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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/30/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Springfield Motors Buick dealership, Springfield, Oregon My wife and I were returning home from a road trip to some of the great national parks in the California Sierra Nevada range. Last Saturday morning, we crossed Willamette Pass Highway over the Oregon Cascades, and planned for lunch in the Eugene area. I spotted the sign to the Historic Downtown District of neighboring Springfield, and remembered that there was an old Buick dealership in the area. Following lunch at the The Plank, we drove a couple of blocks to the dealership, constructed in 1949 for Clarence Scherer. The dealership design incorporated features from the 1944 Buick Building Layout Guide, and the structure remains much the same 68 years later. While not as grand as some of the mid-century dealerships built in larger cities, the building has been meticulously maintained, and was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 2011. Springfield Motors is one of only about thirty remaining stand-alone Buick dealerships in the USA, and carries a large inventory of new Buicks. This was surprising, in view of the West Coast dominance by Asian and German automotive brands. The salesman with whom we talked, Victor, has been an employee since 1984, and conveys enthusiasm for Buick and the dealership's history. The dealership remains in the Scherer family, operated by Clarence's son. A glimpse into the service area revealed a superb, original 1966 Skylark GS convertible, traded in by one of Clarence's customers in 1967, and preserved ever since. I noticed right away the rarely seen 1966 GM headrest option! My accompanying photos show some of the enlarged photos from the showroom walls, including an image of the 1949 Roadmaster convertible that graced the showroom floor when the dealership was opened. I was particularly interested in the image of a 1949 Buick sedanette and a 1959 Buick Electra, photographed when the dealership was ten years old. A glass display case is filled with Buick brochures and promotional model cars from the 1950's and early 1960's. Clarence's father, Otto, opened a Buick dealership in Palmyra, Wisconsin in 1910, and some of the showroom images are historic photos of the early Buick dealership. Victor eagerly pointed out the large photos of Louis Chevrolet and the early Buick Racing Team. All of this was tremendously exciting, and I offered an early suggestion regarding a celebration of the dealership's 70th anniversary in 2019. What a great opportunity to gather vintage Buicks from around the Pacific Northwest to recognize this dealership's long-term dedication to Buick. I can only hope that the folks at General Motors who have been entrusted with the Buick brand can be as passionate about Buick as the folks at Springfield Motors.
  2. 6 points
    Gorgeous day up here in the great "green" North, so I took the Electra out for a duplicate of the trip I made with the Wagon a few weeks ago. Up the Sea to Sky Highway that leads from Vancouver to Whistler. Halfway up to Whistler is the small town of Squamish where there Howe Sound Brewery, a great spot for local craft beer and excellent food. The trip went well and as you can see from the photos, it was a beautiful fall day. The Electra performed well, although the day was not without some drama. On the way home, the car sputtered and died while doing 60 mph... I coasted to the side of the highway and partially blocked the inside lane. As I was stalled out on the hill, there was no pushing it off the road, but luckily a buddy in his convertible Mini Cooper was able to stop behind me and there was good sight lines along the road so folks easily see me in time to move over. I could not restart the car, and every time I tried, the car would run rough for a few seconds and die again. Given the spot I was in, I called a tow truck and went back to fill in my buddy on what was going on. It really felt like I was out of gas (but had over a half tank). After about 10min of sitting there however, I was able to get the car started again and off I went gingerly. Cancelled the tow truck and made it home without further incident. Weird. I'll put the fuel filter to see if it has clogged up, but could high speeds down the curvy road contributed to the fuel starvation?
