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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/14/2016 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    I will continue the off topic discussion. Whether or not something is authentic or original, if it is in good shape, I would spend my money elsewhere until the seats REALLY needed to be replaced or REALLY bothered me.
  2. 4 points
    don't get concept of trying to keep people out of show area.
  3. 3 points
    Thanks for the support - been a couple long days and too pooped to post! Summary of where we are at: Couple of setbacks - The engine mounts from CARS did not fit. They are .080 too narrow on the installation studs, and when "modified" so they could fit, instead of the ears pointing at the 12 and 6 oclock positions like factory they pointed inwards at a 1 to 7 oclock position on the driver side, and 11 to 5 oclock position on the passenger side. They were correctly installed left and right - simple could not get them to line up to the engine block brackets. I had to put the old mounts back in - heres factory followed by the ones from CARS: A flywheel to toque converter bolt got stripped out and had to drill that puppy out. And had to carefully remove the old exhaust in case it needed to be reused. Note all the beat marks in the old system to make it fit: The oil pressure was solid: This is always a high risk maneuver - had about an inch clearance from the top of the cherry picker to the garage door: Some 2 inch bolts with the heads cut off served as guide pins and keeps any leverage weight off the hub on the torque converter: The engine would not go the final 1/4 inch no way no how which ironically seemed to be the exact thickness of the heads on the torque converter bolts. Doh! Line up the holes, goofball. A dab of paint on the flywheel at disassembly matched to a corresponding paint dab on the torque converterhelped to line up the holes perfectly. A little Vegemite on the the bolts and the engine and bell housing jumped together with no effort. Back in the saddle: The new exhaust fit perfectly. I left the Y pipes in the car and the engine and manifolds were set in on top. The system was left loose all the way back to allow for some final adjustment. I need to weld a hanger on the frame to hang the front of the muffler to. That and buttoning up the under car work is todays job, then its engine compartment work. Before putting the engine in the distributor shaft and oil pump shaft were aligned and noted where true TDC on #1 cylinder was so that after spinning the engine to get the flywheel bolts on would not loose the true TDC position (prevent the distributor from being 180 degrees out). The distributor prior to removal was marked at the 6 and 12 o clock positions on the distributor housing to align in a straight line with the valley pan bolts, another mark to initially align the rotor prior to dropping in the distributor, and a final rotor alignment mark so that when the distributor is fully inserted and the rotor rotates to follow the helical cam gear it will point to the correct #1 plug in the cap. That should be good enough to start it. If things go well today and tomorrow should have light off..... well, soon.
  4. 3 points
    BCA # 5168 here, and my first Bugle was the November, 1975 issue. The issue included an article written by Bob Alberini -- "Century to Centurion" -- and I mailed him a letter in response to the article. I first met Bob at the Buick 75th Anniversary national meet in Flint, 1978, and look forward to seeing him once again in Allentown. I was a first year graduate student when I joined the BCA -- a Christmas gift from Mom and Dad. I obtained information about joining from the kind owner of a '58 Limited, which I test drove with hopes of buying. I never succeeded in buying that Limited, but have gained a wealth of wonderful friends through the BCA.
  5. 3 points
    Some here asked for a short film. I tried this afternoon; here is the result: https://youtu.be/bZve6r3RwuU Be indulgent, it's the first time I'm doing something like that!
  6. 3 points
    Just use big red chewing gum to patch the leak until the off season, that's how my grandfather solved a lot of his leaks.
  7. 2 points
    The good Lord smiled upon me. I kept the axle/torque tube level with the transmission using a floor jack and pulled hard. Out she came with no fanfare.
  8. 2 points
    There were several Model F two cylinder Buicks on this tour; more than any other brand of car. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DJmXnD66y1Q&feature=em-upload_owner
  9. 2 points
    No, I'm not happy. I think you were "correct" the first time, and now you've made an aftermarket change to your statement and it's less authentic. I'm trying really hard to refrain from escalating a semantics argument. I think I'll go paint some SCALLOPS on a VISOR instead...
  10. 2 points
    They may as well just shut the job down...
  11. 2 points
    First round of buffing is complete on the drivers side. I still have to hit the entire passenger side again with this. I always forget that dark colors show EVERYTHING.
  12. 1 point
    It's been mentioned previously that the only thing that appears on a Fisher Body data plate are the options that were put on the car at Fisher Body before delivery to the final assembly plant. If you're having a problem wrapping your head around this kind of statement, perhaps this picture will clarify some things for you. Here's a picture of a 1963 Riviera arriving at final assembly from Fisher body. Note that it does not have a chassis/engine and there's no front clip. But it does have all the glass and the interior installed - the things that you see on a data plate.
