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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    It was such a nice Fall day here in Toronto, I was able to get out for a short drive in the Electra late this afternoon. Though before that I moved my wife's Wildcat out of the shelter where it has been stored to do a bit of a clean up on it, in preparation to move it to the new place in a few more weeks. I only drove that about 30 feet each way. That's the other news, we are moving to a much larger place in the country! We get possession in a few weeks, though we will still have a foot in the city till the middle of next year. The nice thing about the new place, is that it has a 28X40 foot garage, insulated and well heated, plus a two car attached garage. Keith
  2. 5 points
    He jumped a little at first when the horn went off, but he laughed the second time! My first grandson, Benjamin. Peter Hoemsen ROA # 6910
  3. 5 points
    Sunday October 22, 2017: Sound Deadening, Insulation This afternoon I applied the Dynamat Extreme insulating panels to the floor inside the cabin. Then I used a Dynamat to insulate the floor of the trunk. Here's how I did it: Clean everything up. You'll want to remove the battery cover, accelerator pedal, transmission cover and just remove the lower two screws of the pedal plates. I bought this Dynamat Extreme "9-pack" which is 36 sq feet total. I found the sheets very easy to maneuver and cut. I began by laying things out with the backing paper still attached to try to figure the easiest way to lay things out with minimum cuts. First piece being installed. I used the roller they recommend. I purchased it when I did the firewall. Roll everything down tight and into all the grooves. It is very easy to mold into all the recesses. Once the back sheets were in, I moved up front. If you mark out all your openings, screw holes and other things with a gold sharpie marker it makes it easier to cut outside the car. Here's my marks around the pedal pads. I just removed the lower two screws and slid it under. CAUTION! IF THIS DOUBLES OVER ON ITSELF, IT'S RUINED! I lost one piece because I didn't know that once it folds over on itself there is this instant bond that is unbreakable! So I learned to leave the paper on, seat the leading edge then remove as you roll the mat down to the floor. The stuff is in, and I just have to re-install the accelerator pedal and the transmission cover. Covers back installed, which also helps keep the edges down nice and tight. Another view So, that is what 8 1/2 sheets will cover. I only did the floor, and that's all you get out of the kit. For the trunk, I opted to use one single "Dynapad". It's 1/2" thick and very heavy. Here, I lined up the rear edge to the trunk edge and folded it over to get the support line. Using chalk, I marked the folded edge. Remove it from the car and you'll get a good clean cut. Being this pad is so heavy, I felt it really didn't need to be so strongly adhered. I used this 3M product only on the edge. A light spray, about 2" in from the back edge just to tack it in position and prevent sliding. It's a good fit, and a nice cushioned base and a heavy sound deadener. Next, I measured my trunk liner from LeBaron Bonney. Again, keeping it nice and straight and even at the edge, I measured the angled wood support Give it a good crease and mark it with your chalk. Then double check it. Don't cut all the way through so you don't mess up your leather binding. Put some weight on it so it sets nice and flat. So, next is the side panels and installing the wood floor. Have a great night! Gary
  4. 4 points
    Well now....torque of the town is she?
  5. 4 points
  6. 4 points
    Took the '75 Electra for a 60 mile drive on Ct. and Westchester NY back roads today.