  3. 3 points
    All convertibles flex to some degree in fact every car will flex on a lift. I have personally used a lift on my 53 Buick Convertible and 53 Chevrolet convertible, they flex, and gaps change, doors will still open and close, never had one just open. I just talked with an owner of a 55 Chevrolet convertible, he had a transmission removed for repair the shop used a lift, gaps changed but returned to normal on the ground. Follow Al’s advice and confirm the frame has the stiffeners, then check your body mounts are they tight, then check for any rust in the rockers. The floor and rockers are a big part of the structure any loose body mounts or rusted areas will contribute to flex. The convertible rocker on the inside panel just below the door latch area has an additional stiffer that is about 18” long it is sandwiched between the inner and outer rocker panel look closely in this area. Let us know what you find; I would bet the frame is correct and the body is loose on the frame. I am very close to completing a complete floor replacement from the A pillars to the trunk and replacing rockers on my Buick. It will surprise everyone how much the frame flex is reduced when everything is tight and working as one big structure. It has taught me a few lessons for sure. Steve
  4. 2 points
    Our local Portland area chapter toured this dealership on Sandy Boulevard in Portland several years ago. I am told it was to be replicated by the Smithsonian Museum before it was sold & remodeled. The yellow sedan is now my son's car, and the roadster belonged to Jack & Barbara Gerstkemper at the time.
  5. 2 points
    Putt around or parades? I'm not a Navy man, but me thinks I saw a shot across me bow? Well we do, do some putting and parades but we also have a bunch of fun on the open road too in our stock Buicks and drive. Nothing against Modified Buicks or Modifieds in general, heck I own one with a bow tie on the front . . . but I digress. Well here are three stock Buicks in Baraboo, Wisconsin on the PWD After Tour this past summer. Each had a bunch of fun at the BCA National Meet along with a bunch of Buick cars and trucks and wonderful Buick Folks I don't have pictures of. The 1937 is by my Google Maps calculation 825 miles away from home, did another 300 or so in Wisconsin so that's 825 + 825 +~300 = 1950 miles The 1924 is from Rhinelander and did at least 300 miles of touring. The 1923 circled Lake Michigan and did 1495 miles total. Don't underestimate the road worthiness (and fun) of a well tuned stock Buick or the really nice people who drive them. Fix up that '31 and come have some fun with us, stock or modified.
  6. 2 points
    A different kind of tri-five with no bow tie.
  7. 2 points
    I love to see 322’s in hot rods From a friend on the west coast and he has this Century minus the above engine for sale.
  8. 2 points
    Just brought in this 1918 Rauch and Lang electric for full restoration.
  9. 2 points
    Probably the last run for the Electra until Spring. As if the car knew, it decided to strand me for a few minutes on the side of a busy highway with not much of a shoulder! Was able to get it restarted after 10min or so and made it home without any further problems. Not sure why it stalled, but nothing like losing power doing 60 mph on a busy, windy mountain road!
  10. 2 points
    Took the truck out for a short drive today to put in the workshop for the winter work. When I say short I mean short, a couple of miles.. It was 37degF/ 3deg C today.
  11. 1 point
    What's wrong with calling a place that sells used cars a "classic car" site ? What do you expect they'd call em.... "old cars"....."used cars"...."collector cars"....? Dont be so fussy.....it has wheels...dosnt it ? Isnt that enough to make it a "classic" car ?
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    48woodie, Most of the people who are selling parts at Hershey are not running a business. The majority of the swap meet spaces are run by individuals, not businesses. If you think you can require people who are paying for a space to sell excess parts to be required to stay in their space for every minute of every day of the swap meet, I don't think you understand human nature very well. The majority of those individuals who are selling are also buying. If they are stuck in their own space 100% of the time, they can't buy anything from any of the other swap meet spaces. Most of these individuals store their items for sale in their cars, trucks, trailers, or motorhomes. Without somewhere to store parts, it is difficult to sell parts.Regarding meeting times, If the swap meet area is closed, it would be impossible for those clubs to have their meetings in their spaces at those times. Your suggestions in your last post would guarantee the end of the Hershey Swap Meet. I would urge you to give some thought to your suggestions and after coming up with reasonable ideas for improvement, you should pass them along to the Hershey Region.
  14. 1 point
    What a fantastic idea for a 70th Anniversary celebration... you can count me in for that!
  15. 1 point
    I was so happy to read this, what a wonderful post. The photographs are great as well. Thank you so much for posting this to share with us. I love old industrial buildings and to read that this is still in the family of the original owners is just tremendous.
