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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/07/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    With two sets of wheels, second set (originals) has gold Riviera centers. Less than 50K miles.
  2. 3 points
    That sounds like another fun adventure! To me it still looks harder to take some of these vehicles with no floors or quarter panels, brace the body and put it all back together, make the creases fit, lay down glass paint. That level of talent and perseverance is impressive. If this is even a hint at what blueprinting an engine is like it must require infinite patience. Not giving up on Allentown with this engine yet. These parts are just going to leap together in no time. I can feel it...... might be painting it in the parking lot
  3. 3 points
    There is some good advise here and if the owner is to lazy to at minimum pull the heads he isn't listening. Certainly possible that the item has passed thru but he is asking for confirmation. Which can not be given until he pulls the engine down. I am one of those guys that has pulled engines down at the track with some success. This is not the best conditions at a dirt track, so the luxury of being at his own shop should not pose much of a problem with yanking the thing apart. So my bottom line is either run it or tear it down and quit being so lazy. Sorry, but that's my take.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks for the heads up on the intake manifold. Also the dash is a deep red lavender.
  5. 2 points
    Think I will stick with the Straight Eight!! Ben
  6. 2 points
    so I was just thinking that if it was a harbor freight allen wrench it probably dissolved when gas fumes hit it. But seriously a soft steal tool the size of a 2mm or even a 3mm allen wrench could have been chopped up into little bits and shot out the exhaust without doing much if any to valve or seat. As long as the allen wrench was soft steal. A compression test is the easiest way to check. A lighted scope or mini cam will show the top of a piston which would be the softest part in the engine and that would show if anything ever went through that cylinder.
  7. 2 points
    Oh for cryin' out loud! This thread is making me crazy!!!! First, don't expect sound advice from anyone who hasn't ever rebuilt an engine. They are only guessing. Your first stop should have been to your local machine shop for advice before firing the engine but that's all behind you now. I spent years as a GM heavy line tech (in layman's term that means engine & transmission). There is NO WAY the allen wrench made it through the valve. Consider this: On fire up, if the engine only ran at 800 RPM that means the valves also opened and closed 800 times in the first minute or approximately 130 times in the first 10 seconds. Faster and more precise than any jackhammer. Now consider what more than likely happened on start up: The engine was revved up to 3,000 RPM, which means the valves opened and closed 3,000 times or 500 times in the first 10 seconds. Anything attempting travel through the narrow valve opening would be hit hundreds of times in just that small area smashing it and the valve to pieces. There would be no doubt about it passing through the valve. I have seen the results of pieces, parts, etc. having been dropped down the carb, making their way into the intake runner and then someone firing the engine in the hopes that it would "just clear itself out." It NEVER worked. It took, at minimum, the valve and seat out every single time. Sometimes much worse, piston and even cylinder walls. I would venture, with all certainty, that your allen wrench did not get into your intake, but rather got hung up in the carb or perhaps didn't even get into the carb in the first place but fell somewhere else. It happens. Me? I would have ceased all work until the wretched little tool had been found, (which I have done) but that's all academic now. You've not only run the car but run it hard since this mishap. I'd look elsewhere for your high speed miss. Good luck, Greg
  8. 2 points
    A/C fixed Blowing 41 degrees out the vent. Almost cold enough o hang meat or your favorite meat subsitute. On to the front wheel bearings, they both looked like they had never been changed. One side was bad bad bad, so they are both getting changed. I may make it to Allentown....
  9. 2 points
    Not the weekend, but I brought the Wildcat in from the country today to give her the once over before we start the long drive east in 2.5 weeks. Before beginning the drive I put the chrome wheels with radials on.
  10. 2 points
    If you can't slide a piece of #10 wire through the hose it is probably delaminated. Bernie
  11. 1 point
    Started her up after doing some carb adjustments. Decided to run down the street and get some gas (since I ran out Sunday). Car rides nice, idles around the housing area in second. Its alot softer than I expected but its smooth. No vibrations, but the passenger exhaust is knocking on the frame somewhere. The gas gauge is far from accurate, the turn signals have quit working. but it moves under its own power and I got up to 40 mph. Left in the drive way for some pics.