  7. 3 points
    The Buick Club of America is coming to the Muscle Car and Corvette Nationals! MCACN is considered the Pebble Beach of Muscle Cars and it happens Nov. 18 and 19 at the Stephens Convention Center, Rosemont, IL in suburban Chicago. This year, MCACN has the largest display of Buicks ever, including the last Grand National ever built! If you are a BCA member, stop by our booth to say hello. If you are not a member, look us up to learn why you should be! No matter how you like to enjoy your Buick, we have a place for you in the BCA. http://www.mcacn.com/ http://www.buickclub.org
  8. 3 points
    I needed a few special brackets made from stainless steel, so I drew them up on my computer using TurboCAD Pro and uploaded the file to i.materialise.com. They printed and sintered stainless steel powder, then infused it with bronze to get strong, solid parts. Their specs claim a yield strength of 66 ksi (455 Mpa), about 20%-50% higher than mild steel or typical 304 or 316 stainless. The pieces were about 1.5"x0.5"x0.75", weighed 0.65 ounce each. The cost was about $18 per part. It took about 1 month for processing and shipping from the Netherlands. The parts have been tumbled to smooth them, but they would need more polishing to make them completely smooth. I plan on tapping the center hole for a 1/4-20 thread. For info on the process, see https://i.materialise.com/3d-printing-materials/steel I am encouraged that the parts do seem to be strong, solid metal, and that they could be machined, polished, and plated, if needed. As delivered, they are certainly suitable for mechanical use. They weren't really cheap, but far less expensive than having them machined from bar stock or cast. The other company that produces parts from this type of material is shapeways.com, about the same pricing. They both take many types of 3D CAD files (.STL, IGS, STEP, etc.). The maximum part size is about 30"x15.5"x15.5", though anything large enough for that space would be very expensive. The sintering and infiltration process does seem to shrink the parts, so i.materialize advises scaling the CAD model up about 2%-3% but final part accuracy is about +/- 1%, so plan on finish machining critical dimensions. Previously, when I wanted to make 25-50 small parts, I 3D printed a plastic model, then had them investment cast in silicon bronze using wax replicas. Direct printing in stainless steel seems to be cheaper when only a single part or a few parts are needed. This is one way to replace those old, broken pot metal parts.
  9. 3 points
    Hi, few years ago I bought a beautifully preserved (untouched, sound, all original) 1947 Buick Roadmaste4 Sedanette 76S. It was in Paris, sold new in Paris! I had it running, what a marvel! But now it needs a new fuel pump, someone could help me? i am also considering to buy five new white-wall tyres. What do you think? The current one are very old, I have to replace them anyway. Do yo7 know the exact sizes? Which make/type do you suggest? Many thanks. Here a few pictures.
  10. 3 points
    Roberta; You know I will be there with the '73 4 speed. Dinner with the gang Friday at Hofbrauhaus and Sat at Gibsons with the Gang. Let me know if you are in for when I make reservations. Can't wait!
  11. 3 points
    The best stuff for getting scratches out of paint or polishing paint is Mother's Billet Metal Polish part no. 05106 It comes in a 4 oz. tub and I buy it from Amazon because most parts stores don't sell it. It removes scratches like a rubbing compound but leaves a streak free scratch free brilliant shine like a fine finishing polish, all in one 15 second step. A custom painter that painted my GTO told me about the stuff and the first time I used it I was flabbergasted. Just rub it into the paint with a damp microtowel and buff it off with a dry towel. The stuff is amazing, and it isn't even made for polishing paint, in fact it says do not use on paint right on the container. When I first tried it, I polished out my enitre 70 Chevelle SS 396's paint by hand with the stuff, waxed the car and won a Best Of Show Paint Award at a show with 300 cars in it the first time out. If you ever use it you will NEVER use anything else. I usually buy it from Amazon 4 or 5 tubs at a time as I use it a lot on my customer's cars at my car repair shop..
  12. 3 points
    Haven't gotten too much done on the sheetmetal, but chipping away at parts. I now have trunk boards!
  13. 3 points
  14. 2 points
    This is my 1931 Opera Coupe series 80-86 Straight 8 , 90 Type engine. She is very smooth on the road. Regards from Gran Canaria, Canary Islands. Spain
  15. 2 points
    I was down in SW Oklahoma recently doing some family research in the Mangum area. While doing that I came across this picture and I thought the group might appreciate it. It was purportedly taken sometime in 1910. Apparently during this period itinerant photographers would go from town to town and make images like this one and sell prints. In this case he was able to get those with autos to bring them for this panoramic image. There are 19 cars in the picture, with 7 being Buicks and 6 Fords. Of the remainder, one is a Velie, the others I don't know. So, is the date of the photo correct? Anyone see anything the the Buicks or other cars that can establish the year? I think the Buick on the right is a Model 10? Here is the original, I broke it into pieces so you can see the cars better Enjoy! Cheers, Dave
  16. 2 points
    you mean when I thought I cracked the back window with my head when you put it in third...
  17. 2 points
    In my opinion, that is more desirable than a perfectly restored car. I sent a PM.
  18. 2 points
    It’s a Century nailhead, did you really expect anything less?
