Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/08/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 4 points
    I just drove 10 miles through the darkness here in Hershey in a '41 Buick with 6-volt electricals and original bulbs and found them to be adequate for the car's modest performance. You might look into the halogen bulbs available through several vendors (there's a thread on it here somewhere) or maybe even converting to sealed beam. I converted my taillights to 6V LEDs and had good results, too. The 12-volt conversion is almost always more trouble than it's worth and will probably diminish the value of the car. If you don't like the lights getting dim at idle, then an alternator might be a good idea, but a properly regulated generator should have no problem keeping up with your headlights. It'll discharge at stop lights, but it'll top itself up again once you start driving. Don't sweat that part. A 12-volt conversion is not a solution to a problem you're having. It's an invitation for new problems you don't have yet.
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
  5. 3 points
  6. 2 points
    Downtown for a brewery tour with 5 of us packed in...
  7. 2 points
    Friday October 6, 2017: Installation of the Rear windows Two days ago I installed the front windshield. That allowed me to get the wipers installed and I am ready (once the temperature gauge arrives!!) to install the instrument cluster and the dash. Tonight I installed the rear windows, so I'm ready to install the headliner this week. Couple of differences between the front windshield and the rear windows: Windshield: My crew for the front windshield had a combined age of 158 years! (Pretty cool these guys are still "wrenching"!) We used soapy water, a bone tool and a metal hook with a ball at the end to pull the seal out and over the pinch weld. (Old School!) Rear Windows: My crew tonight has a combined age of 29 years. (16 and 13...gotta start sometime!) We used silicone, a thin plastic interior tool and a string to pull the seal out over the pinch weld. Although both methods yielded the same result, personally, I found that tonight was MUCH easier! Maybe it's just easier to seat the rear windows. It didn't take but 5 minutes to get both windows in (once they were cleaned, wrapped in the rubber, string.....) Here's the series of photographs: Tonight's tool box Clean the glass I soaked the gaskets in warm - to - hot soapy water to clean them and make them a little more flexible and pliable. I was able to give them a little stretch, and clean / dry the grooves with paper towels. Now you have to get this over that glass. I started with the factory seam in the center of the bottom surface. Get it going, and then some pulling and tugging and it will go on. Double check that you have them on correctly with the seal to the outside I first sprayed a little silicone into the seal groove. The string will absorb this and make it easier to pull the string out later. Begin running the string simultaneously from the upper center down the sides... To finally "criss - cross" at the bottom and I ran the string up the sides a bit to keep it stable. Here's the first piece of glass ready for installation And here's my crew!!!! Start by lifting the glass into position, getting the lower seal to jump over the pinch weld first. I used this thin plastic interior tool to carefully lift the seal over the pinch weld and the window literally slipped down into position. From the inside and outside, we put downward pressure on the glass to seat it. As the boys kept the downward pressure, I began pulling the string out. Here you can see the criss-cross at the bottom. So, as I slowly pulled the string out along the left (my left) edge, the boys pushed the glass toward the outside (my right, away from my work area) It seemed to allow the seal to slide out from under easier. So they are giving the glass a little shove to their left while I come up the center edge. Once I got to the top corner, I stopped and moved to the outside edge. So, again, while I was pulling here, the boys were pushing the window toward the center. Once the string was up and over the top corners, a little downward pressure on the glass and the string easily withdraws from the top edge. Cleanup was also much easier. It took close to 45 minutes to clean all that soap off the window, the paint and out from the gasket. Here, I sprayed Windex and wiped it off the glass. Fin I am so thankful that I have guys like John and Bob who know and teach all the "old school" (their words, not mine!) methods. Installing the glass has allowed me to experience two different techniques, so I figured I'd take the time to show the string method as well. Do what works for you, I don't think there is a right or wrong way. As always, THANKS for following along! Have a great weekend! Gary
  8. 2 points
    I purchased this Case Car. It was delivered to me Sat the 30 of Sept 2017. It is everything they said it was. I am very happy with it. I like em original. I post time to time as things transpire. I have a Model 10-18 Case Tractor , {little green one},Year 1918 to finish first. The larger running tractor is a LH Case known as a Hesselman Diesel , of of three known. Also just bought that Dodge CNT900 in the background with a 855 Cummins and a 13 speed. It doesn't need any fixing. Thanks to Mr Kelly Barnett for the Heads Up on this Car.