  12. 1 point
    Scold? I just wrote a scathing reply but did not send it. But yes I'll scold. The 1941 Buick Limited is not only the pinnacle of Buick production....and I'd go so far as to say before or after the War. But, it is a Full Classic and recognized as such by the Classic Car Club of America. There are very few models of Buick that currently hold that title, and the Series 80 and 90 are the only ones at this time. It is not just said to be rare, it is actually very rare. If somebody wants to modify, why don't they pick some more plentiful car, not destroy a rare Full Classic. They don't make them anymore folks! I can't even find a driver quality 1941 Buick Limited to buy at anything near a reasonable price. Just don't do it. Please. Don't say to me, "well you restore it then." I'm too old. But I did one once, back in 1975 and won an AACA Senior with it. I've regretted selling that car to pay for a house many times over since that day.
  13. 1 point
    Yes, my idea is restore the two Supers.Both of them run,but the white one the floor is really bad and I will need a lot of time to restore it The one I'm working now it's in very good shape. Today I put the starter back and the car idle for about 10 minutes,..... very happy!! First time in three years......tomorrow I will put the gas tank back, it's cleaned and painted, replace the ignition parts(tuneup)and rebuild the fuel lines to connect it to the rebuild fuel pump and I hope the car will be running next week!! Also I need to replace the engine and transmission mounts, replace oil and transmission gasket pans( I will clean both pump filters at the same time). I'm very happy with the progress.....this was my first car in USA......Daniel.
  14. 1 point
    Don't mean to scare you Jens, but a few years ago my diff. started with a "singing" noise when coming off the gas also. Turned out to be a very expensive song !
  15. 1 point
    I'm glad to see my comments are read, even singled out. I wrote to experience the car for 20 or 30 years.. How long have the forum members owned their cars? I'm in my 38th year with one and my 16th with another. Even a year or two of doing the things that will be needed whichever way the car goes is not unrealistic or ridiculous. If fact it is pretty smart to schmooze up to that big ark before that long relationship with "My Mechanic" starts. My grocery money comes from a place other than cars and the long haul (I just looked in the refrigerator so I must be doing something right), the long haul, to the observant, is a balance between concept and details in all endeavors. Conceptually, to me, that car is raised on an orthographic axis in my mind and every layer of detail is apparent from experience. It is a big 1941 Buick limo with systems that overlap a decade and a half in either direction, a complicated car to a 1930 trained mechanic and relatively common maintenance for the mid-'50's guy.. But the concepts and details are married and inherent to the car. In post #25, above, Bright headlights, AC, modern stereos, and 12 volts are sure conceptually Silverado crewcab to me. They aren't 1940's Buick. Yes, graft the front clip on a Silverado was my comment, as well, two for two! The original question shows a disconnect between concept and detail merely in asking if there is a kit. One might be taken by the concept of orbiting the planet in a rocket and unconcerned with characteristics of certain O-ring materials under varying weather. Sound extreme? That Buick could suffer an end of life experience. Anyone who has paid an electric bill would be shocked to think of generating electric at $1200 per KW. I saw it. Details put the boss to sleep. So what is this '41 Buick? Conceptually it appears to be for accepted participation with a select peer group with a retro look and all the modern amenities. That's a whole different concept than what is sitting there today. The $80,000 + to "My Mechanic" ain't gonna sit well in the end. Better to look for a good deal on a $20,000 car in the fall when someone doesn't want to store their car. Or send me a PM. I'll sell you one of my cars.... oh, hell, the humor in that will get missed.
  16. 1 point
    If you're looking for a local cruise-in for Saturday evening, Mopar Madness is having a cruise night in Trexlertown, PA in front of Hobby Lobby, 7150 Hamilton Blvd. Trexlertown, 5:00 PM-8:00 PM. It gets crowded so come early. Lots of eateries and shopping there too.
