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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/07/2016 in all areas

  1. With two sets of wheels, second set (originals) has gold Riviera centers. Less than 50K miles.
    3 points
  2. That sounds like another fun adventure! To me it still looks harder to take some of these vehicles with no floors or quarter panels, brace the body and put it all back together, make the creases fit, lay down glass paint. That level of talent and perseverance is impressive. If this is even a hint at what blueprinting an engine is like it must require infinite patience. Not giving up on Allentown with this engine yet. These parts are just going to leap together in no time. I can feel it...... might be painting it in the parking lot
    3 points
  3. There is some good advise here and if the owner is to lazy to at minimum pull the heads he isn't listening. Certainly possible that the item has passed thru but he is asking for confirmation. Which can not be given until he pulls the engine down. I am one of those guys that has pulled engines down at the track with some success. This is not the best conditions at a dirt track, so the luxury of being at his own shop should not pose much of a problem with yanking the thing apart. So my bottom line is either run it or tear it down and quit being so lazy. Sorry, but that
    3 points
  4. Thanks for the heads up on the intake manifold. Also the dash is a deep red lavender.
    2 points
  5. Think I will stick with the Straight Eight!! Ben
    2 points
  6. so I was just thinking that if it was a harbor freight allen wrench it probably dissolved when gas fumes hit it. But seriously a soft steal tool the size of a 2mm or even a 3mm allen wrench could have been chopped up into little bits and shot out the exhaust without doing much if any to valve or seat. As long as the allen wrench was soft steal. A compression test is the easiest way to check. A lighted scope or mini cam will show the top of a piston which would be the softest part in the engine and that would show if anything ever went through that cylinder.
    2 points
  7. Oh for cryin' out loud! This thread is making me crazy!!!! First, don't expect sound advice from anyone who hasn't ever rebuilt an engine. They are only guessing. Your first stop should have been to your local machine shop for advice before firing the engine but that's all behind you now. I spent years as a GM heavy line tech (in layman's term that means engine & transmission). There is NO WAY the allen wrench made it through the valve. Consider this: On fire up, if the engine only ran at 800 RPM that means the valves also opened and closed 800 times in the first
    2 points
  8. A/C fixed Blowing 41 degrees out the vent. Almost cold enough o hang meat or your favorite meat subsitute. On to the front wheel bearings, they both looked like they had never been changed. One side was bad bad bad, so they are both getting changed. I may make it to Allentown....
    2 points
  9. Not the weekend, but I brought the Wildcat in from the country today to give her the once over before we start the long drive east in 2.5 weeks. Before beginning the drive I put the chrome wheels with radials on.
    2 points
  10. If you can't slide a piece of #10 wire through the hose it is probably delaminated. Bernie
    2 points
  11. Started her up after doing some carb adjustments. Decided to run down the street and get some gas (since I ran out Sunday). Car rides nice, idles around the housing area in second. Its alot softer than I expected but its smooth. No vibrations, but the passenger exhaust is knocking on the frame somewhere. The gas gauge is far from accurate, the turn signals have quit working. but it moves under its own power and I got up to 40 mph. Left in the drive way for some pics.
    1 point
  12. Scold? I just wrote a scathing reply but did not send it. But yes I'll scold. The 1941 Buick Limited is not only the pinnacle of Buick production....and I'd go so far as to say before or after the War. But, it is a Full Classic and recognized as such by the Classic Car Club of America. There are very few models of Buick that currently hold that title, and the Series 80 and 90 are the only ones at this time. It is not just said to be rare, it is actually very rare. If somebody wants to modify, why don't they pick some more plentiful car, not destroy a rare Full Classic. They don't make t
    1 point
  13. Yes, my idea is restore the two Supers.Both of them run,but the white one the floor is really bad and I will need a lot of time to restore it The one I'm working now it's in very good shape. Today I put the starter back and the car idle for about 10 minutes,..... very happy!! First time in three years......tomorrow I will put the gas tank back, it's cleaned and painted, replace the ignition parts(tuneup)and rebuild the fuel lines to connect it to the rebuild fuel pump and I hope the car will be running next week!! Also I need to replace the engine and transmission mounts, replace oil and trans
    1 point
  14. Don't mean to scare you Jens, but a few years ago my diff. started with a "singing" noise when coming off the gas also. Turned out to be a very expensive song !
    1 point
  15. Thanks everyone. And to Matt, you have good eyes to notice the upholstery!! That will be changing as soon as I can afford it, though it's in nice shape and I hate to waste it, but I know it's not correct. The car is for mine and my hubby's enjoyment, but it would be fun to get some judging points on er while still doing what we want. I have light and wiring ready to go, doors and back hatch are ready and some really neat trim too. I'll post her pictures again when the trailer is ready to go on the road.
