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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/15/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Now that's a goal! Right now spend on cheap paint job and shelter for the car and if the shelter is big enough consider working on it yourself.
  2. 2 points
    In an earlier post in this thread, I suggested to NOT set the idle mixture by setting for the highest vacuum. In most modern (post mid-1930's) carburetors, there is both a lower idle port, and the idle transition slot. The fuel to prevent hesitation when slowly accelerating from an idle is supplied by the idle transition slot, NOT from the accelerator pump. Vacuum is measured below the throttle plate, and the highest vacuum reading will be obtained when the primary throttle plate(s) are closed. This condition forces 100 percent of the idle fuel through the lower idle port, as the transition slot is completely covered by the throttle plate(s). Thus there is no fuel in the transition circuit. OK to use the vacuum gauge, and find the highest vacuum, but then the idle mixture screws should be turned in maybe 1/2 turn (each engine will be different), and the throttle positioner screw also turned in slightly, to crack the throttle plate(s) at idle. As there is now fuel flowing through the idle transition circuit, there will be a smoother transition from idle to the main metering circuit. It is important to know the design idle mixture setting range for the specific carburetor. If this figure is NOT known, and cannot be found, a good rule of thumb is from zero to 1 1/2 turns on pre-smog carburetors. Once the screws are out past the maximum design figure, no additional fuel is added. The caviat about pre-smog carburetors is because more precise idle mixture control was necessary once smog emissions became the law of the land. The taper and angle on the metering section of the idle mixture screws was changed. The length of taper is much longer. This changes the rule of thumb on smog carbs to maybe 1 to 3 1/2 turns. Why should you increase the diameter of the idle tubes? Contrary to popular opinion, the idle mixture screws to not change the idle mixture; rather the idle mixture screws meter the amount of a pre-determined mixture into the engine. The mixture is pre-determined internally to the carburetor by the diameters of the idle tubes (jets) and the idle bleed(s). Think of old-fashioned shower controls where there is a hot control, a cold control, and a pressure (volume) control. The individual enjoying the shower would set the hot and cold controls to their individual comfort, and then generally turn the volume on full. So think of the idle tube as the hot, the idle air bleed as the cold, and the mixture screws as the volume. The design engineers pre-set the hot and the cold (idle tubes and idle air bleeds) for non-ethanol fuel. Generally the idle tubes are going to be 0.032 inch plus or minus 0.005 inch depending on the exact application. The 0.002 addition is a good rule of thumb (sometimes not enough) to enrichen the pre-set mixture to compensate for the reduced energy of ethanol fuel. For those that add more aggressive camshafts to the engine, generally necessary to go more than 0.002, but that is always a good starting point. Jon.
  3. 2 points
    If you are truly emotionally bonded to the car you may find that doing what you can both financially and with your own hands far more rewarding than simply dropping it off at some shop and writing checks. Paying someone else to restore a car is a bit like paying for sex..................Bob
  4. 2 points
    OK - reread the thread, and a few more comments: (1) A 4GC wear out??? maybe, after half a million miles. It MAY be worn beyond the abilities of some. (2) The throttle shaft to throttle body clearance was/should be 0.004~0.006 inch new. Wear of an additional 0.003 is acceptable. Total wear of more than 0.009 should be addressed, either with bushing the throttle body, or machining a new throttle shaft, or both, depending on what is worn. (3) The accelerator pump in MANY 4GC carbs (haven't checked the print on this one) have an internal check valve to relieve percolation air bubbles. If a pump without the ball replaces a pump that should have the ball, percolation in the pump cylinder will cause the volume of fuel in the pump cylinder to slowly be diminished, by pushing the fuel out of the pump jet (while driving) to relieve the pressure normally relieved by the ball. This can cause a very weak or non-existant FIRST pump shot, as the pump cylinder is empty or close to empty. The second (or maybe the third) pump squirt should be normal as pump activity would refill the pump cylinder. (4) The AFB was chosen for aftermarket rather than the 4GC because Carter went after the aftermarket and performance aftermarket, and Rochester did not. Rochester did offer some service replacement carbs, but never aftermarket carbs. Marketing decision. The aftermarket Carter AFB's and especially the clone AFB's are not really suitable for non-racing Buicks. A really good carb person MIGHT get one close, but NEVER as good as an original. If you want an AFB on your Buick, use a genuine made for Buick AFB, not one of the aftermarket, either genuine Carter or clone. (5) And there are NO man-made materials which survive in ethanol as well as the underbelly of a cow! Use leather accelerator pumps! (6) Carters DO have a better reputation, primarily because Carter did offer a plethora of aftermarket tuning parts, and were much easier for a non-carburetor professional to modify when an engine was modified. (7) There are other tricks, but I have to hide something! Jon.
