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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/14/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    $8-12K is about right: Restoration Services in Seguin, TX or Midtown in Austin....double that at Jeff Lilly in San Antonio. Many of us have painted our cars. No reason you can't do it unless you need instant gratification. Lots of discussion on cost estimates, but most shops will not meet the time estimate!
  2. 2 points
    And here is the video of us getting jacks 1923 california top lincoln out and getting it ready to ship to the museum.
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    There was a question in a recent Old Cars Weekly, why does a gasoline engine speed up slightly right before it runs out of gas? This would apply to normally aspirated engines only of course, with carburetors, not fuel injection. Interesting question, so I asked my buddy Greg Cone, who builds engines from scratch. He says the old guys in the speed world talked about "maximum lean power". This is the point at which the air/fuel ratio is perfect for the engine, and it produces the most power, and thus runs faster. The problem with the air/fuel mixture being at the MLP setting is that the engine won't live long running that lean. We all know that running an engine too lean can burn valves, too much heat and not enough cooling effect from the incoming air. So, apparently what happens is that at the very instant of running out of gas, the mixture goes from slightly rich to a point which equals the maximum lean power point, and it speeds up momentarily. I thought I knew a lot about engines, but this is an interesting tidbit!!
  5. 2 points
    I started this topic last December almost a year to the day. Its cold again and I'm still fixing stuff. Todays project was the heater. Both of my heater motors, defroster fan and heater fan did not work good. They would make much noise and spin slowly, they needed lube at the least. When I last pulled the heater out I tried to lube the motors and although it helped it was only a bandaid. Yesterday it was about 40 degrees when I decided to try the heater, the motor made a terrible screeching noise and barely turned. I decided last night to take the heater out of the car once again and fix it correctly. The original heater in our car is still almost pristine as far as the paint and trim is concerned and the heater core does not leak. I found two 6 volt motors on EBay that were NOS for other cars but both had the correct shaft size and close to the dimensions of the stock motors. I've been saving them for some time as I knew the day would come when I would replace mine. My heater also has a motor on top that powers another fan in a defroster housing. This has to be disconnected from the main heater housing before the heater comes out of the car unless the glove box is removed. Its only held on by two screws but it takes a right angle screwdriver to remove them while you are partially upside down on the floor. Once thats done the heater will come right out. The heater body comes in two halves which entrap the heater core and its framework. The old fan motor can then be removed from its mounting brackets but not before removing the fan blade from the motor. This requires a small puller if you want to use the blade again without damaging it on the new motor. I installed the new motor being careful to route the wire in the proper stock recess and then out thru the stock grommet in one of the heater body cases. My new motor had two wires coming out of it while the stock motor had only one. One of the two wires on the new motor is a ground wire so I drilled a small hole in the case half and fed it thru the various parts to where it came out the hole and attached to a case screw. After redrilling the motor tabs so that the new motor would screw onto it and be centered correctly it had to be adjusted to make the fan have the right height above the heater core. Not a big problem but not just a simple bolt up. The defroster assembly I had purchased was also NOS but for a different make car. It was very close to the Buicks and worked perfectly after using parts of the original defroster housing and parts of the new one. I finally bench tested everything and it all worked like brand new. I got everything installed back in the car and am happy that although it was a PITA the car now has great heat, runs quiet and should last longer than me.
  6. 2 points
    $12,000 for a full restoration? That's insanely cheap for a full job. There's no way a restoration can be completed for anywhere near that figure. Or are you talking just a paint job? $12,000 will get you a decent paint job, depending on the car and the level of disassembly required. You can surely expect surprises underneath, guaranteed. Few old cars are faultless under the surface. Those holes you mention are probably a bit worse than expected. It's easy to understand how costs get out of control pretty quickly if there are unseen issues that need to be addressed. Don't expect to hold the shop to that price no matter what--if they're experienced, they'll tell you that there's no telling what they'll find and costs can and will change as they get in there. Be prepared to spend more if that's what it takes to get it done right. It's not reasonable to expect them to have X-ray vision when quoting the job and unforseen issues are your responsibility, not theirs.
  7. 2 points
    My turn — how about winter road trips?
  8. 1 point
    Put the original small hub caps back on and put a working clock in the dash,the electric clock did not work so I found a wind up clock and had it gone through. I would like to get the electric clock working but since the 5 dollar swapmeet cost me 100 to get working it will be in there for a few years,I also put power brakes on it so it needed a power brake pedal pad and found one for 5 dollars.
  9. 1 point
    At the suggestion of member R1Lark, here is a model of a 62 GT Hawk I recently completed.
