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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    It was such a nice Fall day here in Toronto, I was able to get out for a short drive in the Electra late this afternoon. Though before that I moved my wife's Wildcat out of the shelter where it has been stored to do a bit of a clean up on it, in preparation to move it to the new place in a few more weeks. I only drove that about 30 feet each way. That's the other news, we are moving to a much larger place in the country! We get possession in a few weeks, though we will still have a foot in the city till the middle of next year. The nice thing about the new place, is that it has a 28X40 foot garage, insulated and well heated, plus a two car attached garage. Keith
  2. 5 points
    He jumped a little at first when the horn went off, but he laughed the second time! My first grandson, Benjamin. Peter Hoemsen ROA # 6910
  3. 5 points
    Sunday October 22, 2017: Sound Deadening, Insulation This afternoon I applied the Dynamat Extreme insulating panels to the floor inside the cabin. Then I used a Dynamat to insulate the floor of the trunk. Here's how I did it: Clean everything up. You'll want to remove the battery cover, accelerator pedal, transmission cover and just remove the lower two screws of the pedal plates. I bought this Dynamat Extreme "9-pack" which is 36 sq feet total. I found the sheets very easy to maneuver and cut. I began by laying things out with the backing paper still attached to try to figure the easiest way to lay things out with minimum cuts. First piece being installed. I used the roller they recommend. I purchased it when I did the firewall. Roll everything down tight and into all the grooves. It is very easy to mold into all the recesses. Once the back sheets were in, I moved up front. If you mark out all your openings, screw holes and other things with a gold sharpie marker it makes it easier to cut outside the car. Here's my marks around the pedal pads. I just removed the lower two screws and slid it under. CAUTION! IF THIS DOUBLES OVER ON ITSELF, IT'S RUINED! I lost one piece because I didn't know that once it folds over on itself there is this instant bond that is unbreakable! So I learned to leave the paper on, seat the leading edge then remove as you roll the mat down to the floor. The stuff is in, and I just have to re-install the accelerator pedal and the transmission cover. Covers back installed, which also helps keep the edges down nice and tight. Another view So, that is what 8 1/2 sheets will cover. I only did the floor, and that's all you get out of the kit. For the trunk, I opted to use one single "Dynapad". It's 1/2" thick and very heavy. Here, I lined up the rear edge to the trunk edge and folded it over to get the support line. Using chalk, I marked the folded edge. Remove it from the car and you'll get a good clean cut. Being this pad is so heavy, I felt it really didn't need to be so strongly adhered. I used this 3M product only on the edge. A light spray, about 2" in from the back edge just to tack it in position and prevent sliding. It's a good fit, and a nice cushioned base and a heavy sound deadener. Next, I measured my trunk liner from LeBaron Bonney. Again, keeping it nice and straight and even at the edge, I measured the angled wood support Give it a good crease and mark it with your chalk. Then double check it. Don't cut all the way through so you don't mess up your leather binding. Put some weight on it so it sets nice and flat. So, next is the side panels and installing the wood floor. Have a great night! Gary
  4. 4 points
    Well now....torque of the town is she?
  5. 4 points
  6. 4 points
    Took the '75 Electra for a 60 mile drive on Ct. and Westchester NY back roads today.
