34 VINs also showed up as unbuilt, and they did not have colors or any other info assigned to them. I also searched CarFax and AutoCheck and these VINs did not show up anywhere. I'm not speculating on anything, just saying the GM supplied documents do not show them. You will have to make your own judgement. Here is the color breakdown: Black-44 Blue-22 Burgundy-13 Green-0 Grey-5 Red-88 Silver-23 White-110 The top colors were all listed as vinyl, with color breakdown as follows: Black-44 Tan-105 White-131 Interior colors: (cars in parentheses are how many had 16 way seats) Blue-31 (19) Grey-53 (25) Red-98 (52) Saddle-120 (57) White/Blue-3 (1) White/Red-2 (2) So a more thorough breakdown: Color Top Interior (Total # Color) (Total # Color) (16 Way Seats) Black (44) Black (29) Grey-12 (7) Black (44) Black (29) Red-7 (3) Black (44) Black (29) Tan-10 (6) Black (44) Tan (13) Tan-13 (7) Black (44) White (2) Grey-2 (2) Blue (22) Black (1) Blue-1 (1) Blue (22) White (21) Blue-17 (11) Blue (22) White (21) Grey-3 (0) Blue (22) White (21) White/Blue-1 (0) Burg (13) Black (2) Grey-2 (2) Burg (13) Tan (2) Red-1 (0) Burg (13) Tan (2) Saddle-10 (2) Grey (5) Black (4) Blue-1 (1) Grey (5) Black (4) Grey-3 (0) Grey (5) White (1) Grey-1 (1) Red (88) Black (8) Grey-2 (1) Red (88) Black (8) Red-5 (3) Red (88) Black (8) Saddle-1 (1) Red (88) Tan (68) Grey-2 (2) Red (88) Tan (68) Saddle-66 (29) Red (88) White (12) Grey-1 (0) Red (88) White (12) Red-10 (7) Red (88) White (12) Saddle-1 (0) Silver (23) Black (22) Blue-2 (2) Silver (23) Black (22) Grey-18 (7) Silver (23) Black (22) Red-2 (0) Silver (23) White (1) Grey-1 (0) White (110) Black (3) Grey-1 (1) White (110) Black (3) Red-2 (1) White (110) Tan (13) Tan-13 (6) White (110) White (94) Blue-10 (5) White (110) White (94) Grey-5 (3) White (110) White (94) Red-96 (52) White (110) White (94) Saddle-120 (57) White (110) White (94) White/Red-2 (2) White (110) White (94) White/Blue-2 (1) 176 converts had CDs, 112 had both CDs and 16 way seats (I have which ones in a database) Pinstripes-I also have individual cars and combination color/top/interior, but here is a total rundown: Delete-42 Black-20 Blue-19 Gold-107 Gunmetal-13 Red-77 Red/Grey-3 White-24 Moldings- Black-160 (to include the 49 black cars) Blue-12 Burgundy-10 Grey-1 Red-43 Silver-5 White-75 There were 19 cars built with Calif. emissions. There were 15 cars built for Canada 17 cars had white wheels, including all 5 white leather interior cars. The first 6 cars were designated as Pilot Cars. (VIN 2, 8, 9, 11, 12) 6 cars were designated ENG TEST CARS. (VIN 14, 15, 16, 17, 329, 347. Cars 329 and 347 were sold to the public). 5 cars had a COLOR OVERRIDE: 436-Red, Blk top, Red interior, blk moldings, delete pinstripe (There were 5 Red cars with a Black top and a Red interior) 477-Burg, Tan top, Red int, Burg moldings, delete pinstripe (only one made) 498-Red, Tan top, Grey int, Red moldings, Gold pinstripe (only two made) 571-Red, Tan top, Grey int, Red moldings, Gold pinstripe (only two made) 572-Red, White top, Saddle int, Red moldings, Gold pinstripe (only one made) The first 12 1991 Reattas had this tire code: QGW TIRE,ALL P215/60 R/16 N BL R/PE ST TL HWY TIRE(QGW) All the others had this one: QPE TIRE ALL- P215/60R16/N BL R/PE ST TL AL2 TIRE(QPE) Regular 91 production began the week of December 12, 1990. Here is the dates of the first 12 convertible builds: 900002 3/23/90 900005 4/2/90 900008 4/5/90 900009 4/6/90 900011 4/10/90 900012 4/9/90 900013 4/11/90 900014 9/3/90 900015 9/3/90 900016 9/3/90 900017 9/3/90 900242 12/12/90 Car #622 is the convert with the highest VIN, built March 7, 1991. However, cars 610, 619, 621 were all built March 11, 1991 thus ending convertible production. (The 34 unbuilt VINs begin with car #624) The first 11 cars (Pilot/Eng cars) did NOT have this RPO: V4J IDENTIFICATION MID-YEAR INTRODUCTION OF REATTA CONVERTIBLE POWER PULL DOWN MOTORS WHICH WILL REPLACE THE MANUAL SYSTEM. ELEC F/TOP(V4J) There were a lot of PACKAGE OPTIONS and CONTROL -SALES ITEMS I have not been able to identify. If you could post your ID label from the spare tire wheelwell it may help determine what some of these codes are
  5. 2 points