  5. 2 points
    I can't imagine anything on a 67 Camaro being metric. Just go to Rock Auto and order the correct parts
  6. 2 points
    My sediments exactly. After a few miles down the road you won't hardly notice the bullet hole in the windshield
  7. 2 points
    $8-12K is about right: Restoration Services in Seguin, TX or Midtown in Austin....double that at Jeff Lilly in San Antonio. Many of us have painted our cars. No reason you can't do it unless you need instant gratification. Lots of discussion on cost estimates, but most shops will not meet the time estimate!
  8. 2 points
    What a week! After the black ice and drivers not remembering their driving experiences from last year and this weekends record snow fall, WOW! Coming home from work at the height of the black ice event, decided to take a short bit of the last of the highway into the city. It is posted at 80 kms (50 mph) here and while coming down the on ramp experienced the glazed road so put on the 4 ways and managed to keep traction of my F 150 two wheel truck by running the right side tires on the gravel. Even with that only got up to 50 kms (31 mph) thinking I had things under control and would be home soon safely. I then noticed in the rear view mirror many headlights charging up my tail! Held my speed and watched as one by one they passed at a surprising speed. My turn off was just up ahead and slowed to the expecting icy curve when I noticed a set of tire tracks going over the slight embankment through the small field and a three inch tree bent over on the ground! Noticed ahead of the tree some movement to see this car bouncing up and over the on ramp and stopping in the ditch on the other side. Since no other cars were involved kept driving and thought, WELL, what did you expect? The wife's normal 25 minute drive home from work ended up taking 1 hour 15 minutes. Then this weekend the forecast was right (for a change) and by 3 am Monday morning we had 10 inches of heavy snow! Knowing I had to take care of my property's and Dad's, I couldn't sleep and was out by 4:30 am. This was what I saw. You know winter is here when one has to dig out the snow blower from inside one's pick up bed! Fortunately the main roads were in great shape even then but... driveways were a bear to dig out with the heavy snow having been pushed in.... Digging out by hand was not what I wanted to do or planned. Got to dad's eventually and knowing they were not to be anywhere special that day took my time. Mom turned 89 this week (still driving) and dad recently got good results from his latest scan and is stable for now so a good white Xmas is in play! Especially with highs forecast only in the low 20's for the while. Being this cold and no real heat in the garage, the Special will have to wait (again...) for some attention.
  9. 1 point
    Hello and Greetings from beautiful Oklahoma, a place I've called home for almost all of my 53 years. I want to share with you my journey of building a shop. It's a project started about 8 months ago and like most of my other projects, far from being done. Just to jump ahead a bit, I'll tell you that the concrete is poured and the steel is about 90% complete. With winter upon us, slowing progress is imminent. It started with clearing a piece of wooded and brushy land, and subsequently removing the topsoil and preparing for a sound base. The shop will be 96' x 69' and with a peak height of about 27'. The pics below show the beginning and where it is now. On a subsequent posting I will fill in the 8 months with some more pics and description. Thanks for watching, Joel PS - That's my 10 year old boy in the first pic.
  10. 1 point
    My wife and I have enjoyed many thousands of miles of pleasurable motoring in the '59 Electra, but it's time for some major servicing in preparation for the years ahead. Along with the torque ball seal and the rope seal at the rear of the engine, it's time to address the Triple Turbine transmission, which has begun to slip. I've been assured that the condition will only worsen. I've spoken with the Buick Club's expert rebuilder of the Flight Pitch / Triple Turbine transmissions, and the plan is to locate a rebuildable 1959 Triple Turbine core, then ship to him for a rebuild. This will allow us to quickly replace the existing 3T rather than tie up the repair shop while we wait for my transmission to be rebuilt. So, will anyone here sell me a complete, rebuildable '59 Triple Turbine and have it shipped to Ohio for me? All leads are welcome. Please send me an e-mail me directly at: brianL@americanconstco.com Thanks in advance for your help.