  16. 1 point
    What a treat that must have been for you and your wife Brian!!! I know that photo of the '59 had to bring a big smile to your face. Thanks for sharing!!!
  17. 1 point
    Nahhh, just keep it simple. Stay with all 4 door '54's and one of each series. I can help wit dat.
  18. 1 point
    Would make a nice stall mate to my 54 Century... Maybe I should go for the trilogy.... 54,55,56 HA HA HA HA HA HA
  19. 1 point
    It has been my experience that strong originality will put a car on par with a fully restored cars, but in most cases it doesn't add a significant premium. That is, an original car with evidence of use and some deterioration can stand on equal footing with a high-quality restored car (although not on par with a true #1 quality car). On a relatively common car like this, even a Chevelle big block convertible (of which they still built tens of thousands), there's no way simply being original will add 50% to its value. Chevelles live in a fairly fixed range of values and there are enough of them changing hands frequently enough that the established transaction prices are pretty well documented. This isn't a Yenko showing up out of nowhere, it's a standard SS convertible with a slushbox. Low mileage is nice, one owner is nice, but there are other factors that will have a much larger determinant on value--the engine, for example. I can guarantee it's not an L78, so forget that. It might be an L34, and that would be a nice bonus but again, not enough to make it worth 50% more. Options are a factor, too. A/C? Power windows? Console? Gauges? I'm always reluctant to put a price on anyone's car in a situation such as this simply because it's easy to be very wrong. Telling him it's a near-six-figure car does him no favors--if it's a bench seat, automatic, column-shift, L35 with no options and no papers, it's not particularly valuable at all, originality notwithstanding. It all comes down to what it actually is and what comes with it as proof of the story it tells--without that information, we're all just whistling in the dark. A car like this will be subjected to an extraordinary amount of scrutiny. If it's an upgraded numbers-matching engine (L34) and there's documentation like a window sticker or build sheet to back it up, it'll bring strong money. But 50% more? No way. Automatic transmission puts a cap on values and that color combination will need to be documented because I've never seen another silver-on-red one. Not that it couldn't be, but at least give us a shot of the cowl tag and engine, plus any documentation you might have. As others have mentioned, the seller needs to tell us exactly what it is and what paperwork he can produce, and then a much more accurate value can be ascertained. Right now, we know nothing but the year, make, model, and color. Cars like this are all about the details. Buyers are smart, they are looking for proof of the car's credentials and its story--gone are the days when they'd just take your word for it that a car was legit. Without those specific ingredients, it may not only be less valuable, but less marketable as well. All that said, isn't this the forum where everyone regularly complains about people showing up with completely unrealistic expectations of value on their cars? Telling him it's a "gold mine" and that values could be double book doesn't help anyone, especially the seller who may take that advice and end up wondering why his "gold mine" of a car is finding no suitors at double book value...
  20. 1 point
    Only problem with 67-72 style versus 60-64 style say is , well the style. Alot less chrome, alot more plastic. I too prefer the early 60's over the late. Driving a 60's car year round in OH will probably not be an easy task as the winters are very salty and will consume one fairly quick. Lots of extra nooks and crannies for the salt to collect in. Even with a modern vehicle it's a battle and that's with fluid film, grease, You name it.
  21. 1 point
    The monthly magazine Hemmings Motor News and its accompanying website, www.hemmings.com, are the most respected places to buy and sell collector cars. You'll find everything there from $3000 to $300,000 and up. And they vet their advertisers, so anyone found to be dishonest or unreliable is prohibited from advertising again. Mr. Wondergrape, we ask again: WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED? With members' keen and knowledgeable eyes, we might be able to find some interesting possibilities fairly close to you.
  22. 1 point
    Here is a 63 Caddy right near Boston for 4500. Seems too cheap. https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/d/1963-caddy/6349217941.html
  23. 1 point
    By the way, never assess a car's value by what others are ASKING. Actual selling prices, such as those documented on Ebay and corroborated by a good price guide, are what you want to use. In recent years, a lot of antique-car dealers have cropped up, and their asking prices are almost always far higher than a car's value: by 50% or 100%! I much prefer a private seller, especially one who is honest, knows the car, and has really cared for the car over many years.
