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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/30/2017 in all areas

  1. Not the best picture but the 56 is mine.. Daily driver.. The Oldsmobile is a 52.. Customers car
    5 points
  2. Hi, I recently joined. I own Midwest Autosavers in Cary, IL which is about 50 miles NW of Chicago. We are a full service restoration shop with over 40 years exp. Anyway, we tend to collect antiques around here (myself included) and while cleaning the shop today I found an awesome book someone with a '51 Buick might want. Its an NOS spiral bound book about 5"x7" titled "Facts for selling 1951 BUICK". This is an awesome Salesman's fact book published by Buick Motor Division of about 135 pages that details everything about the car and all of its models from how the oiling system works, different trims, dynaflow operation on and on with pictures and hundreds of drawings and fold outs. . The back cover has a pull out flip chart with all the colors and their names on large sheets. I could probably make a few bucks on an auction site but I got it in a bundle of parts that have long since paid for themselves. I will offer it here to the 1st 1951 Buick owner that contacts me. Just cover the postage and its yours. All I ask is that you "pay it forward" some day when someone needs something. I'll spell out my email address so as to combat spammers. oldbugs(AT)comcast(DOT)net I didnt want to put this in the for sale section but will do so if required. Hope whoever responds enjoys it !
    3 points
  3. A recent visit by my brother in law resulted in my becoming a used car dealer, in miniature anyway. He decided he no longer wanted the toy cars from his youth so I bought them from him. Here is what I cleaned up so far. They are Dinky and Corgi cars and trucks from the early 1960s. Matt Harwood, Brass is Best, and others who sell cars on this site have nothing to worry, I won't be competing for your business! Terry
    3 points
  4. My first parade, last night, Linden, MI, homecoming parade with the Grand Marshall! Picture by Denny Manner, whose grandson was driving in it too! Then today, rode with Denny in his '72 GS Stage 1 about a 100 miles or so to go see our friend Joe Guzek and got to see Joe's Buicks too! Finally!
    3 points
  5. Matt, that is a beauty. I think you might be a little optimistic at $20K but, I am not as close to the market as you are. I purchased a 1975 Electra 225 Ltd. the beginning of August. $11,500 with 18,500 miles on it for AACA and BDE, etc. Tours. I have put nearly 1300 miles on it since then, it is not too highly optioned but, the Limiteds came fairly well optioned. Working on the AACA mileage award and almost at the first award chip. (awarded at 2000 miles) The car has even won 3 out of 3 times at a Local BCA and 2 other local shows. It certainly gets a lot of attention. ;-) The Black color helps as they pop in Black. I sure hope you get somewhere near what will be asking for this one. They are great cars to cruise in. IMHO better than a comparable Cadillac, better looking and less ostentatious. Thanks for saving and trying to pass this beauty along.
    3 points
  6. HI 49 Chrysler ! In the hopes that you check here again , I would like to welcome you to AACA Forums on behalf of all of us participants ! Your information , and presence here is to be encouraged. I am a 73 year old dog , and I constantly learn new tricks here. I particularly treasure finding out that long held misconceptions are exactly that. That new "recalibration" has had direct benefits to driving and caring for my old vehicles. Others don't really have immediate practical use. They do , however , lead to a much fuller understanding of a number of realms of our fascinating hobby. Another joy is the camaraderie on line. At my age , in my life , more than 1/2 of my very best oldest friends are gone. I miss them terribly. Each ones absence leaves a black hole in my universe. And yet , here on AACA , I feel the joy of real friendships , sharing with nice people who are doing nice things for one another. It makes me very happy. I am sure that we all hold out the hope that you will come back to join with us and share the happiness ! Your forum friend - Cadillac Carl P.S. In the case that you join us , I will post a pic of each of my two oldest cars. I have another coming , a 1930 Buick , but it is a project , and the title has not been transferred yet. So it can wait. Here are my 1924 and 1927 Cadillacs. Most of the guys and gals here already know them , so I will just show one pic of each without further comment other than to say they are unrestored originals , and I enjoy adding to the thousands of miles I have put on them. Again , welcome , and please share some of your cars with us ! - CC
    3 points
  7. Hey everybody! Been on the forum a short while and want to introduce myself and my soon-to-be 3-speed B60. Attaining this from my wife's uncle. Just over 29k original miles on the car (not 129k, paperwork was all saved and reflects the low mileage). Flint built car that has been in Wisconsin all its life. I will certainly be popping in here for advice in the near future!
