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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2017 in all areas

  1. I have been driving for 55 years. I have never had, or heard of, a catastrophic master cylinder failure. Like disc brakes and 12 volt systems, we have been told that they are better, so many times, that it has become "fact". Be sure to get all of that hydraulic fluid out. I'm sure a little bit won't hurt. Add motor oil and change it after you get it running. Bring number one piston up to TDC on the compression stroke. You can tell by holding your thumb in the plug hole and feeling the compression pop it off. Take off the distributor cap. The terminal that the rotor is pointing at is the number one terminal. Wire the rest in order according to direction of rotation
    4 points
  2. And as a gift to myself because I'm worth it, 2 Coker Classic 2 1/2 8.00-15 bias ply just arrive to my office. Now the 60 will have new rubber on all 4 corners. Life is better in a Buick.
    3 points
  3. I have a 1931-1932 Ontario Motor League Road Book. It's fun trying to map out car club tours using it for a guide. Instructions like "Turn right after crossing railway tracks" (torn out 40 years ago) or "turn left at big elm tree" makes it a bit challenging. Jim
    3 points
  4. Rescued. My Honey asked me what I wanted for Christmas and here it is.
    3 points
  5. Some of the owners listed on the registry are still around, but sold their cars 20+ years ago. I own one of them, a 1919 Sportif that is of course before the year range you're seeking. This is my car.
    3 points
  6. It is now time to show how much you got and your old car in the snow..
    2 points
  7. The best solution is to quit drinking coffee while you're driving and pay attention to what you're supposed to be doing.
    2 points
  8. I would suggest rebuilding the original master cylinder. It was sufficient for many years and will be again. Putting in a dual reservoir master cylinder will not make things safer. Chrysler engineering was the best when your car was built.
    2 points
  9. From my son. A bit late in the game but when he heard I had broken two hand winches trying to pull my stuck four wheel drive Silverado hooked to my car hauling trailer out of a bog he thought this might come in handy next time. A simple machine but awesomely powerful.
    2 points
  10. At 12 below to cold to go out and take a picture. I will stay by the fire instead!
    2 points
  11. This old gal shouldn't follow such nasty short trends. LoL Happy New Year everyone!
    2 points
  12. Hugh, I don't think the leather band is to hold the oil back but to protect the ball from dirt. Compared to the picture in the shop manual I do probably not have a '28 transmission or at least a different shell...
    2 points
  13. Update. Smarty-Pants Daughter #2 (home for Christmas, all the kids are) showed Dad on modern Google map the route described in 1920. "Just think Dad, you'd be lost without me" Yes I would.
    2 points
  14. I will keep it for you only drive it when it needs gas .might need gass often !! Kyle
    2 points
  15. Sometimes you just scratch your head and wonder what buyer's expect. I let customers run tabs to build piles of parts or literature to save them money on shipping. This is often quite significant especially on large lots of literature which can be shipped Media mail or orders going over seas. Most customers are good and many international buyer's are the best I have had, buying several orders. I specify in all my listings that I will do this as a service for you, but payment needs to be made in under 30 days. (that's more than reasonable and very generous when compared to most sellers policies. ) Today I had 2 that made me want to just switch to immediate payment and be done with it. The first a buyer took the full 30 days and bought 52 brochures. I've never had an order that big before, though 20-30 is not uncommon. After much messing around, I invoiced him but part of the order was missing from the invoice according to him. After more research I finally figured out eBay limits invoices to 40 items. I think it took over an hour just to pull the order. Many of these were 2.99 sales so I'm not talking much of a sale here for the effort, especially figuring I had to buy all of these in the first place then pay all the fees. I eventually got it all figured out invoiced as 2 separate orders in separate boxes because I wasn't going to tear that first package all apart to save the guy 6.00 in shipping on 52 items. I think the total shipping on the 2 is still around 15.00. He was good about it though and has bought a bit from me in the past so I'll let it slide and chalk it up as a learning experience. The second was an international buyer that won 2 items 6 weeks ago. After 30 days and no word, I just relisted the better of the 2 items which only sold for 20.oo the first time anyways just so I could get the inventory moved out off my shelf. Wouldn't you know that same bidder bid on it again and won, now he contacts me and wants a total for the 3 items. I told him, my policy clearly stated in the listings is "***Payment is expected in a reasonable amount of time. Any items not paid for within 30 days of the auctions end, will be relisted and you will be SOL. ***** He's mad at me for relisting the item on him. I wouldn't be surprised if he nails me with a negative, but at this point I could care less. He also wants to buy the item at the lower price it sold for and was never paid for 6 weeks ago. I told him I would let him have it for the lesser, though it means I actually sell it for half of what it's worth and actually at or below what I paid for it, before I figure in the fees and 15 percent eBay charge on the international shipping which will again be more than the 20.00 sale price. I think I've been more than fair. What more would you expect as a buyer? Thankfully most customers are good, just the occasional one that get's your blood pressure up. The taste of the bad transactions, though not many, make it easier to walk away from parts lots to purchase and even easier to clean the shop out into a dumpster when the time comes. Most of this stuff is really just junk to 99.9% of the population until it's properly marketed identified and prepared so they can buy the one or two pieces they want and not have to deal with all the crap left over.