  7. 3 points
    The Buick Club of America is coming to the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals! MCACN is considered the Pebble Beach of Muscle Cars and it happens Nov. 18 and 19 at the Stephens Convention Center, Rosemont, IL in suburban Chicago. This year, MCACN has the largest display of Buicks ever, including the last Grand National ever built! If you are a BCA member, stop by our booth to say hello. If you are not a member, look us up to learn why you should be! No matter how you like to enjoy your Buick, we have a place for you in the BCA. http://www.mcacn.com/ http://www.buickclub.org
  8. 3 points
    I needed a few special brackets made from stainless steel, so I drew them up on my computer using TurboCAD Pro and uploaded the file to i.materialise.com. They printed and sintered stainless steel powder, then infused it with bronze to get strong, solid parts. Their specs claim a yield strength of 66 ksi (455 Mpa), about 20%-50% higher than mild steel or typical 304 or 316 stainless. The pieces were about 1.5"x0.5"x0.75", weighed 0.65 ounce each. The cost was about $18 per part. It took about 1 month for processing and shipping from the Netherlands. The parts have been tumbled to smooth them, but they would need more polishing to make them completely smooth. I plan on tapping the center hole for a 1/4-20 thread. For info on the process, see https://i.materialise.com/3d-printing-materials/steel I am encouraged that the parts do seem to be strong, solid metal, and that they could be machined, polished, and plated, if needed. As delivered, they are certainly suitable for mechanical use. They weren't really cheap, but far less expensive than having them machined from bar stock or cast. The other company that produces parts from this type of material is shapeways.com, about the same pricing. They both take many types of 3D CAD files (.STL, IGS, STEP, etc.). The maximum part size is about 30"x15.5"x15.5", though anything large enough for that space would be very expensive. The sintering and infiltration process does seem to shrink the parts, so i.materialize advises scaling the CAD model up about 2%-3% but final part accuracy is about +/- 1%, so plan on finish machining critical dimensions. Previously, when I wanted to make 25-50 small parts, I 3D printed a plastic model, then had them investment cast in silicon bronze using wax replicas. Direct printing in stainless steel seems to be cheaper when only a single part or a few parts are needed. This is one way to replace those old, broken pot metal parts.
  9. 3 points
    Hi, few years ago I bought a beautifully preserved (untouched, sound, all original) 1947 Buick Roadmaste4 Sedanette 76S. It was in Paris, sold new in Paris! I had it running, what a marvel! But now it needs a new fuel pump, someone could help me? i am also considering to buy five new white-wall tyres. What do you think? The current one are very old, I have to replace them anyway. Do yo7 know the exact sizes? Which make/type do you suggest? Many thanks. Here a few pictures.
  10. 3 points
    Roberta; You know I will be there with the '73 4 speed. Dinner with the gang Friday at Hofbrauhaus and Sat at Gibsons with the Gang. Let me know if you are in for when I make reservations. Can't wait!
  11. 3 points
    The best stuff for getting scratches out of paint or polishing paint is Mother's Billet Metal Polish part no. 05106 It comes in a 4 oz. tub and I buy it from Amazon because most parts stores don't sell it. It removes scratches like a rubbing compound but leaves a streak free scratch free brilliant shine like a fine finishing polish, all in one 15 second step. A custom painter that painted my GTO told me about the stuff and the first time I used it I was flabbergasted. Just rub it into the paint with a damp microtowel and buff it off with a dry towel. The stuff is amazing, and it isn't even made for polishing paint, in fact it says do not use on paint right on the container. When I first tried it, I polished out my enitre 70 Chevelle SS 396's paint by hand with the stuff, waxed the car and won a Best Of Show Paint Award at a show with 300 cars in it the first time out. If you ever use it you will NEVER use anything else. I usually buy it from Amazon 4 or 5 tubs at a time as I use it a lot on my customer's cars at my car repair shop..
  12. 3 points
    Haven't gotten too much done on the sheetmetal, but chipping away at parts. I now have trunk boards!
  13. 3 points
  14. 2 points
    This is my 1931 Opera Coupe series 80-86 Straight 8 , 90 Type engine. She is very smooth on the road. Regards from Gran Canaria, Canary Islands. Spain
  15. 2 points
    I was down in SW Oklahoma recently doing some family research in the Mangum area. While doing that I came across this picture and I thought the group might appreciate it. It was purportedly taken sometime in 1910. Apparently during this period itinerant photographers would go from town to town and make images like this one and sell prints. In this case he was able to get those with autos to bring them for this panoramic image. There are 19 cars in the picture, with 7 being Buicks and 6 Fords. Of the remainder, one is a Velie, the others I don't know. So, is the date of the photo correct? Anyone see anything the the Buicks or other cars that can establish the year? I think the Buick on the right is a Model 10? Here is the original, I broke it into pieces so you can see the cars better Enjoy! Cheers, Dave
  16. 2 points
    you mean when I thought I cracked the back window with my head when you put it in third...
