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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/08/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    So far I have 29 of the lights installed and I have them wired into switches. It's been a slow go working near the roof of this hot building. The lights are very bright and I'm happy with them. There are 6, 20 amp circuits just for the lights; all of them burning will draw 81 amps. As such, I will install three more fixtures, evenly spaced and down the middle of the building for "minimum" lighting. I don't want to pay for 81 Amps of lighting. I installed openers on all 4 overhead doors and now working on a gutter down the front of the building. It's been a slow go doing this solo but I'm steady.
  2. 5 points
    I am pleased to announce that the new president of the BCA is................... Alan Oldfield! Congratulations Alan! Brian Clark (me) is the new VP John DiFiore has graciously relented and will serve another term as our esteemed Secretary (and unofficial sergeant at arms). Thanks John!
  3. 5 points
    Carter used both 3x48 and 4x40 for choke butterfly screws, but the odds are on 3x48. To get the old screw out, drill a small top through from the HEAD side. Then, using a dull drill bit, drill in from the head side. Generally, the dull bit will jam in the screw, and spin it out. Don't try to upset the screw as was done by the factory. One drop of BLUE Loctite on the screw threads (and yes, I have the factory tool, but still use the Loctite). Jon.
  4. 5 points
    Went out and eyeballed, and learned about, Buicks. Here are my pics -
  5. 4 points
  6. 3 points
    If you are able to look at the car you can determine the original color of the top. There is a label in the trunk near the spare tire. It is located at about the 3 o'clock position. It is called the Service Parts Identification Label. You may need to pull back the carpet to expose the label. Three digit codes identify the paint used on your Reatta as well as the other features and options your Reatta had when it was built. CONVERTIBLE TOP COLOR CODES 19T - BLACK CLOTH 28T - BLUE CLOTH 11T - WHITE 40T - WHITE 41T - BLACK VINYL 58T - SADDLE
  7. 3 points
    I would have felt right at home it seems.
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    It was. Time to give the shine a try.... I was warned about the strawberries though.
  10. 3 points
    Of course it's still edible !!!! Spam and c-rations, no expiration. looked like fun guys !!
  11. 3 points
    So.......Rain,rain,rain. It finally cleared up around noon today for a bit. Left work early, grabbed the trailer, loaded the Buick and headed East. I no sooner got out of town and it started raining at home. I must have stayed ahead of it! Sunny skies with some clouds all the way to the upholstery shop. Unloaded the car and went over everything with them. Left the car in very good hands. The guys name is even Angel! Downpoured on me 1/2 way back home until I pulled into town. Traffic slowed to 15-20 mph the rain was so hard. Glad the convertible made it safe,sound and dry! Matt
  12. 3 points
  13. 2 points
    I am just starting to get acquainted with my 1929 Sedan. It was apparently restored or at least assembled in the early 1980's and used lightly then parked. I have been reading the forums here and surfing on line to try to determine exactly what I have. My intention at this point is not to do a full period correct restore but to get what I have in good running condition and enjoy it. I am far enough in to have a few questions for those with experience. Some of the numbers and options just don't add up. First off the wire wheels, I have seen that these were possibly an option but not sure? Next into the engine bay. The car has the vacuum fuel pump however it appears to have been modified years ago with a float and electric switch. I am guessing that someone utilized an electric fuel pump. That however is not what puzzles me. The car has a mechanical fuel pump. This does not seem to jive with the year of the car ....the motor has a U2 serial number which I think designates Canadian built 1929 so what year did the mechanical pumps become an option? The rad lines also seem a bit different than what I have seen on other posts. Bottom line is going through what looks like homemade adaptors into the water pump at the front of the block. The side port is there however the generator blocks where the hose would go? I gave it fresh oil and redid the ignition components and rebuilt the `tractor' carb and the car actually runs quite well so again I don't intend on changing lots just wanting to know what I am working on prior to getting manuals etc. I will add some motor pictures later today if that helps...