  24. 1 point
    Welcome! I can attest to the willingness of the members here to be helpful and answer questions. (Much more then any other forum I’ve been on - and I’ve been on a lot). Three years ago, I found myself responsible for many old cars and had no knowledge of them. These members welcomed me and all my questions with open arms. I have seen them do the same for many others. I was was going to make some points but they already covered them. Your money will go further with 4 door sedans, but I’ve also noticed that Corvairs are less expensive then others and parts are readily available. (I personally love them and grew up with them). I have a 57 Fairlane, and love the 60’s models of those as well. They will help you figure out if a particular deal is good. Also, if you pay a fair price, it’s cheaper to buy one in good shape then a bargain that needs a lot of work. It’s usually hard to recover what you put in to a restoration. Definately post cars you are interested in with lots of pics of the outside, interior and undercarriage. You will get lots of advice on what to look for. Once you do a few of these you will be surprised what you learn. Don't be shy, I’ve stopped asking these guys for help everyday and they need something to keep them busy. ? What part of the country are you in? I have obtained help with members in my area and even seen them help people locate a local car of their choosing by doing searches for them. They may know mechanics also. Lots of factors go into prices. You can get a general idea by checking online price guides, but they are not perfect and it takes a while to get a feel for what condition category a car falls into. Posting some listings here will result in advice to help you learn why one car is more than another. It is easier to learn and explain that way. You might, for example, make a post with a link to two similar cars and ask why the price is higher for one. Sometimes a seller asks for too much, but often it’s also the amount of rust, engine type and condition, options, paint and interior condition, etc. Look forward to your posts as I will learn a lot too!
  25. 1 point
    This weekend I made the decision to take the Buick home. Come November 1st, chains are required (if snow) to cross the pass, unless you have M(ud) + S(now) tires. The tires on the car are M+S SUV tires, but with one wheel and given the fact that sheet metal doesn't grow on trees (and not that I'm not confident in my driving skills, more worried about getting hit in the parking lot by someone else), I made the drive. For those of you that don't know, coming East from the West, it's a steep climb to the top and a long slope down the other side... but from the East side to the West, it is a long grade to the top and then the steep fall off on the other side of the pass. I had the heater on full blast with the driver window down going up, trying to keep the old girl from overheating. Granted, this is a virgin engine... I've decided to permanently park the car for now. There is a huge rear main seal now, where I lost 2 quarts to the half way mark home, and my steering wheel has 1/3 rotation of play in it... so bad I half turned the passenger tie rod out so the car would pull to the right so I had a point of reference on the steering wheel. Since it'll be sitting for a while, looks like for fun I'll be pulling the engine back out, and doing a bottom end seal/inspection like I should have done in the first place. Haha. That aside, the car isn't coming back over the pass unless a new steering box is mounted in. I think I talk about this too much, but isn't it nice when you pay "professionals" to fix these things and they're still broken? Oh well... I'm looking into a rack and pinion type setup that I could use to replace the drag link. The only issue is you need new steering knuckles to change the turn radius of the wheel. Otherwise, a Jeep steering box will probably be the best bet since it has the same spline pattern as the pitman arm and looks pretty close to original. This upgrade is prompting me to do other things, but mostly theoretical. Everytime I tell myself I'm going to keep it original, something always rears it's ugly head.. So I figure why not apply my schooling and "modernize" the car in the right way (IE not throwing Speedway junk in there). You might see my newest scheme in the modified boards.