  17. 2 points
    In my opinion, that is more desirable than a perfectly restored car. I sent a PM.
  18. 2 points
    It’s a Century nailhead, did you really expect anything less?
  19. 2 points
    Actually, that's true, as I have already talked to the local planning dept about being able to expand the garage a bit. The property is nearly 2 acres in size, and is out of the town, so an expansion of the garage space looks feasible. Keith
  20. 2 points
    This is not a new subject, and the response shows that there is interest. I'm not going into my whole narrative but, a couple of notes on why and how my cars are named. With some exceptions, I doubt that any man who says that his cars don't get named, has a women in his life who is as interested in cars as he is. Because if he did, the car would be named as soon as it came into the household. Sometimes a name is chosen even before the purchase is made. As a matter of fact if a man wants his better half to bond with a car, naming it is the most fool proof way that I know to get it done. Helping in choosing a paint color is the other foolproof way of getting your women to bond with the car, but the first is obviously the easiest way. Once named a car seems magically transformed from an inanimate objet to something with a personality. Male or female, the gender is determined by the car's character, but my better half and I do the naming together. Often the name given helps to honor the friend from whom I got the car. Every car has a story and a name can be part of an original car's story, people love it! In my world cars are going to get named. I could have chosen to be a part of the process, and enjoy it, or fight a loosing battle. The choice for me was simple.
  21. 2 points
    Changing the drivetrain will probably not make you very popular around here. That looks like a nice car - consider keeping it original.
  22. 2 points
    I spent a good portion of the last 2 evenings watching Baseball and filling in and sanding the hols in the base of the carb, I have the filled in and the base is flat now. There was on BIG hole on the leftand lots of little pinholes throughout. I took JB weld and ran a skim coat over the holes and then sanded off most of it.
  23. 2 points
    ...and if you are more of visual learner like me, here you go.Hope this helps.
  24. 2 points
    Took the Electra Thursday to a Ct. Cafe Racers lunch in Danbury Ct. Yesterday I took my Gold '73 GS FAST racer to the pole barn for the winter. Today was a nice 60 mile drive in the '75 Electra again. Beautiful weather all week in the mid 70's. Hit 20,200 miles on the Electra today.
  25. 2 points
    Dirty Buick...but it was out yesterday for the first time in a month since moving into the new place.
  26. 2 points
    October 21, 2017 update While the paint shop is doing their thing, I've been working on other projects. Chrome and stainless parts continue to trickle in. These Buick accessory fender-mount mirrors are going to look awesome! The body is nearly paint-ready; it is looking great. Should have the underbody done before the end of October, then we'll re-install the body on the frame. Then, on to final gap checks and paint. A local supplier dielectrically embossed the interior vinyls with the correct, 1" spacing between the stitch rails. Tan and Beige materials in both grains (seats are Haircell grain, doors/quarters/pillars are similar to Madrid grain) This is the Tan Haircell for the seating areas and the back of the front seat: Been collecting parts and materials; will soon be delivering everything to a good friend who will be doing the interior. I am adding back-up lights to the tail lights. I didn't like the look of the coating on the tail light reflectors. It was a little dull and there was very little reflective coating in the lower, back-up light area. You can also see that one of the two reflectors is "duller" than the other. I brought the reflectors to Vacuum Orna-Metal in Rolulus Michigan. They cleaned and coated the reflectors; they turned out great! I will add a ground lug to every lamp housing to ensure good ground connections. I've had great success with this technique