    3 points
  8. Cars that I buy because "I'm smart" don't usually stick around long. "Smart" has a way of blinding perception. My comment may have sounded like I thought $20,000 was too much. That wouldn't matter if "I:" wanted it. Besides, it is not $20,000 too much. It is the actual value plus the premium one is willing to pay. This reminds me of the many years that professional managers were training me to be unemployable. Once I had lunch with one of our vendors and was gone two hours. Mr. Dithers, the jerk, went on a rampage about the 2 two hour lunch. It wasn't. The first hour was mine. I was one hour late, not two. So we aren't considering a $20,000 car. It is the nominal value plus some extra. When I paid $2,000 for my '64 Riviera in 1978 I was ridiculed by a couple of Riviera experts for paying twice as much as they could buy one for. 40 years later it means nothing. I, for one, have no problem paying extra for something I really want. AND I have no problem charging extra for a car I sell to assure it gets a good home with someone equally willing to extend for what they want. I am glad Matt is getting the car. It is assured a good long life. It will be displayed with cars that will elevate its image. It will be presented in the most professional manner I have seen collector cars advertised. And the inherent qualities it already has will be amplified. Bottom line, it is getting a better home. I have heard that story about selling because it is too nice to drive a number of times. Yeah, tell me another. Bernie
    3 points
  9. While I have not personally experienced it, I have heard more than one dealer (and more than one person on this very message board) claim that when a car doesn't sell, they raise the price. It does seem to be indicative of quality to some buyers and a higher price convinces them that it's a premium offering. I know of one dealer in particular who buys a car for $X, lists it for sale for $2X, and when a buyer negotiates it down to $1.5X, everyone thinks they've had a big win. It usually has to be something unusual and unique, not a cookie-cutter car where alternatives are readily available. I'm not going to have any margin on this car at all. But I love the car and want it in my showroom. I sold that 1959 Pontiac at a loss, and maybe this will sell at a loss, too. I think it's worthy and I think I can find a buyer who will see the value. $20K isn't much money these days in the grand scheme of things, but this is a great deal of car for the money. I certainly didn't buy it for $8000, if that's what you're thinking. It won't be a big score by any means. But sometimes you take great cars, money be damned, simply because they're great cars. Some of you might think I'm being foolish, and that's OK. But those of you who are smart and own cars like this should be rooting for me because I'm about to make all your cars more valuable just like I did with the Dodge Power Wagons...
    3 points
  10. Hey Gary, stop torturing us! It's been three days.
    2 points
  11. Matt. I bought a brand new set of gears and a new chain. The chain had to be assembled at the master link and quite frankly I didn't like the idea of trusting that small cotter pin to keep the chain intact, and wasn't a big fan of the aluminum gear so I sent it all back. My original chain had some slack, probably within spec, but I wanted to try to get it better. I found an NOS chain and used my original gears and it's the best solution. Timing marks are right on and she is whisper quiet in operation. If your gear teeth are in good shape, I feel you can't beat the original stock. Just my .02