  17. 1 point
    Let's take this one point at a time. He removed the intake and spent several hours, looking in each port for the offending Allen key. Nothing was found. Next point. Is he sure that he dropped the key into the manifold? Evidently, he is sure that he did. Next, can an Allen key pass through an intake port and valve? Unlikely, given the shape of the tool and the geometry around the port/valve area and the amount of valve lift. Moving on, if the key did, somehow, make it's way into the combustion chamber, would this be a benign occurrence? Almost without question, very bad things would happen. It would punch a hole in the piston crown, the busted and bent remains would hammer the entire area until it looked like the surface of the moon and, probably, bend or break the exhaust valve as the wadded up key finally decided to get the hell out of there. Helen Keller would have heard the engine trying to destroy itself..So, dumb question to an idiot alert. Did he look inside of the intake manifold for the key?? I would assume that he did, but we all know about assume. BTW, I don't know why all of that edhd58 stuff is showing up, but disregard
  18. 1 point
    Meguiar's PlastX will bring out the shine when used with a slow speed buffer. Double sided tape would have been a better choice for installing the letters.. They are getting hard to find. You want to use yours in a different taillight someday.
  19. 1 point
    Thank you for the replies. Based on the estimated value, I think he did well on the labor for the swap. I think he would be further ahead selling as is rather than putting a bunch of time and cost into it to try to turn a higher profit. Hopefully I can get him to list it in the forum. Scott
  20. 1 point
    I used to be a paint salesman as well as a paint sundry representative so I have some experience in this. There are a number of brands that you could try. I recommend a solvent based gloss spar varnish which is what I used. I had the Flecto brand in the house so I just grabbed it. The Flecto Verathane Spar varnish is correct. However Flecto is now owned by Rust oleum. I went to their website and saw that they only offer a semi gloss. I did look at Minwax's website and saw they make a spar varnish under the "Helmsman" name. It comes in different sheens in both water based and solvent based. I used the solvent based as I believe it has a more amber look which in my opinion is more desireable. I also think the amber will keep the finish looking better longer. For reference I did the Red just over a year ago. I only applied one coat and it still looks great. Remember that you don't have to take the light apart and that you only have to scuff sand. I used 1000 grit followed by 2000 grit wet/dry paper followed by a wipe down with Paint thinner which I allowed to "flash off" about 5 minutes and applied the varnish with a foam brush. I wasn't worried about the paint thinner being dried off or not as the varnish is solvent based and works with the varnish. When I did the Red I didn't even take the taillight off the car. However because I did the varnishing in the driveway I did get some airborne dust in the film because of the longer set up time of the varnish which is why this time I took it off and finished it inside.
  21. 1 point
    My head is swimming with stuff I wish I understood. Get the two Kens together and start K&K Nailhead pros.
  22. 1 point
    The OP isn't looking for advice. He is looking for confirmation of his belief that the engine simply ate that hardened Allen wrench and will cause no further harm. We all know the only sensible course of action is a tear down of the engine. It's up to him to take our advice or not
  23. 1 point
    Unless there is a problem with the antenna, he'll get better reception with that vintage tube radio than any modern AM radio.
  24. 1 point
    These are some of the Miller factory service tools I have and use...factory tools are a must as I work on a ton of 30/40's and 50's Mopars.
  25. 1 point
    Hey, I'm a big boy. Over the years I've heard and given much criticism, get over it. If you live long enough in this game, you will too. And before any of you think my post was a little too direct, RE-READ THE OP's THREAD TITLE! hammer280, No attitude intended. Like I said, I've seen this type of thing many times, it happens to novices and top flight techs. My concern was more about some of the advice you were getting. Of course everyone is entitled to their opinion. Even me. I have been inside a couple thousand engines over my career. More than most here so, while there are qualified opinions here, I believe my is certainly qualified. C'mon guys, it's the car world. It ain't PC and it ain't always what you want it to be.
  26. 1 point
    Ed, I was luke warm on heading down to the Orlando Area to look at the Seagrave, but since you show an interest ... THE MISSION IS ON! I'll keep you in the loop and let you know what I find. If I'm able to acquire it, there will be no trouble for me to keep the engine until November. There will be no profit involved except you might owe me the purchase price ... plus a beer. Cheers, Grog
  27. 1 point
    Before you assume you are the ONLY qualified person to answer.....the first person that replied was an ASE mechanic for decades. And you are totally wrong that an object cannot pass a valve and seat without ruining either. I have seen it. And if you "rebuilt" so many engines, surely you must have seen at least one piston in your long career, that had old battle damage from ingesting an object. To end that debate we need to hear from a life long engine machinist...they will surely confirm seeing old damage on piston tops, on engines that still ran fine.