on multiple vehicles. I made up a gauge panel to monitor engine vitals during camshaft break-in. I incorporated the ignition and starter switches, ballast resistor and vacuum gauge. Primed the fuel and oil systems and got the engine ready to start. Larry Schramm helped me with the start-up and break-in. I must have installed the distributor incorrectly after priming the oil pump; it took several tries to get the engine to fire. Once we got it started, we had a smooth and uneventful 20 minute run. Changed the oil and filter after the break-in; everything looks great. Click below to see a few seconds of the Nailhead during cam break-in, video by Larry Schramm: The chassis has been delivered to the paint shop. I'll be wrapping the chassis in plastic film and shrink wrap to protect it from overspray. Nailhead cam break-in.3gp
  27. 2 points
    What's missing is the OP. I don't understand asking a question, having people take the time to answer and then not paying the courtesy of acknowledging the help.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    I BOUGHT THIS AT HERSHEY 6 OR 7 YEARS AGO. PROBABLY CONVERTED DURING WWii AS TRUCKS COULD QUALIFY FOR MORE GAS RATION COUPONS. WAY TOO MANY PROJECTS AHEAD OF IT AND IT'S TIME TO THIN THE HERD. MADE FROM A 1930 HUPMOBILE MODEL 'M' 4 DR. SEDAN WITH STRAIGHT 8 ENGINE. REALLY NICE DEGREE OF WORK GIVEN THE TIME AND ERA. METAL TOP INSERT. . A 1950 MAINE INSPECTIONS STICKER IS STILL ON THE WINDSHIELD. I BOUGHT IT FROM A DEALER WHO KNEW LITTLE ABOUT IT AS IT WAS PART OF AN ESTATE. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT SOME DEGREE OF WORK HAD BEEN DONE AT SOME TIME WITHIN THE LAST 10 OR SO YEARS AS IT HAS HAD AN EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLED AND THE PASSENGER SIDE FRONT FENDER WAS IN PROCESS OF BEING REFINISHED. THERE IS EVIDENCE OF A EARLIER BRAZING REPAIR TO THE HEAD AND ONE FREEZE PLUG IS MISSING. THE COIL IS MISSING. THE REST OF THE DRIVELINE IS INTACT. ORIGINAL GAS CAP AND TAIL LAMP STILL IN ORIGINAL POSITION. THE MOTOR IS NOT STUCK-I CAN SPIN IT OVER BY HAND. THE STARTER WILL SPIN WITH A JUMP BUT THE BENDIX WONT ENGAGE. THE DASH HAD BEEN DRILLED FOR A UNIVERSAL THREE POLE IGNITION SWITH BUT NO KEY CAME WITH IT. UNDERCARRIAGE IS VERY SOLID. SPEEDOMETER SHOWS 78K MILES. ORIGINAL CLOTH FABRIC STILL ON DOOR PANELS AND FAINT HINT OF GRAY STRIPING STILL EVIDENT ON DOOR EDGES. ORIGINAL HEADLAMP BUCKETS HAVE HAD SEALED BEAMS PLACED INSIDE UNDER ORIGINAL LENSES.. SEATS HAVE BEEN REUPHOLSTERED IN BROWN LEATHERETTE, CAR IS EQUIPPED WITH REALLY NEAT "NORTH EAST" HOT WATER HEATER. THE 4 WOODEN WHEELS ARE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION. ONE HUB CAP AND A SHOCK ABSORBER LINK ARE MISING. ORIGINAL CRANK STILL UNDER THE SEAT. VERY IMPRESSIVE SIZE COMPARED TO OTHER 30'S ERA HALF TON PICKUPS. SORRY FOR PHOTOS AS IT'S JAMMED IN BACK OF MY NARROW BUILDING. IF YOUR SERIOUS AND WOULD LIKE MORE PHOTOS I'LL DIG IT OUT TOWARDS THE FRONT FOR MORE PHOTOS. LOCATED 25 MILES WEST OF WASHINGTON D.C. IN NORTHERN VA. EMAIL OR CALL ME AT 703-966-8422 $6750.00 OR NEAR OFFER OR TRADE UP WITH CASH TOWARDS A RUNNING 50'S THRU 60'S TRUCK OR STATION WAGON
  30. 1 point
    In researching the Marvel information in a recent post, I came across this chart of suggested changes in jetting for Marvel carburetors used on Buicks that live above 4000 feet. The chart was too large for a single scan (have been too busy to hook up my large scanner), so I scanned in two scans which you should be able to pin together. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Buick_altitude_1.jpg http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Buick_altitude_2.jpg Jon
  31. 1 point
    Okay, that makes sense. It's called the "buyer's premium" even though the seller takes the ultimate hit, due to the fact that most sellers have a maximum amount that they are willing to pay for a particular car. Such an auction feature is worthy of some "comprehensive" program (insert program name here __________________) out of Washington D.C., purporting to be one thing, but actually resulting in another. Cheers, Grog
  32. 1 point
