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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/30/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Springfield Motors Buick dealership, Springfield, Oregon My wife and I were returning home from a road trip to some of the great national parks in the California Sierra Nevada range. Last Saturday morning, we crossed Willamette Pass Highway over the Oregon Cascades, and planned for lunch in the Eugene area. I spotted the sign to the Historic Downtown District of neighboring Springfield, and remembered that there was an old Buick dealership in the area. Following lunch at the The Plank, we drove a couple of blocks to the dealership, constructed in 1949 for Clarence Scherer. The dealership design incorporated features from the 1944 Buick Building Layout Guide, and the structure remains much the same 68 years later. While not as grand as some of the mid-century dealerships built in larger cities, the building has been meticulously maintained, and was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 2011. Springfield Motors is one of only about thirty remaining stand-alone Buick dealerships in the USA, and carries a large inventory of new Buicks. This was surprising, in view of the West Coast dominance by Asian and German automotive brands. The salesman with whom we talked, Victor, has been an employee since 1984, and conveys enthusiasm for Buick and the dealership's history. The dealership remains in the Scherer family, operated by Clarence's son. A glimpse into the service area revealed a superb, original 1966 Skylark GS convertible, traded in by one of Clarence's customers in 1967, and preserved ever since. I noticed right away the rarely seen 1966 GM headrest option! My accompanying photos show some of the enlarged photos from the showroom walls, including an image of the 1949 Roadmaster convertible that graced the showroom floor when the dealership was opened. I was particularly interested in the image of a 1949 Buick sedanette and a 1959 Buick Electra, photographed when the dealership was ten years old. A glass display case is filled with Buick brochures and promotional model cars from the 1950's and early 1960's. Clarence's father, Otto, opened a Buick dealership in Palmyra, Wisconsin in 1910, and some of the showroom images are historic photos of the early Buick dealership. Victor eagerly pointed out the large photos of Louis Chevrolet and the early Buick Racing Team. All of this was tremendously exciting, and I offered an early suggestion regarding a celebration of the dealership's 70th anniversary in 2019. What a great opportunity to gather vintage Buicks from around the Pacific Northwest to recognize this dealership's long-term dedication to Buick. I can only hope that the folks at General Motors who have been entrusted with the Buick brand can be as passionate about Buick as the folks at Springfield Motors.
  2. 6 points
    Gorgeous day up here in the great "green" North, so I took the Electra out for a duplicate of the trip I made with the Wagon a few weeks ago. Up the Sea to Sky Highway that leads from Vancouver to Whistler. Halfway up to Whistler is the small town of Squamish where there Howe Sound Brewery, a great spot for local craft beer and excellent food. The trip went well and as you can see from the photos, it was a beautiful fall day. The Electra performed well, although the day was not without some drama. On the way home, the car sputtered and died while doing 60 mph... I coasted to the side of the highway and partially blocked the inside lane. As I was stalled out on the hill, there was no pushing it off the road, but luckily a buddy in his convertible Mini Cooper was able to stop behind me and there was good sight lines along the road so folks easily see me in time to move over. I could not restart the car, and every time I tried, the car would run rough for a few seconds and die again. Given the spot I was in, I called a tow truck and went back to fill in my buddy on what was going on. It really felt like I was out of gas (but had over a half tank). After about 10min of sitting there however, I was able to get the car started again and off I went gingerly. Cancelled the tow truck and made it home without further incident. Weird. I'll put the fuel filter to see if it has clogged up, but could high speeds down the curvy road contributed to the fuel starvation?
  3. 4 points
    Your pictures are awesome Doug! When I see pictures of the western parts of this land I often wonder" What did early settlers think when these areas were first observed?" As to your power loss, I am thinking water in the gas. However, this requires an assumption that the vehicle may have been left to sit a few weeks with less than a full tank of gas. BTW, This one deserves to be in the Favorite pictures of my Post war Buick!
  4. 4 points
    Nice day down here in central Texas. Put the carb back on the car after a rebuild and went for a ride among the cattle and horse ranches. Ended up at a distillary that my wife like and bought her some Prickly Pear Moonshine. Car ran better then it ever has in the 2 or 3 years I have owned it.