  13. 1 point
    "Flight Of The Arrow" is a documentary of Pierce's and Ab Jenkins' astonishing 24 hours of speed records on the Bonneville salt flats. Notice that this is a stock Pierce roadster, stripped for racing, with Pierce's new V12 engine and that it is taking records from the best European racing cars and sports cars. To put this in perspective, at the time Rolls Royce warned their customers not to drive their cars at full speed for over 5 minutes, and the Grosser Mercedes could not be driven more than 2 minutes with the supercharger engaged. The Pierce averaged 117 for 24 hours.
  14. 1 point
    The best solution for restarting your Riv after an extended period is to use a trickle charger on the battery. A little cranking to fill the float bowl will get oil moving to the bearings and in a collector car the cumulative wear on the starting system is minimal. If your car fails to start after enough cranking to fill the float bowl then there is an issue with the accelerator pump in the carb. Tom Mooney
  15. 1 point
    I have a custom rocker I made in metal shop. It's molded off my 56 4dr hardtop fits nice it's about 3ft long or so maybe 2 I used plastic to build my rockers up. So I don't need it if you're interested I'll snap a picture tomorrow.
  16. 1 point
    No sir. Only taken the nut/cap off that secure the bottom of the spring to the axle. Pulled away easy when level with the entire drive train. Pushed it back in without issue either.
  17. 1 point
    Roger, I too have been following your thread for years. The addition of the video makes your work all the more incredible. Thank you for taking the time to show the world your amazing work and I look forward to more videos in the future!
  18. 1 point
    Roger; I have been subscribed to this thread for well over a year with total amazement. The video puts a lot more into perspective with your hand showing the moving seats and windows. Amazing craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing this journey. Alex D.
  19. 1 point
    Wow! Great video. The windows work better than a 1:1 car. Nice to see the car in real time. Next video you will have to do a "walk around" and describe the entire car.
  20. 1 point
    All hail to Roger Z!!!! We are not worthy.... Your skills have continued to wow all of us and we are left in amazement!!
  21. 1 point
    Chris, just looked at mine and my alternator is clocked a 90 degrees from yours (the alternator is below the AC compressor), accounting for the differences mine is wired the same (blue is actually on top). I had some similar problems when I got my 65. I changed the original mechanical Voltage Regulator, also to a new mechanical VR, yet still had the same problem. Got a new more modern (electronic) VR from a local Autozone and the problem disappeared. The electronic VR is not has thick as the original and didn't have the DELCO mark on it, so I took the DELCO marked cover off the new mechanical VR and it screwed directly to the new electronic VF. Not only does it work, it looks like the original. Rock On gord
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Thanks John - I was surprised to get questioned at the ROA meet about if color was an original 66 Riv color and am sure some viewing this may also be wondering. It is shadow turquoise and was rather uncommon in 66 as white and earth tones were in vogue hence this was originally a light gold car. It matches the original color chip precisely........though it is shinier than original which I knowingly accepted an "over restored" condition in this area.
  25. 1 point
    I have a use for it if you don't want it, I'm not that far from you and would gladly pick it up.
  26. 1 point
    Nothing better then a clean garage floor after priming. An nothing worse then not priming and finding the huge puddle of oil on the floor after installing the engine and turning it over. Good job.
  27. 1 point
    That 56 dynaflow should be the least of your worries. They are very reliable.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    We can't guarantee it is correct, but our 60 is largely unmolested, and the wiring here looks original. Holler if you need a better shot. Thanks, HuntzNSam
  31. 1 point
    You need to make sure that no sealer of any kind comes in contact with the middle of the side of the edge of the glass where the edge of the laminate on the glass is. If you put any kind of sealer there, about two years later you will have bubbles in the laminate along the edge that protrudes past the stainless trim where you can see it. When you go to Car Shows........check for delamination on the edge when you look at the windshields.....it is very common and this is the cause. They are always talking about this in Hemmings Magazine when they cover car auctions......they'll say something like "It would have been a No.1 condition car except for the delaminating glass on the windshield." I fought this on my cars for years till I finally figured out what was causing it. Also, if you use 5/16 butyl tape and put the tape in the right place on the pinch weld, you will NOT have any butyl tape oozing along the edges on the back side. If you use 3/8 butyl tape, it is too thick and will ooze out on you no matter what you do or how careful you are.