    OK George I can take a "hint, Hint" That will be in the works for next year sometime. At the 2016 CCCA annual meeting in Michigan , I gave a talk on custom coachwork for about an hour. It was planned to be at one of the rooms at the host hotel in Novi, Michigan , but wound up being in downtown Detroit at what is today the Center for Creative Studies - the old GM design building that they built for Harley Earl ! Thanks to Bill Parfet who thought it would be a more fitting location (wow was it) and it was up on the top floor in a auditorium about the size of an aircraft hangar where Harley Earl used to meet with his designers. They still had the working turntable in that room and Bill Parfet had his 1930 Cadillac V16 roadster hauled in and put on the turntable after its trip up in the freight elevator. Well he decided the 1936 Cadillac V16 aerodynamic coupe by Fleetwood he owned would be better, so had the 1930 roadster taken out and the coupe put in its place! That aerodynamic coupe just about fit on the turntable, the center of the wheels front and back were dead center at the edge of the turntable. Pretty cool to see the car turning around while I gave the presentation. The talk I gave we modified for CCCA presentations at Boca Raton and Auburn , Indiana recently. At the 2018 CCCA annual meeting the plan is to have several seminars/talks including at least one on classic era design and styling. Walt
  33. 1 point
    I remember when late '60s Biscaynes were considered crappy, too.
  34. 1 point
    The Bothwell Collection? Bob
  35. 1 point
    Thanks ,That is kind of what I was thinking , they could go in block . The only advantage I have is fact they where out back in early 90's for rebuild . Yes , would have to use thin nuts . I'll check with my mechanic ,sure he has one of those tool . This is getting to be to much to just relocate the horn and have the studs proper .
  36. 1 point
    Very desirable! If you want to contact me at National HQ. I will give you values from several current guides although guides do not buy cars and some are suspect. The good thing is that these cars are "relatively" plentiful and determining the values should not be a problem. Ask for Steve
  37. 1 point
    Thank you, once again, Sebastien. I won't have much time for car work for a while but I'll keep your kind offer in mind.
  38. 1 point
    Its still a 53 "BUICK SKYLARK " and worth at least $22000 by current bid !!!! Yes it is ruff . Bill
  39. 1 point
    I have seen intake manifolds that iced up because this heat manifold was disconnected.
  40. 1 point
    Another tip for you , Paul. As long as your carb is off this would be a good time to block off as much heat as reasonably possible to your carb and intake manifold. Any direct exhaust heat should be thoroughly blocked , and any insulation and isolation against thermal bridging from the exhaust manifold , should be employed/adapted. This has been recommended for decades , Harold Sharon wrote of the advantage of disabling intake ovens as much as possible. The "smoking gun" reason for the original need for this extreme heat is documented here in Marks' Mechanical Engineers Handbook , 2nd ed. 1924 , and 3rd ed. 1930 , under "Cracked Gasoline". Engines prior to the inclusion of heavy complex low volatility components by the refiners did not have ovens. It would have made them run poorly originally , just as it will your engine , now that gasoline is more similar to what was available before the mid 'teens. I bring this subject up from time to time , but I don't know if you have see it before. I hope you are on the road soon ! - Carl
  41. 1 point
    Yes i think this is a 1 year only deal
  42. 1 point
    Building upon what MCHinson alluded to, is it possible that the glass pane is the culprit? Was the cracked glass you replaced, and which you followed closely to duplicate, not the original pane that came with the car? Maybe the original was broken somewhere in the car's prior history and was replaced with one that was not cut correctly. That might also help explain some of the rust you found in the bottom section of the body, because the bogus replacement glass did not seal tight.