    1 point
  16. Having purchased the assets of ROMAR and the Barker Machine Shop, ROMAR will now be know as ROMAR DB Parts and Services. I will continue to provide the same great parts and services you have come to expect from ROMAR. We all wish Vern and Florence the best in retirement. ROMAR DB Parts and Services can be reached at www.romardb.com, by email: romardb@frontier.com or by calling 315-924-2490. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
    1 point
  17. HELLO EVERYONE THIS WEEKEND IM GOING TO LOOK AT A 1930 GRAHAM COUPE,IT WAS DISMANTELED FOR RESTORATION AND NEVER FINISHED,THE FRAME HAS BEEN POWDER COATED AND THE BABBIT HAS BEEN REDONE HAS WIRE WHEELS THATS ALL I REALLY KNOW AT THIS TIME,HOW DO I KNOW WHICH MODEL IT IS,ITS SUPPOSED TO BE 100 PERCENT COMPLETE BUT ITS BEEN MOVED ONCE SINCE DISASSEMBLY,ANY THING I CAN LOOK AT TO TELL WHICH MODEL IT IS,SAYS ALL THE WOOD IT THERE FOR PATTERNS BUT WILL NEED NEW WOOD ITS CHEAP, DAVE
    1 point
  18. I did not take photos that showed it after I got almost all of the rust off of it yesterday but I am not done with it. I probably could have gotten by without the primer at that stage, but I did not want to take a chance on any freshly cleaned metal developing any surface rust. I plan to get all of the rust off or else treat it with some ospho or a similar metal treatment. Today I did some more sanding and also removed a small fiberglass repair in the trunk tool tray that was done by a previous owner. I did not take any photos today.
    1 point
  19. I have decided to spend the $310 on an American Made Master cylinder replacement. if anyone has a reason why I should not go that rout and go for the cheaper one, please feel free to share your opinion. I was thinking this vehicle is made in America and to keep it as American as possible, I should buy the American Master Cylinder.
    1 point
  20. If you don't get that number 1 plug wire in the right place, brakes won't be a problem. Now, finding #1 is pretty easy. Are you sure you want to re-engineer the brake system? I am nudging 60 years of very deep involvement working on old cars and putting a lot of miles on them. I do brake service that I am quite confident in; and I have no desire or see any need to fiddle around with a bunch of hardware and have long heart to hearts with the counterman to scab in a double master cylinder. I also run four wheel drum brakes and biased tires. Of course, my brake lining is younger that my youngest child and the tires are even younger, both by a lot. Give yourself a level of comfort for the technology. Go on Ebay and buy a couple of 1937 automotive trade magazines. Take a look at just the pictures, Sun or Allen diagnostic centers, oscilloscopes, Bear alignment equipment, brake lathes, Triplett VOM's; really techie stuff. And you get to thinking, maybe you can't keep these cars going right with baling wire and a pair of pliers. There is more to it. Just a hair over 30 years later a couple guys walked on the moon. The technology is there. Don't get sucked in. Bernie
    1 point
  21. Just a little dusting on the hills across the freeway from our place....
    1 point
  22. Plenty of snow on the mountain a mile away on the 4th of December. And it's mid-summer here in Australia! We had one of those big Southerlies that would blow the milk out of your tea.