    I have been a bit behind with another medical issue. But, if many may recall, the Covered Bridge Tour in Allentown was a "free form" driving tour, totally on your own, so I would suggest that you just provide maps and point out attractions, and drive on their ow, any day they want. I would hate to see trying to keep 30+ cars together on a group drive. Just my opinion. John
  6. 2 points
    I just had the opportunity after a 5 hr road trip (well worth it) to finally drive my first 38 Buick Century! It was exciting and despite some carburetor problems (which I will address separately) I was able to drive it down the road up to about 45-50 mph... My initial impression, while trying to corner the car, perhaps a bit to fast-I thought it rolled easily and seemed a little bouncy... Since the speedo was not working, I was probably unknowingly pushing the car on tight turns faster than I should have! Steering was smooth, but always required two hands and the wheel quickly returned to the center afterwards.. If anything, for me if the steering wheel was a bit smaller I feel I could handle the car better... Still, by the third and fourth time around the neighborhood the car felt like second nature to me... My other impressions on the car besides sporadic and very small chattering from the clutch, was smooth shifting with decent braking ability and plenty of power out of the 320 Cu motor that run quietly @ 180 F. and with 35-45 lbs of oil pressure. Again, the only major problems was a malfunctioning choke and the L/R brake shoe that was lazy returning into position which I adjusted and improved, though I told the owner it would still require disassembly and a little never seize on all pivot points to be right... Additional thoughts regarding the condition were: 1947 fireball engine, dented center grill trim, missing body tag, a non working speedometer, incorrect/ improperly adjusted clutch return spring and some engine oil leaking from various points along the pan but not enough (In my mind) to leave a 4x5" stain on the pavement where we had the car running for probably 20 minutes at idle while revving the engine up-messing with the carburetor... One thing I found very odd though; the fact that the restorer welded the drain hole shut on the bottom flywheel cover!.. Why? Some oil always sweats from the rope seal and needs to come out, unless they tried to hide a problem that goes back quite a few years... On a plus side, for being a 20 year old restoration the car is pretty much pristine underneath, with very good paint (with only a couple of deep scratches on the r/h fender and a few other small ones around the nose) has a very nice interior with good rubber and glass, good tires (No cracks, but are they safe if they are 15 years old? ) It would also would come with a car cover, service manual, a radio (Not installed that needs repair) two headlamps without lenses, a parking brake cable and a few other small parts that I did not inspect that were boxed... So, I really welcome your thoughts here... Please see the few photos taken by my wife, with a phone unfortunately...
  7. 2 points
    '64 Riviera at Wheels of Yesteryear automobile museum in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. http://wheelsofyesteryearmb.com It's a nice looking car but has the wrong center caps. You are not supposed to open the hood so I could not see the engine. If you are a Mopar fan this museum is for you. Lots of great Mopar muscle cars are here.
  8. 1 point
    Mighty quite on this site ,any one going besides me and a few from Houma,La???
  9. 1 point
    Adequate oil? Clockwise rotation? Check oil filter for oil. Faster drill (I never have used a battery device, but they are usually slower). Make, borrow or buy ($$$) an engine preluber kit that forces oil into the oil pressure sensor fitting. A friend rigged one from a cheap garden sprayer.
  10. 1 point
    Either would be suitable. AW stands for anti wear meaning the oil has anti wear additives. 32 is for ISO32 grade which is the same thickness as 10W motor oil. GL 303 would be practically the same thing. 1 gallon is a lifetime supply for topping up the Fluid Drive and changing the transmission oil every 10,000 miles.
