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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2017 in all areas

  1. So far I have 29 of the lights installed and I have them wired into switches. It's been a slow go working near the roof of this hot building. The lights are very bright and I'm happy with them. There are 6, 20 amp circuits just for the lights; all of them burning will draw 81 amps. As such, I will install three more fixtures, evenly spaced and down the middle of the building for "minimum" lighting. I don't want to pay for 81 Amps of lighting. I installed openers on all 4 overhead doors and now working on a gutter down the front of the building. It's been a slow go doing this solo but I'm steady.
    6 points
  2. I am pleased to announce that the new president of the BCA is................... Alan Oldfield! Congratulations Alan! Brian Clark (me) is the new VP John DiFiore has graciously relented and will serve another term as our esteemed Secretary (and unofficial sergeant at arms). Thanks John!
    5 points
  3. Carter used both 3x48 and 4x40 for choke butterfly screws, but the odds are on 3x48. To get the old screw out, drill a small top through from the HEAD side. Then, using a dull drill bit, drill in from the head side. Generally, the dull bit will jam in the screw, and spin it out. Don't try to upset the screw as was done by the factory. One drop of BLUE Loctite on the screw threads (and yes, I have the factory tool, but still use the Loctite). Jon.
    5 points
  4. Went out and eyeballed, and learned about, Buicks. Here are my pics -
    5 points
  5. If you are able to look at the car you can determine the original color of the top. There is a label in the trunk near the spare tire. It is located at about the 3 o'clock position. It is called the Service Parts Identification Label. You may need to pull back the carpet to expose the label. Three digit codes identify the paint used on your Reatta as well as the other features and options your Reatta had when it was built. CONVERTIBLE TOP COLOR CODES 19T - BLACK CLOTH 28T - BLUE CLOTH 11T - WHITE 40T - WHITE 41T - BLACK VINYL 58T - SADDLE
    3 points
  6. I would have felt right at home it seems.
    3 points
  7. It was. Time to give the shine a try.... I was warned about the strawberries though.
    3 points
  8. Of course it's still edible !!!! Spam and c-rations, no expiration. looked like fun guys !!
    3 points
  9. So.......Rain,rain,rain. It finally cleared up around noon today for a bit. Left work early, grabbed the trailer, loaded the Buick and headed East. I no sooner got out of town and it started raining at home. I must have stayed ahead of it! Sunny skies with some clouds all the way to the upholstery shop. Unloaded the car and went over everything with them. Left the car in very good hands. The guys name is even Angel! Downpoured on me 1/2 way back home until I pulled into town. Traffic slowed to 15-20 mph the rain was so hard. Glad the convertible made it safe,sound and dry! Matt
    3 points
  10. I am just starting to get acquainted with my 1929 Sedan. It was apparently restored or at least assembled in the early 1980's and used lightly then parked. I have been reading the forums here and surfing on line to try to determine exactly what I have. My intention at this point is not to do a full period correct restore but to get what I have in good running condition and enjoy it. I am far enough in to have a few questions for those with experience. Some of the numbers and options just don't add up. First off the wire wheels, I have seen that these were possibly an option but not sure? Next into the engine bay. The car has the vacuum fuel pump however it appears to have been modified years ago with a float and electric switch. I am guessing that someone utilized an electric fuel pump. That however is not what puzzles me. The car has a mechanical fuel pump. This does not seem to jive with the year of the car ....the motor has a U2 serial number which I think designates Canadian built 1929 so what year did the mechanical pumps become an option? The rad lines also seem a bit different than what I have seen on other posts. Bottom line is going through what looks like homemade adaptors into the water pump at the front of the block. The side port is there however the generator blocks where the hose would go? I gave it fresh oil and redid the ignition components and rebuilt the `tractor' carb and the car actually runs quite well so again I don't intend on changing lots just wanting to know what I am working on prior to getting manuals etc. I will add some motor pictures later today if that helps...
    2 points
  11. I'm in the process of converting all my third party Photobucket pix on this thread. If some photos disappear, never fear, I'll get them back. Everything should be good past page 38, but there may be a temporary problem with photos earlier than that - if anyone is actually bothering to still read my posts from two years ago.
