Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    Took a mulligan Mr. Earl. Another 70 degree day in Colorado, top down, lunch at A & W.
  4. 3 points
    I bought the car in January. Anyone recognize her? Needs brake work but I'm happy so far.
  5. 3 points
    Hello all. I recently bought a nice 1925 dodge sedan. I haven't done much more the. Start it and drive it off the trailer. Can I get some help from you guys on the dos and donts? I plan to mess around with it for a little while and then possibly let someone else enjoy it later on. Whats the the best way to know how to adjust the timing on the steering wheel? many thanks
  6. 3 points
    IMHO anyone buying a collectable car should immediately order an operators manual, a shop manual and parts manual (no matter what they cost) if the vehicle has a semi-floating axle and wood artillery wheels the very next purchase should be a wheel puller that screws on to the wheel. If you don't need it right now you will eventually. The third item, If you have split rims (not multi piece rims) you should get the proper tool to unlock and collapse the rim in order to change a tire.
  7. 3 points
    Gee, a show at a funeral home would be quite an undertaking!
  8. 2 points
    I think the biggest endorphin rush is to stop at the end of each day and say "It is good." Try that for six days and then rest one. It's an old Irish tradition. Oh, this is endorphins: This is adrenaline: But it is all on a bias to stay with the topic. Bernie
  9. 2 points
    LOL... Now THOSE are words of wisdom...
  10. 2 points
    I am almost positive that the 1955 88 series would be the same as 1955 Century. Need to research body manuals and parts books for 1955 Olds.
  11. 2 points
    Bushings need to be reamed or honed to a slip fit with the pin. Back in the day every car store did this. You're probably going to have to look for a place that still does this. Welch plugs: drive a punch into it and pry out. Taper pin I would say drive towards peened end. The caveat is there's no telling what someone did in the past to booger them up. I totally agree with AAron65. If you can find a shop to do it drop them off and have a beer........................
  12. 2 points
    I bought my '60 Electra in 2002 and have put about the same mileage on it. The first set of Coker biased tires were worn enough to replace at 12,000 miles and I bought the same thing again and they have about 2,000 miles on those so far. I hope to buy another set of the same in ten years. I have no issues with the way it handles. It is a 1960. It drives like it should. The only time I drive like I have a screw loose is straight line accelerating and my speed buzzer is set at 80. It doesn't buzz hard but it clicks and burps once in a while. The summer before last there was an event in Utica that I left for early one Saturday morning. I am near Rochester. That is a 150 mile ride. I was driving through Rochester and still had not decided on using the NYS Thruway or RT 31, a secondary highway. That's how casual the decision was, I hit the Thruway and a couple hours later John D was able to see my dirty biased whitewalls. I came back the leisurely way and ended up with around 350 miles that day. 75 or 50, no big deal. Personally, I don't care for the look or the aspect ratio of radials and they don't fill the wheel wells or provide the stance I know I will get with the biased. Maybe the newer ones look different. I do know that every time I approach my car or walk away from it I like looking at it. If I took a chance and bought something different because of issue I haven't perceived yet or to save money, I know that every tine I looked at the car I would notice it was equipped with my second choice. And THAT ain't gonna happen. My Mother and my Grandmother liked their black Buicks. I remember a conversation about an Aunt who left her lights on and had a dead battery. My Mother said my aunt had a crappy looking car and if she had a nice one she would have looked back to admire it. Then she would have noticed the lights were on. There's a little insight on how I got the way I am. I run biased tires strictly for the endorphins. Bernie
  13. 2 points
    Ben, did you see this 6 x 9 repair kit? http://reconingspeakers.com/product/6x9-diy-aftermarket-recone-kit/
  14. 2 points
    All else equal, the drums are what I would look at. Maybe a fresh turn to make the surfaces the same.