  5. 4 points
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    Thanks very much John, I always appreciate your insight. The car does sit a bit, so it's possible there is some water in the fuel, however it was very close to full and I use only non-ethanol fuel. The road is quite curvy with a lot of grade change, and I may have been pushing it a bit in sections to pass slower vehicles. At the point the car stalled, there would have been 1/2 tank so I'm leaning to some fuel sloshing around in the tank and sending a small piece of debris through. In this part of the world, the mountains basically come right out of the ocean, so it definitely would have been intimidating for settlers. Just building roads to these areas is relatively recent. Where I drove to used to only be accessible by ferry until the late 50s or so, and there are still portions of the mainland that can only be accessed by ferry. That chunk of granite posing behind my car is called "the Stawamus Chief" a popular hiking and climbing area being less than an hour from Vancouver. Here's a picture of the Chief from a different perspective, and you can really understand why it's named "the Chief".
  8. 3 points
    All convertibles flex to some degree in fact every car will flex on a lift. I have personally used a lift on my 53 Buick Convertible and 53 Chevrolet convertible, they flex, and gaps change, doors will still open and close, never had one just open. I just talked with an owner of a 55 Chevrolet convertible, he had a transmission removed for repair the shop used a lift, gaps changed but returned to normal on the ground. Follow Al’s advice and confirm the frame has the stiffeners, then check your body mounts are they tight, then check for any rust in the rockers. The floor and rockers are a big part of the structure any loose body mounts or rusted areas will contribute to flex. The convertible rocker on the inside panel just below the door latch area has an additional stiffer that is about 18” long it is sandwiched between the inner and outer rocker panel look closely in this area. Let us know what you find; I would bet the frame is correct and the body is loose on the frame. I am very close to completing a complete floor replacement from the A pillars to the trunk and replacing rockers on my Buick. It will surprise everyone how much the frame flex is reduced when everything is tight and working as one big structure. It has taught me a few lessons for sure. Steve
  9. 3 points
    Sunday October 29, 2017: Some odds and ends Installed the hand accelerator pull knob. It was hopelessly rusted together, so I had to cut it just after the metal sleeve inside, then restored all the parts that show. I don't think I'm going to use it as originally intended. I'm thinking I may use it as a separate light switch to turn the Trippe lights on. But it looks nice back into its spot anyway! Windshield divider installed. I s l o w l y tightened the screws to allow the rubber to seat fully without bending anything. Installation of the kick panels: Very carefully marked all the holes while in the car and the edge of this panel aligned with the door opening nice and straight. I started by peeling off the windlace. Then set this piece just where you want it to line up. Mark the holes in the car with a punch. Pull this piece back out and I used a leather punch to punch nice clean holes for mounting. This way you don't have ragged edges. Put this aside and time to finalize the fit of the windlace. Using headliner adhesive, I gave a little "tug" downward to be sure it was seating nice and tight. Then, using the same punch I made a hole down the line. I didn't want the screws to "bunch up" the fabric when installing the panel. Bottom of the windlace. First I cut it about an inch long. Then, making a much more precise mark, ......... I peeled back the outer fabric casing to expose the inner rubber. Here you can see the final cut brings the rubber nice and flush to the floor of the car. Then I rolled the fabric over the cut and the excess lays nice and flat so I can glue it down, set it under the sill plate.. So it stays nice and straight and won't pull off. Finish marking and punching all the holes, giving the lace a little pull towards the front so when the panel drops in it all tightens up nice. I think I'm going to find more decorative screws with the nice decorative washers, but these will keep it happy for now. I know the upper end should cover the dash screw, but the dash was bent away from the car up there and when I tried to install it over that screw, the panel began to crease. Plus, the dash keeps the panel in nice and tight, so I did it this way. Have a great night! Gary Installing the rear roll-up windows tomorrow!
  10. 3 points
    Welcome! Always great to have another enthusiast! While posting descriptions and pictures here will certainly get you some good feedback, I would suggest an alternative. Joe P mentioned the lack of competent mechanics today for sixties cars. How do you find one? Many areas have weekly/monthly/semi-annual whatever cruise-ins, often at the local arf-and-barf (a.k.a. fast food "restaurant"), but also a local park, car dealer, etc. Attend one or more of these cruise-ins. Look at some of the sixties cars you see. Talk to the owners. Most car enthusiasts will be glad to show you their vehicle. This may give you insight as to what make and model you may prefer. Also, ask for guidance on local mechanics these folks have used. No reason why you should not be able to drive a sixties vehicle in good shape year-round. We certainly did so in the sixties!!! If you reside in an area where there is snow (or here in Missouri where the Department of Transportation is helping the Department of Energy dispose of coal residue a.k.a. cinders each winter) you should probably check the undercarriage for undercoating, and if now currently done, consider doing this. Everyone has their own favorite make, but you should pick your own. From a practical standpoint, there are probably more availability of parts for Fords and Chevies, but don't let this be your only selection criteria. Pick a vehicle YOU like. Good luck, have fun, and again........WELCOME! Jon.