  28. 1 point
    Years ago, my brother was drilling new holes in the hood of a Jenson-Healy to install an original hood emblem and broke the drill bit. A few months later it showed up in the top of the piston.
  29. 1 point
    One can only hope and pray that it's still in the intake, perhaps wedged in place... First, remove intake and check it. If it's there, make a contribution to the religious institution of your choice! :-) If it's not in the intake, then use the borescope. Don't run the engine in the meantime.
  30. 1 point
    My problem, was not the issue of gas quality, but the issue of evaporation of the vodka that's put in. I did a loooooooooooong thread about this and a 1933 Marvel carburetor design, WHICH may be a lot of the problem. ( low speed jets) I grew up with Ethyl or Regular. Who used Ethyl, the rich people I guess, I'd work for 4 gallons of gas to keep my 1953 Pontiac Chiefton Deluxe running. If not, couldn't pick up the girlfriend which was critical. I just fill em and drive em.
  31. 1 point
    Gorgeous car. I will definitely be taking some notes from your restoration experience. I am only in the infancy of my own right now. Can't wait to get where you are with your Buick. Be blessed.
  32. 1 point
    Hope this deal works out well for both of you. Deals like this are a nice flash back to how the hobby was in the 1960's. Bob
  33. 1 point
    Two completely different transmissions from the '22 and the'30 In the early DB trans the cluster does not rotate in top gear and because that is stationary it is why you get clashing or crunching (Aussie Terminology) on the down shift In the '30 trans the cluster rotates all the time There seems to be some confusion in regards to the lube that is used Early DBs with the pre S A E gear shift pattern use the very heavy oil I have put 85/140 in the trans of my Senior and that was done just to give the gears a coat of lube When I get closer with the completion of the restoration I will replace all the oils with correct ones
  34. 1 point
    On page 1 of the article you see the front in full. The car restored by Carini and owned by Levinson has a number plate with 368 P9C (Ohio Hamilton) Maybe that helps. They do not mention the VIN in the article. The other movie car was purchsed by Dustin Hoffman but sold a few years ago.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Proceed I did. Slightly. NOT over the long weekend, though. Tuesday morning I took a copy of the cam card to the machine shop so they can finish the head. Came home and proceeded to drill holes in the block. Kinda sorta. I decided a long time ago to modify the oil system into a full flow filtering system. So, therefore, drill some holes!! Pictures later. Now ,if I can get myself organized, on to assembly. Head should be completed this week, Hopefully the rotating assembly will be balanced as well. Then throw it together!! Ben
  37. 1 point
    Greetings! There are plenty of old posts on this topic if you can figure out how to search. I went with Ed Raner's recommendation: Hankook 225/75/15 for about $100 each. I can't complain.
  38. 1 point
    Alemite still makes this type of fitting so they are not rare or hard to find. The fittings from the open box are 1/16 NPT which are not used much anymore but are still available. I believe that even the new fittings are plated and are a bit shinier than the older ones but they all turn gray after awhile. Some are now plated in yellow zinc. You can still buy the original pin type fittings as well. They might sell for a couple of bucks a box.
  39. 1 point
    Very common grease fittings use right up until manufacturers started using permanently lubricated bearings. These appear to be plated; maybe for marine use? They may be of more value to someone restoring an old garage needing some parts inventory for display.
  40. 1 point
    Actually the rate has gone up. I got $175 a day recently for a movie. I drove it in costume and got paid minimum scale of $51, so the car is worth more than I am.
