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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/05/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It isn't that there's nobody to buy your cars, it's that there's nobody to buy your cars at prices that you think they should command. Please don't take that the wrong way, but some cars are getting less valuable rather quickly. In fact, I bet almost all of our old cars are currently depreciating, some faster than others. Got a 1920s sedan? Falling like a rock. Obscure orphan brands? Likewise. But even blue chip cars are floundering in a measurable way: '57 Chevys, '34 Fords, Model As, and other formerly reliably marketable cars are finding fewer and fewer eager buyers. What does it mean? Well, the primary thing is that you're going to have to adjust your expectations when you sell. If you bought an antique (note the word) car in the last 20 years, I bet it's worth about what you paid. Not much appreciation, and it might even be worth less depending on when you bought it . Full Classics are seeing gains, but 4-door sedans are going to remain affordable. '50s cars are popular, but they have to be the top models with lots of bling, not garden-variety family models. Your '52 Pontiac sedan is going to struggle to find a new home, regardless of how much you've spent and how cheap a price you put on it. And I should point out that I'm totally ignoring things like high-end European brands, Ferraris, and other six- and seven-figure collectables. They live in a different market than most of us, and that's OK. They are a tiny slice of the hobby, so small that it doesn't even really count as the same thing. The good news, in my opinion, is that as prices drop, the cars will become appealing to new, younger buyers who formerly couldn't afford such things. They may see a $3500 1935 Oldsmobile sedan that they can drive and enjoy immediately and maybe they'll join the hobby that way. With luck, the whole cycle will start all over as they mature into more sophisticated collectors. The cars will remain. Current owners are going to have to adjust to a market with falling prices and new owners will probably not look at these as "investments" the way we used to. They'll be fun that you can buy for a shorter time then move on without a profit, like a day pass to an amusement park or a video game. Getting current owners to reconcile with the changing market will be the single biggest problem and it's going to make the market messy. There's going to be a lot of cognitive dissonance for the forseeable future as owners who have been in the hobby for decades and watched prices go up steadily all that time suddenly discover that what they know and what their guts tell them about old car values are completely invalid. They will have a hard time wrapping their heads around that fact and letting go at lower, new market-correct prices. Despite overwhelming evidence of declining demand and increasing supply, they're going to insist on raising prices, because, after all, that's how it has worked since the 1950s. Estates and descendants will be even worse, because they don't have anything except the word of the deceased relative about values. There will still be cars, there will still be a hobby, but there's going to be a gradual reset that hopefully will pull younger people in just because the economics of joining will improve. I'm counting on it.
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    Last weekend we took the two big ones, the '56 Roadmaster and the '69 Electra out to storage. A nice Fall day, and a sad one to be putting them away for another year! I finally got the new, rebuilt master cylinder installed on the '41 Roadmaster, which is staying in the home garage again this year. So I took it out for a cruise on this great Fall day. Unbelievable weather for Nov 2! Keith
  4. 1 point
    New to the forum and new to classic car ownership (for the most part - I used to have a 1948 Plymouth when I was in college, but sold it after about 2 years). I recently decided that I needed to retire my 2003 Nissan daily driver and my wife suggested we consider a classic. I began monitoring local cars for sale, looking for just the right one. I finally found it in this 1953 Buick Special Riviera hardtop restomod. After some long deliberations, I took the plunge. Not that I dislike the stock look of these cars, but the way this car has had its lines cleaned up and streamlined just makes my heart sing. Here's a list of things I love about it and a list of things that need work. Things I love: -Shaved everything. Door handles, trunk lid, hood, etc. -Satin two tone paint. I had been looking for something with some patina, but this color just speaks to me. -Frenched everything. Headlights, tail lights (although they aren't the original