  11. 1 point
    Or like paying someone else to have sex for you. It's the emotional component that's hard to quantify. For those of us who mostly do our own wrenching (who don't have an "engine guy", an "exhaust guy", a "suspension guy", etc.), much of the payoff comes from the accomplishment of doing it yourself. Much of the benefit is that you're much more in tune with the car; you know the condition, you know how it works, and you know when something's not right. And if you've got a car which has some specific history (e.g. your first car or one that was handed down through a generation or two), there's no way to put a dollar figure on that. So you try to be sensible, knowing full well that you maybe aren't -- but you don't care, because that's not the point.
  12. 1 point
    According to the article, the club started the museum, but since the club didn't have the proper tax status to accept donations, they created a separate entity which had the correct status and could therefore operate the museum. The plan was always to merge the two and now that the club has proper tax status to operate such a museum, a merger seemed appropriate. But for some reason museum management decided they didn't want to do that. What do they know that we don't? In addition, the former museum director left rather unexpectedly a few weeks ago. I'm reminded of the nonsense that went on here in Cleveland with the Crawford Museum when new management took over and decided that rather than having cars on display, they would prefer to sell the cars and put some cash in the bank instead, you know, to pay for raises for the museum managers for doing such a good job at raising cash--they practically looted the place. Was the old museum director an insider or an outsider to what's going on now? This stinks in more ways than one. First the Nationwide insurance sell-out and now this? From the outside, this looks pretty bad and shakes my faith in the AACA. Is there an outside auditor watching where the money is going?
  13. 1 point
    Reads to me like the AACA home office wanted to gobble up a tremendously valuable piece of Hershey real estate for pennies on the dollar. I see no problem here. The fact they are separate entities has never been a secret. Another way to look at it is it secures the interests of both organizations. In saying that AACA members are getting screwed, that takes nothing into account for those who have donated generously to the Museum knowing it is a separate entity. The Museum took the high road in continuing to honor AACA club member's memberships. Read the last sentence and tell me what club members have lost.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Another harsh reality of our car hobby today is that many highly-effective chemicals which were used "back in the day" for various processes are now banned by EPA, etc. Maybe this has something to do with whitewall tire color durability? Remember when gasoline had tetraethyl lead, which eased valve train wear and allowed for higher compression ratios? (It's gone today.) Do you recall the days when there used to be several chrome platers in every major city? Around here (Dayton, Ohio), they are virtually all gone now. Asbestos was our best bet for gasket material in exhaust manifolds, and a critical component in brake linings. Virtually gone now. We could all give many similar examples, of harsh (but effective) chemicals and materials being no longer available. And, there is much more, WORSE legislation being proposed every day. I spent some time on the board of directors of SEMA in the 1990's, and I was continually stunned and shocked by proposed legislation coming out of California. Anyway, I just wonder if this "greening process" may have anything to do with the problem of whitewall discoloration today?
  16. 1 point
    Please, please do not do anything like building another museum. I am a member of the National Assoc. of Watch & Clock Collectors in addition to numerous car clubs. These museums are giant cash sucking machines with huge infrastructures. The NAWCC museum in Columbia, PA is bankrupting the NAWCC. Yet they keep on funding a museum that does nothing to promote the hobby. Also demographics are against all of us. Go back to the negotiating table and patch up your differences!
  17. 1 point
    Apologies, I guess I misunderstood, but my statement isn't wrong. I took your comment to mean that you had little misc. parts laying around in your junk pile (nuts, brackets, U-joints, etc.), not 80% of the major conversion parts required including the transmission, torque converter, driveshaft, brakes, shocks, shifter, linkage, axles, and rear end. You did indeed get everything other than the bellhousing for $200 because you had it laying around. Not really accurate to tell the original poster that it "only" costs a grand to do what he proposes... Nobody said it was impossible, as your car proves, but I don't think it's accurate to say it's cheap unless you have a junk pile full of useful parts laying around and the expertise to make the modifications--both of which you obviously have. I wasn't calling your credentials or your talent into question, but it would be unfortunate if our friend up above started taking his car apart thinking, "Hell, I can afford a thousand bucks for this!" and ended up $6 or 7000 in the hole on a $12,000 car to get the job finished. It's all good bro, let's just make sure that people without your talent and resources are getting the full picture.
  18. 1 point
    Willie - the last "pretty" carburetor was one of the pre-1930 updraft carburetors that was of brass construction! Jon.