  14. 2 points
    I'm in the process of converting all my third party Photobucket pix on this thread. If some photos disappear, never fear, I'll get them back. Everything should be good past page 38, but there may be a temporary problem with photos earlier than that - if anyone is actually bothering to still read my posts from two years ago.
  15. 2 points
    We recently organized the Aussie ROA Meet and I had a lot of fun doing some sketches. It took me a long time to get the right amount of distortion and the wheels were difficult but I learned I can do it. Lucky no one had to pay me by the hour We used this for T-shirts and logos for the meet.
  16. 2 points
    Pete, Your pictures warmed my little heart. All those rear shots reminded me of my friend John Utz, long time editor of The Flying Lady Magazine. Shortly before he passed away, we had lunch in a little diner and ended up in his garage office going through his files, over 50 years worth. He had pictures and knew every chassis number. As he bought out more and more pictures he told me "Look, another grille! Everyone knows what the front looks like. I used to beg for rear shots of the cars. So few are ever taken." That was a while back. It is fun to have my memory jogged. Great pictures. I almost grabbed a flight out there Thursday morning. GRRRRRRRR. Bernie
  17. 2 points
    Update: Car located but not thief. http://www.statesmanjournal.com/story/news/2017/07/08/vintage-mustang-returned-lyons-owner-after-facebook-post-goes-viral/459879001/
  18. 2 points
    Son, you're gonna drive me to drinkin' if you don't stop driving that hot rod Lincoln.
  19. 2 points
    I resent you saying that it was a "boxed wine". Not true!! It was a "fine wine" in a bottle called Fish Eye. Nice bottle at the least possible cost. Right off the wine department shelf at Kroger.
  20. 2 points
    Aside from unloading my "new" second-hand jointer and proof reading an article, I managed to spend most of the day in the shop. Having set the timing gear blanks up for milling last night, I started on them. I'm not thrilled with my clamps – although they actually didn't create any problem – I suspect because the plug in the center of the gear prevented any side-to-side movement. All they had to do was hold the piece down. This job created a lot of chips... hot ones, a few of which found their way down my shirt. It's not very pleasant but comes with the territory. The relief is .250 deep on each side. I made four passes at .050, then two at .020 and the last at .010. There are some little chatter marks around the edges, not as apparent in real life as in this photo. The clamps held fine but there was a very small amount of vibration in the rotary table. None of this is critical, or even important, and there is a good chance the marks will polish out easily. I finished milling all three gears by the end of the day. The center section now gets turned. The gear face is 7/8" but the centers will be .375 thick. I'll do the next step in the lathe with the blank mounted on a face plate. I've had lathes for 40 years now, all of which had a face plate and this will be the first time I've actually used one.
  21. 2 points
    I'd eat Spam for 3 meals a day before I'd touch Ramen noodles… Don't get me wrong, I love Ramen noodles, but the nutritional value is terrible!
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Soooo close -- next time you should go for the 'century' (if you can do so safely)...
  26. 2 points
  27. 1 point
    I was tightening up my just-received rebuilt water pump and took notice of my hose clamps. I don't know if these 2 are anything special, but if they are and somebody needs them I'm o.k. with modern worm gear type and will gladly give these up. Let me know if you want them. They're both the same size - about 2".
  28. 1 point
    Who in 1925 had his engineers design an engine with 7 main bearings , force feed lude to the mains, rods and camshaft. Charles Nash He called the new car Ajax.
  29. 1 point
    Last Vlog of 2017 I will post more in the coming weeks.
  30. 1 point
    I will add I envy you, that is a very fine car. Get it running right and you will think you are driving a Rolls with an afterburner. The 440 engine, Torquflite trans, torsion bar suspension, optional disc brakes were all state of the art for the times. Gas mileage not so thrilling but not much you can do about it. If you do all the servicing to put it back in commission, in addition to new tires, get a set of premium shock absorbers and an alignment job and you will be amazed how much nicer it rides and drives than any new car. I am not kidding.
