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  1. SPOILER ALERT ! SPOILER ALERT ! If you have never been up to Lion Rock but intend to go , you might not want to spoil the surprise by looking at these mere and inadequate pics. SPOILER ALERT ! SPOILER ALERT ! Well , it would not be polite to keep you waiting any longer. I wish I knew how to register this continuous panorama. In sequence then , from right to left , from the cliffs , through Mt Stuart to Mt. Rainier is about a 180 degree sweep. I would never show these pics to anyone who I intended to take up here. It is totally unexpected , and these take the surprise out of it to some degree. There is no clue whatsoever until you get right up to the very top. Maybe we can go up there together some time :
    9 points
  2. My feeling is if I don't see a price, I won't call or email the seller. I am NOT on a fishing expedition. I am NOT bidding on Ebay. State a price or do not post an ad.
    5 points
  3. Believe me when I say I'm not trying make anyone here look bad. It's just that with having been off the road for the past 12 years (yes not a typo) I had fun making up for lost time. And by no way an excuse but funny how "Life just gets in the way sometimes". I did keep track of things this year though and did put 1,070 miles on her. Will be doing a few minor things over the winter so next year should be smooth sailing.
    4 points
  4. Hi JohnD1956 ! Yes , livestock in the valley below , irrigated pasture at around 1500' to 1600'. Some of the finest Timothy , exported ALL around the world. China , Arabia , Japan , etc. The pasture you see in the pics is leased out for Spring grazing. That is around 3000' elev. and no irrigation here. In fact , you can't even punch wells up here anymore. I have a 10 gal/minute well 480' feet deep through a lot of rock. I am allowed to pump as much water as I want at 3 gal/minute ! Minimum lot size up here is 20 acres. Most of us have at least 50. My little mini ranch is the center 50 of 3 contiguous 50s all fenced together. 150 acres makes for happy animals. Most I've ever grazed at one time is 4 cows and 6 horses. One happy horse is now host to a somewhat small (25 or so ?) resident elk herd , and some deer in the heavy brush , and the walnut grove on my 50. The watering hole is also on my 50 , so it makes for contented sharing with deer and elk. Ellensburg is the county seat down in the valley. About 17,000 residents , including the students at Central Washington University. CWU is famous for the breakthrough inter-specific communication by means of sign language with Chimps. A large selection of cultural events , Jazz Festival , Art Festival , etc. , and of course the famous Ellensburg Rodeo. Very fine , friendly , mostly very traditional , hard working community. I learned to drive in the wide open spaces along Old U.S. 10 East of , West of , and through Ellensburg before the Interstate was built. Thanks for asking ! Let's step out of the Subaru and see what the first permanent snowfall looks like while we can still get all the way up and down on wheels. A bit of the panorama , and then let's head back down , and take a look at a section of the road , (a smooth section of the "highway" Bloo refers to) , almost bare for the moment , but not for long. Finally , we will take a look back down to the dry valley below. This plateau makes its own weather. - Carl P.S. : Let's see if we get enough snow to get on the snowmobiles. Let's go on a bright sunny day so we can REALLY see the VIEW ! - CC
    4 points
  5. No price = Over priced. See it on the forums as well with parts for sale. "I have XYZ part for sale but PM me for the price" I'll pass.
    4 points
  6. Thanks for accepting my application into the World of Buick. I have recently acquired a '53 Super 2 dr hardtop (56R). I searched for this car for about a year or so, looking for a unique car that I wouldn't see a thousand like it at the shows. Too many Camaros, Tri Fives, Malibus, Mustangs, etc. As a bonus, I got a car with classic lines and style. I've been reading these Forums and it would seem there aren't many Supers out there. Mine is about as stock as it gets, original, unmolested, paint, interior, numbers matching! No Power Steering, no Power Brakes, no A/C. She came with all of her original trim, bumpers, chrome, stainless, however there will be some assembly required. The body is solid, some surface rust (Patina), the only serious rust I've found is the front floor pans (footwells). My intention is to keep the Patina for now, concentrate on making her reliable, safe, and comfortable to take on the road, to be enjoyed. I am debating on upgrading the brakes to discs, or keeping the stock drums. Power steering would be nice, but I can live with manual steering for now. Living in the South, and a lot of my cruising will begin along the Coast, A/C will be high on the list of upgrades. I'm basically old school and grew up with points and condensers, timing and carb adjustments, so this original stuff doesn't concern me...... yet!!!! I'd like to hear some of the group's experiences and recommendations concerning their '53 Supers, especially DynaFlows, Knee Action Shocks, A/C installations, Steering, and Brakes. Thanks to the group, and more photos will follow!
