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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    My feeling is if I don't see a price, I won't call or email the seller. I am NOT on a fishing expedition. I am NOT bidding on Ebay. State a price or do not post an ad.
  2. 4 points
    No price = Over priced. See it on the forums as well with parts for sale. "I have XYZ part for sale but PM me for the price" I'll pass.
  3. 4 points
    Same here: no price and I have no interest.
  4. 3 points
    Long before Amazon and others were in the home delivery business, Watkins products brought the goods to your door in a Model T truck as seen in this old photo. Kids seem thrilled to have their photo taken next to the truck! Terry
  5. 2 points
    In my semi-retirement I do odd jobs at a local general automotive repair shop (Bauerle Automotive in Delaware, OH). He is known for his expertise with Deloreans as well as working on anything people bring in including many vintage vehicles. I thought you'd get a kick out of this photo showing just 3 of the Deloreans parked around the place awaiting their turn.
  6. 2 points
    A fellow is selling multiple cars in the for sale forum. Cars that have been in storage 50 odd years. Only thing he says call for a fair price. If you can not post a fair price it must be expensive.
  7. 2 points
    I think that's 320773.
  8. 2 points
    Say WHAT , Bloo ? Naw , man ! I said this was an "ANTIQUE" Subaru. A REAL 4WD Sub'. '89 GL. 5 speed. A high/low transfer case. FWD/4WD. Believe me , these are some of the best cars ever engineered. It is the very best over the pass vehicle I have ever had. You know how Snoqualmie Pass can be. Total Parkin' lot. But not for the Sub' and me. Low range , using the chain up shoulder , up and down over the plowed berms. Almost like Chuck Berry's "Airmobile" : "I let out my wings , I blowed my horn ; said : bye , bye New Jersey , I become airborn !" You know : "You can't catch me ............... " , etc. Anyway , first pic is early October , first Fall colors , you KNOW the first come and go snow has already happened up top. But by early Nov. , you see the very first dusting of snow on the first rise , over Reecer Canyon. Week or two later , the pasture gets it. Subaru up at lion Rock was 2days before the 3rd pic was taken. At that point the pasture was in snow. Still legal to drive wheeled vehicles beyond my high gate , you can still play by the rules. When the pasture gets snow , at the top , you will have the first layer of the 6 or 7 month snowpack in a good year. I know you know what a good year is like ! Let me post this , and then I'll give us a peek at the view. Stand by , - Carl
  9. 2 points
    Willis, funny you should mention that because it's been lingering in the back of my mind ever since I found it. I know Holley and the Holley clones have had annular discharge for a while now, but it's interesting to see it in an AFB based carb. I kinda view the Edelbrock as a simple man's entry to carburetion where it's not too complicated to get right, and they end up being more economic than the street Holley's with the dual accelerator pumps. The thing I really like about the AVS2 is that the annular discharge rings are made specifically to be metered by that carb, rather than the swapping of boosters in a Holley, which means the carb is designed to handle the change in vacuum signal at the throttle plates. I figure now that the popular fuel injection kits are dropping in price, the carburetor market needs to adapt and the integrated annular booster design is getting closer to the fuel atomization capabilities of throttle body injection kits. If they could angle the venturi in such a way that it creates a vortex at the lip to pull the fuel to the edges of the bore rather than shower down on top of the plate, they would be in the money. Now they just need to refine the accelerator pump to spray a mist into the bore rather than a solid stream and it would help tremendously on part acceleration (no lean bog from the fuel hitting the plates in a glob and then forced to atomize). Speaking of modern carbs, I've refined my modern carb ignition switch. I like your idea of using the transmission kick down solenoid as a switch, but there's no gate to stop it from kicking on every time the pedal is depressed - it needs a gate, which is what the ball bearing is as it's sucked into a little cubby with intake vacuum during operation. John really got me thinking about how to stick it behind the carb like OEM, and I started thinking of clutch linkages to reverse the lever arm. That's when it hit me. If I put a rod cut like the OEM throttle shaft on the end of a lever that is 1:1 the lever on the carb, at the rear mounted off the back studs, then it would work perfectly. Finals are next week, with the first being at 8 AM on Tuesday. Looking hopeful, as I've finished two already this past week and the one at 8 AM is a 4.0 GPA filler class that I took to keep my financial aid. So they real fun doesn't start until Wednesday. I'm armed with energy drinks and junk food to survive this last week and then I get to see my Buick again.