  11. 3 points
    Just to put into perspective for the newcomers to this story.... here's the after:
  12. 2 points
    Our local Portland area chapter toured this dealership on Sandy Boulevard in Portland several years ago. I am told it was to be replicated by the Smithsonian Museum before it was sold & remodeled. The yellow sedan is now my son's car, and the roadster belonged to Jack & Barbara Gerstkemper at the time.
  13. 2 points
    Putt around or parades? I'm not a Navy man, but me thinks I saw a shot across me bow? Well we do, do some putting and parades but we also have a bunch of fun on the open road too in our stock Buicks and drive. Nothing against Modified Buicks or Modifieds in general, heck I own one with a bow tie on the front . . . but I digress. Well here are three stock Buicks in Baraboo, Wisconsin on the PWD After Tour this past summer. Each had a bunch of fun at the BCA National Meet along with a bunch of Buick cars and trucks and wonderful Buick Folks I don't have pictures of. The 1937 is by my Google Maps calculation 825 miles away from home, did another 300 or so in Wisconsin so that's 825 + 825 +~300 = 1950 miles The 1924 is from Rhinelander and did at least 300 miles of touring. The 1923 circled Lake Michigan and did 1495 miles total. Don't underestimate the road worthiness (and fun) of a well tuned stock Buick or the really nice people who drive them. Fix up that '31 and come have some fun with us, stock or modified.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    I'd call it the Mr. Earl Retirement fund collection!
  16. 2 points
    Here's the original "in home" charger or maybe it's something from Frankenstein's lab. It will be restored as well but not made operational for safety's sake.
  17. 2 points
    I made this valve cage from scrap 3/4" square tubing and a long bolt. Remove the castellated cage retainer nut and spring assy. Liberally lube the cage vale with 50/50 ATF & Acetone for a day or more. Remove the top nut & washer from the puller. Insert the valve stem into the bottom hole, place the heavy top washer over the stem & replace the keeper. Turn the lower nut to pull the cage assembly. Some valves may require just putting a strain on the puller for a day or more with more lube and/or heat.
  18. 2 points
    A different kind of tri-five with no bow tie.
  19. 2 points
    Later... took a closer look at the Mercury Marauder pics and it is rustier than I thought. The Plymouth would be the better buy on condition. The Mercury looks like it needs a lot of work.
  20. 2 points
    Gary: If you are using a remote/hidden starter switch that that would be fine. But if you are planning on using the original vacuum accelerator starter system the hand throttle is important. Many a time if you stall on a hill and the parking brake will not hold and you start drifting back..... Foot on the brake, pull out the throttle which will engage the starter. Back in business. A real life saver... Ask me how I know! Larry
  21. 2 points
    Could probably work as a learning exercise. Maybe you could become the next Rube Goldberg!
  22. 2 points
    I love to see 322’s in hot rods From a friend on the west coast and he has this Century minus the above engine for sale.
  23. 2 points
    Just brought in this 1918 Rauch and Lang electric for full restoration.
  24. 2 points
    Wondergrape, That is good. AACA has the Ohio Region with several chapters that tour with their cars locally for day trips and three times a year tour with all the chapters. We had a wonderful Ohio Region tour two weeks ago in the Dover, Ohio area. Besides wonderful back roads in Amish country, we toured a tear drop trailer manufacturer and private collection with 30 plus cars including a Duesenburg, Packards, Caddys Kaiser Darrins, T Birds etc. The guy had two large buildings for the cars set around his nine hole golf course and his house. Most of the cars on the tour were 50- 70s cars. This weekend I was on our last local Southern Ohio Chapter tour on back roads of KY to General Butler State Park for lunch. We again had mostly 60's- 80's cars including a poster here Junk yard Jeff in 65 Ford 4 door sedan. By the way, a tour is driving around usually in the country between stops for food, private collections, historical sites and other interesting stuff. Beats sitting around at car show in my opinion. Tom in Cincinnati
  25. 2 points
    Check with Universal Vintage tire company, Hershey PA. They have universal black walls for about $300 and they have Lester white walls on sale for $260. Great company to work with. Bob Engle
  26. 2 points
    As to where to buy, I always buy privately. Preferably an original unmodified car from a good neighborhood.