    3 points
  7. Long before Amazon and others were in the home delivery business, Watkins products brought the goods to your door in a Model T truck as seen in this old photo. Kids seem thrilled to have their photo taken next to the truck! Terry
    3 points
  8. OK Doug you need to quit driving that car so much. You are making a lot of us look BAD! Said with sincere envy
    3 points
  9. "Bassick" 1920's alemite floor pump and a 1920's 405 Weaver Tire Changer
    3 points
  10. 3 points
  11. I made mine from 1 1/2" Chrome plated brass sink drain tubing.
    3 points
  12. I drove George to Arlington, TX Saturday. Chapter meeting. Good food! Good time. Car performed well. Total drive was 281 miles. I had topped up the tank as I left town. At 250 miles, at a pit stop, topped him up again. Only held 13 gal! That, friends, is 19 mpg! Did not baby it. 65 and 70 most of the time. Miles and miles of metro driving. Makes me happy. This was the longest trip I have been on with the 263. Continues to please me with the performance. I can't say if this good or not, but felt good. 62 mph to 80 mph in just under 5 sec. I do not have to hesitate passing . Ben
    3 points
  13. Wait a minute , Bloo. Re-reading this : did we misunderstand each other ? I see I mentioned Snoqualmie Pass. No , the Sub' is not off the highway at the pass. This is at the Table Mountain summit , at Lion Rock. The last 1/4 mile or so is at least as tough as the worst part of Colockum Pass. By the way , I have taken my Off-Road '71 Eldo droptop over Colockum Pass , likewise Lion Rock. No stocker could possibly do that without significant damage , if at all. No , how you get there is : take F.S. 3500 , which is what Reecer Creek Road becomes at my place. You go up about 11 miles to the crossroads , to the right Haney Meadows , left to Lion Rock. Or go straight ahead , and a pretty rough road will take you down to Blewett Pass. We might have talked about this , now I seem to think you might have mentioned that you have not been up there ? I have a feeling that after our upcoming "snowmobile trip" here on the forum , that after you look at the panorama I will show you , you will plan a trip. - Carl P.S. : here is a preview , the Sub' was at this spot , now inaccessible to all but the most able of monster snow trucks. A little later in the Winter , even they would fall short.
    3 points
  14. Same here: no price and I have no interest.
    3 points
  15. In my semi-retirement I do odd jobs at a local general automotive repair shop (Bauerle Automotive in Delaware, OH). He is known for his expertise with Deloreans as well as working on anything people bring in including many vintage vehicles. I thought you'd get a kick out of this photo showing just 3 of the Deloreans parked around the place awaiting their turn.
    2 points
  16. I would recommend joining the RROC and using all that talents available through the club and local chapter to find and buy the best car you can for your money. I did that on a strong commendation in 1994. I have had a lot of nice Buicks since then, but I haven't bought a Bentley or a Rolls-Royce. The person who made the recommendation back in '94 says I am doing good. PM me and I will give you his phone number. I am sure he will take the time to help you. Years ago he went to a modern car brake servicing seminar at club headquarters in Mechanicsburg. When he returned I asked how the seminar went. He said "Not so good. I still think I can do them myself." Bernie
    2 points
  17. It has 1/2 the field running unregulated (for current) and the other half regulated by a non-adjustable third brush. The regulator contains a cutout and a voltage regulator. The generator is spun a little faster than a plain 3rd brush generator is. This works better than you would imagine it could. It is good for about 25 amps, and will charge down a little lower in RPM than a plain third brush setup. Tapering off at higher rpm is minimized.
    2 points
  18. Bloo, The check you speak of is only on the bigger engines in '38. Gary, Congratulations. Great job and I understand your elation on being able to "drive"it. My charge indicator needle does the same thing when idling very slowly.
    2 points
  19. The word "awesome" comes to mind but it is inadequate to describe your pictures of that view!
    2 points
  20. 2 points
  21. I can store your cap hear if u like !! kyle I'll keep it safe and dry
    2 points
  22. Oh , and hey Buick guys and gals : I am FINALLY able to go load up the '30 Buick coupe and get it over the mountains due to the huge break in the weather here. Since my snow pics have provoked so much follow on , here on a Buick forum , I fully intend to make amends by getting a pic of the new addition in the snow. If all the non-Buick content I have generated is misplaced here , please have it transferred to general. It really has mushroomed , but it has been great fun cruising with you all ! - No one has named me Bubba Buick yet.
