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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    So far I have 29 of the lights installed and I have them wired into switches. It's been a slow go working near the roof of this hot building. The lights are very bright and I'm happy with them. There are 6, 20 amp circuits just for the lights; all of them burning will draw 81 amps. As such, I will install three more fixtures, evenly spaced and down the middle of the building for "minimum" lighting. I don't want to pay for 81 Amps of lighting. I installed openers on all 4 overhead doors and now working on a gutter down the front of the building. It's been a slow go doing this solo but I'm steady.
  2. 5 points
    I am pleased to announce that the new president of the BCA is................... Alan Oldfield! Congratulations Alan! Brian Clark (me) is the new VP John DiFiore has graciously relented and will serve another term as our esteemed Secretary (and unofficial sergeant at arms). Thanks John!
  3. 5 points
    Carter used both 3x48 and 4x40 for choke butterfly screws, but the odds are on 3x48. To get the old screw out, drill a small top through from the HEAD side. Then, using a dull drill bit, drill in from the head side. Generally, the dull bit will jam in the screw, and spin it out. Don't try to upset the screw as was done by the factory. One drop of BLUE Loctite on the screw threads (and yes, I have the factory tool, but still use the Loctite). Jon.
  4. 5 points
    Went out and eyeballed, and learned about, Buicks. Here are my pics -
  5. 4 points
  6. 3 points
    If you are able to look at the car you can determine the original color of the top. There is a label in the trunk near the spare tire. It is located at about the 3 o'clock position. It is called the Service Parts Identification Label. You may need to pull back the carpet to expose the label. Three digit codes identify the paint used on your Reatta as well as the other features and options your Reatta had when it was built. CONVERTIBLE TOP COLOR CODES 19T - BLACK CLOTH 28T - BLUE CLOTH 11T - WHITE 40T - WHITE 41T - BLACK VINYL 58T - SADDLE
  7. 3 points
    I would have felt right at home it seems.
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    It was. Time to give the shine a try.... I was warned about the strawberries though.
  10. 3 points
    Of course it's still edible !!!! Spam and c-rations, no expiration. looked like fun guys !!
  11. 3 points
    So.......Rain,rain,rain. It finally cleared up around noon today for a bit. Left work early, grabbed the trailer, loaded the Buick and headed East. I no sooner got out of town and it started raining at home. I must have stayed ahead of it! Sunny skies with some clouds all the way to the upholstery shop. Unloaded the car and went over everything with them. Left the car in very good hands. The guys name is even Angel! Downpoured on me 1/2 way back home until I pulled into town. Traffic slowed to 15-20 mph the rain was so hard. Glad the convertible made it safe,sound and dry! Matt
  12. 3 points
  13. 2 points
    I am just starting to get acquainted with my 1929 Sedan. It was apparently restored or at least assembled in the early 1980's and used lightly then parked. I have been reading the forums here and surfing on line to try to determine exactly what I have. My intention at this point is not to do a full period correct restore but to get what I have in good running condition and enjoy it. I am far enough in to have a few questions for those with experience. Some of the numbers and options just don't add up. First off the wire wheels, I have seen that these were possibly an option but not sure? Next into the engine bay. The car has the vacuum fuel pump however it appears to have been modified years ago with a float and electric switch. I am guessing that someone utilized an electric fuel pump. That however is not what puzzles me. The car has a mechanical fuel pump. This does not seem to jive with the year of the car ....the motor has a U2 serial number which I think designates Canadian built 1929 so what year did the mechanical pumps become an option? The rad lines also seem a bit different than what I have seen on other posts. Bottom line is going through what looks like homemade adaptors into the water pump at the front of the block. The side port is there however the generator blocks where the hose would go? I gave it fresh oil and redid the ignition components and rebuilt the `tractor' carb and the car actually runs quite well so again I don't intend on changing lots just wanting to know what I am working on prior to getting manuals etc. I will add some motor pictures later today if that helps...
  14. 2 points
    I'm in the process of converting all my third party Photobucket pix on this thread. If some photos disappear, never fear, I'll get them back. Everything should be good past page 38, but there may be a temporary problem with photos earlier than that - if anyone is actually bothering to still read my posts from two years ago.
  15. 2 points
    We recently organized the Aussie ROA Meet and I had a lot of fun doing some sketches. It took me a long time to get the right amount of distortion and the wheels were difficult but I learned I can do it. Lucky no one had to pay me by the hour We used this for T-shirts and logos for the meet.