  27. 2 points
    My choice would be a well maintained original car not restored. There are plenty of decent old sixties cars around. Suggest you start with a lower priced model that is simple, with a small V8 or six cylinder engine and the minimum of power accessories. I like Plymouths and Dodges, in fact all Chrysler products. But there is a lot to be said for Chevrolet and Ford, especially when it comes to getting parts and repairs. Really though, I would not turn up my nose at a good Pontiac, Olds, Buick or Mercury at the right price. There are some good buys out there especially in the less popular models like 4 door sedans. If you want a Mustang, GTO or Road Runner expect to pay through the nose. Watch the ads and see what you can find. I like to peruse the ads, and find a great deal every 3 weeks or so. There are so many I have to purposely avoid looking at the ads or I would buy another one half a dozen times a year.
  28. 2 points
    Probably the last run for the Electra until Spring. As if the car knew, it decided to strand me for a few minutes on the side of a busy highway with not much of a shoulder! Was able to get it restarted after 10min or so and made it home without any further problems. Not sure why it stalled, but nothing like losing power doing 60 mph on a busy, windy mountain road!
  29. 2 points
    Welcome, Mr. Wondergrape! Any good dedicated hobbyist is happy to help a newcomer. I don't claim to be a mechanic, and I'm well involved in the hobby; so don't feel that mechanical prowess is a requirement to owning an old car. If our furnaces break, or our television stops working, we're likely to take it to an expert. Everyone has different knowledge. Consider buying a good price guide. One well-respected guide is the price guide put out by Old Cars Weekly. Here is their annual book: https://www.oldcarsbookstore.com/2018-collector-car-price-guide Four-door sedans are the most economical body styles to buy, because many collectors favor convertibles first, then 2-door hardtops. So almost any 4-door sedan from the 1960's is likely to be a nice survivor--a older person's car now in collectors' hands--than one that had tens of thousands of dollars spent restoring it. As long as you buy from a private owner, you should be able to find very good sedans in the $5000 to $10,000 range. Problems with parts, or problems with ethanol-laced gasoline, won't stop you. A fairly common model should have no problem with parts availability. Putting an ethanol treatment in the gas with each tankful should obviate the damage from ethanol. You definitely don't want to drive an old car in the winter, because cars from the 1970's and earlier will rust badly: Your pride and joy, and your monetary investment, will be badly damaged, even ruined. So consider keeping your old car as an occasional driver, one you can enjoy and preserve for decades. If your car is kept for hobby purposes, with occasional fun jaunts for other purposes, you can get antique-car insurance from good companies such as Hagerty, J. C. Taylor, Grundy, etc., and you may find the cost is only $75 a year! You'll find this hobby to be a lot of fun!
  30. 2 points
    I certainly have no issues with using a 60s vintage car as a daily driver (I'm doing that myself) but understand the issues so you do this with your eyes open. If you are not doing the work yourself, you will have to find a VERY reputable mechanic who understands these cars. Depending on your location, these can be few and far between. While these cars are not complex, most "mechanics" today are only "parts changers". They plug in the scan tool and replace the part that the software says to replace. Sometimes this fixes the problem, sometimes it doesn't. None of them could diagnose their way out of a paper bag, and most have no clue about how the systems on cars actually work or how failures manifest themselves. Based on the questions I read on other forums, virtually no "mechanics" today know how to rebuild or tune a carb, how to replace points, or what a mechanical fuel pump is. Since 1960s cars are half a century old, don't expect to run into your local parts store and get a replacement part when something breaks. At best, they will need to order it, which means the car will be down for a few days. At worst, replacement parts are not available and you need to either scour the internet to find a good used one or adapt something else. An example of this are the brake drums for the 1965-1970 Olds full size cars. They don't exist. What this ultimately means is that even if the older car is your daily driver, you need to have a backup vehicle for those times that it's down for maintenance. Most insurance companies won't write collision policies for cars this old. They don't have actuarial data on repair costs any more and so can't price that coverage. It's easier to just say no. And whether you have coverage or not, unless the car you select is extremely popular, replacement body panels are not available for crash repair. In my case, I've accumulated parts cars to harvest spares. Living on a farm makes storing them easier. Today's ethanol-laced gasoline wreaks havoc on old car fuel systems. Expect to have to replace rubber parts with modern materials if that hasn't been done already. The ethanol also causes problems with cold start (especially if the car has not been driven in several days). The fact that ethanol leans the fuel mixture also means that the carb may need to be re-jetted for best performance. Again, these points are not intended to discourage you, only to help you make an informed decision.