    1 point
  23. We just received a 1930 Graham sedan, dual sidemounts as a donation! Our library may be able to help you if you end up with the car. Good luck.
    1 point
  24. OK Buick People: I got a 64 Mercedes I need to unload. I'm a Buick guy 100% and this is not for me. It's ... White with a blue vinyl interior Does not run because it's been laying in my garage since 1996 It is what we call a beater. Straight, old cheap re-paint, presentable interior but anything but sharp. Doesn't appear rusty but it's still shoehorned in the garage and I can't tell. So here's my plan. I'd like 15 grand plus a really good 63, 64 or 65 Riviera or a really good B-60. I'm gonna pull it of my garage Monday and detail the daylights out of it then trailer it to the shop and get it running. Whadda ya think???? So far all the folks that have responded have been flippers. I don't care who buys it as long as I get what I'd like. Cash price???? Good question. I was asking 37.5 too high, maybe, but it's a start. If I can't swap around I'm gonna put on ebay in January cleaned up, running and driving with no reserve. The car in in the San Francisco East Bay. Thanks for your consideration, Mitch
    1 point
  25. I’ve sold a gamut of different items on eBay from cars and 5th wheel campers to model planes and trains. Thankfully, all the major auto and camper sales have gone extremely well except for one on a 27’ Chevy capital sedan. That buyer was one of those mentioned here already that I had to report to eBay as a scammer trying to not fully pay for the sale. When that buyer threatened me that he was going to report me, I told him I had already made eBay aware of the sale and had forwarded all my emails and his replies to me and that they were monitoring the correspondence. Never heard another word from him and he paid the sale. Had a model train guy tell me his $18 dollar item hadn’t arrived. I checked with the PO and tracking showed it was still in transit though it was taking much longer than usual for a MA to FL package. I asked the buyer to wait and forwarded him the message from the PO. So, instead, he opened a case with eBay and this is where eBay pi$$ed me off as they told me to refund his money. Sure enough, I refunded his money and next day PO shows delivery. Sent an email to the buyer questioning if he got the package. Never heard from him again. Makes me wonder if he has a friend at the local PO who was holding that package. Unethical yes, but not impossible these days. The main thing that really PO’s me it eBay charging percentage commission on shipping charges. You use their shipping calculator and put those values down and they still charge you. That’s BS and they are double dipping on the sale. I no longer put a real shipping cost on the item and tell the buyer to contact me as I will calculate the true shipping to their door. I also put that if they do not contact me and just pay for the item with the $1 shipping charge that’s listed, I will cancel the sale. ( i learned the hard way on that one!)
    1 point
  26. As much as I hate the cold I don't think I want to relocate to CA. Lots of fire and brimstone there as of late.
    1 point
  27. Supposed to be 85 in SoCal today
    1 point
  28. I like swap meets and attend as many as I can each year. I also buy things on Ebay. A few of my projects are quite rare machines and if I depended on swap meets alone I would most likely never live long enough to complete any of the rare ones. Actually even with Ebay progress is glacial many years, the rare stuff I need rarely shows up anywhere I search. I don't buy nearly as many "ordinary" parts on Ebay anymore, the shipping has gotten to the point that Ebay is no longer competitive. Greg
    1 point
  29. I would for sure consider that, but that was replaced earlier in the year so I doubt it could be those
    1 point
  30. When you structure a deal as a restricted or specific swap, you are severely limiting the buyer pool. In this case, to almost no one. Far better to do two transactions: sell this one, then buy the next one. One might also suggest that a car that's been sitting in a garage for 20 years may prove to be a great investment for the seller -- but it might not be such a great investment for the guy who buys it.
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. Thats a mean mug on that 67. Hehehehe. Heres one of the 73 zombie repeller bumper... HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
    1 point
  33. That is, in my opinion, the exact definition of a "matching numbers" car. It was almost never done in the prewar days. Apparently Oldsmobile in 1932 is an exception. The practice of stamping the same number in different locations became common in the US auto industry in the late 1960s. The number of locations stamped increased as time went on.
