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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/05/2017 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    The majestic '38 Roadmaster is now on the car hauler, heading for Brian. Here are a few photos, documenting the loading of the car this morning here near Tacoma.
  2. 3 points
    For what it is worth, divine intervention? Your '55 will look better keeping the shoes it has. And they are WAY easier to clean. My .02. Ben
  3. 3 points
    Winter is effectively begun in this part of the world. The 1929 will be coming home yet too so started tidying the garage. Didn't get too far though.
  4. 3 points
    This is such a happy little car. Suzanne wants to call it Hawkeye, but the children, who think of the Marvel character rather than the MASH character are fighting it. That said, it's the end of a season. I'm happy I drove it out to the country on Thursday as that was our last dry day. We now have snow and if the prediction is correct it with temperatures it won't be gone until spring.
  5. 2 points
    Here's a little fix that I did on the '41 this week. Currently it is laid up awaiting the return of it's gas tank, which is at a shop having a liner put in it. I had installed new shock links when I put it together 5 or 6 years ago, but was still using the old shocks till recently. I got rebuilt shocks early this year, but had not put them in as I was planning to put the taller ratio gears (3.4's instead of the stock 3.9's) in, and much of that has to apart anyway to do that. To save my aching elbow, I had the work professionally done, much to my satisfaction I must say. So I had them put the rebuilt shock in at the time. Needless to say, the ride was considerably improved, till one day I heard a banging at the back. Sliding under in a parking lot I could see that the pin that connects the link to the shock had simply pulled out of the link, but it was still connected to the shock itself. Those readers that have worked on these units will understand, but for those that haven't, here's an explanation. The shock bolts onto the inside of the brake backing plate, and a link connects to an arm which comes out of the inside back of the shock itself, but doesn't attach to the frame directly, like modern ones do, but rely on a slim vertical bar, with two shortish tapered pins. The top one fits into a fitting on the inside of the frame rail, and the lower one into the shock arm. The pins in the link are set into rubber, much like a motor mount is, and it was this which failed, and let it pull out. Also, there seemed to be a bit of misalignment of the pin to the arm. I still had the old ones, and compared the two, but they were identical. I drilled and tapped into the inner side, and put a bolt in where it goes through the link, but it worked its' way out after a short while again. So I decided to create a new modified one on my lathe. When doing the careful measurements I found part of the answer, as the taper on the shock arm was a bit larger, which when tightened up, pulled it even further out of alignment. I think that since the old shock wasn't doing too much, it didn't put very much stress on this unit, but the new ones, did. So, when making it up, I increased the gap about 3/32nds, and made the taper a bit larger as well, so that when installed it would be more in line. The biggest change was to make a stud which goes out the inside end of the link, so that I can put a nut and then a lock nut on it. There is lots of space on the inner side, the there is no issues with the stud interfering with another component. I have posted a few pictures of the manufacturing progression. Keith
  6. 2 points
    Hi yes its not in USA , i am lokated in Nothern Sweden , the garage is 8*12 meter , and i have floor heating , and its isolated so i have 20'Celsius also on the winter , , the winter is so damn loooong here ... But when you have a garage and plenty of Buicks so it's ok ... Bt
  7. 1 point
    Would the owner of this car be interested in some free 63 parts for pick up in the Richmond, VA area? They are from a Skylark, but include wheels, radiator, and other things that would probably work for a Special too. PM me and I will get you the contact info from the email I received.
  8. 1 point
    Thanks Neil, it was a long road to where it is now, and at times it didn't seem as though it ever would get done. I think that these pictures make it look better than it actually was, as a lot of work that the floor and structure required doesn't show. As I go through stuff I will find more of the "in progress" pictures I took, and will post them. Kind of a backwards progression on the thread, but much of the work on the car was done before I joined the forum here, and I was shooting film, so not so easy to post as well. Keith
  9. 1 point
    That's good info for folks to know, Doug. Over the years I have talked to a number of people that have bought parts for the wrong series, as they look so much the same, only they don't fit! Keith
  10. 1 point
    I thought 6 large was a bit on the high side until I saw that it has a tilt able dash. That's a game changer. The Kenworth hood really draws the entire build into a smooth, blended, almost factory look, yet with a provocative "in your face" attitude.
  11. 1 point
    If you check the existing system you will probably find that the actual spark voltage is 4 or 5 KV. If you have a lean cylinder it might get above 5,000V but I haven't seen that often. Any old coil car do 10,000 to 15,000 V. Ohms law has a lot of room on old cars. A common conversion you can look into is the distributorless Jaguar V12 conversion. Backyard jobs use two triggered 6 cylinder GM units. Jaguars draw cooling air through the distributor and it can cause moisture to rust the internal components. Rather than maintain the distributor some remove it. Just a work around for maintenance, no real world gains. If you did it all yourself the minimum is going to be at least $350. Go out and buy five sets of Echlin points and condenser. Invest the remaining $150 in a girlfriend. In the meantime read this book : http://www.jag-lovers.org/xj-s/book/XJS_help.pdf It has tons of fascinating stuff in it, even if you don't own the marque. I have read most of it at least once, lots twice or more. Maybe I need a girlfriend, too! Bernie
  12. 1 point
    You learn to pull the handle but before you hit the road, make sure your parking brakes are adjusted and working as well as your service brakes.