    2 points
  12. We recently organized the Aussie ROA Meet and I had a lot of fun doing some sketches. It took me a long time to get the right amount of distortion and the wheels were difficult but I learned I can do it. Lucky no one had to pay me by the hour We used this for T-shirts and logos for the meet.
    2 points
  13. Pete, Your pictures warmed my little heart. All those rear shots reminded me of my friend John Utz, long time editor of The Flying Lady Magazine. Shortly before he passed away, we had lunch in a little diner and ended up in his garage office going through his files, over 50 years worth. He had pictures and knew every chassis number. As he bought out more and more pictures he told me "Look, another grille! Everyone knows what the front looks like. I used to beg for rear shots of the cars. So few are ever taken." That was a while back. It is fun to have my memory jogged. Great pictures. I almost grabbed a flight out there Thursday morning. GRRRRRRRR. Bernie
    2 points
  14. Update: Car located but not thief. http://www.statesmanjournal.com/story/news/2017/07/08/vintage-mustang-returned-lyons-owner-after-facebook-post-goes-viral/459879001/
    2 points
  15. Son, you're gonna drive me to drinkin' if you don't stop driving that hot rod Lincoln.
    2 points
  16. I resent you saying that it was a "boxed wine". Not true!! It was a "fine wine" in a bottle called Fish Eye. Nice bottle at the least possible cost. Right off the wine department shelf at Kroger.
    2 points
  17. Aside from unloading my "new" second-hand jointer and proof reading an article, I managed to spend most of the day in the shop. Having set the timing gear blanks up for milling last night, I started on them. I'm not thrilled with my clamps – although they actually didn't create any problem – I suspect because the plug in the center of the gear prevented any side-to-side movement. All they had to do was hold the piece down. This job created a lot of chips... hot ones, a few of which found their way down my shirt. It's not very pleasant but comes with the territory. The relief is .250 deep on each side. I made four passes at .050, then two at .020 and the last at .010. There are some little chatter marks around the edges, not as apparent in real life as in this photo. The clamps held fine but there was a very small amount of vibration in the rotary table. None of this is critical, or even important, and there is a good chance the marks will polish out easily. I finished milling all three gears by the end of the day. The center section now gets turned. The gear face is 7/8" but the centers will be .375 thick. I'll do the next step in the lathe with the blank mounted on a face plate. I've had lathes for 40 years now, all of which had a face plate and this will be the first time I've actually used one.
    2 points
  18. I'd eat Spam for 3 meals a day before I'd touch Ramen noodles… Don't get me wrong, I love Ramen noodles, but the nutritional value is terrible!
    2 points
  19. 2 points
  20. Soooo close -- next time you should go for the 'century' (if you can do so safely)...
    2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. Im so excited for our Son to show his Grand National this year at Hershey. Have the hotel just waiting for registration. Its so great to see a 23 year old hit head first into our hobby. Refreshing
    1 point
  23. Who in 1925 had his engineers design an engine with 7 main bearings , force feed lude to the mains, rods and camshaft. Charles Nash He called the new car Ajax.
    1 point
  24. Estate Sales! Going to an Estate Sale after the passing of a long time friend or acquaintence gives one time for an introspective realization of our individual part in remembering History. II knew Roy Berrens for many years when he was building new wood wheels for our vintage cars. I recall visiting his shop and was in awe of a gynormous drill press hanging over a large table for boring the hub hole in the absolute center and perpendicular with the rim of a wheel. I also recall a time when visiting the Harrah Car collection in Reno and when I mentioned I was from Tacoma Wash I was ushered back to the shop where restorations were in progress. I believe that was Roy turning out wood wheel spokes 2 at a time back to back on a pattern following lathe. Not exactly mass production but probably as close as possible at that time. The Sale was attended by many enthusiasts. I found a few bits to add to my 'stash'. So all of you continue going to Estate Sales while you can and find new (old) things to add to your personal collection. Also remember we are all present day custodians of History for the benefit of future generations. Enjoy!
    1 point
  25. 1971 Ford LTD....
    1 point
  26. Your question was answered by 2seater on Ronnie's site. 2seater has rebuilt a number of our engines. What he told you was correct. Many of us [including 2seater] on Ronnie's site are also here. This site and Ronnie's are the two best Reatta sites around, so what you get told on one will be what you get told on the other.