  10. 2 points
    I also feel that a swap meet is a different situation, altogether. Sometimes a seller cannot price EVERY LITTLE PART he is selling. I get that.
  11. 2 points
    Yes Derek , most likely , via Bellevue you were on I-90. Although there are no signs directing you to Lion Rock , you would have seen the plateau to the North around Ellensburg. E'burg is the same distance to the South of me , as Lion Rock is to the North of me. About a dozen miles. If you were taking U.S. 2 through Wenatchee , the plateau is to the South. It separates Kittitas Valley from Wenatchee Valley. It goes up to maybe 7300' or so at the Mission Ridge ski area. That is Bloo's yard ! Hmmm............ , that gives me an idea : let's go for a ride ! In an "antique" Subaru ! - Carl
  12. 2 points
    GARY, I doubt that the fuel is running out of the carb or that it evaporated in the cold weather. If it continues to give you a problem there is a brass plug on the side of the float bowel that is the correct level for the fuel in the float chamber. You could remove that easily and see if any trickles out. If it does not then I would remove the top 8 screws and lift off the top of the carb and see whats going on. If it is empty there is something wrong. I believe the 38 carb on mine is different from yours. Also I noticed that in 38 the gas filler is under a fender cover so you can't see the filler and it eliminated the rubber grommet in 1938. 1937 and 38 look similar at first but there are differences. The 37 and 38 were my favorite body styles. Your car looks more beautiful each week.
  13. 2 points
    I do not want to start an argument about this issue, but, I do have copies of Buick Motor Company records that show the Model E-49 as a 1918 model. Back at that time it was a common practice for states to issue titles in the year that the vehicle was registered in. In other words if a vehicle was registered in the calendar year of 1917 even though it was technically a factory designated 1918 model the state titled it as a 1917 model. On the other side of that issue if a 1918 model was held over and sold in the 1919 calendar year, a lot of states titled it as a 1919 model. That happened a lot. I will refer to the Buick - The Complete History book by Dunham and Gustin that shows the Model E-49 as a 1918 model. It doesn't make any difference when the vehicle was introduced to the public for sale or when it was sold. An E-49 is a factory-designated 1918 Model Buick. ALL E-model Buicks are factory-designated 1918's. Give ma a day or two and I will post photos of Buick Motor Company documentation for you guys. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  14. 2 points
    Sunday December 10, 2017: Fuel filler, gaskets, first time out of the garage on her own power... I got a couple of small projects done today. The big event was starting her up and driving out of the garage so I could organize and clean up. Nice feeling her get up and go! Here's the lineup when installing the fuel filler neck. I got a new fender grommet. It cannot be used. After getting everything lined up, there was no way that grommet would sit properly. Flashback to January 2017. Filler tube installed, the mud shield is powder coated "mirror black" Comparison photograph of the new repro on the left, the original grommet on the right. Notice the original has a "crease" in the middle. That "crease" or "dent" is absolutely necessary to get everything to fit. The fender has a pronounced shape corresponding to that bend. Here it is, nice and snug. By the way, is this the correct cap? I'm getting a little heat for the way it looks. A few posts ago i cleaned, primed and painted the trunk mechanism. Today I traced and cut the gaskets to ready it for installation. The punch makes the best holes and the job looks real professional. Another project ready to go in. Then, I couldn't take the mess in the garage anymore, so I decided to pull her out and make some room to clean. Started her up, I sat on a plastic bin and got her some fresh air! First time out on her own power in 11 months. Carefully watching so I didn't hit the door frame. The paint really "pops" when it's outdoors. 11 months ago. Today. Coming along! And here's the mess I had to fix. I wanted to get organized before the hood returns, the interior..... 