  32. 1 point
    Finally , I am back!! The call I was waiting for came. Your STUFF is ready. So drove the Buick to the machine shop and picked up the head and "rotating assembly". Don't you like that phrase? Installed the cam this morning. Plugged the main oil galley ends. The holes for the full flow oil filter. If one is familiar with the straight eight, this is self explanatory. If not, indulge me. The bottom hole is drilled into the oil pump discharge line feeding the oil galley. The discharge line has been plugged between the holes. The top hole returns the oil to the oil galley. The filter will be remotely mounted. Somewhere!! A A couple pictures of the cam installed. How about one of the head? Like the man said, the best part is hidden beneath the valves. Late model Ch###y valves cut down with performance rated springs and keepers. Passage ways cleaned up some. Dave, the machinist who owns D&L Performance Machine, said the head will handle more cam than I have. Hoping the money was well spent. And the crank. Now the fun BEGINS! Stick around. Ben
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Sorry my friend just called .....he failed to put the car in park. Old age is setting in.....several day of worry. Thanks for everyone's help..... Lots of concerns for nothing. Jim
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Here's a few more pictures from last night (Tues) that wouldn't upload for me. The city raccoons are having a very good year. I've seen many families of 4,5,&6 of them this Spring and Summer. Pesky, but cute. Keith
  37. 1 point
    Since the 66 Riv frame off resto was finished just in time for the ROA meet last week of June, now I am putting some miles on it to test everything. First 100 miles so far so good. Fine tuning the automatic choke but other than that its running great. Pic was taken at dusk on a metal bridge over the Kiskiminatas river with a Cannon EOS Rebel and tripod.
  38. 1 point
    First course of sanding done. Headliner install halted when we found out one of the plastic rod clips was missing. Hopefully tomorrow I can finish sanding and buff this side. I still have to go back over the other side and hit the spots I missed.
  39. 1 point
    As member # 3757, looks like I just beat the 5000 cut off reported as having been displayed in the Feb 1976 Bugle. I can't recall the actual date I joined, but it was before November of 74, as I was a member before my marriage to my lovely wife. As a college Junior in 72, I was always fond of Buicks but I did not have one. Then my parents neighbor cracked up his 56 Roadmaster for the last time, and he gave it to me. In the summer of 73 it was straightened, painted and only sporting about 70K if I remember correctly. I was really proud to have a Buick finally! Then one day my brother told me he heard about a show at a place in Tarrytown, NY. It was a Saturday and we drove the Buick over. When we pulled in the parker asked if it was being entered in the show. It was really just a daily driver and I did not think it was good enough for a car show, so I opted for the parking lot. Then on the show field I was mesmerized by a 31 Buick coupe, dark royal blue body over deep glossy black fenders and the cut vases at the door post with a single red rose in each. That fellow was a member of the BCA and he gave me the information. Later as my brother and I walked around the show field he kept pointing to cars much more in need of work than my own, and he got me really cranked up to put the Roadmaster in the show. He was right. I should have entered it, but instead I thought I'd go home and doll up what I had and bring it back the next day. Imagine my surprise when I got there on Sunday and discovered it was only a one day show!!! Anyway I was hooked, and I sent in my BCA application. With my first Bugle the hook was set. When my wife and I were married I asked to have her name put on the membership and it was done. Linda has been on the roster as a member ever since. I was a very lucky guy to have married her. She kept us as members for many years, and we attended Flint in 75 and Sandusky Oh in 1981. Still have the sticker on the windshield from the 81 event. But for a few years beginning in 1983, when my kids were in grade school and sports/scouts etc, I lapsed. After a while though we rejoined and were pleasantly surprised to get our number back. And we've been constant since 1988 or so. It's been a fun Club for me, and we love attending the National Meets. Have been on a run since Concord NC in 2012. Hope to keep active for a long time to come.
  40. 1 point
    I phoned this morning for some additional information. The cars are located in central Florida, and are being sold by the estate of a deceased hobbyist. For the few cars I asked about, I found the cars to be realistically priced! And the seller was sincere and forthright about the cars, wanting to get them into the homes of hobbyists. If you're a car enthusiast looking for another vehicle, you couldn't ask for a better situation.
  41. 1 point
    That makes sense that Robert Bourke did the design of the '53 Studebaker and Loewy took the credit. Bourke had a lot to do with the '49 Ford design that was very good looking.
  42. 1 point
    It was in the early 1980s when I first saw this car on High Street, Lower Hutt, New Zealand.. It was being housed at the front of a used car dealers yard in a large glass display case. The car was the subject of widely reported news items then as it is now that it is being made availabe again for purchase at auction. Its claim to fame is the almost unbeleivable 74 miles it has traveled since new. After learning of this beauties existance and after an initial reaction of wonder and marvel at this grand old dame without a feeling that follows of some sadness that it is really an oddity to be closeted away for its value to increase and its potential to be realized as a prudent investment by whom ever becomes the car's current custodian and in that respect is much like any other comodity investment. However unigue this car is, it is unlikely to become much more than a curiosity for anybody out side of the circle of profit taking. Let's hypothesize for a moment and consider a situation where this car was part of a well known collection, one say, like Leno or Petersen in Los Angeles or similar collections of automobiles housed in most any other state in the Union that have been restored back to original condition or better or have survived the years and time has been gentle on them. The '58 Studebaker Champion would attract no more interest or importance attached to it than that of any other car produced by a once great auto builder with a proud heritage that at the time of its manufacture was soon to become but a memory to spend its days as though time has stood still.for it. Then latter to asume an elevated status as a curiosity bought about by a peculiar quirk of human nature where love in vain caused a broken heart of its first owner and this classic to be cocooned and lifeless for the next thirty years with its original purpise unfullrfilled. If this car could be personified it would surely evoke a kind of sweet melancholy that an automobile such as this should be viewed only because of its extrodinarily low odometer reading.