    1 point
  27. I think the main difference in the "carb" screws and "hardware store" screws is the height of the head of the screw. The "carb" screw will have a flatter head for better air flow across it, compared to the high done of the hardware store screws. BUT until a better alternative can be obtained, the hardware screws can work good enough to not immobilize the car. PLUS the blue Loctite rather than the earlier "staking" operation. NTX5467
    1 point
  28. I don't want to rain on anyone's parade or sound like a purist/elitist but most kits are grotesque and this is no exception. The original, on the other hand, is spectacular.
    1 point
  29. Thanks for the pictures. Just what I needed.
    1 point
  30. Whew -- you had me worried!
    1 point
  31. Hi Dyna flash maybe , I bought from Chicago , last owner lived in Illinois and had car back in 2006 earliest receipt I have , but think may be earlier because that was for interior and reckon beginning of Restoration must have been couple of years before. photo attached.
    1 point
  32. I would stick to the old 30wt non detergent its got it this far in life
    1 point
  33. Haven't posted in a while. Everyday life has gotten it the way and slowed my work done some but I've still been making progress. Needed to put a new fuel tank in my restored 83' Blazer and with a persistent red brake light, a master cylinder yesterday. Tank leak is fixed and the brake issue is fixed. Now just to pull the great running 6.2 and put another one in it. Yup, it runs great but one day just decided to have blow by into the cooling system. Could fix the head gasket but it also has a main seal leak the appeared after it was all assembled and driving a few months. The motor was not touched during the restoration because it's much easier to just replace them when a problem arises. I have another motor to go in with 9K on it's rebuild. I've been assembling my customer's 31' Chevy chassis and it's almost ready to be test driven. The chassis was completely disassembled and everything painted. New king pins and brake parts were added during reassembly. I had the tank and radiator flushed which yielded a bad radiator. A call to Lee at the Brassworks and I have a new replacement on the way. Still need to paint the tank and hopefully get the re-chromed radiator shroud back from the plater soon. Now, back to the Olds. Cut out the small area of rot on the bottom edge of the passenger side cowling and need to weld the patch in. Started working on the doors. While they're not bad, they're not great either with both needing some wood work and some small metal work. The passenger door has a few pin holes at the bottom up about an 1" and the driver's door will need a new door bottom which I will bend and cut up to match. Both needed new regulator boards and the driver's door needs a whole new lower board and some of the latch side frame replaced. I've decided to use the high quality ash plywood for the regulator boards. All these cars originally used solid ash boards glued together and every car I've worked on has had numerous issues with the regulator boards being cracked, split, warped, or rotted. One of the big reasons for these problems is that the boards are inletted quite extensively and in many places are quite thin. Badly worn and sticky window channels help to put a lot of pressure on the regulator and the board it's mounted to. The result is a cracked and broken board. The ply wood should help with strength and less warping. Both have been made and finished with my green copper naphthalene like the originals were. I also cut out the rotten section of the latch side wood framing and made up a new one. I will wait to glue and install it until I have bent up and installed the new door bottom. I've mounted the regulator boards with the latches and window regulators on them to test fit. All looks good so far. Used the Roto-Zip with circle attachment to route the regulator reliefs and a small Ridgid round base trim router to do the majority of the inletting. Used the table saw and dado head for the rabbets and some of the larger inletted areas. No special tools needed and going slow while taking good measurements will yield anyone a good regulator board.
    1 point
  34. Resident 4-speed gear mixer? And esteemed Board of Directors member!
    1 point
  35. Don't mind me, I'm just here for the show...
    1 point
  36. Thank you for the advice. Unfortunately the rings and pistons were just in a plastic tray with no included instructions. This is the difficulty of taking on a half finished project.
    1 point
  37. I have an interchange from National Service Data saying the DeSoto K had a Delco Remy system with starter 714-J. The K-1 engine, '29-30, had a North East starter model SBH6534. Would a DR starter fit? The 714-J became 714-Q in the De Soto CF and CK. 714-Q was also used in the Dodge DD and DC, Chrysler Six and CJ of 1930 and so on. A variant of the 714 (-L) was used in Chev 1929-32 and some DC models in 1934. 714-P was used in Chry 60 and some 70. 714-J and Q were in Ply U, and -Q in Ply 30-U, PA & PB. Other variants were used in other makes, such as Graham. Chiltons gives different info. The 1928 K used a DR system and the armature was used in 60 models of vehicle. The North East armatures (different 1929 and 1929-30) were used only in that vehicle. The armature in the CK Delco system was used in 49 vehicles. They only give armature and Bendix spring (if used) interchanges.