    1 point
  34. 35* and cloudy here, but dry, so took the '39 out for some errands. Put about 18 miles on it and had it up to 50 mph a couple of times. First time I have run the heater since probably March (after turning the shut-off valve back on). Always nice to get out in this temperature and not have to worry about any possibility of overheating - ran at about 170-175* the entire trip.
    1 point
  35. I have a love/hate relationship with 2-seat Thunderbirds (I currently have a moratorium on 2-seat T-Birds in my shop, although I just sold one that I liked very much). They are lovely cars to look at, but you have to remember that Ford management basically said to the engineers, "See that 1953 Corvette? Go build us one of those. You have 16 months and no money." The result is about what you think would result from that kind of a plan. It is a beautiful body atop a 1940s chassis. It is crude and rude to drive, the seating position is awful for anyone over about 5'8" and even with power steering, it's a handful despite being a small car. The hardware underneath is tough, which is good news, and parts are plentiful from the catalogs. The stuttering you describe is probably not a major issue--old cars use carburetors and carburetors use chokes, and when they're cold, they can be cranky. The colder it is outside, the longer it takes for the carburetor to warm up properly. Add in today's gas and the lack of carburetor tuning knowledge at most mechanic shops, and you get cars like that which run "pretty well" but not like they should and the cold only exacerbates it. The mechanical hardware in a '57 Thunderbird is robust and proven and the combination was sorted out decades ago. They finally did away with the dreadful teapot Holley carburetor and installed a proper Holley 4-barrel, which will be a lot easier to service and tune. It will absolutely be louder than your Audi and 65 MPH will sound very busy indeed without overdrive. Ignore the odometer reading, it could be anything and is indicative of nothing--was it rebuilt and set to 0 at some point, from another car, disconnected for years and years, rolled back in the 1960s, or any other thing. No way to know. Ignore the mileage and go on condition. Leaks are normal, and if it has power steering, expect that particular system to leak A LOT. A few drops are not bad, but puddles are. The Ford-O-Matic transmissions are tough, but I believe they start in 2nd gear, which is why it might have felt lethargic. I don't remember if the 2-seater 'Birds have a selector position that forces them to start in 1st like the later cars, but you can manually pull it back into 1st and it'll run more like the 245 horsepower car that it is. Shifts should be pretty firm and snappy, not sluggish. If anything, they should be too firm compared to today's transmissions. Taking a while to get with the program is probably also a temperature thing, but early Ford-O-Matic transmissions don't have a check valve in the torque converter, so it can take some driving before everything is properly filled with fluid again if it has been sitting a long while. This lack of a check valve is also why most T-Birds have transmissions that leak like crazy--the converter leaks down and over-fills the pan, with fluid overflowing out the rear seal or pan gasket. Not normal, but not abnormal, either. You won't be able to move the seat back any farther than it is because the top needs to fold behind the seat. This is why tall people shouldn't buy 2-seat Thunderbirds. With the top down, it's a bit better behind the wheel, but they aren't for long-legged people. If you move the seat, the top will not stow properly or the seat just won't go back as far as you want--it'll hit the top. There are smaller-diameter wheels that will give you some extra space, but on a manual steering car, you'll miss that big wheel in parking lots. Look at the body mounts under the car, on a lift if possible. I had a '56 Thunderbird that was beautiful on the outside but totally rotted underneath. The body mounts and box-section of rocker panel really go bad in a demonic way. Check it out: Make sure you really get under there and look carefully, because this kind of damage is not readily visible by just sticking your head underneath. The guy from whom I got this car owned it for 20 years and never had any idea it was this badly rusted underneath. Nobody ever looked. Even though you're not a mechanic, these are not complicated cars and you can learn to keep it healthy. You can join a club that will provide a great deal of support, and there are surely guys in your area who specialize in old cars who can service it if you don't feel confident. Get it sorted out properly and it will stay that way for many years, but it's worthwhile to seek out a guy who knows this stuff and let him work on it. Pay him what he asks and you'll have a friend you can rely on. Don't treat him like the dealership mechanic trying to rip you off on an hourly. He's your ally, not just an employee. There's nothing on a Thunderbird that will be expensive or scary to fix (except rust). Trust your gut instincts about the car and its seller. Anything that goes wrong mechanically you can handle. Good luck!