  16. 2 points
    Pete, Your pictures warmed my little heart. All those rear shots reminded me of my friend John Utz, long time editor of The Flying Lady Magazine. Shortly before he passed away, we had lunch in a little diner and ended up in his garage office going through his files, over 50 years worth. He had pictures and knew every chassis number. As he bought out more and more pictures he told me "Look, another grille! Everyone knows what the front looks like. I used to beg for rear shots of the cars. So few are ever taken." That was a while back. It is fun to have my memory jogged. Great pictures. I almost grabbed a flight out there Thursday morning. GRRRRRRRR. Bernie
  17. 2 points
    Update: Car located but not thief. http://www.statesmanjournal.com/story/news/2017/07/08/vintage-mustang-returned-lyons-owner-after-facebook-post-goes-viral/459879001/
  18. 2 points
    Son, you're gonna drive me to drinkin' if you don't stop driving that hot rod Lincoln.
  19. 2 points
    I resent you saying that it was a "boxed wine". Not true!! It was a "fine wine" in a bottle called Fish Eye. Nice bottle at the least possible cost. Right off the wine department shelf at Kroger.
  20. 2 points
    Aside from unloading my "new" second-hand jointer and proof reading an article, I managed to spend most of the day in the shop. Having set the timing gear blanks up for milling last night, I started on them. I'm not thrilled with my clamps – although they actually didn't create any problem – I suspect because the plug in the center of the gear prevented any side-to-side movement. All they had to do was hold the piece down. This job created a lot of chips... hot ones, a few of which found their way down my shirt. It's not very pleasant but comes with the territory. The relief is .250 deep on each side. I made four passes at .050, then two at .020 and the last at .010. There are some little chatter marks around the edges, not as apparent in real life as in this photo. The clamps held fine but there was a very small amount of vibration in the rotary table. None of this is critical, or even important, and there is a good chance the marks will polish out easily. I finished milling all three gears by the end of the day. The center section now gets turned. The gear face is 7/8" but the centers will be .375 thick. I'll do the next step in the lathe with the blank mounted on a face plate. I've had lathes for 40 years now, all of which had a face plate and this will be the first time I've actually used one.
  21. 2 points
    I'd eat Spam for 3 meals a day before I'd touch Ramen noodles… Don't get me wrong, I love Ramen noodles, but the nutritional value is terrible!
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Soooo close -- next time you should go for the 'century' (if you can do so safely)...
  26. 2 points
  27. 1 point
    Who in 1925 had his engineers design an engine with 7 main bearings , force feed lude to the mains, rods and camshaft. Charles Nash He called the new car Ajax.
  28. 1 point
    Your looking at it backwards. The Chinese are not getting cancer DESPITE clean energy and smog (and you seem to be implying that clean energy is bogus), they are switching to clean energy BECAUSE there is smog and cancer. It is easy to dismiss them as not caring about life but when quality of life gets too bad governments know that the peasants rise up. Besides it seems that China is going to take the lead in the world now that we're falling apart and part of that is clean energy so they dont have to rely on the middle east for oil or the US for natural gas and coal. Meanwhile were trying to make coal a thing again while China focuses on cuttingedge technology. Why not bring back the horse and buggy while we're at it. Its backwards thinking like this that has dug this hole for ourselves. Just because a technology isnt perfect now doesnt mean it wont be later and ignoring that tranisional period means were that much farther behind later. What if we sat out the early days of the automobile and only decided to get in after WWII? Since cars were not perfect in those early years why did we even bother?
  29. 1 point
    When you can put 17,000+ pictures on a 4GB thumb drive and still have space left why would you not store your own photos and then you have complete control over them.
  30. 1 point
    You might find this useful: What should I check when buying a Reatta?
  31. 1 point
    Estate Sales! Going to an Estate Sale after the passing of a long time friend or acquaintence gives one time for an introspective realization of our individual part in remembering History. II knew Roy Berrens for many years when he was building new wood wheels for our vintage cars. I recall visiting his shop and was in awe of a gynormous drill press hanging over a large table for boring the hub hole in the absolute center and perpendicular with the rim of a wheel. I also recall a time when visiting the Harrah Car collection in Reno and when I mentioned I was from Tacoma Wash I was ushered back to the shop where restorations were in progress. I believe that was Roy turning out wood wheel spokes 2 at a time back to back on a pattern following lathe. Not exactly mass production but probably as close as possible at that time. The Sale was attended by many enthusiasts. I found a few bits to add to my 'stash'. So all of you continue going to Estate Sales while you can and find new (old) things to add to your personal collection. Also remember we are all present day custodians of History for the benefit of future generations. Enjoy!