  31. 2 points
    Even if I was quite lately, work is continuing. It's not making sense to show each filler application or sanding!. The main body (rear fenders, roof, doors and trunk lid) are at 95% satisfying. I still have some improvements to do, especially at the cross panel between trunk lid and back window. We had a wonderful October month; therefore, I could do most of the surfacer job outside. Today, we said goodbye to the summertime and hello to the wintertime, the weather is getting cooler and humid. I ordered the paint for the leather; it’s water based and I have to spray it with my airbrush because it seems that water based colors cannot be sold in a rat can. The blue paint for the leather is rather darker than the original medium blue. As the outside paint is also different, I choose a blue which is in harmony with the outside color. With the white bolsters, I will give a good contrast. On the first picture, 3 leather parts at the right are ready to install, one with some chrome trim. The other parts are ready to be painted; the lower door trim panels will be done next. As you can see, I’m using quite a few leather colors; I just hope that I will have enough. The thickness is between 0.1 and 0.2 mm (0.004 to 0.008”); thicker leather cannot be used. The second picture is my leather’s stock.
  32. 2 points
    Dave, great stance without abandoning the stock theme. Thank You for the info regarding suspension, front end alignment and handling. The 63 I have would look great 2” lower. The reason why I won’t lower my car is I have knee and back problems that make it a challenge to get in and out. Of course, I could go the expense and have it bagged. I won’t do that because the expense is something I don’t want to pay. Looks r e a l good tome because you have it all. Great Riviera style with a mod that does not fall out of the stock theme. My Red Riviera on a nice autumn day is attached.
  33. 2 points
    Success strikes again ! Got the carb put back on the car this morning and the car started right away. I found it helps you if put the throttle return spring on. But it ran and after doing some minor tuning we went for a drive. Car drives like it has never driven before. Good response, not bogs, hesitation or backfiring. Idle needs some work and I have to reset the choke, but for the most part I am happy. It drives like my Riviera did. I should have done this a long time ago instead of chasing imaginary ignition gremlins. So now I have new points,. wires, cap and rotor along with coil PLUS a rebuilt carb. Cant ask for more. It is time to drive the car. I can't say enough about the Carb Kings kits. Had everything I needed to make this work. I am very happy.
  34. 2 points
    Took the truck out for a short drive today to put in the workshop for the winter work. When I say short I mean short, a couple of miles.. It was 37degF/ 3deg C today.
  35. 1 point
    A fully optioned 1955 Buick Century on Ebay. Has power seat, brakes and steering with AC. I would be all over this car if I was nearby. Resides in Arizona. Click this link... 1955-Buick-Century-Riviera
  36. 1 point
    What a fantastic idea for a 70th Anniversary celebration... you can count me in for that!
  37. 1 point
    Matt...."tens of thousands"?? I agree with not calling this car a gold mine without knowing more facts----but are you aware that GM produced less than 9,000 TOTAL Chevelle V8 model convertibles in 1969? (Check out stats on Chevellestuff online). And as near as we know, MOST of those were not SS 396 models. So right off the bat, this car has the POTENTIAL to be very valuable. The OP says it has 23,000 original miles, and "all paperwork." If that's original paint, upholstery, etc. Wow. More so than regular passenger cars, muscle cars were driven hard, and commonly abused...if not by their first owners, then by subsequent owners. Totally original unmolested muscle cars are quite rare as a percentage of the total extant fleet. As such, muscle car collectors value "survivor" cars much more than nicely restored units. There are many times more restored cars out there than "survivors." Silver paint over red interior was not super common in 1969, but i have seen several SS 396 models with this combination, which seems to be much appreciated by collectors today. Anyway, we're ALL anxious for details, photos, etc, before advising of value. But the statistics provided by the OP, if accurate, suggest a very expensive car, in my experience.