  11. 1 point
    Kyle, I am interested in the Fiber gear. It will make a good spare. Hugh
  12. 1 point
    Old Tank: Hold off on that paint can. Here is a picture of my insulation pad. I purchased it some years back from these people: https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1955-buick-restoration-parts-hood-52759-prd1.htm This picture was taken with out a flash to hopefully represent the true color, dark grey. The flash picture shows the pad in a greenish color. Even the non-flash picture shows a tint of green. Hope this helps.
  13. 1 point
    One way to help diagnose it would be to take all of the fan belts off and see if the noise is still there. If it is not then add the fan belts back on one at a time. If you have the noise with all of the fan belts off, then you might be looking at a base engine problem or even a flex plate. To me it sounds a noise coming from the engine lot like a pulley or rotating part like the AIR pump with the noise. That is why the suggestion above. I have also used a yard stick to track down noises. Like said above, BE CAREFUL around rotating objects.
  14. 1 point
    I picked up one for my car. But it had to be something special.
  15. 1 point
    It has taken a while because I've been a little busy with other stuff. But here are some pictures of my mostly finished 1933 Chevy Air Cleaner that I purchased through the internet (thanks to the AACA Forum website and Dave Henderson). I still need to attach the decal that I got from The Filling Station. But I will wait a few days before putting it on to let the paint cure for a while. I used heat resistant enamel primer and paint. And Chore Boy copper pads. My thanks to everyone who gave the advise on this project. I am totally satisfied with how it turned out.
  16. 1 point
    Wow. I just bounce the car up and down. Have done this since 1950 or so. Ben
  17. 1 point
    If you change the springs, don't throw the old ones away! They are extremely valuable! There are more than a few misguided individuals out there that want their car slammed to the ground and those sagging spring will fit the bill! I have some on a 55 Special with 365,000 miles that I am holding out for big bucks!
  18. 1 point
    Agree. "threaded insert" generally refers to a "helicoil" or a "timesert" Two different items that usually obtain the same objective. Helicoil: http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/heli-coil Timecert: http://www.timesert.com/
  19. 1 point
    Suggest rephrasing your search. This is not a threaded insert. Try "Captive Nut" , "Cage Nut" or "Speed Nut" . Restoration Specialties in Windber, PA Offers many Cage and Speed Nuts. Restoration Specialties & Supply, Widber, PA
  20. 1 point
    You might find something workable at McMaster Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=1bjpzqs https://www.mcmaster.com/#barbed-inserts/=1bjq013
  21. 1 point
    My steering wheel was in good shape with small cracking in the three attachment areas to the wheel spider. Reading up on the web I found most use POR epoxy putty to repair the cracks then sand and paint the wheel. I routed out the cracks all the way to the steel core with a dremel round ball cutter then packed the cracks full of putty and smoothed it with a wet finger. After sanding it level, I spot puttied any depression I could find. My friend and fellow scale RC plane builder, Gerry DuPont, is going to air brush it with an epoxy filler primer then sand it down further removing any small scratches and blemishes. It will then be painted with a two part epoxy gloss black which should yield a nice durable finish on the wheel. More small stuff getting done.
  22. 1 point
    Well maybe I’m wrong but this engine is complete with manifolds, carb, distributor, fuel pump, starter, bell housing, and transmission and I think $450 is a damn good price. If it doesn’t need any rebuilding, it’s a virtual drop in. Easy to test run too the way it Is.
  23. 1 point
    And here is the sheet that identifies the 1918 E-49 data. See if your numbers match this Buick official record sheet compared to the 1917 list.
  24. 1 point
    Agree with Terry. My 1918 E-4 Truck was originally titled as a 1917. Looking at the Vin, it is an early truck so I sure it was titled in the fall of 1917. I eventually got the title corrected to match the truck as a 1918. Just took some documentation to the secretary of states office and showed what it should have been and they corrected it for I think about $15.00. Title now matches the model year.
  25. 1 point
    Most of these guys are right. However a couple of thoughts. Dont take anything off that doesnt need to come off. Yes, they are heavy, but if you have a good hoist that would be no problem. I lifted my Roadmaster engine and trans (minus shift lever) by removing just the rocker arm shaft and using front and rear bolts from that in the head. I'd be a little afraid to lift via the rocker shaft for fear the aluminum stanchions might break - I have seen them broken from a lift. No need to remove the steering column, manifolds, water pump, generator or starter unless you just want to. Might help to take out the rear engine mounts though. I'm pretty sure you do have to remove the transmission mount (it has been a long time for me). I wouldnt even think of trying to pull the engine with the front clip on. You'd have to lift a mile in the air for that. Don