  32. 1 point
    Your question was answered by 2seater on Ronnie's site. 2seater has rebuilt a number of our engines. What he told you was correct. Many of us [including 2seater] on Ronnie's site are also here. This site and Ronnie's are the two best Reatta sites around, so what you get told on one will be what you get told on the other.
  33. 1 point
    I think the main difference in the "carb" screws and "hardware store" screws is the height of the head of the screw. The "carb" screw will have a flatter head for better air flow across it, compared to the high done of the hardware store screws. BUT until a better alternative can be obtained, the hardware screws can work good enough to not immobilize the car. PLUS the blue Loctite rather than the earlier "staking" operation. NTX5467
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    I don't want to rain on anyone's parade or sound like a purist/elitist but most kits are grotesque and this is no exception. The original, on the other hand, is spectacular.
  36. 1 point
    Thanks for the pictures. Just what I needed.
  37. 1 point
    Whew -- you had me worried!
  38. 1 point
    Hi Dyna flash maybe , I bought from Chicago , last owner lived in Illinois and had car back in 2006 earliest receipt I have , but think may be earlier because that was for interior and reckon beginning of Restoration must have been couple of years before. photo attached.
  39. 1 point
    (NOT to try to ply y'all with "spirits" . . . . but if y'all will come down for our Regional, there might be some Lawnmower Beer in attendance (a local product). A prior attempt at the famous "Milk and Cookies" was not well-received, nor the humor in that, either. Not sure how well Spam ages in the can? No desires to find out, either. At least it'll have a smoooooth and cool ride to TX! NTX5467
  40. 1 point
    Haven't posted in a while. Everyday life has gotten it the way and slowed my work done some but I've still been making progress. Needed to put a new fuel tank in my restored 83' Blazer and with a persistent red brake light, a master cylinder yesterday. Tank leak is fixed and the brake issue is fixed. Now just to pull the great running 6.2 and put another one in it. Yup, it runs great but one day just decided to have blow by into the cooling system. Could fix the head gasket but it also has a main seal leak the appeared after it was all assembled and driving a few months. The motor was not touched during the restoration because it's much easier to just replace them when a problem arises. I have another motor to go in with 9K on it's rebuild. I've been assembling my customer's 31' Chevy chassis and it's almost ready to be test driven. The chassis was completely disassembled and everything painted. New king pins and brake parts were added during reassembly. I had the tank and radiator flushed which yielded a bad radiator. A call to Lee at the Brassworks and I have a new replacement on the way. Still need to paint the tank and hopefully get the re-chromed radiator shroud back from the plater soon. Now, back to the Olds. Cut out the small area of rot on the bottom edge of the passenger side cowling and need to weld the patch in. Started working on the doors. While they're not bad, they're not great either with both needing some wood work and some small metal work. The passenger door has a few pin holes at the bottom up about an 1" and the driver's door will need a new door bottom which I will bend and cut up to match. Both needed new regulator boards and the driver's door needs a whole new lower board and some of the latch side frame replaced. I've decided to use the high quality ash plywood for the regulator boards. All these cars originally used solid ash boards glued together and every car I've worked on has had numerous issues with the regulator boards being cracked, split, warped, or rotted. One of the big reasons for these problems is that the boards are inletted quite extensively and in many places are quite thin. Badly worn and sticky window channels help to put a lot of pressure on the regulator and the board it's mounted to. The result is a cracked and broken board. The ply wood should help with strength and less warping. Both have been made and finished with my green copper naphthalene like the originals were. I also cut out the rotten section of the latch side wood framing and made up a new one. I will wait to glue and install it until I have bent up and installed the new door bottom. I've mounted the regulator boards with the latches and window regulators on them to test fit. All looks good so far. Used the Roto-Zip with circle attachment to route the regulator reliefs and a small Ridgid round base trim router to do the majority of the inletting. Used the table saw and dado head for the rabbets and some of the larger inletted areas. No special tools needed and going slow while taking good measurements will yield anyone a good regulator board.