  43. 1 point
    Finally got some sun on that paint...love this color!
  44. 1 point
    Hope you find a nice one, Taher. Actually, a 1955 Buick 4-door hardtop will be harder to find than a convertible or 2-door hardtop. The 4-door hardtops are beautiful cars, reasonably priced, but for some reason people focus their attention on the other body styles. Will this be your first antique car? Are you aware of price guides, so you have a way to judge asking prices? Sometimes asking prices are so optimistic--even double a car's value--that they are discouraging. But keep up the search, and a car may be available many months after you first see its for-sale ad!
  45. 1 point
    Sheet metal, at last! A long time ago - too long! - I bought some sheets of 3003 aluminum, 0.050" thick for the body. This past week, I started on the front sheet metal. The lower side panels for the engine compartment were first because they are basically flat. The bottom edges are hemmed to provide a little stiffness. The top edges got a Z-shaped bend to allow the lower edge of the hinged hood to slide into something that would hold it. The left side I made completely by hand with a couple of hammers and dollies, folding the hemmed edge over the edge of a 1/8th inch thick steel plate. The Z fold was difficult by hand, but it came out OK. For the right side, I got a little smarter: I called up my buddy with a 52" wide sheet metal brake and invited myself over for a visit. The hemmed edge was done in 5 minutes. We were able to get the brake to fold the first part of the Z about 90 degrees and the second one just a little more. I took the sheet home, shoved a piece of 1/8" flat stock into the crook of the Z and used the English wheel to flatten the Z while still leaving enough of a groove for the lip of the hood. The lip will be offset about 1/8" so the outer surfaces of the hood and side panel will be flush. I cut a long slot with rounded ends to allow the panel to got over the exhaust manifold, then hand-hammered a 3/8" wide flange all around for stiffness. I got one side of the hood pretty well finished this morning. It's the first piece I really ever made on an English wheel, so I spent a lot of time swapping lower dies to get the curvature right. The back edge of the hood has a 6" radius curve while the front edge at the radiator shell has a 3" radius. The right and left hood pieces get joined by a long continuous hinge with removable pin. The side panels get rows of 2.5" louvers, 18 to a row. I have located an old-style hot rod custom shop that will punch the louvers for me. One more hood piece to go! I ordered a 3X rivet gun kit with bucking bars from Aircraft Tool and Supply and a selection of universal head aluminum rivets in 5/32 and 3/16 shank diameter. The rivets will join the hinges to the hood pieces and attach the rest of the skin to 1" aluminum angle to attach to the frame rails. There are several hundred rivets to be set. I wonder what I'll have to give my wife to get her to hold the rivet buck for me?
  46. 1 point
    How about member # 2098. I was a member of the original BCCA (Buick Collectors Club of America) back in 1963. I joined the BCCA after I bought my '41 Buick (which I still own), which was my daily driver during my senior year at General Motors Institute (GMI, now Kettering University) in Flint, MI. (How I ended up with a '41 Buick as my daily driver is another story). A year after the BCCA died in 1965, I got an invitation in the mail to join a new club, the BCA. I didn't join right away, since I wanted to make sure that the new club was going to survive (looks like it did!). I did finally join the BCA, around 1967. Attached are a couple of photo's of my '41 at a GMI car show put on by the college car club (the Firebirds) in 1964. I won first place in the stock sedan class (of course there were only two cars in that class!). As you can see, the car show was in the old gymnasium. The other photo is a picture of the '41 at a local park in 1964, when I was dating my future wife (on the left). We celebrated our 50th wedding anniversary last year!
  47. 1 point
    Wow, Dug this out of the Archives LynnLovesCars. No Idea what milage is on my 1915. My 1982 Riv Ragtop has 123,763. My 1996 Buick Century Custom has 89,573. Had 37,000 on it when I bought it off of eBay for $1,800. I guess I got my money's worth. A few minor problems with it through the years but overall it had been, and still is, a good car. And I see this is your first post, Welcome aboard. Dandy Dave!
  48. 1 point
    Biting off one panel at a time
  49. 1 point
    If you have the old gasket and it's no good, cut a small section out to see the profile, then you should be able to find a gasket that might work. Restoration Specialties as well as other parts houses carry bulk profiles to make your own gaskets.