  38. 1 point
    I will try to clear things up for everyone. I am Chris Dittes, VP of Ames Rubber Mfg. We purchased the remaining assets of Karr Rubber after it's shut down. We heard that the equipment was available from the property management company for the location. Because the building needed to be cleared out, they had contacted various rubber companies to see if there was interest. We were interested in a particular piece of machinery for our Tennessee manufacturing location, so when the auction for the entire lot of assets occurred, we were the winning bidder. We shipped some of the equipment to Tennessee, and we moved the remaining tooling, extrusion products, and casting equipment to our Los Angeles location. Some machinery that we did not need was scrapped. In the same time period, we were contacted by Jose Luis Arteaga to produce some extrusion. In dealing with him, we learned that he was Mr. Karr's key production employee. He and his wife had worked there a very long time, and he was the main guy that made the tooling and products for Mr. Karr. Jose is also the person that knows the most about the products Karr Rubber sold. It seems that he and Mr. Karr had agreed that he could take some of the tooling he needed to try and continue making parts for his customers. Jose has the capability to make casting molds out of silicone, and to cast urethane and resin parts from these molds, and to create assemblies using extrusion he purchases. This is the method they had used to make most of the parts they sold. Since Karr has closed, we have extruded quite a few jobs for Jose Luis, so he could make window parts for his customers. (ex-Karr customers I assume) So far, it seems Jose Luis is a good guy, and very knowledgeable of specialty automotive reproduction parts. I have seen his work. He knows his stuff. There is nothing questionable in his attempt to continue servicing Karr's customer base There was quite a bit of tooling left there. Many extrusion dies, and lots of cast silicone molds. We have all this remaining tooling currently at our Los Angeles location, and are trying to sort through it all. Unfortunately, there was no identification on any of the molds, and no catalog system that we could find to associate extrusion dies or molds to any particular customer. Without knowing what each mold is for, it is likely that we will be discarding the bulk of them. (We have limited storage space available, or we would keep them.) It is a shame that better records weren't kept by Mr. Karr. As far as Ames Rubber Mfg. goes, we have many years of rubber manufacturing experience. We specialize in rubber extrusion, molding, die cutting, lathe cutting, and splicing. Please see our website http://www.amesrubberonline.com We are able to create tooling, and extrude profiles to custom specifications. We do make automotive reproduction parts, but mostly in bulk, not for small restoration projects. We service many automotive clubs, and specialty restoration businesses. We would be happy to discuss any project, and even look for existing tooling while we have it here. We are working closely with Jose Luis on some work he has, and we would be happy to discuss any other projects with him if it helps facilitate someones restoration. As far as Craig Karr goes, we never had the pleasure of meeting him. I'm sure he was an interesting gentleman. Please feel free to contact us at your convenience for any rubber related needs. Chris Dittes Ames Rubber Manufacturing 4516 Brazil St. Los Angeles, CA 90039 818-240-9313 sales@amesindustrial.com http://www.amesrubberonline.com
  39. 1 point
    A very nice 1968 Dodge Monaco (2 dr hardtop) just sold at B.J.auction for $ 6,700. There are many good buys this time of year, in the spring expect to pay more.
  40. 1 point
    Only problem with 67-72 style versus 60-64 style say is , well the style. Alot less chrome, alot more plastic. I too prefer the early 60's over the late. Driving a 60's car year round in OH will probably not be an easy task as the winters are very salty and will consume one fairly quick. Lots of extra nooks and crannies for the salt to collect in. Even with a modern vehicle it's a battle and that's with fluid film, grease, You name it.
  41. 1 point
    By the way, never assess a car's value by what others are ASKING. Actual selling prices, such as those documented on Ebay and corroborated by a good price guide, are what you want to use. In recent years, a lot of antique-car dealers have cropped up, and their asking prices are almost always far higher than a car's value: by 50% or 100%! I much prefer a private seller, especially one who is honest, knows the car, and has really cared for the car over many years.