ones), ports! -Interior has been updated and is clean (except for the missing headliner) -The front grill. I love that big toothy mouth! -The stance - it has been lowered 2 inches. I believe this was done by putting in shorter springs and leaving the original shocks, which I understand brings the shocks out of working range. So the ride is a little jouncy, but I don't mind. -The engine runs great -Gotta love that side trim Things that need some work: -The paint is showing some wear. Significant chips in places and especially around the hood corners (I understand this is a common problem with this model). -The hood alignment. It's not so much misaligned as it is too wide at the back. The corners closest to the windshield are about 1/2 inch too wide on both sides. I'm not sure if I should try and bend the hood or bend the hinges toward the center? -The headliner is non-existent. I have the bows, but that's it. I'm a little nervous to try installing a new one myself, especially without having one to remove to see how it goes in. But I also don't want to pay $1000 for a professional to do it. -The torque ball seal is leaking. This is first on my to do list. -Minor exhaust leak at the exhaust manifold. I've read that stock this did not have gaskets between the exhaust manifold and block. Mine does have a gasket. Maybe that's why it leaks. But I'm afraid to go gasketless as I don't know the condition of the mating surfaces. -Wipers need to be installed. I hope they work because this is going to be my driver. -Some of the windows need new glass or mechanism repair/adjustment Overall, I am super happy with my purchase so far. I hope to have many miles of fun in this car and I'm sure I'll be on here often asking for advice. I'll keep this thread updated as I make progress on the car. From the ad:
  5. 1 point
    There isn't any wobble in the pump shaft of the old pump. And the eyeball test shows the pulley straight and in alignment with the other pulleys. What I did notice was that the original pump seems to pump erratically. I wanted to flush the steering box and lines before putting another pump on, so, I disconnected the return line and drained the reservoir as much as possible. Then I spun the pump by hand to push more fluid through the steering box. When I spun it by hand the fluid just dripped out the return line, till one point where the pump caught a prime and then it really pushed the fluid through. That does not empty the reservoir though, so I sopped up the remains with paper towels and wiped the inside of the reservoir down. Then I filled the reservoir half way with new fluid and spun the pump again. Just like before, dribbles till all of a sudden it caught and then it pushed the fluid through. I did this several times, always stopping before exposing the pickup port of the pump. Each time it was the same thing. I guess this must have been why I had a erratic droning with the vibration. I already cleaned up spare pump #1 and installed it. However, I do have to bleed the system as the fluid foamed up seconds after starting the engine. I'll work on that over the next few days.
  6. 1 point
    A How To: on installing a lift in a low ceiling garage - http://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/lift/rj.html
  7. 1 point
    I use citric acid . before you stress out its a food grade additive it's in things like Coca-Cola. 25kg to 1000 litters of water costs about $70 Australian for this mix.3 or 4 days no rust, down size quantity's to suit
  8. 1 point
    As to the younger generations "disposable income", from what I've seen, a lot of young'uns make good money, but the problem is they want EVERYTHING now and not wait. They (married couple or such) want that big house with two sinks in the master bathroom and stainless appliances and granite countertops, and that nice new car to drive....so they're in over their heads from day one, so now BOTH have to work jobs and long hours. When I started out, I bought a small house and fixed it up. Later, sold it and moved to a bigger house, and so on, building as we went, not starting out with it ALL. They'd have more disposable income if they didn't try to buy everything perfect the first time out....
  9. 1 point
    Never tried this myself and not sure if it will work for epoxy or other automotive products but I've always wondered how good it works. I put mine on craigslist under "FREE" and it's usually gone in the first 1/2 hour each time. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-3-5-oz-Waste-Away-Paint-Hardener-for-Paint-Disposal-2134/100149311
  10. 1 point
    1936 Pierce Arrow Ad View the full article
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I just couldn't pull the trigger so we got a neighbor to take Old Paint to the glue factory. I don't think the Old Grey Mare has long either.