  19. 1 point
    Read closely, Matt, You will notice I had, in my junk collection, a driveshaft, a rear end, an auto transmission, etc. The last sentence in the post states this. Have had a restoration/street rod shop for many years ( I'm 80 in January ) and have collected two warehouses and five acres of treasures or junk depending on one's outlook. Example: the 350 trans came from someone switching to an overdrive automatic, the El Camino rear from a hot rod going to a 9" Ford, etc. Customers leave running gear, tires/wheels, shifters and everything imaginable behind for us to dispose of when their new ride is completed. Need a Studebaker flathead 6 or Hudson 3sp overdrive?---got em. When Ben (First Born) needed a 263 Straight 8 I gave him 3 to choose from or parts from any of them. I also stated one needed abilities and equipment to do the needed tasks to meet that price. We have some skills and machine capabilities. Pic of pull tractor billet aluminum block fresh out of the Haas 5 axis mill. Also make the hemi heads, crank, rods, cams, and multi disc clutch assemblies for tractor. We DO NOT do outside machine work---reserved for our toys only.
  20. 1 point
    Good Michigan driver, now reduced to the "winter beater" category.......
  21. 1 point
    Don't think I "need" to ... just look ... even! If someone wanted it looked at I could, but don't think I will "just because"!
  22. 1 point
    I think you should go check it out Randall since its not far from you. You know........just to look
  23. 1 point
    Your low bridge reminded me of a similar tight squeeze (and behavior). Back in my younger days, we used to cruise down Liberty Boulevard in Cleveland quite a bit. It was a turn of the (19th to 20th) century winding 4-lane park road spanned by stone arch bridges of the same vintage. Every time you went under one of those bridges the lanes went to about 8' wide and there was a general call for "Arms in!". Many was the time I'd fly under one of those bridges at about 50 mph with one finger on the wheel and a beer in the other hand, about 2" from the car in the next lane (or oncoming traffic). Of course, it's neither Liberty Boulevard nor 4-lane anymore. An abundance of caution has turned it into two lanes, and it's called Martin Luther King Drive. One of the bridges:
  24. 1 point
    I brought the car home Monday, put on Santa's hat and then hosed off 30 years of dirt. Merry Christmas.
  25. 1 point
    Any suggestion that the Humber project is dead; is simply wrong. This afternoon I made the long drive to collect the Humber foot (transmission) brake shoes from being relined. We are lucky in Melbourne, where we live in south eastern Australia, that we still have one brake specialist firm who is prepared to go that little extra way to meet their clients requirements. When I took the pair of shoes to be relined I was prepared to accept heat bonded linings rather than brass rivets. I could still put some rivets into the shoes if I felt sufficiently strongly about it. What I am delighted with is the super, very edwardian, woven lining material that has been supplied. I know that it sounds silly and that once installed no one will ever see them but I have the satisfaction of knowing that they are within the correct period for the car.
  26. 1 point
    Can I just bring my tear drop trailer and Park in the street? Ben
  27. 1 point
    Well, the engine is IN and bolted down. Fought us all the way. Just did not want to line up with the transmission. We still don't know what we were doing wrong. It finally slid together, a little at a time. Thanks to my son, Allan, the compressor mount is finished. As is heat to the intake manifold. The exhaust needs one more joint welded. I changed the routing a little. I will do my darndest to bring the pictures up to date soon. I am having trouble with my computer. It hides my pictures. I eventually find them, but it is FRUSTRATING. Ben
  28. 1 point
    If you paid $5,000 for a pair of Y.O.M. plates, there is bigger problem in your live than the D.M.V.
  29. 1 point
    On mine the off idle stumble that could not be fixed, was when you were just easing away from a stop. If you punched it (and got a shot from the accelerator pump) it ran fine...hard to drive that way. That 4gc is really a pretty carb...sitting on a shelf with some dust on it!
  30. 1 point
    During the rebuild, get the original specifications for the idle tubes in the carburetor. Drill them 0.002 oversize. Make certain the "factory fix" is done in the choke vacuum supply circuit! Make certain that the primary and secondary floats are NOT interchanged. Set the floats to specifications. DO NOT set the idle mixture using a vacuum gauge for the highest vacuum! Should run like a sewing machine. Jon.
  31. 1 point
    I've had both, 4GCs and AFBs. No noticeable difference in performance but I prefer the AFB for two reasons: 1) The AFB has no gaskets below the float level (no propensity to leak) and 2) the AFB is much easier to rebuild (for me the amatuer.)