  15. 2 points
    If you have ethanol in your gasoline it is possible that it is bad or that it has destroyed the diaphragm in your fuel pump. Obviously the engine is not getting fuel. All it is running on is the starting fluid. I personally would fill the float chambers with fresh gasoline and try to start the engine. If it starts it may run long enough to suck gas from the tank. If it only runs until the fuel in the carb is gone then your problem is between the tank and the carb. If you disconnect the fuel line at the pump you could blow back through the line to see if it was plugged. You could disconnect the line on the carb side of the pump and crank the engine over but this is/could be dangerous. You could have a fire in seconds. Back in 1960 I took a whole day to start a 53 special that had set for only three months (and that was when we had real gasoline). Good luck.
  16. 2 points
    It does. It's a Maytag. The International refrigerator they bought to keep my my milk cold when I was born is still running too, now keeping my beer cold. Sorry for hijacking your thread Mud.
  17. 2 points
    My buddy had a rear end spreader for an old dodge that worked like a charm. Didn't need to use the ole' tuba-fore method.
  18. 2 points
    Off topic here but back in '56, an appliance salesman demonstrated a Maytag washer to mom by balancing a cigarette on top of it while it was on spin cycle. My brother still has that washer and can still balance a cigarette on it. No baloney! Back to Buicks...
  19. 2 points
    I will be back in the garage tomorrow to finish the other side. I will be able to get all the dimensions then and post them.
  20. 1 point
    http://www.oldsalbertan.ca/article/Car-collection-destroyed-in-barn-blaze-20170309
  21. 1 point
    Does anyone have some good pics from a 1928 Master Six engine / engine bay? I would like to know how it looked like when the car left the factory. And/or a sketch about vacuum lines routing? Mine are routed somehow, with a modern (leaking!) plastic vacuum canister, mounted below dashboard. I have thrown the canister out of the car, but I don't think the routing from the manifold needs to be detoured below the dashboard? Except the one for the wiper of course. Or was there a vacuum canister factory installed? I have as well two lines going up to the wiper motor. One is connected through the wiper operating valve, the other one is "blind". Would appreciate to know how the system worked out of the factory. Thanks, Werner
  22. 1 point
    Yes, you have to remove it from the inside out. DO NOT attempt to pry it out from the front. All you will do is destroy the badge itself. Here is what I recommend. The round disk is brazed to the back of the emblem. That is a very weak point, and easily snapped off. So you have to be very careful. Use your favorite rust penetrator, WD 40, Kroil, PB Blaster, or the AFT/acetone mix. Put it around the the disk and the shell, let it soak for 24 hours and keep applying the penetrator. You do not want to ding the disk with a punch to get it to move, that will misshapen the disk, and you will have a terrible time getting it straight/round again to fit easily back into the shell hole. Go through your socket set and find one that fits snugly on the disk, then gently tap all around the socket and see if there is any movement of the disk. If not put on more penetrator and try again, and again. At some point the disk will give up and push through the front of the shell. Make sure the emblem and shell are supported with something soft and has some give so as to not damage the badge or the shell. Good luck. Let us know how you do. I would not use any heat, as you will melt the disc from the badge. When you reassemble the badge into the shell, put some JBWeld dabs or heavy duty glue on the back edge of the disk. You do not want the badge to fall out the front.
  23. 1 point
    Victoria Lynn, I sent you a P. M. describing maybe an easier way to find out what you're asking, if you don't get a response soon.
  24. 1 point
    I didn't say that. Do the research. May need to talk to Mike Fuscik at Fuscik Olds (has Buick parts too). The 98 is a long wheelbase, but is still the narrow body like the Century and 88...not wide like the 55 Roadmaster and Caddy.
  25. 1 point
    No parking brake? To much weight. Being a racer myself I know that neighbors have mixed feelings about some of my work habits.
  26. 1 point
    Put that hood ornament on a Packard and it turns Egyptian.
  27. 1 point
    I did my passenger kingpin a couple of years ago, and I just gave the spindle to my machine shop to hammer out the old kingpin and install the new one. I figured they'd have the correct reamers to fit the bushings, and from what I remember, the labor bill was about the price of a set of reamers (or less), if I could even find them! Money well spent, in my opinion, and I'm normally a guy who likes to do as much as he can by himself. That would be my suggestion, but I'm sure others will offer theirs. Good luck!