  42. 1 point
    One important fact that I can contribute to this thread is that on many reproduction parts, THERE IS MORE THAN ONE MANUFACTURER, and MORE THAN ONE LEVEL OF QUALITY AVAILABLE. The problem is, we collectors and restorers are conditioned that, for all the body and trim parts for these cars and trucks (when they were fairly new transportation vehicles), there were only TWO sources available...the parts dept at your local car dealer, and/or used parts from salvage yards. No one thought of buying an off-brand fender, door, or bumper for a 3 year-old car; reproduction body or trim parts didn't exist. So everyone used to check on the price of new parts replacement parts at the dealership, and then scour junk yards and want ads for used parts. Then the shopper would settle on the best price he/she could find. So today, when we need reproduction parts, what do we do? We get on the phone and call around to several sources, and then order the item we need from whichever source offers the lowest overall cost (for the part plus shipping). We do that without even knowing that some of those parts we got quotes for are "economy versions," while other parts are show-car worthy. In my career position, this drives me CRAZY! For example, did you know that there are FIVE DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS of those "cowl hoods" for 1967 to 1969 Camaros? (Regular Production Option ZL-2, "Special Ducted Hood" actually debuted in about January of 1969, but it seems like MOST 67-69 Camaros are fitted with them now). Anyway, some of those reproduction hoods are really, really good...made from heavy gauge steel on all-steel tooling, and are at LEAST as good of quality as the OEM parts were. However, there are also some cowl hoods out there of questionable quality. And if you call around to several suppliers seeking the lowest overall cost...guess which one you'll likely get? So when someone asks me if reproduction parts for certain vehicles are really good, or really bad. I answer them, "YES. Exactly." Moreover, not all restorers even WANT the same level of quality. There are many, many car owners out there who just want to patch a rough old car together and blow it out at the next swap meet. Those folks want the cheapest part they can find. Other folks may be trying to build a platinum quality car, intent on winning their Junior, Senior, and Preservation awards at the next few Hershey events. It's ok when the first guy gets cheapo parts in the mail. But that guy with his sights set on platinum is going to be disappointed if his new quarter panel doesn't "quite" fit right. For over 30 years, I've been doing the advertising and marketing for LOTS of the companies which manufacture or retail reproduction parts for collector vehicles. I design and produce their ads, catalogs, websites, swap meet exhibits, SEMA show exhibits, and provide them with advice on how to sell their products. I've spent literally thousands of hours behind the scenes of manufacturers and retailers in this industry from coast to coast. Some of the retailers try to compete on price alone, and are forced to stock and sell the lowest priced parts they can find, while others try to find the best parts available, and consequently cannot offer the lowest price. Some of the manufacturers try to make the highest quality part available, and then try to convince the retailers to stock THEIR parts instead of the "cheapo's." But many retailers are afraid of losing the sale if they cannot offer the lowest price. Why is that...? Because restorers and collectors really do call around and shop primarily by lowest overall price. This explains why one restorer will talk about having bought a reproduction bumper for his Mustang (for example) and grumble about the piss-poor quality of that D#$(&n repro crap, while another guy in the same conversation group will say that he too bought repro bumpers for the same year Mustang and loved the quality. BOTH men are telling the truth! My advice? Educate yourself before you buy. Find out if there is more than one version of those new bumpers available. And keep in mind that some retailers don't want you to know that, because they want to buy from whichever manufacturer will cut them a deal THIS WEEK. So they might have sold BRAND X last week, but are stocking BRAND Y today. Educate yourself, and buy the parts which will suit you the best. Oftentimes, you have a choice in the matter, if you take the time to find out about it.
  43. 1 point
    Thought you might appreciate this. Look at the size of my oil pump's pickup screen. It's a fully pressurized system that was ahead of it's time.
  44. 1 point
    There is a "Buick Modified" section on this site so you are not alone in choosing this route. The purist's cars are fine for parades and putting around but if you want to DRIVE it a lot then definitely up date it. I drove my 37 Special for a couple of years with a 4.44 rear end, vacuum wipers, drum brakes, etc, you get the picture and it was a great parade car but sucked as a 70mph driver. Now with a 1952 263 straight eight, 2004R overdrive automatic, 4.11 rear, electric wipers, p/s, p/b, a/c, tube shocks, larger sway bars, it is a left lane cruiser that you can relax in rather than worry about some idiot coming up behind you doing 80 while your doing 50. Been coast to coast and border to border and usually clock around 8,000 miles a year. The only way a non expert can tell it is not a factory 37 Special without diving under it is the sealed beam head lights and radial tires. Looks stock inside and out but is all modern underneath. Didn't want a "chopped and dropped" abortion but did want a COMFORTABLE driver. A heads up: a 30's car will always have wind noise at 70, it's unavoidable.