  41. 1 point
    I know but as I prefaced "Edited for content...." This is a Buick forum; got to stay on topic!
  42. 1 point
    Resident 4-speed gear mixer? And esteemed Board of Directors member!
  43. 1 point
    My Dad hammered it into me to always, ALWAYS, ALWAYS shut off the gas on the tractor or whatever else and it stuck....... For some reason the Deere Schebler carburetors are notorious for not holding back gas when not running....... So much so that Deere started putting oil pressure activated shut-offs in 1952.
  44. 1 point
    Having recently replaced my Reatta's HB (failed due to backfire) and this being the 2nd one in the last few years (1st was to replace the factory install), I can state that the HBs sold for the 89 Reatta at Autozone do NOT have the 3 bolt holes for a puller but I had NO issues with pulling either off the crank once the bolt was removed (simply pulling with both hands was all it took). It was interesting the GM installed a splash guard on the "sedan" installation of the pre-series1 3800 but not on the Reatta. I found the OEM crank bolt as well as aftermarket replacement to be 24mm heads. I used that same method of sensor alignment as the guy detailed.
  45. 1 point
    Friday July 7, 2017: Update on the body work / paint: It seems with the 4th of July landing on a Tuesday, the week was sort of... well ... out of sorts. A little slow. I disassembled the heater unit, sanded it down smooth and primed both it and the steering column. I did find a really nice brown paint which John will spray tomorrow morning. I'll update those photos tomorrow when that job is done. But, heres the latest update on the body work and the paint work. The driver's side door sill was fiberglassed, and a patch made for the rear fender bolt. That side is sanded out smooth, the filler and the self-etching primer applied. Then Bob moved on to the passenger's side, which had considerably more damage. I'll let the photos talk the rest of the way! Here was the Driver's side with the fiberglass filled in the pinholes along the bottom of the door sill. Now the driver's side is sanded out, filler applied and sanded out smooth. The self-etching prime coat is applied. The driver's side all in prime. On to the passenger's side : Rear aspect of the quarter panel showing the rot-through, especially where the fender cinch nut is located. The area is masked out, trying to preserve the original body detail along the bumped out molded area. A template is fabricated, noting the center of the cinch nut and the slots for attaching same. After the rotted metal is removed, the patch is spot welded into position. This is not the final weld. Now on to the lower quarter section: Here is the lower quarter section before. Obvious rot through here. Before anything is cut or removed, Bob creates a template that fits within the original body moldings and follows the contours and curvatures of the original sheet metal. Over to the bench to finalize the lower curvature utilizing a steel pipe and some small hammers. Once satisfied with the fit, the body is then marked and cut. Using that pneumatic "tin snips", the rotted section is removed, taking a margin of healthy tissue with it. (He will repair all that back damage as well) Here you see the old and new. Here the patch panel is lined up and getting ready to be tack welded into position. Unfortunately, someone hit a utility pole and all the power went out and the welder was out of commission. 3M Seam Sealer. Used in some of the body seams at the lower door openings, and in the trunk along the back well. He uses it in places like this. You can see it in the first few photos as well. Have a great night out there! Gary
  46. 1 point
    hello frank I think that the head is actually being held on by the broken studs,sometimes they twist and gett stuck in the holes when they brake,i know you've probable already checked,but if the bolts ate 3/8 bolts I would try and center punch them as close to center as possible measure how far down the bolts are and try and step drill them starting with 1/8 and moving up slowly to 3/8 or 7/17 what ever they are, if you could leave some pressure on it as your drilling the studs it may help to free them,also if you have a reversible drill and some lt hand drill bits it may help, dave
  47. 1 point
    What helped me keep a relatively consistent heat was installing a 180 degree thermostat in my 264. When I had the 160 degree themostat the heat would steady climb to hot at highway speeds. I'm also of mind that highway speeds air does not flow well through the radiator. Like a buffer zone of dead air is created at speed. Could be out of my head on that. Possible some rusty scale in the water jackets?
  48. 1 point
    I second the air hammer idea..run the nuts back on the studs and apply air hammer judiciously...amazing what a few vibes will do ! Cheers,Pat
  49. 1 point
    First picture is the old ones other picture is new ones I made plus original radiator pan/ shield
  50. 1 point