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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/2016 in all areas

  1. Been catching up on a few other projects around the shop but I'm back on the Packard now. We've been finishing up our new paint room, the owner of the '55 International was in town a few weeks ago so he brought it back to have seatbelts installed, plus we started back on the Model T firetruck project. I've cut out 90% of the bracing, its no longer needed now that it can hold itself together again. I did make bolt-in braces that mount in the door jambs since the body will have to come back off the frame later on. I also finished the lead work on the upper quarter panels. Got it
    2 points
  2. Burned two new chips today, my first ones. One for 30# injectors already installed in engine, with some programming changes, and with that appearing to be successful, the second for the 24# Bosch Type III"s with similar changes: TCC lockup speed, corrected speedometer, raised idle speed, cooling fan cut-in temp, etc... Changed back to the Type III's to match. Time will tell with some driving to see how it all works out. Looks good so far.
    2 points
  3. The felt arrived yesterday from Grainger - one day shipping, so I can't complain. I ordered 1/16th inch high-density wool made for seals and polishing and it was very thick and dense when it arrived. It also has a backing sheet which turned out to be a bonus. I cut a strip of the correct width from the 12X12 sheet. It took four passes with a new, and very sharp Exacto blade to cut through. This is tough stuff. The wool tucked into the channel very nicely. I didn't need any glue, I just pushed it in firmly as I edged around the channel and it stayed in with no pr
    1 point
  4. Dave, I too checked to see how much it would cost but I chose the # to buy to be 2. So 2@ $8.80=$17.60 Plus 11.00 for S&H= $28.60. Just shy of 30 bux. A lot to spend on the wrong part. I'm sure I can send them back but of course I'd have to pay $11.00 to return them. Plus, I believe Car id charges a 15% restocking fee that would only be about $2.64, So, for a grand total of $13.64 we can see it they are the correct ones. Why order two, you ask? Well... if on the off chance they send the ones we can use, I wouldn't have to pay another $11.00 for the shipping of another one
    1 point
  5. Probably right Ben. All I can say is they had more snow and Ice than my area last year. No telling if or when that may happen again.
    1 point
  6. I just tried to find out what it would cost to get it delivered. $11.00 freight on top of $8.80 makes it just under $20.00. I'm passing as I have an extra set that I bought from Jim Finn in backstock. There are a number of Rivs out at Gibson's that I will look at this fall when the weather is cooler and I feel more like crawling under a car The "free" ones that the one poster found may not work real long as the two pieces join in the middle where the rubbing and moving of the sway bar will be. But it is a start on an answer and the price was right. Installation is certainly a lo
    1 point
  7. Following the link provided I found what looks like what we need for the rear sway bars on our cars. Even though the page says it is for the Front Strut Rod Bushing -1990 Buick Reatta, I connected with Amanda through the Live Chat function on their site anyway. A transcript of that chat follows: Here is the transcript you requested: System[5:50 AM] Hello John! You are now being connected to CARiD LiveChat. Please wait while we connect you to a Product Specialist. System[5:50 AM] Thank you for waiting. You are now chatting with Amanda. Amanda Lisov 886[5:50 AM] H
    1 point
  8. The # rating of the injectors is the flow rate. The fuel pressure is stock. The only reason for the larger injectors is to match the target hp. range expected. Not needed for stock or mild changes such as a different intake filter configuration or opening up the rear manifold restriction, modern cat. etc.. The stock flow rate of about 19#/hr work just fine and the type 3's "should" work even better. I do have a larger Walbro pump that was installed many years ago for one of my previous turbo experiments, lack of fuel in a boosted engine is sure death. Not needed unless substantial changes to o
    1 point
  9. Snow load in Newport News?? Pretty small chance, I would think. Ben
    1 point
  10. It drove me crazy seeing the car getting rained on for another 2 years. The minute I was able to save a little money plus a coupon, I purchased a carport. This will have to do till I can build a garage. Progression non-the-less!
    1 point
  11. Moved the car to the driveway about a month later. It was around this time my wife and I learned we were going to have another baby. So naturally I wouldn't do much with the car for the next 2 years except to occasionally start it and let run for a few minutes. Other than that, I would also occasionally sit in the car to just touch it, smell it and imagine her being all done.
    1 point
  12. Both front quarter panels would be next. Pulling these off were a little difficult. I advise pulling the doors off first, which would give easy access to the panel bolts. However, I do not have a garage big enough to fit my car in and I did not want expose my good interior parts to outside elements. So, I just had to tough it out and be patient.Just be sure to look for anything along the edges of the quarter panel when removing all bolts. Do not forget that there is something to unbolt at the most bottom, rear portion of the panel.Showing both quarter panels removed. Decided to leave sig
    1 point
  13. My PM on this project has been out on maternity leave so yeah I have been there a lot the past 12 weeks. She came back today, so I am there Friday and then again Monday, but probably not a lot again until end of the year. Oh and by the way my contractor has not pulled any Buicks or parts out of the ground (not even a Pontiac or an Olds), unfortunately... no comment on the master developer...
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. Friends, The major struggle here and now is whether I should take out the torque converter and have it cut and re calibrated for 4,000 rpm stall to engage the turbos sooner. This represents a significant investment in time and unraveling the complexity of wiring too. You can hear the wastegates open about 2.5-3 sec after launch as boost pressure is reached. The goal is to have the boost assist right at launch. This would practically assure us the big Buick Electra record in the 1/4 mile. Here is the alternative plan, cheaper and faster. I put in a balance tube and bloc
    1 point
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