  32. 1 point
    I had my original 4GC rebuilt three times be people who "knew what they are doing". The first guy put the choke rod on backwards and mismatched the two check balls. The second guy did an awesome job refinishing it, I think that's where he focused on the carb. The third guy dipped it in acid and handed it back to me, removing the nice finish the second guy put on. I ordered a kit from Carb King and admittedly the first week the carb was weak. I must have drove it really hard because it started to clean up. I bought a second one from MrEarl and went through it the same. No modifications. There was always a slight bog, but an 8th turn rich made it really unnoticeable unless you were in low trying to mash it at a stop light. My 4GC collection is a love hate relationship. The carb I got from MrEarl ran better initially than my original, I think in part to my car being a high mileage car and the throttle shaft was worn. When I did my dual carbs, I greased up all the shafts with the same grease I use to seal my wiper motor actuator and it seemed to make a difference. Now with just my original carb, about twice a week on payday I go out with a sewing needle and apply some silicone grease around the throttle shafts the same as my wipers. I think there's a reason why the AFB carb was picked for aftermarket reproduction and not the 4Jet. Others on the forums have had success with a 600cfm Eddy, but then you're looking at rewiring your car.
  33. 1 point
    I don't have the time, storage or shop. A lot of my repairs and work in the last year have been on my back in the pouring rain. Naturally I took a break for the winter lol. But not having a place to store the car means rot is setting in, too, and I would rather have it in a climate controlled shop being painted than outside unpainted. Plus you should see my outstanding paint skills. This is one thing I wish I could do myself but I don't think I'll regret this as much as the engine. Now that we've established what they're asking is a fair estimate, does anyone know of a way to make 10 grand in 6 months? I'm open to ideas here.
  34. 1 point
    Or Antique Automotive Service in St. Louis
  35. 1 point
    Shoot, you can still have a dance hall with a couple of posts in the middle. It's where you will find me leaning, trying to look cool. Looks great, Joel.
  36. 1 point
    Beemon, The shop who quoted you $8-12k and says they are going to keep a log book and keep you updated sounds like a pretty reasonable shop to deal with. There is a relatively good chance you will be disappointed in any shop you choose, depending on your expectations. I can almost guarantee you will be disappointed in a shop that gives you a firm quote as opposed to an estimate. At some point that "quote" shop will run into something that will take more time to do and will not do it because they will lose money. I never gave quotes to anybody on any work I did. I would give a reasonable estimate and I did my best to come in under it every time and I lost money many times because I wanted to be "fair" to a customer. I am also a semi-bitter ex-restoration shop owner because I gave too many deals to too many people. (Insert Tongue in cheek emoji here). Anybody who is willing to "make you a killer deal" will also disappoint you. Your project WILL wait at this shop. My story follows... My 55 Special was painted at a shop that was 60 miles round trip from my house. I was "quoted" $5k. I took it there with the chrome and seats out, engine rebuilt and firewall painted by me (with a small touch up gun in a garage). I drove there every weekend dropping off or picking up parts and small pieces. I helped installing glass. I picked the car up and drove it home after it was completed and I installed all of the trim, weatherstrip and interior. All said and done, the final bill was over $8k... but they stripped the car to bare metal, patched several rusted spots, painted the door jambs and dashboard. I was distressed that they went over the quote (more of an estimate, dontcha think?) by nearly half, but the car looked outstanding in the end. It was the best paint I saw on many cars I "competed" against. I don't think I could have done a better job at that point in my life. The key to my story is that I established a positive working relationship with that shop and assisted without being a nuisance. We are still on speaking terms which is a different experience than I have heard from more than one other hobbyist.
  37. 1 point
    Just finished. Corvette 427 pure traditional art, only graphite pencils used!
  38. 1 point
    $12,000 for a full restoration? That's insanely cheap for a full job. There's no way a restoration can be completed for anywhere near that figure. Or are you talking just a paint job? $12,000 will get you a decent paint job, depending on the car and the level of disassembly required. You can surely expect surprises underneath, guaranteed. Few old cars are faultless under the surface. Those holes you mention are probably a bit worse than expected. It's easy to understand how costs get out of control pretty quickly if there are unseen issues that need to be addressed. Don't expect to hold the shop to that price no matter what--if they're experienced, they'll tell you that there's no telling what they'll find and costs can and will change as they get in there. Be prepared to spend more if that's what it takes to get it done right. It's not reasonable to expect them to have X-ray vision when quoting the job and unforseen issues are your responsibility, not theirs.
  39. 1 point
    Check out this pro's crate! Now that's the way
  40. 1 point
    Why would you not choose to contact your PA DMV Headquarters I( state capital ) for an absolute answer on the Y.O.M plates?