  28. 1 point
    Sounds interesting Matt. I assume you're planning on bringing it home for dismantling? The A/C is so much simpler to remove than the 54-55's. I just pulled one and only took about 5 hours whereas the 54/55s took a day and a half. The power steering is a piece of cake too because of the rag joint. Sounds like a well decked out car, likely going to have power brakes and 4way power seat? Here's hoping it goes well for you and generates some cash for the nice driver you are looking and saving up for. ?
  29. 1 point
    The 'Front Strut Rod Bushing more details on - https://www.carid.com/cart.php' is just the bushings for the 'brake reaction rod' , same as Moog K6484 ; Pictures attached show location, parts #35 to #39 on diagram. Sorry if any of this is redundant info.
  30. 1 point
    When you get done figuring out all the Hemis Chrysler ever made for Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge you can work out the Polysphere versions of the same Hemi blocks, plus the Polysphere engines that never had a Hemi counterpart, then the raised deck Hemis and their Polysphere counterparts, then the Chrysler engines that were used in Dodge cars and trucks, the Dodge engines used in Plymouths, and the Canadian versions that were NEVER used in US made Dodge DeSoto or Chrysler cars but WERE used in certain Plymouths. When you get done figuring that out you can go to work on the flathead sixes and straight eights. Now, with the engines sorted out, you can figure out which transmissions were used with which engines in which years, and in which models of cars and trucks. I tried to organize a spreadsheet once but gave up in despair. I think I know most of the permutations and variations if I come at them one at a time but like I said before, you can go nuts trying to sort them all out at once.
  31. 1 point
    How about a 51 New Yorker attacking Pike's Peak? Possibly the only 5000 pound 131.5" wheelbase rallye car in the world.
  32. 1 point
    Amen to that. Check and double check. I have driven my car 400,000 + miles since I started driving it. I have changed the brake linings enough times that I thought I could do it blindfolded. About two relines ago the job was not a success. I checked everything three or four times. On a forum a man from Australia mentioned that on Midland Steeldrauluc shoes with one rib that rib is off center. If the shoe is on the wrong side the shoe twists and binds. I had never noticed that 1/8th of a difference in five relines. I am not as smart as I believed. Good Luck
  33. 1 point
    You could go nuts trying to figure out the welter of engines and transmissions used by the Chrysler Corporation in their various models, between 1939 and 1959. "Fluid Drive" vs "Fluid Torque Drive" is barely scratching the surface. As to why you and your 40 mechanics never worked on one, that is easy. None of them ever broke down or wore out, Now that they are 60 to 80 years old, some of them need work. Usually because they are low on oil or the wiring is crumbling from old age.
  34. 1 point
    I don't think any part of the brake system would be happy with any sort of petroleum product, or silicone for that matter on the Teves system. I would only recommend running fresh brake fluid through the system. I had heard some time ago about fluid available in different colors to be able to see when the flush was complete, but I never looked in to that. JMHO
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I take Reatta information any way I can get it........... Send me the VIN on any and all Reattas you own or see. I need the VIN and as much additional info as possible...exterior color, interior color, 16way seats? is side molding black or color of car? sunroof? ....if you have a picture send that. The VIN was never etched in any of the windows at the factory.....some police departments did that for free and some dealers did it as a customer service promotion.
  37. 1 point
    Painted the block tonight. I carefully covered all the block openings with blue painter's tape. It's amazing how nice it looks when everything is the same color. 2 coats??? So now I have to paint all the engine accessories to get ready for the final build. My plan going forward is to restore the master cylinder and do a complete brake job. Then replace all four chassis springs. After that, a nice coat of chassis black (POR-15). Then I'd like to install the engine back in the chassis as I feel it's a lot safer there.