  41. 1 point
    About two years and 2000/3000 hours. Did 4 and I'm sick of it..............Bob
  42. 1 point
    I disagree that anyone was scolding him. I don't care what he does with his car, but he's got a big project ahead of him, he hasn't even driven the car, and I'm guessing that someone put a bug in his ear that the modifications he describes are mandatory to be able to drive any old car. I think that's a mistake and I think that's largely what's feeding the "resto-mod" trend--guys who know nothing about old cars being told what to do by shops with experience doing it only one way: Chevy crate motor and 12-volt wiring. I also think that if you're starting a project you should set goals before you start working. If he wants to build a modified car and put modern components in, great! That's where he should start and make a plan. But if he's going to keep it largely stock, then I think it's a needless waste of time, money, and resources to try to change major systems that don't need changing. I can't tell you how many cobbled-up cars that are otherwise pretty nice but have completely buggered electrical systems because some backwoods mechanic figured that 6 volts just wouldn't work in today's 12-volt world. Everyone gets it in their heads that old brakes don't work, so they need modern brakes, and to get modern brakes they cut off the frame and weld on a Nova clip and pretend that's an upgrade, never mind that the Nova's brakes were never designed for a 5500 pound limousine, but the 1941 Buick brakes were. I'll tell you right now that my Limited will lock up all four tires just as easily as any modern car with 4-wheel discs (sans ABS, of course) and if you're driving it hard enough for brake fade to be an issue, then you're going to have to install some pretty huge discs to handle it, along with suspension upgrades and a lot more motor. The stock brakes are more than even that giant car needs, even in today's world. I haven't found their limits and I drive the car daily, on the highway and up and down hills. In that car, brakes are the least of my worries. So nobody is looking down on him or scolding him, we're helping to guide a rookie who might be getting bad advice from other quarters. I remember my very first bright idea when I bought my '41 Century was, hey, a 12-volt upgrade seems smart--my dad was always having trouble with those 6-volt batteries on his old cars. Someone wise talked me out of it and I've since learned that the batteries aren't the problem. I'm glad of that, because not only is wiring a thankless job, it's easy to get it wrong and create untraceable gremlins that may never get fixed, and we all know how that kills a project faster than just about anything. I hope the original poster comes back and asks more questions. I hope he gets the car running and driving, however that works for him. I don't care if it's stock or if it has a blower hanging out of the hood (which would actually be pretty cool), I just care that he does it with his eyes wide open instead of listening to people that say old stuff is bad just because it's old.
  43. 1 point
    6 1/2 years so far Note how the thread is title, how long have YOU been restoring your car. To clarify, my father and I have been restoring my car for 6 1/2 years. The only labor we have paid for is to have the engine rebuilt and the cylinder head resurfaced.
  44. 1 point
    Here is a picture of how she sits now AJ with the chrome being original and all I did was clean it up and put it on the grill. The black you see is an epoxy primer the previous owner put on it.
  45. 1 point
    Most dynaflows will clunk more going into reverse. There are high and low accumulators which cushion the engagement into D and L.
  46. 1 point
    CAM IS HERE!!! To late for any work or pictures. The Lifters are all dis assembled. I guess that will be an hour or two! Probably not much will get done this weekend. Honey doo , you know. Ben
  47. 1 point
    Ya, 140 for a single speed. I know a guy out east that has an early Dual Ratio he would like to sell. It makes a huge difference in the drive-ability of the car.
  48. 1 point
    Been working on a few projects but this is the current update. Turbo down pipe. Waldrons did a exhaust system for me. I was not happy with the flanges they made and I was able to get a correct flange from Jensen racing. Waldrons was able to install it on the pipe they made. Came out great and they are a pleasure to work with!! Interior and rugs Installed the rugs, console and interior. More to go but starting to shape up. My son has been under the dash trying to get the lights, wiper and electrical systems working. A few photos below of progress.
  49. 1 point
    Awesome, thanks! I just rebuilt my box and picked up 2 bottles of the Penrite.
  50. 1 point
    I don't look in here very often. I have owned a number of Dodge 4's but I prefer the later 1927-8 engines. The improved crankshaft makes them much smoother and safer at higher revs. There are lots of little tricks to improve the output of these engines. While the gearboxes are slow to change down you really only need to change out of top if you hit a wall. The last "Flying Four" was good for 70-75 mph and with a lot less weight to pull up the two wheel brakes were almost adequate.