    1 point
  16. I'm glad to see my comments are read, even singled out. I wrote to experience the car for 20 or 30 years.. How long have the forum members owned their cars? I'm in my 38th year with one and my 16th with another. Even a year or two of doing the things that will be needed whichever way the car goes is not unrealistic or ridiculous. If fact it is pretty smart to schmooze up to that big ark before that long relationship with "My Mechanic" starts. My grocery money comes from a place other than cars and the long haul (I just looked in the refrigerator so I must be doing something right),
    1 point
  17. If you're looking for a local cruise-in for Saturday evening, Mopar Madness is having a cruise night in Trexlertown, PA in front of Hobby Lobby, 7150 Hamilton Blvd. Trexlertown, 5:00 PM-8:00 PM. It gets crowded so come early. Lots of eateries and shopping there too.
    1 point
  18. Let's take this one point at a time. He removed the intake and spent several hours, looking in each port for the offending Allen key. Nothing was found. Next point. Is he sure that he dropped the key into the manifold? Evidently, he is sure that he did. Next, can an Allen key pass through an intake port and valve? Unlikely, given the shape of the tool and the geometry around the port/valve area and the amount of valve lift. Moving on, if the key did, somehow, make it's way into the combustion chamber, would this be a benign occurrence? Almost without question, very bad things would happen. It
    1 point
  19. Meguiar's PlastX will bring out the shine when used with a slow speed buffer. Double sided tape would have been a better choice for installing the letters.. They are getting hard to find. You want to use yours in a different taillight someday.
    1 point
  20. I know that one can buy products that deliver a hard finish. That might be good for wheels but in my opinion not for taillights. Aerosols are products that are fast drying and typically harder finishes then what one can get with brush on products. In the paint/varnish industry the longer a product takes to dry the more flexibility it has to withstand temperature changes. The substrate [in this case the taillight] still has some expansion/contraction due to temperature/sunlight changes. The harder a finish is the more likely it is to crack or check as it wears. That is why I chose the oil
    1 point
  21. Thank you for the replies. Based on the estimated value, I think he did well on the labor for the swap. I think he would be further ahead selling as is rather than putting a bunch of time and cost into it to try to turn a higher profit. Hopefully I can get him to list it in the forum. Scott
    1 point
  22. I used to be a paint salesman as well as a paint sundry representative so I have some experience in this. There are a number of brands that you could try. I recommend a solvent based gloss spar varnish which is what I used. I had the Flecto brand in the house so I just grabbed it. The Flecto Verathane Spar varnish is correct. However Flecto is now owned by Rust oleum. I went to their website and saw that they only offer a semi gloss. I did look at Minwax's website and saw they make a spar varnish under the "Helmsman" name. It comes in different sheens in both water based and solvent base
    1 point
  23. I owned a boat dealership for many years and this is a similar situation to one of my pet peeves. A customer will call up and ask what is wrong with his boat engine. It cant be fixed over the phone and he cant hold it close enough to the phone for me to see it. These forums are filled with well meaning guys that will offer up the best advice that they can. However they cant fix any problems over the web, just give advice. And for free like the guy with his boat is asking for. With all that in mind the forum will be a better place to seek advice as the guys on here aren't tr
    1 point
  24. My head is swimming with stuff I wish I understood. Get the two Kens together and start K&K Nailhead pros.
    1 point
  25. The OP isn't looking for advice. He is looking for confirmation of his belief that the engine simply ate that hardened Allen wrench and will cause no further harm. We all know the only sensible course of action is a tear down of the engine. It's up to him to take our advice or not
    1 point
  26. Unless there is a problem with the antenna, he'll get better reception with that vintage tube radio than any modern AM radio.
    1 point
  27. Hey, I'm a big boy. Over the years I've heard and given much criticism, get over it. If you live long enough in this game, you will too. And before any of you think my post was a little too direct, RE-READ THE OP's THREAD TITLE! hammer280, No attitude intended. Like I said, I've seen this type of thing many times, it happens to novices and top flight techs. My concern was more about some of the advice you were getting. Of course everyone is entitled to their opinion. Even me. I have been inside a couple thousand engines over my career. More than most here so, while there are qualified op
    1 point
  28. Ed, I was luke warm on heading down to the Orlando Area to look at the Seagrave, but since you show an interest ... THE MISSION IS ON! I'll keep you in the loop and let you know what I find. If I'm able to acquire it, there will be no trouble for me to keep the engine until November. There will be no profit involved except you might owe me the purchase price ... plus a beer. Cheers, Grog
    1 point
  29. Before you assume you are the ONLY qualified person to answer.....the first person that replied was an ASE mechanic for decades. And you are totally wrong that an object cannot pass a valve and seat without ruining either. I have seen it. And if you "rebuilt" so many engines, surely you must have seen at least one piston in your long career, that had old battle damage from ingesting an object. To end that debate we need to hear from a life long engine machinist...they will surely confirm seeing old damage on piston tops, on engines that still ran fine.
    1 point
  30. Years ago, my brother was drilling new holes in the hood of a Jenson-Healy to install an original hood emblem and broke the drill bit. A few months later it showed up in the top of the piston.