  10. 1 point
    My policy was recently updated to include all household vehicles and extended towing. So I was not worried about help when my 97 F-150 had a blowout at night on a busy road. After 10 minutes of discussing my location the operator said he would call back with updates. 30 minutes later and no update, so I called and he said they were still looking for a provider; he said no one would come out for a tire change, but wanted to tow instead. (Whaaaat? Negotiating while I wait on the side of the road?) Since I was less than 10 miles from home I suggested a towing company. He said the they were closed and not working that night. ( I called the towing company and they did in fact discuss my need for a tow, but could not get together on financial arrangements: my roadside assistance company would only pay a mailed in invoice.) I was finally moving again 2 freakin' hours later! By the way the roadside assistance company will not reimburse if I arrange my own assistance. So they negotiate with towing companies and tell lies. A call to customer service had a haughty representative telling me that 1.5-2 hours was standard for roadside assistance with any company. They will be fired. I am better off finding my own help with a smartphone. My most valuable commodity is time. Name of the company? You will have to PM since we are not allowed to post negatives.
  11. 1 point
    During the rebuild, get the original specifications for the idle tubes in the carburetor. Drill them 0.002 oversize. Make certain the "factory fix" is done in the choke vacuum supply circuit! Make certain that the primary and secondary floats are NOT interchanged. Set the floats to specifications. DO NOT set the idle mixture using a vacuum gauge for the highest vacuum! Should run like a sewing machine. Jon.
  12. 1 point
    anyone else see moonshiners last night with the guy driving a 55 with a 3 speed stick. tooling down the road.
  13. 1 point
    I estimated above would sell for $8K-$10K, I see final selling price when it closed yesterday on eBay was $9100. I should get in the appraisal business!
  14. 1 point
    Thank You ScarredKnightfan. Here is a more recent photo as shown in Old Autos a Canadian newspaper dedicated to car enthusiasts
  15. 1 point
    I've had both, 4GCs and AFBs. No noticeable difference in performance but I prefer the AFB for two reasons: 1) The AFB has no gaskets below the float level (no propensity to leak) and 2) the AFB is much easier to rebuild (for me the amatuer.)
  16. 1 point
    Is it W P C H R Y S L E 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 and I can't remember what they used for zero? So that would be C P 1 7 2 P 3 2 1 7 2 2 UPDATE: this is wrong. See a couple of posts down. It goes 0 to 9 from W to E then D for 9.
  17. 1 point
    Well, I guess I can let the cat out of the bag and loose in the kitchen now. Thanks to dbdave26 passing my name on to the previous owner, I now own and am in possession of (well, a friend has it!) this engine. It appears to be a late 1903 Motorette engine, but we're still debating and trying to figure out the exact year. The "6" on the side casting is supposed to denote a 6 horsepower engine. Color me happy! It's a wonderful addition to my George N. Pierce memorabilia collection!!
  18. 1 point
    Is this Jeff Fall in Wauseon? If so, yes. Known him for several years. He has parted lots of cars of all makes and has tons of parts. PM me of you have further questions. Gary
  19. 1 point
    I just went out and "tested" 7 used accumulators on the shelf with a plastic alignment tool from my TV repair days. The tool went in 7/8" in 6 units, and 3 I/2" in one unit. I have a brand new one I was going to test, but it's still sealed in its package and I didn't want to 'disturb' it.
  20. 1 point
    Could be a 1949 Special. Those are often mistaken for 1948s because they use the 1948 body. There's no way to tell outwardly, except to look at the data plate on the car. Only 4,631 1949 Special coupes built, so they are rare.
  21. 1 point
    And it doesn't even have a title...
  22. 1 point
    I have pair of these 35 Chrysler for sale if you are interested. PM me for more detail
  23. 1 point
    With numbers like that, it makes no sense to restore 95% of the old cars out there.
  24. 1 point
    We were very fortunate that the original seats actually cleaned up without the need for recovering. Sure, the oxblood center strip is not as fresh as new, but the seats have a nicely worn appearance, and will look great after reinstallation in the car.
  25. 1 point
    Hydraulic valve lifters do have a check valve. When new they will hold pressure a long time. On old ones maybe not. No matter what you do, when you shut the motor off, some valves will be open meaning the lifters are under pressure from the valve springs. If they leak down they can make quite a racket until they pump up again. It seems starting the engine, running it for a minute, then shutting off gave them some oil pressure while taking the spring pressure off because the engine came to rest in a different position. If dirt sludge or varnish is to blame maybe an oil change and some Rislone, Bardahl, or Marvel Mystery Oil will help. Or, a different brand of oil. I have had a car that did what you describe on one brand of oil, but not on others. The guilty brand was Castrol. New lifters should cure it but I don't recommend this except as a last resort. Since they stopped making pushrod engines the supply of lifters has dried up and the ones you get today are not very good, so they tell me. Plus you would have the expense of buying the lifters and changing them.