    2 points
  12. Thanks for sharing the pics. Skewer me all you want, but my favorite was the circa '62 Rambler American convertible.
    2 points
  13. After reading 49 Chrysler,s OP many times it seems to me he was just trying to pass on some info. When you are a Newbie,the first impression you get when you try to fit into this forum is important.lf I was him I would never post again You only get ONE Chance to make a first impression. Do you ever wonder why we have trouble getting or retaining new membership? Ken
    2 points
  14. Actually, that was the test mule for the Harold and Maude car
    2 points
  15. Hi all, I am new to the Forum. I am seeking to buy my long time love being a 56 Buick. I have been looking for sometime and I recently came across this Site and Forum. I am glad I did noting the abundance of knowledge here. Anyway, I thought it would be a good idea to use this post to further my endeavour. I am preferably looking for a 2 door Hardtop which is in good running condition hopefully somewhere in the price range of $10k - $15k. If anyone knows of anything then please let me know. Thanks
    1 point
  16. This thread will deal with a task few if any will have to ever do, but may offer some suggestions on what to do and what not to do. As seen in photos, when I pulled my "barnfind" 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster out of hiding in late 2014, a PO had chopped the original dash and all it's gauges out, and installed what appears to have been a dash from a '33 era Chevrolet, along with miscellaneous gauges, most from an MG-B. After removing Chev dash, first task was to rough out a trial dash from 18 gauge steel (turned out too thin to avoid oil canning). Second task was to find some original gauges, proper ignition/coil, and choke/heat riser pulls and dash lights, 2 years of hunting found 4 of the 5 gauges (still need correct oil gauge), and a suitable coil. Repo dash lights may need to use until correct ones come along. same for pulls. Made final dash from 16 gauge steel. To create the 3/4" 90 degree return on lower edge, I clamped lower edge between to pieces of birch shaped to match the slight curve of lower edge, and used body hammer to make decent return. Dash requires 2" and 2&5/8" holes for gauges, and a 13.75" wide backing plate that requires holes 2&1/8" and 3&1/8", along with back welded #12 bolts. To space the 11 bolts correctly for welding and keep them perpendicular to panel, made a jig as shown, set bolts in wood, placed steel on top and mig welded from back. Also had to make bracket for ignition/coil combination. After carefully fitting everything in place including test fit into dash opening, some metal prep and primer cleans it up and protects it for now, will do a final install in cowl in a few weeks. I include a pic off internet of someone's nice dash. I'm just a hobby car restorer, just basic tools, limited experience, lots of patience. If anyone knows of some nice proper dash lights, and an oil pressure gauge, (2" diameter/white face similar to those shown), let me know. I cobbled one together for test fit using guts from an earlier Mopar car, and bezel from an SW gauge. Neither is perfect, but I may have to use for now.
    1 point
  17. Last time I took a car to show I obviously went the wrong way t enter the show field with the car. This year we want to enter via the correct location. I assume its down park blvd and around back to enter?
    1 point
  18. Finally some good pictures. Only ruined by Cislak standing next to the car! If you are desperate I'll give you enough to get your money back out.
    1 point
  19. Joseph showed the ad for the Skyhawk we bought to someone at Brookfield and got a response about it being overpriced. First thing to keep in mind is that it was priced in Canadian dollars so was just under 80% dollars what most Americans would think. We negotiated down from the asking price. Here's the thing though - we still paid on the high end for this model. Suzanne wanted it, so there's a reason to get it. It really is a nice, low mileage original car. Being unique with an unusual colour (for your average car show), it attracts a lot of positive attention. It's a fun little car and we like it. That's enough for me to justify the price paid. If we do like Bernie and keep it for the long term, then the premium we paid on it becomes less relevant all the time. Good luck with the sale Matt. It certainly looks to be a great car. It's nice to see you are passionate about it and that you aren't doing this just to turn a quick buck. The hobby needs more dealers that will do what you've done. I hope it finds a great home with someone who will appreciate it.
    1 point
  20. What size batteries do they take? Probably to small for friction drive too. I remember Dinky Toys, all mine were red. I would nose & deck them with my mother's finger nail file and re-paint them with nail polish! (They were still Dinky Ioys afterward) I guess my brother and I could have had a car lot too.
    1 point
  21. Friday night, and wi cars for the dinner cruise. Thanks to Keith and Glenda for this picture
    1 point
  22. I don't think this works in 36. I dug into this subject fairly deep about a year ago, and this is what I came up with. In 37 the Special and Century the rear axle is hypoid, instead of spiral bevel on the older cars. This Special and Century rearend shares a design with many later cars. This is why people can put "Century gears" (ring and pinion) in Specials. In 37 the Roadmaster and Limited are spiral bevel and thus the ring and pinion wont interchange with any later stuff. The 36 Century and Roadmaster use a spiral bevel rearend of the same basic design as the 37 Roadmaster. In theory you could exchange ring and pinion between those three. It wouldn't be a huge gear ratio change like putting Century gears in a special. I could never figure out what the 36 Special uses for a ring and pinion, but it may be a design all by itself. The Chevrolet Master / 1/2ton / Pontiac spiral bevel design (35-36 on cars, 35-39 on trucks) is the most obvious possibility. I was never able to make that connection. It seems that it is not similar. I never could nail down the Limited either. It seems to be something all to itself in 1937. It was probably like the 36 Century / 36-37 Roadmaster in 1936. I can't even guess about 38. Please post corrections.....