    1 point
  38. Barry Even though we have never met, I had followed your projects over the years. I always admired your work and the enthusiasm you had for the hobby. It's amazing that I was just thinking that I had not seen anything from you in a while. Thanks for for posting an update to your situation. I hope you can resolve any remaining issues and find enjoyment in future endeavors. Thanks for all of your earlier posts. Again, I really enjoyed your projects. Kevin
    1 point
  39. My Dad hammered it into me to always, ALWAYS, ALWAYS shut off the gas on the tractor or whatever else and it stuck....... For some reason the Deere Schebler carburetors are notorious for not holding back gas when not running....... So much so that Deere started putting oil pressure activated shut-offs in 1952.
    1 point
  40. Friday July 7, 2017: Update on the body work / paint: It seems with the 4th of July landing on a Tuesday, the week was sort of... well ... out of sorts. A little slow. I disassembled the heater unit, sanded it down smooth and primed both it and the steering column. I did find a really nice brown paint which John will spray tomorrow morning. I'll update those photos tomorrow when that job is done. But, heres the latest update on the body work and the paint work. The driver's side door sill was fiberglassed, and a patch made for the rear fender bolt. That side is sanded out smooth, the filler and the self-etching primer applied. Then Bob moved on to the passenger's side, which had considerably more damage. I'll let the photos talk the rest of the way! Here was the Driver's side with the fiberglass filled in the pinholes along the bottom of the door sill. Now the driver's side is sanded out, filler applied and sanded out smooth. The self-etching prime coat is applied. The driver's side all in prime. On to the passenger's side : Rear aspect of the quarter panel showing the rot-through, especially where the fender cinch nut is located. The area is masked out, trying to preserve the original body detail along the bumped out molded area. A template is fabricated, noting the center of the cinch nut and the slots for attaching same. After the rotted metal is removed, the patch is spot welded into position. This is not the final weld. Now on to the lower quarter section: Here is the lower quarter section before. Obvious rot through here. Before anything is cut or removed, Bob creates a template that fits within the original body moldings and follows the contours and curvatures of the original sheet metal. Over to the bench to finalize the lower curvature utilizing a steel pipe and some small hammers. Once satisfied with the fit, the body is then marked and cut. Using that pneumatic "tin snips", the rotted section is removed, taking a margin of healthy tissue with it. (He will repair all that back damage as well) Here you see the old and new. Here the patch panel is lined up and getting ready to be tack welded into position. Unfortunately, someone hit a utility pole and all the power went out and the welder was out of commission. 3M Seam Sealer. Used in some of the body seams at the lower door openings, and in the trunk along the back well. He uses it in places like this. You can see it in the first few photos as well. Have a great night out there! Gary
    1 point
  41. EmTee, In person the upholstery is excellent. It has been redone. If you look at the picture where the seat is down you can see the original metallic color on the back of the chair in contrast to the new. When they redid it, they decided to match more like the steering wheel and not metallic. I actually really like it, but if someone wanted to put it back to factory original, I am sure they could get a dye to match the original factory. I have attached a picture I found online of the original metallic green interior. Price is a negotiation, but I'm not trying to get top dollar.
    1 point
  42. Drain the oil out and hang it upside down in an electrolysis tank. Leave it there for two or three weeks and clean the electrodes at least once a week. Given you've got all the core plugs out, it should do a bang up job of cleaning the inside of the head as well. On second thought... you wouldn't have to hang it. It could just be blocked up so that the water level was above the line between the block and the head. I'd make a tank and leave it in for a month... then try your spark plug pullers again although you should use several and space them out so that pulling pressure is along the entire surface, not just in a corner. My lathe when I started bring it back from the dead... it's not likely it is much more stuck than the compound and internal parts of this apron were after it had been out in the weather for 15 years.
    1 point
  43. No it wasn't "that inappropriate", but guys, in this, what I consider overly politically correct world of today we are lucky this thread still even exists, so hey, don't complain
    1 point
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