3 hours later. I'm pooped! Couple things on the first start up. 1. The automatic choke appears to be operating. When the car sat outside for three hours in the 32 degree air, the choke was closed off solid when I went out to start it. I let it idle 15 minutes and when I went to drive it in, the choke was fully open. 2. I notice the charge indicator is a little erratic. If I juice it, and keep it at a high idle, it stays pretty stable on the charge side. When she settles down to a normal idle, the needle kinda "clicks" up, then to middle, the pops up to charge. Not a fluid motion, "clicky". 3. Oil pressure is holding nicely at 40 pounds on start up, 15 minutes later at 30 - 35. 4. I let it idle 15 minutes, and no overheating. (Although it is freezing out). Radiator was warmer up at the top tank, and noticeably less warm at the bottom. 5. It was difficult to start after sitting outside the three hours. I had to use starting fluid to get it to finally kick over. Is it possible the fuel is running out of the carburetor when it sits? This seems to be an issue for me. All - in - all it was really nice to get behind the wheel again. Although I need to bolt that crate down. I step on the clutch, the crate tips back! Worth every second! Have a great evening! Gary
  15. 2 points
    I could fit in a Henley even if I had to sit on my head!
  16. 2 points
    Kyle, If you true-up the whole car when you rebuild the body, it will probably be better than it was when new. Keep in mind that these cars were hand made by factory workers who worked in different shifts, took time off, and changed jobs within the same factory from time to time. So non-uniformity can be expected in the final fit & finish. A great example is to look at original pin striping on the same year and model cars. Different workers painted them differently and have caused many arguments at judged car shows in recent years. I am still impressed with how much you have accomplished in recent weeks.. Keep up the good work and we will be touring together soon...
  17. 2 points
    Out moving vehicles around to work on them yesterday. Also first day the snow stayed on the ground.
  18. 2 points
    I'm betting that she drove it just fine with no power steering or power brakes. She could probably back up without the need for a backup camera as well.
  19. 2 points
    sligermachine,don`t really understand what you meen with the nickled radiator,but when doing a tripple chome plating they start with copper to fill upp to get a good surface,then they use nickel,an after that the chrome over the nickel. If your nickled radiator are not "shiny"as the chromed radiator anything got wrong! the only differens are the "color"nickel plated things are a little bit"yellow" but as shiny as chrome.This`s my nickel plated radiator made a 1/2 year ago. Leif in Sweden.
  20. 2 points
  21. 1 point
    I know you all have photos of your cars. Done or not. Show them off. Here is my '65.
  22. 1 point
    I believe that it's a trunk handle; however, I don't know what it's from. Cheers, Grog
  23. 1 point
    Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to all Yoopers, Trolls, Hosers, & Rednecks who frequent these forums... We will be having a very Merry Christmas here in The Great Northwest with lots of the local Scandahoovians.
  24. 1 point
    LED bulbs,large original tail lamps,and a snarly ol'fart license plate all help !
  25. 1 point
    Parts car items #16 & 17 - front license plate bracket & wheel rims. Got the plate off the bracket, and soaked the plate bracket & bolts in Evap O Rust for a couple of days. Also straightened the bracket some, though it has an arch to it to match the center of the bumper. Painted & installed today. My wife got me a novelty plate for the front based on the "UFO" idea that my son came up with. Wheel rims - got the 5 that were on/in the parts car to the tire shop yesterday to have the tires removed, and then took the rims over to the powder coater. Took longer to settle on a color than I had waited at the tire shop, but working with the powder coat guy I think it will be a good choice... Anyway, a very close representation of the colors I'm going for is on the Dec. 2017 cover of Turning Wheels (Studebaker Driver's Club magazine). Also ordered the wide-white bias-look radials. I didn't think I would go for bias-look radials (I had done bias-plies on the '51 Buick), but the tire shop talked me into it. In driving the bias-plies on the Buick, they lighten up the steering a lot (to what was intended back when it was designed), but they are very squishy when cornering.