  13. 1 point
    What a party - pooper - not giving us a clue as to what in blue thunder the vehicle is.....is part of the fun !
  14. 1 point
    Here's my take from encountering this problem years ago. Odds are the car will not start because: 1) The gasoline has washed the oil off the cylinder walls, and you aren't getting enough compression. In this case you'd need to squirt some oil into the cylinders on top of the pistons and spin the engine so the oil gets onto the cylinder walls and seals the rings. 2) Or the gasoline itself is old and has degraded/separated into its component parts. I've had this problem with small equipment that sat up too long. Requires draining all the old gas out and replacing with new. 3) Or you still have the flooding problem, and the mixture is too rich to burn. If so, find and fix the problem causing the flooding, and take the spark plugs out and let the engine set for a while so the excess gas can evaporate out of the combustion chamber. You may still need to oil the cylinder walls. 4) Or you have a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm that is pouring gas into the engine pan. I've seen instances of the entire crankcase filled with gasoline on old Chrysler slant 6's. They would not start despite getting fuel and spark. But sometimes they'd blow the entire pan off. Again, the problem was the gasoline diluted the oil and there was no compression. 5) Or this is an older car with a vacuum tank with a stuck float, due to a loose bushing above the float. Gasoline then gets sucked directly into the intake manifold via the connection between the manifold and the vacuum tank, completely bypassing the carburetor. 6) Or your carburetor is gummed up and the float is stuck down, or is full of gas and has sunk. This may be the most likely cause, rather than a carburetor mis-adjustment. You didn't mention the car or the type of fuel system it has. More information would help.
  15. 1 point
    He's just trying to keep it out of the puddle of transmission fluid.
  16. 1 point
    I'm guessing that trucking company was owned by some very irritable women.
  17. 1 point
    Hi Al, Not in NC yet. Transporter to pick up later this week (hopefully) and then a week to 1.5 weeks to get back to NC. Current plans are for it to be a tour/enjoy car, if that means it ends up at a show to two so be it. Eventually I would like to do a 400 pt level restoration but I have 2 cars I want to restore first and I may have so much fun driving it (I'm hoping it is far more reliable than my 80C) and enjoying not having to worry about it getting scratched or road chipped or whatever that by the time I get those other two done I may change my mind. That said I'm too much of a perfectionist not to start tinkering and improving things here and there.
  18. 1 point
    I thought you charged them from coal plants. With copper wires made with ore from strip mines in Chile, excavated transported with diesel powered equipment. Actually, I like them and have looked at them, but my Wife's bad back is going to force us into an Escalade. Bernie
  19. 1 point
    Probably the last run for the Electra until Spring. As if the car knew, it decided to strand me for a few minutes on the side of a busy highway with not much of a shoulder! Was able to get it restarted after 10min or so and made it home without any further problems. Not sure why it stalled, but nothing like losing power doing 60 mph on a busy, windy mountain road!
  20. 1 point
    Tyler, It is your car to do what you wish, but a properly tuned 1931 60 series original drive train will keep up with modern traffic and stop just fine with correctly adjusted mechanical brakes on all four wheels. I suggest you restore it and drive it awhile before deciding to change the drive train. Just my $0.02
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    I don't believe that's true. I have a friend with a totally unrestored early 20's car, he put it in the regular class to be judged, and received an award, second Junior I believe. I know the argument that all HPOF cars need to be in one place for judging, but I'd rather see all cars placed in their class, restored or not....makes for very interesting comparisons between original and restored cars....
  23. 1 point
    I don’t think this would help @bobg1951Chevy. He has a ‘69 and this is an EM. Am I wrong BOB?
  24. 1 point
    Dirty Buick...but it was out yesterday for the first time in a month since moving into the new place.
  25. 1 point
    Knocked a couple small dents out of the passenger side of the cowl and then fitted the cowl onto the new wood. I was lucky and able to use the hinge pillars and the cowl wood with just a small repair to the lower portion of the driver's side pillar. All the holes drilled in the new new sills lined up without issue on the cowl attachment points. The lower cowl is lining up perfectly with the rocker panels so all appears correct to proceed. The new floor board and original, to the car, toe board, are fitting together perfectly. The cabin seems pretty spacious looking at it and hopefully will be comfortable for my 6' 1" frame. The rumble seat gutter was missing one of the corner triangle sheet metal pieces that has the lid bumper in it. I made up the new corner piece out of thick sheet metal, spot welded it in place, turned a matching nutsert on my lathe, and installed it in the corner piece. . I used my big vice to expand the skirt of the nutsert using a center from my lathe to start the skirt. Once it was expanded, the good old 3lb hammer finished flattening it out. Matches the other side and no one will ever know it's not original to car. Fit the lower metal under the rumble lid and will need to tweak it just slightly to lessen the gap in some area and widen them in others. Starting to look like a car again.