  19. 2 points
    Actually, that's true, as I have already talked to the local planning dept about being able to expand the garage a bit. The property is nearly 2 acres in size, and is out of the town, so an expansion of the garage space looks feasible. Keith
  20. 2 points
    This is not a new subject, and the response shows that there is interest. I'm not going into my whole narrative but, a couple of notes on why and how my cars are named. With some exceptions, I doubt that any man who says that his cars don't get named, has a women in his life who is as interested in cars as he is. Because if he did, the car would be named as soon as it came into the household. Sometimes a name is chosen even before the purchase is made. As a matter of fact if a man wants his better half to bond with a car, naming it is the most fool proof way that I know to get it done. Helping in choosing a paint color is the other foolproof way of getting your women to bond with the car, but the first is obviously the easiest way. Once named a car seems magically transformed from an inanimate objet to something with a personality. Male or female, the gender is determined by the car's character, but my better half and I do the naming together. Often the name given helps to honor the friend from whom I got the car. Every car has a story and a name can be part of an original car's story, people love it! In my world cars are going to get named. I could have chosen to be a part of the process, and enjoy it, or fight a loosing battle. The choice for me was simple.
  21. 2 points
    Changing the drivetrain will probably not make you very popular around here. That looks like a nice car - consider keeping it original.
  22. 2 points
    I spent a good portion of the last 2 evenings watching Baseball and filling in and sanding the hols in the base of the carb, I have the filled in and the base is flat now. There was on BIG hole on the leftand lots of little pinholes throughout. I took JB weld and ran a skim coat over the holes and then sanded off most of it.
  23. 2 points
    ...and if you are more of visual learner like me, here you go.Hope this helps.
  24. 2 points
    Took the Electra Thursday to a Ct. Cafe Racers lunch in Danbury Ct. Yesterday I took my Gold '73 GS FAST racer to the pole barn for the winter. Today was a nice 60 mile drive in the '75 Electra again. Beautiful weather all week in the mid 70's. Hit 20,200 miles on the Electra today.
  25. 2 points
    Dirty Buick...but it was out yesterday for the first time in a month since moving into the new place.
  26. 2 points
    October 21, 2017 update While the paint shop is doing their thing, I've been working on other projects. Chrome and stainless parts continue to trickle in. These Buick accessory fender-mount mirrors are going to look awesome! The body is nearly paint-ready; it is looking great. Should have the underbody done before the end of October, then we'll re-install the body on the frame. Then, on to final gap checks and paint. A local supplier dielectrically embossed the interior vinyls with the correct, 1" spacing between the stitch rails. Tan and Beige materials in both grains (seats are Haircell grain, doors/quarters/pillars are similar to Madrid grain) This is the Tan Haircell for the seating areas and the back of the front seat: Been collecting parts and materials; will soon be delivering everything to a good friend who will be doing the interior. I am adding back-up lights to the tail lights. I didn't like the look of the coating on the tail light reflectors. It was a little dull and there was very little reflective coating in the lower, back-up light area. You can also see that one of the two reflectors is "duller" than the other. I brought the reflectors to Vacuum Orna-Metal in Rolulus Michigan. They cleaned and coated the reflectors; they turned out great! I will add a ground lug to every lamp housing to ensure good ground connections. I've had great success with this technique on multiple vehicles. I made up a gauge panel to monitor engine vitals during camshaft break-in. I incorporated the ignition and starter switches, ballast resistor and vacuum gauge. Primed the fuel and oil systems and got the engine ready to start. Larry Schramm helped me with the start-up and break-in. I must have installed the distributor incorrectly after priming the oil pump; it took several tries to get the engine to fire. Once we got it started, we had a smooth and uneventful 20 minute run. Changed the oil and filter after the break-in; everything looks great. Click below to see a few seconds of the Nailhead during cam break-in, video by Larry Schramm: The chassis has been delivered to the paint shop. I'll be wrapping the chassis in plastic film and shrink wrap to protect it from overspray. Nailhead cam break-in.3gp
  27. 2 points
    What's missing is the OP. I don't understand asking a question, having people take the time to answer and then not paying the courtesy of acknowledging the help.