  38. 1 point
    I looked on my wheels and didn't find any markings. Attached are a few pictures, which hopefully will help. The last one is the back of the side mount.
  39. 1 point
    Excellent news! Been patiently waiting for him to recover so I can get my center console leatherette, glad he's going to be back in business. Seems like a super nice guy from all correspondence I've had with him. Lucas
  40. 1 point
    I thought it was 1966 for the driver's side OSRV mirror, tire pressure decal either on the door jamb, or inside the glove compartment door, and then the major safety items like shoulder belts, flat dash knobs, side marker lights, etc., for the 1968 model year. Craig
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I agree. The instruction book/owners manual/book of information can help you learn the starting and running of the car. You can get one at Myers Early Dodge.... http://www.myersearlydodge.com/literature.php
  43. 1 point
    Here is an engine dolly I built. I aslo ran the engine on it. Makes it easy tor roll around while the rest of the car is being done
  44. 1 point
    Wife of collector here.. yes, I am scanning websites regularly as we compile list and pics for police and revamp security. Insurance is useless - can't document details of a lifetime of collecting. Here's one pic I have handy, because it was a Christmas present from me...will upload more soon. Interesting comment from Mercer09 about it being someone "close to the fella" -- we've thought of that, but not likely just one fella - more like a crew of scumbags...
  45. 1 point
    I hesitated in responding, because there are some places that this stuff can be used and some where it shouldn't be used. Git Rot (sp) is an epoxy that travels through the wood and soaks into the wood as it travels. Although it works as any epoxy resin it's slow kick time allows it the penetrate both the good wood and the rotted wood before it sets up. It does a nice job of replacing dry rotted material, but also has multiple uses when rigidity of the wood is required. Used judiciously it can be the restores best friend. I've used it several times over the last forty years on wood that I was afraid that I was going to have to replace. Repairs are still holding up today.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    Let the penetrating oil to penetrate. It make take several days with new application of oil everyday. Apply the penetrating oil into the bolt hole were the bolt head broke off. I'm sure that is good and rusted up because breaking a steel head bolt is a sure indicator of that. Second, apply the penetrating oil around the mating surface of the pump/chain cover housing. Allow this is penetrate for days. Yes, rusting steel parts can appear to be welded together. I replaced the t-belt on my KIA. KIA in it's engineering wisdom has the crank gear fitted into the balance pulley. Took a week of penetrating oil and rubber mallet to get the gear off the pulley. Needless to say the gear seats inside the pulley less than a quarter inch. Yet both parts appeared to be welded together as one solid piece. Keep in mind these two parts were assembled together only 6 years ago. Your Buick assembled decades ago. It will take time for the oil to do the trick. Key here is time for the oil to penetrate. Patience. Use light heating at the broken bolt area as the last resort.
  48. 1 point
    Even application of modest heat (i.e. propane torch) to the cover in the vicinity of the bolt may help. Just warm the area, apply some trans fluid, PB Blaster, or other and let it cool. Lather,rinse, repeat... The heat/cool cycling will help to break the corrosion bond.
  49. 1 point
    There is a study that showed Trans fluid and Acetone mix is many times better than PB Blaster. But I have had experiences where soaking those bolts with the hot trans fluid works pretty well. BTW, if you do go to heat something there I'd be careful you don't melt that aluminum cover. I'd be tempted to try and heat the bolt itself with out getting anything to glow. Just heat, trans fluid soak, let cool, and repeat. One more thing. I have done a fair share of timing chain covers. Usually I use a long handle with a thin flat blade screwdriver, and a rubber mallet to break the seal at the top edge, just behind the distributor opening. There and then if I can get a clean shot at the sides by the fuel pump opening and on the opposite side too. Just enough hammering on the screwdriver flat against the engine block, to avoid roughing up the cover.
  50. 1 point
    If the bolt is on an edge drill the side of the cover down to the bolt and introduce your penetrating fluid there. If that does not work tap and install a grease zerk and try to pump grease while heating.