  26. 1 point
    Not that I'm aware of, but there is Maaco. 1/2 price paint jobs in February. Not "show car" quality for sure, but they are decent driver quality paint jobs. We spent more money on sandpaper, fasteners, & window seals than on the paint job itself. Not perfect, but good enough to win a few awards...
  27. 1 point
    Good point, Phil, we have learned there were numerous changes during the DL model run. This could be another instance. Maybe the guy who was putting the bumpers on upside down was moved over to horn installation on the assembly line.
  28. 1 point
    There's actually many parts of this project that will have to be contracted. There's about 90 yards of concrete that goes into this floor. The floor has thickened edges and will be 4" thick with 3500# concrete. The rebar is 24" on center and is #4 (1/2"). There is additional rebar in the thickened edges. I supposed that a highly motivated individual could pour this in sections but this is where I grit my teeth and reach for the checkbook. The floor man did a final leveling of the pad and set the forms using corners that I had measured and staked and prepared the floor for concrete. This building will utilize a combination wood and steel structure. There will be eight 4" pipe poles that will be on the interior of the building. These poles will be set and concreted to a depth of 4 feet - AFTER THE FLOOR IS POURED. To accomplish this, I needed to have these locations "plugged" with something that I could remove, after curing, and then drill through to set the pole. So, I sawed off the bottom of 5-gallon buckets and then carefully located them within the floor, staked them down and filled them with gravel. It worked like a charm. In case I forget, the concrete guys raised the rebar and put it on 2" high chairs.
  29. 1 point
    The big issue is the torque tube drive line. With $$$$$ and engineering skill its probably/may be possible to keep a toque tube, These guys make adapters, but will be based on an open drive line to the diff. The torque tube keeps the diff located http://www.transmissionadapters.com/Pricing.htm http://www.transmissionadapters.com/buick_straight_8installkit.htm
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    This would be an expensive task and a major undertaking with modifications to the chassis as well as a custom made bell housing and a different rear axle. It would actually be easier to start with a different engine that was made for automatic transmissions. How about a hydraulic clutch assist, much easier to design and fabricate.
  32. 1 point
    David, if you need a "lift", come on over. One is always available for you. It is Tuesday, December 13th. Headed out to NAPA this morning to pick up the heater fan for Brownie the van. And it says "made in Canada", yahoo!!!!!. I may be able to get it in today. Cost $44. And I found an air regulator and water filter at Sears. Now I just have to get a short hose to connect it up. Oh, it is made in China. On sale $33.
  33. 1 point
    When you try to do nearly everything yourself, you should be prepared for the long haul. Life has many other great events and I don't want to miss any of them. I've attached some pics, not of my shop, but of other worthy activities that keep shop progress in its rightful place. Among many other things, a train ride in the Black Hills, my peach orchard and of course, some fishing time with the boy - the shop can't compete. Thanks, Joel
  34. 1 point
    Rust and corrosion on the unit. The ranco valve is supposed to help maintain a constant temperature in the car...never worked any better than lesser cars without. A $10 seal from NAPA will fix (or $100+ for send off rebuild), but it is real tedious to change. I can give additional info when you are ready.
  35. 1 point
    While not "fitted" this is the way I show my '39 Century 66S. You might also note it has a trunk spare and dual side mounts. That trunk spare is much easier to get out than the side mounts and no one has ever commented about the extra spare.
  36. 1 point
    I have a lot of Buicks and I wanted a place to be able to spread out several projects at one time. This shop will allow for that and it's not all open space. Out of about 6,600 ft2 there will be about 450 ft2 of living space with office area, bed, kitchen, bath and shower. Next to that will be a climate controlled room of about 450 ft2 with work areas. The space above this will be a mezzanine for parts storage and for that stuff we all have - we'll probably never use - but we can't bring ourselves to get rid of it. I will have a car lift in here somewhere and in the southwest corner will be a 14' x 26' paint booth with downdraft air flow. This space will be waterproofed and double as a car wash / buffing area. There is some porch to this building. Approximately 600 ft2 will be under roof but exposed on one side. I am wanting this area to be used in the summer for the many dusty sanding activities. I'll talk more about all of this in subsequent posts. For now, I thought I'd share some drawings. Much to my chagrin, I guess you have to know where you're going before you can get there - but still, I like to adjust my course as I go along. The pics aren't good but it gives you an idea of what I'm thinking. More to come, Joel
  37. 1 point
    It was Dave. That Arctic White with the whitewalls was beautiful...before the crash..... Not sure if he will leave this one red or try to turn it into what he had before. He is not certain what is up with the seats yet either but will let me know as soon as it arrives in CA.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Especially if your hand is wider than the extension is long. ?