  14. 1 point
    Went a little farther with the stiffeners on my 1939 convert, turnbuckles. Fabricated them myself with thread rod, nuts, scrap iron and some black iron pipe. One end is made from left hand thread rod. Didn't weld them to the structure but made simple mounting brackets and bolted everything in. Thought they might come in handy when it came time to fit up the doors. Leveled the frame on the floor and installed them prior to removing body mounts. Had some motivation, there is 1939 convert not far from me that was cobbled so bad that the owner has stopped work on it, unrepairable in his opinion. The floorboard and cowl were replaced, the body openings were not properly jigged up and he can't fit doors to the openings. It has stiffeners welded in but I don't know how the process went down. Attached a few photos. Questions answered upon request. Bob H
  15. 1 point
    I use reverse electrolysis, just a big tub of water with washing soda in it, some reo bar (anything steel works) and a battery (I keep a charger on it as well)
  16. 1 point
    I use evaporust for most of my small parts but for the larger parts i use a 55 gal plastic drum with a molasses mixture of 10-1. 5 gals of molasses feed grade ($35.00)total last batch. I use the liquid from agway. Works much better in warm weather so i put it in a heated shed. It does smell and will attract unwanted guests. George
  17. 1 point
    Antique cars are a great hobby, keeping people mentally and physically active. So our older members, staying involved, are much less likely to need a rest home!
  18. 1 point
    Some brands of seals (in many locations on the vehicle) have seals with the seal section moved slightly away from the contact point on the shaft being sealed. It still installs as normal, just the actual seal section is moved just far enough inboard (usually) to put it on untouched metal. NOT sure if that's available for your particular application, though, or which brands might do that. What you might do is to get the affected area "dressed" such that no edges exist which might damage the new seal. Then see how tightly a new seal fits it. If it still looks "tight", you might sneak by that way. Such wear grooves are not uncommon, though. What about the bearing surface on the axle shaft? I'd be MORE concerned about that area of the axle shaft!! When we did medium-duty trucks, we had a machine shop who would re-weld the damaged bearing surface and then machine the built-up area to factory specs. Key point is to make sure the repaired area has the same hardness as the factory shaft had when new! Usually took a couple of days, but less expensive than a new shaft. NTX5467
  19. 1 point
    May I remind if you use a torch, heat gun, or oven cleaner..make sure you have appropriate ventilation or respiratory protection.
  20. 1 point
    Agreed, you don't need to disassemble front sheet metal, but I do suggest you keep fan bolted to water pump during removal or replacement. Getting those pesky bolts lined up through fan and pulley and then threaded into water pump bolt flange with everything else installed caused me to loose a lot of religion and change my opinion about my intelligence. Just sayin'! If worried about damage to radiator fins during install cover radiator or surrounding metal with cardboard and have help lifting it into place. Disconnect water pump with fan attached then damaged radiator. Reinstall radiator, then water pump with again fan attached. If it doesn't seem logical, go ahead and try it the other way, hee, hee!
  21. 1 point
    Quote Aaron "The other carb has a 1 1/16" venturi; that one is (I believe) a 725s, so they are NOT the same casting numbers. From everything I've been able to find, however, all WCDs should have the same accelerator pumps, but it sounds like it's not that simple! " End quote. Aaron - Carter type WCD carbs were used on engines from 195 CID to 427 CID. The larger engines require a larger pump shot. Carter accomplished different pump shots by: (a) different diameter pumps, and (b) different length pumps. Changing either changes the volume of fuel in the pump well to be displaced by the pump. As mentioned previously, this was a tuning "trick" used by the racers, and some enthusiasts with deep pockets raced Allards with Cad engines, using WCD carbs. Jon.
  22. 1 point
    I think cleaning it, to get back to the original finish. Is a good thing. If you pull a original car from a barn, you would clean and detail it. To show it's original finish in the best light. There is a difference between original condition and dirty.
  23. 1 point
    John, I was hoping you found some better than those I tried. Drive it and adjust often. Pull drums and check wear pattern...if not at least 3/4 contact, get a brake caliper to check you drums. If the shoes perform better when hot (mine stopped like a beast when very hot and driven hard), but still hard to stop when cold, you have the same Raybestos junk (or equivalent). If you get some specified linings installed, it is best to have the drums turned and the shoes arced to fit. I never had this much trouble many years ago where I installed some cheapest Western Auto shoes on scored and tapered drums...they were a little squirrelly at first but settled to perform until worn out again. Willie
  24. 1 point
    I so appreciate that John! Finished up dinner with friends tonight and we were talking about how it would be nice to go for ice cream in the Buick again. Yes that is the new goal, get on the road and enjoy her.
  25. 1 point
    I've always been told that over the counter shoes aren't that great but I wouldn't know the difference. I also use the shoes from NAPA without issue.