    1 point
  36. I retired from the Met in 2010. During the off season various ballet company's come in for several weeks. One year the Bolshoi Ballet visited New York and performed at the Met. There was a problem with a piece of scenery and I was assigned to work with one of the Russian stage hands. As we were working on the set, this young man took out ( I'm not making this up) a hammer fabricated from a block of steel, welded to a foot long piece of pipe. Well, I must have at least a dozen hammers that I have accumulated over the years. The next day when I went to the stage I presented him with a fiberglass handled, Plumb hammer and told him it was his to keep. You would think that I gave him a million bucks, he must have asked "take back to Russia" a dozen times. He was so excited, he went to just about everyone to show off his new American hammer. I had to accompany him to the Russian Stage Manager to verify that I gave it to him because if they saw him with it they would assume that he stole it and would be in big trouble.
    1 point
  37. I first scuffed up the old paint with a Scotch-brite pad and used some chrome polish on the chrome parts I didn't want painted. Then I used 1/2" masking tape to tape off the ribs, then went around the wheel with two inch masking tape to cover the rest of the chrome covering all the creases. This is where it gets strange. I took a "hook" that is used to dig the meat out of walnuts and used the pointed end to press the masking tape into the creases. Then using a few new Xacto blades, cut away the excess tape following the creases I'd made with the hook - never cutting into the edge of a piece of tape, but cutting through the edge by starting in the middle. Not a lot of skill involved here, just a LOT of time and patience. I tried using 1/4" tape on the ribs, but it didn't let me really get the edges down tight. I then hit any bare spots in the paint where chrome might be showing through with some-self etching primer, let it dry according to instructions on the can, then primered everything with high build primer and let it dry for a good long time. I then went over it again with another Scotch-brite pad and sanded it smooth. Wiped it down with prep (Eastwood calls it PRE) and then went over it with a tack rag. I painted the web's with black enamel from the local hardware store ( I used gloss because I wasn't trying to replicate anything, I just like the shine) and set wheel in the sun to bake - I think this was a big step, the paint cured really hard, smooth, and shiny. So far so good. The car wash hasn't loosened or peeled any paint off. Just don't get into a hurry. Luckily, the car was riding on different tires and wheels when I did this, and the wheels i painted weren't mounted with tires. It's a learning process, don't get flustered; learn from it. The first wheel probably took 90 minutes or more to do. The last two, only about 30 minutes each. This time does not allow for paint drying time, just hands on time. "Miller time" is used to let the paint dry. Ed
    1 point
  38. Price issues aside, nice looking jr. Packard. I think an hour online should yield a pretty good comfort level on price. Having had and sold nearly the identical car (1939, but also a 120 sedan in good all around shape) I think $20 - 22K is spot on. The miles are a plus, and I might look for a little extra for that. I don't think passing it along to the heirs presents a huge headache in this case. Owner might find that less painful than living with a big financial loss and it sounds like, in this case, heirs might not be pressured by time or finances. Selling a nice, usable, fairly popular model is much easier than a half dozen projects. Most dealers I think would be happy to take a car like that on consignment. Easy if they can find a comfortable and realistic price.
    1 point
  39. Not so much heartburn as seller's remorse for putting up with ebay in the first place. When everything is said and done ebay keeps about 20% of the sale price or more if you don't offer free shipping since ebay takes a rake from shipping prices as well. Factor in idiots, the feedback game and the FACT that sellers have no rights it's more of a PIA than anything BUT it's a world market and you get world wide exposure even if some things don't sell.
    1 point
  40. Thank you for the recommendations that sounds like the path I am going to follow.
    1 point
  41. That's probably a little like building a house. We can stand around a bit wondering why it's taking so long, but nobody really puts their finger on it. Happy New Year, Gary!
    1 point
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