    1 point
  31. Interior is in now for the exhaust. That should be a lot of fun!!
    1 point
  32. Hope this deal works out well for both of you. Deals like this are a nice flash back to how the hobby was in the 1960's. Bob
    1 point
  33. Two completely different transmissions from the '22 and the'30 In the early DB trans the cluster does not rotate in top gear and because that is stationary it is why you get clashing or crunching (Aussie Terminology) on the down shift In the '30 trans the cluster rotates all the time There seems to be some confusion in regards to the lube that is used Early DBs with the pre S A E gear shift pattern use the very heavy oil I have put 85/140 in the trans of my Senior and that was done just to give the gears a coat of lube When I get closer with the completion of the restoration I will replace al
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. Proceed I did. Slightly. NOT over the long weekend, though. Tuesday morning I took a copy of the cam card to the machine shop so they can finish the head. Came home and proceeded to drill holes in the block. Kinda sorta. I decided a long time ago to modify the oil system into a full flow filtering system. So, therefore, drill some holes!! Pictures later. Now ,if I can get myself organized, on to assembly. Head should be completed this week, Hopefully the rotating assembly will be balanced as well. Then throw it together!! Ben
    1 point
  36. Greetings! There are plenty of old posts on this topic if you can figure out how to search. I went with Ed Raner's recommendation: Hankook 225/75/15 for about $100 each. I can't complain.
    1 point
  37. Alemite still makes this type of fitting so they are not rare or hard to find. The fittings from the open box are 1/16 NPT which are not used much anymore but are still available. I believe that even the new fittings are plated and are a bit shinier than the older ones but they all turn gray after awhile. Some are now plated in yellow zinc. You can still buy the original pin type fittings as well. They might sell for a couple of bucks a box.
    1 point
  38. Very common grease fittings use right up until manufacturers started using permanently lubricated bearings. These appear to be plated; maybe for marine use? They may be of more value to someone restoring an old garage needing some parts inventory for display.
    1 point
  39. Actually the rate has gone up. I got $175 a day recently for a movie. I drove it in costume and got paid minimum scale of $51, so the car is worth more than I am.
    1 point
  40. Article from circa 2009 http://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hcc/2009/10/Rain-Man-Ryan-s-Ride---1949-Buick-Roadmaster/2108691.html article from 2012 http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/11/29/definitely-an-excellent-car-rain-man-buick-heads-to-auction/ article from 2015 http://mashable.com/2015/12/18/rain-man-buick-roadmaster/#VkzyQWibyiqq
    1 point
  41. About two years and 2000/3000 hours. Did 4 and I'm sick of it..............Bob
    1 point
  42. I disagree that anyone was scolding him. I don't care what he does with his car, but he's got a big project ahead of him, he hasn't even driven the car, and I'm guessing that someone put a bug in his ear that the modifications he describes are mandatory to be able to drive any old car. I think that's a mistake and I think that's largely what's feeding the "resto-mod" trend--guys who know nothing about old cars being told what to do by shops with experience doing it only one way: Chevy crate motor and 12-volt wiring. I also think that if you're starting a project you should set goal
    1 point
  43. Looking at the photo links of your cars, and looking at the under hood photos, I see what is all too common, modern parts and incorrect hardware, and along with the issue of non authentic judging issues and improper parts causing additional problems like a wrong distributor, modern wiring and wires, ect,ect,ect it is usually an indication of people who are not familiar working on pre wars cars, which compounds every issue they try to address, usually not solving the problem, but adding to it. Fact is most all (95%) of pre war cars are not set up correctly or dialed in. I spend most of my time
    1 point
  44. Here is a picture of how she sits now AJ with the chrome being original and all I did was clean it up and put it on the grill. The black you see is an epoxy primer the previous owner put on it.
    1 point
  45. Most dynaflows will clunk more going into reverse. There are high and low accumulators which cushion the engagement into D and L.
    1 point
  46. Ya, 140 for a single speed. I know a guy out east that has an early Dual Ratio he would like to sell. It makes a huge difference in the drive-ability of the car.
    1 point
  47. Been working on a few projects but this is the current update. Turbo down pipe. Waldrons did a exhaust system for me. I was not happy with the flanges they made and I was able to get a correct flange from Jensen racing. Waldrons was able to install it on the pipe they made. Came out great and they are a pleasure to work with!! Interior and rugs Installed the rugs, console and interior. More to go but starting to shape up. My son has been under the dash trying to get the lights, wiper and electrical systems working. A few photos below of progress.
    1 point
  48. The newest COLLECTIBLE AUTOMOBILE magazine (August 2016) has a interview (Personality Profile) with David R North GM designer and there are some Riviera & Reatta pictures of prototypes. There is an early rendering of '63 cars which includes a wild Buick convertible, the only hint that it is a Buick are the portholes. It is a good read with some insite into how GM design worked.
    1 point
  49. I don't look in here very often. I have owned a number of Dodge 4's but I prefer the later 1927-8 engines. The improved crankshaft makes them much smoother and safer at higher revs. There are lots of little tricks to improve the output of these engines. While the gearboxes are slow to change down you really only need to change out of top if you hit a wall. The last "Flying Four" was good for 70-75 mph and with a lot less weight to pull up the two wheel brakes were almost adequate.
    1 point
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