    2 points
  23. And the claim that "If you have to ask, you can't afford it" is not valid, for any car at any price. Even well-off people I know are concerned about the cost, and they don't spend profligately. No one ever got rich by going shopping.
    2 points
  24. On #2, mine does that as well at idle. What RPM are you set to? If it's low enough the cutout may be engaging, which definitely will make the needle jump. I know you overhauled the elec system completely, but how was the voltage reg set up? Usually it is best to do the final adjustment while installed in the car.
    2 points
  25. A fellow is selling multiple cars in the for sale forum. Cars that have been in storage 50 odd years. Only thing he says call for a fair price. If you can not post a fair price it must be expensive.
    2 points
  26. Say WHAT , Bloo ? Naw , man ! I said this was an "ANTIQUE" Subaru. A REAL 4WD Sub'. '89 GL. 5 speed. A high/low transfer case. FWD/4WD. Believe me , these are some of the best cars ever engineered. It is the very best over the pass vehicle I have ever had. You know how Snoqualmie Pass can be. Total Parkin' lot. But not for the Sub' and me. Low range , using the chain up shoulder , up and down over the plowed berms. Almost like Chuck Berry's "Airmobile" : "I let out my wings , I blowed my horn ; said : bye , bye New Jersey , I become airborn !" You know : "You can't catch me ............... " , etc. Anyway , first pic is early October , first Fall colors , you KNOW the first come and go snow has already happened up top. But by early Nov. , you see the very first dusting of snow on the first rise , over Reecer Canyon. Week or two later , the pasture gets it. Subaru up at lion Rock was 2days before the 3rd pic was taken. At that point the pasture was in snow. Still legal to drive wheeled vehicles beyond my high gate , you can still play by the rules. When the pasture gets snow , at the top , you will have the first layer of the 6 or 7 month snowpack in a good year. I know you know what a good year is like ! Let me post this , and then I'll give us a peek at the view. Stand by , - Carl
    2 points
  27. Willis, funny you should mention that because it's been lingering in the back of my mind ever since I found it. I know Holley and the Holley clones have had annular discharge for a while now, but it's interesting to see it in an AFB based carb. I kinda view the Edelbrock as a simple man's entry to carburetion where it's not too complicated to get right, and they end up being more economic than the street Holley's with the dual accelerator pumps. The thing I really like about the AVS2 is that the annular discharge rings are made specifically to be metered by that carb, rather than the swapping of boosters in a Holley, which means the carb is designed to handle the change in vacuum signal at the throttle plates. I figure now that the popular fuel injection kits are dropping in price, the carburetor market needs to adapt and the integrated annular booster design is getting closer to the fuel atomization capabilities of throttle body injection kits. If they could angle the venturi in such a way that it creates a vortex at the lip to pull the fuel to the edges of the bore rather than shower down on top of the plate, they would be in the money. Now they just need to refine the accelerator pump to spray a mist into the bore rather than a solid stream and it would help tremendously on part acceleration (no lean bog from the fuel hitting the plates in a glob and then forced to atomize). Speaking of modern carbs, I've refined my modern carb ignition switch. I like your idea of using the transmission kick down solenoid as a switch, but there's no gate to stop it from kicking on every time the pedal is depressed - it needs a gate, which is what the ball bearing is as it's sucked into a little cubby with intake vacuum during operation. John really got me thinking about how to stick it behind the carb like OEM, and I started thinking of clutch linkages to reverse the lever arm. That's when it hit me. If I put a rod cut like the OEM throttle shaft on the end of a lever that is 1:1 the lever on the carb, at the rear mounted off the back studs, then it would work perfectly. Finals are next week, with the first being at 8 AM on Tuesday. Looking hopeful, as I've finished two already this past week and the one at 8 AM is a 4.0 GPA filler class that I took to keep my financial aid. So they real fun doesn't start until Wednesday. I'm armed with energy drinks and junk food to survive this last week and then I get to see my Buick again.
    2 points
  28. I also feel that a swap meet is a different situation, altogether. Sometimes a seller cannot price EVERY LITTLE PART he is selling. I get that.