  45. 1 point
    I`m curious if the "correct" `67 mirror is the clip on? It would seem that if the holes are punched in the visor already that the above style mirror is correct for `67? I could check accessory catalogs if anyone else is curious, Tom
  46. 1 point
    Hi All Hot Spring day here in Australia. As promised I have attached a few photos of our "Chromefest", held 20 minutes drive from my home. Lots of stalls and entertainment and of course lots of cars. All American cars are welcome with a 1978 limit on local models, over 400 cars, far too many to capture! Here is a taste Cheers Paul
  47. 1 point
    A comment was made on another thread about not underestimate the excavating work. No truer words can be spoken. I way under estimated the time to really get my site finished up. Not even Grass and flowers but just the amount of work to flatten a spot on a hill, then the drainage for the building and proper grading of the whole area. Seems all I do is get everything levelled off or graded properly, then dig it all up for something else. I put stone in for the drainage of the eves, fortunately only on one side, when a friend told me i really should use a coarser stone without the dust. So i had to dig that whole side back out, 20 ton of stone and fill it with a different type. Fortunately I just used the reclaimed stone in the driveway. I had to cut grade down in front of the garage 16 inches. That's alot of dirt to move with my small equipment. So much I now have a huge mountain of it and I filled in a large area behind my existing garage. I finally think i am seeing the light of day, which is good as my building crew hasn't showed up so I'm going to have to start framing it myself. I do have some more stone to put down but I think i have enough for the water to drain and not create such a mud pit like after the last deluge we had a few days ago. It's suppose to be 3-5 inches of rain in the next day and a half. I'll see if i have everything properly pitched. Of course the rocks have presented a bit of a challenge a well. All those you see and I buried alot of the others I found. My wife likes stone walls, so I have been stock piling them for future projects.
  48. 1 point
    Sad. I though by now our National Meet Committee could have gotten ahead of situations like this...
  49. 1 point
    The older I get the more I notice there is a special way to say "original" in car talk. One has to extend their neck slightly so their head is a little forward of their shoulders. The they drop the "o" to say "ridgenole". That is done with a slight lowering of the head and a bob that rises upward at the end that turns into a positive nod. All this happens with a slight glazing of the eyes. This became apparent to me when I noticed people weren't saying "original" the way I originally heard it said or the way I say it. However , it is very entertaining to be able to predict it. Think I'm kidding? I bet you see it now. In 1980 I picked up a wood wheel and four wire wheel covers for $30 at a swap meet. I threw out the old black wheel. Too plain looking. Bernie
  50. 1 point
    The D22 was the 119.5" wheelbase Dodge built in the US and Canada. The DeLuxe series was not built nor sold in Canada. Both US and Canadian plants built cars for domestic and export markets. 31,681 DeLuxe models were built in the US of which 13,343 were 4 door sedans. Custom production came to 36,841 in total (US and Canada) with 22,055 4 door sedans in total. (Do not have a break down between US and Canada). The D23 was the Plymouth-based 117" wheelbase Dodge, also built in the US and Canada. The US-built cars were for export only, including Hawaii, at the Plymouth plant on Lynch Road. The Canadian plant built for Canada and export. . 2880S was the 2,880th 4 door sedan, with the "S" for sedan. Each body style had a letter (or more). Very good possibility bodies were not taken in sequence for production on the assembly line. Bodies were assembled and painted and then put aside to be used when needed. Or someone may have replaced the body. That does happen when someone finds a car with a solid chassis and powertrain but a body that missing parts and is full of holes. If you want you can get the build record from Chrysler Historical which can confirm the body, colour and any options installed. Dodge built their own bodies at Dodge Main (Hamtramck) as did Chrysler Canada at their Windsor plant. Chrysler of Canada had a plate on the firewall having the model number, body number, paint code and trim code. Plymouth bodies for the Detroit plant were built by Briggs Body at their Mack Avenue plant. Briggs bodies had a body plate number that had a body code unique for each series, the body plant (if not the Mack Ave plant) and the sequential body number.