  31. 1 point
    Finally seems to be working correctly for me. Didn't do anything....it just started working again.
  32. 1 point
    You might find this useful: What should I check when buying a Reatta?
  33. 1 point
    1971 Ford LTD....
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Left hand drill bits are fantastic for this kind of job. Usually the piece spins out before the hole is completed.
  36. 1 point
    And remember, the Deere Schebler was one of the BETTER Scheblers!!!!! Jon.
  37. 1 point
    The 72 Tech specialist told me that the Buick red engine paint from Cars and or other vendors is fine for judging. The BCA rules do allow for differences in shades of color. If the BCA accepts that,, then any other venue should also accept it.
  38. 1 point
    And I will continue to pay the bills and bitch at people for spending money (sounds like what I do at home too).
  39. 1 point
    Only saw a couple 54s. Hope to see more tomorrow!
  40. 1 point
    Barry, I was good to see your post. I too have been wondering on your condition and ability to get around. If you still have my number, give me a call and we get together again for lunch and talk cars or what ever. If not, let me know and I can call you when it is convenient for you. Larry
  41. 1 point
    Any way to use hydraulic pressure through the spark plug holes to pop the head off? I don't know if the rings will handle the pressure, but I think the valves might.
  42. 1 point
    Drain the oil out and hang it upside down in an electrolysis tank. Leave it there for two or three weeks and clean the electrodes at least once a week. Given you've got all the core plugs out, it should do a bang up job of cleaning the inside of the head as well. On second thought... you wouldn't have to hang it. It could just be blocked up so that the water level was above the line between the block and the head. I'd make a tank and leave it in for a month... then try your spark plug pullers again although you should use several and space them out so that pulling pressure is along the entire surface, not just in a corner. My lathe when I started bring it back from the dead... it's not likely it is much more stuck than the compound and internal parts of this apron were after it had been out in the weather for 15 years.
  43. 1 point
    In addition to everything else that you have been told, I suggest you take out the new condenser and replace it with the old one. It seems from what I have read as well as a recent personal experience, new imported condensers are often no good from the start.
  44. 1 point
    Shucks, if the head is that tite, bolts may not be needed. Seriously, the compression may pop it off. Ben
  45. 1 point
    Better picture steering goes through hole ( drivers side )
  46. 1 point
    No it wasn't "that inappropriate", but guys, in this, what I consider overly politically correct world of today we are lucky this thread still even exists, so hey, don't complain
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    I put Fatman drop spindles in my 53 Special in 2000 when I bought the car. I kept the stock springs up front and put a set of Moog cargo-coil rear springs. Fatman suggested I use rear springs from 1968-1972 Ford LTD to get the right ride height.. I had to fabricate clamps to hold the springs but it was a simple task. Using the drop spindles verses chopping the coils keeps the correct spring trim. I am using the stock knee-action shocks and have had no unusual ride problems. It still rides like it was stock. We have put 50,000 miles on since the modifications including three cross country trips from Seattle.
  49. 1 point
    I have grown up with a lot of those mid-70's guys and, although I am not unsympathetic to the loss, those guys do tend to spread the BS pretty thick. And a few of them weasel and cheat at a lot of things they do, particularly if it involves any sort of regulation. I see the car has a for sale sign on it. Any idea of the price? I wouldn't say that was a terribly difficult repair and, surely, not a "T-bone" as I would describe one. I feel really bad for Barry Wolk and don't see him on the forum any more, that was a bad one. This '40 Ford guy, dragging the car to a show, the for sale sign, the $150 story; nah, I know too many old shysters to buy into that one too quick. There's a whole other story. Bernie
  50. 1 point
    You definitely want someone who is familiar with prewar multicylinder coach built cars. With a rarity and difficulty of getting parts , in the expense of restoration , I would recommend you hire a multicylinder Cadillac expert. It's much less expensive to spend money on inspector and not buy the car then if you buy the car with incomplete or bad advice. 32 Cadillac 12s are terrific cars but they can be a handful for your first pre-war car. Ed