  43. 1 point
    Just GOOGLE (images of 1966 American sedans) lots of better looking pieces than this MESS of a car. I bet most automotive designers did, and still are scratching their heads. It it belongs in the selection of butt ugly cars. Dale in Indy
  44. 1 point
    Oil pump finished - picked thinnest gasket possible, resulted in ~ 0.002” end float on the gears. Anyone know what the front pipe is for - it just feeds to the other side of the mesh (bypassing the filter). I guess it was a crude bypass if the mesh becomes completely clogged - but if it got to that stage then the oil that it would be picking up wouldn't be great!
  45. 1 point
    Ha, me thinks some are confused between a business and a hobby. Most of the business run spots are staffed the whole time, me as a one man show hobbiest will do as I please and if it don't please you.....too bad. I'll be at my site when I can and when I can't I won't. I do not make a living offering the parts I've accumulated and frankly I am usually under water when all is said and done, but if someone needs or wants what I have and it helps their project along or brings them a little joy that's great. But I am not going to be waiting with baited breath for someone to come along if I don't want to be there every minute of every day. And 48 is way off base, that is not employee parking in the Chocolate field it is VOLUNTEER parking. Hats off to them.
  46. 1 point
    Yes, Dale, it's because I am trying to move the body skin along and it's not going well! After getting the hood pieces and side panels formed and louvered, I started in on the pieces for the cowl and cockpit area. These need to be "saddle" shaped, so the metal has to get stretched two ways. I (naively) thought I could just use the angle iron cockpit frame as the form, but I didn't really have enough to get the sweep over the cowl and around to the sides. Recognizing I was over my head, I got in touch with Fay Butler in Barre, MA, and drove out there to discuss the issue and enlist his help. Fay has a great shop, teaches metal forming, does projects, and trains apprentices. What he suggested - and we began - was stuffing the cockpit frame with blocks of 2" rigid insulation foam and using a pneumatic sander to shape it to the curves. I need to add on enough rigid foam to make the curve in front of the driver. I have to convince Fay that I am not really a candidate to become an apprentice body former at my age - I just need to get THIS body done. Fay told me about how Harley Earl introduced the concept of precision sweep curves to body design and showed me his sets of curves. These are number such that a #11 curve has a depth of 11/8" over a 60" length. A steeper #50 curve has 50/8" or 6.25" depth at the midpoint of 60" sweep. The trick is to use the sweeps over most of the surfaces and then blend the curves together. While I have a wood body buck allegedly used for the restoration of the tail of the #37 car, he urged me to also fill in this form and use some sweeps to blend the surfaces. I'm going to have to reconstruct and entirely new body buck to do this. In order to get more detail of the cowl shape, I went back to visit Bob Valpey's #37 car last week, took more measurements, and lots of photos. I hope I got enough photos to reconstruct the cockpit and rear body area using some 3D modeling software (Remake). Meanwhile, life has intervened and I've been distracted by serious house remodeling projects, demanding consulting clients, and some health issue of my in-laws. Anyway, here are some photos of Fay at work and the front cockpit frame partly filled with foam. I also included a shot of Fay's giant Yoder power hammer, the one he uses for serious metal shaping. It will stretch or shrink rapidly.
  47. 1 point
    Thank you, 1939_Buick. Not what I wanted to hear, just what I needed to hear. Ben
  48. 1 point
    Great story and great photos, Lamar! My favorite is the shot of the wild cat sitting on the Wildcat 410.
  49. 1 point
    My 56 Thunderbird. Finished this year and shown for the first time. Was honored to be nominated!
  50. 1 point
    John, thanks very much for the compliments... the car is really a 20-footer, but it's a survivor and I have no intention on doing much on the exterior, other than patching a few spots where the woodgrain has come off around the door handles. I bought the car to use for family camping trips, hauling bikes, etc., and while I'll keep it nice, it will get used. I've just taken it camping and it swallowed everything my wife wanted to bring without problem! Without the 3rd seat, the space under the deck is extremely useful! The ralley wheels are nice, but these will need some refinishing, so I will be keeping my eyes open for nicer ones as it will be cheaper than having these rechromed. I have some more pics, but they are still on my camera... as soon as I download them I'll post a few more. I've attached a couple of more photos of my car and another local buick nuts '89 Estate Wagon.