  28. 1 point
    Took Dales 1929 Hupp Sport Coupe to a car show today. Got best of show out of 200 cars. Picked up a hitchhiker on the way home
  29. 1 point
    Well, you could have, albeit probably agin the law. So you just squealed tires while pulling out into traffic? At one time back in the early 70's I had 3 vehicles, a 68 Volkswagen bus, a 70 Triumph GT-6 + and Breeze, the '54 Special 2 dr sedan. The VW bus, loaded down with a bunch of long haired hippies broke down about half way between Atlanta and Athens while coming home from a Led Zepplin concert at the stadium. I hitchhiked home, got in the Buick and went back to the bus with a long chain, hooked up to it and pulled it probably about 40 miles. A real seat pincher going down hills and through some of the small Georgia towns in the early morning hours with a bunch of long hairs in both vehices. Got home in time to change clothes and get to work, on time. With a dropped valve and wore out brakes, I think that was the last trip for the bus.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    The Bothwell Collection? Bob
  32. 1 point
    I've had better lock with nylon/fiber washers over the copper for the drain plug. They are about 15 cents each. Fiber: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-21587-097-018.aspx Nylon: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-375-097-004.aspx
  33. 1 point
    Thanks ,That is kind of what I was thinking , they could go in block . The only advantage I have is fact they where out back in early 90's for rebuild . Yes , would have to use thin nuts . I'll check with my mechanic ,sure he has one of those tool . This is getting to be to much to just relocate the horn and have the studs proper .
  34. 1 point
    Everything every one says is true. But the club needs to keep it's eye on the prize. The prize is to provide vendors/parts for the buyers, draw buyers to the meet to provide revenue for the vendors, and expose potential members to the club. I'm not so sure the prize is to provide an annual meeting place for old cronies or a close parking spot. From my superficial observations and other's reports that's what seems to be happening. Carried to it's logical conclusion: fewer buyers will show up because they are discouraged by empty spaces, fewer vendors will bother to set up thus making for more empty spaces meaning fewer buyers etc etc etc. For awhile it will be sustained by the old crony/we've been coming here for 50 years guys but as their ranks thin even the die-hards will give it up and the only sound will be those of crickets. That's pretty much the definition of a death spiral. I don't know enough or are smart enough to provide answers to the problem but it certainly looks like a problem..................Bob
  35. 1 point
    Very desirable! If you want to contact me at National HQ. I will give you values from several current guides although guides do not buy cars and some are suspect. The good thing is that these cars are "relatively" plentiful and determining the values should not be a problem. Ask for Steve
  36. 1 point
    Thank you, once again, Sebastien. I won't have much time for car work for a while but I'll keep your kind offer in mind.
  37. 1 point
    Terry, you owe NO ONE an apology. I can remember trying to touch base with you at Hershey in years past when you were on the board and you'd be in meetings until almost 11 at night. Knowing the hours that Herb, Steve, Tom, Joe Vicini, Joe Gagliano, Hulon, Don, Mike, Dave Zimmerman and the rest of you kept during Hershey week, I don't know how you did it, often questioned why you did it, but always appreciated the fact that it was done. With that in mind, you have a decent Flea Market spot over by the Giant Center. When you were on the board, you shouldn't have been chastised because you couldn't be at your spot all of the time because of your duties as a National Director, nor should you have been forced to surrender those spaces. The fact that you still paid the money for your spots and didn't have time to recover the dough you shelled out in those spots says a lot too. I understand the price you paid and don't like the fact that someone finds it as "abuse in government" because you paid for your spaces and couldn't be there all the time. You know that I fall under the younger group, I work a lot of hours, I don't have a large pile of cash, I don't have a large amount of vacation time, I only get weekends off once every six weeks, and my dad and I pool our money in able to be able to afford to do what we do. With that in mind, to spend what little time I have in meetings never appealed to me. As I had told Joe Gagliano in the past, I've watched you guys run your butts off and you never had time to enjoy your own cars. You and I both know of people who ran for a board position, and once they got their term in as National President, jumped ship after they got what they wanted. Had I caved in, I wouldn't have looked at a three year term, I'd have looked at 15 years. I feel that 15 years is a long time to park your cars to be tied down to the board. I know it needs to be done by someone (21 people), I never would've done it for the power or the title, I could've cared less about the recognition, but I'm not the one who wants to do it because I would've left my father high and dry in terms of the building and maintaining the cars. It would mean a bigger strain on me financially and in time. As a vendor myself, I have five spots. When you figure in our trailer and the