    2 points
  29. Yes Derek , most likely , via Bellevue you were on I-90. Although there are no signs directing you to Lion Rock , you would have seen the plateau to the North around Ellensburg. E'burg is the same distance to the South of me , as Lion Rock is to the North of me. About a dozen miles. If you were taking U.S. 2 through Wenatchee , the plateau is to the South. It separates Kittitas Valley from Wenatchee Valley. It goes up to maybe 7300' or so at the Mission Ridge ski area. That is Bloo's yard ! Hmmm............ , that gives me an idea : let's go for a ride ! In an "antique" Subaru ! - Carl
    2 points
  30. GARY, I doubt that the fuel is running out of the carb or that it evaporated in the cold weather. If it continues to give you a problem there is a brass plug on the side of the float bowel that is the correct level for the fuel in the float chamber. You could remove that easily and see if any trickles out. If it does not then I would remove the top 8 screws and lift off the top of the carb and see whats going on. If it is empty there is something wrong. I believe the 38 carb on mine is different from yours. Also I noticed that in 38 the gas filler is under a fender cover so you can't see the filler and it eliminated the rubber grommet in 1938. 1937 and 38 look similar at first but there are differences. The 37 and 38 were my favorite body styles. Your car looks more beautiful each week.
    2 points
  31. Sunday December 10, 2017: Fuel filler, gaskets, first time out of the garage on her own power... I got a couple of small projects done today. The big event was starting her up and driving out of the garage so I could organize and clean up. Nice feeling her get up and go! Here's the lineup when installing the fuel filler neck. I got a new fender grommet. It cannot be used. After getting everything lined up, there was no way that grommet would sit properly. Flashback to January 2017. Filler tube installed, the mud shield is powder coated "mirror black" Comparison photograph of the new repro on the left, the original grommet on the right. Notice the original has a "crease" in the middle. That "crease" or "dent" is absolutely necessary to get everything to fit. The fender has a pronounced shape corresponding to that bend. Here it is, nice and snug. By the way, is this the correct cap? I'm getting a little heat for the way it looks. A few posts ago i cleaned, primed and painted the trunk mechanism. Today I traced and cut the gaskets to ready it for installation. The punch makes the best holes and the job looks real professional. Another project ready to go in. Then, I couldn't take the mess in the garage anymore, so I decided to pull her out and make some room to clean. Started her up, I sat on a plastic bin and got her some fresh air! First time out on her own power in 11 months. Carefully watching so I didn't hit the door frame. The paint really "pops" when it's outdoors. 11 months ago. Today. Coming along! And here's the mess I had to fix. I wanted to get organized before the hood returns, the interior..... 3 hours later. I'm pooped! Couple things on the first start up. 1. The automatic choke appears to be operating. When the car sat outside for three hours in the 32 degree air, the choke was closed off solid when I went out to start it. I let it idle 15 minutes and when I went to drive it in, the choke was fully open. 2. I notice the charge indicator is a little erratic. If I juice it, and keep it at a high idle, it stays pretty stable on the charge side. When she settles down to a normal idle, the needle kinda "clicks" up, then to middle, the pops up to charge. Not a fluid motion, "clicky". 3. Oil pressure is holding nicely at 40 pounds on start up, 15 minutes later at 30 - 35. 4. I let it idle 15 minutes, and no overheating. (Although it is freezing out). Radiator was warmer up at the top tank, and noticeably less warm at the bottom. 5. It was difficult to start after sitting outside the three hours. I had to use starting fluid to get it to finally kick over. Is it possible the fuel is running out of the carburetor when it sits? This seems to be an issue for me. All - in - all it was really nice to get behind the wheel again. Although I need to bolt that crate down. I step on the clutch, the crate tips back! Worth every second! Have a great evening! Gary
    2 points
  32. Kyle, If you true-up the whole car when you rebuild the body, it will probably be better than it was when new. Keep in mind that these cars were hand made by factory workers who worked in different shifts, took time off, and changed jobs within the same factory from time to time. So non-uniformity can be expected in the final fit & finish. A great example is to look at original pin striping on the same year and model cars. Different workers painted them differently and have caused many arguments at judged car shows in recent years. I am still impressed with how much you have accomplished in recent weeks.. Keep up the good work and we will be touring together soon...
    2 points
  33. Out moving vehicles around to work on them yesterday. Also first day the snow stayed on the ground.
    2 points
  34. I'm betting that she drove it just fine with no power steering or power brakes. She could probably back up without the need for a backup camera as well.
    2 points
  35. sligermachine,don`t really understand what you meen with the nickled radiator,but when doing a tripple chome plating they start with copper to fill upp to get a good surface,then they use nickel,an after that the chrome over the nickel. If your nickled radiator are not "shiny"as the chromed radiator anything got wrong! the only differens are the "color"nickel plated things are a little bit"yellow" but as shiny as chrome.This`s my nickel plated radiator made a 1/2 year ago. Leif in Sweden.