    1 point
  23. I use Pinnacle Black Onyx tire dressing. It is water based and makes the rubber look clean and black without gloss. It dries and does not attract dust. If you want a glossy look apply a few coats and it will gloss up. I like the tires matte and black. A silicone base will leach out the oils in the rubber and cause cracking in rubber or vinyl. That's why water based dressings and protectants are important. On my interior parts, I use Pinnacle vinyl and rubber protectant. It's water based also with UV inhibitors but doesn't give that glossy greasy look either. Just natural deep matte colours on plastic as if they were fresh out of the mold.
    1 point
  24. You are correct. If you are coming in on Hershey Park Drive you will turn onto Park Blvd. On Park Blvd there are usually an electronic sign or two and LOTS of people directing show cars. Once you come around back of the Giant Center there will be lanes for show cars that need to pickup their show car packet (if you did not get yours earlier in the week) and lanes for show cars that already have their show car packet. The back of the packet envelope will be marked with the lane ("Right" or "Left") which you will get into to enter the show field. On Saturday morning they close North Hockersville Road and use both lanes of the road ("Right" and "Left") to get show cars onto the field. Right after you get your dash plaque you will be directed to the proper "Right" or "Left" lane which will get you to the show field. After the show is over both exits for the show field can be used by cars leaving the show. At that point you may be directed/forced to turn left or right on North Hockersville Road to leave the show field depending on which of the two show field exits you are using. In any case you should be prepared. If you are able to turn left onto North Hockersville Road that will take you to the traffic light at Hershey Park Blvd. If you have to turn right you will have to follow North Hockersville Road to Old West Chocolate Avenue then find your way from there. The way traffic is routed after the show can change from one year to the next so be prepared. Hope this Helps. Charlie
    1 point
  25. Usually I find that the 'creaky' noise results from the springs themselves rubbing where the hooked ends contact the hinge. First, try just lubricating those spots and see whether the noise stops.
    1 point
  26. Matt, that's a beautiful car and don't worry -- it won't be long before someone snaps it up.
    1 point
  27. Oh, for Pete's sake!!! Anyone with the slightest sense of humor would know when someone is just poking a little fun. If the OP has that thin a skin then, perhaps, all online forums should be avoided. Have you ever seen some of the responses on Facebook or YouTube?? Makes this site look like Sunday school. As far as new people joining, it could just be a natural evolution. How many people are joining the Masons, the VFW, the Odd Fellows, the American Legion?? A lot of the old clubs and organizations are simply aging out. Sites like this could be part of the problem. With online forums, you can join with like minded people, usually for free and talk about anything, be it old cars, knitting, camping, woodworking, you name it. Why belong to a club when all the advantages are a click away?
    1 point
  28. Looking great, Ed! Sorry I won't be a Hershey to see it in the flesh, as it were. Did this car originally have a leather top (CF body code, I think) or plain top (C)?
    1 point
  29. A cloth cover will keep off dust, a plastic sheet will create rust like you won't believe. My mother's uncle bought a 64 Chrysler new and kept it in a dirt floor garage on the farm, it was always covered with bed sheets when he wasn't using it. The paint job was perfect when he died 30 years later.
    1 point
  30. This is a 1927 Buick '' Godess '' radiator cap ( 1 year only ) supplied on Master models and optional on Standard models. And this is the 1 year only 1928 Buick ''goddess '' radiator cap. They do turn up on ebay often and depending on condition tend to sell at a high price. Buick '' Flying Lady '' mascots refer to the 1933/34 and 35 mascots.
    1 point
  31. Anyone have any idea what car this is from? I think it's a tail light?
    1 point
  32. I would be happy to do that. There are 318 curves in 11 miles. Most of them are really tight turns. People who like to go fast like it because In that 11 miles there are no roads coming in from the side to worry about. Just curves. I have been there many times and I always enjoy it. Here is a link to my latest adventure on the Tail of the Dragon.
    1 point
  33. If you will open the document that I posted in post 12 and scroll down to page 14 of the publication, the reprint from the Fisher Body Manual explains the three methods that they used.
    1 point
  34. A number of years ago a local guy couldn't sell a hamburger for $3.50 so he raised the price to $6.50 and everyone thought it must be really good to demand that kind of price. He sold a bunch of them. Not supply and demand, but perception. Supply and demand probably don't follow the rules when you're dealing with emotions and hobbies.