truck we pull it with, I don't have merchandise on all five of my spots, and you have to have a means to get your stuff onto your spots, and if someone thinks I should park my truck and trailer someplace else because of the no parking rule has lost their mind. In the case of Chuck Crane, he has his motorhome on site next to his merchanise. Does the motorhome take up space?? Yes it does, but by having his motorhome on site, he doesn't have to close up shop to go stand in line for that $8 milkshake or to go to the bathroom. You are 100% correct that this is a hobby. We're restoring stuff too, and I had to leave my space to go to Judging School, to get my Hershey souveniers, to renew my dues at another club, to get new catalogs from the vendors I do business with, etc. I also have had a history of horse trading with other vendors for stuff that I need too. When you've been around the hobby as long as we have, you also tend to get stopped by people who know you. When that happens, that takes time, and it keeps you away from your space. I'm not going to shut someone off to go please a disgruntled customer who may never do business with me anyways. In terms of the complaint about the Flea Market getting full use, I suppose the next complaint will be that the AACA Library or the Museum should be chastised because they're not open 24 hours like Wal Mart is..... We pay for our Flea Market spots, but that doesn't mean someone should expect us to be chained to those spots for four days. Whether we're selling or buying, Hershey is a great event, but it's not our life. By the way, in case I haven't said this to you in a while, thank you for dedicating 15 years of service to the club as a national director. When I chaired that national meet, I saw firsthand what you and the others did, and I was floored when I understood the time and stuff you guys had to do. One more thing that I forgot?? Hats off to the Hershey Region for another great event. I know I've said this before, what brought me into AACA to begin with was so I could show a car at Hershey. Had it not been for the Hershey event, I might not have ever joined AACA to begin with.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    No, they are die cast parts.
  40. 1 point
    That's a wonderful Loco engine. Do you have the chassis too? I'm only curious because they are probably my favorite early American automobile.
  41. 1 point
    Guess when he takes delivery he'll say "Well, it ain't urine any more, it's mine....."
  42. 1 point
    Just GOOGLE (images of 1966 American sedans) lots of better looking pieces than this MESS of a car. I bet most automotive designers did, and still are scratching their heads. It it belongs in the selection of butt ugly cars. Dale in Indy
  43. 1 point
    6 stuck exhaust valves 2 weeks ago....now none. Pistons never stuck.
  44. 1 point
    Oil pump finished - picked thinnest gasket possible, resulted in ~ 0.002” end float on the gears. Anyone know what the front pipe is for - it just feeds to the other side of the mesh (bypassing the filter). I guess it was a crude bypass if the mesh becomes completely clogged - but if it got to that stage then the oil that it would be picking up wouldn't be great!
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Man...are we going to miss those rear view pictures!
  47. 1 point
    Here's my nominated car from this year -- a 1935 Auburn Super-Charged convertible sedan that my brother and I restored from the ground up in the mid-1990s. I didn't bother submitting the required photos because I felt the car had gone down and no longer merits a national award.
  48. 1 point
    My 56 Thunderbird. Finished this year and shown for the first time. Was honored to be nominated!
  49. 1 point
    1919 Locomobile Sportif, restored in the original colors in the early 1970s and exceptionally well preserved. Nominated last year but did not win.
  50. 1 point
    It's been a while since I've revisited this topic. I still have the wagon but, it's taken a beating the last several years. It's pretty much a winter car now, and as such will only receive necessary maintenance and selected repairs. Which leads me back here today. This spring the tailgate began to malfunction. It swings like a car door for people to enter the rear seat. But it stopped unlatching to fold down for cargo loading. Since I need that feature I decided to tackle that yesterday. I was surprised at how simple it was. After removing the interior trim panel, I removed the access door to the latch area. Then I saw that the lockout feature was misplaced. The lockout is to prevent the gate from laying down while the window is open. This rod is simply pushed down once the glass is about 90% retracted. That last 10% releases the lock on the fold down latches. Obviously the rod is supposed to go through that rusted out hole in the brace at the bottom of the door, to keep the rod in place. Since this car is pretty much on borrowed time, I decided not to get too fancy and just make a new bracket to hold the rod where it's meant to be. After a few measurements, I cut a piece of metal and began bending After some test fitting and trimming, eventually I wound up with this. Which sits in this position After painting and general clean-up of the insides of the door, I tacked this in place with two self tapping sheet metal screws, and then took the opportunity to clean the slides for the rear window and lubricate all the mechanicals. Now to go get some materials for the next home repair project.