  26. 1 point
    Richard the rails are straight along the length . bob when you can ring me bob
  27. 1 point
    So it's taken just over a year to go from this to this then this recently this and finally this THe framing crew is suppose to be here tomorrow. All this has cost a little under 40,000. That doesn't include a stick of lumber, just the concrete, gravel, excavating that I didn't do, not to mention all the excavating work I did. I think I put 60 hours on my tractor in the last 2 weeks moving dirt and stone around. Probably 30 on the excavator. It's starting to look like something though. We are getting some serious rain right now, so I'll see how my drainage works out for the driveway. I'll be real happy once that wood starts going up. I figured I would do it myself if they don't show up when the rain stops. Again never underestimate the cost or time to do the dirt work. Especially if you live in a rocky mountainous climate. The one saving grace was atleast I didn't have to blast or split any rocks.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    I would suggest a Mopar from that era. Most are well engineered and run forever with good care. A Dodge Dart, Plymouth Valiant or any mid size is often very reliable. and as a plus since their popularity is not that of a Chevy or Ford they are often cheaper to buy. Parts are as was said about the Chevys available to keep them going. As with the others body, trim and other parts like that might be difficult to obtain but often not impossible. Standard advice applies here. Buy the best you can afford. It pays off in the long run
  30. 1 point
    I bought my first Reatta that had averaged less then 6,ooo miles a hyear. Now at 29 years that total average is a bit less then 10,000 miles per year. I bought it to drive and drive it I am...
  31. 1 point
    I have known good pump/motors. If interested email me at; lemke1044@aol.com
  32. 1 point
    mines not my primary transportation.if it dies i will have triple a tow it home where it can sit years if needed.i just found out today that my van may be MUCH cheeper to fix than i was hoping.i might go the route of building a bullet proof auto like the other guy did.id like to be able to tow a camper.
  33. 1 point
    Who was the person on here that had the tag line "If your not going to drive it you should collect clocks" ? I totally agree with this statement. To buy a car of any type just to look at it in a garage is in my mind a crime against this great hobby. That person would be better off just going to a car show or someones collection if all they want to do is look. Just my .02 worth.
  34. 1 point
    The best way for us to help would be to have you post a few of the options with the prices. Photos are a big help and the descriptions as well. You can edit out any contact info if you are concerned someone (maybe not even a member) may jump on a car you are interested in. Each one has it's pluses and minuses. By driving the car regularly do you mean driving it every day year round? Is it going to be a second car to drive on nice days? Do you have a long commute? All important things to take into consideration. Do you have a place to store it if it isn't going to be your only source of transportation? They really deteriorate fast if just left forlorn outside, Especially in some climates. From what I have seen in my own Northeast craigslist searches, even here you should easily be able to get a very nice Sedan for 10G or less. Let us know your general location as well. Maybe one of the members here has a good lead to pass on to you. Good luck in whatever you decide.
  35. 1 point
    White on white. L was cut off on the above link. https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/d/1966-buick-riveara/6337612101.html
  36. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum! To answer your last comment first, Newbies with a genuine interest in old cars are anything but annoying. And there are no bad questions. We all had to start somewhere. I admit I was a bit intimidated when I first ventured onto this forum amid the cognoscenti of the old car world. But the wealth of knowledge and the generosity of many who contribute to this forum is first class and I think unsurpassed anywhere else. Now to your main question, I really can't give you any guidance. BUT I know you will hear shortly from folks who can help. Best of luck with your new love. (I like old Vinyl too)
  37. 1 point
    Nice example of understated elegance !