    1 point
  35. FYI: YOUR CAR ALSO REQUIRES POSITIVE GROUND SPARK PLUGS.
    1 point
  36. The post above is correct. The devastation being reported is accurate according to our club members in PR. It is as serious as can be with people enduring a lot of hardship. Many are doing their best to come over to the mainland but flights are difficult as well and if anyone has seen the views of the airport they will understand. Our meet this year is now in serious jeopardy which is small potatoes compared to the real issues this Island faces. It's entire character may change due to the devastation and it will be years before they recover. Our prayers and thoughts go out to everyone in PR and especially to our close friends in the region. Hopefully, all agencies of our government will be successful in coming to the aid of all of the recent disasters. It will be a big job but America has shown the will to rebound before and I pray we do that again.
    1 point
  37. The VERY FIRST thing you need to do is buy a 1956 Buick shop manual. Then you need to spend some time reading it. Then you need to either perform the diagnostic tests or find someone who will. We can help answer some of your specific questions but you need to have some basic knowledge before you can even ask meaningful questions. Your reverse problem can range from a simple adjustment, to deteriorated mounts, to a reverse band strut failure, to an internal component failure. Visit EBay, buy the book, perform the tests. A preemptive tear down should be your last choice.......................Bob
    1 point
  38. I guess what confuses most of us hobbyists on this issue is that your desciptive terms don't match the original names used to describe the patterns in the factory reference materials. After seeing quite a few original cars, I have a good idea of what it is supposed to look like, despite some fading over the last 79 years, and think that I can do a decent job of replicating it myself, but if I was going to pay a professional to do it, I would need for the professional to show me a photo of what it was going to look like, because of the different terminology used to describe the different patterns by the different professionals.
    1 point
  39. Sorry if I came off as saying Every and All 38 Buicks had those patterns. It was just a quick post to let people know they can get their car back to an original pattern and finish. I was working on a 38 when I read this post and posted too fast I guess. Cars could come through with almost any pattern. We have seen some odd stuff in the past 20 Years of Woodgraining. Some cars changed in the middle of year so you need the build date if the car has no traces of woodgrain left. I believe Evan said there are a few exceptions in the custom made plate section of the plate patterns video when referring to the Chevron Plate for the 37. Just letting people know you don't need to buy every plate or pattern if you are getting into woodgraining. When we do a restoration or make plates for our customers we work with our customers to find the right pattern for their cars. With the help of the owners of the cars, forums like this and finding traces of original woodgraining on the parts we can get the finish done or make a plate so you can get it done. We have been collection interior parts since we started 20 years ago so we can replicate factory patterns and handled many thousands of parts to examine for patterns in our restoration projects. If your car does not have a Butt walnut finish than what does it have? That would help more than saying you are wrong about the patterns used. I know how bad things get picked apart and dissected online. It's just the internet Jdee Woodgraining The Lost Art Is free to watch online. There is a Finding Patterns Video.
    1 point
  40. one owner, non smoker. You have to wonder what the owner might have bought in 1980 to push that old vette outside. Chevrolet Luv maybe?
    1 point
  41. I just purchased the cast-iron and 12 ft doors store front of the 1800s Ellis machine shop and tons of pre- 1914 machines in memphis Tenn in the last 3mouths most have been sandblasted primed and painted and polished and clear coat and have install in the halls of the marathon factory . we finished up installing 240ft of lineshaft and hooked up most the belts to the machines .The plan with the machine shop front is to build a new shop using old bricks and to ellis front on it on a lot I have in the village 2 story will look like the shop does now. They are going to demo the old shop in the next mouth or so ,made a deal with the demo company hope the don't break up the cast-iron columns.
    1 point
  42. Marathon man - it is people like you with the foresight and genuine historic interest in preservation that make all of us who not only collect cars but preserve and write about history of all topics (I am the local village historian for the village I live in and have done a book on its history) of history proud to know that there are others like us out there. It takes a lot of persistence, being viewed as a "kook" or crazy to most , but is something that we do. We seek no recognition for what we do most of the time but just take extreme personal satisfaction knowing that when we are dust and forgotten the structure, cars, history we saved and shared will be there for generations. My hat is off to you. thank you for sharing this with all of us. Walt Gosden
    1 point
  43. I like the look of nice, clean tires. No extra polishes or cleaners here.
    1 point
  44. I do have a specification and adjustment manual and follow it to the tee
    1 point
  45. I don't think horns care if they're positive or negative ground
    1 point
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