  41. 1 point
    Maybe she misunderstood. Make sure she knows you got a new grille....not girl
  42. 1 point
    Not a chance. My son has already claimed it and if he changes his mind his sister has second dibs. I know the offspring are discussion who gets what as I have started working on our 1918 E-4 Buick truck. My daughter and her significant other are planning on touring with us with that truck. My son likes to say that we have the largest collection of Buick trucks in the world......2.
  43. 1 point
    The cover arrived today, and is a much better quality material than what I have bought in the past. Hopefully, it will work for my purposes. It also fits much better than others I've bought.
  44. 1 point
    All right the painted Jetfire is in the house. Mow for a whole lot of work to go! Take a look!!!
  45. 1 point
    I'm almost embarrassed to admit I finally bought possibly this last one on the planet. I got multiple re-chrome estimates ranging from $1000 - to $2000. - Such a delicate piece, running the risk getting a crack in the process. At least I have a spare or if someone needs one.
  46. 1 point
    Sure the answer is to find good dry indoor storage, but that was not the question or issue. If you must store a car outside what option do you have? I have been selling Covercrafts products for 34 years and have talked to lots of people with different problems and different budgets. If you have a parts car and all you want to do, as cheaply as possible to save the interior, a waterproof tarp is the cheapest option. Companies like Covercraft do not sell "waterproof" covers, the reason is they trap moisture under the cover. Over the years many new fabrics/materials have been developed that repel water quite nicely (Gortex is one material but I don't know a cover manufacturer that make a cover of that material because of the cost) The materials are listed as water repellant to different degrees but they all breathe. At one time Covercraft made a cover that had sealant applied to the seams to reduce water intrusion but that was expensive. Outdoor car covers should be used for short periods of time as even the "breathable" ones can retain moisture if the outside humidity remains high. If your town/development will allow, use a cover method that does not touch the car. The cheapest approach is to make a PVC frame and put a inexpensive waterproof tarp over the frame. This protects the vehicle and if there is moisture inside the cover is not touching the car and that eliminates one big issue. Also, do not make or buy a storage solution that has a flat top....that is just asking for problems, you need one that allows water, snow and ice to run off . After this cheap approach there are lots of more expensive temporary structures that can be purchased depending on your budget and how nice you want it to look. So the solution is anywhere from a tarp to building a garage.
  47. 1 point
    Adam , Ted has discovered the real world truth about fabrics that try to do all things under all conditions all the time. Quite impossible. I had a company which made and introduced the world's first consumer Gore-Tex (TM) product. A two person extremely light weight single wall tent called the Light Dimension. A show stopping game changer. Waterproof to about 55psi , (mil-spec was 50 psi). The active layer is an extremely thin film of Teflon , in our case sandwiched between rip stop nylon , and a non directional flock on the inside to protect the membrane. Gore-Tex (TM) , allowed water vapor to pass the membrane , as a molecule of H2O in gaseous form is very small , I seem to remember 2(H2O) , but as a liquid , many X(H2O) form a macro-molecule too large to pass the Teflon film. All well here so far. When the laminate becomes dirty with any type of surfactant that breaks down the surface tension of the macro-molecule (oils , detergents , etc. , etc. , etc.) , the laminate is no longer waterproof. Therefore it is extremely important to follow the manufacturers cleaning instructions carefully. Maintaining adequate seam sealing is also critical. These maintainance necessities will announce themselves when a very small leak is noticed by the enclosed person. Trouble is , a car can't tell you when it feels a drop. What I do in your situation is to wrap a clean waxed dry warm car in two or three clean dry cheap , NOT WATERPROOF car covers so there is ample breathing. Next an inexpensive tyvek cover , and last good old heavy plastic , with many of those squease on plastic grommets to tie that multi-layer "laminate" securely in place. Make sure that any "skirt" does not touch the wet driveway , and if done right , your car will stay dry for long periods between drives. Proper layering is the only way to provide long term protection. Your new cover would be a very good option when traveling for short term protection. Not really practical nor necessary to carry and deploy multi-layers frequently. Do you guys think there would be more exposure of this important thread if it were shared with "General" ? I think all the good info here is not just Buick specific. Could a moderator duplicate this in "General" ? Keep it dry this Winter , Adam , and heed well Teds warning. - Carl
  48. 1 point
    I went with this one... http://www.covercraft.com/us/en/product/covercraft-custom-weathershield-hp-car-cover.C-CCHP
  49. 1 point
    I have an NOS `67 grille. I would trade it for a `66 NOS grille. Tom Mooney