  38. 1 point
    I took a peek under my 55 and 57 small body converts this AM. I didn't get under them with a micrometer but to the eye the X member was approx 2 .5 times thicker than the side rails. I checked under my 55 Olds 2 door hard top ( the Olds uses essentially the same frame ) and the X member was the same thickness as the side rails. A quick look under your car should answer the correct frame or not question.............Bob
  39. 1 point
    Amazing, I think a lot of LS swaps have been done, or assumed necessary for just those reasons. Well, that and peer pressure. The first question is "How did they get the premium money out of this car when it was on the showroom floor?" Now you can: Bernie
  40. 1 point
    Thanks old-tank for found the information....very helpful!!(Yesterday I purchased a 1954-1966 Interchange Hollander manual myself!! lots of information )Daniel
  41. 1 point
    I`m curious if the "correct" `67 mirror is the clip on? It would seem that if the holes are punched in the visor already that the above style mirror is correct for `67? I could check accessory catalogs if anyone else is curious, Tom
  42. 1 point
    Hi All Hot Spring day here in Australia. As promised I have attached a few photos of our "Chromefest", held 20 minutes drive from my home. Lots of stalls and entertainment and of course lots of cars. All American cars are welcome with a 1978 limit on local models, over 400 cars, far too many to capture! Here is a taste Cheers Paul
  43. 1 point
    Guess this is one topic where you want an engine that really sucks
  44. 1 point
    John. Dave Young here. How about that dinner at the Woodstock Inn ! Those guys do a fantastic job putting this tour together and Cathy and I have enjoyed every one we have attended. We've done 7 now. Glad to hear that the timing gear swap went well and hope to see you and your wife next year. I think Block Island is on the board for 2018. Always fun!
  45. 1 point
    A comment was made on another thread about not underestimate the excavating work. No truer words can be spoken. I way under estimated the time to really get my site finished up. Not even Grass and flowers but just the amount of work to flatten a spot on a hill, then the drainage for the building and proper grading of the whole area. Seems all I do is get everything levelled off or graded properly, then dig it all up for something else. I put stone in for the drainage of the eves, fortunately only on one side, when a friend told me i really should use a coarser stone without the dust. So i had to dig that whole side back out, 20 ton of stone and fill it with a different type. Fortunately I just used the reclaimed stone in the driveway. I had to cut grade down in front of the garage 16 inches. That's alot of dirt to move with my small equipment. So much I now have a huge mountain of it and I filled in a large area behind my existing garage. I finally think i am seeing the light of day, which is good as my building crew hasn't showed up so I'm going to have to start framing it myself. I do have some more stone to put down but I think i have enough for the water to drain and not create such a mud pit like after the last deluge we had a few days ago. It's suppose to be 3-5 inches of rain in the next day and a half. I'll see if i have everything properly pitched. Of course the rocks have presented a bit of a challenge a well. All those you see and I buried alot of the others I found. My wife likes stone walls, so I have been stock piling them for future projects.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Looks like the same calendar picture has been turned into a placemat!
  48. 1 point
    The older I get the more I notice there is a special way to say "original" in car talk. One has to extend their neck slightly so their head is a little forward of their shoulders. The they drop the "o" to say "ridgenole". That is done with a slight lowering of the head and a bob that rises upward at the end that turns into a positive nod. All this happens with a slight glazing of the eyes. This became apparent to me when I noticed people weren't saying "original" the way I originally heard it said or the way I say it. However , it is very entertaining to be able to predict it. Think I'm kidding? I bet you see it now. In 1980 I picked up a wood wheel and four wire wheel covers for $30 at a swap meet. I threw out the old black wheel. Too plain looking. Bernie
  49. 1 point
    Went to Hershey a couple of times in mid 60s with my parents, went back as an adult in 71 and have had a space since 72. In 71 we went with friends and didn't get there till around noon on Saturday and vendors were leaving. In all the years of vending at Hershey I don't think we sold $100 worth of stuff on Saturday all the years put together. We always stayed till Sunday morning till the year someone came around and told us we needed to be out by 6am Sunday, we said ok, we were woke up at around 3am when the porta-potty people started pumping out johns and loading them up, smell and noise. Back then we lived 5 hours away and could not sleep in our truck camper if we had our flea market stuff loaded so we started driving straight through Saturday afternoon to go home. This year someone came around Saturday morning while I was at the show and asked my wife if she had any more trash to throw away because they were going to start picking up trash cans soon. Probably the easiest solution to the Saturday flea market problem is to stop advertising the flea market on Saturday. Saturday is car show day.
  50. 1 point
    Those look like basic Sherman hose clamps. Depending on what size you need, they are available from Restoration Supply in original or reproductions. Look at their catalog on their website. The clamps are not particular to Buicks, they are used on a lot of teen cars.