  9. 2 points
  10. 1 point
    As a first time poster but a 20 year+ member of the AACA and a long time "reader" of this great forum, I thought as I was removing this car I should take a couple of pics(hope they came thru) of a car I removed from my fathers barn the other day. I know people are still amazed at what people have stored away, and hoping for some of these interesting cars to see the light of day again. My father a long time collector has bought and sold 100s of cars when he could buy them for under $50,(in the 60s) and kept some of the more interesting ones with the hope of doing something with them one day. But as with many of collectors time catches up with you and you don't realize that you are not 40 anymore and still have all these cars that you are "going to get to one day" but are not. My father is in his early 80's and is still attending old car events in his 1911 Model T or his 1933 Studebaker, has with the passing of all his younger sibling realized that it is finally time to be a little more proactive in selling off a some of his cars. Being proactive for him is allowing me to start with one car and get it out of the barn and see about advertising to sell. The car in the pictures is a 1920 JI Case 7 passenger touring. With some of these more lesser known make it is hard to find much(good) information on or even who I can contact for some help. I have spent lots if time with my friend google the last few nights but it is a lot different looking up info on a Case automobile then info for a Model A or 55 Chevy. With the vast knowledge on this forum is there a member who can assist me with some info or even some direction for a contact, any help or info would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has any question I will respond as quickly as I can, I have lots more pics too if everyone would like to see more and /or I can take more as it is sitting in my shop at my home now. Thanks Jeff C, Ontario Canada
  11. 1 point
    Ronnie should have said the BUICK 7 spoke wheels. Those Buick [and Cadillac] wheels have the best chrome I have ever seen on wheels. They look great and are very inexpensive when buying from a yard. Glad he [and I] bought them!
  12. 1 point
    Back when I was younger, the drive was the tour. We used to get a pony keg, strap it in the middle of the back seat, and head off for the day's adventures. Can't do that any more. The back seats just aren't big enough.
  13. 1 point
    Yes. Basics: The definition of work is force times distance (W = F * D). I am using a programmer's notation where the "*" indicates multiplication. The definition of power is work divided by time (P = W / T). Since work is force times distance and speed is distance divided by time (P = F * D / T) and speed is distance divided by time (S = D / T), you can consider power to be force times speed (P = F * S). The forces you are working against to move a vehicle forward (forgetting internal losses in the engine and transmission, just considering the vehicle size and shape, road and air) are rolling resistance and wind resistance. Call the rolling resistance Fr and the wind resistance Fw Rolling resistance (Fr) is reasonably constant but depends on vehicle weight, wheel and tire design, etc. Wind resistance (Fw) goes up as the square of the speed. I've forgotten all the theory behind why it is the square but theory was based on lots of wind tunnel and other real world observations. The general equation is Fw = Cd * A * S * S where Cd is a measured "coefficient of drag" that makes the units work and accounts for the force values found when testing. "A" is the frontal area and "S" is the speed. The vehicle frontal area and shape don't usually change with speed so consider them constants. Instead of writing "S * S", the usual notation is S2. If speed is the goal, you'll notice faster vehicles usually have a small frontal area and a fast looking shape (i.e. low coefficient of drag). If you plug vehicle forces into the power equation you get P = (Fw + Fr)*S = ((Cd x A x S2) + Fr) * S. Above a fairly low speed the wind resistance dominates the equation so you can forget about the rolling resistance and you get P = Cd * A * S2 * S = Cd * A * S3 All of this is for a steady speed. If you want to consider how fast the vehicle can accelerate then there is a whole different set of equations that can be dominated by vehicle weight.
  14. 1 point
    I ended up making my own gasket for my door mirror out of a sample piece of composite floor tiling and a piece of black foam drawer liner. The foam is to provide a molded cushion between the door and the tile material. I used a 1/2" hole drill to drill out the remote control cable hole in the tile and a small drill bit to drill out the base mount screw holes. Unless you are looking directly at the mirror base you can't tell the gasket isn't stock. It's not perfect but it will do until I can find a stock gasket, (if one exists).
  15. 1 point
    much much smaller-no comparison.
  16. 1 point
    Early 55s had a center fill actually.
  17. 1 point
    I drove the Reatta about 6 km today after the transmission pan gasket was replaced to deal with the leak. Not much, but it counts. It's supposed to be nice here Sunday and Monday so I may retire it for the season after a wash and fill.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    The Lemay Collection at Marymount. I visited there at the invitation of a volunteer a few weeks ago - Mike met me in a Model T - drove me around the property- - then gave me a guided tour. He would visit there once a year as a kid on the day it was opened to the public. Now he is a volunteer - one of many who continue Harold’s passion for automobiles. Only (3) paid staff - the rest are volunteers. I am on the road just about every day - I have visited every of the lower 48 states. There is nothing like it ...... Jim
  21. 1 point
    thank you all for your help Ken
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    This description from a Bentley FB page: "Outside the Rembrandt Hotel Kensington, December 2, 1945. The Bentley behind the Mercedes 540K looks like Woolf Barnato's Speed Six Coupe CJ3811. The Mercedes was also owned by Barnato apparently." vintageracecar.com July 1, 2015 has an article about this. I don't have a subscription to see what it says. If anyone knows who the photographer was, where this was originally published or knows where a high resolution image can be found, please let me know.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I don't see why this car couldn't be an easy fix. Most of the items that are listed are not drivability issues. The tires would be the first item to be taken care of. Then the ABS if the red brake light is not on, then everything else can be done a little at a time. If I didn't already have a S60 I would buy ;the car. Somebody will get a great deal