    2 points
  36. Countrytravler, I don't think this is the same car. I know three of the four owners and it has always been out east, starting in Virginia then in Ohio with the last three owners. Not that it really matters, because it just sold in near record time. Perhaps I should have asked more for it as Jake suggests. A heck of a lot of car for the money, that's for sure!
    1 point
  37. A quick assessment tells me it is a 1914 B37. Full size 5 passenger touring car. Most of the price comments are in the ball park. The redish color on the body tells me that this was probably a 1950s fix up and run for a while project. I offered $15,000 for a running /driving one 5 years ago. The sellers wanted $17,500 even though the radiator was junk and needed a total new one made. This one looks to at least have some upholstery left. The one I offered on did not have enough leather left to make a pair of gloves. It also had several bad wheels that needed remade. 1914 B37 comparison to B55 Touring cars On the other end of the spectrum there was a beautiful example sold by Marty Roth that was offered to me. But way out of my price range.
    1 point
  38. I like it. It's more comprehensive and up-to-date...Thanks, Ronnie
    1 point
  39. Agreed, and I like your new "Self-Portrait" and "White Charger", but is ONE HORSEPPOWER a bit on the LEE side, Marvin? (with apologies for Monday morning humor?)
    1 point
  40. Our car can sit for a week or ten days and start instantly with the modern gas in the winter or spring or fall. If it is driven in 100 degree heat during the summer and then parked for an hour the gas will evaporate a little but still start pretty quickly without the use of the electric pump. If it is parked after driving in 100 degree heat and then parked in the garage during the summer for a week or two I need to use the electric pump to prime it. We drive it regularly and park it and it starts almost instantly when we get back in it. It did not do this until one day I put a fuel regulator on the carb. I had lots of carb problems until I put the regulator on it, since then it's a different car, I really don't know how the regulator made such a difference, but in my case it did.
    1 point
  41. Werner, All may not be lost for the old starter hole cover. You can take a piece of pipe that fits inside the cover and put the pipe in a vice. Perhaps with a hammer you will be able to straighten the aluminum tubing on the starter cover. It will take some time, but this kind of work to me is theraputic. You can't make it any worse, only better. The split near the opening wont show. If the inside end were sanded smooth and greased, it may have never gotten stuck. Hugh
    1 point
  42. Merry Christmas from East TN
    1 point
  43. Wow cool, looks awesome Rodney, well implemented! I'm glad my inputs could help you somehow!
    1 point
  44. You may find some answers here: http://www.sharrettsplating.com/coatings/electroless-vs-traditional-nickel-plating https://advancedplatingtech.com/electroless-nickel/electroless-nickel-phosphorus-content/ https://www.pfonline.com/articles/electrolytic-and-electroless-nickel
    1 point
  45. Well, after a five hour wait for a Locksmith I'm back running again. Seems Ford had a problem with the Focus ignition switches up till 2008 somewhat like I was having. The tumblers would get stuck or out of alignment not allowing the key to turn. He sprayed a little bit of WD40 in the switch, sat in the seat and centered the steering wheel. There is a little bit of play even when locked. He then put the key in and with a screw driver tapped the key lightly while trying to turn the key with the other hand. Suddenly it turned and he started the truck. He shut if off and on several times and it only offered to stick the second time. Turns out he lives almost behind me and.... I went to High School with his older brother! Said not to worry about the service call as he was headed home anyway but gave him something anyway. Who knows when I might need his services again!? Phew!
    1 point
  46. The best source of is Dave Tacheny. He specializes in 1936-1941 Buick parts. He is old school: no email. The best way to contact him is to call him between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427 3460 http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/
    1 point
  47. While watching the TV tonight I hear the sound of an in coming email and... It was from Mr. Hughes showing me a progress report on my transmission. I had told him to take his time as I was not in any hurry (plus needed to gather some US funds). The main case and tailshaft housings after cleaning. The tailshaft housing reassembled. The main case with the new support bushing installed. The output shaft, reverse brake drum, reverse band, rear oil pump and parking lock wheel installed in the main case. The tailshaft housing installed on the main case. The clutch assembly, low band and input shaft installed. Jim says he is now working on the stator support and front pump assembly. If I get nothing else for Xmas this year I'm happy and thankful knowing this transmission is in GOOD hands! Looks like a good start in the NEW YEAR...
    1 point
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