  40. 1 point
    Yeah, I've heard that one before...
  41. 1 point
    I feel the same about mine. That's really awesome! My mother always tells me that classic cars are not meant to be driven by today's standards, even before I had pulled the engine so that's all I've ever really known until I became a bigger part of this community. Even if I had the money to do a "400 point restoration", it would always still be a driver.
  42. 1 point
    holy mackerel is this thread making me fell like a wimp.
  43. 1 point
    When I was about 15-16 years old, (1969-70) my dad traded a clean unrestored 49 Chevy 4 dr he had found for a basket-case 28 Model A pickup. He said he had always wanted a stock Model A pickup to drive to work every day, and he was bound to have one now. His original intent was to just bolt it together, get it running, brush-paint it, and drive it. But it needed some body work, and we started hand-sanding 11 layers of old paint and rust off of it (we had no air compressor, nor any power bodywork tools). He and I worked on it 7 days a week for 14 months, and when it was done, it was beautiful, with a lacquer paint job applied by a talented friend. Dad did just what he had said he would do...he drove it every day to work for a year or two...regardless of weather conditions. And since we had no garage at home, it sat outside for all that time. That first winter after the restoration, we got a beautiful snowfall one night. Mom got the whole family up early, (before the new-fallen snow would get trampled everywhere), put us all in our old raccoon coats, and took us over to our neighbors' home, where their backyard would make a beautiful backdrop for a Christmas card photo. I think the year was 1970, but might have been 1971.
  44. 1 point
    It is a survivor. It is a driver. I drive it. It is not a show car. It has a very old repaint. The enjoyment of the trip was worth the time that I had to spend cleaning the tree needles off of it after the trip. A little bit of rubbing compound will take care of any minor scuffs that I might find on the roof. They made them to drive.
  45. 1 point
    No question these are the finest of the finest. I had two of them way back from 1973-1981. In an article I wrote for ANTIQUE AUTOMOBILE that was published in 1971 I was able to show this car was more technically advanced and higher horsepower than any car produced in 1941. It is true, with an optional aluminum head, the Packard 356 cid engine could achieve an equal standard 165 horsepower to the Buick Century, Roadmaster and Limited, but Cadillac could achieve only 150 horsepower with their V-8. The wheelbase on this car is 139-inches, and Matt is correct that it steers virtually as if it has power steering. That's amazing. I drove my AACA Senior car from Baltimore to Ohio and back at highway speeds in 1978 or 1979 to an AACA National Meet. My car was a Series 90 with jump seats and it was Silver French Gray over Lancaster Gray with a tan interior. I'm 5-11 (or was then ) and the seats were comfortable. I thought the jump seats gave the car more pizzaz. The earlier 41 Limited I had was a Series 91 that I sold to a man in Wisconsin. That car was light green over a darker green. I'd have to go look up the colors. I can't think of a currently recognized CCCA Full Classic I would rather have. But, their prices have sort of gone over what I consider to be my pay grade now. I remain hopeful that one day soon, before I die, that the CCCA will see the light and recognize the 1941 Roadmaster as a Full Classic as it should be. In looking at cars for sale, I find the Roadmaster harder to find anymore than the Limited. I guess that may be because the Limited has been more roundly recognized as collectible since CCCA and AACA both accepted it as a Classic back in 1974. I was the one who applied to both clubs for Classic status, and I won that one.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I had a 60 Impala convertible with a 348 and Turboglide trans. It was surprisingly fast. The Turboglide trans started leaking after a lot of hard use. I converted it to three speed standard with a Hurst Synchrolock shifter. After going through a number of transmissions, the car got wrecked. I saved the 348, rebuilt It and put it in my 56 chevy 210 Delray with a three speed and a 3.32 posi. After over forty five years it's still alive and well today in unrestored condition.
  48. 1 point
    This is definately a 30 hp, 1906, Smith & Mabley Simplex. It is S&M car number 77, purchased from S&M's Malcomb A. Strauss in June of 1906. I have a front view photo of this car (S&M photo #12764), I believe taken in 1906. It is without the bumper, and with a white on black PDNY license plate. There were no other sales to the NYC Police Dept. listed in the Smith & Mabley records. Bill Bell, Simplex historian 3/11/2010